Fearnsport 996 Turbo build

Got my engine at fearnsport for a rebuild, Matt really knows his stuff I have to say, though I wish I'd gone to him sooner.

He does seem to. What are you having done? MC

He does have a good rep! Couple of chaps on here have had some work done by him, 911tom has had a big build done and is now running mega power and I also thought MC had an engine down there? I'm having a rebuild done by Sid at Porsche Torque. More for future proofing and reliability than for ridiculous power. Its an interesting time!

Engine should make plenty of power. My main concern is the gearbox. I'll see if I can cap the torque

All the best with this build , to Matt's credit his work quality and attention to detail is one of the best . Recently I was taking apart my car and noticed even the cable ties he used were a US brand costing £65 a bag iirc . I wonder if it possible for an enthusiast to complete an engine build given that time wouldn't be a factor.

Superb stuff Matt is well respected :thumb:

I have an engine with Matt, it is being rebuilt with a stronger gearbox. I'll post up details when it is finished. Hopefully next year. MC

Another work of art from Fearnsport. Been through the same process with mine last year. What are you going for OP? Is it just a straight 3.6 build or are you upgrading to 3.8? Have you decided on turbos etc? Do you have a power figure in mind? With regard to gearbox is it manual or tiptronic? You are right it is torque that will upset the drivetrain. If you plan to 'cap' the torque then you will need to consider what turbo's you fit. My turbo's do not come alive unless they are running around 1.4bar. If I wanted to run less power and torque I would be better off with smaller turbos.... Food for thought but you need an end goal and decide what it is you are wanting to achieve out of this.

Tom is spot on What are your end goals as this will and more importantly affect the build. Its about what you want, near instant spool or grunt all the way to over 200mph, style of driving comes into play, road warrior or euro crusing, or track bla bla bla From experience, my build went from serious to ridiclous very quickly as the turbos were producing so much power, then you get very serious with the £££ drive shafts, strengthen loads of parts, cooling, oils feeds, fuel system, clutch, fabrications, i wont go on as i am now going for a drive,,,cant resist as at home today Damm you OP, why do i keep reading these great threads on 911uk !!! Keep the updates coming,,,exciting times

Hi OP I'm a big fan of Matt and his work too having known him since his AMD days: a thorough gent and excellent work - you are definitely in good hands The ' trouble ' with mine is that he did all the work on it back in 2010 and... nothing has played up/broken/gone wrong at all since so i will have to get the latest edition of 'Man maths for Porsche owners' out as i need a winter project uh: (just back from another fab weekend on Bugatti circuit and it turned 71K on the way back - 996T's are fab cars! :worship: ) Good luck with your build OP ps. Hi Faried - you met a friend of mine (also called Simon a few months ago in Cockfosters and he says hello :thumb: ) sorry for the thread hijack!

Looks very tasty! A 3.8 re-work has crossed my mind. I did wonder about installing the GT3 valve train components and con rods to allow a few more revs, but I guess with the turbos, what you gain in power top-end, you;d likely lose because the turbos drop-off?

Bring it over !

I saw yours down there, I'm getting the same modified water lines etc, as it's a far more robust solution. Where did you get your gearbox sorted, mines a manual. It's a road car, so I'm not too bothered about a headline figure, just that it's driveable. Id cap the torque through mapping, turbos just need to be efficient.

My gearbox was rebuilt by a firm in Germany. They only build automatics though... I'd suggest for your car you discuss options with Matt as I am sure he has built or knows where to get it done. Sports and Classic come to mind or as far as I know Bill Radar in the US of A is best known for strengthening these manual boxes. Faried (FRP on here) has just had a manual box built for his 9exx, might be worth a chat with him and 9e. As far as capping torque with the tune. Obviously that can be done but ultimately not great as a permanent solution. If you spec to bigger turbos they may not get in to their efficiency range. If you do not want to build the gearbox then you will need to spec turbos etc to suit whatever the safe torque level is for the stock manual box. I have no idea what that is as mine is a tip. If you are thinking you will build it but not right away then go for the bigger turbos and get the tuner to write you multiple maps. I can highly recommend Rick at Unicorn Motor Developments. He is the only tuner I am aware of that can run multiple maps on the stock ecu.

