IMS 996 question for the Illuminati.

I am going to have the IMS done (IMS soution - oil fed-  permenant fix) as I just don't have the readies or risk tolerance for the possibility of being in the 1 to 5% of catastrophov failures. I have watched @MFX video on IMS replacement (manual car/ unsure if tipper is substantially different).  I have also watched a few Youtube (fontofallknowledge) vids re IMS replacement. All these show a punter doing the IMS on a hoist dropping the transmission only (engine stays in) & replacing the IMS solution, then replacing trans & smiling all round. My question is, I have obtained a quote from a 'respected' indie here in Brisbane.  Quote allows for 12 hours approx to drop out the engine & gearbox, seperate gearbox & drive plate, secure cam shafts, complete IMS replacement, replace rear main seal, fit new cam plugs, fit new engine oil separator & refit everything.  Parts for IMS solution is quoted at $2670 plus GST $2937.00, labour is $1820.  Total $4757 approx. Does the engine need to come out?  Or is this "excessive"?  I have little engine knowledge so am just making sure I am educated before accepting quotes. Thanks in advance.

I've not heard of anyone removing the engine for the ims. I can't think of any advantage of doing it out of the car.

I've got the receipts for the IMS Solution/RMS/AOS done on mine in 2019 - about $1k cheaper than your quote, but mine's manual which I understand is less labour than a tipper.  I also think Sydney has a few more tech options, so there is maybe a little competition to bring the price down?

The price sounds about right, mine was done 5 years ago, Ims Solution was just under 2k All up with a new Rms fitted was a tad over 5K. And a Tipy.

Quotes source post: 337326

Recently been speaking with PR Technology (Sydney) regarding 996 IMS replacement. They removed the engine for a recent job which was also the "Solution' oil fed option... No other major reason they mentioned for engine out, but whilst it was, they also did various other tasks and preventative type maintenance.

Quotes source post: 337331

"Back in the day", I always pulled the engine and gearbox together on AC cars - much quicker and easier.  And then you had the luxury of being able to service anything 'whilst it was out'.  I imagine these newer/WC cars are much different, all the photos I've seen have just had the gearbox pulled.

A bit more work with a tipper over a manual which means more $$ I had the lm engineering replacement which I think was about $2500

Quotes source post: 337335

would you/ could you list the other preventative measures please?  Just for interest sake in case I may want to incoporate the "while you're there" stuff........

My pick for other would be waterpump, AOS and thermostat.

I know mine is different to a 996 but I had talked with Buik's in Adelaide and they said my 986S would be easier as it was a manual and thus no need to remove the motor.

Quotes source post: 337348

thx @Rob H , I might just ring Buiks & ask the question re difference between manual & tipper.  Cheers.

Just thought  I check the paper work  from the Ims soultion  being fitted, It is quite  a detailed account of work  done , And all work was done with the engine in the car.

As I understand it, manuals can be done with engine still in, but tippers require the engine and gearbox to be removed as a unit.  There must be something that prevents removing the gearbox from the engine in situ??  I've also heard that replacing the AOS is hard but possible on a manual, but an engine out job in a tipper, so there's evidently generally less space to work.  That agrees with what your shop has quoted you. "While you're at it" list could include: AOS Coolant reservoir and cap Waterpump/t'stat (if original, also perhaps install low temp t'stat??) Oil filler tube (breaks with age and hard to change in situ) Perhaps injectors (a bore scoring culprit according to FSI) Oil pump hex drive (if you're really paranoid, it's not clear how real this issue is) Check all over-engine pipes/hoses when engine is out and replace any suspect ones.  The UK crowd seem to have a set list of hard pipes to replace due to corrosion but it doesn't seem to be an issue here with our dry climate.  Check AC pipes have not been crushed near front right pickup point.

My car is a tipper and the motor was not removed, I think it is as @Fishcop says it is how Tech goes about his work.

Quotes source post: 337339

Hey @Jason E ,   Yes, for sure: As per @firstone & @st3ve , the expected items 'whilst out' were: Replace water pump; Oil vapour separator (AOS); NB. I noticed your quote for IMS solution is $2670. I checked the Invoice price of the IMS kit for you = $1450 + Gst and it was the 'Solution' as it mentions 'remove exhaust system and oil pump to fit oil feed in IMS' However, it seems there were quite a few other items done Oxygen sensor; Ignition coils; Tailshaft coupling; Engine mounts; Repair starter motor wiring (Chewed by rats 😝 ); Attend to oil leak on top of engine. Couple of these may well have been the reason for engine out 😳 Hope that may help.

