Damo's 996 c2 rust bucket to fast road / track car

Hello and welcome to my 2003 996 c2. I've done a decent amount of work to my 996 since I got it back on the 7th of September 2020 as a late 40th birthday present to myself and so I've decided to document some of what's gone on and what will go on in the future. Here it is as I got her from a chap in Hull. She had a rusty rear arch and needed a set of coffin arms all round and so agreed to buy for £10,500

welcome to your 996

Nice! Can’t grumble at £10.5k.

I'll be interested to see how you tackle the rear arch.

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Yeah, I really should not have bought it as it got worse quickly. The excitement of owning my 1st 911 got to me lol. a whole new 1/4 panel was needed..... So on the drive home I discovered the air con did not work and I also lost a little water and a quick peak up on a ramp it was easy to see why Broken air con pipe from the engine The rads had seen better days It also turned out that the water pipes from the engine had also perished coolant was leaking through them so new parts where order from design911 and the engine had to come out

I wonder how much a similar car would go for in 2024. Probably at least 15 grand. Quite like the looks of it. Lowering + Turbo Twists 2 + side skirts give it a sort of C4S look.

We ended up fitting, a low temp thermostat. new AOS, new brake lines, new aircon pipes, new coolant pipes new coolant radiators, and condensers and a centre radiator while we was at it. I say we. All the work was done by Simon Thorpe Motor services in Grimsby and so I don't have too many pictures from back then. Coolant pipe drips I also picked up a set of black alloys to try as it turned out the turbo twists I had was fakes from Italy. All back together

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yeah I really like the look. mk1 sides with the c4s bumper.

Have you got any pictures of the rusty rear arch?

Next up was a new number plate to suit the the 996. I just love the hips on these narrow body 996's. not to wide on the road but great to look at

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rusty arch pictures

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Oof yes, that's a good one! How bad was it inside?

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will get to it soon but it was very bad

With the 996 running smoothly with just the rust to sort I decided to get the rest of the body work polished to see if any other paint work was required before it heads off to slide fab for the rust repair works. I Also went back to the fake twists. It came out very well. I think I was back on stock suspension at this point to try get some better ride confirm with the roads being so bad around here. Thanks to obsession detailing Grimsby for the great work.

Unfortunately over the winter the 2nd hand stock suspension I got hold of blow it seals on the front to shocks so I took the opportunity to put my head in the sand with the rust a buy a load of other parts. I did have great fun driving in all weathers. Feal coilovers, 200cell cats, x51 sump and some service parts After several broken bolts I got everything change over

And it sounded amazing

I also fitted a PCCM plus and another set of alloys and a taco wing but had to do something about the rust so off to slide motorsport fab department it went At Slide motorsport with my 4th set of alloys too. 991 19ish alloys 1st look at the rust

Now the idea was to just cut off the lip but on attempting to do so we found a lot of filler so off came the 1/4 panel, As can see from the inside of the 1/4 the car had been crashed and repaired The resulting rust from the inner wing split was really bad. It was really really bad. I all most cried at this point but on with the project. I found the below for sale on ebay and made the trip in my t5 to collect it to use as a repair panel

what lurks beneath !

That's bad! I just repaired a lot of surface rust on the inside of the right side arch on mine. The plastic liner had rubbed through the underseal, so I had to remove all the underseal and surface rust, treat it and paint. A bit of a pain due to the location, but hopefully I managed to repair it before major damage like yours.

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indeed. no such thing as a cheap 911... sounds like a great save, hopefully yours will be all ok buddy.

While I was off getting the Panel Slide Motorsport continue with the repair work and also added some manifolds of which I had the fit EGT sensors into.

Now also the rear jacking point was also completely rusted out and had to be cut out

Now it was time to start adding new metal

Wow. Crusty indeed.

Damn that got spendy! You seem to be doing a great job though.

this thread...

You're not alone! I'm going to have to do a similar job to both sides of my car this year - I've previously replaced all the jacking points and had some 'temporary' arch repairs years ago, but now need to do a through job, which I've decided is both front wings, both full outer sills, both outer rear quarter panels, both outer-inner rear wheel arches. It will be using as much 'new' metal/panels for the parts to be welded in and as much 'new second hand used' bolt on panels... currently still amassing parts and cash so watching your thread with interest(!) bloody bad luck with how far into the main structure the rot has gone on yours at the back of the wheel arch, but at least its all thick flat sections that ultimately get hidden and you know that its now good

While the welding was on going and while reading other 911 forums I came across a thread of which gt3 PCCB's had been modified and then fitted to a c2 and despite the cost its something I really wanted. At the same time a full set of GT3 callipers a discs appeared on Facebook market place at £3500 in good condition along with another trip to a breaker yead to get a front hub. With the rears being an almost bolt straight on affair I started to put a plan together for the fronts copying what I saw on the other forum. Mounting up the disc, front calliper and hub Getting the custom offset stubs made We then had to slot the front calliper to ensure it could not twist on off set studs.

Slide Motorsport continued with putting the 996 back together before then starting on the PCCB fitment Off with the old callipers and starting the fitment of the PCCBs with custom made brake hoses by slide.

with the PCCB's now fitted up and the 996 all built up its was really looking like a 911 again and just needed a bit of paint so off to a local body shop. now I'm not going to state the name here as it ended up being a right fath and I would not recommend them. It took over 3 months longer than stated when booking in to get it painted but once I finally got it back it was looking decent. Before paint at slide motorsport Roof was painted due to rust forming from a bad stone chip on the edge of the wind screen. Now as I stated it was a fath with paint, took months longer than it should, he never picked up the phone and I ended up driving to the unit in order to chase but the guy, But he did refab my head lights free of charge as an apology which defiantly was appreciated but ignoring clients when your running behind instead of just stating the truth is terrible. before After Back at slide to finish off putting the side skirt on, alignment and get ready for the long drive to 24hr Leman.

In the prep for leman I did a few last minute bits Alcantara steering wheel with my savannah beige air bag did not look right to me Amazon prime at its finest Painted And refitted

Next up was 997 manual seats and I found some interesting wiring under the old seats. Plenty of people have changed seats so will skip all the steaps. its a very easy job and I used the 997 seat buckle no need to change at all. I really wanted 997 sports seats but was unable to find any in the right colour so settled on the basics. These are so much better, I feal that i am sat in them rather then on them.

not tempted to reduce the beige and add black seats ?