Yes, I'll speak to Matt again regarding the gearbox, he said yours was sent away so figured it wasn't something Matt did. He's explained the limitations with 6th gear and the helical gears, but I've not pressed him for a solution. I get the feeling strengthening might be outside of my budget, so maybe just a refresh and torque limit the output for safety. Anyone know a safe limit for the manual box?

Safe limit for a manual box has so many caveats Hard launch or not Health of the current box plus history of the current box What is second and third gear wear and tear like What will the power curve look like and how will it deliver the power to the box,,,,also remember its loosing traction that can destroy a box too INMO If your gearbox is in good condition and you DO NOT implement too many hard launches, a manual box has to be good for 660 to 710 bhp but dont quote me My box is a manual and has hed extensive works plus the drive shafts etc At a certain power output, you need to consider going 2wd as the front diff cannot take the power!!!

I assume you mean torque? If I limit torque to say 650ft/lb that should keep things safe, then run to xxxhp at max revs It won't be getting launched and won't be tracked. We'll see when it's finally running, won't be till after Xmas though, I'll just get the engine built this year.

Straight cut gear set, billet diff cover, stronger diff, 2wd so the front diff doesn't pop, GT2 oil pump and spray bar, Bob's your uncle. MC

Pesky double post. Matt is sorting mine out for me so it can be done. MC

MC All of the above and more LOL

Matt is a good lad, did the clutch and map tweaked on mine. Really happy with it, must get over to see him.. Darren

Cracking on! Had no notch the liners as the stroke was fouling. Was a while waiting for the chain tensioners. Had to cut a new breaker reservoir, the old was broken. Turbos are a bit of an issue, but will overcome I think! Basically i bought the wrong ones!

Timing the cams

It's really coming on now op. Looking good!

Bit of an update, pulled it out the garage and have it a clean down, hasn't seen daylight for about 5 years!

I think we can all agree, the most important thing about this build has already been covered. Your green tag is present and correct on the PAS reservoir. :grin: The beards go nuts over that you know. Seriously though some nice work going on there. You must be dying to get it back. :thumb:

I changed the suspension for B8's and H&R springs, I saw some corrosion on the strut mounts, just minor surface stuff but I've treated it all.

New suspension fitted. Various new screws where required. I'm also 2WD now, so front diff removed along with drive shafts.

GT2 spoiler fitted. I didn't want joiners for the longer hoses to the rad, so I looked in the parts catalogue and saw the 997 turbo had longer hoses about the same diameter. Much cheaper than the £300 for the GT2 items, got them for about £25 each. I also got some 10mm ally spacers made up for the bumper using the gasket as a template. Finally, I just reused the existing rad brackets and just flipped the top one, fits fine.

Loads of brackets gone for powder coating. No fancy colours, just black.

Top gear, large bore manifolds, look like good quality Turbos look good too, xona rota, tial Alpha 3076.

Engine just about built now. Need new dump valves, f pipe and a few other bits. Nothing major though, hard work is done. Matt's work really is top drawer, he's optimised everything.

Think this will be going once I get the Porsche back on the road! Been a great interim car though and I've been happy to take my time with the build

Aye, this will be the year it goes back on the road I think! Been saying it for the last 2!

I just have to add cool garage/car port, cool GTR and is that a Honda NC30 too? Good work on the hoses. I'm all for dodging the Porsche tax on parts where possible. Cracking job on the whole thing. :thumb:

Better late then never :thumb:

It's an RGV, but it's getting sold this week, I need the space. Think I'll just be keeping one car and one bike going forward so I've got a 270hp duratec Westfield that will be going this year if anyone is interested. It's a very high spec and blimmin quick. I just hardly get to use it. Done about 500 miles in 4 years.

Best update with my gearbox choice too! So I was looking 18 months for this as I knew one was out there, a 997 GT2RS G97.88. I don't want straight cut gears as this is a road car. I have straight on the westy and it suits that, but it isn't quiet. So I can't run quite as much torque, but this is a stronger box with better ratios and a diff as standard, with the proper pressurised oiling and cooling system.

Wow, this will be something else once finished. Bet it will sounds awesome.

