Thinking of buying a Boxster ? - MUST READ ! - Page 9 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

The following are great sources of information for those interested in purchasing a Boxster : http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages http://www.iwantaporsche.net/ http://www.986faq.com/ Happy hunting ! Nick

I agree Nick! Should also add Randall's link on that must read list! Edit: Nick beat me to it! It was already there!! Good catch Nick! Thanks for letting me know!

Folks, How much of a deciding factor would a Rear Main Seal Leak (final decision for purchase) after all checked out good on a low mileage(23K)03'S ??

RMS is not the biggest expense you can have in a Boxster or Carrera but there is no gurantee that replacing the seal will fix the leak. You could end up with another RMS leak a short while later. The shaft could be out of center in a big way and throwing another seal at it is just a band aid solution. I would pass on this Boxster unless they offered you a substantial reduction, at least $4-5K or a extended factory warranty on the drive train.

I have a 2004 Boxster that I've owned from new since July 2005. In January I had the rms leak so had that replaced. 3 weeks ago, at only 10,181 miles the intermediate shaft did it's party trick and wrecked the engine. Porsche replaced it with a reworked one. Today I take it for it's free detail after my recent 'inconvenience' only to have the/a power steering line break before I got to the dealer! Am I really unlucky or is the reliability I can expect from Porsche?

weird ive had my boxster for 5years now over 100k miles...only issues i had so far was the AOS @ about 80k and my "drain holes" were plugged apparently its our responsibility to make sure plugs dont get plugged! well anyways it ended up flooding into the cabin and my head unit for the security/key was ruined couldnt lock the doors and couldnt do it manually due to the fact there is no key hole on my doors :troll:

My neighbor's 04 had the IMS at around 12K. Go figure.

No way I would own any Porsche without a warranty. Too many horror stories lately.

I would not worry about the horror stories. Think about it. How likely is someone without a problem to search the internet and join a Boxster forum vs. a person who has a problem and is searching the net for answers? You get a lot more people posting problems. Of the 200,000 Boxster owners, how many have posted on the net about engine failures? The numbers on the internet are disproportionate and slightly biassed. That is just something to consider, when your considering the horror stores.

Actually, there are TONS of IMS failures on reputable Porsche websites. No one is claiming that this is a statisticaly valid sample. However, to ignore the chance of a 12K meldown is not necessarily smart either. I sat next to a Corvette head on the plane yesterday. We tried to remember examples of total engine failure in the C5 and C6 models. Could not cite even one. Does it prove anything? Nope. However, I have owned plently of vettes and never was concerned about the drive train in any way. Can't say the same for Porsche experience. Bottom line, Porsche has some design work to do, IMHO. Still, I love the Box, only with a warranty please./

I used to own a Toyota Camry and part of a the largest Toyota club online called Toyota Nation, out of all the people I know both online or off, I've never heard from anyone within that circle that have infamous engine oil slush problem which was all over the news at one point in time. All of these are just fear-mongering from the media or from very selected few that have the problem and blow it up on the internet. Again, you will never hear from people that have no problem with their cars.

I will disagree with you on this one. If say, the Corvette owners had engines grenading, you would see it all over the forums. You don't. You DO see it on all Porsche forums that I have seen, including our own. Face it, these engines have issues. These issues have even hit the Porsche magazines, where the tech guys have illustrated the IMS and RMS design flaws. Warranty takes care of that, if it is a good one.

No one said that Porsche's don't have engine problems, which they shouldn't have. It is just debatable how often they actually happen. Of the 200,000+ Boxster's how many people have actually had a problem. I have heard a lot of people talk about IMS and RMS but I have seen very few people post about having it actually happen to them. It does happen, but I think that the forums constantly mentioning it makes it seem as if it happens more often than it actually does. Just my take on it!

It happened to me. Don't buy a boxster.

I guess everyone is entitled to their opinion, but I would say your comment is unfair. Every car, every manufacture has it's issues, it's good year models and not-so-good year models. I did a lot of research and looking and searching before purchasing my Boxster. No matter what price range I was in, I would not have bought any Boxster older than 2004, because of the plastic rear window and some more serious reliability issues. The IMS can happen on any of them, but I haven't heard about it as much on the 3.2. Ruled out a base. I was going to pay cash for the newest one I could afford, but opted for doing a big down payment on a post 2005 with certification and financed the difference. I did this on the insistance of my oldest bestest buddy who is an 30 years experienced indy Porsche mechanic. As it was I waited nearly a year longer than I would have liked to keep the financing to a minimum, while being able to purchase a very new, low mile car with 89,000 miles and nearly 5 years of full factory warranty, precisely because I have owned expensive cars with expensive failure issues in the past. It's called high performance, which usually includes high risk on high strung, heavily stressed mechanical apparati which are also built as light as possible. If you note my avatar you will see I understand what I'm saying. Been there, done that, wrote the checks. Buying a nine year old car with 66k miles on it, from any manufacture, that you have NO IDEA how many times it's been run to and above the redline, then taking it to a speed event yourself, where it failed, is a risk you should have understood before taking it.

I have to agree with Quickurt that it is an unfair comment. I see your point of view but you're one of a select few Boxster's to have been unlucky enough to have an engine failure. Just because a few Boxster's have problems doesn't mean they all do and you shouldn't buy one. I would also like to add that IMS is very rare on pre'-01 Boxster's. Which in my opinion makes pre-'01 Boxster's safer because you only have to worry about RMS which can be caught ahead of time and fixed. But there is nothing wrong with any year Boxster.

I want to thank www.iwantaporsche.net . I purchased my '00 Boxster S last December. My wife noticed that there were a couple of oil drops in the garage. Based on what I had read from the above site, I took it in for service. Not happy to say that $6,000 later (RMS, clutch, 'o' rings, axles, 60,000 mile service, the list is long) I know it sounds expensive, but I chose to get everything wrong fixed. The Porsche service department said they couldn't think of anything else that could go wrong (fingers crossed). I believe $6, 000 is beter than $12,000 (new engine) on a car I paid $18,000 for. Again, thank you to www.iwantaporsche.net for the tremendous insight. Oh yeah, moral of the story being that if you don't like your Boxster or want to tell everyone that they are a problem and not worth the money, then go buy yourself a Mini.

I also don't think it's fair to say that boxsters in general are poor and not worth the cost. They are efficient, fun to drive and wonderful when maintained properly. Even if the engine does let go, you can put in a bigger one for about the same cost (ok, maybe slightly more). And in the end you will still have a wonderful handling car. Just do your homework and make sure that you have the ability to make an expensive repair if necessary! Happy hunting to those looking!

I really, really , like my Boxster. I'm the second owner, bought the car with 78k - car now has 102,214 miles on the odometer. The Boxster is my daily driver & I drive my Boxster in a sensible but spirited fashion most of the time. I autocross it an average of once a month, which means it sees the rev limiter occasionally. I have only had to take care of normal ware items thus far (knock on wood) like having the oil changed ever 8-10k. And as far as I can determine, it has the original engine.

We ever have a hot aftermarket rare product for your cars, just a quick friendly reminder from windrestrictor.com 10% off forum members only! www.windrestrictor.com

You are most welcome. BTW, I was purposefully trying to scare off potential buyers who didn't have the intestinal fortitude and room in the budget to buy an older Boxster. However, I'd say the same thing about the Mini ... very high cost of ownership after the warranty expires and not very well built for the long-haul. The statement above would be far better with "Honda S2000" or "Toyota MR2 Spyder" in it. Both are nearly maintenance free compared to Boxsters. I half-believe they did this with the Mini to keep it's English heritage intact.

My sister has a 2002 Mini. The general consencious is that the 2002 was built cheap beacuse BMW didn't know if the car would be successful. But the new version and later years are built very well, because it is now one of the most desired cars. Which has done wonders for its resale value. It's better than the honda or toyota (Go to Mini's new car ranking site, "CarFun Footprint," The Mini is number 1 and the Boxster is number 2, which if you remove the Mini biass the Boxster is Number 1!)

Thanks. I am trying to decide what to buy. I loved the Mini but was afraid of it, because of the earlier ones. I am glad they are better now. I am on this site to learn enough to have a good knowledge of them and the boxsters before I decide to buy. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

A good friend of mine has a 2003 Cooper S. It's a fun little car. If I ever sell my Boxster S, I'll probably buy a mini. I wish they made a supercharged 2 liter though.

regarding the RSL. i recently took my car to a porsche event at the dealer and they gave me a "free" inspection. they told me i have a rsl leak. but ive never seen a drop of oil on my garage floor. how urgently should i take care of this? i know its been discussed this is a common /major issue, but my question is im not sure if the dealership just told me to take some more money off of me. thank you for your thoughts in advance.

It's RMS, Rear Main Seal, not Rls. It sounds to me like they are trying to steal your money, an RMS leak, means oil is leaking. If there is no leak then you can't really have an RMS leak. You didn't say how they claimed to have determined you have a leak, but I doubt they would be able to tell without at least getting under the car, and even then there would be no way to be sure without a more thorough inspection. It could be another issue that they noticed (but wouldn't the dealer now the difference?) I would seriously doubt any dealer that claims your car has a leak, when nothing is leaking.

Guys.. reading about all the engine failures and RMS leaks.. I was looking at purchasing a 97-99 with about 80k miles on it. Is it safe to say these issues are past this stage? Do they normally occur in the earlier stages of engine life?

Don't let these two issues scare you off. The new issue of Excellence stated that only one in five M96 motors had catastrophic maladies and many of them were replaced under warranty. The RMS is a gasket and when it starts leaking, you replace it... and the clutch parts too since you're right there to save on labor. I would not buy a 97-99 model though, and this comes from someone who owns one. Suspension wear becomes a costly issue in cars with 90k or more on them. Save more money and by an 03 or an 04 S with the 3.2 motor in it... the much newer car, lower mileage, glass rear window in the top, bigger motor with more torque, and the all-important glove box are all things you will not regret waiting to get in your Porsche. I wish I had waited. Learn from my experiences and buy the newest Porsche you can find with the lowest mileage on it and the largest engine they put in the model you want to buy. If you buy a 12 year old boxster, you will spend as much in repairs in the first three to four years of ownership as it would cost three or four years later to buy a much newer one.

I agree with buying the newest boxster with the lowest mileage possible.I purchased my 1999 boxster in 2001 with about 50,000 miles. I wasn't even shopping around for a boxster but their was one on the lot and the sales guy talked me into one. One test drive and I was hooked. The car was in such good condition i couldn't resist the convertible silver on the outside with reddish leather and carbon fiber accents inside... This was a pure race car from the beginning- a mustang, -350z -s2000's all couldn't match the feeling of a well built porsche. Being 21 and owning a porsche is a great feeling. If you can afford one- buy one!!!!! All used cars have risk.... ALL... why not buy what you want!!!!! ohh yeah.-- buy the extended warranty!!! : )

First time buyer of a Porsche 05 Boxter, approx 30k miles. out of warranty at the end of March. Do I buy or not an extended warranty and if yes can someone recommend a company. I'm told Great Lakes Warrranty Corp is reliable, are there others. Second question , are there any particular weak points with the 05 Boxter???

RandallNeighbor, The costs u list for repairs on your boxster... do most of them include labour? at what hourly rate? (Getting a PPI done on a Chicago area boxster S this week) Thanks, Peter

Peter, those prices include me buying the parts at Sunset at a discount and handing them to my independent mechanic, who charges me a flat rate of $100 per hour, not a book rate like a big shop or a dealership would charge. Double the prices to get dealer charges or a larger independent shop that uses a book rate and retail parts prices. You gotta pay to play with an old Porsche out of warrant. Buy the newest S model you can find with a 100k Porsche warranty on it if you want to make Porsche pay for their crappy control arm bushings, coolant tanks, radiator fans, etc. Otherwise, it's your nickel, and I don't mean 5¢ either... more like $500 a dealer visit or even more.

Randall, Thanks for the insight.... I'm more of a DIY type guy,.... and tinkering is kinda fun... especially if I know I am saving on labor rates like that! I'll have to check if Sunset Porsche ships to Canada. Peter

I am looking to buy a 2001 Boxster. The owner told me the engine was just replaced by Porsche due to the famous "engine seizure." Does anyone knows if the problem has been corrected or what would be the chances or what the statistics show about engine failure after they have been replaced?

Hi, I've had my S for 5 years and have roughly 22k miles. I’ve had no issues other than normal maintenance, and the front license plate holder falling off ☹. Porsche cost of ownership is higher than standard cars, but is certainly in line with other hi-end, or premium cars. I think the advice you’re getting here about getting the warranty thrown in is sound. These guys know their stuff. Get the car, with the protection, drop the top and let the similes begin.

Hi, I just bought a 1998 Boxster in Toronto,Canada my dream car? It has 50,000 miles on it runs great,only issue is the engine light stays on but after looking into it not a big problem will get it fixed. Had it diagonostic checked & maybe a vaccum leak? No worries when i bought my 1999 Pontiac Grad Prix in Toronto it had the samw problem. I drove it home 7 hours away under warranty they fixed it at home. So go for it happy motoring but if I were you I would do a history on the car get the SIN number and submit it to carfax. They can find everthing about the car if it was under maintenance?

Edgarflotte: There are a bunch of threads on this forum dealing with your question. I have a factory remanufactured motor in my 97 box. It was replaced at 80k and I now have 108k on it. No problems to date. But the IMS bearing should be swapped out on both our motors with a newer aftermarket one that's robust and will keep the motor from cratering. The other big motor killer is "D chunks" taken out of the cylinder walls. The M96 motor is not bulletproof, that's for sure. But don't lie awake at night worrying about it. Just replace the IMS bearing when you have your clutch replaced or your rear main seal replaced due to leaks. BaileyMC: Carfax is total crap. Doesn't show anything that is not entered in, and my carfax was clean and my motor had blown and was replaced at a dealership! I called my dealer with my VIN number and I was told that I could only get records from the exact dealers where the car was worked on. They have no nationwide network that they are willing to access for customers anyway. Meticulous records kept by the PO is what one is looking for when buying a preowned Porsche.

Things to know before buying a Boxster 1.Speaking of Carfax reports,they are total crap.Neither showed up on the Carfax. Get one though for title info. 2.Your PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) should include a 4-wheel, laser alignment. 3.Boxsters eat tires and brakes and brake discs. 4. Find a reputable Porsche mechanic before you take possession of your out of warranty Boxster.

