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YOUR RESEARCHNew to 996’s - Ocean Blue 996.1 C2
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valve
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Suggestion
I'm hoping that I'll be able to adjust the damping down enough to make them compliant whilst still giving a slightly lower ride height and a good B-road set-up.
Leading evidence: 'valve' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'valve' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust damping down enough' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Install koni special actives and h&r lowering springs
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I fitted Koni Special Actives and H&R lowering springs to my C4S earlier this year.
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In fact mine had the Sport Designs fitted when I bought it and I also swapped to a set of the original Technology hollow spokes!
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There was an AC leak, so replaced both condensers and various O rings.
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Adjust damping down enough
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Suggestion
I'm hoping that I'll be able to adjust the damping down enough to make them compliant whilst still giving a slightly lower ride height and a good B-road set-up.
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Suggestion · Original poster
PS2’s fitted (period correct, plus I couldn’t get PS4’s in the sizes I wanted…), trial fitted (I wanted to check clearance against the standard shocks with the wider wheel and 235 vs 225…we’re just about fine:
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Morning all.
Unfortunately, my 981 GTS was stolen off the driveway at the beginning of the month, not recovered and declared as a total loss.
RIP etc.
The 981 had a bit of a unicorn spec (buckets, X73, etc), and with prices of 981’s climbing (combined with
insurance
refusing to recognise this, nor spec…), I decided that my 981 journey was complete and I wouldn’t be replacing it with another one.
With a semi-recent job change, I’m doing far less miles too. I’ve had a hankering for a modern classic for a while, enjoyed Porsche ownership and the surrounding community/events, so a 996 became the target next car.
I was originally drawn to a C4S. I still think they’re one of the best looking 911’s ever made, and I’d wager that good examples will continue to rise proportionately to the way that 996 Turbos are.
However, I’ve always been drawn to early 996’s. I like that the 3.4’s are apparently less borkable, and then purist in me like’s the idea of cable throttle, with the added plus that they are lighter than the C4S. I’m also a RWD fan.
The downside of hunting for an early 996 is that they aren’t exactly ten a penny, especially when nerds like me decide that they want a specific spec.
Non-negotiables:
97-99 car
C2
Manual
Coupe
No aero kit
Negotiables:
Factory LSD a plus
Non-sunroof model
No Graphite Grey interior.
I was away for a few week on holiday after the car was stolen, and had time to begin a proper hunt. Emailed no less than 13 Porsche specialists (lol) and dealers to keep a look out for a car, set alerts on all of our favourite sites. I was in no rush and prepared to wait for the right car, but I know myself and my impulsive nature too well…
A notification from C&C on a Monday morning showing a car 200 miles away meant impulsive took over. Call with the seller, video walk around, folder whatsapped over…placed a deposit and agreed to collect a few days later.
1998 C2
Ocean Blue / Space Grey
72k miles
Factory LSD
Sunroof (we have to make compromises)
Porsche PCCM+ upgrade (CarPlay)
Full suspension refresh 3-4k miles ago
Gearbox rebuild 12 months ago
It’s a lovely car, and thankfully the 200 miles drive back was largely boring and uneventful.
I also have some plans, the (almost) first point of call is to address two things I’ve noticed that need sorting:
- bit of a creak from the OS front at slow speeds. Feels/sounds like a t/r end.
- increased NVH at idle. I’m convinced it isn’t a misfire/combustion related; the rev counter is arrow straight, its constant rather than intermittent,it goes away with the smallest bit of throttle - to me it points to engine mounts.
I also found a bit of a snagging list from an inspection last year in the bible of paperwork:
The wrong bolts on the engine mounts hopefully lean into my NVH issue theory.
The coolant items are a little bit more concerning. I know it’s a case of dropping the engine to get a replacement tank in if it’s needed…
With the above in mind, it’s booked into my local specialist in a couple of weeks to have a poke about.
Above, I said ‘almost’ re the first point of call. It’s because I’m an impulsive idiot and had already decided that the wheels needed changing.
I’m a massive fan of Turbo Twists, IMO they’re one of the all time great wheel designs. So within 24 hours of picking the car up I’d already sourced and picked up a set:
(Passing these off as additional gym weights to my wife was unsuccessful)
For those of you who care, the rears are genuine 993 Turbo hollow spokes, so 10J rather than 11J as seen on the wider bodied 996T/C4S. The fronts are slightly more interesting; the seller got them from RH years ago to run 8.5J rather than 8J (same size as a 996 GT3 I’m lead to believe), and even had them refurbished to have the outer rim machined in to match the OEM Porsche wheels. So, they’re not genuine, but light and look identical, with a wider footprint. I also like oddities like this.