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I would rather keep the seats and fit other black parts like the centre section I have changed tbh. My Dash has broken parts so I'm likely to change that to black in the future as its easer to get hold of but I see so many have black seats or black seats with different inserts that I would like something different.

Did you notice a headroom improvement with the 997 seats? I'd be half tempted to do the conversion but hate losing the memory function (plus, a sill panel without memory buttons is like 500€).

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Its not a massive amount of extra space but at a guess an 1/2 an inch to an inch at the most. I'm just under 6foot and have no issues sat with a helmet on. you do need to push the seat all the way back and down before folding them forward or it hits the seat hits the roof which can be a pain. My kids can get in and out fine tho.

So this thread is now just about upto date all tho its a light touch. The Feal 441+ with swift springs of 5kg and 10kg are too firm for my liking on uk roads and so have been swopped out for Faulkners race spings in 200lb and 450lb which is approx 3.5kg/7.9kg and this is much better. I have made a to do list for this years work. Front subframe mount area rusting (booked in with slide motorsport next week) MOT Including investigating a front left knock only on 1st set off ??? Check if spare wheel fits over PCCB's Fit new rear Pads Fit correct turbo/c4s front air ducts to match the bumper (On order) Fit centre rad ducting (I have the gt2 air duct in stock and cut front bumper) Fuel smell in cabin to investigate. Could be fuel filler cap to pipe seal (On order) Service Fit new alloys with 235/40/18 & 275/35/18 PS5 tyres. I have a set of OZ Racing Alleggerita HLT 18x8.5 et40 and 18x10 et40 to fit. To go with the alloys if I need extra camber to make them work i have a set of GT3 lower arms with shims. Lastly Fit the CanCheck MDF28 display and wire in the ECU Master EGT, TPMS canbus and additional water / oil temp sensors to go with it. I've 3rd printed a mount in ABS for the display to go on the steering column cover Infront of the dash. should be cool and handy information which can be data logged. Got the idea for extra sensors and EGT from Mister corn epic build here https://911uk.com/threads/2001-c4-project-car.97291/

Loving this thread.... may i ask what alloys are on her currently...?

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Thanks, Those are stock 991 19 inch alloys with 235/35/19 and 285/30/19 tyres. will be putting up for sale in a week or so. just waiting on the new tyres to arrive.

New front splitter has arrived from Joe Toth composites in Canada. It’s a nice bit of work. Will fit when the bumper comes off to fit the new air ducts. Sneak peak at the gt3 coffin arms And lastly the OZ alloys Very strong fitment

The rust removal continues. My 996 is back at at Slide motorsport in the refab department.

How are you going to treat that front end?

Its at Slide motorsport in the refab department. going to cut it all out and fabricate new metal to weld in. As I get the picture from them will post it up. Same company that did the rear 1/4 panel

You have done an absolutely fantastic job of saving this, one thing though. If you have a quiet hour or so, don’t add up the cost of all of the invoices

Update from slide fab Morning, So the above patches obviously need doing, to do them properly we need to remove a chunk of parts and the tank etc to get the pipes out the way. The other suspect bits are... Front 'boot' floorpan, most of which will clean up and treat but I suspect it may need a little welding on the drivers side. passenger upper arch, almost certain just a clean up needed on this side, would benefit from the coilover being off and doing the full area and then seal it drivers side arch is much worse, again most will clean up but 99% certain that will need a patch doing as it is very soft in one area. It is strange as its not all over like a nissan, it just seems to hit certain areas. Either way Alex is currently on with stripping the parts needed so Josh can crack on with the obvious bits and just let me know whether we are cleaning up and sorting the other above bits while we have it stripped as it makes sense too Cheers Matt So I’ve given the go ahead to sort everything out plus spray anti-rust or something into the cavities too.

...I must admit that you are very brave to be committing so much money on such a rusty example...many,definitely me included, would have run a mile but you pays your money... ...despite being horrified I do admire your conviction...he nice to see it finished...keep going!

...how come they didn't spot this rust when they did the other work ?

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It was noted when doing the rear 1/4 and why its back now. I just ran out of hobby funds at the time so had to wait while I saved up again. spent too much on parts and did not leave enough to sort all the rust but this time getting it all sorted.

I genuinely wish you well with the project my friend...

It's a pain It's gone rusty but like you say it's good it's localised as a decent repair will sort it for a long time. My Impreza didn't seem that bad but it turned out it had large areas which were thin as a tissue so it wasn't viable to repair! Good to see there are still places willing to do this type of work too! Mac

crikey , i doff my cap to you sir! for getting that sorted out, how on earth did it pass it's last mot

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Thanks, I will get it all sorted, the Mot tester gave me a warning saying it would not pass again. its just about to run out too.

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yeah Slide motorsport have been incredibly good at looking after all my cars over the years gone by. Did a great job repairing my wifes landrover L322 last year when one of the sils started to fail taking the jacking point with it.

Great work fella, respect

Amazing commitment and great to see you’ve stuck at it. Where did you get car from, Scotland? Just wondering what ate that inner arch…

After having some professional welding done to my 964 that is why I have now bought a kempi minimag to repair my mk1 golf. I just don't have enough money to get the golf done otherwise!

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Hull. The rear arch is from crash damaged. Up front no idea.

Popped into to slide to drop in new front arch liners and fuel tank to filler seal. Good progress but I have an oil leek between engine and gear box so gear box is coming off ones welding done.

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Its unusual on a 996 forum for folk to be surprised by this. Elsewhere in the motoring community, rust is just something classic car owners take in their stride as it's just a fact of life.

...996s aren't typically rust ridden thus one can quite easily buy one that isnt! Hence the general interest...

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Unfortunately that’s not the case, they are very much prone to rust. People also naively said the same of the 964 and the 993, and they were wrong. Yes, of course there are examples that haven’t, but they are increasingly harder to come by now, and often the corrosion is hidden where most, even ‘savvy’ buyers won’t look or, as is more often the case, can’t look.

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I think the difference is that the shells were at least well treated from the factory, meaning it’s taken 20-25 years for rust to take hold, rather than the 10-15 years that’s more typical. Or 3-4 years if you talk about cars from the 70s!

Agree with the last sentiment...especially 70s cars; remember lancias rusting in the show room!