Hey guys, I'm new to the forums and am loving the breadth of information it has been in helping me in maintaining my late '99 boxster. It has been a great machine since I've had it however I've recently been fronted with the task of replacing the clutch and flywheel. The car has done 95000kms and I was wondering what kind of life expectancy I can expect out of my new parts? Can anyone help? Thanks in advace

Hey guys, I am looking at buying a '05 Boxster S with low miles (~20k). Can anyone describe or point me to a good reference that can help me understand what I'm not getting by buying a 2007 or later car? I know that the power output changed in 2007. And do the 987-series cars have the same potential to experience RMS and IMS issues? Generally I'm wondering if I should be concerned by a 2005 car only having 20k miles as well. Too much of a garage queen? Any info or pointers to a good reference would be much appreciated. Thanks! Andrew

I'm 67. Owned cars made by at least a dozen car manufacturers over the last 50 years and 100Ks of miles. Probably 30 cars by the time you count all my family has owned. My 2 Porsche Boxster 986s, over a total of 6 years, have cost me less than $700 in unscheduled maintenance and never left me stranded. Could I have a major problem tomorrow, sure could. So could any car. But, compared to the 3 other sports cars I've owned (or even the sedans and vans and wagons), the Boxsters have had far and away the fewest trips to a mechanic per month of ownership of any brand I've owned. I've documented what I consider to be the buying considerations in detail including the best and worst features and the common problem areas as well as the model year differences. I've also commented frequently on how my experience has been positive. Is it the car for everyone? No. It is a sports car and will be more expensive to maintain especially if you can't do some of the simple work yourself. And if it has a major engine or transmission failure, it will be more expensive than a Toyota to repair. You shouldn't buy one if you can't afford the potential repair bills. Just like you shouldn't buy a house if you can't afford the potential repair bills. It is only common sense. And many Boxsters are getting just plain old ... 13 years old in some cases. You don't buy an older car with the same expectations of reliability as with a newer car. And of course newer cars probably have a warranty. But I bought 2 Boxsters where I was the third owner of each. Well used in each case. My first had no repairs before I totaled it after only 6 months by driving on summer tires when it was too cold. Couldn't stop. My second I've owned for ~5 years now and it hasn't had anything done to it in the last ~3 years but an oil change each year and an Oxygen sensor I elected to change....didn't need to..no CEL. Tires more expensive than for my Honda..you bet. But the Oxygen sensor for the Porsche was cheaper than the one for the Honda... and the Honda needed one 10k earlier in terms of miles on the engine. I didn't buy new nor pay near full price when I did buy, cheap for the fun I've had in them. I drive the trash to the dump in it and volunteer to go to the grocery store...and my wife knows I'll always take the longest way to the furthest store. If it failed tomorrow, I'd get it rebuilt. Probably cost me more than I paid for the car because I'd want everything possible done to the car. I wouldn't whine or go looking to blame. Stuff happens. It was my decision to buy, and I accept the risk of owning an older ('01 in my case) sports car with some by now known design issues. I rationalize every car has some, I just happen to know all about the one I own because I frequent the online forums. It sits waiting in the garage, and every time I walk by it I run my hands over its flanks. And every time I take it out, I get some favorable comment about it (and it is nothing special, just a 9 year old car in the most common color, Arctic Silver) Now if the weather gets warm like it is supposed to, it will go out with its top down this weekend and I'll enjoy the heck out of it. It sits waiting.

You really know a lot more about picking choice used Porsches than the average guy like myself. My car has cost me nearly ten grand in repairs, and it had a reconditioned motor put in it weeks before I purchased it. I budget $1500.00 a year for repairs, and most years I spend every dime of that and more. Readers of this thread should not get the impression that Boxsters are cheap to own long-term. They're far more expensive than other kinds of cars owned, unless you're coming down from a Ferrari, Maserati, or Lamborghini. There is a bright spot though. My Porsche repairs make my BMW repairs look like a bargain.

It's like dejavu, except when I wrote these they appeared as #6, 7, 8, and 9: http://www.iwantaporsche.net/BoxsterBuyersTips.htm

I've read this thread, but it's unclear about whether most of the major problems are limited to 986s or whether they continue with the 987s. Does anyone have any idea? I would really like one and I think I can afford a used '06 model or so, using Edmunds' true cost of ownership.

Ref "Things to know before buying a Boxster You have a nice website with good info. I plan to take your advise and visit Autozone and have them plug in OBD to check my problem below. Good thing, lets hope, is that I still am under warranty as "certified pre-owned" Thx for your info. Ray ******** *My 2006 Boxster S check engine light came on yesterday and it said visit workshop. Then later that day, the engine starting to almost stall in 1st and 2nd gear. Then this morning when I turned it on, a white/blue smoke with very very bad smell (like rotton egg/sulfur) came out of exhaust for about 5 min and engine would stutter up and down almost stalling. Called the dealer and they said have it towed in! Believe it may be a bad CAT. I think I may be able to drive it in vs. tow it? Anyone experience this type of problem before? Thanks and can't wait to get my boxster back on the road! Just bought it Feb 2010. Ray

The guy to talk to about this is Jake Raby. I have read (in print in Excellence Magazine) that the RMS leaks still exist.... of course, they're not nearly as common in cars with a tiptronic tranny from what I read on forums. Jake could tell you about the IMS issues for sure, but I believe they are still a problem considering the motor design didn't change much, just the displacement. Don't forget though that every Porsche model through the years has had some sort of motor issue that must be dealt with and none if them are going to be as cheap to own or "maintenance free" as a Toyota, which we've all gotten used to in short order.

Curious how many miles are on your 01.

Neither, buy American. I' sure you have noticed the changes in the cost of items ranging from food to property tax. Well if you have ever complained about this, or wondered why prices were going though the ceiling, it has partly to do with the fact that nobody is buying American products. This leads to America producing less products, and a shrinking economy.

Does anyone know the name of the part that is on the front portion of the rear wheel well?

mud flap / Mud guard ?

I recently purchased a used 2001 boxster and notice the front tire pressure to be exactly half of what is mentioned in the book 14.5 psi on each tires in the front and 18 psi on each tires on the back. The Manual states 29 for the front and 36 for the rear. I think it mean the psi is for each tires and not the sum of both tires What should it be ? Thanks

Tire pressure is for each individual tire. It is not summed. Follow what your owner's manual says for each tire.

Thanks a lot !!!

and if you have bad experiences, its part of the ride. Move on and get over it. I've had my 99 for 10 years now and is a daily driver. My biggest one time expense was $1000 bucks. Pretty darn great if you ask me. I've gotta say that this is one awesome forum and had provided me with lots of $ saving tips. Even if I didn't DIY, its ok to pay the extra $ to not get your hands dirty and have someone else do it for u. I'm currently in the market for a Ferrari. I'm on Ferrari Chat and its funny to see similar patterns of thinking when buying extraordinary cars. Wow - folks sure like to overthink things. Well not me - apart from doing your due diligence, you've gotta stop at some point and take the leap of faith. Life's too short mate...so good luck and may the force be with you! -enzo

Er, easy for you to say since you've obviously never suffered a major problem with you car. Come back with that cheery attitude after your engine has just grenaded and you literally cannot afford to replace it and I will duly doff my cap. If you've either never suffered a major problem or wouldn't really struggle to pay for it (I'm guessing both apply to you if you are Ferrari shopping), it's a bit harsh to lecture people for whom these problems are much more critical! I agree that a leap of faith has to be made - I made one on my Box big time (so far, so good). But I absolutely wouldn't criticise anyone for being nervous about their car or upset when it fails. There but for the grace of god etc.

---> I'm by no means lecturing anyone. Just motivating -> And dying in your beds, many years from now, would you be willin' to trade ALL the days, from this day to that, for one chance, just one chance, to come back here and drive that sports car that you've always dreamed about... Think about it!

As much as I'd love to drive a Bugatti Veyron on that closed course with the 5 mile straightaway featured on Top Gear, I would not trade all my days from this day forward to death to enjoy that hour or so of driving bliss. Sports cars are thrilling indeed. But what I'd much rather trade all my forward days for is seeing everyone on the planet come to know God's love in a very personal and transformational way. If I experienced that, I'd be happy to drop dead right now in my office chair at 48 years of age. I don't mean to change the spirit or intent of your question lejolierogue, but I thought I'd just answer it honestly since you asked.

So i'm about to buy my first Boxster. I've been looking at '00s -'02s. It looks like for my budget my car with have somewhere between 50k-80k on it. So I already know i would probably have to get the big 60k service done. I have to admit the IMS problem is scaring me (i'm not so concerned with the RMS failure). Should I consider getting the RMS/IMS/Clutch done as well as some kind of preemptive strike against the failure even though they could be fine. From what I see the IMS replacement is usually done with superior parts than those fitted from new so the chance of failure post changing are slim to none. I plan to keep the car for 7+ years and will do at least 6k-7k p/y on average so spending $3k now would be easier to swallow that spending $15k whenever these problems occur. Has anyone done or even considered this? Do we see more failures on the base model rather than the 'S' model? thanks

As you do more of your research on this forum and others related to Boxsters, you'll find that there are more than a few that have, for peace of mind, chosen to do the clutch/IMS/RMS "pre-emptively". For the mileage you're considering, the clutch could likely be due anyways. The IMS bearing can be done with "superior" parts, or it could be done with the original parts. In the case of the original part, personally I wouldn't use it as it's already known to fail. In the case of the "superior" part, there isn't enough hard evidence out there to show the problem is permanently eliminated. Until that body of evidence is available, even the makers of the "superior" bearing are recommending it be checked every 50k miles IIRC. In all my Boxster forum surfing I have not come across anything to make me believe the base or S has more IMS failures. Apparently the automatic tranny does suffer less failures. And Boxster engines don't like to be lugged. And of course make sure you get a good PPI done before buying.

@clickman ... thanks for the advice. I managed to find a really nice 2001/67k base model. Have had it checked out by two independent parties. One general inspector, and one Porsche specialist. Both have been impressed in with the car. I'm getting a 60k service done within the week, the Porsche shop will cut the filter open to see if there is any evidence of IMS failure starting. They also recommended that i do the clutch/RMS/IMS (LN/Ceramic) given the age of the car. Hopefully i should be doing that within 3-4 months (or sooner if there is evidence of a problem). This is my first real sports car. Have to say, I absolutely love it!

Same car as mine. What colour? Post pics!

Haven't had it detailed yet. Waiting to after service ... but it's clean!

Beauty! Can't tell in that light, but is it white, or silver or some other colour? You've got the same wheels as me - I really like 'em. Don't be like me when you first get the car and not rev it. These cars were meant to be driven hard!

yeah the lighting is a bit funny ... it's pure white. it had 3 owners before me. thankfully they all seemed to have looked after the car really well. the interior is spotless and there isn't a scuff on those wheels. theres a couple of door dings on the rear wing but that doesn't really bother me. i've been rev'ing/driving it a bit too hard. have had to clean the brake dust off the wheels a couple times already ;-) .... and have suprised a few people on turns by appearing out of now where. i've kept the PSM on until (a) i get used to the steering and (b) have a bit more open space. had it properly on the freeway today for the first time and it was just a dream to drive. i used to drive the an integra with a nice stereo system. now i don't mind having the radio off just so i can listen to that engine. can't believe i waited this long to get one.

Hey, look... It's the Amazing Spammer-Man!! Can someone get rid of this person, and prevent them from ever gracing our website ever again? Every weekend this guy shows up with a new alias. Can't this end? BC.

since that time my total expense has been for 4 tires (because they were old, not because they were dangerously worn) and nothing else. Someone asked and my car is approaching 58k miles. I don't drive it much any more but then I don't drive any of my cars much....except the golf car. I had no special expertise when I bought any of my Boxsters...what I've learned from the experiences and what others have posted I've distilled into my writings. So my cars weren't anything special (though the second car did get an excellent PPI that pointed out everything that needed to be done and I did those and more immediately. It got its 60k service at 45k just because I hadn't a great deal of confidence in the maintenance it had received to that point and I wanted to start out from a known good point. It will get the 90k at 60k for the same reasoning.)

Cool thread. I wonder if the news of bad news spreads faster than the good news? You never hear people randomly stating how they do not have issues with their 986/987 cars yet the IMS/RMS issues are well documented. Anyway, I may be in the market for yet another Boxster. I've had 4 and drove 3 of them as pretty much daily drivers. Other than one alternator, the 3 gave me no issues at all and only required tire and oil changes. My 99 Boxster I put 40K miles on, 01 S 30K miles on it, 03 S about 25K miles on. The 4th I bought last winter, a gem of an 05 S with 16K miles and warranty, never registered it and sold it in three weeks and bought a Ferrari 360 Modena. Oddly I knew I made a mistake and should have kept the 987. Driving the Boxster S routinely outweighed driving the Fcar on special occasions. So here I am again, much more budget minded trying to decide if I should look for a low mile 03/04 S or step up to an 05 S. I've searched this site for a while but still can't really make a decision yet. The car will be a fair weather daily driver and will probably see about 10K miles per year, maybe a bit more. Do I just go the best bang for the buck and look to spend low 20's for a nice 03/04 S or do I spend the extra for the 987? I only drove my 987 8 miles before selling it so I really am not familiar with the car. I do know this...I'm not interested in spending over $30K for a 987 when a nice 04 S can be had for $20K (or so I am hoping). Maybe I was lucky with my three 986 cars, never had a single issue with them and they were a blast to drive!!

I like your thinking of buying boxster. I strongly recommend that you purchase a boxster car because it is very good and thrilling to drive. I have my own boxster and i love to drive that. Now i think to purchase another boxster because i love this car so much.

I have a dream to buy a Porsche Boxster Spyder. I would love to have it on my birthday. Its a race car that doesn't need a trailer.

toddlee82, that's a mighty fine looking boxster, that's for sure. They go round the track like stink too. I just spotted one in the wild yesterday in the ritzy part of Houston. Neon blue with a dark blue top. Never seen one in that color before. I do have a problem with their pricing though. They took a bunch of stuff off an S and charge you a lot more for it.

Yes they do, Randall, yes they do!:

Good to see you posting again, Bill! I've never seen a spyder with a roll cage on it. Boy that's ugly. Then again, safety never is a thing of beauty or inexpensive on a track car, is it?

I agree. My wife's 02 at 21,000 miles RMS began leaking but no issue with that since. But, the alternator and water pump both go out within 2 weeks at 45,000 miles of one another not to mention the brake light switch and top parking brake sensor. Got to love em. This week we pick up an 07 we just purchased but has a warranty until Dec 2013.

EIGHT MILES??? Man, that's gotta be some kind of record!

Anyone who buys a used Porsche with a warranty is paying for the repairs, the price of the repairs just happens to be built into the price of the car. That is why a car with warranty is usually anywhere from $2,000-$4,000 more than similar vehicles without a warranty. My experiece from owning two BMW's that I bought CPO with warranties is that the warranty is about break even - meaning that the $2,500 premium that I paid to get a car with a warranty is about what I would have spent on repairs over the life of the warranty. No surprise there, the dealers know what is likely to faill and the costs to repair the cars and set the CPO price according and the private market follows the same pricing model. Since I really didn't save much with the warranty, I had no problem buying a nice '99 Boxster without any warranty. I'll pay for whatever needs to be fixed and come out about the same.

What do you guys think about a Boxster S 2001 model with about 50,000 km? Would I be killing myself with maintenance issues?

