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YOUR RESEARCH1999 996 c2 owner thread better late than never
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Clean injectors through
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Cleaned the injectors through and replaced the seals made a little adapter to blast the cleaner in whilst connected to the battery charger
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Suggestion · Original poster
I’ve decided to pull the engine and fix the oil leak between the box and engine ims seal or rml ?I’ll check the bearing whilst I’m there and change the aos and oil cooler as well as a few other bits
Leading evidence: 'Clean injectors through' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bearing whilst i’m there' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
just need to repair the enlarged holes in the heat shield which was creating an annoying rattle, the wheel arches are mint I’m very impressed here’s a before its cleaned pic of it.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
A few parts cleaned ready to go back on, the roll bar got a new coat of paint
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Mine had a new OE Match AOS fitted 3yrs ago by the PO but I replaced it with a Porsche one as I don't trust that OE Match stuff...apparently the oil level sensors are really bad and fail within 2 weeks of engine going back in usually...
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Check bearing whilst i’m there
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Suggestion · Original poster
I’ve decided to pull the engine and fix the oil leak between the box and engine ims seal or rml ?I’ll check the bearing whilst I’m there and change the aos and oil cooler as well as a few other bits
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911uk: 1 discussions
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so after owning the car for 8 years and being inspired by Interference fit i have decided to start a thread on the car, and so it begins i shall be taking on the task of detailing the underneath and under the wheel arches etc renewing a few parts on the way she has been garaged all her life and has no body rust anywhere and had all coffin arms top mounts and bushes replace not long ago so i'm hoping it will be a joy to work on
I'm doing the same and slightly ahead of you. I posted my photos on interference fit a couple of days ago if you want to see them. Today i stripped the black bracket holding the heat shield to the ali crash bar and now ready to paint later this week. Interference fit also did his earlier this year so i bet yours will need treating ? Being retired and having time / room in the garage with Quick Lift ramps and music on, i spend a few hrs each day cleaning etc. After cleaning with Race Glaze and steam cleaning, i started her up yesterday only to find my ABS / PSM lights on the dash. So reckon i've had a short in the circuit or steam / moisture into the wires - hopefully. Only did the offside rear hub steam cleaning so hopefully i can narrow it down to that corner. Enjoy the process and Interference Fit has certainly influenced a lot of us.
@Interference Fit
- now look what you have started...
I even found myself cleaning and painting bits of the underside of my car as I put her back together these past weekends.
Ok so I’ve took the exhaust off now as a few years back I bodged the flexi part on the dansk silencer’s for mot see pic so I’ve ordered some new weld in replacements to repair it. The cats are off to the blaster to be prepared for some por 15 coating with the rear heat shield brackets.
Next up was to see how the manifolds was getting on it’s also aftermarket fitted just before I bought the car the bolts looked great so I thought I’d try and loosen one. And with utter pleasure they came out which slowed progress slightly as I got a bit giddy about it and had to calm down just shows after the 8 years it’s been on the copper grease has worked and is still visible
I’ve been collecting parts over the years as I look at car parts on eBay as a pass time and buy things I don’t need
but now the time has come to use some of them with the exhaust off it would be rude not to fit a new water pump and a few new hoses I’ve had on the shelf and change the coolent
Forgive me if you know this already, but POR15 is very preperation sensitive and I've had mixed results. Whilst it may seem unnecessary on freshly blasted surfaces, I'd strongly advise the use of their 'Metal Ready' to ensure good adhesion.
It's fine to brush on with large items and will not leave any kind of film thickness. It's a zinc phosphate solution and is designed to work with POR15 so I'd not recommend using anything else. Gloves are the only really PPE I'd consider. I wouldn't drink it, but it's not majorly toxic.
New water pump and hoses fitted all looks very clean inside the coolent was almost too good to replace but it’s getting new stuff, any recommendations on what brand of coolent to use ?