Really stoked that you've decided to see this through OP. Will see the beast in person on Saturday, all being well :thumb:

Got my toe arms made up. Just so happens I've got a precision engineering shop at the end of my Street, he makes parts for noble and Ultima who are both fairly local, so result, ok for £30, I'll get the battery out and see if I can zinc plate them. Just waiting for the lock nuts.

GT2 embellishments, I know it's not a proper one. But. Well it's my car and I like it! Handbrake was an eBay bargain at £30!

Blimey your fleet consists of most cars and bikes I've lusted after at some point in the last 20 years. 8) Adjustable toe links are my next job. Dreading getting the boots over those inner rose joints though. Nice progress anyway. Not sure on the GT2 badging but like you say it's your car... :thumb:

They were really easy to fit. I pushed the thin end of the rose joint through the side of the boot, the pushed it through where it sticks out, then just pulled it over the rounded end of the rose joint. It's super stretchy! Took less than a minute. Warm it on the radiator if it feels stiff.

Great work :worship: PS You can't have a GT2 on GT3 wheels :sad: :grin:

Oh right. That's good to hear. I've only read of them being a ***** up until now. Are yours the McGill Motorsport ones? If not could you post a link to where yours came from. Good tip on warming them up. That's exactly what I was going to do. Probably steep them in a sink of hot water for a while before fitting, or like you say, radiator. Thanks. :thumb: PS. Trust you to mention the wheels, Jin. :grin: The later GT2s used those wheels though did they not? 996 GT2 facelift.

They are really easy to fit with the right tool. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=125503&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=300 MC

Hi Martin, yes I read that when you did yours. Isn't the tool £50+ though? Not worth it to me as I'll use it once. Well, twice then. Once for each side. :wink:

I picked mine up for peanuts, but it was probably 20 years ago. MC

Ah well. Good purchase. I'm tight and I hate clutter, so I'm not a massive tool fiend. I usually just scrounge off my dad. He might have some actually...

Aye, but genuine GT2 wheels are hens teeth and I've been looking for ages. The front wheel is the same, I just need the dish on the back, besides, I shouldn't have a sunroof either, or Bose door cards, or 997 GT3 seats or rear seats, but I want to take the kids out in it. What I might do is get some replica rears so I have the correct offset and dish, that should complete the look from the outside, I've already made enquiries with Paul French who can get them. 19" black 997 wheels are up for sale. A pic of genuine 996.2 GT2 wheels which is the look I'm after, emulated by the same GT3 wheels, except the dished rear which is also wider.

So I did a bit of home galvanising for my toe arms, but it came out black, not that I'm too bothered, maybe my zinc needs changing or I used too much volts, had good results in the past though. Used Epsom salts, vinegar and a car battery. Got the toe arms fitted. All wheels are fully studded, 68mm front, 90mm in the rear for the bigger spacers needed for GT3 wheels. Giro discs at some point, but these discs will do for now.

Bumper all fitted, active aero should work and all ducted correctly. Blimmin low though, hope it will go on the transporter ok! Unfortunately I need to get the bumper resprayed after the hurricane sent it skidding across my stone drive. Lights also need a good refurb, but I can do all the cosmetic stuff later. I've also got a new number plate for it, which I need to transfer.

So off it goes to Fearnsport for the final build! SRM fuel system and gearbox to go in.

Engine is literally ready to drop in!

Great work! It looks like a barn find though :grin:

Aye, needs a damn good clean, I'll get it cosmetically finished once the mechanicals are done.

Found myself back in the UK, so took a trip down to Fearnsport. Gearbox now attached, was waiting for the oil cooler, but that's here now. Won't be long till mapping! I'll be using the cooler without the bypass, so oil gearbox will warm quicker. It just means it'll take longer to get heat into the cabin. However, gearbox and engine should maintain an even temperature. I'm measuring the gearbox oil temp on the syvecs, sensor is already there. You can see the gearbox oil pump fitted, the cooler connects directly to it.

Fuel system and engine next. SRM hanger with a variable speed brushless pump.

Good stuff. Parked up next to my turbo I see. MC

Progress continues.

