3rd Party Keyless Entry DIY (Why Not?) - Page 9 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Yeah, I know... I've had my car for 4 years and have never had keyless entry. The best thing for the rest of you to do is to buy an OEM transmitter and have the dealer code the car , but I've put it off for 4 years because it wasn't worth the $300-$400 that the whole repair would cost. That, and you all know how I love to tinker, so... I bought this unit off of eBay for $12. It is simply a series of relays that are controlled by the transmitter/receiver. Set Kit Universal Car Remote Central Entry Lock Locking Safety | eBay Below is the wiring diagram for the door lock mechanism. As noted in the photo, when you turn the key in the door lock, you are simply grounding either the lock or unlock wire, telling the immobilizer to arm/disarm. Brown = ground. Brown with White stripe = lock. Brown with Red stripe = unlock. What we want to do is tap into the lock and unlock wires so that we can remotely ground them, locking or unlocking the car. Tracing the wires back, they are easily accessible from the entry point right above the fuse box (remove fuse box cover by removing the 4 Philips screws). The 3rd party unit uses remotely controlled relays to perform this same function (the cars system is safe since the 3rd party receiver is isolated and the relays just act like switches - same as the door lock). This picture is a mess, but shows how simple the unit is. Basically, I just fed ground to both relays (by shorting them to ground) and when they are activated by the receiver, they switch the ground to the either of the 2 outputs. The unit also has outputs for a flashing light to indicate when the car is successfully locked or unlocked (side marker lights?). I have not hooked these up yet, but fuses A3 and A4 (for the side markers) are right there, so will soon. Lastly, it has relay outputs for a trunk actuator (both + and - ...I think ours is negative actuated, just like the door lock microswitches). So, that's it! 4 wires; lock signal, unlock signal, 12V+ and ground (will add the trunk actuator and side marker flash later). After finding the right wires, it took 20 minutes to install and now I have remote arming capability. Works just like OEM Like I said, the best route is to go OEM, but I have time and am bored. This works great, though. Have not tested range, but works from at least 25 feet away so far. Also, the shape of the fob is just right to fit a crest on, so it will replace my leather keychain soon. You guys can field the new guys that don't get my insanity Video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghsv5X1UW4U&feature=youtu.be

Quotes source post: 445523

Staying tuned!

I think one could reprogram the IC on the circuit board using a chip programmer and the code from your working remote but the little oscillator in the case I am not sure how to match that to the car. I only had to put new switches on mine to get it work.

Video of me playing with it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghsv5X1UW4U&feature=youtu.be

Lol I bought this, this week and was going to do it this weekend!!!!

Quotes source post: 445571

Great minds! The instructions are a bit wonky, but the install is pretty straightforward once you decipher the gibberish. Main points are that both receive a negative (ground) signal and don't get the lock/unlock wires reversed. Before anyone asks, I didn't do step-by-step instructions because I figured that anyone with enough skill to do this would find what they needed in post #1. If I can clear anything up, please ask!

This is the one I got. I was going to do trunk and frunk too, but I figure I experiment first. $14 eh, I figure I can play with it.

Since I'm behind particlewave a day I may as well not fall behind any more. lol I approach mine a little differently as most the items could be accessed under the drivers seat. besides after crawling under the dash yesterday to do the ignition switch I'm a little sore. Be sure to unsnap the harness to the seat but keep it plugged in and wired as you do not want the Airbag light to come on after everything is put back together. You can only erase and reset the code if you have the proper hookup and not some generic unit. There is enough length in the harness to set the seat just outside the car. For this door lock system, as they may be different for each system I think I only tapped 5 wires and grounded three wires... for a total of eight wires connected. Power- Red to I cheated and grabbed the lead to the immobilizer Ground- black - to the existing ground lug shown in pic Ground- yellow - to the existing ground lug shown in pic Ground- yellow/black - to the existing ground lug shown in pic Lock signal White wire - to small Brown/white on left side immobilizer Opening signal- White/Black to small Brown/red on left side immobilizer turn signal output - Brown wire to small Black/white wire on right side immobilizer turn signal output - Brown wire to small Black/green wire on right side immobilizer I just hooked up the door locks and the light output so I can see the turn signal light flash when the doors lock or unlock Here it is installed... here is my remote..

As particlewave mentioned this system uses a neg ground for the signal. as you can see there are a couple of ways to configure the system... This is the way I wired this product.

So what was basically this .... I cut the excess wires and this is what is left over to connect... Notice I left the trunk wire in case I want to wire the trunk release at a later date. Please note that these wires were for a 98 and your model year wire colors will vary

If we can get one of those, to work with one of these.... 3 Buttons Remote Flip Folding Key Shell Case Replace for Porsche Cayenne 03 Up | eBay That would be something!

Quotes source post: 445760

Thats funny, the one shell is more expensive than the remote door lock system! I tell you though the Cayenne key is a monster. Wish i still had mine. but I had to carry the key by itself.

Quotes source post: 445764

True, but only about a 10th of a real one.

Just wondering how terribly expensive would it be to have a new circuit board made for a key fob like that though Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Quotes source posts: 445729, 445760, 445764

Very nice! I considered the same since all of the wiring needed is right there, but didn't want to have to take the seat out. I thought I read that it was a pain to get out, but I guess I should have looked in the Bentley. I agree. I have a Cayenne flip key and ended up shelving it. It is far too bulky to have sticking out of the ignition and just feels awkward.

Well, it was only an idea!

I love the flip key idea...jus feels wrong in the ignition. Would be even nicer to incorporate the keyless entry electronics into it. They look similar in size and shape to "healthservices" fobs.

It's 4am and I was bored, so I moved the receiver next to the immobilizer, same as yours. I decided that I wanted the turn signal flash and the trunk opener, so went ahead and moved it. The signal flash is definitely nice! If only I could fix this darn insomnia...

Cool! Is your box the later model style with electric trunk release or cable?

It has the cable pull levers, but I did verify today that it has the rear trunk actuator. I think I'll leave it be for now. I seriously doubt I'd ever use it, but nice to know its there if I change my mind.

I think the wire for the actuator is also at the immobilizer unit. mine does not have the actuator

Quotes source post: 446124

Yep It's the blue wire with black stripe. Also, for those following, up to 2000 models will have the same lock/unlock wires (brown/white and brown/red) AND turn signal wires (black/white and black/green) at the immobilizer. 2001 and up will have the same lock/unlock wires at the immobilizer, but not the turn signal wires. I don't really like my crest idea It's a bit too big and maybe a bit tacky, but it's on there now. I think I'll use one of the tiny key crests (or nothing) on my second fob and use that one. I guess it's no bigger than the key chain crest...

It does not look bad. At least in the picture. Funny how something looks great in the pictures, don't look and feel so great in real life.

After holding it in my hand and looking at it for a while, I've decided that I like it. I would like the crest to be recessed a little more, but that's it. I carefully traced the outline of the crest onto the fob and used the Dremel to cut out a shallow recess, but the plastic is only a few millimeters thick, so couldn't cut too deep.

Well even thought mine did not have the trunk release actuator in the trunk, it was wired for one! And the actuator is available used for as little as $35 online today But of course if you want to install a less expensive actuator you can too. You will most likely need to use a relay for at least the aftermarket actuator as it draws a few amps

Nice For $35, may as well go OEM. The trunk relay in my keyless entry unit is rated at 40 amps, so no trouble there. I still haven't done anything with it yet, though.

I wished i had a rear trunk actuator. About the only thing that makes me upset on my car. Maybe i need to see if it is wired for one

Quotes source post: 447578

Takes about 30 seconds to pull down the rear panel to check.

