Swapping engines - Page 9 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

My 986 suddenly started performing poorly — overheating, smoking, and a liquid that smelled like coolant was dripping out of the exhaust. I checked the oil and, sure enough, the dipstick was coated with a milky froth — oil and coolant mixed. I haven't done a compression test, but the symptoms pointed to a cracked cylinder or something equally unwanted. Accordingly, I bought a replacement engine on eBay, another 2.7L M96, with 39,901 miles on it. The engine I'm replacing has clocked over 155,000 miles. The replacement cost me $4200 including shipping from Florida. I bought the car for $5000, and I've spent a little over $800 on a new water pump, heater core, ignition switch, light switch, and like-new drivers seat. With the engine swap the outlay will come in around ten grand, not a bad price for a clean 986 with relatively low miles on its engine. I will be chronicling the swap in this thread. In the meantime have a look at my new engine.

this engine looks great, congratulations! PS: how old is the new water pump? If kind of new, I would swap it to the new engine, take pictures :-)

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I put it on early last year, and I doubt I've driven the car more than a couple thousand miles since then — too busy working on it — so swapping the water pump might be the way to go. At the very least, I'll keep it as a spare. I can probably scavenge quite a few nice parts from the old engine.

Holding that frothy dipstick, I decided right then and there to pay eBay a visit. The thought of dropping the engine and rebuilding it didn't enter my mind. For one thing, I don't have the special tools it would take. For another, it's an engine with 155,000 miles on it. I think I made the right decision.

I totally agree, too expensive to rebuild these engines or transmissions and hope it goes well. Hopefully, you’ll be back on the road soon. I think these cars are worth saving!

Congrats on scoring a nice engine. Before scrapping the old one, might be worth taking a few compression tests to pinpoint the problem. It might just be a problem with the oil cooler and the intermix was occurring there. And now is the best time to easily get to those 'while you're in there' parts. Believe me, having gone the rebuild route, I know it can be expensive to start throwing more $$$ at unbudgeted parts but you'll never have a better chance to get to them like now. Things like radiator hoses, engine mounts, clutch, plugs, coils, fuel injectors, etc.

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Sorry to hear about your problem, but I like your attitude and decision to make lemonade out of the lemons. I will be watching for updates. Good luck with the swap. It is a bit disturbing to hear that a 2000 2.7 engine gave up at 155,000 miles. I have about 149,000 miles on what is likely to be an identical engine.

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I hear you. I talked to another 986 owner with just over 300,000 on it, so I was counting on getting more miles out of mine.

To add insult to injury, I had recently changed the oil and coolant, and I'd replaced the fuel regeneration valve under the left manifold (without removing the manifold, an advantage to having smaller hands). Note that all the hoses, wires, and lines are intact on the new engine. In addition to the low miles, that sealed the deal for me. On some engines for sale on eBay they cut those things for expediency when they remove the engines from the cars. The seller struck me as a conscientious guy.

If you are interested I have a engine swap check list originally based on the Pelican instructions. I have added a lot of details, some just for me some are more general.

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You bet, Grant. Thank you very much. I also plan to read your engine-swap thread. YouTube has a number of videos I plan to watch as well.

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Yes, I'm curious to know what actually happened inside the engine. Whatever it is, with oil and coolant mixing I'm sure it's fatal — $4200 sure. New clutch and IMS bearing make sense. And new engine mounts as well. I hadn't figured on plugs, coils, or injectors, but I'll listen to a convincing argument why I should.

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Do the vacuum canister and all vacuum lines before the new engine goes in and check / change the small vacuum operated valves under the intake as well as the oil filler tube part with a flexible accordion section..

Consider keeping your AC system intact with your current compressor unless it was having issues. You can keep the compressor from the new engine as a spare.

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I have put the files into Dropbox, you should be able to retrieve them with these links https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ss2dbwsi1tlsvjvxaddik/Engine-Transmission-attach-and-verify-list.odt?rlkey=ms3vlhjb0ak51n1my6ebfpu9p&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/12j4u0qhvvhmvlv19zhfo/Engine-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=occnpqnq3dez5ic7mcvqy3awa&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4tazjtr9sj3ndlz3n8eo9/Transmission-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=xit5tht6b1kh5uji7bedze33p&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ptqvt6ya9b71i4xt06z1k/Notes-on-checklists.odt?rlkey=8zliunz2x4yolvung6isqqux7&dl=0 If there are any questions get back to me... good luck.

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I greatly appreciate that, Grant. I noticed you built your own dolly. I'm shopping for furniture dollies on Amazon. I'm looking for one with a low profile, since clearance is an issue, and of course enough capacity. Speaking of which, do you happen to know the approximate weight of the engine?

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Then I wouldn't have to recharge the system, right?

Correct. Most instructions for removing the engine will have you unbolt the compressor from the engine, then remove it as you lower the engine. AC hoses remain attached. Put the compressor into the new engine before it's fully raised in position. No need to recharge the system.

Wish I hadn't sold my cherry-picker hoist. I last used it to install a Chev 230 ci six in my cherry '64 Chevy van (which I should have hung onto), and then it took up space in my garage for years, untouched. Guess I'll just rent one. But this is a good lesson for me: Don't sell your tools. No telling when they might come in handy, like the cherry-picker hoist would for this project.

On these cars I've found that an engine support bar makes the job much easier. Here's a JFP post: http://986forum.com/forums/641804-post19.html Also, if you are careful with placement (NOT the middle of the sump plate) a heavy duty transmission jack works great for lowering and lifting in conjunction with the bar for stability. One last note from me... The car needs to be raised up high to have clearance to move the engine past the suspension brackets. I don't have a lift and typically will have the car at several different heights through the process and only have it highest when moving it past the suspension. The first time I did it I used cheap jack stands on blocks - Stupid and unsafe. Splurge on some good jack stands if you don't have a lift available.

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Fate must've wanted me to have an engine support bar. I bought this one at Amazon this afternoon after talking to a guy I call "The Grizzled Mechanic." Now you suggest the same thing. It's fate, I tell you. https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/ I've got some heavy-duty jack stands. Jack stands are the last thing I want to cheap out on. There seem to be a number of schemes to get the back end high enough to clear the suspension brackets. BTW, I don't see the necessity of removing the bumper cover, bumper, axles, drivelines, or even the transmission, as some have done. I prefer that those components remain where they are.

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I don't see how you can not remove the transmission. The transmission shaft goes into the clutch/flywheel so either the tranny has to be pulled back or the engine moved forward... which is impossible. If you move the transmission back you have effectively removed it. Not the same as a front engine car where you can remove the radiator and slide the engine off the transmission shaft. The rest of the stuff you can leave in place.

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I defer to your greater experience in swapping 986 engines, Grant. I had assumed there would be room to slide the engine forward off the transmission shaft, like I've done with conventional engines. A boneheaded assumption (and not by any means my very first one).

Gotta admit, the thought of having a clean, low-miles engine in my 986 brings a grin to my face. It justifies the restoration I plan to do on the car. Someone commented in this thread that 986s are "worth saving." I second that. I think the series 1 986s will one day be regarded with the reverence we now accord the first series 911s, with a value to match. As much as possible, I want to ensure mine makes it to classic status. The numbers won't match, so it won't be "correct," but that might not matter to someone who can appreciate its exceptional beauty.

While celebrating the 25th anniversary of my car's production data (aka it's birthday) I calculated that it's $48,000 cost in 1999 would be over $92,000 in today's dollars. It sounds like your total investment in your car including the replacement engine is about $10,000. While you are banging your knuckles and possibly saying "bad words" tell yourself that your sweat equity is worth $82,000. I changed the spark plugs and spark plug tubes in my car yesterday. Since I had the rear wheels off, I decided to bleed the brakes. I will be finishing that task today. I hope that I never have to replace an engine, but I will be watching and learning.

The new engine will be here Wednesday. it weighs 570 lbs,, according to the seller, and it was shipped sturdily covered and strapped to a pallet. Good thing the diamond plate-steel engine dolly I bought from Amazon is rated at 1000 lbs. Even so, It's gonna be a bear to wrestle around. (I'm sure master-swapper Grant will attest to that.) Fortunately, I have a couple of strong lads I can press into service. I wanted to have the new engine in hand before I started unhooking the old one. I'm the slowest mechanic on the planet, so the swap is likely to be a lengthy process. If it becomes a winter project I might have to fire up my Mr. Heater 75 - 125,000 BTU torpedo heater. (Yes, the area I'll be working in is well ventilated.)

IMHO, if you disconnect the drive shafts from the tranny, and unbolt the gearbox mounts (to lower the complete assembly), it would be way easier than trying to install the engine with the tranny still attached into the car. Good luck, and looking forward to your pictures! :-)

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Sounds logical. Anyone else care to chime in on this question?

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Yes dropping the whole unit is the way to go. It ensures that you can properly torque all of the bolts in the bell housing. You can leave the slave cylinder attached to the line in the car.

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Dropping it as an assembly is both easier and much faster.

I spent the entire day yesterday with my nose pressed against the window, waiting. But 6 pm came and went with no engine forthcoming. What kind of cruel hoax was this? A quick check of tracking revealed that the delivery date had been changed to the 19th. No stranger to disappointment, I merely shrugged. But if TForce Freight lets me down again, there's gonna be big trouble.

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Thanks, JFP. The more I work on my 986, the more I'm realizing that my experience working on conventional engines is often not applicable to Porsches. It's humbling. Luckily, more experienced folks are around to set me straight.

Finally! And it's a heavy mother, I kid you not.

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Awesome! Now start spraying PB Blaster on all of the exhaust hardware, to help loosing any rusted nuts and bolts.. It is going to be a fun project, if you were closer I would volunteer to help you out at my house (have all the tools), but risking getting jinxed by my wife, as any time I start a project and I tell her it will be two hours, turns out to be 8 hours.. , but it will be a fun project none the less..

I love tools the way most girls love jewelry. To me they're equally lovely. Have a look at the torque wrench in the bottom drawer. It's a thing of beauty! This is but a fraction of my tool set. Since I bought the 986 my selection of exotic tools (tamper-proof triple-spline bits, for example) seems to have grown exponentially. But I'm not complaining.

The good news on the triple spline tool front is that if you own a fairly (like in the last 20 years) recent VW, you already own most of the ones you’ll need!

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Gilles, I'd take you up in a hot minute on that offer to help. I have a feeling wrestling this 570 lb. motor will be a challenge. I do have a beefy engine dolly and a sturdy bar for hoisting it, but I would love to also have a low-profile transmission jack, which might come in handy for this project. That's good advice about PB Blaster. I've always used WD-40, but I've heard good things about PB Blaster.

Try some Kroil, puts PB and WD 40 to shame......................

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Hey, thanks, JFP, I'll do that. It would probably be wise to replace the IMS bearing (and clutch plate) before I stick it in. Do you have a recommendation as to which IMS to get?

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Good luck with the PB blaster or Kroil (or 50% auto transmission fluid with 50% acetone) but have your dremil (or equivalent) ready. Its nice if the exhaust manifold bolts come out without breaking, but I have had to drill out a few and install helicoils. For the rest of the system be ready to cut the bolts if they won't come loose... and replace them with stainless steel bolts and brass nuts for reassembly. I install SS studs for the exhaust manifolds with the brass nuts.

If Kroil fails, consider a magnetic induction nut/bolt heater. I don't know what kind of dark magic this thing employs, but it works. Recently I pulled all the bolts out of a 1980s Fiero exhaust system. Soaking in penetrant did nothing. Less than a minute with this thing had them glowing orange and they all came out with the threads intact.

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I am partial to the IMS Solution because it is a once and done deal, never needing to be replaced again. I've installed a lot of them, never had any issues over a lot of miles.............

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Wish you were here, because the IMS Solution's installation instructions made my hair stand on end. For example, by drilling and sawing, "cut a notch in the crank case for the pressurized oil line that feeds the IMS Solution." Yikes!

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It really isn't all that bad; you need to set the Solution flange loosely in place, mark the line fitting location with a marker on the bellhousing flange, then using a couple of increasing drill sizes, drill out where the fitting will sit, then use a metal saw to saw into the final hole you drilled out. A little bit of filing to break all the sharp edges from the drill and cutting and presto, a perfect slot for the flange's fittling to drop into, the slot being a little large is fine. Only takes a few min. to do.

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JFP, I ran across this alternative by European Parts Solution that EPS says "will last the lifetime of the engine": https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/ims-bearing-upgrade-kit Also available at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Intermediate-Permanent-Retrofit-Pressurized/dp/B00H8XH9ZQ Like LN's IMS Solution, it's supposedly a permanent fix. According to EPS: "The bearing is completely submerged in oil thus not requiring the Pressurized Oil Feed Mod." A slotted shaft in the oil pump provides constant oil feed to the bearing. At $679 it costs significantly less than the IMS Solution. What's your take?

I believe that EPS is a Miami based company and have a sister company that sells M97 rebuilt engines, and also offer their service to rebuilt your engine. One time on a business trip, I had a morning to kill so I stopped by their shop, and saw the way they they were assembling (several) M97 engines on various stages of completion, and left with a very disappointed impression, as the building across the street (literally) was under construction, creating a lot of dust and guess what, the engine shop was assembling M97 engines on top of open tables on the patio (outside..), remember running a finger on a crank journal feeling the dirt on the oily surface.. I believe that the same people also designed a tool to remove the non-serviceable IMS bearing on the 987 engines (by drilling the case with a circular saw) without disassembling the engine.. I am not biased, but had the opportunity to attend the Flat6Innovations M97 engine assembly class and the first thing you notice is their cleanliness and organization that they implemented on their process, yes, it was that impressive.

You know I love tools, but coughing up $250+ for an IMS bearing extraction and replacement tool makes me wince. As much as those bearings cost, you'd think it would include the extractor. There oughta be a law!

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LN Engineering does have a rental program for the tools.

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I have never been a fan of IMS roller bearings. Contrary to what they advertise, they are not stronger than the ball bearing design, and by far one of the biggest problems in bearing failures is heat buildup, and roller bearings get much hotter than ball bearings. I also cringe at how they want to get oil to the bearings............

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I followed Ben Burners example and built my own... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJ5WwbgQejs&list=PLiya6G1pHhIYyzhlVzS_LwoIovrlv6_lv&index=18 and my experience is here https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/81929-my-ims-bearing-replacement-thread.html

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Grant, I admire the way you improvise things. Respect.

I also made my own puller and cam lock tools.

I know the Solution is expensive you can get them on sale at times for around 15-1600.00, But honestly with a nice low mileage engine the fact that it will never be a issue is great piece of mind, I know it's hard to spend that kind of money when your in deep enough as it is,.But even a" New " bearing can go bad, But with the Solution you will never need to worry about it no matter the mileage you drive, Good Luck,..!! Frank

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There's a $200 off sale on their eBay store right now. If it doesn't show for you, make the offer and they'll likely accept.

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I sent you a PM

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The Solution's exorbitant cost, on top of what I shelled out for the engine, has me doing some serious ratiocination.

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I doubt they would consider an offer of $679. That's about as much as I can talk myself into spending for an IMS bearing. Before I started checking prices I had assumed an IMS bearing replacement would be in $400 - $500 territory — more than the $200 - $300 it's actually worth, because it's for a Porsche. Talk about naive!

lol...yes indeed..I understand completely,..I think they would sell a lot more if they lowered the price Iam sure they have recouped the investment by now...but Patent's are expensive I guess, But you can always install one in the future,..maybe do a dual row for now.. Frank

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Didn't Raby do a roller bearing which was supposed to address the perceived faults of the other common roller bearing IMS? Its write-up of it's advertised benefits might give insight into the possible shortcomings of other offerings. https://lnengineering.com/products/the-definitive-guide-and-faq-for-porsche-ims-bearings/cylindrical-roller-bearing-ims-retrofit-kits.html

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That makes sense. What's your verdict on Pedro's "technoFIX DOF" implementation of direct oil feed for the bearing? https://pedrosgarage.com/site-2/technofix-dof.html One end of the technoFIX's oil feed line connects to the IMS flange like LN's, but its not clear what the other end connects to — an oil filter adapter like LN's or something else? The technoFIX DOF is less than half the cost of LN's IMS Solution, and I don't mind telling you, I like that about it.