I bought my 2004 C4S in 2008 and immediately purchased an extended warranty (from an after-market company owned by the Penske Group, which also owns my local Porsche dealership). The warranty cost about $3,200. 18 months later the intermediate shaft let go, destroying the engine. The dealer honored the warranty and put in a factory rebuilt engine, together with a new radiator. The total invoice was over well over $18,000, and I had to pay just over $900 - the deductible and the taxes. Then after the car was totaled last October, I got a refund of over $1,200 from the warranty company for the unused portion of the warranty/premium. So you do the math - $2,000 saved me over $1,700. You can bet that when I bought a 2007 Cayman S to replace the C4S, it was a CPO from the same dealership.

is 10 years old so the possible failures of plastic parts due to age does present itself. AOS, water pump and water filler tank come to mind. Also check the age of the tires. If something major happens, it is not cheap to maintain. Having said that, I have a '01S with 70km and it has been cheap to maintain for the last 5 years/30 km ... cheaper than 2 Honda products of similar age.

And the total expense during that time is for tires due to age, not wear. Nothing other than gas. This year the brake fluid, oil change, transmission change, water pump and anti-freeze are all scheduled to be changed. I could stretch them all another year but I don't maintain a car that way.

U Might Want Too Take To Dealer And Have Em' Run It On The Computer If It Has No Warranty!!!! And Something Still Can Go Later But Atleast U Will Know It Wasn't Before U Owned It!!!!!!!

G'Day Eh ! So I'm new to this forum, had a couple of Cars. 2002 MINI Cooper - Dropped a Valve - Gone. 1990 Miata - Running Fine - But to Small - My head touches the roof. Been interested in getting a Porsche for a while, and I *fit* in a Boxter. So I'm trying to walk into this with my eyes open. Been lurking and reading some of the threads here and wondering how much i'm looking at for yearly maintenance / repairs realistically. I'm looking at a 2002 Sport Touring edition with 90K. I'm going to ask have it taken it to a Porsche dealer and give it the once over. Someone referenced Edmund's Cost of ownership - and it comes up with this. http://www.edmunds.com/porsche/boxster/2005/tco.html?style=100510880 About 2k to 3k a year ? I've done a fair amount of work on the last two cars, pulled all the suspension off, bushings, brake lines, pads rotors etc... - No Engine work Can you work on these cars your self - it seems like it based on some posts - But Heck - I have yet to actually *see* the engine Thanks, Don

Don, Welcome to the Forum, you sure are in the right place.. just a matter of time before you actually own one with an informed decision. At least you are doing your research now, (before buying) than later (meaning you already bought one) ! There are a lot of respected individuals here at the Forum , and one of them is already in this chain of Threads, Mike Focke is his name and you can start browsing his article on buying/owning.maintaining one.. There are plenty of contributors in this Forum and names you would be familiar with as you get comfortable surfing the Forum... At the end of all your research, it would still help to buy the best condition,well optioned and not necessarily lowest mileage car.. Color of choice would be yours.... and the differences between years... 97-02,and 03-04 and so on.... Good luck on your search.... you'll have this permagrin on your face once you own and drive one... Happy Boxstering ! t2 (986 04S)

The more I read about the RMS/IMS issues and their pervasiveness - the more I think of the MINI... They gave me a *Free* engine - over 7k later it was installed Except for them not filling up the tranny + 4K and wanting to change the ECU to put out the CE light - life would have been Good. Now I'm not saying that I believe it will happen - but it sure sounds like a *could* happen. Do I fell Lucky That makes me seriously think about getting the Extended Car warranty ( if i can get it on a US car imported into Canada)

I looked into aftermarket warranties about 4-5 years ago, and you couldn't get them in Canada. You had to have bought the car from a Canadian dealer. Maybe things have changed... As it was I did that - bought my 01 from a Canadian dealer, and I bought the extended warranty. Waste of money. If you're handy and like working on cars, these are easy cars to work on in spite of the engine being "hidden". Between the Bentley manual and all of the uber-helpful folk on this forum, I started off with brakes (snap), have done a few other projects, and am currently doing a project that includes replacing water pump, low temp thermostat, "S" oil cooler, fuel filter, motor mount, and a brake/clutch fluid flush. As I get more confident of working on the car, my plans are that when the Box is hibernating for the winter, I'll change the clutch, and at the same time do the IMS and RMS. I'll probably do the spark plugs and tubes at the same time. For some reason I have no interest in doing this sort of work on my other cars - I just find it fun on the P-car.

Don, I have to second Clickman, if you are getting the bug to work on cars these are great, I got mine with 53K miles in Nov and have learn and enjoyed working on it so much. Getting warm in the garage and the weather is nice for driving so I'm slowing down my projects. I will say though I got a great car, when I look back on the records from the previous owner it really has been a great car, above average in repairs. I have found things to do because I wanted to do them. If you are really worried about the IMS either plan on replacing it or buy one with the fix already. Once you get the car you'll get hooked and find so many things you want to do, or maybe not, it depends on your requirements. In my case i wanted a car to work on. If you are interested I'll PM you the history of my car...you'll see most stuff was just fun. I ended up getting new rims (18 inch) and really love the car...once you get used to a convertible and every cars unique rattles or squeaks you'll start just feeling the car. I like driving mine most at night on smooth winding roads, I could just drive it for hours. I find by the weekend I find excuses to go for a ride. For me it is addictive. I have a bad back so driving to work hitting the clutch all the time is not fun so I drive the Benz. The hardest thing for me now is avoiding big hits like Aerokits and expensive headers and cats. Good luck!

I can certainly appreciate the sentiments you both put forward, I got into the same spirit with the last two cars I've had, to the point where I started to wonder is I was too obsessed with the MINI to the point of turning it into an Object Art - looking every where for photo opportunities, and enjoying getting back into working on cars. I have not given up on the purchase, just got a does of reality I guess. I'll be getting the car checked out, and will indeed consider looking into getting the IMS job done ASAP should i take the plunge. Thank for the support, Don

Hey all, I'm going through my quarterlife crisis and I am considering a 2005 Porsche Boxster with 29k miles on it. The folks are asking about $25,500 for it, which seems to be reasonable. My biggest concern is I will get bored with the Boxster and really wish that I got the Boxster S. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find a good Boxster S with low mileage in my price range (under 30). Other question I have - do you guys absolutely recommend that I get a warranty? It seems like there are a LOT of people with IMS issues and other stuff. Which warranty do you guys recommend? Cheers!

2005 is the only year I would skip...I'll probably get grumped at for saying that. Anyway here is a nice 2006 for under $30,000. I bought his original wheels and I would trust this seller: http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29520 Myself I'm a 'S' guy, but the newer Boxsters (2005) have 240 hp which is pretty good. My 2000 'S' has 250 hp and it is nice. All depends how much straightline power you want...remember these are roadsters.

Why are you against 2005? Because it's the first year after the redesign?

Yes generally, though with these cars there isn't a ton of change from year to year. The consumers data says it is below average that year though I'm betting they have so little data on these cars. Do some searches, see what folks think of their 2005. If you get the 2005 will you have any money left to fix it? Do you like fixing yourself. What type of service history do you have on the particular car you are looking at. Test drive a couple of different years if you get a chance and try the 'S'. Hope to see you as an owner no matter what you get. I got the first year 'S' and seemed to have found a great car...very little repairs. Post pics of what you end up with! Oh btw, that is a very good price...get a PPI and enjoy the ride.

How difficult is it to take out the drivers seat. I need to have the seat repaired, it appears to have bottomed out, the previous owner drove the car for 8 years as a dd. The center piece is a bit lower than what it should be. Making the seat a bit unconfortable. please advise, thanks in advance for your help. peter.

I put this in the wrong place

Pj, it's just 4 bolts and an electrical connection. Easy peezy. Just remember to disconnect the battery first. That bottom seat foam can be swapped out...

I congratulate anybody who is contemplating buying a Boxster that reads these forums. Thinking about what u are getting into before buying is part of the fun. The can I afford it factor is huge. The Boxster is no ordinary car. Questions to ask I think should be: 1) Do I need a warranty? I took a chance and did not get one. I put that money aside for repairs. 2) The newer the better. My 2001 is ten years old and expect to put in $1-2 k a year into it. 3) A ppi is a must. 4) Think about whether u need an S model or not? 5) Think resale. Manual or tiptronic? Tiptronic harder to sell but better in city driving. What options? eg . psm or not?6) Shoestring budget for a Boxster? Forget it. This is no Miata.This is not all inclusive but something to think about before buying. One more thing - consider the IMS guardian. Lots of info out there. Enjoy the research.!

I just got a 81,000 mile boxster 2.7 maintance is up to speck. I have read A lot about ims failure and that has me worried a little. The previous owner had good maintance records. Car drives Great and I believe it will make it over 100k. My last Sports car was a 2000 Mazda mitia, I put over 150000 miles on this Car the only problem was the automatic trang went out. Every fun car. Hope this car is also.

In general, the 2005 has the same engine as the 2004 but a different body. This is typical of Porsche with saving a new engine for mid-life kickers to boost sales and keep the body style selling. I wouldn't be shying away from a 2005. Go read a review from 2005 to see all the changes they made...some worthwhile. Of course style is an individual thing. mikesporscheboxsterwebpages - mikefocke2 has a dozen articles on buying a Boxster.

My ownership experience was one of the best and worst car experiences I've had. I just sold my 2000 Boxster after owning it for 5 years. The least I spent on it in one year for maintenance was $2000. The most was last year and that was $6000 (new top, rear suspension failed, right rear axle, MAF, window regulator). I've owned over 30 cars in my life and it was the most enjoyable car (not even close to the fastest) I've ever driven. It handled AMAZING with H&R clubsport coilovers, good tires, and aggressive alignment and, after desnorking it, it was also one of the most enjoyable sounding. I loved everything about the car except the ridiculously high maintenance costs, the $12k bill for a new engine always hanging over my head, and the fact that because of the engine issues, all M96/M97 engined cars will eventually be relegated to worthless status at some point. I can handle the high maintenance costs, but having such a poor engine in such an expensive (when new) car is just unexcuseable and was the ultimate deal breaker. I'm going to wait 4 years and see how the new 981 Boxsters hold up and pick up a nice lease return.

thanks, this is very nice questions.

If you own a boaster you have to use fully synthetic 5w40 preferably Fuchs brand which is the factory fill in Germany. You buy a boxster in Germany it comes with fuchs5w40, that's what I use. Plus 94 octane gas is necessary with no ethanal and also use a Lucus fuel conditioner every 5000k, it lubricates fuel pump and cleans injectors. Now let's drive these Porsches the way the good Dr intended!

If the pre-purchase inspection comes back clean, I will be buying my first Porsche Boxster S this afternoon! Going with a 2003 model with only $40k on it with good maintenance records. The dealer is asking about $22k which seems reasonable compared to what I've seen. This forum has been very helpful, so thanks for all the posts. I won't mind spending the SSS to keep it running the way a Boxster S should! There is always the concern about the IMS, but we don't buy these kinds of vehicles for their practicality do we! Looking forward to becoming a Porsche owner!

Hi all im new to the site im about to purchase a 1999 Electric Blue 986, has 135k this hopefully will be my 2nd Porsche my last one was a 83, 944. I’ve been goggling about the 986 and is pretty much the same. I came across this site so here I am, if anyone has any suggestions please let me know the good the bad and the UGLY, I will appreciate it hopefully, I will be going to go see it this weekend.

Good luck from another NC owner (70 miles from you). I think my son years ago used to go to Jr Golf meets in Advance. If you have any questions this is a great place. Good helpful folks. I'm about to purchase my second Boxster today, the truck will no longer be in the garage. It's getting a PPI today. You should be getting an excellent price on a 99 with high mileage. Cheers!

i have learned about the alphabet soup check list, ims, rms, aos etc etc, specially after getting really close to getting my dream car. the search continues, and this one popped up on ebay. car has 4 owners, third one allegedly a porsche mechanic. i don't think he's on the forum as the car is not in the for sale section. Porsche : Boxster 986 in Porsche | eBay Motors i asked if he checked the dtc's on the airbag, since this is a known item with a TSB and a kit to address the problem. came back saying there was nobody in the area that could read it(???). still watching and thinking about it, what do you guys think?

Wow these prices have come down in the last two years. Was the IMS replaced with the LNS one? Nice rims also. Seems hard to go wrong at that price.

Quotes source post: 304396

On ebay, I see cars not moving for months. The IMS also gives me pause because I spoke to a Porsche "specialist" here in NJ about doing the IMS & RMS on a car I wanted a PPI on. He said they "only use Porsche parts" and that there was an upgraded factory part for it. He had no idea about this forum which is where I got most of my information from. There are also statements like "the old IMS was fine" - I mean, like how could they tell? Did they break the seal open to see if the grease was intact? Did they even know what the issue really is...

Since you have looked at a few already, you know that this one is probably a cut above others. At least the IMS, RMS and water pump are done. I would see if you can arrange a PPI. Are you sure you want a Tip though? Seems like a well sorted Boxster and the mileage is a good range, not too much and not too little. Did you pull the CARFAX? I was able to talk to the shop that had been servicing mine for the previous 7 years by finding it on the CARFAX report. I bought mine long distance but in the end it turned out great. If its the right color/options combination that you are looking for, go for it! Oh, and it's an S

On the tip, yeah, part of the reason it's not moving. I did read the car history and will re-read it again. I'm willing to go with a tip so the wife can drive it, although she can drive a stick (just not very well and not in a long time). This is what 2001's were and are still going for on ebay. Trying to get in touch with seller again...

I just sold my '97 with a blown engine(brought less than 2K)after 13 + yrs. of ownership.I have never had such a love hate relationship with an automobile.A great ride BUT the running costs were nothing less than obscene,(try a dollar a mile the last few years)particularly as the mileage climbed above 90K.The same things keep failing-top mechanism,flooded immobilizers,Actuator solenoids,water pumps,air/oil seperator.etc.CEL light on?Be prepared to ''assume the position".The engine quit abruptly at 122K.(that's how they all go-NO WARNING.-timing chain in this case)My favorite part is the congratulations you get from the community that your engine lasted that long!!This is BS:my former "84 Carrera was still running strong at 160K when I sold it (for more than paid for it) six years earlier.This is the problem-for years I was just waiting for this inevitable end-that's the killjoy.I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER WATER COOLED PORSCHE,certainly not an M96 based car.I know it's tempting,especially when you drive one,but there are reasons these cars are cheap.

I would see if you can organize a PPI. Are you sure you want a Tip though? Seems like a well categorized Boxster and the usage is a excellent number, not too much and not too little.

I bought a 2003 2 years ago after the IMS failed at 120K. The rest of the engine is pretty worn out as well with the rod journal bearings showing base material. I have the engine in pieces and just need parts. For me half he fun is tearing it down and rebuilding it. Now to find used parts...