Yeah it was late last night. I had to re locate and re wire some DRL's. I will do it later today for sure.

Quotes source post: 447550

It's funny how similar and different these door lock systems are. Mine did not have a relay in it and quickly burned up the door lock unit so I installed another door lock unit from another company with the same remote thinking it would be wired and color coded the same... Nope. LOL I used a $8 actuator and a $2 relay. So now I have a trunk release.

I took a look at mine and I do not even have a location set on the bracket for the second cable. Guess I am just unlucky and have to do it old school with the lever.

Quotes source post: 447832

If you get the factory actuator be sure the get the bracket as well. I just piggy back the trunk bypass.

Quotes source post: 447792

Nice I may get around to hooking up the trunk actuator this week. I need a break from headlights, anyway (one more set to do later this week).

I ended up cutting and isolating the blue/black wire to the immobilizer just so i dont do any damage to the immobilizer unit itself

So low and behold I do have an actuator. It is a black box with the plunger connected to a solid rod that goes under the metal spoiler motor cover. That connects to the latch where it is connected to the single manual cable release. I have read someone had to take their car into the dealer and have the computer reset to get the trunk release to talk to the keyfob. So my question for you guys would be if after I replace the actuator and the actuator is still not talking to the keyfob through the immobilizer could I install a third party entry system to make the signal bypass the cars system and the actuator work? I heard the actuator actually turn on when I connected a test light but the arm was not moving at all. That made me to believe there is something wrong there. It was cheap enough to buy so why not replace it. So should a third party entry system be able to send a signal to the OEM actuator?

Yes, but most I would assume since you do have the actuator your fob is programed for it already. It just a matter of getting the actuator to work

Quotes source post: 448141

Sounds like a bad actuator to me.

That is what i am guessing also. Waiting on the replacement to come in.

OK guys need some help now. New actuator came in and installed. It is not moving at all when I hit the trunk button. The light on the dash is illuminating when I hit the button so it is getting a signal from the key. I would much rather install a unit like you guys have if it will send the signal to the actuator for it to work instead of paying a labor hour at the dealership that would cost me way more than the system to go in. Any ideas or suggestions?

Doors unlocked and you are holding the trunk unlock button down for more than three seconds?

Yes Sir. On Renntech a guy had the same problem and he said he took in into the dealer and they had to recode the ECU an it worked after. I am obviously trying to avoid that if possible. Here is that thread. Rear Trunk Release Not Working on Remote - 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S) - RennTech.org Community

Yes you can add the 3rd party keyless remote like particle wave and I did. I actually cut the blue black wire away from immobiliser

You cut it away from the immobilizer and wired it direct to the aftermarket unit directly?

Well I used a relay as the first aftermarket unit could not take the load (it fried) and I did not want the immobilizer to be in harms way. second one I used a relay and no issues. Some of the units like particlewave bought have a relay inside and can take a load, I just did not want to chance it.

I just ordered the one you bought. Can you give me any help on what relay to buy and how to wire it? I have ever installed relays in all the things I ever have done with cars. Thanks bud.

Not a problem. Pretty much standard relay. That can be bought. I just happen to have one. But will find one online so you can see Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Like this one alarm relay | eBay But just look up alarm relay and look for one that looks like that, get one with a pig tail so you don't have to source a bunch of wires and connectors.

Dumb question again. Which wires go to what on the relay?

delete this one

try this one instead... 87 jumps over the red wire it does not connect to it.

I actually have an identical relay to his one you posted. So let me break this down because these diagrams make my eyes cross lol. Cut the blue black wire from the immobilizer. Connect AM trunk wire to the blue black wire and connect to pin 85 Connect 86 pin with a tap to the red wire Connect pin 87 to the blue and wire Ground pin 30 Did I get that schematic correct? I really do appreciate it the help. I can and have done almost every other thing about working on a car and never have wired a relay lol.

Its funny how some of us are visual and others are not. Which can be a good thing Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

lol that is true. I am visual on 99 percent of things besides electrical stuff. Wiring diagrams confuse the ever living hell out of me lol.

Cut the blue black wire from the immobilizer. leave immobilizer end disconnected, connect the other end to door lock signal wire from keyless entry In the trunk.... Connect the unconnected blue black trunk wire to 85 Connect the unconnected blue black trunk wire from actuator to 87 Connect 86 pin with a tap to the red wire Ground pin 30 Connect the red wire.

Perfect. Thanks bud you have been a life saver on this one. Maybe my only complaint on the car will go away now.

With these cars there always something that can be improved or fixed. Its just... when do we stop?

Quotes source post: 448716

NEVER!!! Nothing left to fix on mine, but I'm always looking for things to tweak or improve. This keyless entry was one of my favorite mods due to ease and usefulness. My "hand activated" storage shelf lights are a close second. Of course, I'm quite fond of the headlights and side markers, as well. Just...can't...stop!

Prefer the hand activated cubby light mod Have to say that keyless mod is pretty cool too. Changing dash & accessories lights colors etc... but the best of all, the de-ambering the egglights. Now that my man (speechless) Sure I forget a few others. Kewl mods, never stop.... keep then coming Charles Regards A fan

What? You don't like my http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/50640-%247-custom-leather-interior.html Thanks Fred! You're still #1, pal!

Question for you guys. When you connect the new unit to to lock wires, do you leave it still connected to the immobilizer, or disconnect it? I'm considering doing this on my 02.

Yes you still leave connected. You just tap into the wires. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Thanks. This will be my next project. It's about $400 to have the dealer fix it and cut me a 2nd key.

Thanks to Healthservices I finished this mod up today and viola I have a working rear trunk actuator now. Thanks for all the help.

Quotes source post: 449345

Very cool!

My old actuator worked also. It had to be the programming in the immobilizer. Thanks for the write up particle. I would have never known how cheap and easy it was to get it going. Literally It got old having to go into the cab to unlock the trunk for groceries lol.

Glad you got some use out of it It's so nice to finally have keyless entry! I wish I had done it sooner. $12 vs $400-$500 is astonishing...having added features like horn and/or flashing turn signals to locate vehicle and indicate arming/disarming, which OEM does not have, just makes it that much better!

Did this on the weekend...aside from my wiring harness having every colour under the rainbow, once I figured out what was what, and used the info on this thread, I now have working remotes!

Quotes source post: 449374

Nice! Price and ease of install makes this mod almost to good to be true.

So it's been a long time since I have been on here. Was religious about it when I first got my 2001 in 2005. Coming up to 10 yrs now with 115000 miles. Been a great car and still puts a smile on my face to drive it. Enough of that though - I started this project and after figuring things out, finally got the 'lock' part of the lock/unlock bit to work. I just can't get the unlock part to work. I've tried everything, rechecked wiring, etc - Nothing, nada, zilch. If anyone can help out an strictly amateur DIY electrician (more of guy that soldered a few wires), I would appreciate it!! Thank you much. Marc

Can you check your aftermarket module and confirm that it is putting out 12VDC negative (ground) on the unlock output wire?

It can also be your crimps or connections too. Be there done that!!! Lol. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Hi all, newbie on this board and have to say thanks for this thread! I used the info in it today to install a cheapo ebay keyless entry and alarm in my base 97 in under an hour. So far have the doors unlocking/locking and the lights flashing working fine, but wondering if someone could help me with a few other bits... 1. My kit came with a siren and a wire to run to it, but it's a bit big to fit under the seat so I was wondering if I could instead use it to get the horn to sound? Any idea if this would be possible by splicing into a wire in the bundle, and if so which one? 2. Any idea if there's a wire I can splice to get a 'key on' signal, or might I have to take this from the fuse box? 3. There doesn't seem to be a combined 'door open' signal. I currently have it hooked up to just the drivers door, any idea how I could go about combining the separate door open signals into one 'either door is open' signal? (I'm guessing some kind of relay, but a bit out of my depth...?) Thanks in advance for any advice.