Similar; the DOF system, contrary to the advertising, draws some of the hottest and dirtiest oil from the cylinder head to feed the bearing. This oil feed has also caused problems with the Vario Cam system on some cars that immediately went away when that oil line was disconncted and plugged. The reason they went this route is because the oiling system of the IMS Solution is covered in a patent. Injecting pressurized oil into the factory bearing also tends to flood the entire IMS shaft, which is problematic at best. The IMS Solution system uses a plug in the shaft behind the Solution to prevent this, and this plug is also covered under one or more of the various patents Jake got on the system. As for the costs, "you gets what you pays for" in these systems. the Solution is the only one that is well thought out, extremely well designed, and totally permanent. The Solution is also the only iMS retrofit that can be removed from one engine and installed into another without any concern. I have them in both of my personal cars.

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Mike, I didn't know LN offered a roller bearing kit, and after reading from your link I came across a stunning admission/contradiction: "Unlike other commercially available cylindrical roller bearing IMS kits, the RND RS Roller does not require any oil system modifications, so there is no risk of ... oiling efficiency due to pressure losses." Doesn't the "IMS Solution" require an oil system modification? Things that make you go "hmm."

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Yes, it does, in the form of a spin on oil filter adaptor that controls the amount of oil going to actual Solution bearing. Having run these retrofits for years, I can clearly attest that there is no observable oiling pressure or efficiency problems with the Solution, it simply works as designed; most of the other retrofit "oiling systems" just tap into an existing oil passage and let the oil flow at whatever rate is there rather than trying to control how much is used.

And then there is replacing the original with the same bearing (123bearings.com (NSK BD20-17-A-DDUA17NX01-NSK) $57.79 US plus shipping), but with the outer oil seal removed during installation. The original bearing was in good shape after about 145,000KM (90,000mi) despite having grease that had the consistency of cheese and little oil for lubrication. I can't see why this bearing cannot last a lot longer than the original.

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That would certainly be an economical way to go, Grant, and I'm all for economy. It's your contention that removing the outer oil seal will allow circulating oil to lubricate the bearing? Being from the sump, the oil would be unfiltered. You don't see that as a problem?

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Better than no oil, but I cannot agree with the bearing choice.

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Where to get the original style locking wire to keep the NSK bearing in place?

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In posts 7 to 10 of this post there is a discussion on this and other aspects of the IMSB replacement https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/81929-my-ims-bearing-replacement-thread.html Is there another, better bearing that is "plug and play"? That is the advantage of the NSK.

I have a problem, particularly with single row engines, of replacing a bearing with a pretty well defined failure rate with brand new copy same thing; statisitically, you are still in the same probablity of failure, so I don't see what you accomplished. Anytime we replace a know failure point component in these cars, we always try to replace it with something that is better. In the case of the IMS bearings, the once and done forever Solution is the optimal item. If budget constaints preclude the Solution, I would go with one of the LN hybrid bearings long before I would put another factory bearing in the engine. More than once, I have told a prospective customer to take their car somewhere else when they insisted on using the Pelcian kit, roller bearings, or some internet identified factory replacements; we simply have absolutely no confidence in any ot these units, and I will never put my shop's name on a questionable repair. I recently got into a dialog about trying to find cheap aftermarket main cats for one of these cars, which is pretty much a total crapshoot. I told the poster we only use the factory replacement cats because they are legal in all 50 states, and will always pass both sniffer emissions testing and visual inspections. When the poster complained that the factory cats cost $2K each, I pointed out that one of my customers wacked one of his cats on his Italian super car going over a speed bump, requiring a factory replacement that set him back $14,000, and that if he wanted to drive a cheap to repair car, sell the Porsche and buy something else, these cars are not cheap to buy, much less repair properly.

LN Engineering: "The Porsche M96/M97 engine is wet sump (not dry sump). This means the intermediate shaft is submerged in oil, allowing the Porsche IMS bearing to be bathed in and lubricated by the oil in your engine's sump. No forced oiling or direct oil feed is required to lubricate any ball or roller IMS bearing when an open bearing without grease seals is used. " https://lnengineering.com/products/the-definitive-guide-and-faq-for-porsche-ims-bearings.html?limit=all (Fact 9) LN thereby seems to corroborate Grant's contention that just removing the seals ensures adequate lubrication. And yet, LN beats the drum for the Solution, touting its pressurized direct oil feed. Isn't that unnecessary according to their own statement?

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JFP, I should have mentioned that the bearing I replaced was a double row... all of my expieriece is with MY 2000 engines with double row bearings... except the replacement engine in my 2000 S which has a single row bearing that was replaced with a LN bearing. I totally agree, I would not replace a single row with the same bearing that came from the factory. LoneWolfGal, JFP makes the following point in the thread I linked to in previous post... "5) The oil level only normally reaches the bearing level when the engine is not running; people fail to realize how far down the sump level drops with the engine running, particularly if it is running hard. Porsche put oil scavenging pumps in the cylinder heads for a reason: To get the excess oil trapped in the heads back down to the sump to keep the sump oil pump pickup covered. We actually tested this idea many years ago during an engine dyno test by drilling the case on a track car engine and installing barbed fittings with a clear hose in between them so we could see the oil level at various RPM levels. The oil level drops almost immediately after the engine starts and drops way more when the RPM levels go up. Even under modest engine speeds, the oil level is below the IMS bearing, so removing the rear seal allows oil mist in, not liquid oil." Later on in the same thread he says... "We remove the rear seals on the oversized non-serviceable IMS bearings any time we have reason to be in there, or when customer's request it; been doing it for years without any issues. "

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Logical. Surely LN would be aware of that, but in the statement I quoted it didn't seem to be a concern. Another $400 for the rear main seal. I will of course inspect my new engine's rear seal for evidence it leaked, but I have to assume on an engine with 39K the seal's just fine.

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I don't understand why you say $400 for the RMS, the seal is between $22 and $35 (Porsche) on the Pelican site and it is a relatively easy install with the flywheel off. Not sure what I would do in your situation... if it is the original seal I would worry that is old enough to be somewhat hardened. If I remember right the seal has been modified to improve its functioning.

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To answer your question, Jake Raby actually ran an IMS Solution for a prolonged period with the oil feed line disconnected during the system development and testing; Jake noted that the IMS Solution survived this without issue on just the oil mist inside the engine. But knowing that Jake is a decided "belt and suspenders" type engineer, he kept the oil feed line, which delivers a slow, controlled amount of oil, because he knew that a lot of the Solutions would end up in track cars where heat build up in the bearing is more severe. He also wanted this product to be a "life of the engine" answer to the original bearing's short comings. Having had the opportunity to see IMS Solutions after hours of track time on dedicated tract rat cars, I think he did the right thing; these Solutions looked like they just came out of the box.

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D'OH! European Parts Solution's price is $449 for the rear main seal and housing, which I ass-u-me-d would be in the ballpark. Should have checked other suppliers' prices, but the IMS was dominating my attention. I definitely would have before reaching for my debit card. Since the seal's so inexpensive I'd be crazy not to replace it while the engine is out of the car. https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/rear-main-seal

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JFP, I don't doubt that you are absolutely correct about the Solution. I always listen carefully to the Big Dog. Which is not to say that Jake Raby isn't price gouging. As I said to another forum member, if he'd priced the IMS Solution at $999 it would probably sell like hotcakes, and I would undoubtedly convince myself to buy it. But pricing it at almost two grand — that's out of line, if you ask me. That said, your point that a Porsche is an expensive car to own is well taken. I guess it could be worse, though. I could be working on a Bugatti Veyron.

A little interlude while I agonize over the IMS decision... Back in the olden days when I was just a kid, we lived in Reno and I owned a vintage Honda motorcycle, a twin, which I'd bought for $150. As it happened, our house was only a couple blocks from Bill Rudd Motors, a speed shop and Honda motorcycle dealership. I decided to rebuild the Honda's engine, so I bought all the parts from Bill. He and his mechanics, greatly amused by this girl would-be motorcycle mechanic, indulged me. I spent the entire winter rebuilding that DOHC engine, and when I was finished I pushed the bike over to Bill's so they could help me if it wouldn't start. The whole crew gathered around and I pressed the starter button... and it fired right up and idled smoothly. Bill and his guys all applauded. What I didn't know then and only found out years later was that Bill Rudd had been a famous Ferrari Team Racing mechanic, worshipped in racing circles. But he was such a humble, unpretentious guy, he never talked about it. At least, not when I was hanging out there, and I used to hang out a lot with Bill and the guys. Anyway, folks, although I couldn't appreciate it at the time, I rubbed shoulders with racing royalty!

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Jake doesn't make or sell parts, but he does own the patent(s) rights to the Solution; the actual product is made by LN Engineering, Jake just takes a cut off the top on every sale, which is his right as he spent all the design and testing to destruction time of the various iterations of the Solution before settling on the final design and then patenting it. As for the price, you get a lot of beautifully engineered stuff in the kit, all of proven to work; and what no one seems to take into account is that it will never need replacing, unlike every other IMS retrofits, including the LN units. So it is once and done as long as the engine lives. And even then it could be transferred to another engine. We have a customer that got a single row Solution at around 60K miles; the car is now approaching 200K miles and it is still in there doing its thing. The only thing we ever replaced on it was the braided SS hose that carries the oil from the filter housing to the Solution after a tire kicked up something the smacked it pretty hard, and even then, it wasn't leaking, just ugly; so we replaced the line as preventative maintenance.

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Interesting. In that case, if all references to Jake are replaced with LN Engineering, I stand by what I said about price gouging. After all, we're not discussing an interocitor here, just a relatively common bearing with a direct oil feed. Doggone it, JFP, you're making this decision really tough! If cost were no object I would just fork over the $1900, because the 39K M96 deserves the very best. But alas, cost is an object. And then there's the uncomfortable feeling that cost-wise I'd be getting fleeced by LN, which certainly factors in. The second point falls under "general principles." But it sure would be nice to never have to worry about the IMS again... Doggone it, JFP!

I'm giving Pedro's technoFix DOF another look. From Pedro's site, describing his product: " [O]ur oil supply to the DOF uses oil which has passed through the filter and then through the cooler, before it goes onto the IMS bearing . ... This oil feed is supplied by the factory, so there is no drilling or tapping on the engine, simply screwing on a (supplied) adapter." https://pedrosgarage.com/site-4/dof-info.html If it's true that cool, filtered oil lubricates the bearing then Pedro's technoFIX is equivalent to LN's Solution for less than half the cost. The price for the technoFIX is $800, which doesn't include the bearing, $50 for single row or $100 for double. (At this point I don't know which one my new engine has. I'll need a bearing extractor and the doohickeys to lock the cams and remove the timing chain tensioners before I can find out.) I emailed Pedro and asked for a better description and/or photo of the aforementioned screw-on adapter for the oil feed. The other end of the oil line is connected to the flange, like LN's Solution.

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It is your car and your money, but both statements are wrong, the oil feed for the DOF comes from the cylinder head, one of the hottest and dirtiest sources of oil in the engine, the Solution takes it from the oil filter area, which is just after the oil cooler and after the oil has just been filtered. It isn't even remotely close to what the Solution is

Quotes source post: 663320

First time I ever heard of this product. I have read that on some engines the RMS leak is a problem but I have only replaced the seal as preventive maintenance. The old seals were not really leaking only seeping a little.

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I agree, the cylinder head would be about the worst source of oil, definitely a dealbreaker. But I wonder where "screwing on a (supplied) adapter" comes into the picture? That could describe LN's Solution's method. Curious to know what Pedro has to say about this matter? I am, so I'll ask him. And hey — good looking out.

Quotes source post: 663352

If you look at the photo I sent above, the fitting on the left with the Oring seal on it is the one that screws into the cylinder head port. No one can use the spin on filter adaptor used in the Solution, like many other features, it is patented.

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I'm very curious to see how Pedro will justify those statements. I won't hold my breath. I've emailed him three times in the past two days with questions about the technoFIX and he has yet to respond. Maybe he only wants customers who don't ask questions.

also a faulty oil/coolant heat exchanger also could create the similar symptoms, easier to fix than a head with a crack as you mentioned overheating.. :-(.

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The old engine will be going to a guy in Roseburg. I'll relay that to him.

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LoneWolfGal, I sent you a PM

Those of you who have hoisted an M96, where on the engine did you attach the hoist's chains via metal straps bolted to these attachment points?

Quotes source post: 663430

I use heavy duty nylon rachat straps that I put around the crankshaft pulley in the front and around the transmission in the rear, if the transmission is still attached, or the engine stand adaptor if it is being installed on the engine stand.

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Same style like elgyqc on previous message, but I routed the heavy duty (2000kg) ratchet strap apround both cyliner blocks being veeeeery careful not to allow the strap to compress anything besides the cylinder blocks. Connected both ends of the strap at the center above the cranckcase. Worked real well and engine stayed level during the lift to engine stand. Same on oppsite direction as the engine built was ready.

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I've bolted hoists' chains to the blocks of a couple of conventional engines and it worked great, very secure. I've seen photos of M96 engines suspended that way on eBay. I should have paid closer attention to where they were attached. BTW, I bought one of these.

Well, dang it. I can't find an engine on eBay that's suspended via chains with steel straps bolted somewhere on the engine. The way it had been done looked pretty slick. On a straight six and a V8, I bolted the hoist's chains to the exhaust manifolds' bolt holes (with the manifolds removed). The M96 is a way different bird, so in the interest of expediency I might have to use the nylon strap method like you guys did. I have a couple beefy straps with ratchets that should easily do the job.

It looks like TuneRS also sells the Pedro DOF. They say it is something they developed. Maybe Pedro is also affiliated with them. Idk Anyway, they show the exact same picture for their kit. But they have some install videos that might answer some of your questions. I too would like to install the solution, but it’s half the cost of a replacement engine 😳

Quotes source post: 663443

That's exactly what I said. As an insurance buy, it's a horrible ROI. It's not like these engines would be otherwise bulletproof, anyway. If it's not the IMS, it's d-chunks or something else. When I had my transmission out for service, I decided to just put in a new bearing and call it a day, like Burner ended up doing. But it turns out the engine in mine was replaced with an M97 so I couldn't even do that.

Quotes source post: 663433

Two questions: 1. You didn't use the hoist point by the throttle body? 2. Did you find an engine stand adapter for the M96, and if so, for under $700?

Ah... this is what I was talking about. I'll probably give it a try.