Quotes source post: 337336

On AC cars you can't take the gearbox out without dropping the whole engine, trust me I made that mistake

Quotes source post: 337369

That's right.  But I also watched guys try and pull the engine on its own... Far too awkward!

There is an episode of Wheeler Dealers in the USA doing the IMS solution on  996 cab. Ed China went through the process of doing the whole job. Only the gearbox was removed but it was a manual. Look on YouTube for the episode and it will give a idea of what’s involved.

@Jason E While you’re at it… Underdrive pulley? No

Quotes source post: 337392

[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.]

Mine is a Tip and was done with the engine left in.

So, I got my car back Friday morning from the Brisbane Porsche Indie that did my post purchase maintenance work (brake refresh/ major service/ transmission service/ bump stops etc). I had asked him to give an estimate on the IMS (LN solution, oil fed - permanent fix) & I asked him about doing the job engine in or engine out. He said he prefers to do the job engine out as it is "quicker" (in his words) & you get a better sense of the condition of the engine & can see if any other "while you're in there" jobs are required. The verbal estimate was - factor $6000 for the IMS & the other peripheral jobs & you'll be on the mark. I got the impression that the job can be done with the engine in on both manual & Tip but that it is harder to access certain parts of the engine. I would suggest that it is preferable for the tech to do the job engine out for access just more expensive for the owner re labour.  Though possibly "quicker" as less mucking around getting to things.  Either way 6k is a lot of money to pull out a bearing that is "most likely" working perfectly. 😀 😬

Thats not bad mine cost $5750 5 years ago , And don't forget a genuine LN bearing solution kit is $ 1895 US, Good luck with what ever you decide 👍

Quotes source post: 337873

It’s the old insurance argument.... why should I pay it every year when I’ve never made a claim .. Then you need to make a claim and it’s the best thing in the world! ... As these cars get older and more k’s get added, the more the worry about the IMS. My car had it done in 2011 and has only done 20,000 odd k’s since then. According to the bearing people, it’s supposed to be done every 5 years. What a racket ..

Quotes source post: 337878

Agreed mate,  while the "5 year fix" is not quite half the price of the LN solution I think I'd rather do it once & get it right.

Quotes source post: 337878

Yet shops etc say it's a permanent solution to the IMS problem? Someone is telling porkies

Quotes source post: 337886

I think Lee, the 5 year fix is a new similar type bearing replaceable every 5 years & the LN oil fed solution is a "permanent" fix (as much as anything in these cars is permanent ).

I've spoken to a few about it, yet never heard any talk of the 5 year lifespan with any bearing replacement @Jason E Maybe buyers will now ask for evidence of when it was done, to factor in the cost of another replacement with the sale/buy price?   e:g "6 years ago? Ooh nah mate, I have to do the IMS again, so you'll have to drop your price by 6-8 grand..." 😉 😁

Quotes source post: 337888

With the LN guys (who invented the fix) they say 5 years or 75 K and suggest to change it when you do your clutch  plate.Thats for the retrofit bearing .

Quotes source post: 337897

Well there ya go...ya learn something every day. Maybe a 997 would be a better option 😁

Quotes source post: 337914

Yeah haha, I think the 997 the same problem till 2008-2009, And it can not be retrofitted, Hence the Ims solution fixed  for life.

Quotes source posts: 337888, 337897, 337916

That's good to know @tomo , thanks.  For some reason I got the impression that the LN was a permenant fix & the other (less expensive fixes) were a 3 year or so lifespan. I suppose with the 5yr/ 75k lifespan you're paying $1200 per years extra insurance.  I wish I had developed a love of Kia's instead of a thing for Porsches. I think from memory @dreamer was saying the 997s have a worse issue with needing the case split to access the IMS until you get to the post 2009 cars - correct? I'll quote directly from the mechanics estimate - (this is for the NON LN solution) - Estimated cost to remove engine assembly from vehicle, remove gearbox from engine & remove drive plate, secure cam shafts & remove IMSbearing.  Fit new IMS bearing & remove & replce rear main oil seal.  Fit new Cam plugs, remove & replace Engine Oil Seperator.  Refit gearbox to engine & refit assmbley to vehicle. Labor - $1680 Parts - $1369.70 IMS soultion is also available for this vehicle.  IMS solution parts would cost $2670 plus GST & take an additional of labour ($140). end of estimate/ quote...................................................... So I make it that the IMS LN solution should be approx $2937 parts $1820 labour for a total of $4757 approx.  I think the extra cost must be in the peripheral gear RMS/AOS etc taking it to the verbal quote of "around 6k". ahh, you got in before me.

