Oil Pump Removal with Engine In?

Spoilers for my not yet updated rebuild thread, but my engine is back in and running lovely. However, very annoyingly, it has a small oil leak from the oil pump snout where it slots into the engine case and supports the IMS shaft. I'm assuming that the O rings are not quite the correct size or got pinched during assembly. Either way, the only fix is to pull the oil pump off and replace / reseal those O rings. Now obviously I don't want to pull my freshly reinstalled engine back out to do this, so I'm wondering if anyone has done this before with the engine in? The other concern is that I'm pretty sure I'll need to lock the timing and loosen at least 1 if not all 3 chain tensioners. Currently my plan is: Get car back on the lift Remove rear bumper Remove rear crash bar Drain oil Drain coolant Syringe out PS reservoir Unbolt AC compressor Lock Bank 2 cams Lock crank Undo bank 2 chain tensioner Remove aux belt Remove cats Support engine from below Remove engine mounts Unbolt engine support bracket Remove oil pump cover + pump gears Remove oil pump / front console Fit new O rings + lubricate Use 10mm allen key to line up IMS shaft in order to safely reinstall oil pump body Reassemble oil pump gears + cover Refit chain tensioner on bank 2 Remove locking tools Turn engine over twice and check timing is still ok Reassemble Main questions are: Is locking the cams even necessary, and what does a 3.4 cam locking tool look like, I can only find the cam timing tools online and it won't fit with the engine in the car? Is only removing the bank 2 tensioner ok or should I remove all 3? If removing all 3, is it possible to lock both cams at the same time?

I had the same issue only it was a coolant leak from the same casting and like you just refitted the engine and filled up the system. I definitely didn't drop the engine again so it must be possible in the car. Yes I removed the chain tensioners or slackened them right off due the IMS. I'd get a new metal gasket for the coolant section. Go to P20-21 on my thread Thread '1998 996 C2 manual rolling restoration' 12 Jul 2024 So I’m lucky enough to have a super low mileage 05 Turbo that we use for road trips , just back from 1600mile holiday to Holland , Germany, Denmark and Sweden. Car went like a dream and nice to be able to open the taps for long periods in Germany. But a few weeks ago I bought a very cheap 98 C2 manual coupe with no options to speak of. It was cheap due to an engine issue but I’ll come to that later It’s actually a pretty good car, virtually no corrosion at all, it’s had a few £k spent recently on “good stuff” meaning OEM parts that always need replacement But I’m not driving it yet, I... Uncle Monty Replies: 397 Forum: Porsche 911 996 (1997-2005)

Thanks, just had a read through your thread again. So all chain tensioners loosened with the crank locked, but you didn't lock the cams? Did you check the timing afterwards? The engine has had all new gaskets as part of the rebuild so I'm thinking another new metal gasket isn't necessary.

I didn't lock the cams , I didn't feel the need but you go ahead. Didn't check the timing. The reason mine started to weep coolant was because I'd loosened some of the M6 bolts hoping to remove the entire housing and give it a good clean, then I found out the IMS was stuck in there so I didn't bother , that must have buggered up the seal (the metal gasket)

I think those metal gaskets are a 1 time use only but I'm probably wrong, it's the way I see them though as they get squashed. They're very cheap , Elring make them I think.

Yes I found that they're less than £3 from Design911 so I ordered one along with the new O rings. Hopefully will get this sorted this weekend.

Be very careful removing it, the part with the 2 seals that goes into the engine case is quite easy to snap off. I know this from experience!

I had seen that mentioned a few times but I can't understand how it would happen? The oil pump has to be pushed on along the 4 long studs before the snout of the pump even reaches the block. Surely they keep it pretty well lined up?

It's the allen key drive part that snaps is it not? never seen the casing break

Some of the studs come out with the nuts. If it’s not perfectly level pulling it out, the pressure on the casting snaps it off.

Ah I see, all of the studs stayed put on my engine so it's pretty simple to keep it lined up.