Quotes source post: 457839

Ok, I went to check the voltage. I checked both the lock and unlock output wires. The readings I got were 6.5 V for the lock, 5.6 for the unlock. The thing is, I am not sure if I tested properly. I put the end of one probe into the wire connection point on the module and the other probe onto the body of the car. I also tried disconnecting the both the lock and unlock wires and testing the voltage and got barely any, if any, readings. I tested the voltage in this case by connecting one probe to the output wire and the other probe to the body of the car to complete the circuit. Could my unlock wire possibly not be brown with a red stripe? Thanks again! This is baffling me.

Quotes source post: 457840

Doubled checked and triple checked. Connections that were not soldered are now.

Quotes source post: 457908

okay so you and I are on the same page, yes... - Brown wire to small Black/white wire on right side immobilizer - Brown wire to small Black/green wire on right side immobilizer will show voltage when nothing is happening. when you ground this wire (make sure the door latch thinks it is latched by using a screw driver and flipping the latch.) when you ground one of these wires the door will lock or unlock. This is what your aftermarket door module is suppose to be doing, supplying a momentarily ground to each of these wires depending on if you are locking or unlocking the car when you use a voltmeter the voltage should go to zero momentarily when the lock button is hit.

Quotes source post: 457913

Ok. Heading back out to try the next steps. It's hot here in Atlanta. BTW, what is this immobilizer you speak of?

Quotes source post: 457920

[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.] https://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/immobilizer1437330336.jpg

Quotes source post: 457908

You are looking for a ground signal, so the other probe would be connected to a 12V + (POSITIVE) source, not the body (which is ground).

Quotes source post: 457927

Ok! Just back in from the outside - I've figured it out. My first mistake - I had 2 brown with red stripe wires. At least, that's what it looks like to me. Apparently, when I discovered the second brown with red stripe wire and cut it, I heard an unlocking sound. Bingo! Seems I found the right wire. I played around for a bit with that and could get nothing to work. I eventually discovered that connecting only one end (the side with the charge) of this new brown/red stripe wire to the unlock wire from the module did it finally work! I've tried many times splicing the unlock wire to the brown/red stripe wire and it does not work. Question is - I've now cut the brown/red stripe wire and one side is no longer connected to anything - Does this matter?

Yes, it means you will no longer be able to unlock the car with the key at the door Something is not right.

Further to my previous post, have been puzzling over the circuit diagrams, wondering if I'm on the right lines... 1. My kit came with a siren and a wire to run to it, but it's a bit big to fit under the seat so I was wondering if I could instead use it to get the horn to sound? Any idea if this would be possible by splicing into a wire in the bundle, and if so which one? ...looks like I might be able to splice onto the BK/YE 'alarm horn' wire, although as mine's only an M531 not sure if I'd even have the physical 'alarm horn' fitted? 2. Any idea if there's a wire I can splice to get a 'key on' signal, or might I have to take this from the fuse box? ...possibly BK/BR 'Term 15 In'? 3. There doesn't seem to be a combined 'door open' signal. I currently have it hooked up to just the drivers door, any idea how I could go about combining the separate door open signals into one 'either door is open' signal? (I'm guessing some kind of relay, but a bit out of my depth...?) ...according to Car Security and Convenience Alarm Sensors and Triggers I should be able to combine the 2 negative door inputs in parallel with just a couple of diodes? Also, anyone know what the BL/RE(/BK) 'door safe' wires are? I'm currently using the BR/GN(/WT) 'claw blank' wires for door open indication, is this correct? I guess the answer to all of these is just 'try it and see', but hoping someone with more knowledge than me might help me avoid frying something in the process Thanks again.

Quotes source post: 457934

Just read your message and went out to check. Unlock works as it did before - what that means is that the drivers side locking mechanism has been broken for a while. When necessary, I would just lock/unlock from the passenger's side. One thing that prompted me to investigate keyless entry was the passenger locking mechanism was beginning to get tricky. It is baffling that I can just cut the brown/red wire and have one side no longer connected.

Big thanks to particlewave and healthservices for helping me work through the issues and get my keyless system working!

Re my Q3 below, turns out it's easy to get a combined door open signal with a couple of one way diodes wired up to each door input as described in the link in my previous post. Still interested in any info on the other questions though... TIA!

Ok, I finally had enough of the lack of a remote and looking like an **************************** every time I don't walk over and let my wife into the passenger side because it can't be unlocked from outside the car, and ordered a central locking unit. It should be here this week. I was researching wiring on an 02 and found this. http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/PORSCHE%20BOXSTER%201997-2002.pdf I would like the parking lights to flash, and I'm pretty sure there is a wire in the immobilizer for both left and right. Anyone know which wire I am looking for? If not I can trace it down, but knowing off hand would make it a heck of a lot easier. Also plan on making the trunk work. I'll have to read up more on that.

Making the horn honk when armed would be best. Better than having to look for light flash

I could be happy with that too. Or, even both. The horn however, is all the way up in the column and I'm not sure there's a horn wire running to the immobilizer. If there is, I'll hook both of them up.

At the immobilizer on 2001 and up: Turn signals left = Black with White stripe, turn signals right = Black with Green stripe. Alarm horn = Black with Yellow stripe.

That's exactly what I needed. Thank you sir.

Well, I got my module today. Tried to hook it up in the dark, which didn't work out too well. It locks with the unlock key, and won't lock at all. I think I may have reversed the wires. Not sure. I'll check in the AM.

Well, got it to lock and unlock properly. The wires were labelled wrong on the schematic of the controller. Confirmed it with a multi tester. They were backwards. Also had taped into the wrong red and brown wire. Now I'm having a problem where once the alarm engages I can't get it to unlock with the remote. Also couldn't figure out the trunk so I saved it for another day. This car really frustrates the living **************** out of me.

Odd. Does this happen when you use the key in the door? If you have it all wired correctly, locking/unlocking with the remote is no different than doing it with the key in the door. How are you powering the new unit?

It's wired right into the imbolizer. Power coming from it, grounded at the ground lug under the seat, and tied into the imobilzer for the lock unluck signal. Couldn't manage to get the truck to open with the unit so I gave up. I'm beyond frustrated with this car. When you turn the key sometimes it unlocks both doors, sometimes it doesn't. I'm betting it's going to need work on the imobilzer which is going to piss me off.

Which immobilizer wire did you tap for power?

The one under the seat.

http://youtu.be/5Eqb-DOoauM Before the alarm kicks on it works fine.

I was wondering which wire specifically because it may be a wire that is inactive once the system is armed. In other words, the power to the 3rd party keyless entry may be powered down once the system is armed. I guess if the lock function still works when armed, then probably not. When unlock with the new remote doesn't work, does the key in the door still unlock both doors (even if just occasionally)?

I'll have to check that. The lead that runs to the DME is live all the top. If you put the top down, or sit in the car and activate it you can hear it clicking and the lights flash, just won't unlock the car.

For locking and unlocking, you are using the brown wire with the white stripe and the brown wire with the red stripe, correct?

Yes. Brown and white and brown and red.

Help guys I am new to this forum I need a new 3 button key fob should I trust buying one on the Internet and take it to the dealer or should I just go to the dealer and spend the big bucks?

I just checked. Unlocking with the key only unlocks the passenger door.