Next up is addressing this oil leak it looks like it’s coming from the solenoid gasket luckily I have one in my stash but more investigation and cleaning up is needed first
Did you take off the pipe shown in the last photo (coolant in the bucket) to drain the system. If so are you tightening back up with jubilee clips or using the Porsche spring clips. Which are the best clips to use ?
No i used the drain plug under the engine to drain the system it's a small allen key. I just put the bucket under to catch any water whilst i changed the hose i have put back the original Porsche spring clips i prefer them rather than jubilee clips.
Well I replaced all the rear coolant hoses on mine and bought a load of full Stainless Jubilees , however 2 or 3 of them started to drip and no amount of tightening would stop it.
The thing is , the spring clips provide a full 360' of pressure on the hose , clamping it perfectly all the way around. Jubilee clips are very good but in certain circumstances and I think it's on the bigger hoses , the worm drive area is too flat and it just doesn't quite work so well.
Luckily I kept all my spring clips as they're quite expensive so they're all going back on.
That oil leak you photo'd might be the AOS bellows. Might not be but it looks like it's coming from there.
If it's a pattern part, the AOS body is identical but the bellows on those goes hard very quickly (3yrs). I have a 12yr old Porsche one in my collection of stuff and it's still very supple.
For that reason I felt the internals are probably not so good in the pattern part so I've fitted a new Porsche AOS.
The only other thing I'd STRONGLY suggest with POR15 is to wear gloves. There is no solvent that will get it off your hands if it dries - Acetone, celly thinners, xylene - didn't even dirty the rag. Your hands will have black stains on them until your skin sheds or you sand it off.
Just checking, given you're intending to paint this on the cats, are you intending on using the High Temp version?
The maximum temperature standard POR15 is rated to is 232 deg C. The typical working rage of an average cat is significantly more than this.
Yes i was intending to use the high temp version but i've not pulled the trigger yet, i still could use something more user friendly if there is anything else suitable do you know of any other product that i could consider?
Mass tidy up earlier so I can get around the car easy now with plenty of room to work, the Lambo has had to move out to the summer house lord knows what mrs Hooner will think when she sees it
The oil leak mentioned earlier looked to be coming from the pipe connected to this breather I also removed the engine mounts to see how they have fared after being filled with black silicone rubber stuff I think it helps them but without the harsh ness of solid mounts I suspect it will help them lad a bit longer too I’m quite pleased with them.
Honestly, I'd have them ceramic coated and be done with it. Not sure if you saw my other thread, but I had my headers and cats done recently and I'm delighted with the results.
Slight update the new bits for the silencers came to replace the tin foil stuff dansk made them with so I’ve repaired them now other than the flexi part they are in excellent condition .
Right let the cleaning begin I’ve removed the heat shields and all the fasteners came off without any casualties
just need to repair the enlarged holes in the heat shield which was creating an annoying rattle, the wheel arches are mint I’m very impressed here’s a before its cleaned pic of it.
New bracket fitted for the cats and I’m now a member of the shiny engine carrier society
new coolent has arrived but I’m going to flush the system first before I refill
Looks like I’ve dodged a bullet looking at the state of these guide rails on first inspection they looked ok but after removing the chain they are totally goosed, new pads and chains have been ordered the miles on these is 120k
no but the car ran like a dream, i think even if it's in the limit the pads will be worn at this mileage i figured why wait for them to fail i'll just have a look.
Oh no ..that means I’ll have to check mine now. Was going to leave it as it had engine work 10k miles ago but the invoice I found had no indication they were done
Well I looked through the history of mine and just before I got the car GT one had just billed the previous owner £720 quid and changed the solenoid but left the pads
A rabbit hole has opened up in my garage
I’ve decided to pull the engine and fix the oil leak between the box and engine ims seal or rml ?I’ll check the bearing whilst I’m there and change the aos and oil cooler as well as a few other bits
I’ve cleaned up the mess of oil and took the cover off the ims and the bearing feels silky smooth but with a tiny bit of play not up or down or side to side basically nothing really. so I removed the seal and nice clean oil came out I have another double row bearing here unused but it feels the same so I’m thinking it’s normal and not worth changing it what d’ya think?