So i finally got some SRM fuel rails, I think Sean has some serious issues, after he mailed my parcel to the wrong address, i had to wait for it to be returned to him, even then he went incommunicado so i had to get a paypal refund via dispute! Eventually I got some unused new second hand ones, so worked out better in the end I guess... though i think its took 4 months! Anyway, it's back up for sale if anyone is interested 27k, receipts for 42k so far. if no buyer i'll continue. SRM fuel system is up for sale, however i might use it yet - the dual walboro's people use have a habit of draining the basket, but mine is a single brushless pump with variable rate, so i dont think i would have that problem. Also less heat, i don't want some big pumps constantly running.

It's happening, engine now in!

Still next to mine then. Both even higher at the back. :floor: MC

Nice to see it looking so complete! MC yours must be close too?

Think I ended up with your rails MC, my SRM rails fitted better on yours or something, either way, I know he's don't a good job on both.

Yes, mine fitted better on your engine, and yours better on mine MC

Ive not got to the bottom of the issue with the SRM fuel pumps. I think it could be the the fuel basket leaks. If the engine is shut off when the fuel level is below 1/4 tank and left off for a few minutes the car then will not start. There is no fuel pressure and you can hear the pumps running dry. If you turn it off and restart within a minute it will fire back up. Also I have never run out of fuel while the engine is running. Only ever if I turn off then after a few minutes it won't restart. The wiring kit is shocking. The relays melted on mine so I ended up swapping the electric kit. The fuel rails are the only part of the kit worth using. The rest is American grade crap. Matt has a good idea I think which involves doing away with the intake pump(s) and using an inline pump. That is what I'd do next. Possibly something I might as Matt to do in the future. It seems silly me carrying 1/4 a tank of fuel that can never be used.

Guys, have a word with this chap... http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=137570&highlight= :thumb:

Wow. Long build. I'm pleased it's making good progress now. :thumb:

To me it sounds like your pumps are on all the time, you should just run one with the second activated by a Hobbs switch. That said you're right, Matt asked me to sell mine and use either side of the saddle tank with an external inline pump, but I've asked for quiet brushless pumps, so they're variable and above all else, quiet, as mine is a road car.

No because I can remove the fuse on either pump and it is exactly the same. I've even opened the top of the tank when the level is below a 1/4 and seen the basket is empty. I'd go with Matts advise. I know he can be very blunt with his advise at times and I can imagine exactly how that conversation went! Thing is he's usually right. I might be unlucky with my SRM kit but who knows.

Great work I had ordered the stage 2 SRM kit from Sean, this was not up to the task, went stage 3 but 9e had to modify the rails further to deliver what was required Ken was also not satisfied with some of the fixings as quality was below par for what we required I had no issues at the time with Sean Keep the updates coming after such a long time, excitement must be mounting now ?

Faried do you have the same issue I have when the fuel level goes down below 1/4 tank?

Hi Tom Not that i am aware of

Maybe mine is an unusual problem then... I really need to investigate it further. I have had the top open and there is fuel in the tank but the basket site above the saddles and is empty.

Aren't there lift pumps to get fuel to there? I must admit I haven't studied the fuel system in detail. I am hoping I won't have to. MC

There are scavenge pipes that run down in to the corners of the tanks. If I recall these just seem to connect on to the main pump assembly. I do not recall any wires running to a remote scavenge pump as such. So not really sure how it is suppose to work. I need to find some time to investigate it really.

Looking much better in the back!

More progress, gearbox oil cooler piped up.. you can tell what Matt touch's, it's all new and well put together, so makes everything around it look old!

Beautiful workmanship as usual with Matt C. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the final outcome, I reckon it will be quick :grin:

A member on here sent me the ad for some 996.2 GT2 wheels in Germany, so they'll be coming next week. This is the car they've come from, Clauss has two very nice 996 turbos in his garage. A 12J X 18 rear is just what I've been looking for. So my GT3 set will be going up for sale.

loving the amber side markers

Bit of an update, should be commencing the fuel system and intakes then mapping and of course all the bits to get it driveable. Bought some duct covers, canards and front splitter. GT2 wheels are superb, got a 5mm spacer in the back now too. Matt could easily have done it faster, but he's been great allowing me to take it slow and keeping the progress more affordable and putting up with my for sale ads, honestly, he's been a massive help to me, his work is perfection and he's been nothing but flexible, helpful and understandable, he's the perfect gent.

