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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 3.6 Engine Rebuild
Reported or suspected cause
failed cam chain tensioner
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause · Original poster
The ‘rattle’ you get when first starting was caused by a failed cam chain tensioner.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A lot of people rebuild their Limbach motors with VW cast iron cylinders but the case and heads need some machining and the compression ratio checked & adjusted.
Leading evidence: 'failed cam chain tensioner' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'failed cam chain tensioner' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check &' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A lot of people rebuild their Limbach motors with VW cast iron cylinders but the case and heads need some machining and the compression ratio checked & adjusted.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
This is very interesting...I bought one from FVD for exactly this reason and the reviews and blurb said the extended sump, trap doors and changed pickup solves this issue.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And there 'rebuild kit' they put together for me was also cheaper and used oem porsche parts.
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LN can provide Carillo rods, but I have used Pauter in 4 cars and they haven't failed.
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Check &
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A lot of people rebuild their Limbach motors with VW cast iron cylinders but the case and heads need some machining and the compression ratio checked & adjusted.
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Suggestion
If you need to rebuild then rebuild, but if you have spare change I think you would be better spending on front shocks/springs, grippy rubber and some professional lessons to get the most out of what you have.
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This is very interesting...I bought one from FVD for exactly this reason and the reviews and blurb said the extended sump, trap doors and changed pickup solves this issue.
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Suggestion
Phillip island while higher speed is much more open corners where you balance the car on the throttle and really play with the cars balance and has significant run off areas where you are unlikely to brick a car.
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Porsche Forum Australia: 1 discussions
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I had a previous post where I was going to get the 4.0 upgrade but costs have blown out for the upgrade by more than 50% out for that in the last 12 months so not an option now.
My 3.6 needs a rebuild and I would prefer to give it a bit more power in the bottom end.
I thought about buying a 996 twin turbo motor but my mechanic said there wil be cooling issues.
Anyone had any experience in upgrading a 3.6?
It will become Haunted Hills/Sandown track car and weekend toy.
Thanks for any thoughts.
Have a look at a few vids in this thread:
Granted it's a 997 but I imagine the same applies i.e. the engine is optimised from factory and bolt on mods will only lighten your wallet. Anything else will cost big bucks, but if I was rebuilding I'd go 3.8 P&Cs, balanced rotating assembly, cams and valve springs, and exhaust. More bang for you buck upgrading suspension, brakes etc. than sinking a significant sum into a 4.0.
End of last year I was quoted $25k for the 4.0 upgrade.
Went back this week to sy ok lets do it and they said it was now approx $40K.
The 3.6 pulls like all hell above 2500-3000rpm, I would like more oomph in the low ramge.
It already has sport exhaust and K&N intake air sustem.
As far as upgrading to a GT3, house to renovate{again] so not in the budget.
My thoughts are I have to rebuild the engine anyhow so why not spend a little extra to give it a bit more power.
No, my mechanic was organising the rebuid and the motor was going to be sent to the States.
I was going to send it in one of my containers but Coronavirus put an end to that side of my business.
The Hartech 3.9 with its innovative strengthening 'skirt' has outstanding reviews on the UK 996 Forum. They have done 1000/s, but they are over there. I don't believe anyone in Australia has the same experience, but I may be quite wrong. I agree with one response above about looking for a decent Mezger-engined 996Turbo, but family costs come first.
Strip the engine here and send the bare block.
Rebore and new pistins.
They said the US component was approx $10k usd, ADD shipping of engine, bring it back do other work that may be needed then send to Sydney to get it remapped?
Do we all think a normal rebuild should be $25k? I do not have any idea.
I have had 10 years of fun, and low costs on this car. Everything else is great on the car just needs a new power plant with a bit more power
~$25k seems to be the going rate to re -commission a 996 that has consumed its IMS and sprayed it to every part of the engine, that seems reasonable that you could procure barrels and pistons in an over bore size for ballpark same money given you are addressing wear not scraphnel. It makes no financial sense to do it but you obviously plan to keep the car so the value is in your enjoyment not in the resale.
ive got to say I have driven a good few 911s the past 20 years and I can’t recall ever getting out and saying I need more power to have more fun / go quicker. If you need to rebuild then rebuild, but if you have spare change I think you would be better spending on front shocks/springs, grippy rubber and some professional lessons to get the most out of what you have. 996 with decent exhaust has plenty of punch for most.