LoneWolfGal, I have a cherry picker, and also the lift table that you already have and would like to share what worked out for me with the car on jack stands. Since you will have a limited clearance between the floor and the chassis, if you put the engine/gearbox on the table lift, unfortunately it will not clear the frame.. and this process worked out for me. Once the car is on four jack stands (high and level) then you can 'slide' the engine/gearbox from the back using a furniture dolly, or two large card boxes in top of each other so one would slide on top of the other one After you get the powertrain underneath the car, you can lift it with the cherry picker so you can put the lift table underneath the engine, then you remove the engine, but to have more clearance I built a simple home made lift using Home Depot parts (less than $20..) and this thing would allow you to hang the engine/gearbox from the top and by turning the nut you can fine tune it (up-down) so you can easily bolt the gearbox and engine mounts. The cherry picker is only used to raise the engine/gearbox after they are under the car and also to move the assembly around the garage

Thanks for the info, Gilles. Much appreciated. I also picked up an engine support bar (see below), so I should be all set. (The support bar will supposedly "Make repair and clean easier." I'm still trying to decipher that, but I'm all for easy cleanup.) Kinda wish I had a second engine dolly, but I can make do with one, since I have the cherry picker to move the engines around the garage, as you pointed out. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&path=https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/

my engine support bar was a lot cheaper.. LOL Regarding the furniture dolly, these cost between $10-$20 at Harbor freight, perhaps Walmart as well

Well, I'll be a monkey's aunt! I found what I've been looking for right here: https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/58273-engine-lift-hook.html [Note to self: Search 986forum first .] I plan use the described lift hook point in conjunction with another attachment point, one of the motor mount's bolt holes at the front of the engine, the same way the eBay engine was suspended. The lift hook attachment point alone is not intended to support the entire 570 lbs.

Quotes source post: 663473

Hey, thanks again. As for your improvised support bar, you know the old saying — "Necessity plays with the Mothers of Invention." The thing about the stuff we fabricate, the price is right. I believe I will pay Harbor Freight a visit tomorrow. One of their $20 furniture (soon to be engine) dollies will probably do the job almost as well as my overpriced ($92) diamond plate, heavy-duty (2000 lb capacity) dolly. If I ever need to move a stack of four M96s, though, the diamond plate dolly will get the nod.

Quotes source post: 663452

1. My friend Newart hung the whole engine by that little bracket near the throttle body, for a short period of time... but I only have used it as a backup to some other means. With another attachment point on the front of the engine, so it is only carrying half the weight, maybe... but it would make me nervous. 2. I use a standard adjustable adapter which works fine unless you want to split the crankcase halves, in that case you need the $pecial adapter. I was even able to change the IMS bearing with the standard adapter. When I split the crankcase on my broken 3.2 engine I did it on a pallet on the floor.

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I like to live dangerously! On a serious note, the provided lift hook point seems fairly sturdy. Folks have apparently been using it, together with an attachment point in front, without a problem. But if I'm wrong and the engine crushes my head like a grape, I'll get back to you.

Quotes source post: 663492

The reason I ask is that I'm starting a rebuild and when I took it down, at the point of spltting the cases and getting the IMS out, it got very awkward with a standard adapter. So I'm looking at options besides spending nearly a thousand dollars for the specific one. Of course, JFP in Philly says it can be done with a regular engine stand.

Quotes source post: 663503

Why don't you assembly the engine halves on a table, then mount the assembly to the stand and then proceed with the heads and accessories?

I've decided maybe I don't need no dang direct oil feed for my M96's IMS bearing. I'm leaning toward LN Engineering's ceramic double row IMS Retrofit. The price of $999 is a far cry from economical, but it's less painful than $1899. Not that I wouldn't choose the Solution if cost were no object, but after laying out $4200 for that new engine...

I'm waiting for Sunset Porsche Parts ("GENUINE FACTORY PARTS") to tell me the price of the OEM ceramic IMS bearing, since I can't seem to find it elsewhere. I could be wrong, but I'm guessing it will come in under $999, even though it's a genuine factory part. In the meantime... Talked to a guy who turned out to be a hardcore Porsche purist. He also drives a 2000 silver/black 986. Mine has a few non-OEM parts, while his was OEM all the way. Every nut, bolt, and screw on his car was OEM, he told me, including the steel-bearing IMS. "Correct," he called it. He recently replaced the heater core, cost him almost $600 for the OEM core. I've read about that kind of thing. It's a type of OCD mania. Glad I don't have it. I bought my heater core from Amazon for $115. It looked "correct" to me. Seems like a harmless compulsion, though, so more power to him.

Corvette purists are the same even to the point of having the correct markings on all bolts throughout the entire car.. Had a '58 for over 30 years and built it to drive it. To each his own. John

As if my hands weren't full with getting things ready for the impending engine swap, Suzi Isuzu, my much-loved '98 4WD SUV, which I bought new and has only 49,000 miles on it, needed attention, starter-wise. Specifically, her solenoid plunger, which engages the starter, was making erratic connection with a set of copper contacts. It's a $16 kit. However, as claustrophobically tight spaces go, getting to the solenoid to replace it is as challenging as it gets. It makes the 986's ignition switch (which I replaced earlier this year) seem comparatively accessible. At any rate, that's why swap-related updates have fallen off of late.

Sunset Porsche Parts finally got back to me with a price for their "OEM" IMS ceramic-hybrid bearing..Turns out Sunset is actually Porsche Beaverton, and their IMS bearings are actually LN Engineering's products. However, Sunset charges $2271.42 for LN's ceramic bearing, compared to $999 directly from LN — literally highway robbery! I didn't ask how much they're charging for LN's Solution, but it's a safe bet it would make a strong person shudder and possibly faint.

You sure that isn't an installed price?

Quotes source post: 663725

That's what I asked them, but they're slow to respond. However, I tried to make it clear that the bearing was intended for the new engine before I put it in the car. That would explain the high price, though. Would your shop install the bearing for that kind of money?

Quotes source post: 663727

Depending upon the vehicle (Tip vs manual), and what else needs to done at the same time, but it is in the right ballpark.

Quotes source post: 663727

Luke at Sunset Parts is a gentleman and a very supportive person, however it seems that they are a bit over helmed and that could be the reason of their slow response. ..

Quotes source post: 663725

Sunset Porsche Parts' texted reply: that is just a parts price. You will need to ask service for an installation cost -- Luke Rogers I doubt their 225-percent markup from LN's price is Luke's doing. Wonder how much they're charging for a Solution? I think I'll ask Luke. I heard slapping the forehead improves circulation.

Luke from Sunset texted me with an answer this morning: The IMS Solution parts kit is $4412.82 and we will need to order it in for you. That's more than I paid for the engine itself.

Now for we (or some of us) who live in the real world... https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/double-row/bd20-17-a-ddua17nx01-nsk#container-tech-schema

Quotes source post: 663771

This Luke probably wants to make sure and install two of these into your engine. The rest must be the price for ordering. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/LN1060860.htm?pn=LN-106-08-60&bc=c&SVSVSI=

Quotes source post: 663771

I'm curious... and correct me if I'm wrong... but... Are you considering putting in the OEM bearing... and isn't that the part (OEM) that is subject to failure? As an aside... is Sunset ripping people off? The unsuspecting ones?

Quotes source post: 663783

No, I'm not, and yes, it is. I'm probably going to cough up $999 for LN's ceramic-hybrid bearing, which is supposed to be a significant improvement over the OEM steel bearing, although LN has a $100 coupon available to purchasers of their Retrofit bearings, so I can get it for $899. You be the judge. LN's price for their IMS Solution: $1899. Sunset Porsche Parts' price for LN's IMS Solution: $4412.82

Again, when I contacted Sunset, the response came from Porsche Beaverton. However, I've since learned that Sunset is based in Florida, so I'm confused about the relationship. It was my understanding that Porsche offers its own ceramic-hybrid bearing after I read this at LN's site: "Porsche chose to release their own IMS bearing replacement kit using a sealed 6204 ceramic hybrid ball bearing, with 52100 steel races and sintered silicon nitride balls. This came a full decade after LN Engineering publicly released its first IMS Retrofit kit, using the same ceramic hybrid ball bearing technology Porsche eventually chose to utilize with their own bearing replacement." Sunset is reputed to sell OEM parts, so that's why I contacted then about the alleged OEM ceramic-hybrid bearing. Perhaps JFP can shed some light.

Quotes source post: 663780

Grant, I understand you installed one of these after removing its seals, correct?

Quotes source post: 663790

First of all, you are confusing Sunset Porsche (Beaverton OR) with Suncoast Porsche (Sarasota FL), which are two entirely different businesses. Originally, Porsche only offered a replacement all steel IMS bearing and shaft assembly that replicated what the car left the factory with, and which was frightfully expensive and no better than what you had to begin with and required complete disassembly of the engine to replace it. When that didn't sell, and some of the dealers started screaming, or simply ignoring PCNA edict that you cannot change the bearing only and some went as far as using the LN products and procedures without the factory's permission, Porsche parts went to the ceramic hybrid bearing that LN was having made to their specifications, resulting in the Porsche NA parts system having to pay a fee to obtain the bearing, which was added to the usual nosebleed markup you find in their parts system. So much like the plethora of VW and Audi parts that are interchangeable and way cheaper than those that come in the Porsche box, Porsche started offering what they saw as the best alternative to the factory parts, but at ridiculous prices. So, after belittling and denying the R&D development of a former helicopter mechanic working out of a converted chicken coop in the woods of GA, and a very creative machinist with a small machine shop in IL, the almighty elves in the Black Forest came to realize that they both had the optimum IMS bearing fix procedures and parts, now making the elves customers of these two guys. Pure automotive karma............

This might be a naive question, but I have yet to come across an answer: Since double-row bearings are much more reliable than their single-row counterparts, can a single-row bearing and spacer be replaced with a double-row bearing?

Quotes source post: 663793

No, not with the factory width dual row as the two IMS shafts were different and required different size bearings. LN does have a dual row hybrid replacement for the factory single row which uses offset ball placements to keep the overall size the same as the single row so it will fit the shaft correctly. This LN product does require some specialized tooling for the installation however.

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D'OH! Well, at least I got the "Sun" part right. Thanks for the clarification about the bearings.

Quotes source post: 663794

Double D'OH!

Quotes source post: 663797

The tool required for this bearing is called the Faultless Installation Tool, which in reality is simply the best installation tooling for any type of IMS retrofit; but because of the unique design of the dual row LN replacement for the factory single row, it is the ONLY tool that will correctly install it without doing any damage. I literally got rid of my original IMS installation tooling after the Faultless came out, it is simply that good a tool and we use it on everything. LN rents them.

https://youtu.be/f3DPE3epPtQ

Quotes source post: 663798

JFP, these are great news for the people that would be using the installation tool only once, because the tool looks pricey.. PS: Can't wait to see the pictures that LoneWolfGal will post of her complete and successful journey :-) .

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They are not cheap, the basic tool is nearly $800, but like Porsche's beautiful RMS tooling, this was designed for the professional market and why LN rents them; the average DIYer would never buy one.

Quotes source post: 663789

Go to Ebay and make them the $1700 offer for the Solution. If you are willing to lay out $900 for just a bearing bite the bullet and get a permanent solution. Remember the $900 bearing is a 60K mile part and then calls for replacement. You stated earlier this is a keeper car..... Cry once.

Quotes source post: 663791

Yes. One only removes the outer (rear) seal. This resolves one of the problems with the original bearing... the seal leaking enough to wash the grease out of the bearing but not enough to allow oil back in. Fuller explanations are available elsewhere.

Quotes source post: 663806

You assume that with the solution these engines are bulletproof. They're not. Like many other engines, they can become a heap of useless metal from several causes, including connecting rod bolt failure, cylinders cracking and D-chunking. Even at $1700, the "solution" still costs about half of what you would pay for a replacement engine. And if she wants LN to honor their warranty, she'll have to have it installed by a "professional" which makes the total cost even higher.

You and me both, Gilles. By the way, I just bought a new 1/2" impact wrench, which will be just the ticket for the motor mounts. It's a SPiCiMOMO, the finest name in Chinese impact wrenches owned by me. For $79 the SPiCiMOMO is a spicy mofo.

Quotes source post: 663780

This is a great replacement for the factory dual row, because it's essentially the same, and IMHO is a better design than the hybrid replacements. But it won't work for the IMS that's designed for the single row bearing because simply there's no room for that. So, most of the 2.7 and 3.2 5-chain Boxsters are out. And, you can't swap the IMS either because the chain sprocket is different.

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So it's the outer part of the bearing that's exposed to oil and not the inner part? That's counterintuitive to me, but I have yet to remove the bearing from the new engine.

Quotes source post: 663816

In fact, both sides are exposed, but the inner meets used/trapped oil within the shaft, while the outer side gets relatively fresh oil from the sump. In that sense it's better to remove the outer seal. On the other hand, if you remove both seals (obviously this can only be done if you extract the bearing and install a new one) the oil can go freely through the bearing and won't get trapped in there.

Quotes source post: 663814

Another that is a challenge on this othervise a very good bearing is, that I have not yet seen anyplace you could order the lockign ring belonging to the bearing groove ( pr snapring) to keep the bearing in place - or have I just missed it? The info I got is that the snapring should not be re-used.

Quotes source post: 663802

Grant says: "Shoot, I bet I can make one of those."

Quotes source post: 663823

There was no damage on it when I pulled it out so I didn't see any risk of just re-using it.

Quotes source post: 663835

I did the same thing.

Man, am I sick of lying down when I work under cars! After years of that, as soon as I can manage it I'm going to buy myself a 2-post 10,000 lb-capacity hydraulic lift. For around two grand (as low as $1500 on sale) it would pay for itself in convenience and time savings. And I deserve it. For the swap, though, I'll be roughing it again on my creeper. https://www.amazon.com/Motool-Technology-ME-H1000-Super-Quality/dp/B0C83QF39L/

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Just be aware that ALL post lifts have a minimum thickness and load rating for the concrete they are mounte to………

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I was just talking to a guy about that. He said he got around it by bolting the bottoms of the posts to 2' x 2' plates of 1/2" thick steel that are securely bolted to the concrete. Seems like it might work. What do you think?

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Me thinks those little steel plates could be three feet thick, and I wouldn't be comforted. I'm also reminded of the old, "... only as strong as the weakest link", and that link is the concrete.

Quotes source post: 663877

I think you need to find out the requirements for the concrete, bolting on large plates does not negate the mechanical leverage the lift has on the fasteners that hold it in place, and guessing wrong can lead to a major disaster as lifts do a lot of damage when they come loose and topple over. No cheap out band-aides here, the thing can kill you……

Quotes source post: 663886

I plan to build a new shop in a 20' x 30' steel building, so when the slab is poured I'll make sure it's more than adequate to support the lift. I will pass your and Starter986's warnings on to the steel plate guy and ruin his day. He was so proud of his solution, too.

Quotes source post: 663887

Your friend's problem is that he is thinking in terms of the lift legs pressing down, which while important is not the potentially fatal flaw, which is one of the legs pulling out of the floor and the lift toppling to one side. If you are seriously planning a new shop, think in terms of a minimum of 6-8 inches of rebar reinforced concrete, and decide upon what lift beforehand and have the concrete team cast the floor with purpose made steel threaded receivers in the floor when it is poured in the pattern matched to your lift bases. And do not cheap out on the lift itself; I have seen the arms on "bargain" two post lifts fail way below their rated lift max. I have always been a fan of Bend Pak, and owned several, but there are other very well-made lifts out there. And, as I recently told a customer that was complaining about the price of appropriately rated racing helmets, "If you have a $10 head, look for a $10 helmet; but if your head is worth more to you, act accordingly......"

Quotes source post: 663890

Sound advice, as usual. Great idea about casting threaded receivers in the concrete. I just hung up after talking to Steel Plate Guy. As expected, he was not receptive to any suggestion that his base plates can fail. In fact, he got huffy when I brought it up. But then, women don't have much credibility with him, even though I've forgotten more about engines than he'll ever know.

