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YOUR RESEARCHQuickjacks with SUV adapter (Question re flexing)
Leading reported evidence
Replace hinges
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I have had similar issues with the selection of channeling and angle steel that was welded on the door of an ATM machine.....we swapped hinges to the other side for better swing in a rather confined area of the bank. Just like the capacitor problem years ago, somebody created a bogus capacitor that worked its way into the parts mix...from some country......
Leading evidence: 'Replace hinges' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bends' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I have to do front brakes on my VW when I get home and I�ll take pics of it on the lift, check for bends.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Perhaps out of an abundance of caution theyll decide to simply replace both frames.
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Suggestion
My lift bars run the length of the car beneath the rocker panels.
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Suggestion · Original poster
With the new 5000TL you CANT use the adapters if youre going to use a harbor freight transmission jack to drop the gearbox.
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I have had similar issues with the selection of channeling and angle steel that was welded on the door of an ATM machine.....we swapped hinges to the other side for better swing in a rather confined area of the bank. Just like the capacitor problem years ago, somebody created a bogus capacitor that worked its way into the parts mix...from some country......
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Also mildly frustrating being told that I might be doing something wrong by using the factory jack points, but I understand they probably have a checklist to follow.
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Hey all, I'm getting ready to do an IMS and clutch job on my 996 C4S. I picked up the Quickjacks 5000TL last fall and just set it up. Got the car lifted with the SUV adapters, but I noticed the drivers side quickjack has some slight bending/bowing to it. Ive already reached out to Quickjacks for warranty support (not sure yet what their response time is). Its properly set up and is resting on the 2nd lock with the hydraulic pressure released (per instructions).
But, I wanted to see if anyone else has noticed this kind of flexing in their quickjacks (I'll wait to hear back from warranty support to determine if this is normal or not, and Ill post an update then). Until then, I'm not yet comfortable rolling around under the car.
Pretty sure a little flex is normal. Especially if it�s flexing same amount on both sides.
i did some prototyping with the guy who builds liftbars for 928s and 911s. Those are pretty stout square channel and they also flex. He welds a flat strap to the top to counter the flex.
I put 4 backup jack stands under my car even with the QJ. 2 under the rear of the QJ shelf itself, 2 inboard of the front wheels.
Yeah, Im hoping its normal flex but the drivers side is noticeably slightly more bowed than the passenger side. Its much easier to spot using the SUV risers versus the normal blocks; it was just enough to catch my eye. TBH, Im hoping QJ simply replaces it. Its just enough fuel for a creative mind to go down a rabbit hole of worst-case scenarios. Definitely grabbing the jackstands as backup.
My Quick Jacks are an older model, so I don't remember the model number. I don't recall ever noticing a bow like that. I have had our Jeep Grand Cherokee on it in addition to the 911, so they have been loaded. Is the more noticeable side bowed when unloaded?
These are new and rated for 5000 lbs ? And it's bending like that with about 3200 lbs on it ? What will it look like in 10 years with repeated flexing ? No thanks . Good luck 👍
I had a 5000 lb one nad never saw any flexing. I sold it to get the 7000 lb one so could work on my macan also. Much sturdier and heavier to like move it around.
I have the 5000, and have a similar flex with my 996. I didn't notice any flex when I used them for my 300ZX, with the rear engine/weight of the 996 I think its just bound to happen since the rear tray has less support than the front,
I bought the 5000TL a couple of weeks ago but still haven't gotten around to unboxing it. I'll be interested to see if I have the same flex.
I made my own lift bars and there's definitely some flex. I don't worry about it because I designed them to rest on Essco jack stands.
Kind of hard to tell but there IS flex in the bar.
This is helpful. While there is some flex in both quickjacks, the drivers side is noticeable more "flexy". Ive positioned jackstands underneath so I feel better, but Ill update everyone as soon as I have a response from QJ's support. Dont mind the mess in the background.
My lift bars run the length of the car beneath the rocker panels. This makes it a little easier to get the plastics off and to work unencumbered by the bars them selves�
I have to do front brakes on my VW when I get home and I�ll take pics of it on the lift, check for bends. For what it�s worth, I have a 7000SLX with a rail extension and use their plastic pinch blocks.
Well, I spoke with QJs support this afternoon. I�d rate the experience a 7/10. They want me to raise the car on the supplied rubber blocks to see if the flexing is still present.
They�re saying that the suv adapters may be a contributing factor, but I argued that wouldn�t make any sense with a car weighing only 3200lbs and also that others have done this. Furthermore suv adapters shouldn�t make a lick of difference whether theyre lifting a car or an suv. I pointed out this is more noticeable on the drivers side versus passenger side. Also mildly frustrating being told that I might be doing something wrong by using the factory jack points, but I understand they probably have a checklist to follow.
I�ll give them credit though, when I asked if the bowing is normal they indicated it didn�t seem so (they said some flexing could happen over 4000lbs but this wasn�t normal) and when I asked if I should take the car off the quickjacks they said yes (softball question for them but at least they answered that one right).
