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YOUR RESEARCH996 - how bad is this going to be...
Leading reported evidence
Replace relief valve and spring
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
This car had just under 1 until i changed the relief valve and spring with the 997 version and then it rose to 1.25.
Leading evidence: 'Replace relief valve and spring' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace chain rails and re-timing the car' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It won't be that hard to get out, as porschetech said drill two holes the last one I did I tapped the two holes and used 4MM bolts with a horseshoe bracket that I made out of flat stock to remove the broken piece.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
so I used a piece of square tube and some other scraps to allow me to use a gear puller to puller the “u”. That worked and it slowly came out.
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Replace chain rails and re-timing the car
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Suggestion · Original poster
On to changing the chain rails and re-timing the car.
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Suggestion
Drill two small holes carefully in the remaining piece to screw in two small sheet metal screws to use a dent puller to yank the piece out...
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It won't be that hard to get out, as porschetech said drill two holes the last one I did I tapped the two holes and used 4MM bolts with a horseshoe bracket that I made out of flat stock to remove the broken piece.
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Generation: 20261026T174436Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I am doing the chain guides over on my 996. I was pulling the oil pump housing off the front to access the bolts for the guides on bank 2. It did not want to come off. I thought it was hung up on the studs, and was as gently as possible prying it away from the block. Then.... snap - the tube on the housing that goes into the engine block around the pump drive snapped off at the first ring. now I have most of the tube and one ring in the block.
It appears to have pulled about 1/4" out.
I have not yet tried to move the broken piece. not sure how to approach this.
Any suggestions are really appreciated. This is very discouraging...
remainder of the tube in the block - ring stayed behind when it broke
oil pump housing
housing missing the broken off section.
Sorry. That is bad. You do need to get the broken piece out from the block. I am not really sure how to go about that at this point. That pump goes on very early in the assembly so that the engagement of the drive pin and the oring seal is easily achieved. Maybe send a PM to Charles at LNE.
in the picture, i see the outer tube that sheared off #1, then another circle of steel #2, then the shaft that i think is the end of the IMS #3.
Is that ring #2 around the IMS a bushing? Is it a bearing? Is it actually part of the oil pump housing? Does it rotate or is it fixed? its not clear from any images i can find.
This is the thickness you have to work with, it is the same as the piece that is still in the block.....
Drill two small holes carefully in the remaining piece to screw in two small sheet metal screws to use a dent puller to yank the piece out...
Drill very straight and right in the middle because if you wander off you will damage the case or the IM Shaft...
Good luck and may the Porsche Gods be with you !!
Porschetecc3 x thanks for the idea. Scarry to drill so close to the case. Might be my only hope. As it is so stuck as to break i wonder if it will work. .
It won't be that hard to get out, as porschetech said drill two holes the last one I did I tapped the two holes and used 4MM bolts with a horseshoe bracket that I made out of flat stock to remove the broken piece. Make sure you remove the tensioner to release any pressure on the intermediate shaft.
Thanks all. Encouraging to hear that I am not the only one this happened to. I had not released the tensioner on the IMS. That is the lessons learned here I think.
Getting pieces together to tap and pull this.
Success. The process-
i filed down the ridge of the broken area to get a flat surface to drill in to
i then Drilled two holes and tapped them for 4mm bolts.
i took a piece of flat bar and made a “u” and tried backing the piece out with nuts on the bolts. No joy. The threads are not strong enough.
so I used a piece of square tube and some other scraps to allow me to use a gear puller to puller the “u”. That worked and it slowly came out.
lessons learned -
Before when taking the oil pump housing off, release all the chain tensioners first. This is why ithink it was so hard to remove.
After all the bolts are out try rotating the housing around the tube to loosen it as you pullit off. Come out straight!
if it breaks….after some moments of calming yourself down…
be very careful in how deep you drill. One of mine went through.
be very careful to go in the center of the remaining piece. One of mine wandered off and i have a slight scratch in the case.
cheapest new pump i can dfifnd is under $400. Which it were less, but on careful inspection of the pump I find wear. I had low oil pressure at idle - about 1.25 bars- so maybe a new one will help. I already put in the 997 relief valve.
so another adventure behind me….
thanks for the advice.
No, the valve springs are trying to twist the cam thus pulling on the bottom part of the chain thus pulling the ims out of center.
Just as PT3 suggests, the cam bank 2 has to be locked to take off the valve spring pressure on chain...
jmo
Another lesson learned thanks to PT3 - lock in both cam banks before taking the oil pump off!
on the oil pressure, my 2007 997 used to have 2+ bars at hot idle. This car had just under 1 until i changed the relief valve and spring with the 997 version and then it rose to 1.25. The 997 would peg out at 5 at 3500 rpm hot. This car gets up to maybe 4 at 3500. Another discussion….
thanks again to all that contributed. On to changing the chain rails and re-timing the car. Will be using the “man in a garage” youtubes as a guide. He follows instructions from Hartech.
My understanding is that is normal oil pressure.
man in a garage is great BUT he has inaccuracies in his cam timing video, specifically IIRC he does NOT rotate the crank 360 between banks. There is video by another guy that corrects his errors, forget the name but it�s on YouTube. Hot chicks though. Just cross reference and don�t take anything as gospel.
Watched every youtube on this i could find and there are as many different approaches as videos. I did gather that after rotating the crank twice after dong bank 1 you check that the cam chain is still aligned to the dots.
Then you rotate another 360 degrees to get the bank 2 notch facing the case before you start bank 2
sound right?
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