And you did just tap into those wires, not cut them, right? Unlocking with the key only unlocks the passenger door, but unlocking with the new remote doesn't unlock either door?

Tapped into the wire not cut it. The key only unlocks the drivers door. 02s don't have a key for the passenger side. The remote will unlock it for the 1st 10-15 seconds after you lock it. Once the alarm arms, it won't unlock. Once you turn the key on in the ignition it clears the alarm and it will lock or unlock again until the alarm arms again. I did notice today that of you are in the car and the alarm is armed and you open the door it will unlock the passenger door. I'm thinking if there's a wire that can be tapped to send that signal that the handle as been pulled and that may unlock it all. Don't know which of the 30 wires that lead to the imobilzer and I don't know which one it is.

Brown wire, green stripe, white bands (BN/GN/WH) for the inside door handle microswitch (ground contact).

Now, another question: is it unlocking when you pull on the handle a bit, or when the door actually unlatches at the mechanism?

I'm wrong. Just played with it some more. Sitting in the car, locking it and setting the alarm, pulling the handle sets the alarm off. Stick the key in the ignition, turn the key, and it clears it.

It gets more and more frustrating. The only way I could think to fix it would be to trick the imobilzer into think the ignition is on for a second. Not sure that can be done without the key close by though.

One more thing. When it's locked and you hit the unlock button, it turns the interior light on like it should. Just won't unlock.

Still, if you can unlock it with the key in the door once armed, you should be able to do it remotely since the module is just closing the circuit, same as the key. I'll have another look at the wiring diagram...there is one more wire to try. When you unlock it at the door with the key, do you hear the lock/unlock actuator activate?

Ok. Thanks for all your help. It really helps me to have someone who has such knowledge. I can follow a basic schematic and cut and solder. But this car is a lot more complex then the VWs I'm used to.

http://youtu.be/kyEypH9qlB8 That's strange. Seems that turning the key does not unlock the passenger door or disarm the alarm either. Could something be wrong with my imbolizer?

The remote door lock mechanism just grounds one side of the circuit. Check for voltage on the other side when the alarm is on. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Please forgive my ignorance and lack of having a schematic. How do I check for voltage on the positive side?

That is odd. I can hear the actuator activating, so the immobilizer is getting the unlock signal from the door lock mechanism. My first WAG is something amiss in one of the door lock mechanisms (bad microswitch, possibly passenger door closed).

Quotes source post: 462951

Actually you just check that negative signal wire for 12 volts or battery voltage when the alarm is on. Grounding that wire will lock or unlock the door. In attempt to clarify, when the alarm is on check the negative signal wire, you should see battery voltage when it is not grounded. If there is no battery voltage, that is where your issue is. I think for whatever reason there's no power to the door locks when the alarm is on. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

1.4 volts coming out of both the lock and unlock signal, no matter if the alarm is armed or not.

Not good.

Further testing shows that the window doesn't drop when the passenger door is opened. Makes a sound like it does, but in fact does not drop. May be getting closer. Particlewave you may be on to something.

Played more and did a bit of googling. The window isn't dipping because the regulator is bad. Also, seems that the fuel door lock actuator is toast. It doesn't lock. However, as much as I want them to be, none of theses things are why the alarm is causing it not to unlock.

At immobilizer: BU/RD/BK door safe, pass. = BU/RD, driver side BN/GN door contact, pass. = BR/GR/WH, driver side BU/WH door locked, pass. = BU/WH/BN, driver side All should show ground when the microswitch is closed. I'll confirm how they should operate when I get a chance, but probably not until tomorrow.

I truly appreciate all your help. Thank you for going out of your way to help me with what has been one of the biggest frustrations on my car.

Quotes source posts: 463035, 463092

Glad to help. My findings have been added to the quote below:

Thank you. I will check these as soon as I get the chance. While researching last weekend I did discover that the passenger side regulator is shot. What's most curious to me about it not unlocking is that when you hit the unlock button, it does illuminate the interior lights. So it is getting the signal from the key, just not working properly. I have also noticed that if I unlock it manually it doesn't unlock the passenger side, and when I open the door it sets off the alarm.

Took the car to my Indy shop for an unrelated issue. It had been smoking out of the passenger side scoop since the rebuilt engine was installed. Turned out to be a bad spark plug tube seal. However, while it was there I had him pull all the alarm/central locking codes. He says there were multiple codes and wrote me up a work order. Haven't picked the car up yet, but I'll report back with their findings. Should shed some light on whatever is wrong.

Well, here are the trouble codes. List is a mile long.

Yikes...looks like a bad door lock mechanism is behind some of it. Probably passenger side, based on your previous posts. Maybe Woody can get you one at a decent price. That should solve your locking issue.

I'll try that 1st. Andrew at the Indy shop seems to think the CLU/immobilizer are the issue and suggested I send it to ECU doctors. He says they use them all the time and have had great experiences with them.

That easily could be the issue, as well. They will code a good immobilizer with your existing immobilizer's coding to match the car. I think they charge about $500 for that.

I was playing around on Amazon this morning and came across this: Car Remote Keyless Entry System With HAA Flip Key Remote Controls And Outside Code Learning Button And LED Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RAI0P9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WeY4vbNCE9Y0Z Same unit, with a Porsche/VW key blank attached to the remote.

Quotes source post: 463962

That looks nice can those blanks be cut to fit our cars? Just an FYI, I used a place called S.O.S. Diagnostics to repair my immobilizer and they charge around $525.00 or $495.00 on ebay. I guess mine is fixed but my key fob still doesn't work, but maybe that's in the fob itself. They do sell programmed keys for around $200.00 but they need your immobilzer to do that or just a replacement key without the fob for $45.00.

Yes, it's the exact same key blank. It is missing the little "pill" that goes in it that communicates with the immobilizer. However, it should be fairly easy to move your existing one to the new key, and it's only about $20 to have a locksmith cut the key to match your existing one. If your immobilizer isn't damaged, this would be a good way to replace a broken or non functional remote like Particlewave did.

Oh, and I can't find that seller on eBay.

Quotes source post: 464201

That's a great idea, I think I'll be doing that. It would be nice to have keyless entry and I need another key, I only have one so if I lose it I'm you know. The seller on ebay user name is sos-101. Here's the ebay link, it looks like he raised his prices to $545.00, I paid $495.00 a few weeks ago. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porche-Boxster-911-996-PAS-M535-Alarm-System-and-Programming-/261993196096?fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3APorsche%7CM odel%3ABoxster&hash=item3d0002ea40&vxp=mtr Thanks for the reply!

Quotes source post: 463962

Nice find! I'm not a fan of the flip key because of how far it sticks out of the ignition, but I may have to try it anyway.

Let me just start by saying this is great info, I too did not have a remote for the 99 boxster and now I do thanks to you!:dance:

Nice I'm glad that this is getting some use!

Just got mine from the post office. It has a install instructions like this:

Just got mine from the post office. It's got install instructions like this: Couple of questions. 1. Do I just use Fig 3 negative trigger? So in my case I would have to attach Blue and Yellow/Black wires to the cars ground and Brown to cars Brown/white and Yellow to cars Brown/red? 2. Where I can get easily +12v in the car? 3. How about the trunk actuator? There is only Trunk release output (Purple). Do you know to where I should attach that in the car? And how do I know if it is positive or negative output? I think it might be positive so I would need a relay there. Big thanks to you guys in advance!

I can't remember what color it is off the top of my head, but 12v + comes in to the immobilizer. It's red and can't remember if it has a stripe or not.

http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/PORSCHE%20BOXSTER%201997-2002.pdf

Just a bump to get this awesome DIY back to the top for our newer members. Still on my to-do list.

