996 C4S Frunk Cable

I have 04 996 C4S. No problems 'cept the seatbelt lock deal, horn beeps, etc. Different problems. Car had 6-7 P-book manuals in it, no Owners Manual. @@&*! Front of car on jack stands, front wheels off, removed front of wheel plastic liner shroud looking for frunk cable. No luck. I don;t know what it looks like or where in the front mess it is supposed to be. I want to route it near the front tow hitch deal. I don't want to remove front bumper, but will do so if absolutely needed. Anyone have a photo of cable I am looking for or other clues? Many folks talk about it, but no pics of what it is before goofing around. Help appreciated. On a side note, I wanted to attach a pig tail for battery tender. Simple. Not So Fast! Minus terminal had 10mm nut & corresponding bolt, OK. Plus has @#%*!! knows who, stripped and bent the bolt, a total bitc$$$h to get off. Then root in the bolt bins and jars to find something to fit and connect Plus for tender. Multiple bigger and bigger tools that still fit to get the damn bolt off. Man, someone just murdered that Plus connection on the battery! I made certain NOT to disconnect battery in the fight, and eventually 1.5 hrs later, got it done. Pigtail goes by psgr side A-pillar easy to get to, car locked and battery being "tended". Cleaned and washed front wheels, they were absolutely BLACK inside, and not much better on outside. They are not perfect, as couple of small scrapes, but look 1000% better. Also cleaned red calipers, and various stuff in front. Do folks put Never-Seize or similar on wheel bolts? Curious. Thanks for any assistance.

The frunk emergency release cable is a thin wire-wound cable, about the size of 12- or 14-gauge electrical wire. It is looped at the end you're looking for. It should be behind the passenger side front wheel liner. If it's not there it may have already been moved. You may need to pull the front bumper to find it, which isn't hard and should be done frequently anyway to properly clean the radiators. You'll need to pull the bumper anyway to re-route the cable. I repositioned my frunk release to be accessible through the passenger side radiator air intake. It makes for a straight pull and seems a lot more practical to me than routing it to the emergency tow hitch opening.

2003 C4S showing the pull cable routed to the front tow hook location. Pulling the front bumper isn�t very difficult. Putting it here makes it a hard pull to use it when you have to, but it�s easy to access through the bumper plug. Next time I have the bumper off I�ll be moving it to the radiator area.

I would try removing the headlight to see if it laying under that before i removed the front bumper..unless as previosuly mentioned you were wanting to clean your radiators... mine looked fine from the hole in the bumper, and even my indy said oh no big deal we clean them out with a high pressure hose from the front...well after some extensive reading i decided to take it off to do a few things at the same time.. and boy was i glad i did, the amount of debris BETWEEN the AC condensers and the radiator was bad... it was filthy.. well worth doing.

Hello Siberia! I just got a C4S also (in June). I have first hand experience with the emergency cables. I took off my front bumper to flush out the radiators from behind (you should too). They were clogged with 21 years of road debris! It is not a difficult job, and you learn a lot about your 996! While in there I found the frunk emergency release cable. It was tucked under the right headlight frame, but you have to open the trunk to remove the headlight, so it was a useless location. The red arrow is where it was, the yellow arrow is the cable. I considered pushing the loop into the tow hook hole (from behind), as some people do that. Instead, I added a length of strong cord (I will replace it with SS cable, when I get some, and get back in there) and routed the end to just behind the right side marker, because that would be an easy access point. Maybe too easy. Since I did it, I think behind the passenger wheel well liner may be a better place. As the only time it will be used is if the electric release does not work. The only "catch" is that the locking lug key is in the tool kit, in the trunk. I also did some work on the rear and engine so took off the rear bumper. While in there, I rerouted the rear emergency cable to the stud in the driver wheel well (it was under the left tail light, which also requires the lid to be up, to remove...) There are a few videos on youtube describing the process for removing each bumper cover. I hope this helps. Paul P.S. I have an extra 911 Carrera Owners Manual (dated 05/02). If you want one LMK and we will work something out.

PM sent to @FunWithPaul The first thing I did was install/make a pigtail for battery tender to hood edge A-pillar on passenger side. Since the only way the 996 uses "less" power is Locked, then working on stuff with frunk or engine lid, doors open is a battery drain. Connect tender and be safer for the battery. Unfortunately, PO/SomeShop? absolutely murdered the positive connector bolt, BENT IT, STRIPPED the nut, etc, 2+ hours to get that thing off. Replaced with stainless nut bolt while not disconnecting battery, not so easy, but done.

Quotes source post: 19596818

I wouldn't worry about disconnecting the battery (of course Neg first...), I have had to do it dozens of times in the last few months (chasing down ECU electrical faults), If you have the Becker CDR-23 radio, you don't even need a radio code (as it talks to the speedometer module in the car to verify it is in the correct car). BUT... when you reconnect the battery, turn on the ignition for 60 seconds, then turn it off, to allow the throttle to re-calibrate. I also hear disconnecting the battery resets the fuel trim memory (and maybe more) Also the windows need to be run full up then activate the switch again, to recalibrate the window computer. Just found it in the owners manual Paul

I discovered the hard way that my new-to-me 2004 C4S didn't even have an emergency release cable. Long story documented in another thread, but I ordered a new one from Pelican Parts and when I finally got my frunk open, I was able to install the new one and route it to the front tow hitch opening WITHOUT removing the front bumper. With the trim piece off around the hood latch, I was able to pretty easily guide the cable (it's fairly stiff) and catch it with a wire clothes hanger inserted through the tow bolt opening. Tested the pull numerous times and wasn't too difficult (despite the odd angle). Yes, it's a good idea to get comfortable taking your bumper off, clean the radiators, etc, and it would make routing the cable easier, but if you just need to resolve the issue quickly it can be done (once you find the existing cable!).