Anyone done ignition switch, UPDATED with easy DIY

I've not had time to research this yet but I wanted to get the opinion of the collective on here in advance. Last night I started the 996 and nothing happened on the first two turns of the key, third turn and the starter spun and engine fired up. I woke up this morning thinking it may be the ignition switch? My issue is I am driving to France tomorrow afternoon and I'm worried it may fail permanently while I'm away or even before I set off, so I want to buy one and carry it with me or if the job isn't too hard I may be able to get one and actually fit it before I leave? A few questions, how hard a job is it and how long does it take to replace? Once they start to fail, how long is it before they permanently fail? Also I seem to remember it also being a VW/Audi part, I need to get one by tomorrow at the latest so any pointers where to get one at short notice?

Hi Chris, there's a couple of threads on here, here's one; http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=1625581

Thanks, I'll check them out ASAP, just worried I may not get it done in time.

I picked up on deMorts how to guide on that link you posted :thumb: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=138859&highlight=# And before that I had a quick browse of a Youtube video that followed a similar procedure, so I now have a better idea of how to tackle this. I found a Meyle ignition switch for £7.74 that will be delivered today, cheap as chips. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meyle-[phone removed]-Ignition/dp/B006QY2LG0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IPLPT41ZLTN6 So I'm not sure whether to risk having a go at it tomorrow before I leave or risk not doing it but take the switch with me?

Good luck. :thumbs:

I have replaced my ignition switch - I ordered the part of Amazon - was about £9 delivered. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006QY2LG0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It took about 30 mins. Most of that time was removing the vent by the ignition switch, so you can get behind the switch to get it out. Wasnt a hard job, but is fiddly, as you need to be a contortionist..... I wouldnt have any qualms about doing it at the side of the road, if I had the part and tools with me.....so perhaps just take the part with you?

I do carry a fairly comprehensive tool kit around with me but if it only takes me an hour I would rather it be in my garage than at the side of the road, my concern is if I cause another issue doing it before I leave.

I agree, but I'd rather have other issues to fix in my own garage than at the side of the road. MC

:thumbs:

I'm a bit late here .. sorry .. Might i suggest just to be safe .. change the starter relay as well .. It's rare for these to fail but i have seen a Cayman literally at our garage being driven to clean and then it wouldn't start .. it was this relay . Start lock position 7 , board is behind the rear seats under the carpet and ally panel . Ignition lock .. you can't really break anything doing this .. some people crawl under the dash board and replace these .. too much hard work for me hence my post on how i do them . it's an hours job really and you are more than capable that's for sure ! Sods law it had to happen just before your trip

This is my dilemma, I have ordered it and will fit it just to eliminate it but I'm also mindfull that it could be something else that won't repeat itself until I'm already b**** deep in France. I've just got home so I'm going to stick my head under there and do a few starting cycles to see if it does or doesn't start every time?

It can be the ignition lock ( the contact block ), wiring ( i doubt this ) the starter relay ( very possible ) or the starter motor . Engine earth is a bit of a rare possible item but i'm pretty sure yours is fine .. it would have to be well and truly corroded to be that . At the end of the day as long as the dash lights come on then you can bump start it .. don't think yours is a tip is it ? I take it there was no click from the engine when it did not start ? if there was then its starter motor . I'll just add .. i'm not convinced on the ignition lock as that's an unusual way for them to fail but it's certainly worth replacing to be safe ... relay is something i would like replaced or swopped with something like heated rear screen , a/c compressor relay if you don't have one . Edit Just a separate thought as yours is a Targa .. all dry inside isn't it ? mainly passengers side and under the seat .. alarm cu there .

I have just been out and it started 10 times in a row c: So it makes me wonder if it was a one off dry joint or like you say a relay, good shout regarding swapping for another of the same type, I guess I won't know unless it does it again now No water ingress into the car, it's bone dry in there. I also removed the heater pipe that runs above your shins and had a look up but the ignition switch looks a bit of a pain to get to, I may still change it tkmorrow? My earth cables are new last years when I had slow starting issues so I don't think that will be the issue. When it didn't start there was no click or dimming dash lights which leads to believe that it wasn't sending any power to the starter motor.

If you have time then replace the ignition lock block .. if not just take it with you .. replace or swop out the relay though please ... heated screen or a/c i think are 4 pin relays and neither is needed that much compared to the starter . I replace the lock as per my post .. underneath .. man .. too much pain for me these days lol .