Since this thread is recommended for prospective purchasers of a Porsche Boxster, I thought it would be interesting for members to rank which models/years they consider to be the best and why they believe that. Herewith my list: 987 Boxsters: 1. Porsche Boxster Spyder. The lightest, fastest and best handling of all. Since it was introduced after the elimination of the IMS bearing in 2009, the main worry about Boxster ownership/reliability is gone. Yes, the top is flimsy and impractical and it has been stripped of some equipment - but the same was true of the Porsche 356 Speedster as opposed to the 356 Cabriolet and Coupe. IMO this car is the heir-apparent to the Speedster and if there is a true collectible 987 Boxster, I suggest that this is it! 2. 2009-2011 Boxster S - Apart from the Spyder, the fastest and best finished Boxster until the 981. It also does away with the dreaded IMS bearing! 3. 2009-2011 Boxster - Less performance than the S, obviously, but the fastest and best finished base Boxster of all time. They also get better fuel mileage than the earlier 987's and most importantly, no IMS bearing to worry about. For this reason, I rank these above earlier 987 S models in spite of the performance deficit. 4. 2005 Boxster S and Boxster - Even though these have the dreaded single-row IMS bearing (with 8-10% failure rate), at least this version of the bearing can be replaced and upgraded without tearing down the engine - something that cannot be said about the larger bearing used in the 2006-2008 versions of the cars. 4. 2006-2008 Boxster S and Boxster - See above. If the potential for a failed IMS bearing and the resulting loss of an engine scares you, these will be the least desireable of the 987 model Boxster S and Boxster due to the cost associated with an upgrade (as the engine must be torn down). Admittedly, the IMS bearing in these is larger and should therefore be more reliable. I suppose you can toss a coin as between the two. Yes, these bearings should be more reliable than the ealier single-row, but you can't replace them during a standard clutch replacement as with all of the earlier cars, including the early double-rows. 986 Boxster: It will take a little while to explain why I believe the early 2000 Boxster S to be the best of all 986's, as it runs contrary to the usual expectation that models improve with time and production changes. For similar reasons, I also consider a very limited number of base Boxsters (the early 2000's) to be superior to some of the S models and all of the later base 986's. Here goes! 1. Early 2000 Boxster S - No, the 2000 doesn't have the 'updated' and purely cosmetic sheet metal changes that came out in 2003 (although personally, for a car that was designed to bring back memories of the 550 Spyder, I actually prefer the look of the original 986). Nor does it have the glass window and glove compartment that was fitted to the 2003 and 2004 Boxster S. However, consider the following: - It is the lightest Boxster S. Remember, the 2003-04 Boxster S gained weight with the large glass window and the additional top bow that was required for it. What is worse, the additional weight was placed exactly where you don't want it in a sports car - up high. The result of less weight and a lower center of gravity in the pre-2003 Boxster S means that with the same tires, they will be the best handling of all 986 Boxsters. However, if you want a glass window, you can upgrade at relatively low cost to a new top with a glass window that will connect to the pre-installed wiring for the rear defroster. Furthrmore, since the replacement top has a smaller window and does not require the additional top bow, it will still have less weight up high than the 2003 and 2004's. - Although the 2000 Boxster S does not have the virtually useless cupholders that were installed in the 2001 through 2004 Boxsters (ones that will allow spilled fluids to leak over the stereo and HVAC electronic controls), it at least has the HVAC controls where they should be - mounted conveniently and visibly, rather than hidden behind the shift lever. This is, afterall, a sports car and are you prepared to sacrifice good ergonomics for cupholders? - The cupholders and glove box also add a little additional weight and while minimal, think of the expense that racers will go to just in order to lose a few pounds! Indeed, think of the removal of comfort items in the Porsche 356 Speedster and 987 Boxster Spyder over the base models of those cars - items that were deleted precisely for the purpose of reducing performance-robbing weight. - The 2000 Boxster S retained the digital speedometer at the bottom of the tachometer, allowing someone to see both the speed and RPM's with one glance at one instrument. Inexplicably, Porsche reduced the size of the digital speedomenter and moved it to the bottom of the analogue speedometer (where it is completely redundant), in the 2001 to 2004 Boxsters. - The early 2000 Boxster S (up to engine serial number #M 671 11237) had the much more reliable dual-row IMS bearing. According to numbers released by Porsche in the course of the class-action lawsuit, significantly less than 1% of these failed (regardless of mileage, oil change intervals etc.) compared to 8 - 10 % for the later single row-bearings. Even if you choose to upgrade this already quite reliable part with a new bearing from LN Engineering, take note that your upgraded ceramic bearing will also have dual rows rather than the one for the 2001-2004; not suprisingly, while LN has not released the failure rate for their own bearings, they do note that while a few of their single-row bearings have failed (allegedly due to, or assisted by faulty installation), none of their dual-row bearings have failed! Late 2000 and early 2001 Boxster S with dual row bearing - Apparently some engines after serial # M671 11238 received the superior dual-row bearing as there were parts left over. It is, however, impossible to tell which cars unless the transmission and clutch have been removed so that the bearing can be inspected. Nevertheless, with proper documentation (e.g., the bearing had to be upgraded with a dual-row, rather than sinlge row IMS bearing) one receives the various benefits referred to above. Early 2000 Boxster 2.7 - see the comments above concerning the 2000 Boxster S, many of which apply here. The 2000 received virtually all of the benefits/upgrades that were put into the 986 over the years, except the glass window, top liner, cupholders, glovebox, inconveninently relocated digital speedometer and HVAC controls and the 3 spoke steering wheel. Fortunately, up until engine serial # M 651 12851 it retained the much more reliable dual-row IMS bearing and for that reason I place it higher than the later Boxster S with the single-row bearing. I understand that some will place the performance benefit of the S above reliability; in that case, your personal rankings will differ. However, one must bear in mind that when the 2000 Boxster 2.7 was originally tested by Porsche Excellence magazine, they commented that it felt closer in performance to the S than to the pre-2000 2.5's. Unlike later versions of the Boxster (or the S), its weight remained virtually unchanged from the 2.5, but it nevertheless had the following upgrades over the 2.5: - 2.7 engine with higher horsepower, greater torque and much more flexibility. - revised gear ratios that increased the top speed in second gear by over 10 MPH to 67 MPH. Not only does this improve flexibility in the twisties, it also eliminates the shift into third that is often required in 2.5 Boxsters in autocross events. - significantly faster acceleration and top speed - lengthened rear trailing arms to reduce bump steer - updated fuel injection to provide a 'fly by wire' accelerator. - brushed aluminum-look door handles, air bag trim and sport shift knob. - plastic sliding doors on rear storage shelf. - map pocket in back of seats - soft finish on black plastic interior parts One should also keep in mind that most of these cars were delivered with the upgraded wheels and tires from the Boxster S so that, with its lighter weight, there were very little handling differences from (and a better ride than) the S; and, those that were ordered with the optional handling package were identical to the S in handling. For me, the improved acceleration and top speed of a later S are not worth the risks (and sleepless nights) associated with the single-row bearing. Then again, I don't engage is stop-light drag races, nor do I take my car to the track. 2001 to 2004 Boxster S with single row IMS bearing - For me, however, the much greater peformance advantage (and increased flexibility) of the 3.2 S over the 2.5 Boxster do outweigh the risks associated with the single-row bearing. If one can afford to install an upgraded LN Engineering ceramic bearing (or the more expensive, so-called 'solution'), even though it is still a single-row and therefore more apt to fail (see above), the risks should be substantially reduced. 1999 Boxster - While these cars have the 2.5 engine and therefore less performance and flexibility, they nevertheless are extremely rewarding cars to drive and have the advantage of the dual-row RMS bearing. They also have some important upgrades over the 1997, 1998 Boxsters: - improved block casting eliminated the porosity problems that led to engine failures in the 1997, 1998 2.5's - rear suspension pick-ups points were strengthened (in 1998). - side air bags were added (again, in 1998). 2001 to 2004 Boxster 2.7 with single row bearing - I debated ranking these above the 99 Boxster - and for some, the additional performance and flexibility of the 2.7 over the 2.5 will outweigh the risks associated with the single-row bearing. For others, the greater luxury, comfort and better finish of the 2003 - 04 would do the same. Not for me - I'd need to move all the way up to an S for that! 1997, 1998 Boxster 2.5 - see above. Double-row bearings but with a caution: some of these cars had engines replaced with new, or remanufactured engines due to failure from block-porosity problems. It seems that depending upon when the engines were replaced/remanufactured, they could have the later and less reliable single-row bearing. While the block porosity problem should have shown itself by now, nevertheless I would want to confirm that one has the double-row IMS bearing before purchase in order to avoid ending up with the worst of all worlds - a 2.5 with a single-row bearing. Other opinions (and priorities) will vary, so lets see what others have to say. Who knows, we may end up with a general consensus on at least some of the cars!

I was looking at a Boxter as an alternative to the Miata I have, as a way to get more power but keep the Open air enjoyment. Frankly the IMS stories scared me and the access to the engine in general wasnt ideal for someone who wants to do as much of the work themselves as they can. ( I know its accesble and possible to work on, i've read several of the posts about several DIY jobs ) So a nearly new Boss 302 is in the garage, ( I gave up on the Roof or lack thereof ) I picked it up for the same reason I had a MINI before the Miata, for the money a car with 6,000 Miles and that power will be hard to beat... although it is by NO means a small car at barely an inch smaller that my wifes Fusion Well see how it goes, maybe there will be a 911 in my Future.

Deye, your Mustang will no doubt be fun but it can in no way be compared to a Boxster. The Boxster is incredibly well balanced and has handling and steering response that is in another league entirely. Its like comparing a precision surgical instrument with a sledge hammer - yes, the sledge hammer will be more durable, but there is no question which one is better for 'carving' your way through a winding road!

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Until i've had it for a few years I wil withhold any comments, but with the M3 as its compeditive target - and the reviews its had, this is supposed to be the *best Handling Mustang ever.* Well see how it does at the track *IF I can must the Balls to use my new found power... Comparing the MINI's turn in and cornerring abilities between Boxter was no contest - MINI + 1, but the Cooper had not power. Keep the Shiny side up !

DEye, if you think that the Mini had better handling than the Boxster (or an M3), you are alone in that belief. The lower center of gravity, lower roll center and wider track all contribute to better handling on the Boxster. Sure, if you had incredible tires on the Mini it might generate higher skid pad numbers - but that does not equate with handling and certainly not in the real world. Anyway, good luck with your purchase. Enjoy! Brad

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I'm not saying that the MINI has better overall handling that the M3 or Boxster, I said turn in What does turn-in mean? - Ask.cars.com was better. What makes a car *better* handling and fun to drive are quite subjective things... A car might look good on paper but Nobody likes it enough to make it financially viable to produce so it dies... I am not a Race Car Driver, but I've been participating in organized Motorsports activities for the last 12 years, AutoCross, Lapping days etc.. So it learned a lot and one of the things I've have learned is that even the same car can get different comments based on what the driver expects and their driving style. Some aspects of a cars performance are not subjective It has HP, braking abilities, specific suspension geometry that affect how *you* perceive the car performs. My personal perception of how the MINI responds to directional inputs initiated by my turning the steering wheel vs. the Boxster's I've driven are X you can try to convince me that you feel it is Y because it is somewhat subjective and personal... That's why there are so many cars for us to buy and enjoy because we all like some variety and perceive them differently. Sorry - I don't see any Boxster's on this List ? http://www.motortrend.com/features/laguna_lap Just a Caymen S a half second behind the Mustang ? http://fastestlaps.com/tracks/laguna_seca.html Behind 31/32 but tied at 37/ 38 ? Have fun and maybe well meet on the track fellow Ontarion You've seen my car, What Porsche are you driving ?

We are on a site for Porsche Boxsters and unlike you, I actually own a 2000 986 Boxster. Will your car get better lap times? No doubt - although I suspect most of that can be attributed to straight-line speed and the tires. Understand that I too have owned American cars including a 1979 Mustang 5.0 litre; indeed, I started doing Autocross in the late 1970's in a 1973 Capri V6 with an ansa exhaust, koni shocks, bigger sway bars, hard steering rack bushings and what for that time were considered oversize alloy wheels with Michelin XAS tires. Although not an American car per se, it was similar to a Mustang and you could make it go quickly around a corner that was bump free. I have owned two Datsun Z's: a 1970 240 and a 1974 euro spec 260Z with handling package and 3 piece Enkei rims, etc. I've also owned over the years, in no particular order, two Fiat X/19's (no power, but incredible handling and 'turn-in'.), a Porsche 944, a 1961 Posrche 356B, a Fiat 850 Spider as well as a couple of BMW's including my current winter vehicle, an X-3 with the sport package (wheels, tires, sway bars, springs and steering wheel). Your experience with the Boxster is akin to my experience with the Mini - it is limited to test-drives: twice in a loaner by the BMW service departments and a few times in the Mini's that are owned by a couple of my friends (who coincidentally, have also driven my boxster and raved about the superiority of the handling). I like to be able to steer with both the steering wheel and throttle - something that can't be done with FWD (except to increase understeer); I will certainly acknowledge, however, that your Mustang will be plenty capable of throttle-induced oversteer. Anyway, since this is a thread on the 986 Forum entitled "Thinking of buying a Boxster?", perhaps you should go over to a Mustang or Mini forum to express your opinions on the vast superiority of those marques. I suspect, however, that very few people who are considering buying a Boxster would consider either as an alternative; conversely, I suspect that few persons considering buying a Mini or Mustang would be looking at Boxsters. Cheers! Brad

Hello SoutherStar, So having that much experience with multiple cars over the years you can certainly appreciate their differences and the *endearing aspects* of each. I try to stay away from the "Religious Crusades" but it is difficult at times, one cannot but defend the vehicle they own for the reasons they purchased it and the characteristics they have come to enjoy about cars. - I am done here, I do hope there is a porsche in my future, but I doubt it will be a Boxster. ( my height and roll bar requirements to track the car, IMS althrough fixed in later models ) So I would appreciate my account being deleted in the interest of my no longer annoying anyone here with my non Boxster posts So long and thanks for all the Fish, Don

DEye, you are right that there are endearing qualites to many cars including your new Mustang - which no doubt will be a great deal of fun (and which clearly offers great bang for the buck). However, comparing the Boxster to your Mustang is a bit like comparing apples and oranges, IMO. Anyway, enjoy your new ride and participation in a site that is dedicated to your car, or at least, cars like yours. Cheers! Brad

yes indeed there are many differences between All cars, even the same cars after a couple of years driving - I had the opportunity to drive several MINI's *just like mine* and was quite surprised by how much different the transmission shifted, the ride quality etc... With no disrespect or trying to be rude, it seems quite obvious that no one here knows anything about the Boss version of the Mustang, ( and why would you unless you were looking for another car ) Just like you can turn the 911 Pendulum of Death into a well balanced car with $$$$ the Ford engineers turned their attention to making a Mustang that can BOTH Turn and go Straight... ( Imagine ) at least that's the premise that convinced me to purchase this car for much more than I had planned to spend on a Boxster... I will not try to argue the merits of one over the other - because they are two completely different automobiles... I don't know what would be actually comparable to a Boxster ? Two seater Mid-Engined Convertible ??? Third gen MR2 ?