Quotes source post: 337916

You are correct in saying this .. The 997.1 had issues with the IMS but to change it, the case has to be split. The IMS issue was all sorted in the 997.2. Admittedly, the issue is less prevalent in the 997.1, which is why it isn't widely talked about, or even known about. Or .. the 997 owners don't want buyers to know how expensive it is to change it for preventative purposes. The IMS is one of the reasons I didn't buy a 997.1 C4S. At least in the 996 it's only a gearbox drop ..

Quotes source post: 337916

Crikey, this is just making me wanna get an early WRX for $15k and forget about Porsches altogether! 🤔 😉

Quotes source post: 337921

I certainly keep looking back to the 3 years I owned my 2006 MX5 (with the retractable hardtop & paid nothing other than servicing) with fondness.  Lot's of fun, cheap as chips to buy & service, reliable as hell, zero issues, no IMS.............................hmmmmmmmm

Quotes source post: 337921

Or.Closed deck Rex eng, STI BOX in a backdated covin....

Quotes source post: 337926

Yeah thats for another thread 😁

When I got the 964 it would have to be the most critersized and melined car in the world,  But It did not miss a beat, Break, down, cause me any drama for my 14 years of ownership of regular thrashing , The 6.2 Has had 2800 ks of training so far, And loved every  k

Quotes source post: 337914

Guys, as I've said many times here, if you're fixated on the IMS, you're never going to enjoy the car.  In both our 987.1 S and 996.2 we followed the "be alert, not alarmed" principle - do regular oil changes, use good quality oil, check the filter for fragments each time, and change the IMS if you get fragments, or you're replacing a clutch, or have the engine out for any other reason.  We were aware of the potential issue when we bought the 987.1S, and decided we wouldn't be paranoid about it.  I never would have bought the 996.2 if I'd been fixated about it......... I reckon LN Engineering are on to a great, self promoted inbuilt obsolescence that keeps their profits ticking away.  There are other options beside  LN by the way......

Quotes source post: 337931

Yep, the Mechanic did say to change the oil every 5000ks, check the filter & be alert......or do the IMS. What are the other options?

Just curious... given the design of the 996 engine, is it possible to remove the filter without draining the oil? If so, changing/checking the filter at 2500km intervals (with oil change at 5K km intervals) might be a surer way of keeping an eye on things?

Quotes source post: 337932

Watch the engine grenade and put in a replacement one .. with a new IMS of course! 🤣

Quotes source post: 337932

Search IMS Guardian... https://www.callasrennsport.com/blog/ims-guardian-part--1 Basically aircraft technology designed to immediately detect metal chips in real time and set off an alarm.

Quotes source post: 337935

had a quick read - has anyone done this?  wonder what the cost is? (probably about 6k 😀 ).

Quotes source post: 337936

Had a read .. their site interesting though unable to find product info thougH to go back to your Q. watch wait act approach with oil changes etc including the link fishcop posted bearing replacement - various options all “non permanent “ oil fed bearing - permanent solution or as Dreamr suggests replace with a GT3 motor

Quotes source post: 337932

Here's one: https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/ims-bearing-upgrade-kit What I'm saying is, yes, probably figure in doing an IMS upgrade at some stage, but take precautions so you don't stop enjoying the car in the mean time...  And of course, if the signs of impending failure are there, certainly you would do the replacement.....

Quotes source post: 337934

You maka funee joka.

