Many of us don't have a
986
, nor have those that have it necessarily dived into this that deeply... so it might help if you provided some pictures. Wiring is wiring, so we can still help without having direct experience with THIS wire.
That said, it's probably just a crimped on connector, I'm guessing... so you'd need the right pins and the right crimper for those pins. The alternative is to solder the wire onto the pin, which may be possible with the existing pins as well... I've done repairs like that myself.
As for the connector, that will be specific as well, as the pins usually need to match the connector, too. So, if you plan to replace the pins and connector, you'd have to find matches to everything, and tools as well. For a single-time job, I would probably do the solder method, myself... but that's just me...
----------- second posting -------------
Hi all- I recently had to replace and reprogram my Immobilizer and ECU. In the process of doing so, I somehow broke off 2 wires from the pins that insert into the wiring harness that connects into the immobilizer. I do not want to do further damage which results in replacing the whole harness since the wires are in fine shape.
Can someone help explain the process to unlock those 2 pins from the harness and re-attach them to the recut wires.
Will I need new pins? If so, what pin and where can I get them? (or can I reuse the pins that broke off and salvage them?
What is the best process to reconnect the wire to the pin?
What tools would I need to complete the process of removing the stuck pins and then reattaching the wires to the pins?
Thanks guys! Been searching everywhere and came up empty...and I am not well versed in wiring in general...but trying to cut costs since this has been an expensive project already.
------------ original posting ---------- I think..
Hey guys,
I had a damaged immobilizer and sent it, the ECU AND KEy to SPECIALIZED ECU repair. They sent me the new immobilizer and ECU back (which should be synched together now)
I cleaned all the ports/plugs/harnesses and installed the new immobilizer. Everything on the car is working except the power windows and it just won’t turn over. Just one click.
I bypassed the clutch just in case… still same issue.
I checked the fuses on driver side fuse box & all seem to be good to go.
One thing to note. I tried to start the car prior to the front seats & center console being plugged back in— I think I read somewhere that could potentially screw something up?
I’m not sure… but if anyone has any ideas before I send the unit back to Specialized ECU repair to run another set of diagnostics, I’d like to try all possible remedies…
Car ran fine before the immobilizer got fried due to a leak in the parking deck during a rain storm when I had the top down.
Thanks all! I am losing my mind over here!
OK - keep your mind. Some questions:
- what's your battery voltage? A dead battery can certainly cause ALL the issues you described. The car will turn off parts of itself to protect the electronics from low-voltage damage.
- do you have ANY diagnostics equipment? I'm assuming you don't have any Porsche specific diagnostics tool, am I correct in that? It might be worth considering getting one if you intend to continue DIY'ing your 986.
- Was it just the immobilizer that got fried? There are other electronics lurking under the seats and low in the cabin. Have all of them been examined?
- You said you "cleaned all the ports/plugs/harnesses" - how? Did you disassemble the large connectors to the immobilizer and any others that might have gotten wet? If they have a hard plastic shell over the back, that can usually be removed and it would be worth making sure there isn't any corrosion inside the connectors that might be causing problems.
- AFAIK - the immobilizer has nothing at all to do with the windows. That and the click you hear when turning the key again make me want to emphasize point #1 above.
- Where is the click noise coming from? I believe the starter relay is somewhere up in the dash. If it's from that relay that means the immobilizer is OK since it won't allow cranking if it thinks the car is stolen. If it's from the engine compartment - same thing - it's the starter solenoid trying to pull in - and that won't happen with a bad immobilizer.
My suggestions to you are:
have it flatbedded to a pro. Throwing parts at it is a very expensive means of troubleshooting on a German car.
if #1 isn't possible - answer all the questions I asked above. They may bring some enlightenment. Or not.
If you don't have a voltmeter - get one. Even the $3.99 Harbor Freight one is better than nothing.
If the battery is reading below 12.5V standing voltage - it's probably badly damaged. If it's reading below 12.3V, it's toast, go buy a new one. If it dips below ~11.7-11.9V when cranking - that puppy is never gonna start. New battery.
If you don't have any diagnostics tool - I'd suggest a quick scan of our diagnostics forum, and probably purchasing a Foxwell NT530. It will be the best $200 you'll spend on the car. Once you get it you can run a scan on the car and find out if things aren't talking to each other. If you do have some sort of diagnostics tool - run an OBD-II scan on the car and tell us what it finds.
BTW - Welcome to
Planet-9, the Friendly Porsche Forum that doesn't charge for advice..
When you get the car running and prettied up we want a real intro message in the new members subforum complete with multiple photos of your pride and hopefully soon joy..
Sorry folks - if this thread appears bollixed up - that's because it is. The original poster posted in two different forums with the same basic question - ie - his car won't start and the windows won't go up. In one post he gave more information than the other one. One was in the correct technical forum, the other was in general chat.
He only had those two posts. I tried merging them into one thread - and his posts went away and reappeared in Schwinn's reply to him. I have no idea how this happened, but there'ya go.
OP - if you want to continue the discussion, please do it in THIS THREAD. It's frustrating having to move and merge threads and then have posts in them simply disappear.
Back to our regular program now...
BTW - I'll edit
@schwinn
's post and italicize the original postings.