I will swap heated rear with starter relay just to eliminate. I hope it doesn't reoccur but will have all the tools (and switch) with me if I don't swap the switch out tomorrow.

Posting this as a separate item and not an edit .. A 4 pin relay has terminals 85/86 .. these are the switching on / off of the relay .. terminals 30/87 are the connections the relay joins together .. If you bridge term 30/87 it will be the same as the car doing it .. you basically bypass everything though .. by bridge i mean stick a wire across both terminals .. or a split pin .. it will get hot though . In the case of the starter it will spin over .. make sure it aint in gear !! Your emergency start if it all goes pear shaped .. as if this does not start the car then its the starter motor !. You will still need ignition key in the on position . EDIt .. a five pin relay will work in a four pin relay slot .

Great info once again dM, I'll have this thread on emergency standby if anything should happen.

Did mine a few months ago.... Technical difficulty - 2/10 Physically/Patience - 8.5/10 I removed the heater duct, lay a towel over the pedals, pushed the seat all the way back and reclined it fully. Shoes off, flipped myself upside down and rested my head on the pedals. Loosening those 2 screws was an absolute B*****D I had to mount a flat blade screwdriver bit on the end of a socket as every screwdriver I own was too long. I'm only 5' 8'' and have lady hands and wrists and I still struggled. Took me 2 hours I reckon. It was like painting the hallway through the letter box! Daz

Have a great trip and i'm sure this is a one off .. it happens .. chill

From looking at what I have today and just sticking my head up there tonigh it does look a proper faff. I do have a very tiny ratchet that takes screwdriver bits so I'm hoping that does the job.

Torch and a small mirror helps. Oh, and if your the wrong side of 40 a couple of pairs of glasses. Daz

You are a braver and more dextile man than i am that's for sure .. i tried this method when i first started many years ago .. it gave me a bad back so i went back to the porsche way of instrument cluster out .. remove the lock and do it on the bench . To be fair .. we have to replace the entire lock assembly and not just the electric block .. garages have to do things different as we warranty the work we have carried out . Either way though .. if you find a way that doesn't involve paying people like me then fair play .. that's why i post here :thumb:

There is one video on YouTube where the guy takes the side vent out to get better access, I may give that a go first

The alternative is follow my instructions from my post .. it's far easier i feel and how i do it .. i may be changing the entire lock but either way it's easier .. The only difficulty .. you have to bend the steering column cowling around the column to remove .. its plastic .. it will bend a lot is all i can say . Stick some tape , masking over the dash above the key position so the cluster doesn't mark the dash ... general .. be careful basically . Ok im off .. you know where i work if you need a chat .

Demorts right (as always) Instruments out is the industry standard although theres more bits to remove and put back. BUT! It saves your back, stops you feeling sick and whole less frustrating. I did mine in my small garage, lot's of swearing, sweating and huffin' and puffin' but all done and working in 2 hours. Daz

I have managed to get the ignition switch swapped over this afternoon, I went in through the vent and I have to say it was reasonably easy doing it this way and I only had to get under the dash upside down to remove the heater pipe and refit it afterwards, everything else was done from above. I started it around 12.15 and I was done before 1pm, just getting a screwdriver on the grub screws took 15 minutes of that time. This way is definitely the easiest way.

So now I have done it I thought it made sense to write how I did it. I removed the lower heater pipe by getting under the dash, this just pulls off at both ends I then undid the two T20 torx screws at the side of the air vent. And the headlight switch, just pull out the switch and push on the brass coloured tab and this will come off. Then there is another T20 Torx to remove inside the headlight switch, once undone pull the screw out with a magnet as it's in a deep hole. Pull the vent housing away towards you, pulling the door seal away will help get your finger behind the housing. and disconnect the headlight connector. Next I removed the inner heater vent pipe, one screw holding this on, it then drops down into the footwell. Once that pipe is removed you can see everything you need to get to and can get your arm inside where the grub screw heads are. Pull off the purple ignition switch plug and push to one side. Scratch the red paint that seals the grub screw heads. This is the little ratchet I have for getting into small spaces, I cracked both screws with this. Then finished off unscrewing with this, it is short enough to get in and turn with your fingers. Ignition switch just drops out when you have undone the grub screws far enough. I took one grub screw all the way out, don't do this, just undo enough to get the switch out. Easy Peasy

Legend :thumb:

I've just got back from 1000 miles to Paris and back and the issue didn't replicate itself once, I'm still not sure what the problem was and if it was just a one off fault somewhere but either way I'm glad it's not done it again and I know I don't have to worry about having an ignition switch problem in the future.