Deye, agreed. When I was shopping for my used 986 Boxster I drove a large number of cars and found that, apart from early 2.5's which were much less torquey and flexible, the greatest difference seemed to be based not on model year, but condition. In some the steering felt more loose, the clutch engagment shuddered, there was hesitation on acceleration - all things that detracted dramatically from the driving experience. What compares to the Boxster? As you say, not much directly. Even the Cayman is not direct competition (even though 98% of the car is the same) as the hardtop creates significantly greater torsional rigidity - as one would expect - and therefore better handling. Speaking of the Cayman, you refer to Motor Trend magazine and, while I am not really a fan, I did note that in this month's issue they gave the new Cayman a rave review and referred to the fact that they had selected the last Cayman as the wolrd's best driver's car, or some such thing, over a bunch of exotics costing way more. Anyway, I'll check out the net in reference to your new wheels. I suspect that it wil be a total blast. Trust me, I am not anti-North American vehicles and, apart from those I have owned, have fond memories of the old Transam series, having gone to both Mosport and Watkins Glen in the early 70's to watch the 'pony cars' go at it. A friend of mine had a 1966 Shelby GT350 with posi-traction and I loved that car. Bottom line - enjoy the new Stang! Brad

I think the point is lap times alone are not a true measure of "handling". Fast lap times can result from horsepower, cornering grip, or a combination. You're comparing a #3650 medium wheelbase vehicle to a #2950 short wheelbase one, guess which is going to slalom better? I case you're wondering, I love muscle cars, I own a '65 Mustang, but not for their nimble maneuvering! On the flip side, the Boxster could be called a bloated pig compared to an Elise!

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I cannot say that I have been truly annoyed by anyones post that I have read here. We all need to drive what feels right to us and it is unfortunate that anyone is avoiding the 986/996 series due to the IMS. It takes an hour TOPS , above what you will spend replacing a clutch, to address Porsche's oversight with this motor. If you cannot afford this upgrade, then you do not have any business looking at most any sports car. These cars are not designed to the price-point of a front wheel-drive, four-banger econobox. While there may be other brand of convertible sports cars, I cannot think of many mid-engined sports cars, let alone one that offer the experience that Porsche has engineered into these cars!

Moving from Mustangs back to Porsche Boxsters, there has been some debate about the pricing of used Boxsters recently under the 'How long does it take once an IMS starts to go' and the 'Test drove a 981' threads that would probably be better here. While many others seem to disagree, I believe that the prices for good examples of 986 Boxsters (particularly early ones) may have bottomed; what is more, I believe that in the relatively near and long-term future, there is good reason to believe that they will start to go up. Herewith my top ten reasons: 1. The 986 Boxster was a seminal design for Porsche, not only because it likely saved the marque, but because a very large number of people (well beyond what Porsche had experienced before) had a positive emotional response to the design. Indeed, Porsche recognized this early on and one need look no further than the 'Porsche 986 Boxster 'Love Story' video narrated by Patrick Stewart, to see how the car was intended to and did tug at the heart-strings of so many. It is noteworthy that Porsche has not produced a similar video for either of the subsequent iterations of the Boxster (the 987 and 981). 2. The design was a unique mix of vintage styling cues combined with completely state of the art engineering. It harkens back to the famous (or as the death car of James Dean, infamous) Porsche 550 Spyder and cannot be confused for anything else but a mid-engined Porsche. The subsequent design changes - minor cosmetic efforts to modernize in 2003, the more modern and angular 987 and the much more modern and angular (and dare I say generic) 981, have all moved further away from the historical influences of Porsche's first mid-engined car, the giant-killing 550 Spyder. 3. The car's steering, turn-in, braking and handling were all beyond reproach for a car intended to be a 'driver's car' and road tests at the time were virtually unanimous with praise. The only knock was that, while quick, the Boxster's chassis was so good that it was clearly capable of handling much more power. True enough - and Porsche in fact addressed the complaint to a significant degree with the introduction of the 2.7 Base and 3.2 'S' model in the the 2000 model year and, with slight additional increases in BHP and torque (albeit with additional weight) in the 2003 model year. Regardless, one must remember that Porsche's reputation was built upon cars that were able to compete head to head on the track with cars that had much more horsepower and torque: the 550 Spyder and its 4 cylinder engine with Maseratis, Ferraris, Jaguars and various 'specials' with American V8 engines; the early 911's and their 6 cylinder engines with various Corvettes, Sunbeam Tigers, Cobras and production based Ferraris, etc. 4. For a car that was still quite expensive ($ 39,995.00 base in 1997 with various expensive additional option packages), the numbers sold by Porsche reflected the incredible interest that it had generated. What is more, it is clear that over and above the number of purchasers, there were a great many more who lusted after one in the late 90's but could not afford the purchase price. I was one of those persons. Recently I spoke to a 27 year old who said that the 'original Boxster" was the car of his dreams when he first took interest in sports cars as a twelve year old. Is it unreasonable to assume that, since prices for good examples of early 986's are now less than many used economy cars with similar mileage, a number of those people would love to have an 'original' 986 Boxster for nostalgic reasons? 5. Since many U.S. states permit classic car registration 20 years after manufacturing date, the early 986 Boxsters are also close to attaining classic car status. For some this will enhance the image of owning an older Boxster. Indeed, I would suggest that with the introduction of the 981 Boxster, the 986 Boxster has already moved past being merely a used Porsche/the previous model of Boxster/ a dated car, to being the 'original' Porsche Boxster (as it was described by the 27 yeasr old I have already referred to). This is significant if one believes, as I do, that like the 911, the Boxster is part of Porsche's long-term plans. This distinguishes it from other entry-level Porsche's such as the 912, 914, 924 and 944 which were eliminated as models after their initial model-run. The cars will benefit from this sense of 'lineage' or 'ancestry' that also benefits the early 911's, but which did not benefit even more expensive models such as the 928. 6. Although the early 986's are now getting long in the tooth, they still present an incredible driving experience. This reputation can only be enhanced by the fact that the original 986 Boxster 2.5 has recently been chosen by the SCCA and PCA as a 'spec' racing class. For those who have forgotten about the passion that was generated by the 986, these races will act as a reminder. For others too young to have been around when they were introduced, it will create recognition of the model. 7. Many owners of classic or collectible cars love to be able to take them on road trips. Unfortunately, most early sports cars (and especially roadsters) tend to be uncomfortable and to lack sufficent luggage space for anything but an over-niter. On the other hand, the 986 had ergonomics, HVAC controls and trunk space that made it (and still make it) quite suitable for road trips: it was the first Porsche with state of the art HVAC that could defrost the interior windows (and keep them clear) in inclement weather; and, its dual trunks provide unusually large and flexible luggage space for a roadster. 8. The PCA (Porsche Club of America) has a huge membership (much larger than any other imported sports car) and puts on a large number of national and regional events, including social events, driver training, track days, car shows/judging, parts discounts, etc., etc. A 986 Boxster is a relatively cheap entre to this exclusive club and the events will prove popular to those who are interested in a collectible car. 9. In terms of a collectible car, while the fact that the 986 was produced in such large numbers will undoubtedly keep the prices from ever becoming extremely high, nevertheless: - over the passage to time, the number of excellent examples has rapidly diminished. This is being accentuated by the fact that many who have been able to purchase these cars at low prices over the last few years, are unwilling/unable to maintain them to a high standard. While a 986 Boxster may now be priced like an economy car, it is decidedly not an ecomony car, nor are the parts and maintenance costs! - even cars that were sold in much larger numbers than the 986 Boxster can become collectibles with appreciating values. Consdier the Mustangs from 1965 through 1970. They too were cars that brought about a strong emotional response in large numbers of people. Many who wanted but could not afford one (or were too young to buy one) at the time, have now purchased them as collectibles. Early passions die slowly, if at all. Put another way, does anyone ever forget their first love? The 986 Boxster, like the Mustang, is that kind of car. - good parts availability. The fact that so many 986 Boxsters were built means that there will continue to be a large supply of used parts (and with lack of maintenance and the passage of time, many cars currently on the road will soon become parts cars). The large numbers also mean that many companies will continue to make replacement/reproduction parts. 10. The release of statistics by Porsche in the course of the class-action lawsuit concerning IMS bearing failures should provide some real comfort to prospective purchasers of 986 Boxsters. Unlike some of the alarmist claims on the internet (all IMS bearings will eventually fail!), it is now clear that failure is either relatively rare (in the case of the later single-row bearings at 8 - 10%) or exceedingly rare (in the case of the earlier double-row bearings at much less than 1%). Whatever impact that this has had on resale prices (and for those who have checked on the internet prior to purchase, it surely must have frightened away at least some buyers), these numbers should stop the hysteria. Lets face it, uncertainty about something that could lead to complete engine failure and potential replacement costs in excess of the value of the car can't be good for demand. In addition, the upgraded IMS bearings that are now available (and which can be installed for very little additional labour costs over a clutch replacement) should all but eliminate this as a cause for concern for purchasers who see these as collectible cars, rather than daily drivers. Brad

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I do need to point out that their are two "upgrades" to the IMS: the "IMS Retrofit" and "IMS Solution". IMS Retrofit | The LN Engineering IMS Retrofit Kit for MY97-05 Porsche Boxster and 911 Models The IMS Retrofit is an upgrade but not a fix, IMS can still occur but is much less likely. Current price for the part is $650. Porsche essentially installed this in 2006+ 987/997. IMS Solution does away with the bearings that would fail. It's currently $1,500 Then there is the IMS Guardian which is basically a magnet on a sensor that warns you if there are metal shavings in the oil. That's currently $260-$410. IMHO every 1997-2008 porsche owner should have at least a Guardian. I will be having one installed come next oil change, since the sensor replaced the oil plug it's best to install when oil is drained. Even with a 2006 I worry, and IMS failure is not the only reason metal may be in the oil.

986inquiry, I did not say that the IMS upgrades make IMS bearing failure impossible - only that "they should all but eliminate it as a cause for concern". When one considers the relatively low failure rate of the original bearings (and extremely low in the case of the original dual-row), I stand by that comment. With respect to the larger bearings introduced by Porsche in the 2006-2008 model year, I did not understand that they were ceramic. In any event, while there are a number of reasons that one can get metal filings in the oil, there is nothing to suggest that failure of any of these parts occurs in the engines at anything beyond normal frequencies. All engines can fail and those with poor maintenance schedules are, of course, much more likely to suffer internal failures. My point was that there is no longer a need for paranoia on the part of owners of these engines. Brad

The problem with a site such as this is that people typically only post when they have had a problem. This leads to a slanted view of the cars as a whole, particularly since the original 986 Boxsters are now between 10 and 17 years old (the 2014 MY starts production in the next month). What sort of reilability would one expect from a 10, let alone 17 year old Toyota that was driven as hard as most Porsches? Herewith my list of positves in terms of reliability/durability of the Boxster, based upon my own experience, as well as the reports reviewed on this and other sites: 1. BODY/PAINT - Porsche's fully galvanized, laser welded bodies are as rust resistant as a steel body can be made. I have yet to see a rusted 986 Porsche, even when driven on salted roads in northern climates. Most Boxsters still have their original paint and, apart from dents and stone damage, have a finish that has held up remarkably well. Compare that to Toyotas, Mazdas, Nissans etc. of the same vintage. 2. TOP - Excellent quaility German cloth tops and a well-engineered convertible top mechanism that has proven remarkably reliable compared to many other convertible tops, in spite of its complexity. Due to the numbers produced, replacement tops are readily available at low cost. 3. INTERIOR - Sometimes criticized for cheap-looking materials, even the interiors in original Boxsters have held up remarkably well over the years - especially for an interior that is often exposed to direct sunlight. Have you ever seen a cracked dash in a Boxster? 4. BRAKES - Unlike many cars where calipers need replacement with almost every brake job, the Brembo 4 piston monoblock calipers have proven to be not only very effective, but remarkably durable. 5. STEERING - Not only does it provide accuracy and incredible feedback, but few owners have had to replace rack and pinion gears, steering racks and power-steering pumps. Compare that to the frequently replaced (at over $3000.00) electric power steering units on the BMW Z3 and Z4! TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH - Unless abused (not unusual in cars that rev high and are often shifted quickly and sometimes inexpertly), the transmissions rarely fail. Compare that to the epidemic of failures in the Chrysler minivan, which is rarely driven hard! Clutches too can last up to 200,000 miles (see Pedro, of pderosboard), even when tracked. Go for high rev starts with the big rear tires, or fail to match revs on upshifts/downshifts, and yes, you can burn them out quickly. Drive them smoothly and they tend to last for a considerable period for a performance car. SUSPENSION - Yes, ball joints cannot be replaced separately, but in cars that are not abused/driven on very rough roads, it is common to get 80 - 100,000 miles before components need replacement. Considering the stress that the suspension gets in hard cornering with relatively stiff springs and bushings (all required for precise handling), that isn't bad! ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - A vast improvement over earlier German cars, Boxsters rarely have failures with their charging system, instrument clusters, power top/window motors and digital HVAC controls. The only common failures not due to abuse are the ignition switch (a $35.00 part from Audi and about 1.5 hours labour) and. less frequently, the light switch (an easy, if slightly more expensive fix). The immobilizers can fail if people allow water to accumulate in the car due to poor maintenance - holes in the back window, failure to clean out the drains, leaving the top down in the rain. COOLING SYSTEM - Remarkably good for a mid-engine design, which required radiators and fans in the front for an engine with air ducting fans in the rear. Compare the reliability with mid-engined Italian cars (including the early Fiat X-19's, not to mention Ferraris and Lambos, etc) and you'll see what I mean. Yes, some people have issues with the waterpump (although some last for over 200,000 miles with proper cooling system maintenance). Yes, coolant reservoir tanks have been known to fail, but what does one expect of a plastic piece that held extremely hot fluid under pressure for that number of years? Fortunately, neither is a terribly expensive repair and, the radiators, fans and even the hoses have proven to be remarkably reliable. ENGINE - Apart from the A/OS (another now aged plastic piece that is relatively inexpensive to repair) AND IMS BEARINGS, these engines have also proven to be highly reliable if properly maintained. Even the IMS failure rate (much less than 1% for early dual-row bearings and 8-10% for later single-row), are not that horrible when one considers that this is regardless of age, mileage and maintenance schedule. In any event, there are fixes available. Overall, for an old performance car that is typically driven hard, pretty good durability and reliablity IMO! Brad

Brad that was an excellent post!

Excellent post Brad. I could not agree more with your analogies & comparisons. Buying an older Porsche has some risks, but in my opinion more rewards since the experience is so worth while. I bought my car in spite of the IMS fear mongers. Do I think about it? Yep, but I stopped letting it wake me up at night figuring I have choices if the worst happens.