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How is the fitment, this is bloody strong! 25mm further spaced out on the rear than factory! are you going to undersize the tyres / roll the arches?

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This set up has already been fitted by others and hence why i can have decent confidence it will work. normally used with 265 rear tyre but ive gone with a 275 so some rolling mite be required but hopefully not with -2deg camber I plan to run.

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Can’t wait to see it. Good luck.

Update on the rust repairs. (Note I’ve got over 100 pictures and this is a small section hopefully in the right order) Above is all the near side chassis rail repair which you actually saw 95% finished in person but that is all done now

And this is the offside chassis rail which is also full done now as well. Also the passenger side strut top just required cleaning and treating. No welding needed which is good news.

more rusty updates from slide motorsport, all most done with rust now.

credit where it's due , my they are doing a sterling job on this i think it's a bit easier to face the cost when it's such a fine job. top stuff!!

Front chassis rail was where mine was going and then rear arches and also rear jacking points. Mine was a 99 car so those that have thier heads in the sand about 996's not rusting then just wait. Unless its been dry run only and no salt at all it will be there just waiting to poke its head out one day.

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Agreed buddy. Only rust left on mine now is this front jacking point & sill, which was started on today. Should have it back on the road by the end of the month. I never intend to sell this car, other that owning a gt3 it’s my dream car and modded to my personal taste and why I’m willing to invest into it. The kids / wife can do as please with it once I’ve returned to the mud lol.

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Agreed. I’m tired of hearing people telling me “Porsches are galvanised, it’s only crash repair that makes them rust”

I can’t read this thread and definitely don’t want to view he pictures, scats the hell out of me, have restored several 356’s through the years, I know the amount of work involved, fair play that you are doing this.

more rusty pictures. Front jacking point

Popped into slide today to pick up my 991 alloys after having them refurbished. It’s almost finished. Alloys looking good in the van

In March 2021 I drove from our place in the Scottish Borders down to Elsemere Port near Liverpool (3.5hr drive) to go and look at a 98 996 C2 in Arena Red and beige. I never look at the body work on show, always get on the floor and have a look underneath , I grabbed hold of a rusty looking jacking point and it crumbled in my hand onto the chaps tarmac, the other 3 looked the same...I got back in my van and drove home. It was parked 50 ft from the sea in his building yard. I'd never buy a car unless I get it up on a ramp first...that's where the serious repair costs lie. Ideally you need to remove all the plastic covers particularly the L shaped ones on the lower front of the rear arch , they are a trap for debris/salt and will eat the sills away without you ever knowing. Anyway I've just bought a 98 C2 in Arena Red with beige and the PO did have a lift so I spent a good hour with a torch (and spare batteries) looking at everything before I bought it. It's had lots of new parts fitted and I got it for a song (for a reason) ...video of it coming soon. Jacking points , I think, are a good indication of the state of the rest of the car and easy to see and touch if you can't get it up in the air.

New Rear arms fitted

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Presumably the locknuts have been left loose for an impending geo?

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yes buddy, still working on fitting the air cups / lift on the front then it will be having a full Alignment before then heading off for a new MOT.

Wow! Just read through the whole thread..I'm impressed by your dedication If you're dropping the suspension, don't forget adjustable drop links. Also, engine mounts - replace them if not already done.. One question, where are the rear upper control arms (dog bones) from?

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Thanks buddy. Engine mounts are done. Noted on drop links. Adjustable arms are from gravity performance.

Joe Toth Composites front 3 section splitter fitted. I think it look really good. Adjusted the rear spoiler up one notch to hopefully balance it out. Needs a wash

Air cups install completed. Booked in for mot and I’m collecting it on the 1st of August Rear wing adjustment Air cups pump install. I need to make a cover for it. Need to figure out how to add videos

Great work. These cars are definitely starting to rust. My C4S needed all four arches and the sills cutting out and replacing!

Excellent dedication - I had no idea Slide were able to do this sort of work - My 993 has been in there a couple of times (its very local to me) so will 100% consider them for any future work needed.................

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I’ve been using them for years and know Matt really well. Slide do a lot of refab work on jap cars and have had no issues doing my 996. Really happy with the result. Collected it this morning and just drove to the office

That 996 of yours wouldn't look out of place in Tokyo...... love the stance and your new wheels look mega....!!!!

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Thank you, that’s really appreciated. Took it out again today and it really feels so much more solid, the steering feels so direct now. No clucking on the front left and no shuddering under harder braking like before it went in for all this work. Matt told me to check the coolant once I had done a couple of hours driving. It was below minimum when checked tonight so topped it up. The rear passenger side is rubbing when going over big bumps and I think I would like the front lowering a bit more, not much maybe 5-10mm ish to balance the front wheel arch gap to the rear so going to arrange to get it back in with slidemotorsport for adjustment. Tried pushing on today and discovered it did not like to go over 4000-4500. Going to plug in my durametric and check for codes tomorrow. Could be the crack sensor as searching on here it’s a common problem.

Clean the maf and then recalibrate the throttle body.

Error codes

My 911 is fixed

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Air cups at work Air cups fitted to a 996 911

Sounds epic Damo!!!!

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Thanks buddy. While taking it apart to fix it I also changed to the IPD Aluminum Intake Plenum Competition 82mm inlet including the gt3 throttle body and did the air box resonator bypass. It really sings now. I know these may not have given any actual gains but the induction noise is greatly welcomed.

Are you having the car remapped with the new TB and plenum? Initial reports on the plenum itself have not been encouraging, especially considering the price, but it would be nice to know what can be had with improvements to the intake and exhaust for the M96 at stock displacement.

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Yes I’m going to be booking it in with wayne at chip wizards for a remap. I just need to change the rear brake pads, sort the lambda spaces and a new crack sensor then it will be good to go. Hopefully get it booked in for a slot in September then at Caldwell park for a track day on the 10th of October. Well that’s the plan away way

So it’s booked back in with slide on the 27th for a few adjustments on ride hight and to have the rear passenger side arch rolled a little more as it’s rubbing. Also getting them to fit a new crack sensor and post cat lambda spacers. Started on the wiring / reading up on the cancheecked mdf28 in prep of installing it too. Drawn up a mount in tinycad and then 3d printed the mount in PLA to test fit. It needs a few changes but you get the idea. I have some black abs that I will use for the final product. Be nice to have oil temp, EGTs and TPMS on the dash with alarms set and ability to data log.