I have actually replaced (helped my brother... 😁 ) an IMS bearing on my brother's 996.1 (manual) which had traversed a tad over 180,000Km. He is an auto mechanic and has a two post hoist at home which made it easy. Being a manual, we just dropped the transaxle to access the IMS. We used the TuneRS DOF kit which is made up of the oil feed assembly and the correct SKF replacement bearing to suit. Procedure was fairly simple - we just took our time and it took us approx 3/4 of a day to retrofit the kit. he also replaced the clutch and flywheel while everything was out. A couple of pics.... His RMS was fine however his IMS cover/seal was weeping ever so slightly, (recall his 996.1 had 180,000Km on the clock. After cleaning; note we also ground away some of the crankcase to facilitate the new oil feed line. IMS flange/bearing end support plate removed. Using the correct tools for the job.... 😊 Peering into the IMS shaft... Bearing with seal removed - Note this is a double row bearing as fitted to the 3.4's. While engine had done over 180,000Km, bearing seemed fine once we took a much closer look at it after we cleaned it up. New IMS flange/cover fitted. Oil line was then connected to it to keep the new bearing happy. This was carried out way back in 2015. I actually had a RMS slightly weep on my 996.2 in Jan last year and I had this looked at by BUIK's here in Adelaide. Since I had also purchased an IMS kit at the same time my brother way back in 2014, I decided to  have this fitted while my transaxle was removed for the RMS task. I had BUIK's install mine (just a tad over $1.8K for labour) incl. full service and a few other odds and ends. My original bearing (single row unit) was also fine albeit my 996 had covered a lot less Km's as compared to others.

@Costas Your brother doesn't own a garage in the Mitcham area does he? John perhaps?

Quotes source post: 337948

Yes that's him...! As you may already be aware - He is into American Muscle - specifically Mopars.

Quotes source post: 337949

Aha! I shook hands on that car, then couldn't bring meself to sell mine, so a mate bought it. Great car that one, and John is a nice (understanding) bloke 👍

Quotes source post: 337950

He did a fair amount of mechanical work on that car which brought it up to scratch - The previous owners were not exactly car enthusiasts which explains the wear & tear on the paint/body and interior etc.

Quotes source post: 337951

Yeah cracking car for sure. John told me how much work he'd done which was pretty obvious. Just the wrong time for me unfortunately

This topic has obviously been run around the block more than a few times.  There is no doubt that the problem is real, but also that it is blown way out of proportion especially in the US based forums.  Take some time to research the counterpoint offered by Hartec in the UK which in most cases is to NOT change the bearing.  Read widely and make your own mind up.  I think the main point is to drive your 996 often and drive it as it was intended, change the oil and watch the filter.

I bought my 996.1 5 years ago, fitted a magnetic drain plug, spin on oil filter adaptor, replace the oil approx every 5000k, check the plug.and never worry about the IMS.

@Costas this car?

I personally would happily drive a 997.1 without ever worrying about IMS issues. It is a possibility, as it still has a sealed bearing but it is EXTREMELY rare for anyone to have an issue with them. The bulk of the issues are with single row bearings which were fitted to 996's from around mid 2000. I previously assumed that it was just 996.2's but I believe the issue came from the factory that supplied the original dual row bearing found in the early cars burned down and Porsche had to find a replacement quickly. Even the early cars have such a low rate of failure that they, along with the 997.1s were removed from the class action lawsuit filed in the US as failures were too infrequent. My factory dual row bearing I removed at 160k kms was still prefect. By 997 they knew they had an issue and fitted a larger single row bearing which is very good, and I believe better than the early dual rows. The whole thing really became an issue due to the inferior, post 2000, single row bearing. Outside of that I really think the risk is no higher than a myriad other random issues that any engine from any manufacturer can face. Not worth losing too much sleep over.

Quotes source post: 337974

Yes..!!! That's the car - I remember the rims that the previous owner had fitted.

Quotes source post: 337980

Problem is that the root cause is not the bearing itself. The reason Porsche moved from the double row to single row bearing was to accomodate the wider cam chain setup used for the 3.6L. Nothing to do with a factory fire at the supplier.... The so called sealed bearings do not seal in the OEM grease 100% and over time the grease dissolves and the bearing then relies on engine oil that has to make its way through the bearing's own seals to lube its race - not ideal. I noted this with the bearing that came out of my 996, whereby upon removing the bearing seals I noted no trace of the original bearing grease - just a light coating of engine oil was present on its internals. IMO a good option would be to simply remove the seals to allow the engine oil free access to the bearing's internals. This is recommended by some and a good easy fix for a 997.1.

Quotes source post: 338002

I stand to be corrected, but I understand this is the method used by some of the prominent independents, also for 996's......