And while I am giving free advice (for a change) you may want to think about Phillip island instead of Sandown. Sandown is essentially a multiple 90 degree corner track dominated by two long straights that doesn’t play to the strengths of a 911, and it has a lot of close Armco and concrete. The more you do track days, the less fear you have and Sandown is a place that can really bite hard. I have 2 friends that have destroyed single seaters there. Phillip island while higher speed is much more open corners where you balance the car on the throttle and really play with the cars balance and has significant run off areas where you are unlikely to brick a car.
IMHO...
Car still drives. Blows a bit of smoke on start up but still drives well and pulls hard. 240,000KM.
Not worried about resale.
My daughter and I love drive days at Phillip Island!!
I always think I'd like more power - then think about trading to a Turbo - then think $40k+ to upgrade and on road costs...
then a little devil voice says Supercharger and I have to stop looking at the internet....what could possibly go wrong?
Has anyone here done this to a 996?
Jim.
I recently rebuilt my 996 3.6L into a 3.9L. Purchased the car needing a rebuild so I cannot help with the torque comparison. It seems to have a great amount of torque down low/mid though!
I stripped the engine myself and sent the block to Hartech to have there oversize nickasil cylinders installed and oversized pistons supplied along with a full engine rebuild kit/IMS shaft the lot. You could have a local mechanic overhaul the engine and ship it to Hartech or the state's to have nickasil liners installed. Hartech was way more reasonably priced.
Keep it simple. Rebuild maybe with a few shinier bits but don’t go nuts.
Look at maybe changing up some of the gear ratios.
Spend any savings on a brake and suspension upgrade. Second set of wheels with some R rubber would be worthwhile as well.
That would be my top tip, don’t waste $$$ chasing the HP. Improving the handling will make it more fun to drive than the HP.
My 2 cents.
Interested in this thread. Are you able to share indicative pricing? LN Engineering list their bottom end 3.8 upgrade for the 996.2 3.6 at ~$5k USD. Is Hartech cheaper than that?
An interesting comparo on some different approaches to making the 6.1 more fun (probably equally as applicable to the 6.2):
https://rpmtechnik.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/mag06_compressed.pdf
Thanks Mike,I will follow them up Monday morning.
After you giving Greta track lessons who do you think is saying "Dad, make it go harder".
I should not have let her go on the track with you!
😂
😂
As the owner of an apparently healthy but high mileage 3.6, this is an interesting thread. Perusing Rennlist can make one paranoid to say the least! I'm visiting there less and less, although it remains a fantastic resource to google for specific resolutions to issues.
I'm realistic though that an engine refresh is most likely a sensible thing to do if I'm to keep the car for a while. Even if only to do the chains and guides etc, plus main bearings seem to have a comparatively short lifetime (not surprising given the daft cantilevered crank!). It would have been nice to hear there was someone in Oz doing the full liner replacement as per the two well known shops in the US/UK but I guess the market is just too small to have anyone specialising in such work. If requiring or simply desiring that, sending the case halves to Hartec seems like the best option.
I will be ringing Greg Bailey in the morning about the upgrade /rebuild.and I will put an update onto the forum.
Any other questions anyone wants me to ask?
Hartech where cheaper only because of shipping. And there 'rebuild kit' they put together for me was also cheaper and used oem porsche parts. they also organised pickup of the block on there end. The 3.9L Liners/Pistons/pins etc came in at 4500 GBP. All up the 3.9L conversion, Rebuild kit, updated IMS shaft and everything needed to rebuild my engine came in at 8,017 GBP which Google tells me is around 14,500 AUD.
Highly recommend Greg Bailey. Awesome bloke and is very knowledgeable on the m96 engine.
I finished the rebuild a couple months ago. Since then the car has completed around 2,000kms of faultless driving. I had abit of guidance on the engine overhaul from Greg himself, super helpful.
Spoke to Greg, very nice helpful guy.
Here is the run down.
He gave me 4 Options.
