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YOUR RESEARCHType 200 brake fluid
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Run on track days
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I donated a couple for a raffle at a BMW event and I'm guessing I've used 5 cans on my own cars.
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I'm far from being an expert but have used ATE 200 in my 09 Boxster PDK w/Sport/Sport+ with Hawk DCT60 pads and had no heat issues for three years of DEs.
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Good stuff, economical, It was even better when it came in Blue color to see changes applied, Thanks to DOT rule enforcement.
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I believe 2% is the must change percentage on my cheap tester.
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Newer plastics are said to have better moisture barriers to keep water from getting to the brake fluid, but I trust metal cans more, and I have no idea who uses what plastic in their bottles, and who uses the "best plastic bottle"..
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I'm far from being an expert but have used ATE 200 in my 09 Boxster PDK w/Sport/Sport+ with Hawk DCT60 pads and had no heat issues for three years of DEs.
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Hi,
New to the forum. Just wanted to get everyone's opinion. Is Type 200 brake fluid any good for track days? If not, what do you recommend and why?
Thanks,
Jon
See the many brake fluid threads in Racers and Drivers Ed Forum under Performance and Competition Area. I'm far from being an expert but have used ATE 200 in my 09 Boxster PDK w/Sport/Sport+ with Hawk DCT60 pads and had no heat issues for three years of DEs. Changed it every six months. ATE 200 has one of the lowest dry and wet boiling points among the racing brake fluids but the price is right. Castrol SRF is one of the popular brands with higher temperatures and a much higher price. There are many variables that attribute to boiling brake fluid but you do not want that experience. For many the higher price is worth the peace of mind. If you pay to have it flushed labor is still the most expensive part. If you track frequently buying a good pressure bleeder and DIY makes the price of the fluid less of an issue. Search the Racers and Drivers Ed forum for brake fluid and also the internet. See if you can find someone who drivers the same or similar car and whether boiling the brake fluid has been an issue.
Good stuff, economical, It was even better when it came in Blue color to see changes applied, Thanks to DOT rule enforcement. No More.
f you track, adding some GT3 Brake scoops will help as well. cheap add on but very effective
I've been running ATE200 for the last couple of years on the recommendation of a local track specialist. I've had zero issues. I think it largely depends on the track, and at what level you drive. If a experienced racer, stick with 660V or SRF.
I stocked up but now I'm wondering about shelf life. Opinions seem to be all over the place, with the consensus being that Ate fluid in the metal can has a longer shelf life than a plastic container. I'll probably use the remaining cans in the the boring cars.
As I recall, they're sealed containers. You don't need to worry about water absorption, which (as I understand it) is the reason open containers of brake fluid have poor shelf life.
I also miss the super blue, since it gave a positive visual indication that you had flushed the system when alternated with the ATE gold. That's all I ever used in my rally and track cars "back in the day".
Type 200, but same can design, as I recall:
If you care to part with any # of ATE Blue , for safety of corrosion I'd be first in line.
I bought a set of Stainless lines in the fall and would love to see that in the reservoir.
Mike
Castrol SRF. No question. Best available w/ highest wet boiling point. Dry boiling point does not matter it's the wet one that you care about. It's correspondingly expensive but having boiled a couple of lesser "performance" brake fluids on the track I think SRF is worth every penny.
ATE 200 is what comes in the Genuine Porsche cans ( but less expensive), Same can same specs. It's good stuff, but there are better brake fluids (more expensive).
The metal can does keep the fluid dryer than plastic bottles. Plastic bottles can allow moisture to permeate into the brake fluid, decreasing it's shelf life. Newer plastics are said to have better moisture barriers to keep water from getting to the brake fluid, but I trust metal cans more, and I have no idea who uses what plastic in their bottles, and who uses the "best plastic bottle"..
Water/moisture is what kills brake fluid more than anything.
Many threads and articles point out for those racers and others that change their brake fluid often, the dry boiling point is what matters. The wet boiling point is measured at 3.7% moisture content. That is some really old or contaminated brake fluid. I believe 2% is the must change percentage on my cheap tester. I do agree that if you have boiled your brake fluid moving to SRF would be worth every penny, however the factors that are generating that much heat need to be examined. My son invested in a laser temp gun to measure his rotor temps after boiling his fluid.
Mike, I'll check but I think I only have a few cans left. I donated a couple for a raffle at a BMW event and I'm guessing I've used 5 cans on my own cars.
Easy solution: use the ATE 200, if you notice fade (due to fluid, not pads), you can switch up to SRF. Note that more experienced drivers use their brakes much less than novices, so should consider experience level of driver and the specific track being driven. I’ve replaced brake fluid easily during lunch break during a race day. BTW, the blue stuff sucks, ask any tech!
Using ATE 200 with racing pad for DE events no issues. Have run it at Sebring and Homestead in the middle of the summer with zero brake fade.
Just for reference, before switching to ATE 200, I did a DE event at Homestead and after a 15 mins session started to have brake fade.
