electric power steering project - Page 2 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

slowly putting the gear together: - Vauxhall astra/zafira electric PS pump c/w mounting bracket ($200; used on ebay uk): Vauxhall Astra MK5 H 2004 2010 1 3L Diesel Cdti Electric Power Steering Pump | eBay - two GSR PS rack to 6AN male fittings ($110; to convert PS rack to AN fittings): GSR Power Steering Rack Fittings - 6AN - Porsche 986, 987 Boxster, 996, 997 911 - Pending: Russell 16mmx1.5 o-ring seal to 6AN male fitting ($8; to convert electric PS pump pressure side to AN fitting): Russell 648060 Russell Power Steering Adapter Fittings - Pending: two 6AN female/female hoses ($?; depending on length). notes: - PS pump bracket can be easily bent to mount on flat surface, and comes with three rubber vibration isolation mounts between pump and bracket - if mounted on upper tray of front trunk will clear hood (mounting on upper tray will also give good access to battery and keep main trunk free for helmets) - original PS pump can be gutted to serve as dummy pulley if you have deleted AC (thanks eric) otherwise all required is a shorter belt; suncoast and bgb also sell AC delete pulleys (marketed for the 987.2, but will fit the 986 as the AC compressor part number hasn’t changed) - PS pump wiring is as follows: red - battery +12V brown - ground black - ignition +12V (i.e., only runs when key is on) blue/white - alternator dash light (to turn it off if the key is on but car not running) brown/white - not required (for diagnostics) need to confirm: - 6AN hose will fit over reservoir return spigot (presume not a big deal) - source for Bosch 4P weatherproof male electrical connector to connect to PS pump electrical connector (for clean install, otherwise i can splice the wires) - that i got the proper Russell fitting (presume metric, but could be 5/8”) - hose length and routing from PS rack to proposed mounting location - appropriate grommets to give bulkhead penetrations a finished look (got a box of them; something should work) - source for switched +12v and alternator wires (under the dash somewhere; just need some time with the wiring schematic to get a colour code) almost there; cost will be around $400 all in.

Thanks for the info, I'm getting ready to do this mod on my car and all the info on the process would be appreciated

there are those that talk and then those that do! I respect your quest and all the work you are doing Radium King. And thanks for sharing the fruits of your labour!!

Very nifty and skillful you can do this. Am subscribed to this thread.

thanks; hopefully not too much skill involved - drill a few holes, connect two hoses. i'll have the front underbody panels off the car in a week or so and can confirm hose routing/length, at which point I can order hoses and the Russell fitting (I live in the boonies so have to order stuff in batches to save on shipping). that should let me know I have the proper fitting for my pump. after that I have to find some time to test, clean and paint the pump (it's used and has spent some quality time under the hood of some diesel british people mover). then I expect a day (or two) of actual install.

Sounds good. Why did you choose this particular pump? What is the output with respect to the stocker? It's probably much more stable and will give the ps control valve less work.... but output pressure range? It would be really handy if the ps control valve was right in the frunk somewhere....are you drilling to get to it??? Perhaps it's modularized with the rack....bummer Are you removing all the ps lines from the back? Will the gutted ps pump require some fluid to keep its bearings cool and lubed while idling? Will you still have to service this fluid?

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/41937-oil-transmission-coolers.html

Ahhh you have to get right to the rack....that means big holes for the hydraulic lines! Who would have thought that a Porsche cup car pump would be a Vauxhall Astra piece...crazy! Where do you plan to grab switched power for it?

smallish holes - 6AN (AN/16 = 6/16 = 3/8"). switched power under dash - stereo, etc. ill try to get some pics up of proposed placement this weekend.

Here's a shot of the pump. You can see the opening for the pressure out, as well as the barbed return to the reservoir. You can see two of the three rubber isolation mounts on the oem bracket, and that with a bit of bending you can make the bracket mount to any surface you want. For wiring you see the main + and -, as well as the three-wire control connector. A clean and a shot with a spray bomb (black plastic paint for the reservoir and some black high temp for the motor) and its ready to go in. On another note, a quick peek of a Ruf 3600 clone coupe (zeintop):

Just finished the install and tried it this week end at an autocross event, It worked like a charm, the steering is a little tighter but the feel is better than before. I ended up running a switch instead of the alternator light because it's more practical since it is a race car. It was an easy project with all the info that I got out of this post Thanks for all the research RK

