Door lock mechanism/latch/micro switch

Hi all, I'm finally getting around to wanting to fix the window not dropping issue I've had with my 996. On the outside, pulling the handle a little bit activates the window drop, but as soon as you let go when shutting it's back up. Same happens if you're inside, glass drops and then immediately raises as you release the interior door pull. If the windows down, door shuts fine. Told it's the micro switch in the latch mechanism and it's easier to replace the mechanism. Is the part number for this mechanism 8N2837016B ? If I buy this unit - does it include the micro switches? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 And what's the difference to this unit? https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod...E-Porsche-Boxster-986---996/?source=doofinder Or do I just need the microswitch?? https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod127123/Door-Handle-Microswitch-Porsche-986-Boxster---996/ Feeling confused! :?: :?:

Sounds like the problem I had, a failure within the mechanism, they say it's usually the circuit board that fails not the microswitches within. It's a std VW group part, certainly don't pay Porsche (or Design911) prices. The Ebay ad is for the passenger side, it's usually the driver's side that fails as it gets more use. There are threads on here on how to do it. VERY IMPORTANT, disconnect the battery first so you don't guillotine your fingers with the window.

Yep, I cut/pasted the wrong one. It's the drivers side that's playing up. I'll try one of these units, only concern is I've read a few posts with some people saying it was the microswitch not the unit - might just swap both out whilst it's apart! Saw the hand trap - 100% disconnecting the battery off!

"TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it." Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) My passenger door was showing symptoms of (1) but actually upon further investigation it was the stretched window regulator cable that was the problem and not the micro switch. There is a cheap fix for this using a cable tie but I replaced it with a new part for my own piece of mind as it's a bit of a faff stripping the door down to get to it so I didn't want to be doing that again. Interestingly it was the passenger door on a 39k car that has led a pampered life :!:

Easy job to do, I did mine recently as the repair i did about 5 years ago started to play up again. The bolts that hold the door lock are triple square (at least they are on my 2000 C2) and not torx so make sure that you have a set.

I had to replace mine recently as the locked micro switch was dead. Replaced with a used Audi TT MK1 and no issues. (same VW Passat no).

Thread resurrection My passenger window drops when opening the door, and raises when I release the handle. So behaving very much like scenario 2 in post #4. My assumption is that I need the part in green on the attached diagram. I rang 2 local specialists who have both mentioned the Porsche part - c £180 and c £400 as the full cost fitted including the part. Anyone have any practical experience of the longevity of the VW part (or any eBay clone) and a part number for the passenger side mechanism. In terms of self replacement is this fairly straightforward, read most of the comments and it seems like the biggest job is removing the trim. Are there any issues in terms of actual mech removal and replacement and how it fits and works with the handle? Thank you

Here is a detailed write up for a 9x7 but same principles apply for a 996 ;-) Thread '997.2 Door Lock Actuator Replacement' 31 May 2022 Duplicated Copied from a thread created by jonttt. ___________________________________________________________ Extracted from my 987.2 journal for ease of reference........ Replacing the Door Lock Actuator unit on a 9x7.2 BACKGROUND Occasionally I had noticed that the window returned to the fully up position when the door handles where released which means the control unit does not realise the door is still open........a replacement requires a door strip down and although fiddly to get at the control unit in the door skin it is a DIY.....unfortunately unlike the microswitches in the... T8 Replies: 7 Forum: Porsche 911 997 (2004-2012)

@jonttt - thank you that is really helpful.

The early 996's are an Audi TT part. I think it's the 9 pin version used. I've done both sides for under £30 each.

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The part is a VW part, it has their part no on it. I replaced mine in 2017 and it's been fine.

Sorry, by VW I mean VW group, it's from a TT but you need to search for the part number which I got off the lock itself.

@maldren @YPVS did you use genuine VW parts or a clone eBay part please?

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Cheapie Ebay ones. The passenger side started playing up after 5 years, probably through getting very little use, so was replaced again recently, as it was making the lock not fully lock on the first attempt, producing a double beep of the horn, needing a second go. The replacement was this one and looked better quality, although, I cut off a little red arm that wasn't needed on a 996. AUDI TT COUPE CONVERTIBLE 1998-2006 FRONT LEFT CENTRAL DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | eBay UK Anti Roll Bar link. Ignition Coil. AUDI TT COUPE 8N3 1998>2006 MODELS. Central Door Locks. No beeping alarm when dipped beam or turn signal light is left on. CENTRAL DOOR LOCK SUITABLE FOR Lower Ball. www.ebay.co.uk Remember this is passenger side, so has no key lock connector.

Thanks @YPVS . I’ve ordered one from cardoorlock.co.uk - passenger side. It’s in for brake fluid on 31st, if I haven’t had time to do it by then, will get the specialist to fit it whilst it is in.

Mine has the correct part no on it, I simply found the cheapest part I could, I would be surprised if there is more than one firm making them.

I have the joy of this issue now - window drops when i pull the drivers door handle, but as soon as i let go, the window rises again. However, the window doesn't drop at all when using the internal door handle Is that pointing to a microswitch or just replace the whole unit? This part seems quite reasonable at £26.50 Porsche 911 (996) Drivers Front Door Lock 1998-2004 Brand New OE Quality Porsche 911 Door Lock Solenoid. Replace Your Broken Porsche 996 Door Catch Mechanism | Free Fast UK Delivery | 12 Months Warranty cardoorlock.co.uk

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I bought one of those - passenger door - done the trick perfectly

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You have 2 faults there. One is the door mechanism with the built in microswitch (proved by raising when you let go of the external handle - car thinks the door hasn't opened so doesn't hold the window down). The other is the internal door handle microswitch. This one here with the 2 wires to it:

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Thanks Alex - is it worth trying to clean these with an electrical contact cleaner or better just to replace?

1st off try a hair dryer and make sure it's not got moisture in it, then have a play around with some contact cleaner - may possibly work.

Testing the internal and external door handle microswitches is simple. Get in the car and close the door. When you gently pull either handle the footwell lamp should come on.

Did some googling on the microswitches required, if cleaning and checking wiring doesn't help, for future viewers with similar issues The inner door handle one is 99661312300 appears to be about £100, which seems expensive! The exterior one is 99661312500 (Left) / 99661312600 (Right) which are about £30 each. I've found someone local that has a complete door for sale including the interior bits, so tempted to get that and swap/rob the parts as needed - but will try the cheapy cleaning option first!

Cleaning or tinkering with it will work. I wouldn't be surprised if it's come unplugged from the back of your door card. It's either the black or the white plug. One is for the little orange light in the handle, the other is the microswitch, they're virtually next to each other on the back of the door card.. I'd check that before anything else. 5:36 in this video shows them:

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I doff my cap to @Alex immense knowledge - got the door card off this morning and he was spot on - microswitch had come unlpugged!! plugged back in and normal service has resumed - without any new parts and any spend! Huge thanks to Alex!!

I had similar issues and replaced the door latch with an aftermarket part. It fixed the issues with window not dropping. Everything seems to be working fine. HOWEVER, now I get a double beep everytime I unlock the door. I’ve read somewhere that it’s a known issue when replacing with non-OEM door latch (the door latch sends a faulty signal to the alarm system) although door is closed, locks/unlocks fine, etc.). But I can’t find any information on how to solve the issue without replacing the door latch with an OEM part. Any input or experience on this anyone can share? Thanks.

Hi, I’ve replaced both of mine with non-OEM and not had that issue (996.2). However, after replacing one of the units, I was still getting the double-beep, as it turned out both were faulty. I confirmed this with my (newly bought to stop the guesswork) Foxwell code reader, which confirmed what signals the module was actually seeing with the doors locked/unlocked.

I found the explanation (and the solution) after talking to my local Porsche mechanic. The door latch "version" must match the option codes for the specific 996. E.g. two different door latches are needed for a 996 with option codes M534/M535 (anti theft alarms) vs. a 996 without these options. It is the last letter on the part number for the door latch that determines which one fits your specific 996 (e.g. 8N1837016A vs. 8N1837016C). Pair those with the option codes and you will find the door latch that fits your 996. It does not have to be OE - a cheaper aftermarket part will do the job. I found out that the 8N1837016C was the right version for mine. I found one on Amazon for €26(!), installed it last night and problem was solved.