@Damo996 did you get the paint done at Sons of Guns just round corer from Slide? Just wondering if they are any good as I want a bit of paint doing

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No buddy, it was a place in Grimsby closer to home

Canchecked mdf28 install update now with my own 3d printed mount to go onto the steering column. Canbus and power wiring down. Universal oil sandwich plate ready to fit with canchecked oil pressure and temp sensors. Also got a page all programmed up and uploaded onto the display. With egt for each cylinder tyre pressure then oil temp and oil pressure on the bottom. Should have everything wired in and fitted within the next 2 weeks.

Started the wiring in the 996 and found an aftermarket tracker. Not my best work but making progress on the loom for the external oil temp and pressure sensors Egt to can wired into the engine bay. Using the air pump to mount it. Used this bung to get the wires into the cabin Tracker??

Well it’s in, need to fit the sensor sandwich plate next and add a 120ohm resistor I missed off one end of the can bus wiring

double post

canchecked sensors wired in and working to the mdf28 just need to fix the canbus next to get the ecumaster TPMS and the EGT to can reading working. 120ohm resistor to solder in at the EGT to can. The EGT on cylinder 2 looks suspicious. No miss fire so it must be a sensor issue that I need to investigate.

Just read through this in the bath after my cycle trainer session. Excellent build thread; that's what I call dedication! Keep the updates coming.

Forgive the question because ti's your money but is the engine unopened after 160k miles? I ask because you've spent a fortune and...

no bill in the history show it’s been opened but have a receipt for when the cutch was changed which states ims inspection. There is lots of 996s with higher mileage than mine on original engine. In the next few years plan an AMS Porsche basic rebuild with some miner upgrades. Three and a half hours of dyno time booked for Friday with Wayne at chip wizards. Dropping it off back a slide motorsport Tuesday morning to have the rear raised so it will pass the min clearance needed of 107mm as per his website.

So yesterday I refitted the stock air box slide change the crank sensor, fit the lambda spacers and raised the rear up to its max hight plus aload of preload to minimise the sag in order to get the clearance needed for Wayne’s dyno at chipwizards. I set off at 6am and had a quick pits stop for coffee. There is always that one that parks next to you I do like how the water / condensation collects on the wing I was sat at chipwiards by 0830, after a little natter and coffee she was on the dyno So any guesses as to what she made

Go on then, I’ll start the bidding. 275kw and 405Nm. I only do SI units.

Wheel or crank bhp...??!

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I have readings for both so either

Wayne was a gent and great to chat too. His 997 gt2 is stunning. I should have taken more pictures of it.

I prefer to use brake donkey power so 566 bdp Ps 1 donkey power equals 0.6 bhp !!!

Very interested to see what the dyno said! Can you remind us what power enhancing mods you’ve fitted? Exhaust? Cats? Air filter?

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toyosport manifolds, x pipe with 200 cell cats and valvtronic silencers. IPD plenum inlet with gt3 throttle body. Resonance box removed from inside the 996 air box and blanked off. BMC air filter Before any mapping my car made 314.7bhp and 297lflb at the fly (283 at wheel) After mapping it made 337bhp and 313.6ftlb at the fly (300 at the wheel) Very happy with the results

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Those are great results - almost most impressive is how healthy your engine was before all the mods, considering the mileage! Can I ask how loud it is now?!

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I'm so glad I invested in getting the rust sorted as the engines seams to be solid and I'm so happy. With the valves open its loud but not too silly. with the valves closed at 70mph on cruise you can happily have a good chat. I took it over to Caldwell park to get it tested before I book onto any track days, Static test with the valves open at 4500rpm it was 102db. I was told I'm ok to go out on track with it.

Nice does it feel much different? So 561.7 bdp, I wasn't far off, seem to have to rev it a bit now though with max power at 65400 rpm!!

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its a lot smother, It had like a switch at 4-4.5k with exhaust note change before which you can here on the video above. I've not been driving much so it feels very fast as my other car is a t6 transporter 180hp so yeah it feels rapid to me Yeah we had a chat about the top end, Wayne tried to pull that up and got a little best run was 338, Wayne also tried to get rid of the low end dip but the changes made gave no affect. Wayne believe its mod driven and would have like to swop the IPD inlet off and fit one with out the ramp inside to see if that was affecting the left to right bank resonance but I binned the stock stuff.

2nd, 3rd and to 4th pull. Sound is glorious, drivers window 1/3rd open This was performed on my own private road

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Ps I was only joking about the top end as your print out is showing 65400 rpm !!!

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That sounds really good and the engine is more eager than my (stock) 3.6. Are you sure that's a 996 - where are your squeaks/rattles?

She’s back home from having the alignment reset after the dyno night raise. All arms are now fully adjustable ones which has made a big increase in road noise but I’m fine with it. It’s still a very firm ride with the feal 441 + coil over and the lighter springs. Mite need to go see COG and have a look at there custom setup. I’ve reduced the dampers to 5 clicks full soft so need to test that later

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I've seen many tests done on the ipd plenum /GT3 throttle body. In all cases the car has lost at least 6-8bhp. The general concencus is, leave it standard, add the exhaust system, BMC air filter and a remap. It would have been interesting to see what she would have made with the stock Porsche throttle body and plenum. Great thread though and a testament to the engine after all those miles.

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It made power in the 9werks car on back to back dynos but agree I’ve not seen many actually make gains with it now I’ve researched it.

I’m loving my 911. Done just over 300 miles now on the new alignment and hight settings. Running the front 2 clicks from full soft and the rear 5 clicks from full soft with cold pressures of 32psi front and 36psi rear. I can blast along the bump b roads near me and still feel planted so very happy. Egt sensor 2 has failed and 6 is intermittent so I’ve got 2 news to replace those. Also got the TPMS system from trail brake to fit as no support from ecu master with there system and can’t get it working correctly. The trail brake ultimate system comes with a sensor programmer so I can take a copy of the new sensor and save to load on to the new ones as the batteries die. Headlights need cleaning. Going yellow

Well I’ve about 1500 miles since remap etc and I’m loving it. It’s a very dirty girl now though, need to try clean it sometime soon. My head lights are starting to yellow a little and are not looking great on the inside. Need to figure out / google if I can strip them down and refurbish them.

you need to heat up the black sealant that stick's the lens in, there are various methods of doing it from placing the headlight in the oven,[not the best] or into a cardboard box with a hair drier poked through heating it up [takes a while] or go around the back edge of the headlight with a blow torch keep it moving then prise apart the lens. i have tried all 3 blow torch worked well and the quickest .Leave the black stuff on then heat in back up to stick it back together .