There is a rating for different strength's of concrete when they are poured, Talk to your concrete guy about your plan for a lift, they should recommend a 24 x 24 " pad or larger, that will be thicker, say 1' deeper than the rest of the floor that will ensure a strong base to bolt to Also consider a 4 post lift they are considered safer. Frank

Quotes source post: 663923

They're also considered much more expensive. I know guys with both. The 2-post lifts are more affordable and acceptably safe, provided they're securely mounted. The guy who'll do the pour retired after 30 years of concrete work, but he likes to keep his hand in and supplement his retirement income. He'll make sure an adequate thickness of rebar-reinforced concrete is under the lift and threaded receivers for it are cast in the concrete. I appreciate your astute suggestions. One thing at a time. The swap has priority.

When I installed my two-post, I had to cut out a section of the floor on each side as it was only about 2' thick. I then dug down about two feet and we put in rebar and filled with what I believe is termed "six-bag" concrete. It will be there when the Sun swallows the Earth! I've moved from there (and miss my lift nearly every day) and considering another. I hope I don't need to repeat the whole process. Cutting concrete is messy!

Quotes source post: 663946

I observed a 2-poster in action last night. I'm convinced they're the most economical (well, relatively) solution. -30-

Hello,.Have you considered a scissor lift, They have some that you can set into the floor,And they have different lift height's,..Just a thought incase you didnt consider that..! Have fun planning your shop ! Frank

Quotes source post: 663971

I appreciate the suggestion, Frank. Although they're useful, I don't believe a scissor lift can raise a car as high as a post lift. I want to be able to stand under there.

Those scissor lifts don't look like they allow enough room to drop a Boxster engine, either.

Quotes source post: 663980

Most do, and you can also drop it while the car is on a drive on four post lift as well.

Quotes source post: 663981

But since I don't have a lift yet I'll have to make do with four stout jack stands. With 3"-thick concrete pavers under them, I can get a full 24" of height. Claustrophobia sets in when the car's much lower than that, and besides, the creeper takes up 3". Without a lift, I'll be roughing it — just like the pioneers did with their Porsches!

Quotes source post: 663982

Agree on the creeper, I personally like the feel of old fashion thick card box for laying down on the floor underneath the car.. We live inside a gated community, and every time I see a truck delivering a new appliance, I walk over and ask them for the fridge or washing machine card box, and I use them until they are dirty enough to put them on the trash can to be recycled, sometimes I have three or four new boxes waiting their turn to be used

Getting ready to attach a chain to the new engine so it can be lifted. One end will be attached to the hoist hook point provided at the rear of the engine and the other will be bolted to a motor mount hole in front. If some kind person can tell me the size of the motor mount bolts, since I seem to have misplaced the dang service manual, I will be grateful to that individual.

Quotes source post: 663992

Try this website: https://www.eurospares.com/ I only had a few minutes to search, and this seems to be the correct diagram: https://www.eurospares.com/Porsche/Boxster_986/Boxster_986_(2000)/PartDiagrams/109-000/ENGINE_LIFTING_TACKLE Good luck.

Quotes source post: 664001

Thanks, Kevin. Says it's an M10 hex but doesn't say whether it's coarse thread or fine. Coarse would be my guess, but I could be wrong. I've been wrong a time or two, I admit it.

Quotes source post: 664003

Coarse is a safe bet. That said, buy a couple of each - they’re cheap.

Quotes source post: 663982

I’ll suggest that you not use pavers under your jackstands. They are not structural and failure will likely be catastrophic. Wood (two stacked 2x10s would get you that 3” you are looking for) is a much more robust solution.

Quotes source post: 664005

Thanks for chiming in, Tom. New concrete 12" x 12" x 3" pavers set on level concrete are unlikely to fail. I tried to break one in half to fit a space and gave up when the sledge hammer merely chipped it. And 2x10s alone wouldn't work, due to the jack stands' large footprint. Which is not to say a solid platform couldn't be constructed with them.

Quotes source post: 664015

I sell 24"x24"x2" pavers all day long. Please... share with me where you're getting these 3" thick pavers. Even then... I wouldn't be crawling under a car with 2" pavers. I wouldn"t be crawling, or relying on a car to be supported, with 3" pavers. What... no wood up there in Oregon? I'm following your build... and don't want to be reading in some Oregon rag about some gal found crushed under her car.

Are you smarter than Google AI?

Quotes source post: 664015

I strongly suggest you don't use concrete. Concrete may be strong, but it's very brittle. While your jack stands may SEEM to have a large footprint, the actual total contact point is very small, much less than a square inch.(Unless your jack stands actually have feet, which would make it safer, but I'd still caution against it.) Flip one of those jacks over and you'll see that the contact points with the floor are just the edges. Those edges under the weight of the car are like a cold chisel hit by a hammer. Chances are that hey will split the pavers just like a chisel. If you tried that sledge you had mentioned with a cold chisel you'd see what I mean. The sledge hammer alone has a wider contact point than all 4 stands combined, so the impact was spread over a wider area. Use wood. If a 2X10 is too small, cut four 20" pieces of 2X10, lay two side-by-side, then two more on top oriented 90 degrees the other way, and screw them all together. You'll have a 20X20X3 base for the jack stands that won't split on you.

As it turns out, the paver question is moot. A friend offered to lend me four platforms he built out of unfinished 2x8s — two layers at 90 degrees to each other, fastened with screws. He said they're roughly 16" x 16" and 4" inches thick, so I'm gaining another inch. That said, I'm touched by so many folks' concern for my wellbeing. I do appreciate it.

Quotes source post: 664027

Glad to hear!! Unless they're TRUE 2X8s, the total height of the platform would be about 3" - 3.5" That's because 2-bys are only 1.5 to 1.75 inches. Still, better than concrete pavers!

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I haven't seen them yet, but he said they were unfinished 2x8s, thicker than finished ones.

I have four sturdy jack stands like this one. They extend to 19.5". I prefer these to the ratchet type, which I've seen fail. I've never seen this type of jack stand fail.

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By any chance do you know the rating on these jack stands? They look pretty hefty

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8000 lb. capacity https://www.amazon.com/BESTOOL-Stands-Locking-Support-Capacity/dp/B09KN15PB8

Quotes source post: 664099

4 Tons has plenty of safety margin and something that I would never exceed (with the kind of vehicles that I usually work on) .. Thank you for the link!

See message to follow.

I had planned to follow a couple others' example and suspend the engine via a 3-ft chain with one end attached to the provided hoist hook point in back of the engine and the other end bolted to a motor mount bolt hole in front. However, I don't see why the chain couldn't be bolted to another point [see photo], which would have the advantage of making it possible to mount the engine while it's still suspended from a hoist or engine support bar, since the motor mount bolt holes wouldn't be unimpeded. Looks to me like it would be a solid chain attachment point. Do I hear any warnings, cautions, or admonitions against it? If not, it shall be utilized as a attachment point. Sine die.

Someone else can comment on that bolt, but I always have the engine mount bolted to the engine. If I need to attach to it, I run a nylon strap (scrap seat belt) around the frame of the mount and chain onto that.

Quotes source post: 664168

I think I'll follow your lead and bolt the engine-mounting bracket to the engine before installing it. Thanks for the idea. In any case, there's a good chance I'll end up at least replacing the motor mount's bushing, since rubber deteriorates over time. While I'm at it, I might as well also replace the manual transmission's mounts, for the same reason. I want my 986 to be as vibration-free as possible. I once rode in one that almost vibrated the fillings out of my teeth. 7 pm addition: After reading about the travails of pressing a new rubber bushing into an existing engine mount, I think I'll just save time and grief by buying a whole new mount with bushing already installed, seeing as how they're fairly reasonably priced.

These guys have a great reputation for rebuilt engines. https://www.amsporsche.com/ Looking at a 3.4 fully rebuilt. $13,300 shipped to the US

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When price is no object... Nevertheless, it'll be pretty great to have a zero-time engine behind you, so more power to you. Literally.

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Yup. Been there, done that. Except I had to learn the hard way…

Still haven't made a decision about which IMS bearing to install in the new engine, but I noted that LN's prices for their ceramic-bearing Retrofits have been reduced from $999 to $799. And apparently they supply new flanges with the bearings. Anyone know why this is? I had assumed the existing flange would be usable. At any rate, LN's pricing is headed in the right direction.

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Currently at $495 for either single or double row on their sale page https://lnengineering.com/sale.html EDIT (can’t delete) - not the same items you are look8ng at.

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LN has always replaced the flange because they use a larger and stronger center bolt than the factory did. And LN always has a sale around Thanksgiving every year.

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Priceless. 😂 A little late to the party on this thread, but this JFP gem made my week.

Well, JFP is a treasure! Now if he could work his magic on my Cayenne Turbo...

Had a chance to ride shotgun to Safeway and back in a 718, a 2021* model. No denying it, it was a lovely machine. As well it should be, considering it had an $90K+ price tag in '21. The interior made my humble 986 look positively spartan. One thing I noticed right off the bat was the exhaust note. There's something about the sound of the 986's naturally aspirated flat six. It's music to the ears. The 718's turbo-charged four sounded refined and almost polite. And truth be told, I really don't think the stylings of the later-model Boxsters were an improvement over Grant Larson's exterior design for the 986. The 718's jutting, angular front-end treatment and trick taillights are wrong notes in a symphony. I did not share these opinions with the guy who owned the 718. Back to the question of which IMS bearing will replace the one in the new engine. After thoroughly exploring alternatives, I've made a decision, and here's how it came about. First, I considered a stock bearing with steel balls, either an OEM bearing or one such as this from 123Bearing ( https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/double-row/bd20-17-a-ddua17nx01-nsk#container-tech-schema ). In either case, I would have removed the outer seal so that oil from the sump could lubricate it, and hoped for the best. The price is certainly right, especially 123Bearing's. But I kept coming back to LN Engineering's hybrid-ceramic IMS Retrofit. Here's what LN has to say about their product: "The IMS Retrofit uses an open bearing (no grease seal), [to] allow engine oil to freely enter and exit the bearing. The ceramic hybrid bearing used in all IMS Retrofit kits require minimal oiling, far exceeded by oil in the engine’s 'integrated dry sump .'" [Emphasis mine] LN also stated: " Forced oiling of a ball or roller IMS bearing does not provide any benefit as the bearing does not require or benefit from additional oil. Lubrication alone is not the problem." [Emphasis mine] LN sold me on the Retrofit, although in so doing they eliminated from my consideration their expensive, forced-oiling IMS Solution. (That, and the fact that they priced it out of my reach. Even the Retrofit is pushing the boundary of my financial reach. In fact, it will have to wait until after Christmas.) Anyway, the hand wringing is at an end. I choose the Retrofit. Only one thing can make me reconsider: an email reply from 123Bearing that says, "We have decided your suggestion that we offer a reasonably priced ceramic-hybrid IMS bearing for the Porsche 986 has merit. We agree the product will sell like hotcakes, and therefore we are putting it into production without delay." *EDIT: I apparently misunderstood when 718 Guy told me the year of his car. He meant the 718 line was introduced in 2016, but his was a 2021.

LoneWolfGal, I think you misunderstand the Solution. It is a plain bearing as those on your crankshaft, so it certainly needs an oil feed! Any other replacement is still on the clock, and will need to be replaced periodically. I think LN even says this in the description. The "Solution" is supposed to be a permanent fix, which is obviously cheaper if you keep the car for a long time. I have purchased one, but my plan is to use the ball bearing version on the one I'm rebuilding now, and using the Solution for the next one which gets the Nickies treatment.

Quotes source post: 664823

After researching them in depth, I believe I understand the options, including the Solution. If cost were no object, I would choose the Solution, based on respect for JFP's full-throated endorsement and for Jake Raby's technical prowess. But Raby also designed the ceramic-hybrid Retrofit, my second choice. At the very least, did you not find the excerpts I quoted from LN Engineering's website cause for thoughtful reflection? One would assume LN knows what they're talking about, don't you agree? -30-

That is exactly the point. They say the replacement is only good for a specific interval. From LN: Roller bearings, like ball bearings, will have service intervals, requiring future replacement, even if manufacturers claim otherwise. The only IMS replacement that is permanent and does not require future servicing is the IMS Solution which is based on the oil pressure fed plain bearing design used by Porsche for the Mezger engine's intermediate shaft. And: It is best practice to replace the IMS bearing as part of regular preventative maintenance. Depending on what bearing technology is used, service intervals can vary greatly, with the IMS Solution's oil fed plain IMS bearing is considered the best solution to prevent IMS bearing failures. Personally, I prefer one and done. I'm deep enough in this engine that I do not wish to be doing this work again on a regular basis.

Quotes source post: 664844

LN guarantees the "solution" for 5 years, and that's only if you have it installed by one of their certified shops. You can find replacement engines for less than what that would cost. There are DIYers who will have no problem with replacing the bearing while they replace the clutch. You say you put nickies and you have a lot invested in your engine so the solution is the perfect choice for you. But that doesn't mean it's the perfect choice for everybody. I think LoneWolfGal did her research, she fully understands the options, and made the best choice for her. I will look forward to reading her updates on the project.

Quotes source post: 664844

The dueling excerpts. At the very least, LN's website contains contradictory information. A person who does her own wrenching is in a different position than folks who have it done for them. PIper6909 made a telling point about LN's requirement that the Solution be installed by a certified Porsche shop to qualify for their limited, five-year warranty. That would cost probably three to four grand, parts and labor. An individual's financial means factors heavily into the equation. I shelled out $4200 (including shipping), for a low-miles engine. Am I going to blow almost another two grand on the Solution when I can't install it myself without voiding the warranty?! Not bloody likely! I've heard nothing but good things about ceramic-hybrid bearings. Even Porsche guru JFP, whose credibility is beyond reproach, has gone on record in this forum with his approval of LN's Retrofit. That's good enough for me. -30-

I've been studying a series of videos featuring Jake Raby, particularly one in which he demonstrates how to replace the IMS bearing and rear main seal. Raby is a fount of knowledge when it comes to Porsche engines, much of it esoteric. He mentioned in passing other parts that were candidates for replacement while the engine was out of the car: oil pressure sending unit oil pressure sensor (same as previous?) fuel pressure regulator rollers for belt hose clamps release bearing air-oil separator (AOS) crankshaft position sensor positive crankcase ventilation conduits grounding strap VarioCam ramps timing chain cam chain guide ramps slave cylinder on transmission exhaust clamps His recommendations were for the 99,000-mile demo engine in the video. Given that my new engine has only 39,000 miles on it, I wasn't planning to replace many parts beyond the IMS bearing and probably the rear main seal. However, replacing some of the parts in Raby's list makes sense to me. I would greatly appreciate additional advice about this, with my engine's relatively low miles in mind.

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What year and size is your new engine?

Quotes source post: 664897

It's a 2.7L M96 out of a 2000 986, not sure what series — M96.1, M96.2, etc.

Quotes source post: 664899

OK, it is a five-chain engine; I would replace the IMS, RMS, AoS, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, flywheel (if it is in poor condition), and definitely the chain wear pads between the cams. WIth the engine on a stand, all of these are simple replacements, in the car some are not so much easy to get at. I would also pull the oil pump cassette, look at the pump gears for signs of wear, and replace the pump drive shaft which is investment cast garbage and replace it with LN's chrome moly steel replacement. I would also consider replacing the PCV valve and line to the AoS while they are accessible, and also the oil level gauge sender for the same reason. A new water pump (factory only), low temp thermostat, and upgrade the engine to the "S" oil cooler, one of the cheapest longevity items you can put on a base engine.

Quotes source post: 664903

Many thanks, JFP. I'm on it.

JFP, I wasn't surprised to see cam chain wear pads on your list. I had just watched Jake Raby explain why replacing them is necessary, and he showed exactly how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocntYwozZBY I hadn't counted on having to do something quite so invasive to this new engine. However, excessive camshaft deviation due to worn wear pads is mega-undesirable, and the new, improved material they're using in modern wear pads sounds like the answer. The procedure requires special tools, to hold the cams in place, etc. Where do you suggest I obtain them?