PS2’s fitted (period correct, plus I couldn’t get PS4’s in the sizes I wanted…), trial fitted (I wanted to check clearance against the standard shocks with the wider wheel and 235 vs 225…we’re just about fine:
Super happy.
Wheels are now off as I need to seal them, plus I’ve ordered the disproportionately expensive centre caps (man mathed against the cost of the wheels) and a 12mm spacer for the rear to match the additional extra poke of the front.
Other plans:
Audio.
The drive home from Manchester concluded that PCCM+ is great, but the standard speakers (despite having the hi-fi upgrade) are awful.
Diving into a bit of an audio rabbit hole one evening, I ended up buying:
4 x Hertz 100.3 coaxials (replaces the dash/rear speakers and tweeters)
Super_paulie adaptors
Adaptor cables
From what I understand, the standard door woofers become noticeably better when the other speakers are upgraded, I assume possibly clashing frequencies/phasing with the original paper Nokia units, so I’ve decided to hold off replacing those.
Suspension.
Despite the dampers looking fresh, suspension has moved on it the past 28 years.
I was all set for buying a set of Ohlins R+T, but doing some digging, it seems that upgrading the dampers + a set of spring and decent geo may be better suited to my use case (complaint road car, no track).
I want to get the wheels on and go for a drive before committing, if there’s no catching/rubbing of the wider wheels against the standard suspension, I’ll look at the Koni Actives plus H+R springs that appear to be tried and tested by 996 owners. If they catch, I’ll order the Ohlins.
However, I’ve read conflicting opinions on whether or not Actives work/are designed to work with lowering springs…can anyone confirm this?
Following this, ARB’s.
I’ve also had an idea regarding a valved exhaust. With PSE not being available on the .1’s, I have button blanks and some smart friends…one for winter.
-
It appears this has been a bit of a brain dump/ramble, so if you’ve got this far, thank you for reading my nonsense.
As a TL
R - bought a 996, want to get it to feel and sound like it could be a newer Porsche whilst still retaining all of the 996 character which makes it so brilliant to drive.
Cheers!
Great looking car, the original F/R ambers look fantastic on the blue! I'm personally a fan of the Sport Design wheels but 18" TT's are a close second.
Regarding the cooling system items, a replacement updated cap is an easy fix, the coolant tank not so much. Tanks for the early cars have become harder to source and expensive. If it's not leaking yet keep an eye on it, but probably a good idea to start looking for one. I personally wouldn't install an updated cap yet either if all is good.
The tank on my '98 eventually split and required replacement. I did the work myself but have a good selection of tools and lifting devices to make it easier. I also replaced all the coolant hoses due to age in the engine compartment while I had the system drained. One of the hoses to the tank is updated requiring an updated pipe as well (moves the rubber hose further away from the exhaust). Something to have checked during inspection.
Thanks all. And yes, I’m a fan of ambers/gingercators (I even put US spec side-repeaters on my previous 981..)
Appreciate the heads up! It’s off to Paul at Purely9 on the 7th for a poke about, so I’ll report back.
I’ll get looking for a tank, anything preventative maintenance-wise I’m all ears.
Came here to say exactly this! Have just started a post to share my own experience from this weekend, hopefully it helps with the sort of thing to look out for.
In around the suspension top mounts can get a bit ginger too, but that tends to be fairly surface level. May as well address it though if you’re getting the wire wheel and spray cans out anyway.
Looking forward to following this build lovely looking motor. A bit bias but would look beauty with an aero kit on
I’m looking at the exact same speaker setup as you have mentioned in done a bi of research and seems to be the best way forward. I’m also considering doing the door card speakers too depending on what it sounds like with the others done first. Just need to find somone who make some adaptor plates for the front door cards
My list just kept getting bigger and bigger
carbon roof next for mine give my thread a follow
Thanks all.
@ryanwright91
- great looking car. I really like aero kits, but prefer the lines on early cars without, personal preference!
Couple of weekend updates…
Firstly, speaker update.