Quotes source post: 530466

Just do it! The range on this thing is nuts! I'm not a great judge of distance, but it has to be at least 200ft...possibly twice that. I know it's at least double the range of my wife's Mazda and my sons Volvo. I think that is likely due to the fact that the fob uses a 12V battery vs the 3V button cells in most factory units. 2 years later and I'm still on the original battery and no noticeable decrease in range.

Quotes source post: 472906

Hello, I know it's an old thread but the wiring colors on mine are the same as the ones in this post. Does anyone know how it should be wired? I got the parking lights to work properly but that's it, it's not locking or unlocking. I probably have it wired wrong. If the immobilizer isn't working correctly would that matter? I don't think it would but just checking. I had mine repaired but who knows, if it's really working correctly. Any help is appreciated.

You want to use diagram "C". 1) On the aftermarket keyless entry module, ground the blue wire and the yellow wire with black stripe. 2) Connect the keyless entry module's brown wire to the OEM immobilizer's brown wire with white stripe for lock. 3) Connect the keyless entry module's yellow wire to the OEM immobilizer's brown wire with red stripe for unlock. Do not cut the OEM immobilizer's lock and unlock wires. Just tap into them.

Thanks particlewave, that's a big help and thanks for the original post! It would be nice to have keyless entry working on the car.

Thanks particlewave, I really appreciate it and thanks for your original post. It will be nice to have keyless entry working on the car hopefully.

I finally got mine working. The locking button wasn't working on the fob. I had the wiring wrong, I had it hooked up to the brown wire with a gray stripe, instead of the brown wire with a white stripe. It looked like a faded white stripe to me, lol. I was so glad when I saw that the correct wire and knew I found the problem. If you don't want to take the seat out of the car, you can unbolt it and move it forward enough to get to the immobilizer. That way you don't have to unplug the seat so you don't have to worry about setting off any codes like the airbag code. It's a pretty easy install in hindsight as long as you have the wiring correct. It's probably a 30-60 minute job if you don't screw up like I did. There are a total of 8 connections and 3 are grounds if you don't hook up the trunk release which I didn't. I noticed too my horn beeps once after locking it, just like the factory one and the lights flash once when locking and twice when unlocking. Thanks again particlewave for your help!

Quotes source post: 531560

That's great to hear! Unless you hooked up the horn function on the aftermarket keyless entry, the beep means something is not closed or secure. It's usually the center console lid.

Quotes source post: 531621

Hi particlewave, thanks for that information. I did not hook up the horn function and didn't realize the beep meant something's not closed. My frunk was not latched, so that must have been why it beeped. I'll have to check that out! That's good to know.

I never did get mine to function properly. I did learn a few things. 1. My window regulator was shot, and that's why the window wouldn't drop 2. The microswitch and led in the drivers door were not hooked up. They are now. 3. The gas door lock actuator in my car is broken. You can hear the motor on it spin but the hear seems to be striped. I have a new one I just need to install it. 4. I'm not 100% certain, but I THINK that's why the car won't unlock with the key. The lock is isn't sensing it hit the limit in either direction and is giving an error code for both. Am I way off base with my thinking or is that a possible solution?

A faulty gas door lock actuator won't prevent the door locks from working. I'd start by grounding the lock and unlock wires at the immobilizer to see if the door locks work properly. If they do, the problem is in the door latch mechanism or the wiring between it and the immobilizer. Edit: I forgot about all of your issues and related codes. I'd still start with the grounding test and see/report what that does. Did you ever test or replace the door latch mechanisms?

I have checked the microswitches on the inside door handles. I have not checked the switches at the locks. Honestly I was frustrated with it last time I worked on it, so I haven't really messed with it much in the last year or two. It was only when I put the new window regulators in last week I decided to mess with it again. I checked the door handle microswitches and realized that the passenger side interior handle switch wasn't hook up. It's fixed now. I'll play with it some this weekend. What's the most curious part is that it locks and unlocks with the remote just fine until the alarm arms about 20 seconds after it's locked. Then it won't unlock anymore.

Hi I have a 99 2.5 and I'm installing keyless entry and mine is doing exactly as you describe. I have run a supply directly from battery so rules that out. Also I ran a wire from brown / red to earth and nothing but as soon as you use the key (only fitted to drivers door) you can lock/unlock until the alarm/immobiliser disables it

Quotes source post: 531731

What I'm thinking of doing is running a temp supply to actuator as the unit still grounds just need to know what wire feeds it

I replied to you on Facebook, Craig. If can lock/unlock with the key, then there's no reason that the keyless entry module wouldn't work. Can you post pictures of the instructions that came with it and a close up of the wires you tapped for all connections?

Quotes source post: 532283

Put photos on Facebook as easier. I'm having the exact symptoms as switchcomb. As he needed to reverse the unlock/lock function. ( also tried a different remote kit to rule that out)

Quotes source post: 531560

I was thinking about wiring (connecting) the trunk release which I haven't done. I've read the previous posts covering that but I was wondering if installing a relay is necessary and if so can it be installed under drivers seat? I did pull the cover off of my unit and it looks like there are 3 relays in there. I just don't want to damage the unit, I have a relay I can use if I have too. Any insight is appreciated.

Quotes source post: 533099

Do you hear a click from the unit when you press the trunk button? If yes, then it's on a relay already.

Quotes source post: 533123

Good point! I don't hear anything when I press the trunk button, so I'll assume there is no relay for it. Thanks for your help particlewave!

If you need help adding the relay, just ask. It will be fine under the seat.

Quotes source post: 533164

Thanks for the offer! I do need help with the wiring of it, I have a Bosch 5 pin relay I was going to use. I know I don't need to use all 5 pins, probably 4 pins? I really don't know much about the working of relays. I've watched a few videos but I'm still unsure of how to wire it. Thanks!

Can you test the purple wire to see if it's 12V+ or ground when the trunk button is pressed on the remote ?

Quotes source post: 533217

It appears to be ground, I checked it with a test light.

Ground when the remote button is pressed, but nothing (no light) when it's not pressed?

Quotes source post: 533232

That is correct!

Quotes source post: 448703

Looks like healthservices already drew up a diagram In his diagram, where it says "to aftermarket keyless signal wire", attach your purple wire from the keyless entry module. I'd do what he did and mount the relay in the trunk, right next to the actuator. This seems easiest. You'll cut the blue/black wire in 2 places: at the immobilizer where you'll connect your purple wire, and at the actuator, where the blue black/wire coming into the trunk will now be connected to your relay (pin 85), and the switched ground from the relay (pin 87) will be connected to the blue black wire on the actuator.

Thanks for the quick reply, I really appreciate all your help! I did see his diagram and I think you're right the trunk seems the best or maybe the only way to go. The red wire from the actuator would need to be tapped into relay (pin 86), so I'm not sure how you would do that from under the seat. Thanks again particlewave, you're a great asset to this forum!

Quotes source post: 531635

I am wrong. The passenger door is the one that wasn't hooked up. I pulled the seat and played with things some today. If I ground out the blue with a black stripe wire, the rear trunk opens as it should. I can't find a wire on the remote box that grounds and opens the trunk. Also, in playing around today, I realized that I'm almost certain the microswitch in the drivers door has failed. When you lock the car, it doesn't lock the other doors as it should, and when the windows are rolled down, holding the key on the locked position will not roll the windows up. However, they will roll down when holding it in the unlocked position. I wish the schematic for this car was a little easier to read. I'm ok with electronics, but this is just on the edge of my comfort zone. Anyway, how do I test that microswitch?