Baum Tools and LN both sell them; you can also often find used kits on flea bay. With the cam covers off, it is also a good time for new plug tubes and orings.

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LoneWolfGal, I have the cam locking tool set, I will send it to you if you pay the return shipping after using it, it is a pretty small box (not heavy) :-)

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Glad I checked the forum tonight! Gilles, I gratefully accept your kind offer. I will send you a private message tomorrow to nail down the logistics. Another member has also offered to loan me his IMS extraction kit. I can't find the words to express how much I appreciate such generosity. Getting the new engine updated and ready for the swap will be due in large part to your and his benevolence. Many thanks!

Looks like I'll be doing a lot of preventative wrenching on the new engine before I put it in the car. It's now dangling from my cherry-picker hoist, and I can't work on it there (because I'm not nuts). I want the engine to be elevated, accessible, and secure. Naturally, I considered buying an engine stand, which could provide all those qualities. I've used them and they're great. But I've decided a $212 half-ton hydraulic lift table would be a more versatile solution. Besides providing a platform for working on the engine, it might come in handy when dropping the old engine and raising the new one into place. The clincher: It has a Premium Integrated Hydraulic Pump! Top that.

Quotes source post: 665053

Sounds like a solid choice. An engine stand has its advantages, like being able to flip the engine over, but one big disadvantage: no access to the back of the motor (RMS, IMSB, etc.). But if you find a cheap one on Cragslist, they are still nice to have, especially if you think you'll doing other cars. If not, you could always resell it for the same amount you paid, if you get it at the right price. I've seen them sell for $10-$100. At those prices, why not have both? I think it's well-worth it.

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Yes, I'd like to also have an engine stand for this project, but I'm pinching pennies so that I can buy all the parts I'll need to make the new engine run as smoothly and be as trouble free as possible. I haven't totaled up the expenditure yet, but I have a feeling it will make my hair stand on end.

The lift table is great, but a little awkward due to the handle. I had to detach it to clear the rear structure while setting the engine.

Quotes source post: 665074

I watched a video in which the handle had to be detached due to the length of the engine and transmission. Not a big deal. The table is 30" long and 19" wide, so there's some overhang for sure. -30-

Waiting for my 1100 lb. hydraulic lift table to arrive. Until then, the engine is dangling from the engine crane. I'm putting the time to good use, studying videos about replacing the IMS bearing, cam chain wear pads, etc. A kind and generous forum member loaned me his official LN Engineering bearing extractor kit, which arrived Friday, so I'm all set in that dept. The machining of the kit's components is impressive and reflects well on LN. I won't be able to buy the IMS bearing itself until next month due to budgetary constraints. I guess buying that Carrera GT will also have to wait.

The first order of business after I get the engine on the lift table will be to extract the IMS bearing, since I need to ascertain whether it's single or dual row before I can buy the replacement bearing. Chances are it's dual row, but I want to be sure. And my recent post announcing my decision to buy LN's ceramic-hybrid Retrofit notwithstanding, a change to my finances in a positive direction is shaking up my conviction about that decision, as are Jake Raby's videos about the IMS Solution. A bushing instead of a ball or roller bearing just makes so much sense.

You may be able to determine the type of bearing by looking at the cover to the bearing shaft. Look at picture #13 on this Pelican Parts discussion: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm I appreciate that it may be difficult to take a good photo until you have the engine on the table. If you can take a photo, someone with more expertise than me may be able to tell you which bearing you have before you remove it. Good luck with your work.

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Yup............. You can easily ascertain which bearing it is by looking at the cover flange and comparing it to the photos on LN's website

Thanks, JFP. After weeks of kicking, screaming, and rationalizing why I shouldn't, I'm going to heed your advice and order a Solution. I can't deny it; it's technically superior in all respects. Yes, it costs an arm and a leg, but it adds more than twice the cost to the value of the car. On carsandbids.com, Boxsters and 996s with the Solution are selling for five grand more than those without. That realization helped tip the scale. Thank you for your patience during the aforementioned kicking, screaming, and rationalizing phase.

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So... are you building this gem to enjoy... or sell?

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Both. I plan to drive the bejeezus out of it, secure in the knowledge I'll never have to fret about the IMS bearing, and eventually I'll sell it for top dollar to make room for a 959, Carrera GT, or 918. You see, I'm always realistic. Next question?

The IMS Solution does have limited warranty for 5-years... regardless that it is told to be a lifetime soluton for the Porsche engine: This is from IMS Solution website re: warranty: "MS Solution LLC warrants that parts purchased from an authorized IMS Solution dealer or distributor, that were installed by a qualified installer and that were installed in compliance with, and precisely following, all guidelines and procedures, to include registration, set forth in the product installation guide, are free from defects in materials and workmanship for five (5) years/unlimited miles from the date of part installation for the single or dual row IMS Solution (106-08.20 & 106-08.40). The Single Row Pro IMS Retrofit is covered for two (2) years/24,000 miles from the date of part installation."

Quotes source post: 665312

And to my knowledge, and what I have seen or heard from both LN and Jake Raby, none has ever failed in service. If fact, a some engines equipped with the Solution have suffered other types of failures (rod bolt failure, spun bearings, broken crank, dropped valve, etc.) and the Solution was removed from the failed engine, cleaned up, and installed in the replacement engine; something you cannot do with any other style of IMS retrofits. Yes, they are more expensive, but "speed costs money; how fast do you want to go?"

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May your dreams become a reality

Quotes source post: 665313

Boom. There are numerous events that can grenade an engine besides an IMSB failure. While The Solution may be a solid unit, the cost of the unit plus the cost to have it installed, because otherwise the warranty would be voided, is equal to or more than the cost of a replacement engine. And the engine could still blow up from other things, as you mentioned. If "speed costs money" and someone wanted to go faster, they probably wouldn't buy a Boxster.

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You have a point, Al. I'm certainly not going to fork over several thousand bucks to have a LN-approved shop install the Solution in order to qualify for the 5-year warranty. However, Jake Raby indicated that DIYers should nevertheless go through the registration procedure, including sending LN the old bearing. It will provide proof that the Solution has been installed. That's really all I care about, because it's unlikely the warranty would be needed anyway.

Quotes source post: 665315

Haha, thanks. I watched a video about Doug DeMuro's acquisition of a Carrera GT. Kudos to him, but I believe I derive as much enjoyment from my inexpensive 986 as he does from his million-dollar hypercar. Ditto with Hoovie and his Bugotti Veyron.

Quotes source post: 665313

My guess is that lawyers nixed LN providing a transferrable lifetime warranty with the Solution. Too bad, because a limited warranty on such an expensive item gives potential buyers pause. Not me, though. The product registration is the important thing.

Quotes source post: 665312

I'll bet LN originally wanted to offer a transferrable lifetime warranty. "That wouldn't be wise," lawyers no doubt advised them. And to think I almost went to law school...

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Oh, I totally get it. That's why I do all the servicing on my cars myself. When I had more time, I even swapped and rebuilt engines. But not on the Boxster (yet). The only thing I can't do is rebuild transmissions. Looking forward to reading up on your progress.

The IMS cover flange appears to have a shallow dish, which means it's a dual-row bearing. Oddly, the flange is secured with hex-head bolts. Every other one I've seen used Torx. Ees a puzzlement. Perhaps I should replace them with Torx? In any case, after the lift table arrives I'm going to pull the bearing and eyeball it before I order the new one. I also drained the oil from the new engine and removed the filter and inspected it. It was clean as whistle, of course.

The bolts came both ways, most were hex headed. Your IMS Solution kit will include new bolts.

Quotes source post: 665327

I've watched it done. Seems pretty straightforward, a step at a time. If your transmission went south I bet you'd roll up your sleeves, as would I. Edit: Upon reflection, it's more likely that I would pay a visit to eBay and find a replacement transmission, and you'd probably do the same. But it would be interesting to rebuild one. They're like a big metal puzzle.

Quotes source post: 665334

The closest I came to rebuilding a transmission was replacing the tail housing on a 2011 Outback. I found a 29K mile one that was wrecked and the rear mount broke the tail housing. For that reason it was very cheap and I had a bad transmission with a good housing so I went for it. When I took it apart little parts started falling out. Luckily, I was able to put it all back together. That was about 6 years ago and my friend's son has the car now. I've watched many youtube videos of people rebuilding transmissions. It seems straightforward, but those guys can do it in their sleep. They know what to look for and what clearences should be and stuff like that. Not my wheelhouse. I use Dodge Caravans as my work vehicles and they drop transmissions all the time. It doesn't help that I log 50-60k miles a year. I always paid someone to do them. Less downtime, mainly. Maybe after I retire and have more free time I might venture into tearing one down. But I'll have to have the right mindset for it, and right now it doesn't interest me that much.

Quotes source post: 665330

Just remember to lock the cams and remove the chain tensioners 'before' you remove the flange cover, and of course that dual row bearing that you will be removing will be in great condition..

Quotes source post: 665343

Agree completely. I understand a few folks have gotten away with it without locking the cams, and I also read that 5-chain engines are less susceptible to jumping a tooth during the process, but I don't like taking chances. I borrowed LN's official toolkit, which includes the cam-locking widget. BTW, I read the tensioners can be simply loosened instead of removed. What's your thinking about that?

Remove them, that way you know they are fully released; and be sure to mark where they came from because they are not all the same and you will need to replace their seals as well.

Quotes source post: 665344

If I remember rightly the tension of the chains pulls the IMS off center making the reinstallation of the flange a challenge. If you are going to change the chain tensioner pads in the heads you have to remover the tensioners, so do the IMSB at the same time. By the way, in the PET they are called chain adjusters, which is handy to not confuse them with other parts that are tensioners... but I'm a minority of one who would like to adopt the Porsche nomenclature.

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Or remember that the number of circles on the head of the adjuster (tensioner) is the same as the guide on the block right beside the hole where the adjuster goes.

Quotes source post: 665348

Not everyone notices that, judging from the number of ones we find switched..............

The clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, etc. on the old engine are original, with155,293 miles on them. I might have to replace the whole works, which would cost around a thousand bucks for a quality aftermarket setup. Yikes!. Installing the new engine is like yanking a piece of yarn on a sweater. Well, in for a penny, in for a pound...

Quotes source post: 665351

Original clutch and pressure plate? Then I'm guessing the imsb is original too. 155K miles. Not too bad.

Quotes source post: 665359

I agree, Al. The guy I bought it from was the third owner, and as far as he knew nothing had been done to the car other than oil changes. The dual-row bearings have a 1% failure rate (compared to 8% for the single), so I guess that accounts for its longevity. However, Jake Raby said the best thing you can say about a ball-bearing unit is it hasn't failed yet , but it's only a matter of time. Something else beat it to the punch, and I'm glad it did. Otherwise, I would have missed the low-mileage engine, which are rare as white whales. My lift table hasn't arrived yet. I was hoping it would be delivered yesterday, as I'm about to leave for Eugene for three days.

Received this shipping notice today for my lift table: "Sorry! Due to the severe snowstorm along the way, the delivery of your package has been delayed and may take longer to arrive. We will urge the courier to resume delivery as soon as possible." D'OH! Don't they realize I can't work on that engine until I get the table?! Why, I oughta...

The lift table just arrived. Now I need to assemble it. Like the engine crane, it's a heavy beast.

The 1100 lb. lift table was finally delivered today. It has a higher capacity than the yellow table I posted about earlier, at about the same price (or was — they raised the price by $60 the day after I bought it). Dimensions: 31.5" L x 19.5" W x 33.5" H. It's made of thick steel and is powder coated. I was happy to see it has large rubber wheels. Funny thing, see the plastic bag on the crossmember at the bottom? It contains parts that don't seem to belong to the table. No mention of them in the 1-sheet assembly instructions. I hate it when parts are left over. I taped the bag there in case their purpose dawns on me. I plan to put my 500 lb. engine on it tomorrow. I have some short 2x4s and 1x2s I can use to block it level.

Advice needed. Although it's still mostly supported by the hoist, the engine seems to sit solidly and securely on its large, thick aluminum sump cover. I had intended to put blocks under it, but it's not obvious how blocks should be placed. Can the sump cover support the weight of the engine without being damaged? If not, how are other folks approaching the problem? As I said, the hoist is supporting most of the engine's weight at this time. BTW, you'll notice the bottom of the engine is dirtier than the rest of it, thanks to 39K miles of road grime. Gotta correct that state of affairs (along with the transmission) before I put it in the car. Clean engine, clean mind.

Quotes source post: 665439

JFP would know for sure, but I'd think it's OK, since the cover is flat and the pressure is transferred to edges. The danger would be a single pressure point in the center. I'd recommend a rubber mat of some sort. That diamond pattern steel can easily gouge or scratch the aluminum sump with even the slightest movement.

Quotes source post: 665442

Al, I've been wondering when someone would comment about the diamond plate. Like you, I wasn't aware (until I touched it) that it's only a rubber mat with a diamond-plate pattern. Looks like the real McCoy. The only structure in the center of the sump cover is the oil drain plug, but luckily it's recessed. Even if it projected, the "diamond plate" would probably compress enough to protect it. Nevertheless, I'm prepared if JFP tosses cold water on the idea, in which case I'll have to come up with a blocking solution utilizing 2x4s and 1x2s.

If that cover on the lift is a compliant mat (rubber, etc.) you should be fine; if it isn't, I would get a heavy-duty rubber mat to set it on.

Quotes source post: 665446

Thanks, JFP. That diamond plate rubber is pretty compliant and heavy duty. I have another question for you. It's my understanding that, with a 5-chain engine, only the bank 1 exhaust cam needs to be locked, that with the crank locked at TDC and the one exhaust cam locked, all the chains are immobile. I read that 3-chain engines do require the intake cam to also be locked. However, some folks would have you believe that, even on a 5-chain engine, the intake cam also needs to be locked, as well as both cams on bank 2, contrary to my understanding. Is that another case of the blind trying to lead?

I would prefer to call it being "belt and suspenders" about it. Because the five chain engines have both cam tied together by the small chain, installing a single smaller locking tool on bank #1, the right bank (looking at the flywheel), all the chains are held during the retrofit proceedure. Some prefer to lock both banks, but that is not required.

Quotes source post: 665450

D'OH! I meant bank 1's exhaust cam, not bank 2's. I'm going to correct that right now so that future readers won't be confused (or think I'm a nitwit).

Quotes source post: 665451

I am not sure what is a nitwit.. But, the cam locking tool is inserted into both, the intake and exhaust cam slots, then bolted into the block (just to keep the tool from falling off). BTY, you are taking lots of pictures, right? We will enjoy being part of your journey

Quotes source post: 665452

Hmmm, I understood the double-cam lock was for 3-chain engines. In any case, it's considerably different from the single-cam lock (which also bolts to the block), so I don't think they're interchangeable (see photo). I'm now setting up the workspace with the engine positioned on the lift table in such a way as to provide access to the IMS bearing and rear main, as well as both cam covers (for when I replace those pesky Variocam wear pads, a.k.a. timing chain tensioner shoe pads). You can count on lots of photos, in addition to descriptions, explanations, complaining, philosophizing, and bloviation. Otherwise, where's the fun of it?

Perhaps there is something I don't get but as I understand it you have to lock the cams, at least, in the opposite head to the one you are working on. Personally I lock both. You are right, on the 5 chain engines you only lock one cam on each side with the shorter tool.