Meant to post this the other day but passed the 165,000 miles mark. Sorry for the blurry picture but passenger was having a rough time on the very bumpy road.

It's almost run in now.

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Has the engine been rebuilt in that time? Asking for a fiend whose engine is also high mileage

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Original engine and IMS, no rebuild

Well it’s been a while since I updated. I’ve been driving and enjoying my 911 but finally a fault has occurred Looks like my alternator resistor pack has gone as getting over 16v. This is intermittent and it can be ok for several miles then re appear. I need to take a look at it tomorrow and maybe order a new alternator

Great thread, I just read the whole lot

Right so it turn out everything was just wet through from the winter outside. Now it’s all dry the fault has gone. Did over 300 miles to the centre of London and back for work yesterday with no issues other than faulty egt sensors. Need to get some better ones. Next winter will strip the headlights down and refresh then. Got night breakers bulbs all ready 0330 am start.

If Darth Vader had a 996.... this would be it.

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haha love that and thanks bud

well just ordered a set of standard top mounts and a set of nitron roadsprots with even light spring rates than I have on my feal 441s. My feals will be up for sale in the next 2 months with both the swift 5 & 10kg springs and the light ones im using now 3.5kg and 8kg

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I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the nitrons

My only experience of Niton shocks have been on my motorbikes. Exquisetely made very high quality and plush ride/performane and a great company to work with. Ohlins however were a pile of rust after two years.

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Did you get these through Ian? I was chatting to you on Facebook about the Nitron kit!

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They are very good! 20240325_214117 by Scott Osborne , on Flickr

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ah got ya. Yes I've ordered via Ian at prepworks

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Class, hes a good guy!

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Ohlin's have improved from reviews but that's not good on your feed back and disappointing. my feals are fine tbh and still look good, do a decent job and did fine on the 1500 mile round trip to leman but as the roads are getting so poor now I'm just looking to improve the compliance on pots holes etc and believe I can get it with the nitrons and stock top mounts but it should still be half decent if I look to go on track in the future. it was down to the nitrons or the centre gravity Bilstein CGGT kit but it has no adjustment at all its fit and forget and mite not be ready for several months after taking to them yesterday. it was call back in a month or so....

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Looking forwrad to you thoughts once fitted.

Also really look forward to hearing your thoughts on the nitrons. Will you install yourself? Any clues as to spring rates that you're opting for or is that a Prep Works trade secret?

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installing myself and going to joeys speed shop for alignment setup, I only know the main spring rate which is 3kg and 7kg but also has a helper / tender spring of which I have no idea on the rating.

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Are these the stock spring rates for the nitrons? Or did you custom-specify them? I’m wondering if those dampers are valved to work with your rates of 3kg/7kg. And are those the nitron R1? Thanks!

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Its a new product via Ian at prepworks with custom valving in order to better suit the current state of uk roads hence why the lower spring rate than what you would normally get.

Thank you. I never considered Nitrons, but this has piqued my interest because I am also interested in coilovers that excel on bumpy roads. I am looking forward to reading your thoughts on their performance!

this story starts Thursday night with a very quick wash and dry as I agreed to meet a friend in his r8 The drive over to Sherburn was great with my 996 not missing a beat and that sound track Over to the motorist and I must say the r8 v10 sounds good!! A great chat with friends and some decent food and it was off back to work. This is where my bad luck started. I left my headset at the motorist so headed back at 1630 packed up grab my headset jumped back in and proceeded to reverse out of the parking space the drive out over a bloody curb ripping off my oil filter in the process. Turns out I had snapped the converter spacer bolt Filter was bent like a banana But at least it was sunny with decent vibes and the bar was open while I awaited the AA. Give a hand helping to clean up and washed away what oil we could with water. The AA turned up and put a load of coconut shell dust down and got me on a truck home It’s now sat on the driveway. Awaiting for me to inspect any other damage. I felt like a right tool

How the hell does a curb manage to rip off an oil filter?!!!

only half the car went up and over it and as I have a spin on conversation the filter is a little lower that the sump. The filter crushed against the sump / between the inner curb edge and pulled off.

Well it looks like there is no other damage. I’m going to take the sump off and change the oil return pipes to the upgraded 997 ones while I’m under here. Also going to take off the sandwich sensor plate. Can checked have sent me a file to try to get the oil temp etc from the canbus system so will not need these extra sensors hopefully. Any one know how to read the little dots on the carbon discs?

she’s up and all four corners are off Sensor plate removed and new filter fitted Oil drained. Got approximately 5.5 litres out Sump removed and start fitting the 997 oil returns Old vs new 1st one in All done Got the torque wrench out to tight up to spec. All back together. Going to leave it 24 hrs before filling up with oil and finding out if all ok. Then I need to start stripping off the feal coilovers, clean and get them up for sale in prep of the Nitrons arriving

OMG I was there at the Motorist on Sunday, sore the oil spill and a load of sand. Me and my mate both commented on how bad the car park was designed with the sticking out curbs and wondered how many alloys they had wrecked! Never thought they would catch the oil filter.

Good luck with the repairs

Ouch! Good job you’re handy with a spanner

So this weekend I gave the car a proper wash, machine polish and refurbished the plastics using Owatrol Polytrol Before After Shuttle half way After Other wing mirror Post polish Wheel arches and feal 441 coilovers cleaned

car looking great and some nice mods. Gen 2 with the gen 1 aero rear. not seen that before but it works. regarding the DOTs on the carbon disc they are there for wear indicator. when the small discs go a very dark colour it's time to change the disccs. hopefully you won't have to get to that point as major ££. not sure if that helps?

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yeah that helps, mine are fine for now. I have a 2nd set of discs & hubs that I plan to send of to redisc to get refurbished.

Looking great! Now get those wiper arms painted!

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whoever designed that car park was a sadist - especially that little bit in front of the large shop door where its got that solitary bay.................must catch a few wheels on that!