Quotes source post: 338003

Of a sort various manufacturers touting the ultimate solution plain bearing fed with pressurised oil

Quotes source post: 337974

Good looking thing that was 👍

Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but looking at getting this done to my newly acquired 2001 996 manual. It only has 84k on it but a lot of the usual stuff (IMS, RMS, clutch, bump stops, brakes) is going to need doing shortly. The workshop that did the PPI for me is EMD Automotive http://www.emdporschespecialist.com.au Paul who owns and runs it use to be the lead tech and PC South Sydney and I vaguely remember him from the time that I use to get my 944S2 serviced there. He seems to be a bit of a perfectionist in speaking to him. Has anyone in the forums had any experience with them? He has recommended using the EPS Bearing: https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/ims-bearing-upgrade-kit He said that he has installed the LN Engineering ones both the solution and replacement bearings and feels that the EPS bearings fit better and are better quality and are also oil-fed. Before speaking to him, Id never heard of the EPS bearing, has anyone used these before? The quote for just the IMS upgrade: Job 1) IMS Bearing Replacement - Preliminary work for IMS Bearing replacement + Oil feed modification Parts included with IMS bearing replacement *Engine oil 8 Litres Porsche Mobil 1 0W40 *Oil Filter *Flywheel bolts X 8 *Pressure plate bolts X 6 *Power steering fluid 2 Litres *Coolant 6 Litres *Rear main seal replacement *A/C Re-gas *A/C pipe O rings *Diagnostic scan and adaption *Parts & labour – $4,950 I'm not 100% sold on EMD doing the work, so any other suggestions would be welcome. Pics of the new baby...

Nice buy @RobCarrera ! That looks fantastic. EPS is what I have in mine. Recommended by PR Tech and I was happy to trust their advice given their reputation.  Mine is not the oil fed type. Quote looks reasonable. Let us know how you get on with EMD, and enjoy the new ride.

So, as I am looking at a few Boxsters atm this is interesting to rear it's head again. My experience - DHM here in Brisbane said they pull the engine regardless of man/ auto to do the job as it is easier with the engine out.  Don alleges that it is time saved with the engine out over time saved doing it fitted to car.  Who knows.  They are happy/ experienced with the LN oil fed solution. I spoke with Ryan at Autowerks Wyong yesterday re IMS.  They don't like the LN oil fed solution.  They only recommend the 4 year ceramic bearing (wouldn't be my choice though). Both are between 4 & 6k here in Brisbane with peripheral jobs included.

Cool, thanks for the input guys!! This will be an engine/gearbox out as well. Again, was told much easier as well as being able to access everything else on the engine. These are now 20 years old, so many of the plastic parts they used on these are starting to need replacement. I'm going to be getting a a lot of 'while your in there' work done as well. Most of the plastic hoses, OAS expansion tank oil cooler etc will be replaced as well as engine mounts and gearbox mounts. I may go with the RSS semi solids. From what I hear they make a huge difference to the handling. Phase two will be suspension and brakes next year, but that's all for another thread I guess.

I know you have spoken to them, but I can highly recommend Autowerks ( https://autowerks.com.au/ ) on the Central Coast. I have been having them do work on my 996 for the last 6+ months and they are awesome!! Simon know his stuff and is so helpful.

I fitted the EPS bearing when i opened my 2006 Boxster engine (40klm)  to replace a spun big end bearing. The IMS bearing was in perfect condition but since the engine was open it was a no brainer to replace it. I carried out the oil feed upgrade which is an excellent idea and i would recommend it to be done to all 986, 987 and 996 of the vintage, its only requires removing the oil pump, punching a hole into the IMS shaft and replacing the square drive key with one that has a V ground into it, its a very simple modification, the passes from the high pressure side of the pump, down the centre of the hollow IMS shaft and then floods the bearing (very simple). As i could not find any reason whey the bearing spun I also decided to install the additional 8th bearing to help support the crankshaft incase it was the crankshaft vibration that took out the big end. EPS have some very detailed videos on how their upgrades operate. I investigated throughly what bearing to use and found that if you ask 5 shops    for suggestions you will get 5 different answers.  Ask them how many different types of kits they have used and the answer is usually 1.

Thanks, I'm feeling a bit more comfortable with the EPS bearing now, particularly after doing a bit more research. The issue is as soon as you start looking into 'IMS' all you get is LN Engineering, they've certainly done a great marketing job!! 911CSR, thanks for the Autowerks suggestion, Central coast maybe a little far for me right now, but thanks for the heads up! I'll feel a little less paranoid once this is done. I want to go have have a chat to Paul at EMD and get a reality check on the rest of the incidentals. I'm hoping that he can do the Gundo hack for me as a little sweetener, it'll make the bill a little easier to swallow if I get something more tangible at the end, because these 996s are really quiet, more than I was expecting!!

