Going through my original engine - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

The original engine from my 2000 Boxster is now on the engine stand where I will be renewing the timing chain tensioner pads and any other necessary parts. The engine runs fine but the cam deviations were high so I decided to pull the engine and temporarily replace it with a spare engine that I bought. The details are here http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/79368-so-i-have-spare-engine.html#post637942 Of course I was curious to see the IMS bearing and the clutch which has been sometimes juddering and squawking. The double row IMSB is in fine shape, lots of old oil leaked out of the IM shaft but the bearing turns smoothly and has no looseness so it will probably stay, with the outer seal removed. That makes 3 IMSBs that I have inspected and all three were in good shape. The clutch pressure plate came off with difficulty because someone had used the old bolts and one had a stripped head, not impressed. The clutch disk was worn down to the rivets, but just. The disk and pressure plate are from Italy, rather than the more common Sachs. The pressure plate and flywheel look to be reusable.

And of course the motor mount was toast.

Keep us posted, I wonder what the chain pads will be like. What`s the mileage?

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Will do, and Newart wants to record the process. The chassis has 89842 mi or 144587 KM and as far as I know the engine has not been touched.

I pulled the IMSB seal and found there was still some of the original grease in the bearing, but it was hardened and mixed with a bit of oil. My stainless steel studs are installed and I made plugs for the exhaust ports so I could wash the engine

I temporarily buttoned up the IMS with the original bearing and a new o-ring, so I could wash the engine. I am still mulling over what to do with the IMSB. Pulled the coils and plugs after getting the engine reasonably clean, the coils look good, only 2 had small cracks that I sealed. The plugs look good too. Next is pulling the cam covers to check the timing chain ramps.

you sealed the coils?

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In general I don't change parts that are functional, especially if they are easily accessible. Coils that are clean with no major cracks get the minor surface cracks sealed to prevent water infiltration. Haven't had any problems yet.

The tensioner pads on Bank 2 have been replaced and I am getting ready to reassemble the valve cover. Here are the old pads, the outer one on the left is pretty well worn and starting to shed chips of plastic. The tensioner has to be compressed to remove it from the chain that runs around the camshafts. Rumour has it that there is a special tool (a long screw) available from Porsche. I could not find either a part number or a place to buy it. Other people have used zip ties to hold the tensioner in the compressed position. I tried zip ties but that didn't work well so I made my Special Porsche Tool Replacement. The real tool is a metric size and a LEFT hand thread... you won't find that at the local hardware store. What you will find is 3/16" butterfly screws 4" long. I tapped the bottom of the compression clamp with my 3/16" tap and voila a screw in compressor. I was not sure that the modified threads would be strong enough so added a washer and nut in case the threads pulled out under tension, but they were not necessary for me. I was glad I did this because after changing the pads and starting to install the cams I found an oring that is supposed to be inside one of the pads on the work bench... so the tensioner had to come out again which was a breeze using my Special Porsche Tool Replacement compressor. Next to hold the cams down I used the beautifully machined cam hold-downs from Newart. Which clamp the cams while I installed my beautifully machined Special Porsche Tool Replacement #2 which holds the cams down while the valve cover is installed.

Grant, Enjoy following your project. I made the same "Newart" designed cam hold downs when I did my project. Although I did mine with the engine in the car. Out of the car would have been much easier. I did go ahead and order reverse threaded rod for my tensioner compressor. Good luck with the project. Dave

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Thanks for the interest. You are a better man than I to do this in the car. Getting the engine out... and the spare in... was a lot of work but I'm too old to be laying on my back under the car doing the tensioner pads. In case you don't know, Newart is a friend and local Boxster enthusiast who has a Youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCohdrH2xHTklM1thxk0KKOQ We exchange a lot of tools and stuff.

Finally I have decided to replace the IMSB. I bought the same bearing that came in the engine from the factory. It is supplied by 123bearings.com (NSK BD20-17-A-DDUA17NX01-NSK) $57.79 US plus shipping. I also bought a puller to get the old bearing out. As soon as I get the camshafts reinstalled on bank 2 I plan to do this bearing. I am leaning towards removing the outer bearing seal before installing it.

Nice! Would you share more pictures of the bearing? Is it indeed identical to the original? Is the groove at the same place on the outer ring? Thanks!

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I'll do a side by side when I have pulled the old one.

I finally got the IMSB out... it was a challenge. Here is a photo of old and new... they are the same including same manufacturer. I have started a new thread specifically on the IMSB replacement so it will be more readily available for others. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/81929-my-ims-bearing-replacement-thread.html

where is this bearing made,.?? Thanks

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Made in Japan

Great! Thanks for sharing!

After having buttoned up the engine I came across this video by Jake Raby which explains a potential problem with a too much sealant blocking the oil return channels at the end of the camshafts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9F-wELxW3o I was a bit nervous because I hadn't seen the video and may have had that problem. What I was able to do was to use a piece of weed whacker filament that I pushed through the channels to eliminate any excess sealant. Worked great and took 5 minutes to do the four channels.

Three years later I had a question on the wedge I used with the bearing puller. Here are some clearer pictures. I used a rectangle of steel a about 5mm thick, 17 mm wide and 10 mm long. Then I used thin aluminum to form the wedge which is about 38 mm long. On the thin end of the wedge I bent the aluminum up like little wings to prevent the jaws of the puller from sliding off the wedge laterally. And don't forget the string which is the most important part!