1. 997 3.6 Motor 80k km swap $12k for engine and approx $3k labour stripping parts from my engine,electrics,k &n intake etc Lets say $15/16k
2. Rebuild my motor $20k max but he does not think it need a total rebuild. Heres hoping.
3 Hartech 3.9litre rebulid of my engine approx $30k
4. 4.0 litre upgade approx $40k.
In his words rebuild mine. The upgrades do not make that big a differance for what I need.
I am thinking rebuild mine, buy some new wheels tyres for track days,maybe a little bit of suspension work and have some fun!
I feel keeping the original motor is the best thing to do, even though it is a water cooled!! matching numbers will me nice!
Stick to the rebuild of the original motor at least the car will be matching numbers if nothing else plus the rebuild will make it more sellable down the line.
What sort of pistons/bore is with option 2? It seems this is the most tricky part of the m96 refurbishment. Thin alusil bores, cantilevered top and bottom, prone to scoring/ovalling/cracking... a difficult part to breathe new life into. If I understand correctly, the two main players bore the original liners away completely.
Australian engineers have historically been brilliant at just this sort of thing - fixing something locally that is too expensive/difficult to send back or buy new.
I have seen Greg’s work first hand on rebuilds and he knows his stuff on the m96/7s.
Even doing the bore increase to a car here in the UK does not stack up $ wise for me.
Good luck with the build, a fresh engine is always a nice thing to have.
True Steve. Swapping out worn components for new ones can't always do the job properly or at a reasonable price. However, I found when getting the rebuild of my 68 2.0L done that there is a dearth of good engineers in QLD who can do the crucial boring, shaping and other modifications to heads, barrels, valve seats, cranks, etc. Mine had to go to Melbourne for some work and fortunately there was one elderly engineer with the expertise on the metal work here in Brisbane.
Spot on, I trimmed my previous post to remove the bit bemoaning the fact that most such engineers are dying out and only baristas, hairdressers, computer games designers, social media influencers etc are following in their wake...
As a noob, I thought I should avoid offending any baristas, hairdressers, computer games designers or social media influencers who may be present.
These skills are (still) out there, but often hard to locate or simply aren't taking on work. I know of two guys specifically in Sth Brissie who are absolute guns at exactly the work you needed done above, but they are not 'on the Porsche radar', don't advertise and are full up working on their own niche stuff. They're also probably both getting toward/into their 60's (which I'm finding is not as old as I used to think it was!) and as I mentioned there's no obvious successors.
I started out as a machinist, and can bore a hole and turn up a sleeve. But going from that to refurbishing an M96 crankcase to go hard for another 250,000km or more are two different things, and there would be a lot of design and understanding required to come up with a reliable solution such as what Hartec has done.
Anyway, what I was interested in is what piston/bore solution is included in Philip's 'Option2' above. Is someone doing full liner replacements in Oz, that would be great to know. I'm new to the Porsche scene but had never heard of Greg Bailey, checking out the website that's some amazing stuff!
Sorry but I did not get down to piston/bore solutions.
The discussion was more what are my options.
As I said he gave me 4 which is great!
He also said whole engine may not need redoing but I think at 240k a few things will need doing!!
Greg said he just rebuilt his own 2004 3.6 engine to stock so he knows what to expect.
He said once he has the motor out and apart he will know! I guess I decide then how far the rebuild goes.
Only other issue now is going more than 5km from home in the next 6 weeks to deliver the car to him!
Thanks for the info, it would be interesting to hear how you get on and what methods are used.
Sympathies for the movement restrictions, it's a diabolical situation.
The $10k bump in price for the Hartec 3.9 is understandable since it would imply sending the crankcases to the UK, six super duper liners and a new set of pistons. Yet another $10k for the 4.0lt is presumably a stroker crank as well for that money? Doesn't make sense otherwise since the cost of pistons and crankcase work would be similar whether it be 3.9 or 4.0 on the same stroke.
It would be interesting to know what piston/bore work is included in the 'Option2' you mentioned.
Do you know what sleeves he is going to use? Flat 6 / LN Engineering use the Nikasil "Nikkies", however a Google search says there is a place in Victoria "Electrosil" that can also Nikasil coat bores etc...