If it's a double row bearing then I dont believe they ever have a problem. Use a new seal for the cover and thread seal the three bolts and you should be good. Others will correct me if I am off piste.
I'd leave it too. I'm not doing mine for the same reason, dual row and it's all dry in there. I may change it in a year or two when I get the gearbox rebuilt.
Both banks have had new cam pads and chains now and a new rms I’ve got some more goodies for it before the engine goes back in new cam sensor new crank sensor new AOS and now oil cooler plus seals
I have replaced the rear brake line the one that goes over the gearbox whilst the engine is out with some cunifer pipe, pictures not great but I’ll post it anyway also cleaned up the connection from the battery here it is before hand when I opened the box a load of green stuff fell out of it I’d definitely say this could be a slow start issue although mine was fine
I’ve pulled the ims bearing out now with a home made puller which went rather well it’s made from a concrete anchor bolt and an old gear sprocket from a RM Suzuki 125 total cost £1.98 I hope the new one goes in as easy
Nice work with the puller.
Curious what youre doing about getting it back in? I’ve seen a few mentions of not hitting it back in, causing potential damage ? Don’t shoot me I haven’t researched this job at all yet ..
It is a pretty brutal method of insertion that's for sure. Bearing in the freezer for a couple of days and warm up the IMS gently.
Good idea fitting the NSK and pulling the seals . Nothing wrong at all with the dual row.
I think i might remove the oil pump housing and place something very solid behind the other end of the ims shaft to hit against [not sure yet as i dont want to damage it] but i have seen a guy on you tube put one in right from the freezer and it went in ok without to much heavy clubbing. No damage to anything yet and i can see down to the chain guides due to removing the cam covers so it should be fine. Fingers crossed.
I imagine plenty have had them hammered in by now and still running
No way of pressing it in somehow ?
chain guides are plastic aren’t they if you’re adding any heat ..
Not thought of that maybe there is with some kind of giant G clamp or similar could knock something up out of box section maybe i'll look into that idea/ the chain guides are kinda further away from the hole so a bit of heat should be ok.
This is what I’m fitting back in it’s a highly improved centre pin without the o ring groove this paired with a new double row will be grand, picture 2 shows old vs new, a new thinner o ring will fit at the end now on a shoulder that does not narrow. The flange fits over it beautifully.
Ok new bearing went in no bother the key to not bashing ten bells out of it is to use a cable tie to act like a piston ring compressor to hold the retaining spring in place whilst tapping the bearing in. Engine now all timed up and turning over no damage to any guides
On coming to refit the injectors after fitting new o rings and filters on them I have noticed that the wires near the connectors are quite brittle so I think I’ll replace them with these it must be a common problem as they come with a length of wire slightly longer than the effected area to solder in
Are both sensors easy to get out or do they "glue themselves in" like the ABS sensors on the wheel hub ?
with regard to the AOS, I wish i was more assertive in getting the garage to change the AOS when my engine was out in Oct 2024. They said mine was Ok and a waste of money to change it but for a clear head, i should have instructed them to do it. So i'm envious of you mate.
Thanks, The sensors don't seize in, but the m6 bolt that holds the crankshaft one in tends to shear off as mine did, and Uncle Monty has just suffered the same set back on his, if this happens it's an engine out job to drill it out. The camshaft one is more or less impossible to change in the car it's hidden behind the AOS bellow.
I can confirm they do sieze in , I've spent 2 hours on it so far and it's time to drill it out but I don't want to take the flywheel off so I've got to collect the bits or blow them out.
New Bosch sensor on it's way.
Mine had a new OE Match AOS fitted 3yrs ago by the PO but I replaced it with a Porsche one as I don't trust that OE Match stuff...apparently the oil level sensors are really bad and fail within 2 weeks of engine going back in usually...
oh noo! that oil level sensor is OE match and my old one fell to bits when i removed it i should of left it alone
i fitted bosch sensors crank/cam thankfully.