Do you have a DVM with continuity check? If not, a simple test light will work. The best way would be to disconnect the door harness at the door jamb and test every switch from there. The pins on the door jamb connector should be numbered, but I can't check until tomorrow. Let me know what you have for testing and I'll write up some instruction for testing everything (test will be the same for both doors and I suggest doing both). The test shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, but you'll really need a second person to pull the levers and turn the key while you probe the contacts.

I do have a DVM. I really appreciate all your help so far. Thank you.

No problem I'll write up some test procedures late tonight. Won't have time until then.

Door Latch Microswitch Testing Disconnect battery. Open door fully and remove T20 Torx screw from bottom of connector. Push connector up to release the top latch and pull the connector assembly out from door frame. Push tabs on both sides of the bottom of the connector while pulling it down to unlock the cam. Inset a flat blade screwdriver and gently pry the cam lock down to fully release it, then separate the door side connector from the car side. The are 3 connectors inside; the main connector for the larger round pins and 2 smaller connectors. The large connector is designated "S". The small black connector is designated "A". The small white connector is designated "B". You will be using the S5 pin on the larger connector and the pins on the smaller black connector only. Set your DVM to continuity check. 1) Door Contact Place one probe in S5 (common) and the other probe into A8 (you may need to use a paperclip or small wire inserted into the connector as the holes are very small in the 2 smaller connectors). With the door latch open, you should read continuity. Use a screwdriver to close the door latch (should look like the picture below). You should now read no continuity. Keep the latch closed for now. 2) Inside and Outside Door Handles Insert one probe into A8 and the other into A3. With the door latch closed, you should read no continuity. Pull the inside door handle slightly (not enough to release the door latch) and you should read continuity. Repeat for the outside door handle (ensure the latch is still closed). Pull the handle fully to release the door latch, then use the screwdriver to push the latch fully open. Keep one probe in A3 and place the other into S5. You should read continuity. 3)Key Cylinder Function Place one probe into S5 and the other into A2. You should read no continuity. Insert the key into the door lock and turn to LOCK position. You should read continuity. Place one probe into S5 and the other into A6. You should read no continuity. Insert the key into the door lock and turn to UNLOCK position. You should read continuity. Repeat for passenger door, minus the lock cylinder test.

Wow. Those are very detailed and concise directions. That's exactly what I needed and I really appreciate you taking what must've been hours to type them up.

No trouble. Between doing the testing myself, adding text to the pictures and typing it up, maybe an hour. I figure it will be a good resource for the community. I've been meaning to do it for quite a while, anyway. The wiring diagram is not very clear and it's good to know what's going on in there. There were still 2 contacts that I couldn't test. The "door safe" and "lock" contact (not the lock cylinder lock). I think they are probably tied to the latch motors to let the car know when the latch is locked out when the car is in motion. I'm really not sure. Seems like the motors will need to be powered to test them and you cant do that easily. I'll do some thinking on it and try to test more next time I get the car out. I will have to pull the connector anyway because the "B" connector on the car side got pushed in and I couldn't fish it out of the frame before it started to rain. That connector is for the power mirror adjust.

..........

Finally had time to do all those tests. The door lock mechanism on the on the drivers side is bad. No continuity at all locking or unlocking. Now I know where to start.

Correction. When locking there is no continuity between s5 and a2 where there should be. Woody says $50 plus shipping. Looks like that's at least part of the solution. While I had my tools out and was in a work on the Boxster mood, I finally replaced the fuel door actuator. What a pain in the ass. I've been dreading doing it for a while. I looked on the package it came in. November of 2015.

Quotes source post: 533927

Let's hope the replacement latch solves your issues!

Well, the new mechanism came from Woody this week, and I finally had the time to install it today. The CLU still doesn't unlock after the alarm has armed. About 29 seconds after it's locked. It does however, now roll the windows up and down with the key like it should. Have to keep digging.

Did you test both doors?

Yes. Tomorrow I'll shoot a video and show you what alarm is doing.

Quotes source post: 535501

what model no. Is your immobiliser as I have the exact symptoms. Had to reverse polarity on the keyfob to get it to unlock/lock but as soon as immobiliser kicks in nothing. Key only opens drivers door until I put key in and turn ignition on then I can use key to unlock rest of the system or remote

M535. The key fob will lock and unlock the car fine for about the 1st 30 seconds. Then when the alarm arms it won't do it anymore. However, when you press unlock, it does light the door lights and the dash lights. When you unlock it manually with the key and open the door the alarm goes off until you turn the ignition on.

That's the long list of codes my immobilizer is throwing. Durametric won't clear them so I have no idea which ones are still an issue, and I don't have access to durametric. I had my Indy shop pull the codes the last time they worked on it.

Quotes source post: 535568

What sticks in my mind is that we both have the exact same issue and that we have to reverse polarity on the lock / unlock. If you sit in the car with and open all the doors do they lock as soon as you start the car mine does ( not sure if it's supposed to though )

Do you also have an M535?

Quotes source post: 535663

No mine is a m543 looking at the wiring diagram and am wondering what and why are the key contacts reversed

Quotes source post: 535664

only drivers door has key

Quotes source post: 535664

So, you have the same behavior with the new immobilizer, Craig? That points to something on the car being wrong. Probably door latch issues. I still think you both have bad door latches (probably on both doors). Also, the connectors in the door frames are known points of failure. Moisture can get in and corrode the pins/sockets. They can be cleaned with contact cleaner.

Quotes source post: 535666

yes same issues with new immobiliser not had chance to dig any further with car other than test that I get an earth at clu when turning key for lock/unlock

Quotes source post: 535666

I haven't taken the passenger side apart yet, but the drivers side on my car wasn't corroded at all.

Quotes source post: 535722

Does every one else's lock as soon as you turn ignition on

I've never noticed. I'll have to check.

Quotes source post: 535818

Spoken to a couple of owners and theirs does not lock as soon as you turn ignition on. Also mk4 golf share same locks as early boxster however not confirmed this

I can confirm it is a VW part. It has a VW of France stamp right on it. I don't think it's a MK4 part though, they wouldn't have a window drop switch. Also, my car does not lock when the ignition is turned on, but it does lock itself while being driven.

[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.] https://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/IMG_37321494008289.jpg

Quotes source post: 535818

Is there a part no. That you can cross reference as the golf ones are £18 brand new

Did some googling. It's not the same. Very similar though. I found this: VWVortex.com - MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!! The mechanism I replaced is still sitting on my workbench, so I took it apart. Tested all the microswitches in it, and they all worked fine. The circuit board is covered in some sort of orange glue. My guess would, it was a fix VW rolled out to address exactly what he found. Broken solder connections. For fun I'm going to resolder the whole board and test it. What could it hurt? May do the same on the passenger side.

Well that's 1 issue cleared locking doors when ignition on is a dealer option

Quotes source post: 536338

any luck sesn

I haven't had time to dig into the PCB on the mechanism. Been working like 70 hours a week. However, with all the extra work, I finally had the money to order a PC based laptop and durametric. Just ordered it about an hour ago. With it, I think I can dig a little deeper.

Well, my durametric cable came today. I hooked it up and read the codes. There were 10 or 12 of them. Like a dumbass, I cleared them before I screen shot it. None have returned yet. What's weird though is none of the activations would work on the alarm module. I only played for about 10 mins. This weekend I'll dig farther.

Well, some of the codes came back. I downloaded the diagnostic manual and can't find the flow chart for error code 60 or 49.

