Stiff rotor C4

Hello all, I wonder if you guys can help. My handbrake went a bit limp the other day. It still works, but I have to pull it way up before anything happens. I looked on-line and found a video of a screwdriver through bolt-hole adjustment. So I have taken the wheel off and I'm trying to turn the rotor (brake disk). It is very stiff to turn. The brakes are probably contributing, but I get the impression the rotor is stiff to turn. I put two wheel bolts back in and am levering it with the bar. Stiff. Is this normal? On a C4 is it doing more stuff? Of course I could take the calliper off to eliminate the brakes, but I thought I'd check with you lot first. Secondly, I can't find/see the notched adjustment wheel I saw on the video, expecting it at the top or bottom, but can't see it anywhere. Are C4s different to the non-C4 video? Any help you can offer is appreciated.

Parking brakes are the same. There something wrong with the parking brake. You should be able to turn the disc by hand. Remove caliper and disc and see if anything is not where it should be. Also since it has a lot more travel in the handle one end of the cable is probably not still connected to the brake.

Hello guys, Based on what has been said (that the rear wheel/rotor should turn freely), I revisited this in case I did something wrong. This time I pushed the disks back into the calliper to make sure there was no friction there, and backed of the handbrake adjust a couple of notches. Like this the rotor does not turn freely by hand. What happens is the rotor is free to turn say 20 degrees before the turning becomes quite stiff. I can be turned, but v slowly, like through treacle. I'm confident that the 20 degrees, or whatever it is, is the gears taking up slack in the engine/diff. I know there is a bit of movement when the handbrake shoes take-up a little, but I don't think it is that. There is no sound of friction from the disks or shows - that I can hear. Both rear wheels are the same. Here is a link: video of stiff rotor And here is another one with the wheel on, a little more leverage, but same thing: 20240818_105601.mp4 May I repeat that this is a Carrera 4, which I believe has a viscous coupling to the front wheels - which are stationary. Is that significant? Can anyone with a 4wd confirm if their wheels move freely please? Thanks in advance...

Did you get it out of gear? If both rear wheels are off the ground, then it being in gear, or it being a C4 wouldn't matter. The wheel on the opposite side would just turn in the opposite direction but friction on that side would have to be overcome nonetheless. The gear wheel to adjust P brake shoes is between the 11 and 2 o'clock position, so that's where a wheel bolt hole should be to see and adjust it. What you find hard to turn might be normal. In order to get some reference it would be good to take a torque wrench, set it to 20 lbs-ft and see if it klicks before you can turn the wheel. Increase torque setting by 10 and repeat till you find a setting where you can turn the wheel without the wrench klicking. Try this on the RHS as it won't work on the LHS wheel. Do the LHS wheel by feel (or use a socket big enough to put the wrench on the axle nut). Report back the torque you've found.

Hello hardtailer. That is a good idea re the torque wrench - but bear in mind that I'm turning from a wheel nut not the centre, so there will be some advantage there. Yes, I was out of gear (smiley face icon). I wasn't depressing the clutch as my legs aren't long enough for that. I could have asked my wife, whose legs aren't quite as long as I'd like them to be, but I didn't. So with only the one wheel (RHS) off the ground, it took around 25 foot pounds to turn the wheel. If you promise not to laugh, I've uploaded a photo of my torque wrench... (hint, it doesn't click) If anyone could repeat the test on their C4, that would be grrreat. Thanks again

If your car has a limited slip differential you are measuring the breakaway torque.

Hello beermanpete, No my car does not have a LSD. As I mentioned, my only theory is the viscous coupling between the rear wheels and the fronts causing the friction. Having said that, I read a lot of debate as to just how much coupling there will be, especially when the fluid is cold - as mine is whilst stationary in my garage. I suppose I could lift one or both front wheels off the ground to see if they turn, but I am not inclined to do that. I wish I cad a car lift.

Stringy, It sounds like you are correct, the viscous coupling is the likley cause of the drag. You will need to raise another wheel to go any further with the diagnostic.