so, super necro-bump to this thread. turns out that using the trw pump is big in australia (off of holdens) with lots of aftermarket support. brackets: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155636585037?hash=item243ca9d24d:g:PXQAAOSwUDBj6Jm B&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MDwtw6vWoDd2KwdDKKNmq2iYgebP 3W4ugdwLpMzkzy%2FJinL5gzUk176XRHzbaQNy0OEwTtLmFeYq 31WjaL%2FKemW2YdSrfcrOq328TthMTInSkqN2%2Fsn0cjlBDF kBDlNr5HecpwlSxFaXNgXb1m%2BoKPMMevumJcxtIOzizI%2FD FIQ%2FExfhVWAMnU%2BVMueaFVpEvAa83Kx%2F2QqUU2f0lJNE X43cYVPyeK0xKi7UtIMTIbSxcF7GxAPjM0rgNKPctr31O3zlG4 XsJt34s8ML9xLFRBY0qYmaKwVevTu5SRKMxvTgR%2B7y4aneRb pVmolm7IUBQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8KIhcCnYg https://www.ebay.com/itm/284298166780?hash=item42317dc1fc:g:1rQAAOSwNDlhAn-J&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8A5HPfjwTrJd3ary4bEDHq88K9q4N onVbSm8zNHzCD%2FCWXYkep%2BZFHs6JNSfr0jbduAQ7upja%2 BHcxEektgc3pAYZkUPhoXRNP6QVYJ%2FIRyWbhjXPg%2BY1tTJ ZpJUlbKNJhBuTYSOp%2B7Mcdd2Guj2xwLvBlp91eRfnBOanfIx xoQ6Gr6rUi7aE4YR0XB8nJUSsGbmRmv%2FCe33vuqbo4%2B7VY %2B0pVXsWA7fjiHCwugIQROHtyRS9G626mgURjirF%2B%2Fijr Hb4n%2Fn7AVeFyAkl899sRkL6b0cNMNkoUPwtZ4p9ncePhcZYl pMjY%2FfsjM6nh7NYmQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwIiFwKdi https://www.ebay.com/itm/284371301496?hash=item4235d9b478:g:MOkAAOSwM3hg7rO H&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8ILRhFpD2fcE9wDf7zEoQtHDdWZy% 2BWT%2FbpKl03l%2BXUX%2BD7PnoJQg1C1wxXEDQlPe5qTUjrD d0NdVjE9Pc6YVrXbM5DDNOpg6gXCUPzaZ1FOUHUTLOVkiQry3F %2FWXrAq19rpnpzhg0j5XBfnq64H3MgMM5bTtTpRQ2xxi5FLKm 5sAWCHpGZzSOgNubFV27sM6qDjhp8TuG1CDJK7aDC1Hs3BhhTi YWe9DkeaoWS7FvtFL8TqqC4vLvkLML42W%2BYeIfePZLGlfv2S Wl6%2FqrL8LzC9FXgvOk%2Bl7BKzS4TO4w5M0bsbtfyewqQG2M 0VS1IF8hQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8KIhcCnYg pumps that come with the AN fitting: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175720670340 wiring info: https://www.shiftkits.com.au/documents/astra-power-steering-pump-wiring/

Mine is installed with a 60 amp power circuit breaker straight from the battery and the relay coil is connected to the windshield wiper power which is local and ignition on.

Anyone have any pics of the finished project, and specific fitting pieces? I'm intrigued, as my stock pump is overheating at the track. I am getting the underdrive pulley, but this seems like it would be even better, although more work.

buy the bracket. buy the pump with AN fitting. get the following steering rack fittings: https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/rebel-s-racing-rsr-steering-rack-fittings-for-elec-pump o-rings and fluid from local porsche dealer. then you just need to fabricate two -6AN hoses and wire it up. just search 'cup car electric steering' and whatnot for pics.

A simple solution is to install a cooling radiator at the return line of the steering rack.

for sure, but electric PC reduces parasitic load on the engine and sheds a few pounds in the process. and is a cool thing for those that like to tinker and can't leave well enough alone ...

Quotes source post: 654521

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Thanks! Is that the MR2 pump?

yes. Cap says use only Toyota fluid.

That is why I asked. I see lots of different options, Astra, MR2, Volvo, just trying to find something local, and cheapish. Not in any rush, probably a winter project.

Quotes source post: 654607

bahahahaha. my favourite quote: "What part of Porsche Racing did you think is going to be cheap -ISH , is it the the Porsche part, or is it the Racing part?"

I never thought it was going to be cheap, just trying to spend wisely. I also said 'cheapish', not expecting there to be an extremely cheap option, especially for something I don't necessarily need.

Question for those who have done the conversion, do you use fluid recommended for the pump, or the rack? I sourced a pump from a 2017 Nissan Maxima, and it says to use Nissan EPS fluid, of course the stock Boxster fluid is CHF11s.

Anyone have any insights they would care to share?

To follow up on my own question, I ended up going with a kit with the TRW pump, and I am using the stock Pentosin fluid.

here's an insight - if for a street car and you plan to locate the punp on the passenger-side shelf in the frunk, the trim panel for a RHD drive car (which has the brake booster on the other side) can be used to make the install look OEM.

oh man, that is brilliant. I designed and 3d printed one that looks ok, but yeah, a factory one would be killer. off to ebay...

I have one of those around, let me try again with this pump and reservoir (previously found I couldn't align the reservoir with the opening of the trim part).

The 3G MR2 pump is also rare and stupid overpriced these days. Ford makes one used in Mazda and Volvo cars, common, cheap, and lower in overall profile, friend of mine uses this on his raced 91 Honda Prelude. Forgive my ignorance, who makes "Vauxhaul"?

british - find 'em on ebay uk. used to be owned by gm along with opel.

I don't think the RHD cover will work, at least for where my pump is mounted. Here is V2 of the one I designed: It's not terrible, but I'd like the top to be bigger. This maxed out my printer, so I'll probably break it into smaller pieces and glue them together.