Quotes source post: 665458

Isn't the reason JFP mention for only driver side bank (2) cam to be locked on 5-chain engine because: to change the IMSB you take only two chain tensioners out - 1 tensioner for the IMS - cam and 1 tensioner for the IMS - crank. Risk to have the chain to skip a teeth is when there is no tension on the chain. On the passenger side bank (1), the tensioner will remain in place under tension and the chain should not have a chance to skip there while you work on IMSB.

Ready for action. As you can see, I have all the tools I'll need.

Quotes source post: 665458

LN's IMS toolkit includes only one shorter, single-cam locking tool, which I plan to use to lock bank 1's exhaust cam, since locking only one cam (in addition to locking the crank at TDC) immobilizes all five chains. If I wished to also lock bank 2's cam as belt and suspenders I would need to procure another single-cam locking tool.

Quotes source post: 665460

Actually, every knowledgeable source, including JFP, Jake Raby, and LN, recommends locking the exhaust cam on bank 1, the passenger side, on a 5-chain engine. Regarding tensioners, it's my understanding there are three, two timing chain tensioners and one IMS chain tensioner. LN recommends removing all three: https://lnengineering.com/files/2023-IMSS-instructions-rev-03-24.pdf JFP, care to weigh in?

I agree, but make sure you have new sealing washers for the hydraulic tensioners and make note of where they came from as they are not all the same.

Quotes source post: 665464

Noted, thanks.

Quotes source post: 665464

I agree that more we elminate the risk of messing up the cam timing the better. Anyhow, what I mentioned below is same as the Pelican Parts advices on their technical article regarding removing the two tensioners (I remebered wrong the locking of both vs. only one exhaust cams - both is the right answer): "With the camshaft timing properly marked and the intermediate shaft secured, it's time to remove the two tensioners that pull on the flywheel-end sprockets of the intermediate shaft. The first one to remove is the tensioner for cylinders 1-3, which is located to the right of the flywheel area and is shown in Figure 77. Next, remove the tensioner that tightens the chain that connects the intermediate shaft to the crankshaft, located to the left of the flywheel area (see Figure 78). Be sure to have an oil catch pan ready when you remove these two tensioners, as oil will spill out. Next, remove the center nut from the bearing. " Link here to the same article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm Interesting is that this above is seen as not a good practice

Quotes source post: 665473

You need to be aware that when IMS retrofits all began, Pelican published "their" procedure designed to save the DIY market money, but the end result was a disaster, with far too many retrofits that went bad due to their "special procedures", some of which required engine disassembly to repair. Jake Raby developed a proven method which is the only one LN Engineering recommends to this day. We have used that exact procedure on innumerable retrofits, and never had a problem. Stick with the LN procedure and ignore Pelican.

Quotes source post: 665477

I reached the same conclusion after encountering the contradictory information. I have come to view Jake Raby as the authority when it comes to IMS bearing replacement. However, Pelican has some useful information about other procedures.

Quotes source post: 665484

Jake and Charles Navarro invented the sport, encountering multiple ways not to do a retrofit before they found the optimum solution to the problem that even Porsche originally said was not possible. Several others, including Pelican, tried to come up with simpler or cheaper DIY ways to address the problem, all of which cut corners and led to problems, some fatally. The problem for the indie shops doing retrofits was always the teary-eyed customers that flat bedded their cars to the shop after screwing up the project, only to be told that their engine had to come out and apart to fix what they had done to them with these simpler and cheaper techniques. Probably the dumbest was an early (Wayne Dempsey days) Pelican procedure that did not use ANY cam holding tools, but instead used Allan head set screws threaded into the back of the engine case thru the IMS flange bolt holes to try and hold the chains by putting pressure on the gear on the rear of the IMS shaft in a vain attempt to lock the chains. Unfortunately, that rear gear is pressed on and slip prone, resulting in that gear being pushed forward on the IMS shaft, and the shaft suddenly jumping upwards and to the right due to the tension on the chains. When this happened, cam timing was lost and there was no way to reposition that gear without taking the shaft out of the engine. We probably encounter a dozen or more cars in this condition that were brought to the shop. Long story short, there are a lot of wrong ways to try and attempt this retrofit, and one proven right way that now even Porsche has adopted. Do it right and you do it once; do it wrong and you will be spending some serious $ to get out of the hole you created.

My comment was in the context of replacing the chain tensioner pads, which it is logical to do if the engine is out of the car. If only the IMSB is to be replace one lock would be enough.

Quotes source post: 665485

Yes, I read and reread and reread yet again Pelican's description of the set-screw method and it seemed flaky to me, so I'm relieved that I'm not alone in that assessment. I think I'll be fine if I follow Jake Raby's method to the letter.

Quotes source post: 665490

Ah, that makes sense, Grant. I do plan to replace the Variocam wear pads after the IMS bearing, and I've borrowed the official kit, which comes with its own set of cam locks.

I've been notified that my "IMS Solution Bearing Replacement Kit for Dual Row IMS 97-01 Boxster 911 Models" has shipped! Let no snowstorm or other act of God delay its delivery (or there will be whining).

While waiting for the Solution to arrive I've been researching bore scoring, second only to IMS bearing failure in causing catastrophic failure in Porsche engines. I own a borescope and had planned to eyeball the cylinders through the spark plug holes, as I have done with conventional engines. However, I've learned from LN's pre-qualification procedure and from videos at flat6innovations.com (Jake Raby's company) that this method is not sufficient, that one must remove the sump cover and examine the cylinders from underneath. D'OH! There is a ray of light, though. It seems M96 engines are less prone to bore scoring, because the pistons are cast rather than forged ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7idZe6qAtg 9:45). So I'm idling in neutral at the moment. Perhaps my almost OCD-level perfectionism will force me to unbolt the sump cover and have a look. But doggone it, as I've complained before, making this new engine bulletproof is like yanking a piece of yarn on a sweater. It's only 1 pm here on the West Coast, but it feels like beer thirty. And I don't drink.

In the interest of settling the questions about which and how many cams to lock, here are a couple excerpts from LN's IMS Solution installation manual: "Lock right side (when facing flywheel) camshaft in place using IMS pro tool kit camshaft timing jig. Use the shorter cam lock on 5-chain and longer one on 3-chain engines." [Note from LWG: The exhaust cam is not specified above, but an accompanying photo shows the bottom cam, the exhaust.] "Some installers prefer to lock camshafts on BOTH banks of the engine. This is a practice that is not required, and is a matter of personal preference. With the crankshaft, and one bank of camshafts locked, all timing chains will be held tightly in the proper position for a successful IMS Retrofit procedure."

Crank locked at TDC and bank 1 exhaust cam locked down. Well... the cam's almost locked down — a drill bit is holding the lock in place until I can obtain the appropriate bolt. Anyone happen to know the specs on the bolt I need? I didn't have a 24 mm open-end wrench to turn the crank with, so I used a large metric crescent wrench. (I own a lovely matched set of metric and SAE crescent wrenches.)

The hydraulic tensioner under the air conditioning compressor has been torqued so much I couldn't break it loose with a breaker bar on the 32 mm socket without the engine moving on the lift table. The engine is positioned exactly where I want it; I don't want it to move. Tapping the breaker bar with a heavy rubber mallet tomorrow should break it loose. I call that an "old-school impact wrench." I've marked each tensioner and its housing with matching numbers — 1-1, 2-2, 3-3. After the tensioners are removed, I'll stuff plastic wrap in their respective holes to keep stuff out. Then it will be time for sacrilege: defacing the crankcase by cutting a notch for the oil fitting on the Solution's IMS flange. Talk about an invasive procedure! However, I acknowledge the necessity. There seems to be a variety of methods for creating the notch, but I plan to use the LWG method, which involves tungsten-carbide burr bits, my new Ryobi, and eye protection.

Quotes source post: 665530

It is the same bolt that holds the pressure plate to the flywheel. Since you are not supposed to reuse these you should have some available.

Quotes source post: 665532

Thanks, Grant. Good idea. But the pressure plate and flywheel are attached to the old engine, which I haven't dropped yet.

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The bore scoring inspection? Locking up everything, including me of the unecssary steps/personal preference? God didn;t gift you with OCD for nothing. Don't be wallowing in your regret a year from now with " shuld haves". Just do it. All. Cover every base. Listen to your OCD. Now... from where did you purchase the set of SAE/metric crescent wrences. I have the SAE, but after spending several hours looking for the metric... zero. Thanks.

Quotes source post: 665538

I've been searching high and low for left-handed wrenches, myself.

Quotes source post: 665538

Actually, I don't have full-blown OCD, I have a much less severe version called OCPD — obsessive-compulsive personality disorder. It's OCD-lite. I strive for perfection, but if perfection is unattainable for some reason, I'm practical. I can say the hell with it. However, you're probably right that I should just bite the bullet and remove the sump cover and scope out the bores. I'll save it until last. I picked up the set of metric and SAE crescents at Bed, Bath & Beyond, in the Beyond department. Alas, they closed all their stores in 2023, so you'll need to find another source.

Quotes source post: 665539

Bed, Bath & Beyond also had a huge selection of those, but they sold out pretty fast.

My old-school impact wrench loosened the tensioners with no trouble. Now I'm ready to perform the sacrilege on the crankcase. Can't happen until I have the Solution in hand, however. I need its flange in order to precisely mark where the notch will be. The alteration is sacrilegious, true, but it shall be done with precision, and not like the one below, which looks like it was done by someone who got carried away with nibbler pliers. Once material is removed from the crankcase, it ain't comin' back.

Quotes source post: 665556

"Measure twice, cut once".............just take your time, mark what needs to be removed and you will do fine.

And just make sure you make the opening large enough to be able to get a socket on the fitting with the trans in place as if anything ever happed (fitting comes lose, etc.), you can service it without removing the trans. Several people only made the opening just large enough to install the flange cover with the fitting installed, but not enough room to get a socket on it or turn it, which means you are pulling the trans out to get at it. Always plan ahead...............

Quotes source post: 665569

Yes, I plan to make the notch a millimeter or two larger than the socket, so marking the cutout will need to be accurate.

Quotes source post: 665568

Also, you can't ruin a project by taking your time, but you definitely can by being in a hurry. I don't have a reputation for being the slowest mechanic on the planet for nothing. EDIT: LN says much the same thing, but more succinctly. From their Post-Procedure Notes: "You can’t rush success, but you can rush failure!"

Solution purchasers are entitled to rent installation tools from LN for the cost of shipping. Although I've borrowed an IMS Pro Tool Kit from a kind forum member to extract the old bearing, LN's $299 Supplemental Tool Kit is necessary to install the Solution's bearing. I can keep the kit for 30 days, but I'm holding off renting it until it's needed. I'm waiting now for a Ryobi cordless right-angle drill to get here. It's the perfect tool for working in tight spaces, such as creating a notch in the crankcase for the flange's oil fitting using a tungsten-carbide burr bit.

If you are thinking about using this for the bell housing slot for the IMS Solution oil line, let me make a suggestion: WIth just the new flange set loosely in place, make the bell housing lip location with a marker, then drill a small pilot hole to start, increasing the bit size until you are at the opening size needed. Then trim away any excess material first with a fine hacksaw, and then clean up and bevel the edges with these bits. My preferential method is to use a rotary broaching tool once the pilot hole is in place. The broach is basically a very accurate hole saw type tool that makes a very clean hole of the right size in one move, but is rather exensive for a one time DIY:

When I installed a BBI small crank pulley on my '07 987CS, I used a Dremel to file down the TDC marker to make room for the smaller diameter pulley, and I was very surprised how soft the block material was, as the Dremel bit grinded way the material very quick and easy. In other words, go slowly so you don't grind more than you intend it..

Found a better burr bit, one designed specifically for cutting aluminum without clogging. Also bought full-face protection, because grinding aluminum, unlike steel, creates flying shards that slice skin like little knives, according to a metal fabricator I know.

Quotes source post: 665631

I considered drilling and hacksawing, which I'm sure can provide a decent result. However, I have some experience grinding metal from working in a body and fender shop, and I want to try the right-angle drill and burr method. The same method was used in Jake Raby's video demonstrating how to install the Solution, and it resulted in a pretty nice notch after a minimum of thrashing. I do like those broaching tools. My metal-fabricator friend has what he calls a broaching set, but it doesn't include anything that looks like that. They're expensive, you say?

A set of metric or SAE common sizes from Blair/Haugen is about $75 on Amazon; larger sizes can get a bit more expensive:

Quotes source post: 665639

I'm a sucker for new tools, but as you say, they wouldn't be cost effective for a one-off by a DIYer. Still, I might come across (or invent) other projects for which they would be the perfect solution, so I'm glad to know about them.

They have a lot of automotive uses; if you are faced with creating an opening in a metal panel, say a bulkhead, for a wire/cable or tube to pass thru something like a firewall or bulkhead, drills tend to "pull" on the metal, distorting it, which often requires going to a hammer and dolly to beat it flat so that a cable gland can seal it weather tight again. Rotary broach tools cut a flat, undistorted opening of whatever size is required in a single move, just run a deburring tool around the hole and install the cable gland and you are ready to make a weather tight pass thru with minimal time and efffort.

A little interlude while waiting for parts to arrive... I'm a DIYer and proud of it. There was a time, however, when I was semi-pro. My brothers had a shop where they rebuilt customers' engines, and I used to hang around and help. After a while they started depending on me. "Hey, Michelle. Pull the heads off that 327 over there," or "Run this block over to J&S and get it hot tanked." At one point they started paying me for my work. A customer needed his 283 rebuilt, but my brothers were jammed up, so they asked me if I could do the honors. After I knocked out that job I did other rebuilds. Mitch & Jerry's Automotive then had three mechanics. I was 17. Fast forward to the present day. It didn't take me long to realize that much of my experience with conventional engines was not transferable to Porsche's M96. It was a humbling realization. I'm doing my best these days to play catchup. And thank God for DIY, or I couldn't afford to drive my 986. I saw another woman mechanic on TV. Pretty and petite, she said, "Hey... I'm a car guy. Deal with it." I can relate.

Quotes source post: 665642

Dang. 2 days ago, I’d never heard of these, and now I gotta get me a set! Conceptually not all that different from the holesaws I use in carpentry and much quicker than what we used back in the day, which were Greenlee knockout punches (drill a pilot hole, thread the two halves of the punch together thru the hole, and then pull the two halves together).

"Tool Time................"

Been reading and watching videos about bore scoring. The prospect of it — and low-miles engines are not exempt by any means, according to... Charles Navarro, I think it was — makes my hair stand on end. I'm almost afraid to pull the sump cover and have a look with a borescope. But I'll do it. And if I see any evidence of scoring or the beginning of it, I will switch to oil with high-temperature, high-sheer (HTHS) viscosity and with high levels of molybdenum disulfide, a.k.a. Moly. Which, according to Navarro and motor-oil expert Lake Speed Jr., will tend to protect a bore's surface and minimize the scoring's effects. That said, I'm hoping the cylinder walls of my 39K-mile M96 will be stunningly pristine. It could happen.

You need to also understand that bore scoring is almost nonexistent on properly maintained 2.7L engines, and that it tends to be more pronounced on the later GDI engines rather than the port injected versions.

Quotes source post: 665657

And Jack Raby says M96 engines in general are less susceptible to bore scoring, largely due to the use of cast pistons rather than forged. So let me ask you this — in view of those facts and given the engine I'm working on, would YOU remove the sump cover and scope out the bores? Unless you talk me out of it, I'm inclined to do it, because (1) the engine's out of the car, and (2) I'm trying to make it as bulletproof as I can.

As you are in the position to be able to do it, I would go ahead and check it. If you didn't, you will always have it in the back of your mind when it is less easy to do it.