No problem. I have the non-LN Engineering IMS replacement in mine done by Autohaus Hamilton (previous owner) and I have had oil analysis done twice since I bought it and both times the filter and the analysis came back clean. Thats the other option, Autohaus Hamilton.

Autohaus was my first port of call to get the PPI done, but were booked out for over a week. I've spoken to Chris a few times regarding another car that I was looking at earlier, which they advised me to steer clear of. They are known for being one of the best (along with PRT) but also pretty expensive as well. It may be worth while getting them to quote on the job as a comparison though.

Hi Rob, I've recently had the same job, oil fed EPS performed by Paul at EMD and other 😲 items whilst we were in there. He's not looked after the car for my complete ownership but I tried him out after a recommendation from a friend who has a 996/4S and am happy with his service to date.He's been doing the big ticket items for me since 2019. As you mentioned he is very thorough. I think his past experience gives him an advantage over my day to day mechanic who is also very capable but does not have the same level of training on Porsche cars. I was adamant I was not going to get the IMS done as my car has been serviced regularly and used as intended by myself and the previous owner but as the last visit involved a clutch replacement it made sense to do it, especially as I don't want to deal with the IMS hysteria / bargaining if I ever sell. The bearing that came out was perfect btw. I also liked the fact that he has performed multiple EPS oil fed updates and that he's close to where I live if anything goes awry. In regard to noise have you tried the simple air box mod yet? If you have any question feel free to shoot me a PM. Cheers - Jim.

Thanks so much for that Jim45!! I think that's made my mind up, I think I'll stick with the 'Plan A' and get Paul to do the work. I've done the airbox mod with the oil cap in the resonator inlet, it made a tiny difference to induction noise above 4krpm. Is it better to replace the hose and add the cap over the top of the resonator?

Quotes source post: 363961

Here is a reason not to do that cap mod: If you want to do a mod replace your mufflers with sports ones for power, lightness and sound.

I’ve had the silicone intake hose / resonator delete / bypass with a BMC F1 panel filter on my 996.1 for six years and 27k. I love it. Never had any problems. I’ve combined it with a Cargraphic exhaust, and the difference they’ve made to the character of the car is huge.

Interesting comments on the for and against res delete. I haven't noticed any drop in performance since doing it and the sound difference is negligible. I've only used the old old cap in the resonator and left the rest stock. I'll keep an eye on it. New mufflers may be the go so I can keep the originals as they're in great conditions still. New mufflers are pretty XXy...about $3K, so it's a more considered mod compared to the Gundo/Fister mod. I've been looking at these: https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/milltek-rear-silencers-2-5-inch-ssxpo019-fits-porsche-911-996-carrera-carrera-s-ssxpo019?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuP-OBhDqARIsAD4XHpduo4TQMQNAgKQAsf_gaiC-ObX15YE7NQatM7rUOVywp2X5W44gskkaAiMXEALw_wcB A bit confusing though as the description says to fit 996, but then when I go to check whether it fits my car it says no. I know the Millteks are supposed to sound really nice. Edited 14January, 2022 by RobCarrera not finished.

Quotes source post: 363974

not 100% whether series 1 and 2 are compatible - so maybe that's why the 'no'?

That could be it! I thought that they were essentially the same.

Quotes source post: 363980

I think one of the members found that the carrera cans are different to the S .

Hi RobCarrera, Fantastic looking car and congrats. A couple of weeks ago - I bought my first Porsche - a Boxster 987.1 that is smack bang in the middle of the IMS of doom range. I'm not particularly concerned by it to be honest. I think the issue is quite a bit overblown, so I have adopted some others way of dealing with it, namely, "be alert but not alarmed". The car is only new to me, but seems to be in great condition. I plan to just ensure the oil filter is replaced inspected quite often and maybe deal with the IMS if we see any early signs or it somehow is bothering me and maybe get it done if additional work needs doing too. I also think the IMS "hysteria" is probably what's allowed me to buy in to Porsche so in a way, I'm a little thankful for it, just like for some people the "ugly fried egg" headlights have helped others too.

