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YOUR RESEARCHBrake pipes corroded.....
Leading reported evidence
Replace hard lines
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Read evidence and context
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OPC replaced the hard lines on the rear callipers betwixt flexy and calliper on my 991, as they were beginning to show signs of corrosion.
Leading evidence: 'Replace hard lines' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check pedal travel' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I had all my lines replaced a couple of years ago after experiencing complete brake failure on a duel carriageway.
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On mine GCR Central replaced the over box pipe when they did the clutch / IMS.
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I also changed the rigid lines on the rack while the subframe wad dropped
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Suggestion
If the nipples are operational, I suspect it may be possible using a flexible pipe clamp designed for the task, to inhibit drain down of the fluid other than that which is in the short section of pipe you intend to replace.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Evening all. I took.my 996.2 for its annual mot test and it got two advisories for brake pipes. I spoke to the tester and he confirmed that these are the solid lines to flexi connectors.
A call to swindon opc resulted in the procurement on items number 5 and 6 on here.
I replaced one front line last year as a post purchase inspection told me that one had a kink in it. I got away without bleeding the brakes. I will be doing the second front line and the rears to be safe. Any advice? Will I have to bleed the brakes?
I’d absolutely use the opportunity to bleed them - how long has the current fluid been in there anyway? Maybe a chance to get the callipers off and clean them all up as well - mine did when he did those same pipes on my own car a year ago
I had all my lines replaced a couple of years ago after experiencing complete brake failure on a duel carriageway. If some are rusted my thought process was that the they will all probably need doing, really didn’t want to repeat brake failure again.
I used Lap911
Good luck.
I guess the first test would be to check you can bleed the brakes by testing to see if the bleed nipples are free.
If the nipples are operational, I suspect it may be possible using a flexible pipe clamp designed for the task, to inhibit drain down of the fluid other than that which is in the short section of pipe you intend to replace.
With the new pipe fitted, remove the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, check the brake fluid level, top up if necessary, release the clamp on the flexible hose, open one of the bleed nipples on the calliper, then release the clamp on the flexible, which should then cause brake fluid to force the air out of the new pipe section by gravity, initially just fluid should flow, followed by the air that was trapped in the new pipe which then will be followed by brake fluid and no sir, at which point lock off the bleed nipple. Now try the brake pedal travel, hopefully you have managed the pipe replacement without trapping any air in the system
Replenish the brake fluid before moving on to the second pipe replacement.
Perhaps best to replace each pipe as a separate task, checking the pedal travel, before moving on to replacing the second pipe..?
Final top up of brake fluid once both pipes are replaced and replace the reservoir cap... Job done..
Hope it works for you better than it it worked for me, I had sheared nipples to contend with.... Though once the nipple situation was resolved, the process as typed above worked fine for me..
Worth a try..?
On mine GCR Central replaced the over box pipe when they did the clutch / IMS. I changed 2 front incl the transverse one needing the subframe dropped / fuel tank supported, 1 (remaining) rear and 4 short rigid ones on the calipers. The latter required HD mole grips as the fittings were that corroded.
Its probably 7 years ago but found the dealer pipes reasonable and all the bends in exactly the right place
I also changed the rigid lines on the rack while the subframe wad dropped
I've been thinking about replacing all the lines with the rocketdog solution. Especially since my OPC said the front line that crosses the car is no longer available! Looks like a good option.
These could really work. At this time, the mot chap only picked up the flexi to hard lines near the calliper, but my OPC has told me that the line over the engine will need doing at some point.
I am planning for a big overhaul at some point, but the economy is not helping my situation at this time.
My old Crate has Cunifer and Aeroquip flexies, with synthetic brake fluid (SBF) been that way for over 20 years, works for me. (-:
a friend who is into customisation, uses SS brake pipes but apparently and perhaps obviously he said making of the ends is a more involved process than with Cunifer.
OPC replaced the hard lines on the rear callipers betwixt flexy and calliper on my 991, as they were beginning to show signs of corrosion.
I think the advantage of SS over softer Cunifer, is that it seems likely to be more resistant to being crushed, thus perhaps thought to add some degree of increased safety, no doubt more so if taking on the East Africa Rally or somesuch...? (-:
