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YOUR RESEARCHEngine not starting when hot - Crankshaft Position Sensor?
Leading reported evidence
Clean bolt, try
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Suggestion
with the engine in, Only tip is to clean the bolt, try to tighten it first and get some heat around it if possible.
Engine not starting when hot - Crankshaft Position Sensor?
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Leading evidence: 'Clean bolt, try' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean bolt, try' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Engine not starting when hot - Crankshaft Position Sensor?
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Hi,
I wonder if I can get any help with a hot starting issue.
'98 C2
1) Engine starts straight up when cold
2) Engine has cut out when driving, illuminating engine light
3) Cranks but no start when engine is warm - RPM gauge stays flat when cranking
4) After a few hours cooling down, engine fires up
This looks to point clearly to a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor however I have the following engine codes:
- Oxygen sensor heater ahead of catalytic converter BANK 2 ACTIVE/STATIC
- Oxygen sensor heater ahead of catalytic converter BANK 1 ACTIVE/STATIC
(aftermarket exhaust fitted)
Is it possible that the O2 sensor would cause the car to not start when hot?? Is it miss-diagnosing a bad CPS?
Any tips on replacing the CPS? How can I avoid stripping the 5mm hex bolt connecting the sensor to the engine before I attempt the job.
Thank you for any help.
Hi, I would replace the crankshaft sensor and the cam shaft sensor, either can cause a similar problem. although this does look like it's your crank sensor , The bad news is they are both in really hard positions to reach. with the engine in, Only tip is to clean the bolt, try to tighten it first and get some heat around it if possible. good luck.
I think Lee Sibley had very similar fault, I can’t remember the cause but it took a couple of attempts to fix. He did a couple of videos on YouTube about it.
I’ve replaced mine, but I had a clear codes on my reader that said as such. It can be done with the engine in-situ but it’s better with the engine out. Mine was done with engine in by Luke from Lap911
Sorry, this doesn’t help you but everyone who’s having their clutch replaced or Engine/Gearbox removed should definitely be having the CPS replaced as well as it seizes in position and needs drilling out. With the clutch out you can help to (carefully!) persuade it to move from the inside.
Could you get a right angle drill onto it if it’s too tight for a regular one?
Thanks for the responses.
The head of the sensor broke off (like ABS sensors, it seems to be impossible to take out).
Will see if I can free it with some heat.
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