Quotes source post: 665666

Very true. It would probably nag me. I'll save it until last, though. At this point I'm about to measure and mark the cutout, following the old adage, "Measure three or four times, measure again, say a prayer, cut once."

“I cut it three times, and it’s still too short!”

Managed to pry the old bearing flange loose with two flat-blade screwdrivers and a lot of swearing. It was stubborn, I kid you not. What did I use to protect the crankcase from being gouged by the screwdrivers during the process? Popsicle sticks, the mechanic's friend. The exposed bearing doesn't look too bad — so far. Extracting it will have to wait until tomorrow, due to other demands on my time. The bearing puller is ready for action.

This looks like a suspense movie, where you always want more... LOL Thank you for sharing! :-)

Since the bearing I'll be removing is a factory dual-row job, it doesn't have an external snap ring. It has an inaccessible wire lock and I hear tell it requires considerable force by the puller to break it. When it happens it's like a gunshot, they say. And the bearing will likely leave behind wire-lock remnants that'll need to be cleaned out, a job for my telescoping magnet. Hey, I'm looking forward to this episode. After I get the bearing out and the opening sealed, I need to elevate the engine and slip two 2x8s under the sump cover, which will provide the clearance necessary to get my right-angle grinder under the bell housing. Most of grinding will be done from underneath, like in Raby's PCA video. It affords the clearest view of the cutout's outline as I'm working. I plan to take photos of the entire process — at the risk of documenting "... and here's where everything turned to **bleep**." But risk comes with the territory and I'm not a scaredy cat.

Quotes source post: 665711

Wait until I get to the cam chain wear pads* ... then you'll see suspense. *a.k.a. Variocam timing-chain guide-rail pilot ramps

I finally found time to pull the bearing yesterday after dealing with other demands on my time, including taking a cat with cystitis to the vet. The bearing puller uses a 24mm nut, but my wrench set only went up to 18mm. Once again, a big metric crescent wrench saved the day. It required considerable force to remove the factory dual-row bearing, as Jake Raby warned. I was expecting to hear a gunshotlike **crack!** when the puller overcame the wire lock, but a soft metallic sigh was the only sound it made. What a gyp! A couple ounces of oil seeped out of the hole when the bearing came out. I was prepared and caught it with an improvised catch basin. I'm going to send an oil sample to SPEEDynamix to be analyzed. It doesn't cost all that much and should be informative. An analysis can reveal an engine's entire history, according to oil expert Lake Speed, Jr., the man behind SPEEDynamix. As expected, the bearing looked, sounded, and felt perfect. The bearing's wire lock did not break but remained intact. Now I need to order the IMS Supplemental Toolkit from LN Engineering, necessary to install the Solution's bushing. (I've stopped calling it a bearing. It's a bushing, folks.) Renting the kit from LN is free for Solution buyers with a hefty deposit, $509.95 worth of hefty. (Which is interesting, in view of the Supplemental kit's list price of $299.) While I'm waiting for it to arrive I'll be busy, carefully measuring and marking the cutout for the notch, and then grinding, filing, and otherwise machining the notch itself. Photos to come. The next installment will also feature my patent-pending method for sealing the IMS opening to ensure that absolutely zero aluminum particles get in there while grinding. Stay tuned.

Have been following along your journey with great interest. Glad to hear that you went with The Solution instead of the other options. (That is what I chose without hesitation for my car) Pay once-cry once or whatever that saying is. But, it is a "plain bearing". Not a bushing. Best of luck with the rest of the journey. The best part of Boxster ownership is driving the car. Hopefully the car rewards you for you perseverance and investment! cheers

Quotes source post: 665749

Hmmm... Jake Raby or Charles Navarro referred to it as a bushing in one of their videos. It sure looks like a bushing to me. JFP? That aside, thanks for the kind words.

While we're on the subject... A Kansas-based company named Huyett supplies a huge selection of bearings, bushings, and fasteners of every description for a multitude of applications. They consider bushings and bearings to be fasteners... which spins my head around. Anyway, they weighed in on our question on their site: Interesting, huh? Just out of curiosity, when I get a chance I'm going to email Huyett and ask them what they would term the Solution's application in M96 engines. EDIT: Emailing them was a good idea. Unfortunately, I didn't anticipate that Huyett would have no email address. That's what you'd call "old school." I guess a website was leading-edge enough for them.

Quotes source post: 665748

I will opine that to be marketing hype and nothing more. Oil analysis will give you a snapshot in time, so unless you’ve been collecting them periodically, there is no history to be had. A couple of additional thoughts - if you really want to understand the oil, knowing what was put in the engine at the last change is critical and the number of miles since the last change is equally critical. Erm. It’s a bearing. Not a rolling element bearing like the one you removed, but a journal bearing. No clue of the essential details of the LN design (dimensional, pressure in the feed line, etc), so I can’t comment on the actual hydrodynamics of it all (and, in the last 35 years, I’ve forgotten pretty much all of the detail I once knew). Unlike rod and crank mains, it sees no impact loads, so a much less complex problem set in that regard. Lots of flashbacks to closed form calculations, using tensor notation, in that Lubrication Theory elective I took as a grad student. I’m imagining any number of quality software solutions are out there today to make that a whole lot easier to iterate on - LN still had to do the engineering, but the math is less drudgery.

Quotes source post: 665755

Thanks for weighing in, Tom. I take it you disagree with Huyett that the taxonomy of bearings and bushings is somewhat ambiguous? Huyett and other bearing outlets have convinced me that classification is not cut and dried, so I'm backing off from my position. The Solution's design could be described as a type of bearing. Or a type of bushing. From here on in I will call it a bearing for the sake of clear communication. Good points about oil analysis. Analyzing the sample I'm sending in can detect wear metals, fuel dilution, and other contaminants that indicate potential issues and reveal whether the engine has any ongoing problems, which is my primary concern.

Quotes source post: 665750

Mechanically, it is a bushing that is serving as an oil fed bearing.

The picture with the oil is interesting. As the oil level drops when the engine starts, this small amount leaking out is proof that the bearing really only lives from its grease filling during operation.

Quotes source post: 665760

I do disagree with them. In this application, It’s a hydrodynamic bearing. There is a clearance between the OD of the shaft and the ID of the bearing. The oil which is pressure fed to it, given that clearance and the feed pressure, creates pressures internal to the bearing which are well in excess of what the feed pressure is, hence the term hydrodynamic. The same principle is at play in your mains, conrod big ends, camshafts (journals, not lobes), etc. Please consider it a data point and nothing more. If the engine was run very briefly, that last time it ran, you will see fuel dilution numbers which are an artifact of a cold start (so over rich combustion) and quick shutoff, for instance. Note: I am a big fan of oil testing and have been doing it for years, across our small fleet of 2 & 4 wheeled vehicles.

I misquoted Lake Speed Jr. when I wrote: What he actually said was that periodic oil analysis can reveal an engine's history. In my haste to click the Submit button I distorted his words. My apology to Lake and to the forum.

Quotes source post: 665764

Generally, if there's high speed and/or high load its called a bearing. Think main and rod bearings. They are really bushings, but given their application they're called bearings. The same would apply to the solution.

Quotes source post: 665796

Think of the small end of the connecting rod on an old style V8 engine: to allow the piston wrist pin to properly float, the small end of the connecting rod has a bronze sleeve bushing pressed into it with annular oil groves in it to permit lubrication; when in operation, that sleeve becomes an bearing. What it is is all a matter of semantics: a mechanical engineer would call the Solution a bushing because of its design features; in function, it is an oil fed bearing.

I measured and marked the cutout for the notch to my satisfaction. It's 20mm wide, which provides room to put a 13mm deep socket on the oil fitting. Note my aforementioned patent-pending seal for the opening, fabricated from thick, extra-sticky Gorilla tape. How sticky? It took a lot of pulling to peel the prototype off. It seals the opening tighter than a bull's rear end at fly time (one of my dad's expressions, approximately). Not a chance of aluminum particles from grinding getting past the seal, but as belt and suspenders I stuffed a paper towel in the opening before sealing it. I'm ready to grind the notch. Unfortunately, that will have to wait until tomorrow due to a previous commitment.

Quotes source post: 665797

Exactly: All a matter of semantics. Like I said about main and rod bearings. They're bushings, but given their application they're called bearings.

I'VE GOT IT! It's a bearinglike bushing. Or a bushinglike bearing, take your pick. Whichever it is, it's unlikely to fail, and that's all I care about.

By the way, my next-to-last post contained proof that I'm getting a handle on my OCD-Lite. There was a time when I would have spent hours carefully cutting out the seal with an X-Acto instead of scissors, and I would have made sure that the marking lines for the cutout were straightedge-perfect. These days I'm deliberately freehanding, and that's an example. I've found that in general it's more fun and doesn't take nearly as much time. (Time, as it dawns on everyone sooner or later, is the most precious commodity of all.) Nevertheless, the notch itself will be as machinelike perfect as I can make it. Because as long as I'm performing the sacrilege of defacing the crankcase, the least I can do is make it look like it belongs there.

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Not all bushing are bearings, but all bearings are bushings

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Thanks, Captain Obvious.

Not quite finished but getting there. Unfortunately, I have to go out to dinner, so finishing touches will have to wait until tomorrow.

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Wow! that looks great! Judging by how the socket fits in there I'd oversize it a bit in case the fitting sits at an angle. Maybe you can try a dry fit to make sure?

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I'll definitely dry fit it, Al. The notch needs a little work on the left side, which will open it up another millimeter. You mentioned the angle; I've been considering making the notch's sides the same angle as the oil fitting. It's only five degrees or so off vertical... Wait a minute... angling the sides strays into the kind of obsessiveness I'm trying to subdue these days. It could be done, sure, and it would turn out nice, but it makes more sense (and would take a whole lot less time) to simply open up the un-angled notch until it has clearance enough to accommodate the angle. The dry fitting will tell the tale.

Quotes source post: 665830

Don't worry, you're not OCD enough unless you try to devise some sort of dust boot to seal the hole you just made! Until you try that, I'd say you already have it under control.🤣

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Go ahead and laugh, Al, but a dust boot did cross my mind! I've got some 1/4"-thick scrap rubber that could be pressed (literally) into service.

Wow! It is very impressive how clean the radius of the cut came out, if you file the sharp points a bit, it could pass as a factory made notch :-)

After I returned from my dinner engagement last night I headed out to the shop. Whereupon I promptly destroyed my last sanding/grinding drum. So I had Amazon overnight these replacements at $7.99 for 210 drums. (And nighttime is over, so where are my drums?!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2DF2RGK A drum sander/grinder is all you need to grind the notch. Aluminum burr bits are massive overkill; they don't provide the fine control you need. It's like using a bulldozer when you really need a shovel. Intended for Dremels, the drums have 1/8" shanks, but my Ryobi right-angle grinder can accommodate them. The drums' 80-grit aluminum oxide cuts through the crankcase's aluminum with no problem. Forget drills, forget hacksaws, and especially forget aluminum burr bits — drums are the answer.

Quotes source post: 665843

Great minds, Gilles. My metal-fabricator friend Mark told me the same thing. According to him, sharp edges combined with vibration tends to promote cracks. "Soften them edges," he said. Good looking out, you guys. But I intended to hit those edges anyway. The goal is to make the notch look factory.

Before making further alterations to the notch I tried a dry fit. I vacuumed aluminum particles from the inside of the bell housing and used a tack cloth to catch any stragglers. Then I peeled off the opening's seal and set the flange in the opening, taking care not to push it in, which could damage the flange's triple seal. I used a bolt to hold the flange in place. The notch had enough clearance to put a socket on the fitting, but it was tight. So I replaced the seal over the opening (it had more than enough stickum left) and opened the notch a couple millimeters. I also made the notch a millimeter or so deeper so that, when bolted to the bell housing, the transmission case won't interfere with the socket. Finally, I "softened" the notch's edges with a flat bastard file (and no need to use a round motherflipper). The end result looked as though the factory had machined it, which was my objective. I'm glad that's done. Now I'm waiting for the Supplemental kit to get here so I can install the Solution. LN shipped the kit today and it's scheduled to arrive on 2/17, a welcome break that will allow me to attend to some things I've been putting off, things that actually bring in money rather than consume it.

Quotes source post: 665842

If you must, maybe one of these would work: https://www.amazon.com/Assortment-Firewall-Electrical-Plumbing-Automotive/dp/B0BFX9ZYDZ?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A1L4EVDV9X5RUP&gQT=1&th=1

Quotes source post: 665905

Thanks, Al. I'll keep those in mind.

After the Solution is installed, and before I tackle the cam chain wear pads, I'll replace the rear main seal. Ordered one from LN and also bought the tool to set the new RMS's depth (RMS: $39.52, Seal Tool: $45.00, both sensibly priced). Installation seems fairly straightforward, not much different from other rear main seals.

You might or might not have noticed that nearly every one of my posts has been edited. I take pains to make sure that each post says what I set out to say as clearly as humanly possible. Why do I go to the trouble? OCD-LIte would be a good guess, but that's not the primary reason. I do it because folks will be reading this forum for decades. Everyone's posts will be read hundreds, possibly thousands, of times. I regard these words as my progeny. From the here and now I say, "Hello, future people! Hope you find something of value in my contributions. Good luck with your 986 DIYing. As every DIYer learns, it requires caution, guts, and lots of swearing."

Barring unforeseen circumstances, I'm going to install the Solution bushing — I mean, bearing — tomorrow. Reaching a point where I understood the process turned out to involve a modicum of head scratching. LN's engineering's IMS Solution Installation Manual , supplied with every Solution, is sorely in need of revision, one with clearer photos. Written by Jake Raby, the current manual is unclear in spots, skips over crucial steps, and relies on assumptions, although it makes perfect sense if you already know how to do it. Jake, being the inventor of the Solution, could probably install one in his sleep. But then, Jake's a brilliant engineer, not a professional writer. For about three seconds I considered offering LN my services, but I'm currently stretched too thin with other projects, not including the engine swap. However, I think I'll start a new thread and create the kind of concise Solution installation how-to I wish had been available from the get-go. I'll do it for the DIYers of the future. Above: IMS Solution Supplemental Tool Kit (L.), IMS Pro Tool Kit (R.). (And toolkit is one word, but let's not go schoolmarm on LN.) The Solution's bush... bearing and its installation tool and the IMS tube plug are beside the manual (but not beside the point). Some of the Pro kit's tools are in use, thus the empty foam pockets.

Best laid plans... I'd forgotten I had promised to help a friend remove the starter from his Isuzu Rodeo and rebuild the solenoid, since I had done it on mine a couple months ago. Needless to say, the IMS bearing will not be going in today. I want to be rested and fresh for the procedure.

As my mother used to say "Haste makes Waste". Good idea to tackle it with a fresh mind. I find any auto related job to be easier when I think about what I will be doing the night before.

I thought I had viewed all the IMS Solution videos available, but somehow I overlooked this one, in which Jake Raby fills in the holes in LN's installation manual. I was glad to see that the details I'd worked out on my own were correct. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oKlgMNYOxA So there's no need for me to write up a how-to, leaving more time for actual wrenching. Speaking of which, I finally have a chance to install the bearing after lunch.

Take lots of pics, please.

Jake Raby mentioned that variances in the inside diameter of the intermediate shaft can sometimes result in a tight fit for the bearing, and he wasn't kidding. Forget tapping — seating the bearing required many mighty blows with a heavy rubber mallet. That was a surprise, since I kept the bearing in the freezer and lubricated its outside liberally with assembly lube, as per Step 30 in the IMS Solution Installation Manual . I managed to get it seated before my arm gave out. Next comes a shim, followed by a retainer clip that fits in a groove around the inside of the shaft to keep the bearing in place. Getting it in the groove is a challenge. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts to master the technique, I decided I needed a break. I'm on my break now! One hour later... I can't think of a single reason why that blankety-blank clip can't wait until tomorrow.