Hi had a chance to play today did all switch testing all ok all connections good. I have the same mechanism as you Sean cm2. Still no luck once the Immobiliser kicks in loose all power until I open with key and turn ignition on

Found this website scroll down to section 90 for Immobiliser fault finding v12.dyndns.org

Has anyone been able to figure this out? My factory remote recently gave up the ghost as well and I turned to Ebay for an aftermarket solution. I have an 02 Base and after wiring up the unit, I can also get the doors to lock and unlock. Unfortunately, similar to the previous posts, once the dash LED kicks on (30 seconds after the door locks), I cannot unlock the doors using the remote. I have an M535 immobilizer. Thanks in advance.

That actually makes me feel better. Maybe it’s something in the M535 that causes it not to function the way it would with an m531.

I know I'm repeating myself, but it shouldn't be any different than locking and unlocking using the key in the door. If the key didn't work in the door after 30 seconds, that would cause some serious issues. I wish one of you guys were closer to me so I could solve this thing once and for all.

Quotes source post: 569300

That makes 2 of us.

Quotes source post: 569300

Yep, definitely something to do with the fact that it's an M535. I can unlock the driver door manually with the physical key but I have to put the key in the ignition within 10 seconds or the alarm goes off.

Mine does exactly the same thing.

Sean - do you still have that list of trouble codes?

I can pull them when I get home from work.

I can see it now. The picture wasn't showing up last night. I was going through the 2000 or so pages of the workshop manuals and thought I'd do some more checking. I doubt any light will be shed, though...and it looks like you have already looked in them.

Quotes source post: 569314

That is normal if you don't / can't use the keyfob to open the doors. You have to turn the key in the doorlock to the right for approx. 10 secs and hold it there. Than turn the key left and the central locking system will open the car. Also the alarm system is deactivated. You can try to resync the keys to get the original keyfobs to work again. Regards, Markus

Quotes source post: 571378

Or you could just unlock normally and insert the key within 10 seconds...seems like this would be the easiest route in most cases.

Quotes source post: 571379

Difference is, that the alarm system is still activated, which leads to a lot of DTCs.

Quotes source post: 571379

Thanks exactly what I have to do - unlocking with a physical key and inserting the key into the ignition within 10 seconds. Unfortunately, the remote doesn't unlock once the alarm arms. Only the interior lights light up. None of the key resyncing procedures I've tried have worked...and I've tried all of them.

Quotes source post: 573647

This is exactly what mine does.

Quotes source post: 573649

Sounds like its normal for our cars. Just wish one of us can figure a way around it.

Quotes source posts: 569294, 569297

Mine is the M535, so that's not it.

Quotes source post: 573653

Whelp, there goes my theory...the mystery continues.

Quotes source post: 573655

I have a thought. Before the system arms, the doors can be unlocked by the aftermarket remote, but the gas cap door remains locked. Do you guys know which wire triggers the gas cap door?

Blue/green/red (blue wire, green stripe, red bands) for lock and blue/yellow/red for unlock (the same wires lock/unlock the front and rear trunk levers on models with release levers vs buttons).

I ran into some money. I’m going to start trying to replace and diagnose this issue. I found a PDF of the original diagnosis chart. Complete with values and what to test. Car gets a new top on Thursday and when it comes back I’ll dig in. I suspect one or both of the lock mechanisms has failed. The diagnostic chart thankfully tells you how to tell. They’re 350-400 bucks.

Quotes source post: 573647

Regards, Markus

I called ECU Drs yesterday. I’m going to send it off to them. They’re going to verify it’s functioing properly, and program an extra key for me. As soon as it gets back from having the new top installed I’ll send the CLU and ECU to them.

Ordered new door locks yesterday and sending the CLU and ECU to ECU drs this weekend. Wish me luck.

Passenger door lock is in. No change. Will report back after I replace the drivers side. None of the activations in durametric work still. About to box up the immobilizer and send it out.

Ive owned this car since December of 2013. I finally get the time, money, and things sorted to send the CLU and ECU to ECUDoctors, ship it off yesterday (from VA to FL) and of course, there’s a hurricane. Shipping pretty much shut down. Box is sitting in Laurel MD and will be there who knows how long. I just want to know what’s wrong with the car. I’ve waited long enough. I know, trivial for those that are in the path of the hurricane, but I’m being selfish for a min.

Quotes source post: 579236

Oh, that sucks...

Well, they got it today. Got an email around 1130 that they were looking at it. Never heard from them and they close at 4. I’m really curious to find out what’s wrong with it. I’m also having them reprogram the original key and sell me an additional remote.

ECU doctors is done and it’s on the way back. They replaced the immobilizer. As I knew, it had water damage. They were able to get a new key to work with the old unit, but the codes it was throwing they believe are because of the water damage. They programmed and new key for me while they had it. It should be there on Tuesday. Hopefully the issues will all be solved.

Did they give any clues about what the actual issue was? Unlikely, but would be nice to know.

They didn’t offer any insight. However, the new immobilizer is brand new. It works perfectly with the Porsche key, it does the exact same thing it was doing before with the 3rd party key. So my theory is that perhaps this particular model of M535 isn’t compatible with it for some reason. There are 2-3 M535s. They actually were able to get the old immobilizer to work fine, they just wouldn’t warranty it due to the water damage. Nevertheless, I now have a functioning key, and valet key.

Hi Guys, I have read this whole thread twice but cant get my door locks to work. I have a 2003 base, I also have the M535 unit. I have the tail lights successfully working when I hit the lock/unlock on the remote but thats it. I found the brown/white wire for sure but there seems to be two brown/red wires? Is the wiring different for the 2003? thanks in advance, Dave

Quotes source post: 593934

........ Yes

Quotes source post: 593944

lol thanks, I was hoping someone could help me out and share a schematic or maybe know which wires that I need to tap into?

Quotes source post: 593934

The wiring for this is the same across all 986 model years. There should only be one brown/red wire. There is a brown/red/black wire (brown wire, red stripe, black bands), so make sure you didn't get them mixed up.

Quotes source post: 593954

worked on the car again yesterday and got it figured out, the little splice clamps i used didnt pierce the wire insulation the whole way. lock/unlock and trunk all work now. thanks for all the help

Cool. I had/have mine soldered and wired directly together, and while it would lock and unlock, as soon as the alarm armed, it wouldn’t unlock.

Quotes source post: 594435

So I guess I kinda jumped the gun on my keyless working fine because everything works for like 15 seconds after that it wont unlock or lock the doors?? I can stand there and hit the lock unlock buttons and pop the trunk as long as I do it within 15 seconds, after that I have to use my key in the door. Any ideas?

Quotes source post: 594590

Where did you get power for the unit?

Quotes source post: 596847

Particlewave I tapped into the big red power to the seat

There's your problem. The seats are powered by the "consumer switched off" circuit. It's a circuit that supplies power to peripheral devices like seats and mirrors. When the car is off and doors closed, this circuit goes inactive after 10 minutes or so and stays that way until a door is opened. When you lock the car, the circuit goes inactive within 10-15 seconds. In other words, the car is cutting power to your aftermarket keyless entry unit. I suggest getting constant power at a known good source, such as the current distributor.

Quotes source post: 596861

Particlewave, thanks I will try and switch the power source in the next couple of days and let you know what happens. Thanks again for all the help.

Quotes source post: 596861

So I changed my power sorce to one that is 12v constant and same thing the after 15-20 seconds the keyless remote will not unlock the doors. You can hear the relays in the after market unit clicking but the doors will not unlock however for some reason I can pop the trunk??