Electrosil (L M Electroplating) in Greensborough, Melbourne replated our cylinders. Their new Nikasil plating started flaking off after 160 hours of use – I guess this would be the equivalent of about 12,000 kilometres. We had an hour meter not an odometer.
Looking around the net, it seems that Nikasil is supposed to be coated thinly and gets brittle if too thick. The photo attached of our failed cylinder looks to me to be a very thick layer of Nikasil.
Electrosil would not refund the job but did offer to do the replating again. The super hard Nikasil (Nickel Silicon Carbide) flakes created an enormous mess inside our engine so I wouldn’t risk it again. The Nikasil would have just ended up thicker anyway.
The failed Nikasil re-plating job is from a German Limbach L2400 motor which is basically a Type 25 VW WaterBoxer with the water shrouds machined off and air cooled cylinders and heads installed.
Limbach also make a L2000 2 litre based on the VW Type 1 motor. They have horrendously expensive Nikasil cylinders. A lot of people rebuild their Limbach motors with VW cast iron cylinders but the case and heads need some machining and the compression ratio checked & adjusted.
In the VW world there are heaps and heaps of different sized air cooled cast iron cylinders / piston kits. If you could get the correct case flange size it might be possible to machine the other end to fit your Porsche heads.
That seems to be poor customer service. I see that LN Engineering now make the parts for water cooled motors (or have been for some time). I got a set of pistons and barrels from them for my 68, 911 and they were superb. No cheap however
https://lnengineering.com/products/parts-and-upgrades-for-porsche-boxster-cayman-and-911-engines/m96-engine.html
IMPORTANT:
Please don't get
LN Engineering
and
L M Electroplating (Electrosil)
mixed up.
Different companies. My failed Nikasil replating job was done by
L M Electroplating
which trades as
Electrosil
In Greensborough, Melbourne
.
Rob
Fifteen months later and my car has not progressed,Thanks Covid!!
Works on my house has though.
In previous post Greg Bailey was mentioned and I was very impressed with him an was about to send my car to him
I rang and said I was getting a tilt tray organised and he said SORRY NOT WORKING ON PORSCHES ANY MORE, I have a new direction I am going!
Back to square one.
I have my 996 GT3 track wheels and tyres!
Decided to make it a 996 GT3 Touring.
911DESIGN UK have a central exhaust, rear bumper,gt3 evo front bumper and Recaro seats.
Shipping is so cheap.
L and N 3.8 will cost $10K door to door and then other engine costs.
Going to keep the GT3 suspension I have.
Recaro Alacantra seats and 5 point belts as well.
Look at the photo but without wing!
That's a bummer.
How much time had passed between when you spoke to Greg about doing the job, and when you actually called to say, "let's do it"?
Curious to know how long he has not been doing Porsches. I spoke to him just last week and he did mention that he was not doing them but I got the impression it was a decision he might have made a while ago.
Problem is, the cost to rebuild a water cooled motor makes up a sizable percentage of the value of the car... so most people ask for a 'cheap option'.... I tend to stay away from requests for 'cheap rebuilds' in general however I have been told that my overall costs are extremely reasonable.
I've not done a water cooled motor yet. But I do plan to do it.
I spoke to Greg within 24 hours of you recomending him as I mentioned previously,
I got in contact just before Easter to say LETS DO IT! and that is when he said sorry.
Very nice about it but just not doing Porsches anymore.
Shame, I was really impressed with his attitude and knowledge.
Let’s all gang up on mike and tell him what to do
Someone has to find him a car to buy first. I hear he has a 3,2 looking for an engine bay to live in.
yep, I think you left it too long unfortunately. He has found too many people who dont want to spend 30k on a 60k car.. and a lot of his hours he could not account for.
But he has moved onto higher end toys where he can make a decent living. I cannot hold that against him.
You are right; he is very knowledgable and a great guy to deal with too.
I am in the middle of an aircooled 3.2 for a client.
After that I think I have a 3.0 to do too..
Then I have to do something with the 3.2 project motor I have. Plan is to rebuild into something a little more than stock.. and then find a car to put it in.
OR perhaps someone wants to buy it and have me build it to their spec.. we could bore and stroke it out to 3.55 litres...