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Its on my to do list for this week along with fitting a new rear window rubber seal

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agreed its not great.

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i thought exactly the same. makes my OCD itch ;-)

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that's a result and well done for finding another set. I remember looking at a 997 GT3 with PCCB and the circle was a very dark grey. dealer was insisting they are not shagged and decent thickness. it's not the thickness its the condition of the carbon material where they go .

Rear window seal changed

No more rusty window wipers Treated the trim again and refitted after a quick paint also fitted Porsche centre caps to my OZ alloys Next up is an upgraded @Alex SSK and gearbox mount

Thats the gearbox power flex bush fitted, was a bit of a pain as the bolts were mega tight. Had to get the breaker bar out. Pulled the stud out of the car on one side too. Bush fitted Just got the under trays to refit tomorrow.

nice work on the wipers. no more OCD itching interested to see what you think with the gearbox PF mount insert. should help a bit with the gearchange and notching.

Just read the whole thread, you've done wonderful work on the car Wish you all the best in future enjoyment of it

Nice work mate, i think you'll like the insert. It added a little more to the 'feeling' of the car for me, its what i wanted from the RS engine mounts but they felt no different haha

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thank you. Thanks, really starting to get there now. Yeah I have the uprated semi solid engine mounts already. I sometimes miss 3rd so hoping this and the uprated SSK will help with that. Still waiting on the Nitrons, been 6 weeks now and if not here this week will not get fitted until after I'm back from leman

Well an air ram for the mk2 aero / gt3 is not going to work in a taco without a lot of work

Designed originally for the gen2 RS. The gen 1 aero and lid is different I did put one on my old gen 2 gt3 and it was not too bad too fit. You can bond or glue them on

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yeah, i read and have seen one fitted to a taco, it looked great but i did not understand the amount of work required.

which air induction system do you have ? @Damo996

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I have the IPD Aluminium Intake Plenum 82mm inlet including the gt3 throttle body to the stock 996 airbox with the air box resonator bypass. BMC air filter

The nitrons have arrived and will get them installed this afternoon. 1st impression are good. Great build quality and the record card is a nice touch. Well packaged Rear Front Just need to work out how to fit the stock top mounts next

Awesome, they even included adjustable drop links!

Glad they've arrived mate! Im interested to see similar pictures but with the OE top mounts on as well!

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does the IPD plenum and bigger TB make much difference on the NA cars? I read that it drop torque and moves the power further up the range once tuned. works a treat on Turbo cars but you have the forced induction benefit.

I have now had a good look at the kit and I have listed below the stock part numbers needed to make up the stock top mounts sections on both front and rear. Rear stock part numbers needed that I ordered. 99633310700/1 Shock absorber stop disc. Porsche 996 x 4 99633305903/1 Supporting rear suspension top mount. Porsche 996 x 2 Front stock part numbers needed that I ordered. 99634310703/1 Shock absorber stop disk. Porsche 986 Boxster / 996 x 4 99734301801/3 Shock absorber supporting mount. Porsche 996 / 997 x 2 (you could go for the mo30 / x71 part too but I got the stock item) 99634351505/1 Shock absorber groove ball bearing. Porsche 996 / 997 / 986 / 987 x 2 99634351701/1 Shock absorber strut support ring. Porsche 996 / 997 / 986 / 987 x 2 99634351100/1 Shock absorber compensating plate 3mm Porsche 996 / 997 / 986 / 987 x 2 (not 100% this is needed but ordered anyway) I have all the rear parts here but missing a few of the front parts which I called design 911 to get shipped out with before 12 tomorrow delivery

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It’s debatable as some people have made gains and some people haven’t. I assumed it was down to the condition of the engine etc. the exhaust system you decide on has more of an affect on moving the power around. Mine has definitely moved it up with the x pipe and manifolds etc. this is also likely where most of my gains has come from. My dyno print out and results are on post 117 page 8 of this thread. https://911uk.com/porsche/damos-996-c2-rust-bucket-to-fast-road-track-car.125175/page-8#post-2704655

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yeah 200 cells and a better flowing exhaust are going to help a fair chunk in the gains.

half way building up the rear Did not need the little washer so removed from the list above.

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Paid extra for the drop links just to be clear. Thanks. will do a little build up guide as I put them together / fit hopefully I have time..... will take a few pictures as I go at least.

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Which model are these Damo ? They have a combined rebound Compression adjustment ?

combined adjustment same as the R1. set to 10 clicks out from full hard form the factory. Nitron give the following wording on the road sports. Developed from our full race suspension and sharing many components with the Nitron R1 coilover kit and Nitron R3 coilover kit, the Nitron RoadSport kit utilises the OE top mount and will always follow the OE rear suspension type, serving a balance between ultimate performance and ultimate comfort. Ian at prepwork has worked with nitron to developed 996 gt3 road focused valving to work with softer spring rates to give a better compliance than the off the self road sports which is what I'm using here. I set off to leman next Tuesday on a 1500 miles round trip to give them a test

Stripped the rears apart again. I’ve order a 1mm think rubber ring to be delivered today as I’m not happy how you end up with metal on metal between Nitron top spring retainer and the top mount itself

I haven't commented much but I keep an eye on these threads to see if it can give me a steer on my build, I trust the guys doing it to steer me in the right direction but we aren't quite at a consensus yet on a couple of things. At some point we should have a 996 day, so we can try each others cars and see where the sweet spot is, I've seen you say the GT3 is probably a bit too harsh for you these day and I felt the same about the GT3RS, which is why my build came about, an RS built for the road, Marc assures me he's going to dial in a perfect road ride and he's managed it with my 930, so it bodes well so far. Still up in the air is the lightweight flywheel. It'll be good to hear how you get on with your Nitrons, they're lovely when you get them, really good quality and on my bikes mine are still like new even years later.

new and fresh suspension, always a work of art

Bushes arrived for the rear top mount. Pictures below give you assembly info. About to go start fitting them to Rusty

Thank you for taking the time to document this. I'm really interested to hear your feedback on how these perform and it sounds like your upcoming trip will be a good test. I've exchanged a few messages with Prepworks which was positive so hopefully this is backed up with real world experience.

Passenger side fitted. front main spring needed 20mm of preload to get droop something like. Rear was 10mm.