Actually sold my SRM fuel system and Matt will install his own. Been enjoying my C63s lately. Totally standard at the moment until warranty runs out! Though put the bigger coupe wheels on and more tyre, but it's a lovely car for the family.

I can only agree here, which is why my Turbo is looked after by Matt. Perfection every step of the way and nothing fazes the guy. Handy that he's only just over an hour away from me, too. I can't wait to see how your car turns out Simon. :worship:

Had a drive down this morning, might be the last one till I get back in May, back to work Monday. Sitting nice on the 996.2 GT2 rims.

Also got done silver leather clad side vents, though one of them was neophrite green, so I dyed it black.

Back in the UK, went down to see matt, not much to be done I've bought fenderwell intakes from protomotive. We should be able to get fuel system in next week. Upgrading the interior too to extended leather/carbon Leather mirror triangles Leather streering column Carbon steering column base Carbon dome light cover Also fitted a red tacho:

Fitted 997 rear undertrays and brake scoops. Had to trim the wheel arch liner to allow the duct to come through, but was minor fettling. Used M6 rivnuts to secure them in place. The rear triangle gearbox protector was easy to fit, 2 of the holes were already there, so just required two holes to drill.

Will be using two of these fuel pumps, one in each saddle, held in place with foam. -8AN supply through a dual port FPR, feeding each rail. Standard fuel pump top hat is modified, Matt didn't like the silly rabbit one. He also using some incredibly specialised fuel hose in the tank and wire that is as particular spec for aircraft.

Protomotive intakes have arrived, must have took a while to print.

Fitted my function first shift right, to my short shifter, it makes quite a difference. The shift is super short though! The clutch is quite stiff without the turbo accumulator and I can't fit one as the GT2 box, has to have a GT2 slave.

Bit of luck that the exact bits I needed to finish the vents popped up on ebay, quite cheap too! Also got some leather covered rear speaker covers. The extended leather/carbon quest continues.

Another eBay bargain, just about there in my quest to eradicate all cheap plastics. Some leather defroster vents. They are Black, so assuming it's just the pic that makes them look blue! I bought some carbon inserts for them from direct car trim. I'll cover the sensor cover in the middle with leather.

Does this replace the white block part to the left of the gear stick? Mine has loads of play in that which is very annoying. Im already running the same quick shifter as you by looks of it. Do you have a uk supplier for them?

I bought mine from flat6 motorsport in the US, it replaces the plastic block thing. I had a genuine Porsche short shifter, but ended up using an aftermarket one, as my ball end was a bit worn (bit that fits into the block)

So for braking I had a full set of front and rear girodsics with Ferodo DS2500 pads, however a few things happened before I could install them. Firstly i thought about converting the GT2 box back to AWD and running a 997 front diff which i can control with the syvecs. However, that (was pointed out to me) would devalue the very rare and valuable G97/88 gearbox. Instead I've decided to stay 2WD, and instead got some front GT2 uprights which will correct the compromised front geometry. This means i'm no longer able to use the 997 Turbo 350mm girodiscs, I will need GT offsets. So they are now sold.

Fitting GT2 front uprights means I wont be able to use the B8's and H&R springs, so they will be up for sale in the near future. However, I did manage to get a full set of OEM GT2 coilovers, so these will be fitted in place.

Few options with the brakes, if i stick with steels I can get the 362mm uber 9's which will fit with my calipers and I can keep the girodisc rear and Ferodo DS2500, or i go the nuclear option and fit some PCCB's. I've got a rear pair which are in good condition and a front pair missing a left rotor - right rotor is in good shape. There is no measurable wear on the right front rotor, so i figure i can get a replacement front left and go with a full set. I was blown away by the weight of them, even if there is no increase in brake performance - they will last the life of the car if kept on the road, not produce any dust, look great, and will surely improve performance through reducing un-sprung rotational mass. Not to mention bragging rights down the pub! I have no idea why people take these off their cars and fit heavy metal discs!