But once that is done, I want to have a go at a watercooled motor. I dont have any of the manuals or tools yet though, so it would require significant investment for who knows what sort of return...
Cancelled the Recaros, I have just seen they are the same price in Australia.
Front and rear bumpers are out of stock so they are getting a delivery date for me.
Edited
14June, 2021
by philipk
Spelling mistake
I am finding the same issue with gettign my engine rebuilt. LN Eng. getting just the cases/liners and pistons back to Oz was insanely long delivery time as well as $10k++.
Still going to fit the supercharger to existing engine and see what happens and then work on a new engine on the side. But if I find someone or if you do let me know.
What is it that costs upwards of 30k to rebuilt a water-cooled (non Mezger) motor?
A friend (ex 964 owner) told me he was too scared to buy an older Boxter for this reason and was looking at Nissan 350Z's as a toy for a few years.
Yes, I would have no idea where to start, to find someone to sleeve one of these locally, but surely it must be doable within Aus?
So you sent your cases to LN and had them fitted with steel liners? Do they also supply new pistons to suit the steel liners? What about rods?
I guess if you spend 15-20k on an old Boxster, and you blow it up, the most you can lose is $15-20k...
Then you can donate the body to someone like Homebuilt Jeff who will put a lambo engine in it or something like that...
So I have Pauter rods already as they stay standard length etc. LN can provide Carillo rods, but I have used Pauter in 4 cars and they haven't failed.
LN provides liners and JE pistons to fit the bore size you chose and fits them. I asked about gettign cases there and sending over but they seemed a little uneasy due to supply etc. I think.
They aren't steel they are "
special aluminum alloy with both high ductility AND strength" which are then Nikasil coated. There are many bad stories with steel liners in M96/97 blocks. It seems its due to the aluminium in the block seemingly expands/contracts a lot more than the steel or
simply cracks with a tight interference fit. No experience with that, but it is all tied with the "d-chunk" issue as well apparently.
I figure my block has 220,000kms on it...if it was going to break it would have by now if it had casting defects...
It is a hard one. I would love to be able to do it in OZ. I think sending it to LN is the best option because they do so many.
If ANYONE can tell me someone in Australia who can do it ,please do.
After more research and talking to Darren Bell at Auto coupe it looks as though sending the block to L&N in the States is the best option for what I want to get out of the motor.
Would have LOVED 4.0 but they are only doing it on late 997 engines at this stage.
A rebuild/refresh will happen at the same time obviously. Stay tuned!
😀
HI, so in this case, you are not sending the cases to the usa to have them fitted?
Is having your original liners machined out and fitting the new ones, a specialised task? Who are you using in Aus to complete this part of the process?
LN are going to do and they are currentyl tryign to source a case so I don;t have to send mine over and not have a running car for XXX months...I spoke to Autowerks on the Central Coast NSW and they know shops that can replace standrd sized liners as these are availabe in both aluminium and steel apparently....Still considering if I follow through with LN given time needed.
I really wanted a 3.8lt or 4.0lt with the supercharger kit, however I might just build a 3.6 as strong as possible and use different pulley sizes if required...
I thought about the supercharger but decided going to a 3.8 was more what I wanted. My car has been off the road since covid started so the turn around time for LN
does not worry me. I spoke to SO many people about building my 3.6 so it would go like I wanted and nearly everyone said go to a 3.8 with the odd few just saying buy a GT3!
No one even mentioned a supercharger but I was never going to go that option anyhow.
The engine is coming out tomorrow to start the tear down! Then off to L&N for the 3.8 conversion.
Ordered my central exhaust and it is on the way. Suspension is going to be done as well.
I know they never made one but I am building my version of a 996 GT3 Touring!
Watch this space!
This was the email this morning and all I know.
Hi Philip,
You picked a good time to do your engine up. As I suspected, the ‘tapping’ type noise from your engine is fairly bad ‘Bore Scoring’ on cylinder 5 particularly. See the bottom photo. It is a bit of a phenomenon of the 996 / 997 engine. What we are doing solves this problem.
The ‘rattle’ you get when first starting was caused by a failed cam chain tensioner. No issues there, just a replacement part required.
The car had a chain rattle on start up and bit of smnoke on start up. They said oil/water seperater needs replacing.