Excellent post Brad! Just got back from another top down drive in the evening and absolutely love this car! Told my nephew he needs to get one when he is done with college, much better than a Corolla! Live is too short to drive a boring car. These cars, despite their faults, are an extremely good value IMO. Your points about how hard these cars are driven and yet hold up remarkably well is a point well taken. Thanks for the perspective!

Members’ Rides June 2013 Above is a link to an article on the website for the Porsche Club of Americal/Upper Canada Region, from four individuals who recently purchased used 986 Boxsters (and no, I am not one of them). Somewhat interesting, IMO, as the first story refers to somoeone who had always wanted one and believed that, at the current prices, now was the time to buy (and the latter ones telling how, in effect, these cars sell themselves). It does tend to confirm my belief that the demand for these cars will likely remain high for middle-aged people who had been interested in them (probably from the time of their introduction) and find, to their surprise, that they are now able to afford one. Brad

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Spot on, Brad. I first discovered the Boxster concept car in a magazine article in 1992, which suggested the possibility of Porsche manufacturing it. Target price was $29,995, I believe, but I knew it would come in substantially higher than that. Might as well have been $1,000,00.00, as there was NO way I could come up with that considering our situation and the responsibilities we had at the time. Fast forward 20 years, and the very popular Boxster (I think over 243,00 units have been sold) is now available at a very reasonable price. And many of the examples for sale are in very good to pristine shape. So yes, we middle-aged boomers are enjoying the heck out of these fine automobiles that at one time seemed completely out of reach. TO

TO, I was in the same situation. Fell in love with the car but was unable to afford one at the time due to family obligations. Sometimes it's not so bad getting older! Brad

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I've been waiting my whole life to get old! TO

I am looking at buying my first Boxster and wanted to know if there were any recommended used dealers in the UK apart from main Porsche dealers that is. cheers

Ginger.... Go out and buy a copy of "911&Porsche World" magazine - there are quite a few Porsche specialis listed. Just pick a couple of businesses close to where you live and go from there.....

gingerboy, I can't speak to where you are, but regardless of the reputation of the dealer or whether you buy privately, GET A PPI, preferably from an experienced Porsche mechanic who has no connection with the car. You are also much more likely to get maintenance records from a private vendor and that is also extremely important. Good luck with your search! Brad

i was in the same boat as the thread starter but after reading this im much more informed about how to have my porche appraised and priced. thanks guys you might of saved me lots of money..

Congrats to any would be owners who are thinking about buying a Boxster and reading this thread. I got a PPI done before I bought my car. A more in depth PPI I believe is required. The basic PPI does not include the following but I and am sure a bunch of others would agree and some have suggested the following in addition: - remove oil filter to check for metal - drop oil pan to check for metal - a leak down test This list is not all inclusive. My experience after 2 years of ownership is that the Boxster is the most fun car I have driven in my life. However it comes at a price. I do not think that it is a durable car in terms of some components. There is always the possibility of IMS failure. Have had CV joints refurbished, idler arm replaced and if I keep the car long enough wheel bearings replacement. This is on a car with only 40k miles. My car is a Boxster base 2001. Before you buy this car you have to ask yourself if you should have enough $$$ in the bank to budget for a failed engine plus 'normal maintenance' of about $2k a year.....Hope this helps!You cannot run a Boxster for the same cost as a Miata.

Recycledsixtie, I agree totally with your recommendations in terms of the PPI - although I do not believe it is necessary to have the oil pan removed (especially if it has a magnetic drain plug) unless the oil had just been changed. Turning to the components you mention. In two years of ownership, apart from maintenance (oil/filter every 5-8000 km, replacement of the serpentine belt and windshield wiper blades), my only repair has been replacement of the ignition switch (a $35.00 Audi part and 1.4 hours of labour). I too have budgeted $2000.00 for annual maintenance and thus far I have banked a great deal of that amount for potential future problems. The CV joints are typically more problematic in the S (more extreme shaft angles) and it would seem that most people with a base Boxster are able to go in excess of 100,000 miles before they need replacement. Were the boots ripped at all at any point, to your knowledge? Wheel bearing replacement at such low mileage also seems a bit unusual, but whether or not those problems are typical, you are correct - your maintenance costs aren't going to mirror that of the much cheaper (and much poorer performing) Maxda MX5 Miata. Brad

I have sent you a pm....and thanks for the interest.

The incredible variance in the longevity of various mechanical components experienced by members on this site got me thinking about the causes. Some people are able to get almost 200,000 miles out of a water pump, others need multiple replacements in 100,000 miles. Some experience early CV joint failure, whereas many get well over 100,000 miles out of the original ones. Some need clutch replacements at 30 to 40,000 miles, others have their original clutch at 150,000 miles. Some need replacement of their suspension components at 60-70,000 miles, others not until 120,000 or more. Some suffer transmission failures, whereas others have no difficulties for a quarter of a million miles or more! The list goes on and on. I cannot believe that production variances at Porsche are that extreme and hence, I have to believe that there are other causes. Of course, proper maintenance schedules including more frequent than recommended oil changes are important. However, just as important IMO is the way the car has been driven. There seems to be prevailing, or at least common attitude amongst owners that you should drive your Porsche 'like you stole it'. Hard and without sympathy for the mechanicals. The result, I suggest, is bound to be premature breakages and failures of many components. High-rev starts and participating in stop-light drag races are not, I suggest, what these cars were designed for. The result is bound to be increased strain on not only the tires, but the CV joints and transmissions. Rapid upshifts are also going to put undue strain on the synchronizers and eventually, the gears themselves. Mis-matched rpms on downshifts are also going to contribute to wear on the CV joints and transmission. Indeed, sloppy shifting can result in hitting a lower gear than intended on an up or downshift and over-revving of the engine. And we know what that can lead to!!!! Inexpert driving can often lead to curbs being hit. Yes, it contributes to 'road rash' on the rims, but it also puts strain on the suspension and steering components and creates problems with suspension alignment. Of course, it is not only driving a car 'like you stole it' that can contribute to increased wear and tear on the mechanicals - inexpertly riding the clutch and lugging an engine that is designed to rev is also bound to contribute to early failures in the clutch and engine. Where you drive is also bound to be a significant factor. Driving regularly over train-tracks and potholes (and especially doing so quickly) will put great strain on suspension and steering components. Using your car primarily for short jaunts to the mall will also contribute to wear to the engine - short runs mean a substantial amount of the use will be prior to the engine warming up. This will lead to condensation in the oil and problems beyond the door knicks and dings which often accompany that type of use. Prior to driving the car that I ultimately purchased, the 70 year old owner got in the driver's seat and drove the car until it was completely warmed up. He shifted expertly, double-clutching all downshifts and not rushing his upshifts. At one point we crossed some railroad tracks and he slowed to virtually a crawl. He did not lug the engine, but he also did not rev above 3000 rpms until the car was fully warmed up. His takeoffs from stops were smooth and efficient. When we switched drivers, I was almost embarrased at my own efforts to drive smoothly in a car with which I was unfamiliar. He told me that he drove the car primarily in the country on weekends and that he avoided malls and parking lots like the plague. The COMPLETE absence of knicks, dings or scratches on the doors and fenders provided substantial corroboration for that claim. So too did the complete absence of road-rash on the rims. He claimed that the car was never driven in the winter and that he kept a rigorous maintenance schedule. He had all bills for his years of ownership, showing 6 to-8000 km (4-5,000 miles) a year and oil changes every March or April, when the car was put back on the road. These records and the timing of his oil changes also tended to confirm that the vehicle was not winter driven. The upshot? Apart from regular maintenance and having to replace my ignition switch, my car has been trouble free during my two years of ownership and 16,000 km. I cannot help but believe that the care and expertise he exhibited during the test drive were representative of how he drove the car at all times. Not like he 'stole it', but as a careful owner who was sympatico with the car's mechanicals and took pride in operating it quickly, but also smoothly and expertly. So yes, I suggest that before you take the wheel, you ask the seller to take YOU out for a test drive. Brad

So very wisely written southernstar! Every point you made is spot on.Sounds like a great car you have.

I am looking at buying used. I have a Porsche specialist tentatively lined up for a PPI, and possibly oil change and filter cut, depending on the maintenance of the car(s) I end up looking at. Out of curiosity, if someone had done a recent oil change, how long for the chips to show up in a new filter? Should I be suspicious of a very recent oil change? Also, where do I find the serial number on the engine, if I wanted to check if it has been swapped out? I have visions of driving it to get it inspected and the engine blowing up on me, but that is probably just paranoia. Right now there is a black 2002 S calling me with 29 K miles on it, I found a 2001 S with 84K miles for $5K less, but I am not sure I like the color or the miles. Thanks in advance.

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A couple of things I would suggest. I don't have all the answers here. When you test drive a car, before you start it , turn key on before starting to make sure all warning lites illuminate especially the CEL light. If the CEL lite does not illuminate before starting, then I would suggest you walk. Once started all lites should extinguish. I would think that if the oil filter had been changed and the ims bearing was grinding then there would be more metal. Still a good idea to drop the filter and check it. Try different Boxsters. In 10k miles my 2001 base Boxster makes a lot more rattles and different noises than when I got it. If the PPI is satisfactory to you and has problems you can either walk or deduct the cost of repairs off the asking price.If you or the owner drives it to the PPI place, if it implodes it still is not your car so you are not responsible except if your are negligent(overrev etc). Others will chime in. Good luck with your purchase. It is a fun car!

The engine number is on the passenger side of the engine, on the lower block just above the oil pan joint. You will need a flash light and a clean rag or steel wool to see it without removing the R/H/side rear wheel....

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/48370-would-you-do-again.html Above is a link to a discussion as to whether current owners would buy another Boxster.. IMO, this is possibly the best way to assess owner satisfaction. Bearing in mind the age of the original 986's, the IMS issues and the cost of maintenance in relation to garden variety cars, the percentage who have no regrets is pretty impressive! Brad

to this forum and want to research something before asking the members, I would suggest that you use the search function to look for answers first. It is quite likely if you have a generic question such as which oil, which filter, which tires etc then the answers may already be in past threads. You have to be a member first before you can do a search. Thanks for reading this!

Just picked up an 03 Boxster S. Everything was perfect about the car except the tires. They have tread left but they are older tires. A lot of vibration, and very harsch ride. I'm looking to get new tires. This csr has the 18" Carrera wheels on it. Wondering if there was a tire available that would give a softer ride and some performance. Not looking to race car, live in South, not driving in snow........

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I have 18's and put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on. Much quieter and smoother than the tires that were on there. Lots of threads on here about tires. Also, Tire Rack has great comparisons on their web site. Many on here like the Hankooks. Here is a Car and Driver article: Tire Test: Nine Affordable Summer Tires Take On the Michelin PS2 Comparison Tests - Page 10 - Car and Driver Welcome to the forum and we need pictures or it didn't happen

good a used Boxster is? I will give you an example using my car as an example. 45k miles, 2001 Boxster base and no CEL. What could possibly go wrong? CEL light is out as it has been reset. I have changed the oil filter to get rid of the green pieces . Code P1341 I have been assured will come back after a long drive. 100 miles? I personally could not sell my car in this condition but am sure many could and will. Guy.

Guy, that is no different than any other used car from any other manufacturer - it is always a caveat emptor situation unless you know the car and current owner. Of course, it is another reason that a thorough PPI is so important. I had a PPI conducted on my car and, when all else was positive, paid for an oil/filter change so that we could inspect (cutting the filter in half) for particulate matter. Brad

Edmonds and Consumer Reports still give props to Boxsters for their reliability, even older ones. That being said, any car that gets into double digits of age are going to have some challenges and expenses. And no matter how well kept a car is - 13 years is 13 years and something could go wrong tomorrow, no matter how much preventive maintenance you do.

What should I look at besides mileage when buying a second hand boxster?

Lots of horror stories on this blog. I've had my '98 Box for six years now and she's never asked for anything other than routine maintenance.

Until I'm still thinking if it is worth buying.

2001 Boxster 5spd with 91K miles 2001 Porsche Boxster 5spd I would appreciate some other peoples opinions on weather I should go for it and buy it, or if there are too many miles on it. Thanks in advance!

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To start, 97K miles isn't too many. What matters is how well the car was cared for during those 97K miles; Is the owner offering any repair history or receipts? That will tell you that the car was well cared for. Its not a deal killer if they don't have that info, more of a bonus. Regardless, get a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) from a reputable Porsche specialist (independent or dealer). That will be the best $300 you ever spend. They will be able to tell you exactly what you're getting into. Despite the affordable purchase prices these days, a Boxster can be somewhat expensive to maintain and repair. The rule of thumb is to budget $2,000 per year for maintenance and repairs. You might not need that much, but better to have it than not. Also, consider doing some of the maintenance/repairs yourself. Boxster's are not hard to work on and there are tons of instructions on how to do everything from change the oil to rebuilding the engine. You can save quite a bit on costs this way. Either way, find a competent, reasonably priced local Porsche independent repair shop. They will become your best friend. Do some searches on this Forum about "PPI" and whatever else you're wondering about and you'll find a lot of good, constructive discussion. Be sure to do a search on "intermediate shaft bearing failure" or "IMS bearing failure". This failure can affect a small percentage of Boxster engines. There are replacement parts that will mitigate the risk. You'll need to educate yourself on this subject. A Boxster is one of the best handling cars in the world and it will put a huge grin on your face every time that you get in the car. Guaranteed. Best of luck and I hope that you join us soon!

The only thing I would add to what thstone says, is that from reading through the ad, it mentions a crack in the paint on the rear quarter: That may be nothing, but to me it implies body work from a collision repair that may have been done cheaply. All the more reason for a good PPI. Overall it looks very nice and well cared for in the listing.

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Thanks for the response! What type of maintenance and repairs should I be expecting yearly?

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Fluid changes, tires, brakes, and clutch are the most common. Searching the forum for more specific info on these will give you the details. Of course the clutch, tires, and brakes will probably not be needed every year, but fit into that 2-$3k budget over time. Oil change can run about $80-$100 and the coolant is just silly expensive compared to an average car. Search and read up. It's all been covered. There's lots of support here, Pelican parts: Porsche Boxster 986 (1997-2004) / 987 (2005-2008) Technical Articles | Pelican Parts , and rennlist forum

Hi everyone, just got back from checking out the car from the link I posted a few days ago. In the ad it says there is a "crack in rear quarterpanel paint, black tape over it right now to cover it up" To specify the location of this a little better, it is located right above the vent that leads to the engine on the driver side (where the sticker covers in one of the photos below) I'm curious if you guys think a body shop would be able to fix this or if i would have to have that whole area replaced, and what you guys think that would cost.. Thank you in advance!

I'm still pretty new to these cars, but I think that area actually takes some significant stress from the roof mounting points and mechanism. Not that the whole car will split in 1/2, but it needs a qualified professional to evaluate it. You can get lots of opinions here though. I'd stop-drill the cracks and put a stainless doubler over it with sexy looking aircraft rivets every 1/4 inch. Maybe a few bullet hole decals to top it off. (Sure you want opinions?) *I'd suggest starting a new thread rather than continuing here.