As I’m now waiting for my new fuel pressure regulator and a couple of good low mileage injectors to arrive I thought I’d go through the vacuum system. I found that the 2 connecting rubber tubes between the plastic lines have totally deteriorated and are just falling apart the black on my hand is rubber dust I can only think it must have been a leak . Now replaced with new stuff
Looking good Hooner. What product are you using to clean the alloy engine casing. Is it now smooth or have a pitted effect ?
I've been using Race Glaze as an alloy cleaning spray and brushing it in but having varying results. Also doing it with the engine in the car which is a pain. Most probably take it out next winter to do it properly.
Which FPR did you go with ?
I went for a different one but still 3.8bar and still Bosch.
Thread '996 Bosch Fuel Pressure Regulator'
27 Oct 2025
As part of me trying to fix a strong smell of petrol in the engine oil on my 98 3.4 C2 I thought I should have a look at the injectors and the FPR.
I have a service kit on it's way for the injectors but I'd like to replace the 27yr old FPR for a new one .
D911 sell it as a Genuine Porsche part priced at £141.82 (Bosch)
An almost identical Bosch FPR for various Audi, VWs , Bentley etc is £21 ... the only difference is the pressure , 3 v's 3.8 bar
Fuel Pressure regulator 0280160575 Bosch Control Valve 078133534C BA9C968B New | eBay UK
AUDI A4 B6 (8E2) 2.4 Saloon Petrol 09/2001 12/2004 FWD 30 163 120. AUDI A6 C5 Avant (4B5, 4B6) 1.8 T quattro Estate Petrol 12/1997 10/2000 AWD 20 180 132. AUDI A4 B6 (8E2) 3.0 Saloon Petrol 12/2000 12/2004 FWD 30 220 162.
www.ebay.co.uk
However I've...
Uncle Monty
Replies: 7
Forum:
Porsche 911 996 (1997-2005)
Mostly smooth now
elbow grease 2 types one comes in a bottle
I've been using a big copper wire brush on the angle grinder and numerous smaller ones on the drill to get in all nooks. It's coming up like new really.
The race glaze stuff sounds good i'll check it out
I found using my Dremel and numerous sanding \ polishing pads good for smoothing and polishing out. Small enough to get into tight areas. I got them on Amazon under Dremel accessories. Some £10 for a bag of 40 assorted grit / sanding wheels.
There must be something you can then wipe over the clean alloy to protect it for furring up again. I did my gearbox and it now looks like it's been out in a blizzard..
Bit more cleaning today, I’m also quite pleased with how clean the exhaust ports are inside there’s hardly any carbon built up at all and the heads are really good condition with no pitting anywhere
I get and i'm sure you also get great pleasure when cleaning the alloy to find 996 number markings on the casings. Also the criss / cross on the casting. She's looking good mate.
I’m getting there now with it she’s nearly done if got some of this acf 50 stuff to spray all over it can go in the spray gun to give a few thin coats it stops oxidation,corrosion and repels moisture it used on airplanes so I’ll give it a go. I’m going to spray it on the underbody in the gearbox tunnel and whatnot as well
That's it - mine's coming out next Winter !
Keep us informed with photos of gearbox finished etc.
I'll check out ACF -50.
Great to know of these products. Maybe good if we have a "Thread" on specific products and what they do on here with photo's etc ?
Looking good mate
Hooner, what have you got the car up on - Quick jacks ?
What height have you got from bottom of heat shield on rear panel to floor. Be good to know minimum height needed for next year's engine removal.
It's just up on basic car ramps at the front and axle stands at the rear , I'll measure the height it's still on them at the moment. I think quick jacks might not be high enough and would get in the way of sliding under the car to lower the gearbox at the same time as the engine. It's pretty easy though i only have a small trolley jack ,a bottle jack and numerous blocks of wood. I just lowered it onto a home made trolley and wheeled it out. i'll post some pics of what i used.
The height from floor to the bumper heat shield thing is 35 inches clearance engine just fits under on my trolley. Then I use blocks to raise it and lower the car down a few pegs at a time on the axle stands. It’s a bit of a faff but it works well and feels safe.