Thanks Sabotage. Congratulations to yourself as well, I can guaranty it won't be your last, they really get under your skin like no other car. I think it the model that you own often dictates the level of hysteria/paranoia. The more you dig into it the worse it can get. I bought the car I did purely based on it's condition. I knew that it needed all of the big dollar maintenance items in the next two/three years and it's the model that has the single-row IMS bearing the highest failure rates. It also had all of the things that often precede an IMS failure...low Ks, not driven regularly or hard enough. The previous owner basically just changed fluids a set of tyres and a water pump in the 12 years he owned it. However, I was able to negotiate a better price once I'd pointed out all of these things. The 987.1, if I'm not mistaken has the non-serviceable IMS that requires the crankcase to be opened up to be changed. These double-row bearings are pretty good and most Techs recommend not changing them. I think the fix is to remove the seal at the back of it so it gets better oiling from the engine. was told by the guys at PRT who had serviced a 987.1 Cayman S I looked at before buying the 996.

Quotes source post: 363986

Yeah - I think that's half the problem - the more you dig the more you find that can scare us. I don't think anyway is necessarily the wrong way, but we will all have to live with any consequences of our decisions. Good luck with your journey and please keep us all updated on how you go.

Quotes source post: 363962

Not sure tbh - think they all aim to achieve the same goal. Mine has the hose and cap like the clip I posted. And also Cargraphic mufflers which is probably 95% of the improved sound! I also removed quad tips from the car and replaced with after market dual ones and i think it sounds different again. I think i prefer how the quads sound but don't like how they look! From all the reading / you tube clips the Gundo / Fister mod looks like a great start for more sound. I thought about doing it to my Cargraphic mufflers! Was interesting to read about why "not" to do the air cap mod. I've also read that after market solid engine mounts cause knock sensor issue but didn't go too far down that rabbit hole.

Congrats - lovely looking car! FWIW I have a receipt from the previous owner for $4500 when he went with the oil-fed "solution" product. I'll offer a couple of observations - if you think the IMS thing has been done to death, don't go down the M96 bore-scoring rabbit hole You'll never get any sleep! The muffler outlets definitely differ between the Carrera and the C4S - it's because of the differing bumper designs.  The original exhaust is adjustable, but some aftermarket units are welded to Carrera and C4S/Turbo spec respectively. Lastly, another rabbit hole (and I don't want to start anything!) but Porsche's original Mobil 1 0w50 spec seems to have been superceded through 20 years of independent maintenance... Pretty much all the independents recommend a thicker 5w or even 10w oil to protect these engines long-term in hot weather.  Mobil 1 has 5w50 if you must have Mobil.  I'm running Castrol Edge 5w50 A40 Porsche spec.

So many rabbit holes!!!! I'm pretty sure the oil used in the service I got done was Castrol Edge, I'd have to double-check though. From what I understand the 3.4 M96 has very few instances of bore scoring. And then there's the chain tentioners....Oh, I think I need a beer now!! I love Lee Sibbs analogy...most people think that the M96 is made of chocolate!

I went through the exact same thing when I bought my 996.1 with about the same k’s as yours six years ago. You will eventually stop worrying and come to realize the 3.4’s are much more robust than you’ve been led to believe. The likelihood is that your car being a revvy 3,4 manual has been driven as designed from new and maintained appropriately with regular oil changes. If so, your original dual row IMS bearing when it comes out will more than likely feel like a new one, and your camshaft deviations will be within spec. The AOS is much more likely to need replacing if it hasn’t been already, tricky job but DIY-able and not an expensive part. Your RMS may be a bit misty/weepy, sure replace it if you’re in there but otherwise who cares? Your DMF might be out of spec..mine was, does the new one feel any different? Not really. Your coil packs might have a few cracks but likely not causing issues, few dabs of high temp silicone sorts that out. Your bump stops will likely be perished and your engine mounts a bit ‘compact’. Easy, cheap, fixes. Spend a lot, spend a little, likely the car will pretty much feel the same. Best preventative maintenance advice for a 996 is; change the oil regularly, drive it regularly, and drive it properly,. In other words the most important maintenance with a 996 is ENJOY IT!!

Edit: just realized yours is a 2001 so single row bearing. So ok maybe worry a little… let’s say 7% more.

Yep, I completely understand. I've gone into this with open eyes and prepared to do as little or much as it takes, as this car is going to need a new clutch in the next 5-10k kms I may as well get it all done at once. But the premise is to enjoy driving this thing as much as possible.