It’s a shame to put such lovely engineering under the car. Helper spring on the front looks a long way compressed in the picture? Without a gaiter on the bump stop do they suggest a neoprene cover to protect the piston seal ?

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your welcome. thanks for reading. I have 3 out of 4 corners done. front drivers calliper bolt is solid. snapped my hex tool trying to break lose. Spoken to Joey and he's agreed to do the alignment Monday so gives me a little more time to try work it out. He's even agreed to taking the braided hose of the calliper, and re bleed after if needed. Looking at the rear this morning its settled a little lower so going to add another 5mm of pre-load.

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I have e-mailed asking that question and going to get a sock to cover i think. tender for a spring rate this light on the front is not correct I feel because my main spring rate is so light (3kg) I’ve needed a lot of pre load. The main spring on the front is 20mm compressed. So 180mm now 160mm. Tender is not being used. Going to remove On the rear the the 7kg has 10mm of spring compression so 180mm now 170mm. The tender is about 50mm compressed so still useful

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Agreed , I'd want to put some sort of cover over the entire thing , something that wouldn't impede movement but protects it from the elements. Maybe a soft neoprene sock that's cable tied top and bottom , with a zip/velcro so you can access for adjusting it. I couldn't leave those totally exposed like that in the UK ..it's mechanical cruelty.

Right….. I can’t get the rear to a ride hight that’s acceptable without risking spring bind. The 180mm spring is too short. The front I can make work but don’t have much bump travel. If you are happy to run at gt3 RS 112/125 hight then 30/70 200mm springs should work. After discussing my wanted ride hight of 120 front 140 rear with another Nitron user who is running roadsports with 40/90 in 200mm. I decided to go with those. I rang Nitron and got the order in and on route to be here Friday. Part of me wanted to try the 30/70 in 200mm but at 370 for 4 spring I choose the safer set which has been proven

Good luck, it’s enjoyable but time consuming work .. I use to use faulkners for my bike springs, was considerably more cost effective if you had several different settings to try D Faulkner Springs – Order Suspension Springs Online

This is why these days I just pay someone else to do it, I'm very time limited and I still do my own motorcycles, but cars can suck up so much time and I'd rather be driving them these days rather than doing anything that is going to be a bit of a pain.

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This thought enters my mind when I’m frustrated while working on my own cars.

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I often enjoy it if I've got the time and I'm in the mood, but there is also a lot to be said for just dropping it off and then collecting it all done.

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Thanks will take a look, to run the spring I want too I need a longer length so one for the future if these don't work out. I have that very feeling, the only car i work out out of the 4 we have is the 996 these days. same at times. I enjoy the end result more that the journey when it comes to cars for sure. Come Tuesday when I'm on the road to leman I will be in my happy place.

I do all my own bikes, or I did when I had a collection of race/road bikes, I've only got two now, but basically I didn't really trust many places, so I did them mostly myself, I would occasionally farm stuff out, but most places just fit parts, they're not engineers, I had an issue with a part once that I was struggling to get and I took it along to the local bike shop and that's exactly what he told me, they're just fitters, so I went home and made the part I needed on my lathe. The problem with modern cars/bikes is if you don't have the software then you're tied to a dealer/specialist anyway, but fortunately my interest is mostly in older stuff. Although suspension set-up can be a bit tricky, so it does usually end up better to get someone who really knows what they're doing, they'll usually get a better result and in a lot less time.

Right I am all built up and ready for alignment on Monday, approx 5mm from side to side difference in hight but it’s not a flat floor…. 115mm front and 128rear when measured here I have 180mm 30nm spring front with the tender and 200mm 82nm rear. The spring unfortunately did not make it here yesterday so this is the best I can do with what I have off the shelf. It will do for the drive to leman and back

Just been for my 1st drive, a lot less road noise in the cabin being back on stock top mounts. Alignment is definitely out on the front. Pot holes are much better managed than my old setup. Feels bouncy on the back but not on the Nitron spring…, Currently 12 clicks out from hard on front and back don’t feel the need to adjust softer on the front. Mite move a few clicks softer on the back on the way back home.

I like to measure ride height from the center of the wheel to the arch of the fender directly above. Of course, that goes out the window if you have any body damage. And 5mm isn’t worth crawling back under the car to fiddle with adjustments, especially when your Monday appointment is around the corner.

With your experience now you could probably do a decent sideline in PPIs.

Keep us updated how you get on with it Developments like this eat time, if it’s your own time and car that’s much easier to do, it’s great you’re able to do it, hopefully you get some personal satisfaction from the journey. I can’t imagine they’re many places out there who’d take on this type of work anyway? From experience once you’re dealing with anything unknown commercially you loose, these things eat time you never get back thats why you get what you’re saying harry, bolt that on kick it out get the bill paid next customer. Harsh realities of business..

Yeah I think the guys were getting a bit fed up with my 930. I told them to charge me the going rate but they still said it was eating up crazy time, they’re not made to go together as fast as modern modular stuff.

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Yeah I've spoken to Joey at https://joeysspeedshop.com/ and once its on the Patch he will measure it and double check it. yeah I could give a 996 a good go over. Indeed, Just waiting on the Air can guy to turn up to regas the system as the weather forecast for Tuesday / Wednesday is up to 30 degrees. Then I'm going to take off the rear tender to see if that why im getting the bounciness.

Air con done. 218g is all it had in the system now 900g It’s raining at min so rear will need to await a little

Keep up the great work pal! Reminded me I need to re gas my air con too

My wife asked me about regassing her Jeep yesterday, she said the guy will come to the house to do it, I said that's fine but it might be a more serious issue like a failed joint or something and she asked what I meant, she said surely it's just like when the man comes and changes the BBQ gas and we just use it as we go along I had to explain that you don't burn AC gas to keep cool like you burn Calor gas for the BBQ.

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thanks That's funny. I have expected to do the same but not been asked yet. I got it done 2 years ago so must have a small leek I need to look for.

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Sounds like the sketch where the daughter comes home really happy that she was charged only $50 for premium tyre air at the garage.

150 ish miles into the journey south and so far so good. Pot hole are managed much better even at speed. With all the gear for 2 people away for 7 days the front has droop 5-10 mm so not much travel left when using the 3kg springs.

The spring looks quite short, is that normal to have such a small amount of travel available on the unit?