I fitted the carbon insert replacements into the leather defroster trims and they've come out great!

Top gear switchable exhaust has arrived, seems great quality. I had a switchable on my GTR and it was great being able to turn it off. I'm also nice and legal with CAT's, so no worries come MOT time and it smells better.

997 GT3 Rear brake cooling ducts, these clip under the cofin arms:

Powerflex front cofin arms:

Is this build now 8 years and counting? You must be looking forward to finally driving it, how close are you? It's going to be a beast. (It's still going better than one of my motorcycle builds though!)

It's bloody close, but pandemic really screwed things. I work overseas so was away for 10 months in 2020 and 2021. So time passes really quickly. I've just got back to work and might not get back until July, then another summer passes... I've had a few cars in between though, sadly the 63 had to be sold for a 7 seater when daughter 4 came along. Just bought a duke last month! Speccing up the porker is becoming a hobby! It's also a good excuse to hang out with matt when I'm back, he's a bloody top bloke.

When is she finished? Cant wait to see 8)

Things to do Fit fuel pumps, FPR and fuel line, including flexfuel sensor Fit protomotive intakes Fit front cofin arms Fit GT2 front uprights Fit GT2 coilovers Fit refurbished brakes (PCCB) Fit rear GT3 brake ducts Fit DSS axles Fit Aly rear crossbeam Fit meth tank and controller Fit syvecs Bluetooth module Fit and wire exhaust Map syvecs

8 years!! Longest Ive ever had a car is 6 years never mind had one in bits for that long.

How come with the cash your spending on the engine and everything else what made you go with that exhaust?

Why not? Or do you think expensive is directly linked to quality? Having had their headers, which are very good quality, I wanted a good quality switchable exhaust. I think you might be underestimating them. I had a kreissieg exhaust on my GTR, if you want to look up the price of it... the reason you've probably never heard of it is because most people don't want to pay that much. You can see the state of the tubi on the built engine pics. Cats fell out of that and I did contemplate going decatted, but I want to stay legal and easy to MOT. I can assure you, the topgear exhaust is a well built and good quality item! And it's switchable, something I loved with the KSG.

Not at all, expensive doesnt mean good but cheap doesnt either. They are seperate boxes with no crossover/xpipe so you wont get the scavenger effect. iirc they arent 3" either. i paid 6k for my IPE system on my m5 was ok but not great.

I'm not sure an X pipe will have much scavenging effect with a turbo in the way, besides, my turbos will run upto 1200hp and i'm not planning to run that. When the flap is open its a straight through 3" pipe and relatively short - will see how it goes, if its restrictive I'll change it. The smaller pipes to the baffle are only active when the flap is closed. That's fine for cruising when you want it quiet, or getting up early in the summer for a hoon. Might be able to control the valve with the syvecs so it's open at WOT regardless, shouldn't be too difficult. I'll be using an OEM PSE button to override from the cockpit.

Was down at Matt's this week, suppose we should get this moving again. PCCB's fitted along with GT2 suspension and 997 cooling ducts which required the cut out shields. The brake lines need adjusting to a new home in the wing bracket as the calipers are in a different place and new lines around the upright. Drop links don't fit now either and sway bars foul ducts in the back and out of line upfront. Also fitted DSS shafts and repacked them with high quality grease. GT2 Aly cross member which won't rust.

GT2 phase 2 ten spokes shod with new rubber and cleaned up. Will be on its wheels soon.

Fuel system plumbing underway, 2 internal pumps either side of the saddle as a direct feed. Syvecs will read the flex fuel sensor on the return.

It's home! Relegated to the car port for the time being, but it's running, though very rich which is too be expected as it's on the old map.

Intakes on, fuel system plumbed and y pipe back on. Everything is fettled, adjusted and perfectly aligned. Looking around this car there is hardly anything that's been changed. The Y pipe has had extra fittings, ports blocked off and all the inner welds ground flat. Fair bit of wiring to complete: Fuel pressure sensor Gearbox temperature sensor Exhaust valves, which will be OEM PSE button and syvecs controlled Variocam control But alas, I'm back offshore for 6 weeks and next time I'm home I've got to take the family on holiday with a few million other things to do, then a big project starting in October which means I probably won't be home after that until 2025. Easy to see why this project takes so long!