With mine on the Quick Lift i have got 29 inches. So i'm thinking that to get the extra 6 inches, i could lift the car and place timber sleeper bocks of wood under the wheels then lower the Quick lift. Then position timber (sleeper bocks) and various depth timber under the cill length to take the quick lift and raise it again to get to 35+ inches. I then access underneath from the front as the Quick Lifts prevents side entry. Anyone else experienced my thoughts above ?
Speak for yourself Hooner
Have you started your engine yet? I'm so glad you spotted that error of mine , beer on me if we ever meet up which I hope we all do one day.
Not yet, it's getting close now I just need to put silencers on and fill all fluids Oh and i need to bleed the brakes up i fitted some new lines. yep a meet up would be great some time.
Well after fitting the following
New vario cam pads
New double row ims bearing
Rear main seal
Drive shaft output seals
New timing chains
New aos
Oil cooler
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
Two replacement injectors
Water pump and thermostat
Oil sender
Fuel pressure regulator
Couple of hoses
Rear brake pipe
Exhaust repair
She now runs and sounds sweet
Congrats on getting her back running. That's a good check list for my attention next winter. The cats look good albeit they are unseen when the rear panel goes on.
I must say when i first cracked her up she sounded dog rough, i think it's because every drop of oil had been drained and i forgot to fill the power steering res and the pump was screaming! So i filled that and tried again and she started to purr, i ran her up to temp and all fans kicked in including the engine fan. I've bled the brakes now so tomorrow i might have a test run.
Still no test drive yet , you wouldn’t believe it takes so long just to put a bumper back on
first I have to remove a snapped bolt from the bumper bar for the heat shield, took a pic for uncle monty, then the silencer shields needed a couple of new rivets and brackets needed new clips, and then a good clean
That's on my list, i'm saving my pennies now for some new ones for mine. I'm sure i read someone had sent their old ones off to bilstien to be refreshed i wonder how much that costs? i must look into that. What springs did you go for in the end?
I recall that post a few days ago regarding sending off the their old ones to Bilstein. I'll back track tomorrow to find it. I stuck with Bilstein B4 as i originally wanted to keep to standard spec. But then after a few beers pressed the button and ordered 30mm lowered H&R springs. Then had to purchase thicker compensation plates. I'll keep you updated
I can't find the post saying he was looking to refresh his Bilsteins. More i think about it, i'm sure it was only a thought he had and not got a a price.
I've been out for a spin
She runs absolutely great, tick over is perfectly still and quiet no ticking or roaming around or anything,
it feels like a few horses have been regained , very quick to pick up and she sounds fabulous now the exhaust is sorted.
I'm very pleased with it now, can't wait to go for a decent blast in some nice weather. But for now back to cleaning the underneath and i'm going to check the front brake pipes and change any that are showing signs of age.
Nothing better than a confidence boost after the work you have done. Think of all the £££ you saved doing them yourself. Plus the learning / enjoyment and frustration along the way. I hope all the above comes my way when i get her fired up after the long winter.
Enjoy it and best wishes
Thanks Roger, I'm sure yours will be fine too rolling along on them nice new shocks
I think i enjoy coming on here talking about it with like minded enthusiasts nearly as much as doing the tinkering, the feedback is well appreciated . Thanks to everyone who've commented and helped up to now.
So I’ve started a little bit of tlc on the underside of the arches and wot not. She's in superb condition really there's not much i can do only put some of the anti corrosion stuff on.
With the clips, are they for a Porsche or universal. I got mine from a local car motor factor but they are stamped BMW. As they without thread, i put them on with a driver and they fit well. Don't know if they can be removed and reused.
Tiny update, on cleaning the under trays I noticed that one of my air scoops was missing so since then I’ve been on the lookout and bingo, nos eBay bargain strikes again £4 quid
the small piece is what’s left of my old one
Thought I’d update this now as some will have seen on another thread I have changed the gearbox to a 996.2 one now and fitted a new clutch, and cylinders