Not sure about the later Porsche model used car markets that don't have the potential IMS thing, but in the used Boxster market at least, the price difference for a 987.1 vs 987.2 seems to be about the same for a full engine replacement or at least rebuild if it ever happened. The later 981 used Boxster's are way too high, in my opinion. I know there were other improvements with the cars with the new engines, but if you want to experience a Porsche and are not concerned about future resale prices, the "IMS engine" Porsche's are almost laughably cheap due to people's panic over them. I look at it almost like investing. I think the worst case model failure rate is 10%. That means you have a 90% chance of Winning. If I knew before hand with my investments, that I had a 90% chance of winning, I'd be laughing! Irrational markets provide bargains for the brave!

On the IMS front, I pulled the bearings from both my '98 911 and '98 Boxster both with well over 100k kms and they were both perfect. Those are both of course double row bearings. As for 996 mufflers. I absolutely believe the gundo hack is by far the best exhaust mod for the 996. All of the aftermarket ones I have heard end up being too loud and drone on the highway and drive you mad. Gundo gives you a great sound when you are on it and still perfect and comfortable on the long trips. Also it is by far and away the cheapest way to get it sounding good. It is basically the exact thing that Porsche did on the 997 with the switchable sports exhaust.

Quotes source post: 364078

While Gundo exhaust modification is undoubtedly good for both noise and for your bank balance, it is not in my experience a universal truism that aftermarket exhausts drone on the highway. I have a Gemballa exhaust and a cold air intake (zero performance improvement but an addictive throaty induction roar!!) on my 996 and it is reasonably loud, albeit not obnoxious, when you rev it or even better when you run through a tunnel in a low gear with the windows down the noise is intoxicating. However on the highway with cruise control on, it rolls along with barely a murmur (I mean it's not Lexus quiet but its a sportscar) and the tyre noise is more noticeable then the exhaust, similarly I can leave my garage early in the morning without waking up the entire neighbourhood!! It is an entirely pleasant place to be for long distance driving, but when you arrive at your destination and some twisties appear and you decide to get up it, the docile noise quickly disappears and it fires up with a satisfying bark to assuage your adrenaline requirements. However, I cannot imagine a full Gemballa exhaust system was cheap and the Gundo hack is vastly better value!!  I know someone who bought a full Sharkwerks system for his car, and similarly while that system was very loud at high revs it was not unpleasant for long distance drives and did not drone or make your ears bleed on the highway . Respectfully a well designed sports exhaust system is also an entirely reasonable option from an aural perspective, if perhaps (definitely? ) not a financial one, and is not necessarily unpleasant to live with on a daily basis.  You do however need to select one that makes sounds you can live with in all situations, not simply one that sounds fantastic when driving fast, and unfortunately that is in my experience an expensive option.

My experience with a Cargraphic Sound exhaust is similar to Carrera28’s. It’s pleasant to drive on the freeway for long distances, doesn’t drone, will relatively quietly pootle along in traffic and doesn’t blow the neighbours windows out in the morning. However give it some beans over 4000rpm and row between 2nd and 3rd on your favourite road and combined with the intake the car is totally transformed. Like a lion and a cheetah are having an argument in the back seat. I open both windows and the sunroof for the full aural experience. It’s very addictive, and soooo much more enjoyably sonorous and characterful than the horrible, deafening farts of a lot of modern modded offerings. Bonus with a good aftermarket is you may find a nice little bump in hp. 10ps with the Cargraphic and apparently a few kg lighter too.

Quotes source post: 364000

Agree, congrats on the car. The outlets between a C4S and a narrow body Carrera definitely differ. I have the IPE full system (extractors, cats, cross over pipe, mufflers & tips) on mine with the variable sports exhaust and the original tips woudl not fit as they were for the narrow body. I have the original  C4S tips on it now and the quad tips aside for a rainy day. The resonator mod on the intake is an interesting one. Fitted the Samco hose and cap to the 996 airbox and a small difference, however I found a 997 airbox for a decent price and fitted that instead (as well as an 82mm throttle body). The rumour is they flow much better so a little more power (maybe) however I noticed more of a sound difference with it than the cap modification. Oil is always an interesting one. I ran 5W40 Liqui Moly originally and am now running 5W50 for summer on advice from a Porsche mechanic. seems OK but will know after next oil change.