Started getting the backs out:
Attached adapters:
Then realised I’d ordered/been sent the wrong harness, so quick trip to Halfords to pick up some 2A spades to crimp on:
Repeat with the fronts, and all fitted. Appreciate you can’t hear a photo, so here’s a thumbs up:
It’s SO much better than standard, the mids/highs are far less muddy. I like to tinker, so no doubt will play around with the door woofers and amp at some point, but it’s definitely a worthwhile upgrade.
Also had a little setback:
Wheels were sealed with G5 and cured overnight. Fresh centre caps ready to go:
12mm spacer added to the rear to match the wider fronts’ additional ‘poke’:
Put a front on…
…and bollocks. New tyre isn’t holding air.
Off they come again. Bank Holiday so the tyre place isn’t open, and to top it off I think I left my compressor in the 981’s frunk…
I have a feeling the culprit is the valve. We had a bit of fuckery when fitting the tyres, as of the front wheels only had a circa 8.5mm valve hole, compared to the 11ish on the other one, meaning we couldn’t fit a ‘normal’ valve. My spare front also has the smaller hole, odd. So the tyre place found something in an old desk somewhere that fits…but it doesn’t look like it’s worked.
I’ve ordered a 993 thin valve from D911 which is suited to hollow spoke wheels, hopefully that solves it.
-
Thanks for the advice on rust
@Pernicketybert
and
@Wennypies
- I’ll have my specialist take a look next week for anything disconcerting.
Great introduction to what looks a lovely car. I also sought out an early non-aero Carrera. In fact mine had the Sport Designs fitted when I bought it and I also swapped to a set of the original Technology hollow spokes! I love the clean lines of the early base cars on twists.
Look forward to seeing more updates.
Cool, if you go for the Hertz just remember to order adapter cables with two 2A spades to save you messing around with cutting/crimping.
Couple of small things:
- if you have the HiFi option from factory, the original tweeters are glued in, just use a Stanley to cut through the blobs.
- I had to do a minor amount of surgery on the insulation behind the rear speakers to make them fit, wasn’t deep enough otherwise.
- the two torx screws on the dash speakers are a pain to get to due to the windscreen. I used an adjustable wrench + Torx bit and thought I’d have to call Gavin at Autoglass every turn. Have since ordered a mini socket set.
Thanks mate. I recognise your car from Fairmile, it’s lovely!
Don’t mind admitting that I was trying to find you at the August meet - before I picked mine up - to see if you wanted to sell it
Cheers Luke, that Fairmile meet was the busiest I've been to - I was struggling to find those that I know! Hoping to get along to September's too, let me know if you go as I'd love to compare your speaker set-up with mine which is a cheap Pioneer headunit and original non-door-speaker setup. Something I'd like to improve over winter.
Ian
I have the 490 sound system which I think is the Nokia set up
I was going to order these to go on the cables for the wiring
https://ebay.io/m/E7fe9n
Videos I have seen the front dash ones are a pain to get to but I’ll use a little socket set and hope I don’t smash my windscreen
Yep, was manic! So long as it’s not on axle stands as I’ve decided to ‘play’, I’ll be there; very little representation from 996’s with ambers so I need to help up that. I’ll give you a shout closer to the date mate, would be good to have a poke around yours properly.
Hmm, just by eye the female connector on the end of the speaker wire looks too small (same issue I had).
It’s no biggie if you have a crimping tool, just need the correct female (the positive wire has the correct size). I’m an idiot when it comes to wiring and managed it.
All the above is specifically for the Hertz 100.3 terminals btw, can’t say for other speakers.
And yes, you’ll be fine with a mini socket set. Far less sketchy than my ham fisted approach:
Hi Luke, we also chatted at the Fairmile & on Insta a bit. Glad to see you cracking on with making your new car your own.
I fitted Koni Special Actives and H&R lowering springs to my C4S earlier this year. Honestly I can’t say I’d recommend the combo.. it was perfectly fine for my Euro trip this summer, but back in the UK it’s too hard for our rough roads. Sure it corners better, but I’d give some of that up in exchange for more bump compliance. The dampers seem good and controlled, so I’d perhaps look at pairing them with some standard or -10mm springs.
Anyway, just a personal opinion. I have read others that are happy with them though.
Joe
Hello mate.
Interesting re: suspension! I trust your opinion so will do some further digging. Will likely give CG a call tomorrow to see what the latest is with their 996.1 kit, I know it’s been in development for a while.
My benchmark is the X73 I had in the 981, it had a great balance between compliance/performance. It was hasher than the 996 (standard), but incredibly well damped.