Not 100% sure what I'm seeing in the pic but to me it looks like a bunch of bondo under the paint. A cheap repair gone bad. If it is bondo like I'm thinking a body shop will say it needs a quarter panel and you will be looking at a whole lot of money for that type of repair. The body does not support the top so don't worry about that. You could do the same as the owner and sand it down smooth some bondo and spray can paint it. That's cheap and easy and will look that way but on the color you could get away with a lot and from 5 feet away no one will know.

My 2000 Boxster 2.7L has run beautifully for 14yrs. Normal wear and tear but at 95,000 miles, all I had to do this year was replace the AOS ($114 part) which I did myself. In the past SIX years, I've only had to replace the brakes, battery, tires, oil and the water pump and do the normal 90,000 Service. She runs like a champ!

That articles are very timely since I'm thinking to buy boxster.

Jumping in this weekend. 2008 yellow boxster S. 44k miles. 1 owner. offer made today pending PPI from an independent. could be carving up the curves Sunday

I've had my 99' Boxster for about 7 years! it has 160,000 miles on it. I change the oil and tune it up regularly. I've only had to replace the water pump. No problems with MY Boxster!!!

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wow, nimby

Hello board. I am looking into a 2005 Boxster Base with 40,000K miles on it. It is a 1 owner car with the following options. 2005 Porsche Boxster Exterior: Arctic Silver Metallic Interior: Black Standard Leather Warranty Start: June 22, 2005 Additional Equipment 342 Heated Front Seats 446 Wheel Caps with Colored Crest 680 Bose Surround Sound System AN Black Standard Leather M6Z Floor Mats Interior Color P12 Self-Dim Mirrors & Rain Sensor P74 Bi-Xenon Headlamp Package PPB Preferred Package Plus V9 Black Top X1 Arctic Silver Metallic How many have replaced thier IMS vs. just routine maint? If you have replaced your IMS, cost? TIA

I have not at 78k miles Search will give you so much information you will get some ideas From what I understand 2005, while being a 987 model, may still have the M96 motor that the IMS can be replaced without removing and Splitting. Or it could be the M97 motor that has the revised larger IMSB. This bearing appears to be a more robust bearing for street/daily driving good luck

If I had read this post ahead of time. I would never own the Boxster I own today. 1999 Boxster that at 37,xxx miles the engine blew in 2008 and the PO had a new Porsche replacement engine installed. I purchased it in 2013 with 57,xxx miles on it for $12k. I'm super happy I did what I did, even in ignorance. I was LUCKY that the engine had been replaced with the Porsche solution. Granted probably not as good as Jake Raby's but still. It's a pure joy to drive aside from worrying about deer jumping out in front of me or making sure I park way out in the south 40 parking lot so my car doesn't get door dings.

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You're my hero. I have a 1999 as well and that is what I hope to see mine trending towards. 90,xxx and climbing.

jdlmodelt, do you know if it was in fact an IMS failure on your '99? I ask because the '99 has a different IMS design than the years commonly associated with IMS failure. An RMS or slipped sleeve failure would be more likely.

I am need to know about boxster..because i m buying it.!

Wanted to say how good this thread is. I will copy #111 as a procurement aid. It is interesting to me that while the Italians are usually credited with sensuous and striking design,the main reason I want a Boxster is the attraction to the body shape. When I park beside one it beakons strongly. Female curves? I guess so. Having owned Corvair, TR-4, original Lotus Elan, on and on ,the Boxster reliability is a revelation. I was considered marathon man to street the Elan for 58K commuter miles. Do I have any business looking at a low slung roadster at my age....yep. The wife drives the C 63 AMG and I drive ( wait for it) an 85 Fiero and 91 Nissan 2000 (the low end car Porsche could not build?). A used Boxster would be perfect, especially the light 1999 model. Kudos to great people here.

After sleeping on my mebership acceptance here I would like to make a suggestion to those asking about Boxster qualities. There is a widely read thread in DIY here which will take some reading , but worth it. The comments made by flaps10, the author( great job) and other responders do reflect on Boxster engine and maintenance . For what it's worth here are some observations. I remember when pegging the tach was my main objective while driving and it is still good sometimes. But flaps10 found "spun" rod bearings. This should not happen. Someone suggested oil starvation, as in max cornering with WOT. I do not recall any pics of an oil pressure gauge on the dash. It is not so hard to put in a warning buzzer linked to the oil pressure sender. Maybe racers will respond. Next, flalps10 commented on the rod bolts used. The pictures are really shocking. The removed bolts are totally threaded . In most hipo engines rodbolts resemble the ARP ones. So, yes, corner cutting at Porsche did occur. The better to produce the car at its price point and make it available to many. Another shocker is the piston wrist pin retainers. Wire??? Wire??? The last time I saw this was on a JC Whitney VW replacement. Why not circlips? Flaps10 found a foil seal, as in "your coolant jug has not been opened," in a cooland passage. Yikes. Well ya gotta trust, I guess. Finally, I do not know the piston material, but probably cast, making sense for this stock engine, but a risk for those considering turbo or supercharging. Flaps10 did not mention any crack detection done at his engine shop. It would be good to know if any of the parts underwent magnaflux or "zyglo" (aluminum) testing. These comments are meant to coax readers to look around this form and push their knowledge. Lots of good stuff. None of this blather has diminished my great interest in the Boxster. I hope to own one someday.

I am about to roll over 160K Miles in my 98 Boxster. Other than the occasional airbag light I have had no major issues. Drive it hard and often!

Good morning, I am brand new here and have been searching for a Boxter S...I've found 2 of them and could use insight... Boxter 1 is an '05 with 32,500 miles on it. It has all the options on it - including the Chrono, PASM and 19" wheels. It is a manual transmission. It is advertised as always garaged, has all the service records and in excellent condition. The pictures look it as well and the price is reasonable. The question I have is regarding the use of the car...the first owner had it for 5,000 miles (1 year) and second owner for the balance of the time. The carfax that I ran shows a flywheel replacement at both 7,000 miles AND at 14,000 miles and it has had two sets of tires mounted according to records. it seems very strange to have the flywheel replaced twice so early... What advice would you give me regarding this car? Run, ask for more info - what? I will do a PPI on any car, but don't want to invest the extra unless it is a sound car in person and on paper first. Car #2 is an '06 with 62,000 miles on it. It has the automatic w/ triptonic and is very nice looking inside & out. Not many options on it and it has 18" wheels. Drove it twice and enjoyed it, but the second time it had a system fault - return to workshop light show up in the dash...the carfax on this one shows multiple owners and the part about this one that is concerning is that the last 2 owners had it for 7 months to a year and it has ended up at local car dealerships and most recently was traded in at a Porsche dealer and then sent out to auction. I was all ready to send this one in for PPI, but something about it was not adding up.

Just a thinking of i have a boxster it si so nice moment.It is for using the race.I will become a excellent racer.

love my boxster more than my acura nsx

i like the informations based on boxster , i like it very much

Mike's web site is http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages

i like your information based on boxster it is really amazing thanks for providing information

Hi All, I'm new to the Boxster world. I am currently looking at a 2001 Boxster with 68,000 miles, one owner. Seems to be in perfect shape, what should I be looking for in terms of problems and can they be seen before I purchase ie IMS ?

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Did you read this thread? In any event, get a PPI done on any car you're considering.

Hi Everyone, I am seriously considering making an offer on a 2001 Boxster today but before I do I could use some sage advice. I'm new to online forums and sincerely hope I posted this in the right place. I have already researched the car pretty extensively as far as IMS stuff goes but most appraisals and maintenance advice i have read are out of date or possibly not applicable to this age and milage. Here it goes. Details on the car: 2001, Boxster (base) with 16,500 miles always garaged and serviced at BMW/Porsche dealerships. Carfax shows four oil changes over its life which is very good considering the milage (i think). The owner hardly drove the thing and admitted to letting it sit un-started for a long period of time. Before she began driving it again more regularly (10 months ago), she had to have the fuel pump replaced and gas tank flushed (bad gas). At the same time she also had the battery and alternator replaced, had a new set of four tires fitted, and the oil changed. The IMS bearing is original, and the VIN corresponds with a dual row bearing (was excluded from the class action suit) Assuming the car is in fantastic cosmetic condition what a fair value on this car today considering I probably need to replace that IMS bearing thats been sitting in engine oil for years? Should I assume I must replace this IMS immediately even though it is low miles? (I heard "garage queens" have high failure rates somewhere) I am a Mechanical Engineer with access to jack stands, full set of sockets/wrenches and would try and perform most maintenance/repairs myself so long as no repairs came up where i wouldn't be able to order parts and drive the car until putting them in. (it would be my only car). If I own the car for five years and put 45,000 miles on it in that time, what should I budget for maintenance and repairs per year (IMS bearing replacement excluded)? Im trying to figure out how financially crazy/irresponsible I'm being as I don't have a TON of money to throw at a car per year but would still like something fun with an open roof. I wanted 4 seats, but the boxster's two trunks lessens the sacrifice. Thanks, Brian

Take a read through this thread. You seem to have a handle on some of the issues but 4 oil changes in 15 years is not good. I stick with every 5,000 miles or 6 months, which ever comes first. I would highly recommend you get a good PPI with a mechanic who specializes in Porsche water cooled engines. You are right in that garage queens are more susceptible to IMS failure plus other failures. These cars love to be driven regularly. The adage around here is to plan on around $2000/year for maintenance costs. I am sure the car looks good but it really depends on how the car was stored when not in use. It would be hard to give an estimate on its value without more information and pictures. Run a KBB estimate and see what it comes up with. You might start your own thread to get more responses. Others can help with a good mechanic in your area. Good luck and welcome!

Thanks Bruce. I can swing $2000 a year, but wow that is more than I would have guessed for sure. As for the oil changes, I could see that being an issue too, but on the other hand I wasn't sure why oil would go bad from just a change in container (engine vs plastic jug) ...I had read some discussion of oil becoming acidic with age, but couldn't figure out why that would occur if the car was not being run??? not doubting, just looking to learn. Edmunds is $9022 private party, Bluebook is $10,100 private party, NADA dealer retail is $11,300 all for excellent condition. Are these estimates accurate? Their asking price is $11,500, so if the estimators are correct then I should be going for closer to bluebook or Edumnds? I want to have an idea of a fair price for this car considering it's milage, history (not being run for a few years and potential for problems associate with it), assuming it is in excellent cosmetic condition with nothing discovered on a PPI. Bottom line: I don't want to start out in the hole on the first day of ownership because i payed too much. Thanks again Bruce. If anyone else wants to chime in please do, I value your experience. -Brian

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The $2000/year is just a wag quoted around here but it really depends on the prior maintenance history. I am coming up on four years of ownership and have not spent anywhere near that amount. My vehicle was well cared for and I have done the same with regular oil and fluid changes. I also am not using it as a daily driver but it gets regular exercise. You just have to remember that it is a 15 year old car so no matter what, it will need attention. I would honestly say, get a PPI, so that you know what you are getting and if the report shows anything amiss, then you have that for negotiations. Price wise, off the top of my head, I would want to get it closer to $10k. And yes, oil becomes acidic with age and is what seems to cause IMS failures. Oil gets trapped behind the "sealed" bearing and turns acidic. The theory is high revs will push new and hopefully fresh oil into and behind the bearing. That is why many on here will say to drive it like you stole it, i.e., high revs, and regularly.

Hi ,im just getting my porsche boxter s 2000 today ,i try my car and buy it after one road test, my clutch look so so ...but i decide to buy it anyway, driving to my house around 50 milles away, i get the ride of my life, push it to the limit .5000 to.7000 rpm , sound was incredible !!!! ,i think my clutch was already finish, but now im shure !!! lol i get a very good deal on my purchase saving around $6000 cheaper than the market and im felling pride to install the best quality clutch , the 986 FORUM whit you member give me all the information about what to check, what to buy, and i feel little bit like when im driving my porsche few hour before ... same passion i feel from you PORSCHE owner ! thanks you

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Welcome Jean Philippe . . . . Laissez le bon temps rouler!

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Also really depends on how much work you can do yourself and how "smart" you buy parts. I just put a bit about $1500 in the Boxster I just bought. The biggest part of that was replacing the old tires (check the date code on the tires.) The rest was plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, serpentine belt, AOS, HVAC control LCD screen, console bulbs, short shifter, top vent tube, shifter boot, & spare key. Probably have 15 hours of labor in it. If this work had been done at a dealer the cost would be 3 times as much. Yesterday the convertible top link end snapped and I made the mistake of trying to drive the top back down and bent the clamshell. That will run me another $300 to have the clamshell fixed by a paintless dent guy. Add another couple hundred for the newer more reliable top transmissions and I'll probably hit $2k in my first month of ownership. That transmissions weren't absolutely necessary but I wanted the added insurance of a more reliable design. Most of this stuff was neglected and old aged parts and I don't expect to see these kinds of costs yearly.

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Got to agree, how many boxters do you see broken down by the side of the road or on eBay being sold as spares or repair due to engine failure. Im aware it can happen but its still better that driving a 1million % reliable toyota corolla. Peter

I've owned mine for almost 3 months and I'm at just under $700. But I'm not complaining.

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how much should a good PPI cost...is it recommended a dealer performs this? Thanks

I was quoted $300 by the dealer and I paid $150 for an INDY. That disparity will be standard as well for all maintenance going forward.

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I would find a good indie to do it. Check with your local PCA for recommendations. Expect to pay somewhere around $300 at the very least for a decent PPI.

I've gotten quotes on PPIs from two well known, recommend Porsche indies. One was $365, the other was $370 for the "basic" PPI and $560 for a more comprehensive check that includes a leak down compression check... I'm I getting ripped off coming and going???

I second having an indie do it. The dealership would charge a lot more and they have a tendency to recommend a ton of things to "fix". I trust the indies a lot more.

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That is about right. My comment was "$300 at the very least". Better to pay hundreds now rather than thousands later.

Advice for anyone buying a 986 Boxster.... You can find these here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07396JKRM

Was wondering what kinds of opinions you all had on this boxster. I've been looking through this website for hours in trying to make a decision, everything about this car seems reasonable for the price. Thanks! 2002 Porsche Boxster 77K Miles Only - Super Clean!! | eBay

Questions arise whenever I look at a possible purchase. Current prospect, 99 base, 130k miles, comprehensive service records since new; clutch/IMS/water pump/shocks all done at or since 100k; good tires, brakes, top upgraded to glass, grin-inducing test drive. Price is somewhat above KBB, but I can live with that. The issue? CEL P0140, P1117, P1121, P0410, P1411 of course, with the holiday I can't get it to a mechanic so I'm looking for some feedback from folks on here. First, should this be a deal-breaker? I've been reading (yes, search is my friend) and it seems this can be one of many things, but most folks who've had it done in a shop get it cleared for good for less than $1k. If anyone has been through this and has real world numbers to share, I'd be grateful. If those figures are as I suspect, then I think I'm ok moving forward, but happy for any and all insight on that score as well. Oh, and PO has just one key and the electronics on it don't work. It locks the car and starts it, obviously, but no button function. IIRC this is like $500 to replace at the dealer?! Thanks all. One day I'll complete a purchase and can perhaps contribute not just take from this board.