This a really usefull guide, thank you for posting it :thumb: Dave

This site is a curse and a remedy. This site is a curse and a remedy. It seems that someone does a new post that I read and within days my 996 C4S is cursed. One morning, as I arrived at work, the key was a little reluctant to come out of the ignition. That evening, as I drove home to my house in the sticks, leaving behind the bright street lights, I entered into total darkness and I realised I had no dip or full beam lights. The dash was lit up as usual, side lights and indicators worked but there were no wipers either. I instantly thought of this thread and fearing the worst, did not want to switch off the car incase it would not restart. I called my wife who met up with me and a I had very interesting 20 min drive following her home in darkness. In the garage at home, the key did not want to go back to the 'off' position and was difficult to remove. I searched up 911uk.com to find this thread and reread it. The symptoms seemed to fit with the curse. The VW part was ordered and the car parked up. A week later I had time to do the job, thanks particularly to infrasilver for the pics. I did it in about an hour, all through the side vent and below the dash. It was fairly easy even with my dinner plate hands. Trickiest bit was doing up the grub screws without being able to see. The grub screws only need to be slackened off, not completely removed. Now the key and the switch works easily and with the retrospectoscope I can see that it had been failing for a while. It used to be 'rubbery' feeling and there was a resistance to turning, all of which has gone, it's now delicate, mechanical and smooth. Thanks for the remedy. :thumb:

I'm glad the write up was of some use, I think it was easy doing it that way but hopefully mine won't need doing again now

Thanks for the thread above. My 996 had a host of intermittent electrical gremlins - petrol cap wouldn’t open, fan didn’t always work, stereo etc… reading this I realised what the problem was and changed the ignition switch (a fiddly little monkey). Everything is now working 100%. Can’t believe one small switch could throw up so many issues. Very pleased I read this and figured out the problem. A cheap fix! My neighbours are also pleased I worked out (eventually) that putting the key in, and turning the ignition to the first position stops the alarm going off when you disconnect the battery… every day is a school day.

I did my ignition switch last year as the AC power would not turn off when the key was removed. It didn't help, so I had to change the entire ignition lock. The switch itself was not too bad, but the lock was a major PITA. I ended up having to cut the old one as it would not release from the steering lock so took me a good 4 hours.

Quotes source post: 1398367

I’m looking for some help so please forgive cross-posting my own thread: R Thread '996.1 - Full electrical power - no crank / no start' 24 Jan 2026 Long time lurker/reader but unfortunately posting with an issue that I hope you guys can help with; Car has been starting, driving and running faultlessly. Used intermittently over recent months and on CTEK in garage when parked. Have gone to take the car out today, key turns easily with all electrical power and accessories operating as normal but no engine crank whatsoever. No other symptoms. Battery around 6 months old, no voltage drop. Previously had new Y cable. Searching the threads here I’m thinking it’s possibly the ignition switch - thoughts?? Looks like a little *****... RedSpecial_M96 Replies: 63 Forum: Porsche 911 996 (1997-2005) The write up and pictures you shared was excellent and so helpful, but sadly the new switch hasn’t fixed my issue…

@infrasilver i just followed your helpful guide to swap the switch on my 98, nice and easy, looks like it has been changed before as there was no wax on the grub screw, also a bit of plastic fell off the old one. I fitted a meyle replacement from vw heritage. My symptoms were same as yours it didn’t start twice and then did but the key wasn’t springing back, also I don’t think my cigarette lighter was working either which is is now Many thanks Paul

Excellent, Paul - that’s the same supplier I got my replacement from so hope it proves to be a good quality part. Unfortunately even though I successfully managed the swap it didn’t resolve my symptoms, however think I might have cracked it: U Post in thread '996.1 - Full electrical power - no crank / no start' 23 May 2026 Good result! Glad to hear you didn't have the same $$$ DME problem as I did! Uber996au

Looking to do this job soon - my car is build date 26/8/2003 so bang in the range where the switch design changes. Any suggestions other than pull the switch before ordering?

It was this one. Its an electrix brand so if google is correct then this is an aftermarket brand so changed already. Plus the red sealant had gone from the grub screws Meyle one ordered.