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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTrailering the 996
Leading reported evidence
Use "through the wheel" method
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Personally, I use the "through the wheel" method to allow the car to move on its own suspension.
Leading evidence: 'Use "through the wheel" method' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'are not intended' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace hitch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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the hooks that I use are similar to the autometric ones and work fine.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The tow hooks are used for winches or tow trucks to move the car not to secure a vehicle for towing on a trailer.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
The tow hooks go into your bumpers which are mounted to the chassis via those low speed impact bumper shock absorbers which I suspect are not intended to be pulled on for a long period of time.
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Suggestion
If you haven't trailered your car before it's very helpful to hook up with someone that has to help you get the weight set right and to tell you about load levers etc.
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are not intended
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
The tow hooks go into your bumpers which are mounted to the chassis via those low speed impact bumper shock absorbers which I suspect are not intended to be pulled on for a long period of time.
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T031046Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Got an 18' open deck Bri-Mar for trailering. Dealer sold me four 10k straps to tie it down. Looking for advice on where to set the straps on the car. I know you should cross them. The dealer said to go around the whishbones but not too happy about that. The car is a stock 2003 996. Thanks.
I use straps through the rims as low as possible and allow the suspension on the car to do its thing unencumbered. I use straps with a sewn loop at one end. The other end (flat) is fed through the rim, fed through the loop and then fed into the ratchet. Works like a charm and it's easy. Straps are from M&R from Vineland NJ.
It works going up to Tremblant on bombed out Quebec roads from Hell. (200km)
Be VERY careful! Your owners manual tells how to do it. If the wheels will not allow you to go through them then go and buy a set of the lug nut tie down hooks.
How do I know this. My 02 came delivered by a guy that went over the rear trailing arms to get to the rear sub frame
Broke both rear trailing arms
Cost him $350 including an alignment.
buy a set of trailer hooks - they are eye bolts that attach to the frame of the car in the front and rear. it makes it easy to attach the straps to the car and your not playing around with going through the rims.
As for the straps themselves, there are many different schools of thought. On my maiden trailering voyage (last week) I crossed both the front and back straps and didn't have any problems. Some say to cross only one but it doesn't matter which one.
Either way, you should leave the car in NEUTRAL (don't want to mess up the trans) and set the e brake (as long as the rotors have cooled) and you should be fine. One other point, make sure that you get the car as far forward as possible to add tongue weight since most of the weight of the car is in the rear. This will help with swaying.
You may also want to get anti-sway and load distribution attachments to your trailer. This also changes the hitch that you you, however. It does help.
Steve
2003 996
Definitely install a set of Autometrics tie down hooks:
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...%20Suspension:
$79 for front and rear.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...96tiedowns.jpg
I only use tire straps in emergencies; otherwise chassis tie down hooks.
No! You need to load the weight properly. Getting the car TOO FAR forward could actually be more harmful since you will have to high a tongue load and (1) stress your hitch system and more importantly (2) have a loss of traction on the front wheels of your tow vehichle.
The best thing is to get a tongue scale and put your car in it till you find the PERFECT spot for the car to be located and then mark that spot. Guess what? MY perfect spot in my Pace Enclosed 20' car trailer is NOWHERE close to the front. Weight load distribution over the axles is VERY IMPORTANT!
Guess what? MY perfect spot in my Pace Enclosed 20' car trailer is NOWHERE close to the front. Weight load distribution over the axles is VERY IMPORTANT!
Correct. The spot in my Pace 25' is far back also.
I'd second the use of the Autometric loops. I've been using them on my race car for awhile and they work great. Regarding crossing vs straight straps, you really can't cross the front straps with the Autometric loops. They will bend if not pulled straight forward. It works fine to cross them in back though. Also the front's hang down a bit so expect to ding them if your car is lowered. Not a big issue though. They are pretty tough.
If you haven't trailered your car before it's very helpful to hook up with someone that has to help you get the weight set right and to tell you about load levers etc.
Jim
OK I'll ask. Which is the better way to tie down a car on a trailer? Through the wheels and allow the car's suspension do it's thing, or use frame mounted tie down points? I have used the wheels for securing the car to my trailer, but I like the idea of the tie down points as I think it would be a little easier to use.
Personally, I use the "through the wheel" method to allow the car to move on its own suspension. If I didn't use that method I would use the lugnut tie down method. Preventing the car from moving on its own suspension is asking for trouble.
oh also, where can you get there "lug nut tie down hooks"? ^
and this
"buy a set of trailer hooks - they are eye bolts that attach to the frame of the car in the front and rear. it makes it easy to attach the straps to the car and your not playing around with going through the rims"
sounds like just screwing the front and rear tow hooks in and using those (which isn't that bad of an idea in some cases)
penguin, your idea of "buy a set of trailer hooks" being the same as using the front and rear tow hooks cannot be further from the truth. The tow hooks are used for winches or tow trucks to move the car not to secure a vehicle for towing on a trailer.
the hooks that I use are similar to the autometric ones and work fine. They are easy to use and not too hard to reach under the car. I'd recommend them.
Steve
gotcha - didn't know what you were referring to. thanks.
on the other hand, i have seen people tie down their cars from the front/rear tow hooks. not 996's, but other cars. why would it be a bad idea? (curious)
Penguin,
The tow hooks go into your bumpers which are mounted to the chassis via those low speed impact bumper shock absorbers which I suspect are not intended to be pulled on for a long period of time. I don't know that but that's why I don't use them for tie downs. You also don't want to hook to just two spots both for stability and is case one fails.
Dell,
I seldom disagree with you but this time I do. I think strapping through the wheels is fine but I would prefer the chassis. I don't want the car bouncing around while the wheels are being held in place. Both for the stresses it puts on the suspension/alignment and because I don't want weight moving around in the trailer. Having said that, I strapped through the wheels for years before switching and never really had a problem. I wouldn't cross strap if going through the wheels though.
Jim
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