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No. Car is fully loaded so it’s sitting lower that it normally would. Spring is a 180 and should be a 200 but making it work for the trip to leman and bs I this week.

So 320 miles, 45 litres of fuel later and a visit to Design911’s hq we are at the hotel. Design911 HQ. Nuts fitted. Pollen filter fitted. Hotel parking.

guarantee some klutz will be next to you up close in the morning even when there are loads of other spaces!! safe travels and the weather looks great for le mans. going to be a great year with the aston v12 screaming around plus the amazing RSR porkers.

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I'm really looking forward to hearing the Aston's in person, should be a great race. Porsche and Mustang support races should be fun to watch also.

I don’t typically like black wheels on a black car, but those yellow calipers peeking out behind the wheels really provides the much needed contrast to make it attractive! Your car looks very nice at that ride height / stance. That’s pretty cool that you can walk into Design 911. I didn’t know they had a physical storefront.

24hr lemans is mega as always The nitrons are working a treat. Got spotted a couple

Hey Damo, how have things been? You’ve been quiet lately, wondering if things are all good? Still liking these Nitrons with those spring rates?

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Hi buddy, yeah all good. My 996 is all good, I got new cups along with the 200mm 4kg front springs so front lift working again. needs a proper alignment still but its currently sat out of the way sorned now. I'm a railway contractor and work is now very slow so need to keep overhead down until it picks back up. going to be living on my savings for a while it seams to sum up, I'm running 40nm front, 80nm rear in 200mm lengths

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I feel you mate, my future son in law is on the railways....tough times for you guys and with a young family he's really feeling the pinch and constantly being let down by agencies etc.

it feels quiet everywhere currently - no industry sector is performing well despite what the govt wish to tell us..................

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I've been on rail for 25 years now, 8 years as a contractor and we have a slow turn ever 5 years as the gov issue the money out in 5 years lots called control periods. Its normal however the slow is only 6-12 months for the new CP to get moving but we are 18 months in to CP7 and its still very slow. myself and others keep saving set to one side to get though these times but with this one going on so long now with no end it sight its getting very bad. Some are now losing there homes, or have agreed 6 month mortgage hold while trying to sell. its like we are in 2008 all over again. I ended up getting work in Oz to keep us going in 2008

Hey Damo, glad to hear from you again! I’m bummed to hear about your current situation, and I hope it improves for you soon. Thank you for sharing the spring rates and lengths too.

Well after a couple of months of it still not doing much. Decided to start her up. Started very quickly but Unfortunately was met with a miss fire no error code at 1st but the egt sensors let me know which was the problem cylinder. Just after taking the above photo I then had another issues. Voltage meter rocked up to the max reading and an error on the dash saying warning battery generator. It's the same error I got back in jan 2025 on post 135 which went away so I shunt her down. The battery then went flat and the alarm went off despite being on a CTEK charger. Battery disconnected and it charged up fine. I've order a new alternator which has now arrived from design 911 and with this week off work and weather permitting will change it over and the AC compressor. As you can see below its freezing here at min and as she don't fit in my garage (door gap not wide enough)

That’s nice, your EGT monitor is very useful. Have you been using the EGT to adjust the ecu tune?

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I don't. its mainly for keeping an eye on stuff but i did have it fitted at the time when Wayne at Chipwizards did the map

Great job they've done! The work looks really thorough

Pulled my finger out today Pulled coil pack and plug out. Unfortunately my scope don’t have a 90g camera so ordered one via Amazon prime. Cracked on with changing the alternator Cleaned up the crimp before refit Next up air con compressor

Is that a normal sized gap on the plug, seems huge?

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I did not check before fitting them to be honest. All looked the same. google says 0.8mm so will check before refitting

Check that earth strap too Damo, especially the engine end , you'll need to peel the heat shrink back and recover it but it's worth checking. I'll be making new ones this week with a proper crimper (Cembre)

Scopes arrived

very nice, your engine is clean!

Nice and clean cylinders!! Nice write up!

That’s what we like to see. Nice clean bores

Ultimate AOS track edition has arrived Just need some nicer weather

Starting the process of removing parts to change the air con compressor, oil filter tube as part of the UAOS and on removing the inlet the smell of fuel was instant.

Is this one of those remote AOS you’re fitting Damo? I read about them somewhere but forgotten the benefits of the design ..

This kind of brings the bit that fails to the front of the engine so it's accessible to change it without removing the engine in the future? but it's still going to be fun trying to get the old one out and swap it over not as bad as a 3.4 though.

Ah right yes the diaphragm bit ..

Yeah, the new AOS is modified and sealed and the diaphragm is relocated but it also has a larger capacity via an extra chamber which has a return route via the oil fill pipe so I can over fill the oil by a litre taking into account the shorter dipstick on the .2 engine. Gives better oil starvation protection

Interesting..

Well as the uk railway downturn in work continues I’m unlikely to drive my 911 this year and so I’m going to diy a few things with a hope I find a project to work on in the future. Selling the old arms and now the IPD inlet was removed / sold posted out this morning. I have a Chinese unit to replace it with (£65) I’m also considering selling my taco spoiler and refitted the stock unit. I would like to get the aero.2 wing or an RS one in the future. Weather depending I will hopefully complete the UAOS installation this week then move onto the front end. I have all the ducking to match my front bumper including the centre rad snorkel?? So going to look at getting all that fitted and cut up the bumper with an R/S style vent. Also need to move the wing rads forward as I have wheel clearance issues on close to full lock. Back to the IPD for now. IPD vs Chinese unit. No V to direct the air. Mite get the dermal out to clean the casting marks up.

Bolt the TB to the Chinese plenum and open it with your hand, i had a lip that needed grinding away for smooth flow. You should find that Chinese one should get rid of your torque dip on the graph, fingers crossed! That AOS solution looks interesting, you'll have to keep us informed how that goes!

Well I’ve done nothing with her since my last post. Currently sat like this and not looking great. Will attempt motivation and clean rusty up and get some work done before it gets too cold

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Got a water leak somewhere...?

Yeah looks like the windscreen needs to come out, got water on the dash after jet washing it, coming through on passenger side about a 3rd of the way up. will add it to the list of things to fix

All cleared up and also gave the wife’s SLK a clean. I’ve got some decorating to do in the house over next couple of weeks and will start to get some work done.

Love that interior much nicer than my black