I contacted CG this week no eta on .1 c2 kit from them.
I’ve been looking at this for a while, I’m leaning towards a quality coil over kit you then get all the adjustments you need ride height they can be revalved if really needed spring weights changed etc.
with damper and spring you fit them and that’s it if they don’t work for you it’s kinda tough.
I’ve spent way too much time thinking this over, and have gone from coilovers > but my dampers are nearly new > springs > but I need better dampers > massive exploration of damper/spring combos >…and now back at researching coilovers again.
I’ve had lots of cars on lots of different setups, and I’m a bit torn as what to do.
I’m parking it until next week after it’s gone for a health check, will make a call after that.
Funnily enough, I had a read of your project thread this morning. Excellent work, although you’ve spurred me on to actually get the arch liners out this weekend to see what I’m faced with.
I have new M030 shocks with H&R springs and it's superb for me. I daily drive mine (about 1200 miles a month) and I have no complaints. I drive it really hard and it always stays composed. This is combined with M030 anti-roll bars.
I had standard shocks with Eibach springs on a previous 996 and that was still pretty decent but a bit bouncy and soft - especially on track.
That’s good to know Dave, thank you. I’ve written eibachs off due to them looking too low at the rear.
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In considerably less exciting chat, I’ve started replacing anything which no longer stays up by itself.
New frunk and engine lid struts fitted.
Made great use of my extendable wisteria chopping pole. I would post more pictures, but you have better things to see.
I then noticed that the plastic behind the front bumper was a rather fetching shade of silver, so applied some G4. It’s a bit far gone so will add that on the ‘sort later’ list, but it’s an improvement.
I assume that this is the 911 content that people sign up for, but I’ve committed to doing an owners diary now, so apologies in advance.
More interesting ways of wasting money to follow.
I have Koni Special Actives and H&R springs with a 30mm drop on my '99 C2, and standard 18 inch tyre sizes (Michelin PS4). No issues at all with this set up. It handles as it should, it rides absolutely comfortably, no tyre rub but the roads where I live (southern Sweden) are in good nick. I was over in England last summer. No issues with the Norfolk roads, but in North Oxfordshire no fun at all! Forget any 996 with any suspension set up, an SUV is what was needed there. To be honest I also consider my BMW 320d on 19s to have a harsher ride than my 996 with the set up I have.
In conclusion, the polarized opinions on this set up (it works / it doesn't work) may come down the condition of the roads local to you
.
Interesting to hear people's feedback on the Koni Special Actives + H&R set-up. I have got Koni Sport & H&R kit ready to go on, once I've managed to gradually get together the rest of the suspension arms to complete a full refresh. I'm currently running M030 that was fitted about 10 yrs ago, and find it over-damped and pretty crashy.
I'm hoping that I'll be able to adjust the damping down enough to make them compliant whilst still giving a slightly lower ride height and a good B-road set-up. Will feedback once I've managed to get it all fitted.
Imagine spending a disproportionate amount on plastic centre caps, and then taking sandpaper to one as it wouldn’t seat correctly in your refurbed wheels.
Yep. Worked though.
Anyway, in a thread which has been largely been about one man’s battle to fit wheels, they’re on now.
Off to Purely9 for some snagging tomorrow, and then back to beating myself up about suspension options.
Back from Purely9, Paul was great as usual.
Went in with two things I’d picked up on
- NVH at idle
- small creak from the front OS
All bushes checked from creak Inc steering rack, couldn’t replicate, and now it’s magic’d itself better. I’ll keep an ear out.
In terms of the NVH, apparently it’s no different to other 3.4’s. He worked at Porsche when they were sold new, and people would try to get this ‘fixed’ under warranty.
So the two ‘issues’ I had…weren’t issues.
I did, however, instruct him to have a thorough check around the car.
There was an AC leak, so replaced both condensers and various O rings. As well as a few little bits:
Other than that, clean bill of health - which is a relief.
Next up, suspension; once I finally settle on what I want.
Back to the suspension rabbit hole. I almost ordered Ohlins R&T today, but after some research found that people tend to think that the standard 60/120 rates are too harsh for UK roads.
I’ve seen people say that CG recommended 40/80 Eibach springs, but that goes against Ohlins spec of -10% reduction or else they need to be revalved.
So I’ve done what I should have done at the beginning and emailed CG for some advice. I’d be really keen to understand how far they are to releasing their 996 C2 kit.