Fuel pumps held in by foam down each saddle Tarret GT sway bars after it was found the turbo bars won't fit the GT uprights and coilovers. You can see the two sets of cooling ducts in the rear, which requires different plates. All heat guards were replaced and stainless fasteners used, so looking shiny. Everything has been powder coated or replaced, such as the aluminium bars underneath. You can also see the GT2 aluminium centre bracing and the cooling pipes going to the gearbox oil cooler. I also replaced all the power steering lines, clutch lines and obviously the -8 fuel line to the new FPR. Got some 997 under trays to go on too. Yep, not much that hasn't been changed or uprated. I've got a wavetrac and billet trapdoor to go in as the GT2 LSD doesn't last im told.

Is he a similar price to Hartech? And how long is the turnaround and waiting list times etc ( I’ve not heard of this company before, hence my interest)

Matt only builds mezger engines, so turbo, GT2, GT3 and various air cooled stuff. I understand Hartech only build carrera engines. I don't think theres a better mezger builder in the UK, other people may have their own biases of course. Interestingly, I pulled the map off my syvecs and Ryan was remapping the variocam back in 2014! I'll be wiring the exhaust valve to a button and the syvecs, so it will still open at WoT.

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Good reputation but unfortunately very difficult to get hold of which can be an issue when booking in projects and subsequent updates

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Fearnsport unit at Silverstone closes at the end of July. He's been winding down for months.

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That would explain it then ! What's the story, is he opening up somewhere else?

OP once completed I'd love to meet up at Elvington over next few years when time permits with my VBOX and see what this beast can do. Are you not tempted by Xona 1000 turbos as everyone in 996/997 turbo community full of praise for them. Your 996 under carriage looking new!

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They are xona rota. I think these are 980, you need the latest 3" covers for 1000. When I bought them from Tial they were still selling the Alpha 3076, so that's what I thought I was buying, but they sent me the latest offering at the time, which was the xona rota. You can see it on the cover here.

Might aswell update this then. Protomotive intakes rubbed 0n 12" wheels, so fitted a speedtech intake. Wavetrack diff fitted. Android HU fitted with extensive sound system upgrade. Map switching on HU for syvecs is pretty good. Loads of interior upgrades. New adjustable coilovers still to go on with front axle lift. Got made redundant, changed jobs, done loads of house upgrades, changed car, broke motorcycle, car has been sitting in my mate unit ready for final mapping, just not had time to do anything about it.

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Good luck getting it sorted

Incredible project , that gearbox !! I've got a really bad oil leak on my Turbo that's just sprung , I think a mouse has got in and chewed a hose , most likely the curved one that goes into the oil tank. So it's engine and gearbox out to fix it unfortunately which I've started on today. I think I saw your coolant lines had been welded earlier on in the thread , was it Fearnsport that did that ? I might as well do mine while I have the engine out.

If its the same one £600 odd, then you don't need to remove the engine. Mine was leaking on shakedown, but we just dropped the engine and got access to the top of the tank and swapped it out. I'll get pics up later. The Welded coolant line breaks into the heater circuit to flow into the gearbox oil cooler, Porsche actually have this on the cold side with a valve. Should still cool if the oil is hotter than the water, but should also warm the gearbox oil. I've got a temp sensor on it to monitor, which i can output on the android HU.

These have all been welded ..correct?

I think mine might be the one that's shaped like a Question mark ? Right hand side of the tank , middle of gearbox . That's roughly where the oil is coming from anyway so in the car I can't even see it from the top or the bottom.

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Part number.

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Ok, the one i changed was the long one next to it.

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Looks like they have

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Yep, all welded and tested.

Sorry to keep on but did you buy new billet inserts? I know there's talk of not welding the original ones as there's a mismatch in materials even though they're both aly which may lead to porosity issues.

I didn't source them, Matt did. 95% of the work has been done by him. But yes, invoice says new inserts.

New headlights?

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Wish they were that good! Nah, refurbed with an ebay kit and some laquer. Need a polish to cut the laquer in when i get them back, but they aren't perfect like new ones.