996 Turbo Engine Removal

I’m having to remove the engine from my 05 996 Turbo due to an oil leak that’s not visible with the engine in. I’ve started and about half way through the disconnection process from the mother ship but have run into a couple of problems. Firstly the power steering lines …one pulls out easily but the other has one of those brass fittings (HP side) and it’s very low down so when the connector is undone it’s going to dribble Pentosin all over the engine until it’s drained all the residual in the tank and pump…any ideas on how to stop this happening? Secondly, the big push fit coolant hoses aren’t wanting to come out, clips are removed completely but they just don’t want to budge ..anyone got any tips on these? There’s no space around them really and the top lip is so thin it can’t be used as a lever even if you could get a tool in there. Photo shows both things as they’re right next to each other

Just remembered I had one of those brass fittings left over from doing the clutch on my C2 ..managed to separate it in the vice so I can use that hopefully once I’ve bunged the blue pipe up and crimped it tight.

That worked Now it’s those big push fit coolant hoses

Was gonna say bung the end of the tube with something appropriate

Not much help now, but I undid that pipe at the other end where it clips to the underside of the top of the engine bay. In term of the coolant hose. might worth seeing if you can get the end of a medium pry bar under the aluminium edge of the pipe. with a helper, one pry's and the other pulls upwards on the pipe. A few gentle taps with a hammer may help loosen the coolant crud that's holding it in. Don't hit it too hard though.

Yeah I'll try that if I can get someone but there's not a lot of room for 1 hand The intercooler pipes slid out really easily but these are stuck in like an Alabama tick ...anyone?

I have seen videos of people using the rubber strap wrenches used for oil filter removal and using them to grip onto the hose and rotate it to break the seal of the hose to the housing.

Hopefully once you get it out it’s not too big of a job to fix it

This is the area it’s leaking from so I’d imagine it’s one of those oil hoses

Strange that those pipes don't want to come out, I changed mine a few years ago as they are known to burst and mine pulled out easily! I'd spray some wd40 down the gap and let it soak for a while then give them a good waggle, you can't rotate them as the locating tabs are in grooves. Like I say they are known to burst so you might want to replace them anyway. I keep an eye on the American forums as they tend to have problems first, maybe because it's hotter there or because they tune and track them more, they have been saying for a while that the question mark shaped hose on the oil tank is often perished and to replace it any time the engine is out. Still very interested to see what it is on your low mileage car!

That's the one I think it might be , there's oil running down the starter cable/ conduit from up there but I can't see anything at all. It was properly pouring out, I wonder if a mouse has nibbled it. Tomorrow I'll get the aircon pump out and suspend it somehow.

Yes I was thinking it was unlikely to be a perished pipe with you having such low mileage, one of the pipes attaches with a big metal nut so possible thats come undone or a loose hose clamp or something, but yes a nibbled hose does seem much more likely !

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Jar opener or screwy lewy type thing to grip the pipe enough to twist gently back and forth to break any crust and slowy back it off?

Hi Monty, I’ve also had major problems getting the main coolant hoses off the engine, the issue is that the old o-rings have swollen over time. On the 996tt I ended up just cutting the hoses in half to get the engine out and having better access later - I ended up cutting the alloy hose fitting in half to get it out. On my GT3 after a lot of effort was able to remove the hoses undamaged, using lots of WD40 and prising up the fitting lip with large screw drivers and lots off pulling/wiggling.

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That's what I did , WD40 overnight but to get that between the 2 surfaces you have to raise it out a couple of mm. Lots of tugging and twisting although the drivers side is not easy to get a good hold of but I eventually managed to get a plastic pry tool under the flimsy edge and eventually after an hour or so they both just came out. I'm pretty sure the WD40 (thanks Mac) was helpful once you'd got it up those 2mm as the O ring is then being lubricated. Not sure what they cost but not cheap I'd imagine.