The amazing thing is it still pulled as hard as hell when abouve 2500-3000 revs.
I was told when I bought the car at 100,000km " you will need a rebuild at 250,000km" and I thought the smoke and rattle were pretty good warning signs.
Went and had a look today! Engine out, all cleaned up, stripped and ready to go to America to become a 3.8.
Decided we need new conrods, probably Carillo.
Thought about putting a deeper sump on it but It already is lousy clearance.
Chain tensioner was STUFFED in no uncertain terms.
I am going to tweak the suspension! Just got the email from DHL ,my exhaust has landed in the country!
More news, L&N have said since I am sending it from Australia they will do the 4.0 upgrade at no extra cost!!
WOW!
I am sure I will need a few extra bits to go with 4.0 upgrade!
I am now thinking about the deep GT3 sump with a sump guard.
No, They are reboring the block.
I then get new pistons,rings included. I am buying new conrods and will decide on other bits.
Once they get the block it takes 6-8 weeks so I have time to sort it.
The way it is looking I will have a hell of a motor at the end of it!!
Excited!!My central exit exhaust arrived today.
7 days from UK. Thanks Design911.
Might have to change outlet size?
I will measure a 997 GT3 exhaust next time I see one.
Anyone here tell me outlet exhaust diameter?
May as well fix up the rest of your oil system properly it if you can with x51 scavenge style system which is known to work. This would help argue your resale/insurance value further if you ever came down to it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i_EDjK7p8I
I hardered up my rear suspension and take what I can at an angle to combat issues with the deep sump whilst in urban areas of Speed Humpville, Pothole Town & Tram-hump Ridge
Thinking about a 3rd front radiator for extra cooling. A good idea? Thoughts anyone?
Going to go with the extended GT3 oil sump for extra capacity.
X51 scavenge pump, not cheap. Do I need it for a track toy?
Not a full blown race car but?
It is going to be Sunday drive, Haunted Hills, Phillip Island track etc days toy.
I am thinking better off spending on suspension instead. Thoughts?
Seats and 5 point harness as well.
If you go with the enlarged oil sump I strongly suggest you get a sump guard. Presuming you will lower the car it gets really easy to hit the sump on the ground, speed bumps etc.
I fitted one of these and while it means I can no longer reverse my car into my garage the protection is worth it:
https://lnengineering.com/bilt-racing-911-2-quart-deep-sump-stainless-steel-guard-plate.html
Common advice seems to be don't fit a 5 point harness without at least a proper half cage:
http://www.tracktuned.com/feed/2016/5/26/harness-bars-without-rollbars-and-a-trackday-organizers-thoughts-on-them
My Daughter Greta, who a few of you know is more aggressive than me and faster around Phillip Island than me.
But she weighs alot less than me so that is a time saver for her. Thats what I tell her anyway.
Hugh is no help, he tells her GO FASTER!
Safety is VERY important thats why the 5 point and bar.
Anyone got a half cage for sale?
You are no help after her going in your car!!
Engine is 12 week turn around, while that is going on other things will happen.
We are both excited!
Can't wait till it's first drive day!
Personally after reading about 5 point and six point harnesses I would not consider them without at least a half cage.
Presumably by fitting harnesses you can also fit a HANS Device which is a massive safety improvement if, God forbid, you run into a wall.
I would definitely be using the extended sump as from all I have read oil starvation can be a reall issue on track days with long radius corners. If you;re doing a new engine build, I wouldn't risk it.
Roll cage, half of 5 point IMHO is always the right way to go for track days
This is very interesting...I bought one from FVD for exactly this reason and the reviews and blurb said the extended sump, trap doors and changed pickup solves this issue. I looked at an Accusump also and sounds liek this might be a future upgrade as well.
Have the sump guard, also. Note that a lot of people recommend to up some dampening on it as they can setup a resonance or vibration that can be heard in the car. I had this on mine and used some heat reflective sound deadening. Worked a treat.
This is the FVD sump I purchased as it has the baffles in it.
NB: Also apologies to
@philipk
as I feel like i may have hijacked your thread.....
I looked at the Accusump and ultimately decided the cure was as bad as the disease so to speak.