Quite a lot of nonsense for someone who wants their road car a bit lower.
Iv had mine on over a year now covered about 6k miles adjustable and come with camber plates and can set the ride firmness
For the money they have got to be the best bang for buck let’s say if you either want a full refresh of suspension
You want to lower your car
You want a fast road /track set up
They seem to do any of the above your wanting get good wraps off the rest of the 996 aero owners too who either daily/weekend/track their cars
Interesting Ryan, seen you’ve mentioned them before.
They’re definitely priced towards the lower end of the coilover market which naturally makes me more skeptical, but will do some research! Glad to hear you’re getting on well with them.
I think they drive really well as they are so I’m reluctant to mess that up.
That being said, my observation of mine it lacks high speed compression damping, sharp bumps send quite a crash through the chassis, and when you push on it could do with a little more control generally, I imagine a full refresh of all mounts bushes and dampers would see great results.
As always suspension is a subjective subject it’s always a balance and depends what you want from the car. Weve come along way since it was designed so there has to be improvements with modern tech.
Werk96 have their KW set up, how suitable that is to UK roads ?
The electronic adjustable systems Nitron Tractive have developed have really taken pace last few years if budget allows if gives you great control over adjustments.
I personally come back to a decent rebuildable coilover design every time, I’m quite happy fiddling making manual adjustments, that’s the way I’ll go when the time comes.
Car looks great! A non-aero, early C2 is just about as good as the 996 experience can be. And btw, the sunroof is actually a bonus, not a compromise
Re suspension, a lot of us have been down the rabbit hole with our cars, and our previous cars over the years. My advice would be to try and get a drive in other cars that have the options you’re considering. Suspension is surprisingly personal, and one person’s idea of what is good/soft/crashy etc may not align with yours. Stick with the well known/proven brands if going with coilovers too.
This first sentence really sums it up.
I got myself into such a rabbit hole with this, finding different spring rates, contacting Eibach and D Faulkner for availability…
And then decided it’s completely overkill for what I need. I’m not planning to track the car, and crucially, to your point, it drives really nicely as it is and I don’t want to really take away the 996 character.
So I’ve done a bit of a u turn and gone back to plan A and ordered some Koni SA’s and H&R springs.
It seems a well trodden path, I think it was CG go to set up for a long while ..
I seem to remember talk of a thicker spring seat/perch ? Maybe in the rear ?
Correct, I ordered a pair of 6.5mm perches too.
I was tempted to also pick up some thicker ARB’s at the same, but I’m in no rush, and think it’s more interesting to see how the car feels with the damper/spring combo first.
I’ve also just mentally saved myself about £2k, so now man mathing myself into other ways to spend it
Decided to tackle my headlights yesterday. Not 100%…but far better than they were:
Took the car out for a blast this morning to a local PCGB meet, it really is a lovely thing to drive on the right roads, Surrey Hills was todays flavour:
Suspension should be with me next week, will aim to get it fitted asap.
I know I'm biased but what a cracking looking car, that last picture really shows the beauty of a 996 next to newer cars, I can't imagine anyone who didn't wish they were going home in the 996.
They're aging very very well.
Ah the suspension debacle.
So I ordered Koni’s + H&R’s. I then had another 996 owner (like Joe earlier) message to say they weren’t impressed with the Koni’s.
Coupled with the fact that my B4’s are nearly new, I decided to stick with them and the H&R’s to see how we get on.
Picked up from the garage this evening. They also replaced a rear arm as one was seized when doing the tracking.
Couple of quick pictures from the drive home:
Immediate thoughts, it’s 90% as compliant as standard, but definitely feels more planted. Will get it out for a proper drive at the weekend.
Do the H&R's genuinely drop the car ~35mm?
The issue I'm finding is finding a spring set that only lowers perhaps ~10-15mm. I drive a lot of rural roads, and really dont want a car that any lower. Its as much looks as anything.
I think H&R rate it to 30mm, looks about right.
Before:
After:
(Flipped the photo for consistency, I didn’t remove the rear wiper…)
For a smaller drop, maybe m030 would be the best bet?
I have M030 on mine and the drop looks similar to your last pic. I had to replace the shocks a few years ago and went with the Bilstein B4s. Ride quality is fantastic, so I won't be doing anything to it apart from changing some of the rear suspension arms this coming winter.
Nice color, same as mine!