I've read this several times, but I am a bit confused. It seems like some users have issues with setting it up, is it because of immobilizer? Here is what I have. I bought porsche with missing circuit board in the remote. I've figured that since it will cost about $300 at least to get the circuit board and then to get dealership to set it up. I want to get control remote, something like this https://www.amazon.com/FICBOX-Universal-Vehicle-Keyless-Central/dp/B01HB5M5R2/ref=sr_1_42?crid=2OR0S8X8KHDM&keywords=keyless+control+remote&qid=1560636914&s=gateway&sprefix=keyless+control+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-42 Then I'll have to connect some wires to ground, some to constant power, and some to lock/unlock wire. Is that correct? Or there is something more complicate? Also, will I be able to set up my trunk or frunk? I have release cables for trunk and frunk, nothing electronic.

I'm too lazy to dive into it, but I believe it is much more complicated than this. The various systems communicate with one another through the CAN bus on late 986es and before that I also believe that they communicated with a protocol rather than by simply setting voltages on pins. So the engine will refuse to start unless the immobilizer sends a message over the CAN bus (or earlier bus) that it that it is OK.

Quotes source post: 597709

Good thought, but CANBUS is in no way involved with the door locks.

Thanks for fast replies guys. So mine is 1998 boxster. If I buy a keyfob that particlewave has on the youtube video and install JUST LIKE he did, will it work? Or, there is an unknown issue that causes some key fobs to work and some not and its still unknown what the issue is?

Quotes source post: 597726

There does seem to be some issues with later cars, but your '98 should be fine.

Thanks a lot.

I finally got my hands on the project. Took about 5 minutes and everything is done. Since I got identical system to the one healthservices used, I did installation exactly the same. I was a bit confused which power wire he used as it says lead to immobilizer, but doesn't say which one. It was the fattest red wire on the right of immobilizer, I think its mostly red with a bit of brown. All works, only thing is after I lock the car with remote, after about 5 seconds, I hear a quiet beep from the car. Not sure why, but so far so good.

Quotes source post: 598942

Nice work!

Quotes source post: 597759

I have a 2002 Boxster S. I'm not sure which immobilizer. Are you saying this cheap universal remote kit may not work on mine? I have one on the way. It would be nice to know if this is a lost cause before I dive in. Has anyone gotten this cheap universal remote to work to work on anything as late as a 2002?

I have got an alarm and I only have 3 wires for the doors. Will this be one neg and two wires for open and close? Also, I only seam to have one wire for the trunk, is this right? Thanks.

So, on seeing this thread and with my key-fob recently expiring, I ordered a kit and fitted it last night. Has anyone gotten to the bottom of the 15 second issue? Same as a few of you guys, my kit works perfectly until the Security system arms and once the led starts the slow flash, the central locking deactivates. The kit is getting 12+volts all the time and the relays within the kit are still flashing the lights as normal, but no lock function. Further to that, and before fitting the kit, the manual key in the door lock, will activate the central locking faultlessly, raising and lowering the windows as it should, until the Security arms. Once that happens, the central locking deactivates and the key only unlocks the drivers door. This triggers the countdown to get the key into the ignition. On doing that, I hear the locking actuators activate again and get a click in the drivers door. Is this typical? Or is it likely that I have a faulty micro-switch within a door lock?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/JOM-7105-Universal-Central-Radio-Remote/dp/B003QGHALC Looking at the wiring (number and colors) this one appears to be the same logic in a different form factor, but comes with a switch blade type keyfob. Got it all wired up and working thanks to this great thread. Now on to get the transponder chip and (insertable) key blade cut. My kit came with 2 incompatible VW blades and they can be ordered from jom.de, but have something lying around that may work. Will see.

Hi Guys, fitted one of these today on an 04 MY using the BN/WH & BN/RD wires under the seat at the immobiliser and everything works a treat. However, 5 minutes after locking the car it cannot be opened using the new remote (as described by others here). The unit operates but the car does not respond. Anyone resolved this issue? TIA, Darren

Quotes source post: 624085

I suspect that you must have tapped into a switched 12-volt wire to power your unit, that turns off after a few minutes, such as the trunk light. Best would be to put a voltmeter on the +12V wire, lock the doors and see if the voltage drops after 5 minutes...

Quotes source post: 624131

Sorry should have started originally that I had same thought and thus wired direct to +12V at battery to double check - sadly, same outcome ;o(

Hi guys i joined this forum so i could let you you know how to fix your issue of it no longer working after 15 seconds. My car is a 2001 Porsche 996 911 3.4 but this will also work for the 986 boxster. Please note my car RHD so my ecu is under my the passenger seat (left hand side of the car) Im unsure if its also on the same side on a US car The ecu has two main connecter plugs. One plug has inputs into the ECU and the other plug is outputs. The problem you guys are having is that you have wired into the ecu input wires not output. I sorted my issue a couple of months ago but it has taken my account a while to activate so i will do my best to remember. Right first thing you need to do is read the instructions of your aftermarket alarm. You will be wiring it as Single point locking NOT negative ground locking. This means you will be wiring it as if you are wiring it to an actuator that will reverse the polarity of the wires when you press lock or unlock. The wires you are looking for go into the rearmost plug of your ecu. If you look at a porsche wiring diagram for your door lock, you are looking for the two wires that run the central locking motor in the lock. Mine were terminal A1 (Blue/Yellow) and A2 (Green/Red). Both front door locks are linked to the same two wires where they go into the ecu. If you look at the rearmost plug on your ecu you will see these two wires (Green/Red and Blue/Yellow). Please note: there are another pair of wires that are the same color but with a colour band round them It is NOT the banded wires. You need to cut the the two wires and then join them to your 3rd party alarm. You will be using the loom end of the wires you have cut NOT the end where it goes into the ecu. I have done my best to explain this. Let me know if i can be any more help

Scrappyloz can you post some pics please, I have a 2003 base boxster that I will try and rewire this spring. Thanks

Quotes source post: 630684

Sorry i have sold the car to a friend of mine but if you get stuck let me know

Quotes source post: 628598

so has anyone tried this yet?

I hate to necromance this old post, but it's the best one I found on the topic. I'd like to add another point of data to it and share some notes from my install. I have the M535 CU in my 2001 Boxster S, but my car wasn't optioned with the factory alarm system. When I bought my car, it came with two keys, one that was just the back half of the key with the immobilizer pill, and the other one a complete key but with a non-functioning transmitter. Needless to say, every attempt at fixing that transmitter or re-establishing communication with the car failed. I punted and went with one of these $15 aftermarket systems. I followed the instructions on page one of this thread, and I'm happy to report that on my car this works perfectly, even after extended time away from the car. My M535 (without the alarm) appears to not lock out the door locks function after a short period like some others reported here. So I'd say if you don't have the factory alarm, this won't be a problem. One more note is about the red wire with brown stripe. There are two wires in the forward bundle that look identical. I got the wrong one first, but no damage was done. Also, my alarm module came with a jumper I had to uninstall to make the unlock feature work. I hooked up the indicators to the unit by the two wires on the rear plug, and that works perfectly. One blink of the marker lights for lock, two blinks for unlock. Range is better than my OEM systems on my two Lexus' (Lexuses? Lexi?) I don't remember if I read it on here, but I did see a post that you could unbolt the seat and scoot it forward to make enough room without having to remove the seat from the car. That did work, but only after unclipping the wiring connector from the bottom of the seat. Don't unhook the harness, just unclip it from the bracket holding it in place. I've only had this unit in place for a few days, but so far I'm pretty impressed with it, especially at the price point of lunch at Chick-fil-a.

Mine still works great

Awesome DIY solution! Since you've successfully bypassed the need for dealer coding, have you considered adding a range extender to see how far you can push the remote locking distance? __________________ Combining power and compactness, the Nema 23 stepper motor is the ideal power solution for CNC machines.