The big factor is the semi slick tyres. Porsche actively recommends
against
track days with semi slick tyres on the 996. I thought that with a baffled sump that contains 12 litres of oil, starvation would not be an issue. I was proven wrong.
I have a set of rims with semi slick tyres for track days.
FVR have the deep oil pan in stock which is great.
L&n is going to be a 10-12 week turnaround so if I decide on scavenge pumps or something else I have time to order.
Ok, so i just got the list of extra parts they recommend . probably go with most of them.
Also getting the deep sump with baffles from Germany. Thanks 911CSR.
All prices USD
Yes, I know. Not cheap but have to do it for the engine.
Not worth taking a chance.
Going to delete the motorsport oil/water seperator.
This is just a fun track /Sunday car not a race car.
😁
How do Customs & GST treat you for getting your Au engine reconditioned?
In the old days it was much better (tax wise) to send your specialist broken stuff O/S as you are doing. Do the Authorities still 'smile' on you - or have they caught up with things?
Seats!!
Thinking about seats, Recaro pole position or Recaro Sportster CS?
I am thinking Sportster?
Have not been able to compare because of lockdown.
Thoughts anyone?
I have the Sportster in mine and love them. I used the Planted seat bases and Recaro rails (have a spare set of two (2) sliding Recaro rails if interested).
Really comfortable and I am 6ft and just under 100kgs. Before things got crazy again I did a weekend trip from the Central Coast to Canberra and back and no issues at all. Still have access to rear seats etc., kids love them too and hold you tight enough for the weekend drive through the hills.
@philipk
Can post photos if you like.
Finally got the email {and the final invoice} from L&N.
Works done and engine and parts ready to ship back to Australia!!
Update and some photos when it arrives!
Exciting times. The rebuild of my 3.6 to a 4.0 has begun!
See attached photos.
Body panels are stuck on the wharves in LA!!!
Hopefully be on their way in the next few weeks.
Finally collected the car this week and running it in. Of course it cost more than expected but these things happen.
Certainly got a lot more go in it but I am being gentle. Still needs Wheels, body panels,central exhaust and seats fitted.Thinking about a half cage. Late Feb for all that.
Body parts are running late of course. Now arriving Wed next week.
Just arrived are my 2 Recaro Sportster seats with airbags ,$2400 the pair from a seller in South Australia. At least I save money on something.
I have BBI seat mounts on the way from the States! Got to sort harness and mounts yet.
Harness bar or Half cage[maybe wrapped in alacantra}. Hopefully by end of March all done!
may I ask on how much the 4.0L built plus freight cost? Ball park figure is fine.
I know of a 996 that has a cooked motor and thinking of doing a full built to 4.0L but want to make sure I am not dreaming.
Cheers
I've got the Sportster's in mine and love them. Used the Planted bases and Recaro sliders. Only things I noticed were that the seatblet extenders make life easier and the recliner mechanism dosen;t let the seat go all the way back.
All up the engine was approx $30k.
Thanks for that. As i mentioned I have the BBI bases coming in from the states.I was advised they were the way to go.
GREAT SEATS!!
What would you do if you delivered a car with an exhaust system to a mechanic and then months later they said "Sorry, you never gave it to us. Buy a new one" What hapened to trust!!
Sold it to another client maybe?? Their responce "Sorry cannot find it, if we find it we will reimburse you!"First item I bought for the car.
FUCK!!
Totally pissed off is an under statement!!! Seriously thinking about going nuclear on social media at the moment.
They did a great job on the 4.0 conversion but REALLY pissed off!!
That's really shit
@philipk
No names here, but sadly it's not the first time I've heard that about Porsche (and other) shops 'misplacing' parts, then denying they were there.
I trust noone now mate
Hope it gets sorted soon
Careful. We all know about a certain member here doing that, then receiving a cease and desist letter from the company lawyers!
I'd be hounding the shop until they cough up if it was me
I am going to see them in the morning.My best mate has given them $500k of restoration work in the last 12 months and told me to go to them.
They better sort it it out.
Mate super concerned to hear. I have been in a similar situation with a $4,500 turbo at a shop. I now always keep a register and photos of everything dropped off for work/servicing.