So at this point I have to go through a week or two of warranty support and taking new pics w the regular blocks before I hopefully get these replaced. If they come back and say it�s normal or blame it on the suv adapters again then I might blow a gasket. I wouldn�t even feel morally ok selling these off to someone else.
@preppyr6, You are correct that the suv adapters don't make a difference with the deflection you are seeing. They do make a difference with the overall stability of the car on the lift, but that is another matter. I've had some heavy vehicles on my QJ's, but unfortunately I don't have pictures from the same angle as yours - and I did not notice any deflection, but also I was not looking for it. Same as you, I employ jack stands in addition to the QJ - an extra step that could possibly save our life it the worst happens.
Based on the jack points, here is the dimension that will dictate the flex or deflection that you are seeing. My set of QJ's are rated for 5000#, but I don't know the model number. Comparing your configuration to pictures that I have of mine, I think you have a longer cantilevered (unsupported) distance. That would result in more deflection. It would be interesting to know if QJ varies that dimension based on the model/rating.
As requested by QJ warranty support, I checked out the unit without load and then again using the blocks instead of the SUV risers. Without load, the frames dont appear to bend/bow. With the blocks, they have similar flexing (as expected) to the SUV risers. What is scratching at the back of my head is whether this flex is "normal" for a unit rated at 5000lbs lifting only 3200lbs. The 5000TL is modified from the previous version to give 3" more lift, hence the cantilevered portion of the frame. If others arent seeing this in their units then its hard to determine if this is unique to my case or not; but so far my experience with the unit and with support doesnt bestow much confidence in the safety culture and quality control (including the welds!). I'll share what their response is; but I'm hoping its more substantial than "you're using it wrong with the factory jack points". Here are the pics I sent them this evening.
My overhang is 8" on my 5000 XL, but only at one end. The opposite end has the pivot at the very end.
Given the flexing seen, I would have a discussion with the manufacture.
A few months ago lifted (QJ 5000) a neighbors 2007 997.1 coupe. Unlike my 996's, it was back heavy on the lift. You could push down on the back and it would rock up on the lift. Also was some flex.We took it down promptly.
Then moved the rubber blocks from the very back of the pad platforms to the very front of the pad platforms. Lifted it back up, now it was solid as a rock. I could now push down on the rear with all my 200lbs and car was solid didn't budge.
Never noticed this with my 996 but I usually tried to center pads in the pad platform, my neighbor put his 997 all the way back, won't do that again...
So, in my anecdotal experience, huge difference in the placement of the blocks on the pad platforms and stability of lift.
With the rear engine layout make sure to place blocks as far as possible to the back of pads lift platform to center the weight better on QJ...
Just to specify what is front/back of lift. To me the back of lift is farthest from the hydraulic cylinders when in the full down position.
jmo
Hmm. I have mine the other way (hydraulic lines facing front). With 2� blocks and roughly centered in the trays on the jack points it�s rock solid, no flex. Wife�s Camry same way, rock solid, no flex. Mine is a 5000# version.
Thanks for the responses everyone; its certainly helpful. Quick update. QJ telephone support has actually been great today. They called me first thing in the morning after I sent them pics last evening as requested. They are sending me out a replacement frame for one side. They asked if the other side was also flexing and I said it was "somewhat" but not as bad as the other side. They asked for more pictures, which I sent over. I told them I'll defer to their expertise with the product if they review the pics and determine the other side is normal and safe to operate. I should have an update on that tomorrow. Perhaps out of an abundance of caution theyll decide to simply replace both frames. But for now, I'm happy with their responsiveness once the support manager and I got past that initial hurdle of whether the SUV risers were tantamount to "using it incorrectly". The warranty replacement process is quick too in the unfortunate event you need to use it; I should have the replacement frame in 2-3 days.
Do you have a caliper or other measurement tool for material thickness? I'd love to see if there is a difference in material thickness between the two parts. I suppose they could also be different due to heat treatment/hardness but that's a wee bit harder to measure...
Hey all, just a quick update. QJ replaced the one frame promptly. I sent them pics of the other side (With some flexing) and they said that is normal and safe. Overall, a good experience. I will be throwing jackstands under the QJs for extra safety and peace of mind from here on out, but they do stand by their product. Ironically, I didnt even need the SUV adapters. With the new 5000TL you CANT use the adapters if youre going to use a harbor freight transmission jack to drop the gearbox. The jack wont reach high enough. I had to swap back out for the rubber blocks, and even then it was stretch.
For IMS, RMS, clutch...so far so good.
Just an FYI,
I put my 99 C2 on the Quick Jacks today for an upcoming oil change. I peered at the horizontal load bearing members on each unit and could not discern any noticeable deflection. I have had the units since about fall of 2019.
Doug
mmmm, I wonder if the quality of steel may be the problem. I have had similar issues with the selection of channeling and angle steel that was welded on the door of an ATM machine.....we swapped hinges to the other side for better swing in a rather confined area of the bank. Just like the capacitor problem years ago, somebody created a bogus capacitor that worked its way into the parts mix...from some country...... .
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