Sorry, I’m a bit late to the party. I have Ohlins Road & Track on mine, along with some other changes to sort the geometry issues you get when reducing the ride height. People tend to be scared of the spring rate, but don’t necessarily realise that most of the perceived ride quality comes from the damper. Yes it’s a bit hard at very low speed, but once you get a rhythm up and the dampers start working, it’s very competent and quite compliant. Give me a shout if you ever feel like going in that direction, you need to experience them really to make your mind up for yourself.
Thanks for the feedback above - I read that the ride height can be tweaked using spring cup spacers (US spec?), perhaps only relevant to the front. The thicker spacers allowing perhaps ~8mm or so height adjustment. That sort of tweak plus the 30mm drop from the like of the H&R or MO30 springs, would be about right for me
The ride height looks spot-on with just the H&R springs. Did you need to use the 6.5mm spring perches front or rear?
I also seem to recall you're Surrey way, so wondered who you're using to do the work and what they charged to fit the springs + alignment?
Good point, I’ve not checked. I supplied the 6.5’s so I’ll see whether they used them.
Yep, Surrey. I used somewhere local who get good reviews for geo, and got them to fit. I won’t mention their name as, despite the work completed being good, I feel they charged an extortionate rate for essentially 4 springs and a rear arm to be fitted. More fool me for not getting a quote beforehand!
all the more reason to name them - if they did a job you were happy with others can have the benefit of their skills but also your wisdom that any work needs agreeing for before hand............
That's the experience I've had with servicing work in Surrey! I used to service by Cayman R with GT One as they were super local to me, and whilst the service was always good, when I got a quote for £1400 for a major service on the 996 I started looking elsewhere and ended up driving all the way out to Henley way to go to Wrightune as they offer fixed price service costs.
Would like to find someone I can trust more locally who don't charge insane hourly rates.
I did the same. I always do the basic service stuff myself and odd jobs like air con pipes, condensers etc. But when required all new suspension parts and silencers I went with the guys at Friends Green up near Hitchin. Excellent team and really reasonable pricing. Experts in 996. Left the car with them and picked up a few days later.
I used them recently to do starter and Y-cable replacement plus gearbox oil, brake fluid change and decided to have it geo'd on their new Hunter machine while I was there.
Great bunch of guys and really good service.
I'm aiming to do a suspension refresh too, albeit I have been buying up the parts myself, so I don't think they'd be up for fitting supplied parts.
Paul at Purely9 (near Blackbushe airport) is great btw, and very reasonable. Highly recommend.
Only reason I didn’t use him for suspension he doesn’t do geo and I thought ‘two birds’.
Garage I used for the suspension was Hardings in Knaphill. As said, I can’t fault the work, but they were pricey.
One thing which did put me off slightly was a call I had from them to tell me that my RMS was leaking, and they also laid it on in no uncertain terms about IMS bearings. Now, bear in mind it had been with Purely9 two weeks prior for a check over, and Paul (who I trust) hadn’t mentioned a leak. I immediately text him and he responded with - no excessive leak at all, they all weep slightly even when changed.
Quote from Hardings for RMS + clutch + IMS upgraded was just shy of £5k, which I thought seemed a bit steep. £6k if I upgraded the flywheel.
Car looks to sit just right, be interesting to see if it settles any lower. Did they have to replace any other parts ? And they did a full geo, Do you know any of the settings you went for ?
I was looking forward to your feedback on the Koni’s !! And being Surrey I was hoping to get a ride in it!
That's a crazy price, and why it's becoming necessary to shop farther afield to get works done.
FGP have a fixed price for a 996.1 at £1,399+VAT and 996.2 for £1,499+VAT
No other parts aside from a rear arm that was seized - and yep, have the settings - will grab them when I’m home later!
Ha, yeah. I kind of wish I just went for it on the konis just to see, but with the B4’s being so new, it felt a bit overkill.
@Cobalt6dot2
- that’s a crazy difference. I’ve heard good things about those guys.
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Had to fly over to Reading this morning. The only good thing about the trip was that it was sunny and got a chance to get the car out - not to mention an empty car park
Very happy with the way it’s looking now.
I live in Surrey and I’ve also been taking my car to Wrightune for the last 3 years for the same reasons. There are plenty of Porsche specialists in Surrey but they are pricey. Wrightune offer very competitive rates and a no frills, straight talking approach which I like. They know 996s and all the usual issues inside and out. Just don’t expect to get a coffee