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While the key fob could just need new switches, if reprogramming is required, it's a no from me.. $200 + for that is a warning. The cel codes, oh man, so many things can cause those codes. At best, MAFs and AOS. Worse case, warped heads. Could be as simple as a vacuum leak but, at that mileage, I'd expect better. PASS.

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Thanks Robert. It was indeed a pass. Picked up an 03 base after walking on that one, and driving it happily since.

Boxsters are fun and pretty easy to work on. I’m assuming most on this site are DIY folks (no problem if you’re not) so don’t be scared to get your hands dirty. Like my father always says “Just google it son. YouTube already tells you how to do it”. He’s kind of right... Dealer oil change: $289.99 “special deal for service b” DIY: $60 ish. 10 qt full syn Mobile 1 @Walmart and K&N filter or Mann from Amazon. Drive belt replacement @ dealer: $699 DIY: $20.64 from Amazon and took me 50 minutes and beer the first time and 30 minutes no beer the second time on my fathers Boxster. Front and rear brakes @dealer $1,199 WTH??? DIY: ebay $42 front and rear... 30-45 minutes This can all be done with basic tools from Harbor Freight or local tool store. $100 @ Harbor Freight goes a long way!

The problem is finding a good dealer that you can trust to buy a used Porsche. I prefer independent dealers like this one https://www.dupontautocentre.com/used-porsche / and they had a 986 on their site but it sold Has anyone imported one from the States> I am in Canada.

The reference in the OP's posting is outdated. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages

Hi, new poster, thinking about buying a 1999 Boxster. It's at 156k miles on the car, IMS blew the motor at 41k, so 115k on the engine. Owner has full service records, priced at $6000. Seems like about the right price to me, but I figured I should check here to see if any of that raises a red flag for the more experienced Porsche owners here. Thanks.

Any idea when the motor was installed or its source (Porsche remanufactured or just from a wreck)? Any idea what shape the suspension is in? Parts should be wearing out at about that mileage but it all depends on what services were done to maintain the car. In theory, reasonable price, at least check that everything works. If a local Porsche water cooled engine mechanic is available see if the seller will permit the mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection. Or maybe talk to the shop that maintains the car. Any notes on things needed on the last bill?.

I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow, those are all good suggestions, thanks. Motor was from Porsche. Guy I'd be buying from is the second owner.

I just sold 1974 914 3.2 Carrera 1987 engine conversion.It had almost all the changes made to I including hydraulic clutch. Since I am getting to the age where it is hard to get underneath it, I sold the 914 and purchased a 2002 Boxster S with 134,000 miles and owned by long time Porsche members. They let me review records over the entire history (2-3 owners before me) including showing the IMS being change at 84-85,000 miles. Thread review shows Jake Rabey said change the IMS every 75,000 miles since the one in the car was LN Engeering ceramic one. The infomation resulting in dropping the transmission, pulling the clutch, removing the flywheel, etc. I always plan on doing things such as this when evidence is there to support it. found items that were marginal such as how the old INS had been installed, flywheel showing signs of future problems, clutch and pressure plate including system had extended life left. Mechanic also read through the records to verify major fault items such as water pump, servicing, etc I put in a direct oil feed system including the bearing since this the type of bearing I am use to coming from commercial and general aviation. I would like to see a bearing similar to the front immediate shaft. Maybe later, but now I have complete confidence of driving it extended distances. Oil will go to higher grade/ weight full synthetic 5W40 and a brand having a higher level of phosphorus, etc 1100-1200 parts per million. Oil changes every 3000 miles or every three months; warmup for 1-2 minutes, drive accordingly until the engine is at running temp and drive it hard and within operating characteristics but never thrashing the car or going over limits; I do not use the car for very short driving distances, just intermediate driving to long distance driving; all Porsche events but not racing/auto-X; remember I sold a 914 because I essentially cannot do the heavy type building/maintenance. Where did I find all the above and fit it to my situation? It comes from all the threads on this board and its members. I know I have extended life in my car , I can work on it within my limits, have very good idea when to turn it over to a trusted indie, and proper servicing intervals, etc. New to the Boxster but "OLD" Porsche-a-file. Lot's to learn and great driving experiences ahead!

My 1999 Boxster was recently diagnosed with the apparently very common intermediate shaft failure (IMS failure). The big surprise came when I heard the only way to fix this, is a complete engine replacement; $12000 for the part alone! Add the hours needed to put it in, and this is more then the cars current value. The car has 62000 miles on it and had every scheduled service, done by Porsche certified shops. When I approached Porsche to help me out, they had a good laugh and told me that the warranty expired 6 years ago. Even after I pointed to the "Implied Warranty of Merchantability and Fitness of Purpose" regulation in this country, and told them that nobody would buy a car knowing that it's engine will disintegrate after 62000 miles, they had nothing to say. I guess my fault for trying to keep the car in good shape and not driving it enough so that the failure would occur within the warranty period.

Just as an FYI - I just bought a 1999 Boxster Base with 130k miles. Excellent condition, all service records, strong motor, new tires. Paid the $150 pre-purchase inspection at my local indy shop. They said it was a great deal for $5,800.00. The IMS bearing had not gone out yet and probably wouldn't. I don't like to play Russian Roulette so I bought it and took it straight to the shop for, new clutch, IMS bearing, oil separator (while they had everything apart), passenger window actuator, CV joint clamps, battery, oil change and A/C service. Came to a little under $4,000.00 but now I have a dependable, kick-in-the-pants Porsche to rip around in for around $10,000.00. I'll probably need new shocks soon but you really can't put a price on fun.. in my book this is a lot of fun for the buck!

Quotes source post: 598667

Nice looking boxster, your rear sppoiler needs adjusting on the right hand side, it looks to be sitting up a bit.

HELP!! I have been searching for months for a Boxster to get before my 30th birthday. I found one with only a week left. Here is the dilemma: 2001 Red Boxster S , 80,000 miles, $7000. Just had the IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, RMS, new transmission mounts and new left side axle, and Oil change for $4,454 at a local (and reputable) indy shop. Parts $3045.55 and Labor $1078 . Current owner also upgraded the audio with some decent, but basic stuff. My issue: REBUILT TITLE from a total loss accident in 2010. Known issues: It needs new front tie-rods, alignment, driver-side window motor or regulator needs replacing, replacement washer reservoir, a major cleaning and detailing (cobwebs and leaves in the forward boot), convertible motor sounds like a dinosaur scream. It appears the front bumper cover is also sagging. And the rest is cosmetic. Would you buy this for $6000-$7000? If not, what would you pay? Is the afore mentioned repair cost a fair market repair cost?

Quotes source post: 601779

I wouldn't say that you need to steer clear of it, but that does seem a bit high for a rebuilt title. None of the remaining repairs you need to do are very difficult/expensive, but it's still a burden to take on with a new car. The IMS is nice, but considering the amount of work that's been done, it would be kind of sad if it hadn't been. I certainly wouldn't pay 7 for it, and even 6 seems high. I think 5ish would be just fine though, since it is an S.

Quotes source posts: 601779, 601870

Strange that the seller would put in so much money in the IMS etc but neglect the rest, including the basics of just cleaning it up. 5 to 6K is probably about right but I would have it looked over by another mechanic to make sure there aren’t any more “known” issues. Still, $6K for a car with the IMS done is not a bad deal as long as the rest is minor. A heckuv a car for that amount of money.

Quotes source post: 601779

Honestly, in great condition with clear title, that car's worth $9000. In great condition with rebuilt title, it's worth $5500. Condition as described? $4000. But he'll never let it go for that. He'll wait until someone comes along that doesn't do as much homework as you have, and he'll settle for $5200. The question in my mind is this: it sounds like you've set yourself a goal of sorts, with a timeline. What's that worth to ya? $1200? It would be to me.... All. Day. Long. I'd pay him $5200, knowing I'm paying $1200 more than I should, because the goal meant something more than 'have I found the right car yet', Y'know? Eyes wide open. You're not getting screwed if you make the decision knowing all the facts. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Quotes source post: 601879

Guys I really appreciate the advice! The local shop I use did a check on it and gave me the information for the tie rods. They said the closer to $5000 I can get it the better. The car had new tires and an alignment at 69k on the odometer, and now has a bent tie rod and play at 80k miles. They think the current owner drove over something significant which caused the rear axle to break and the front tie rod issue. The owner has not indicated that. I haggled him down to $6000 today, and I agree with M thataytag that the $1000 to complete the goal is worth it. Now just have to complete the purchase. Oh yes, and it dies have Carrera wheels, which makes me emotional just thinking about.

Quotes source post: 601908

Many here will disagree with me on this, but in my opinion, if this isn't an emotionally driven purchase, then you haven't found the right car, Haha. Go get it! Send pics ! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Quotes source post: 601911

No, you are absolutely correct. In fact, if someone buys a car while knowing they could possibly get a better deal, that just proves that their heart is in it.

Any clue what that groan is in the convertible top? I have been researching and most describe a popping sound, not a groan so I have not been able to identify it. Haven't purchased it yet due to the Hurricane that is coming, waiting until after.

Quotes source post: 602032

My guess would be that the motor could be going out, or that a cable or gearbox is causing it to load up more than usual. Mine started to groan a little before one of the cables went out.

It can also be the track that the clamshell runs in when going up and down. Try lubricating it with some lithium grease. There is one on each side, so I should have written tracks.

Quotes source post: 602111

I GOT IT! I was able to get his price from $7000 to $5000, so I picked it up yesterday and registered it. I feel a lot better about the decision at that price. And Anker, you were correct, some grease in the tracks and the groan went away. I'm seeing a lot of little issues throughout, but so far nothing that cant be fixed. I need the tie rods and alignment done, which will be a shop job for now. It also needs an oil change and tune up. I'm going to have to push the tune up off until I can get the parts and do it myself. I will post some pictures later, mobile site doesn't allow photo posting.

Quotes source post: 602662

Well done! Can't wait to see it! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Just moved my buying question here: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/76483-high-mileage-engine-vs-low-mileage-parts.html

Hi All Looking to pick up a used boxster. I finally found a very nice example, well sorted and no issues at the moment. However it is a 1997 with 75k (and stick, of course!) Is there any reason to avoid the '97 model? Or would it be a better choice considering the double row IMS? I somehow feel first year cars are not great, but I am curious to see what others think.

Quotes source post: 619967

The 97 has a double row IMS bearing. The single row came out later. 97's are susceptible to other woes like cylinder wall d chunks.

I have owned many cars, my first was a 65 mustang and many VW’s which drove me nuts with maintenance. Last year my cancer required me to drive 150 miles a day on a treacherous but beautiful mountain road in order to get radiation therapy. I bought a 2002 Boxter and drove it hard every day for a month and a half. My local mechanic changed the plugs, put in new front brakes and changed all fluids. This car was so fun to drive and got me thru a rough patch so I rewarded it with a new top with a glass back window. I’m keeping it. I have a blast downshifting into corners and driving with the top down on our scenic highways. Without all of the neigh sayers, I could never afford to buy this car or keep it. It cost me 1 month income. All of the American convertibles that I looked at for almost 2 times the price were beat to **************** and drove the same. Thanks again for the negative posts, keep it up. I’ll keep my Porsche.

Quotes source post: 633371

Tend to agree. Sometimes the risks are overstated. I skipped the PPI since it didn't make sense for a 10k car. This thing is a blast to drive and easy to work on too. Glad you're enjoying yours!

Quotes source post: 619967

I think the first year 1997's are GREAT! I have a 1998, doubt there is much difference, love it. The earlier Boxsters are less complicated cars than later Boxsters. I replaced the LCD screen on the "climate control" that was ruined from age using the 914rubber.com kit, easy and looks great! Replaced the top with one with a glass rear window. New tires. The earliest cars are not known for the IMS problem. If you can afford it get it replaced but otherwise check the oil like a hawk for metal when you change it (do change it, even water Porsches are OIL cooled), otherwise wait until you need a new clutch or the rear main seal starts leaking oil and needs replacement (all 911's and Boxsters leak at the RMS eventually, easy fix but you have to put the transaxle to get to it). I bought mine for less than $6k off of Ebay with 116k miles, including shipping from Texas. Turned out to be a winner. They are gorgeous cars, very nice curves, very low, fast, handle great, but realize they have no storage inside at all and only two seats, they are a REAL sports car. I can go to COSTCO and put several bags of groceries in front and back trunks and driver's seat if necessary but not too many bundles of paper towels! But I love mine. I've owned many, many 356's, 911's, 912's and my early Boxster is by far the most value and performance for the money, it is at least as fast as my 1987 Porsche 911 3.2 coupe, only my 1982 930 Turbo was faster and that car was really FAST! The resale value on these cars is clearly terrible and I guess it's because of the IMS. Maybe it's because Porsche parts are expensive but I've been used to that for decades. And surprisingly the just liability insurance is dirt cheap for my 67 years old!

Quotes source post: 633371

Good luck in dealing with your cancer.

1998 Base differs from 1997 in two important areas: 18” wheel option with rear chassis reinforced to accept new wheels. Rear body structural change included redesigned wheel wells and coil spring mounts, lower engine compartment bulkhead, rear wall crossmember and rear axle mount reinforcements. Side air bags standard (not available in ’97.)

Quotes source post: 649904

If a car can produce a giggle or a smile. Keep it. Be well. Tom

Hey everyone! I hope this is the thread for this post. I have recently moved to California to pursue the American dream and what better car to do that with than the 986. Trying to find one and have one I’m quite keen on with the following specs: 85k, ims changed, new water pump, white smoke from the exhaust occasionally, and the following codes: P0157, P0132, P0154, P1541 I’m thinking changing the oxygen sensors would clear those errors and maybe the smoke issue as well? Any thoughts on the overall car condition? Thanks a million in advance!!

Hambone, it is not uncommon to have that smoke, but it could be the AOS. At that mileage, if it hasn't been changed, you might do so. The only other caution I would have is if the coolant tank hasn't been replaced already, I would. It's the only thing that ever stranded me. The Germans design and build terrific cars, but make terrible plastics. And this isn't limited to Porsche; BMW has the same problems with the entire cooling system! Solid, sweet cars!

hey! Go Ahead!

Did you get that?

Checking out a 986 - I was shown service receipts that showed the IMS Solution Kit by LN Engr, done in 2018. The line item shows a list price of $699.95. Looking at the LN site they are selling the kit for $1,800, almost triple the price? Did prices really increase by that much? IMS Bearing Update Kit - Dual Row 106 08 4 1.00 699.95 699.95

Hi Everyone, Just posting to let people browsing that I listed my boxster with a 911 engine swap (3.4L) in the Boxsters and Cayman Cars for Sale or Wanted section.