I wonder why they didn't use a regular internal c-clip that you can install and remove with snap ring pliers. That will be a justifiable cause for some serious curse words if you have to remove it. I can't remember the last time I've seen one of those, but I think I know the trick. You probably do too, but it wouldn't hurt to reiterate it. Do you see how the clip has a slit at the 8:30 or 9:00 position in the picture? That is not a straight cut for a reason. If you pry it apart there, you'll see that one end comes to a point on the outside and the opposite end has a point on the inside. I think your best chance is to insert the end with the outside point first. It has the best chance of staying in the groove while you go around the horn pushing the rest of the clip in. Good luck!

Quotes source post: 666108

Thanks, Al. And using a small flat-blade screwdriver to guide it around the groove supposedly makes it easier. That's the technique I'm going try to employ after breakfast and I'm properly psyched. LIke you, I wondered why they didn't just use a standard snap ring. But then, I also wondered why they didn't use a standard torx or allen for the transmission fill plug, instead of requiring a triple-square bit.

The reason LN used a Spiralock instead of a snap ring has to do with the original wire ring used in the tube; the Spiralock conforms to the grove machined into the tube better than a flat snap ring would, giving you a superior holding power.

I must comment about the quality of LN's products. Beautifully machined, they are almost works of art, worthy of a place on the mantel. Here's an exploded view of the installation tool and the bearing as it's installed in the shaft:

Quotes source post: 666110

Spiralock! Many thanks, JFP. I've been searching for the official designation. Thanks to you, I found a company with a trick name for theirs, Spirolox, and they have an installation how-to: https://blog.diamondracing.net/how-to-install-spirolox

I managed to get the Spiralock installed, with the help of a small flat-blade screwdriver. I think it's fully in the groove, but I didn't have sense enough to measure the width of the lock before I put it in. Consequently, I can't be sure how much is actually in the groove, which is only a millimeter or so deep. A couple millimeters of the shim can be seen behind the lock. It seems secure. I can't easily pop it out of the groove with the screwdriver. I think it's okay. In fact, I'm almost sure it might be.

Quotes source post: 666110

Isn't the Spiralock flat too?

Quotes source post: 666114

Looks great! That thing ain't going nowhere!

Seated, the bearing was less than a millimeter in from the groove, about the thickness of the shim. Which I figured was the objective. But a little voice is whispering, "What if the bearing isn't fully seated, and there wasn't enough clearance for the lock to fully engage in the groove?" I hate that voice. The only way to shut it up is with experience, but this is the only IMS bearing I'm likely to install. At least, I hope it's the only one.

By the way, not to stir the pot again, but Jake Raby refers to the Solution's bearing as a "bushing" here, at 18:12: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZ87UcYkT7A&t=892s

Quotes source post: 666115

Yes, but because of its spiral sectional design, it can better conform the bottom of this grove, which is slightly curved, much like a "U" to accept a round wire. A snap ring would not fully seat in this grove.

Quotes source post: 666124

Got it. thanks.

I examined the Spiro-loc (which is how the manual spells it) with a magnifying glass and was satisfied it's in the groove, baby. So I proceeded to install the flange, taking great care to insert it evenly so as not to pinch its triple seal or disturb the stud's o-ring. I'm ready to torque the flange bolts and center stud nut, but I encountered an unforeseen problem. Seems my 7/16" box end won't fit into the flange's notch and allow me to tighten the nut (while holding the stud with a screwdriver) enough to start torquing it. No room to get it on the nut. I'm stymied. A possible solution is to find a wrench that's more svelte than the one I have. Don't ya just love those unexpected work stoppages?

Been looking at wrenches on Amazon. Most of them look like mine. I added "thin-wall" to the search and it came up with this set: https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-11-Piece-Wrench-Combination-Organizer/dp/B0C9W2C34M/ More cheap Chinese tools, but I figure for what they cost, if the set's 7/16" box end works on that one nut, I will consider it money well spent; otherwise, I'm out only fourteen bucks. To my eye, these 12-pt box ends do look perhaps a millimeter thinner than on the ones I have. They'll be here tomorrow and then we'll see. Why, you may be asking, does LN use both metric and SAE? That's a good question. The oil-line fittings are metric, but the Solution Supplemental kit provided a 7/16" deep socket specifically for that one nut, which came in the bearing kit for the stud. Wish they had included a 7/16" box end I could get on that nut.

Quotes source post: 666132

Perhaps you'd be better off with one of these pass-through sockets: https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-and-metric-pass-thru-socket-set-21-piece-62305.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739207&campaignid=21901739207&utm_content=171677809102&adsetid=171677809102&product=62305&store=496&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq-u9BhCjARIsANLj-s2nkJNBm1KzUzJU4wwXF8mwDPMCKJ1H48bAjB74_eW5FNLna8e AnpgaAi3_EALw_wcB Your problem seems to be more of a depth issue than a clearence issue. These are sockets that are open all the way through so you can use a screwdriver to hold the bolt. At the same time, like every other socket, they can reach in and tighten the nut.

You may want to review the Jake Raby procedure on YouTube that you cited as what you are experiencing is shown around 20:54 of the video.

Quotes source post: 666137

I saw that too, unfortunately the video kind of speeds past that. Shows him using a socket and a screwdriver and then cuts away to him using a torque wrench.

Thanks, you guys. I already tried the socket/screwdriver method yesterday, but I can't seem to get the nut tight enough so that the stud doesn't turn. It needs to be fairly tight before it can be torqued. I'm going to try again, turning the socket with vice grips, protecting it with a shop rag. The problem is that only a small screwdriver will fit through the socket, seemingly too small to hold the stud. Nevertheless, after working on it all night in my dreams, I'm going to have another go at it. The hopefully thinner-walled box ends won't be here until later today anyway.

Quotes source post: 666140

Were you using a 7/16 with a 1/4" drive or 3/8"? You'd fit a larger screwdriver if you have one with a 3/8" drive. And the passthru sockets from Harbor Freight have an even larger opening. Hopefully I'm wrong, but I suspect the thinner box wrenches may not me much help in this situation.

By the way, the manual states, in Step 38: "Using assembly lube, lubricate IMS Solution bearing and install IMS Solution flange into bearing by hand. Then using a soft face hammer, lightly tap the IMS Solution flange until is is flush with crank case." Right. But when getting it the last quarter-inch or so to make it flush, I forgot about "lightly tapping." Making it absolutely flush required a couple dozen mighty blows with my 45-oz rubber hammer. After driving in the bearing and now the flange, my right arm is beginning to look like Popeye's. I did everything I could to facilitate an "interference fit," as my friend the metal fabricator calls it. I kept the flange in the freezer overnight. The place I'm working in is unheated, but I placed a heater to direct heat at the opening for a couple hours, until the crankcase felt warm to the touch. I coated the appropriate surfaces on the flange liberally with assembly grease. I don't know what else I could have done. I think I was bitten by the machining-variance situation.

Quotes source post: 666141

The screwdriver won't quite fit through my borrowed 3/8"-drive socket. There's a structure halfway down, no doubt to add strength, that won't allow a screwdriver of sufficient size to go through. Also, it has a shoulder on the outside that won't quite let it seat all the way on the nut due to the narrow notch. A friend is coming over with a 1/2"-drive 12-point 7/16" deep socket, which might be just the ticket, if it's slim enough to fit in the notch. UPDATE: My buddy's 1/2"-drive deep socket won't fit in the notch. I'm checking Amazon for a 3/8"-drive deep socket with overnight delivery. If that doesn't pan out, I'll make a run to Harbor Freight and Home Depot. And I will drill that sucker out if that's what it takes to get a screwdriver through it and on the stud. By the way, all the pass-through sockets I've seen have shoulders that will make contact with the notch and prevent them from seating on the nut. I could grind the shoulder off the 3/8"-drive socket I have, and enlarge the inner structure. I have the technology. However, I borrowed the set it came from and it's owner might not appreciate it.

Found this individual 3/8"-drive 7/16" 12-point deep socket on Amazon for $5.99. It looks perfect — except delivery is Mar 1-4. I don't want to wait that long. Stymied again. I tell ya, this is sexism and rank misogyny, pure and simple! Why, I oughta... UPDATE: After giving it some thought, I realized I could leave the flange and nut untorqued and complete the rest of the Solution installation and perhaps install the rear main seal while I'm waiting for the socket to arrive. If the $14 box ends are a bust, I'll order it.

Quotes source post: 666141

You weren't wrong, Al. The wrench from the $14 set had even less clearance than the one I had. My friend, who's been scratching his head along with me, said he could use a set of SAE wrenches and offered to buy them. But he's been generous to me, so I gave them to him. I proposed grinding down my wrench until it fit, but he talked me out of it. It didn't take much talking, because I agreed it would ruin the set. I stuck the 1/4"-drive deep socket from the Supplemental kit on the nut and examined it again. It's tight, maybe half a millimeter clearance. No wonder I'm tearing my hair out. I just ordered that Capri-brand $5.99 3/8"-drive deep socket, and if it doesn't fit into the notch I won't feel bad about reducing its diameter with a grinder until it does. And I can clamp down on it and turn it with vice grips without worrying about marring the chrome. It's just a one-off, after all. ADDITION: That said, there's something inherently beautiful about sockets and other chrome tools. My torque wrench belongs on an alter. The Chinese company that made the little socket dubbed it a "Capri." As lovely as it is, I won't hesitate to modify the Capri to get it in the notch and on the nut .

Sorry to hear that. Have you thought about taking the original 3/8" drive socket, clamping it on a vise, taking a HSS drill bit to it and boring that inside hole out to accommodate a bigger screwdriver?

Quotes source post: 666153

I would, but the guy whose set it belongs to might object. He's kinda picky about his tools, and I understand that. I'm the same way.

Quotes source post: 666150

You can get this set today for $12.99, which you also wouldn't feel bad about grinding, and you can have all the other sockets as spares or whatever you want: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-sae-high-visibility-deep-socket-10-piece-61291.html

Or this single socket at Lowe's for less than Amazon's price: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Standard-SAE-3-8-in-Drive-12-point-7-16-in-Deep-Socket/3387322

Quotes source post: 666158

D'OH! Lowe's socket would have been perfect. Nice sleuthing, Al. (By the way, the nut requires a 12-point socket, but the sockets in the set from Harbor Freight have 6 points. Great price, though.) Seems to me LN Engineering needs to do one of two things: (1) provide in one of their installation kits a box-end wrench (or a 3/8"-drive socket) that will fit in the flange's notch, or (2) enlarge the notch so that standard tools can access the nut on the stud. I plan to pass the suggestion on to LN. That said, after dealing with them I have enormous respect for LN as a company. Their products are first-rate and their service is exceptional.

Quotes source post: 666165

Ohhh, I didn't realize it wasn't a standard hex nut. I was wondering why you were referring to 12-point sockets! LOL. Shame on me for not putting two and two together. They must do that just to screw with us. It's like my Subaru with those 13mm 12-point head bolts. It's the only damn thing on the car with 12-point bolts. I don't know if they're any better than hex bolts. One time I removed a head on a Subaru and the 12-point rounded out. It was a brand new socket, too. I ended up having to drill that head bolt out.

Quotes source post: 666172

A guy I know didn't have an impact socket, which are 6 point, so he said he was going to use a standard 12-point socket instead. I advised against it. He called me back and sheepishly admitted he had rounded off the bolt's head. "I should have listened to you," he said. I don't know everything, but I do know using a 12-point non-hardened socket with an impact wrench is flirting with disaster.

Quotes source post: 666173

Oh yeah! That's begging for trouble!

LN support insists the 1/4"-drive 7/16" deep socket provided in the Supplemental kit "will work." No idea how, in view of the undeniable fact that a screwdriver small enough to fit through it is too small to hold the stud. I will proceed with my plan to modify a 3/8"-drive socket (or an individual box-end wrench, if I can find one). In the meantime, I'm wrapped up in making an offer on a house, so I haven't had a chance to install the rear main seal yet.

Quotes source post: 666191

SMH. In the video you linked, even Jake said the screwdriver was too small. Good luck on the house.

The 3/8"-drive 7/16" deep socket arrived today. As expected, its diameter is slightly too large to fit in the flange's notch. Not by very much, only a millimeter or so (see side-by-side comparison). A tungsten-carbide drum will grind down the outside circumference in short order. I also need to drill out the structure inside the socket (see photo) so the screwdriver can pass through. Speaking of which, the screwdriver on the left is about the minimum size necessary to hold the stud while the socket tightens the nut. It has to fit though the socket. The small screwdriver on the right is the largest that will fit through the 1/4"-drive socket, the one that LN says "will work." It won't.

Here's a screenshot of the socket used in Jake's Flat Six Innovations video. Without question, it's a 3/8"-drive socket. Note the smaller diameter of the business end, which allows it to clear the notch. I'm guessing the center has been drilled out as well, to accommodate a larger screwdriver. I'm going to try to get hold of Charles Navarro and let him know LN's support is confused on this score. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oKlgMNYOxA

Quotes source post: 666204

Have you thought about griding off these edges of the screwdriver, or a similar throw-away screwdriver? Looks like you can reduce it by about 2mm on each side.

Quotes source post: 666216

True, but you would still need a way to tighten the nut on the stud. The 1/4"-drive deep socket would also need modification to fit a larger screwdriver through it, but that socket belongs to LN's rental kit. I'm working on the 3/8"-drive socket now. I was overly optimistic in predicting the tungsten-carbide drum would grind it down to size "in short order." The steel is tough, so it's taking more time than I had figured on. But I'm making progress.

You need what is call a "pass thru socket" set: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91kvbpIVoDL._AC_SL1500_.jpg The sockets have a large thru opening that the screw driver can pass thru and uses a special rachet that grips the flats on the outside of the butt end of the socket:

Quotes source post: 666221

I recommended a similar set to her about a week or so ago, but she she said she needs a 12-point thin-walled socket and these appear to be neither.

Quotes source post: 666220

You can use a set of vice-grips on the socket. You only need to tighten it enough so it doesn't spin when you put a torque wrench on it, right?

Quotes source post: 666224

Correct. The trick is to get it tight enough, and for that you need either a box-end wrench or socket that fits in the notch and on the nut.

The 3/8"-drive socket will now fit in the notch and on the nut, I'm happy to report. It took a while to grind it down enough, and it wasn't easy. As I said, the steel is tough. Tough enough that an old drill bit I had wasn't up to the task of drilling out the hole for the screwdriver to go through. I'm going to knock off for tonight and hit it with a new bit tomorrow. In the meantime, here's my grinder setup. Note the quarter-inch high pile of steel particles on the paper towel. Needless to say, I wore a mask, nitrile gloves, and eye protection. The bottom photo is a comparison with the 1/4"-drive socket. NOTE TO SELF: Get a bench grinder, for God's sake. This would have been the perfect application for one.

I clicked the "Post Reply" button by mistake. Nothing to see here, folks. Move along...

Quotes source post: 666221

Now that you mention it, I would actually love to have a set of those. However, I'd be surprised if the set's 7/16" socket has a small enough outside diameter to fit in the notch and on the nut, since few do. You've installed a number of Solutions and you must be aware of the flange notch's small size, making access to the nut difficult with standard tools, so what do you use to tighten the center stud's nut?

I have both Snap On and Astro pass thru socket sets and use one of them. At one time, both were available in both six and twelve point design, but the twelve point fell out of favor and became harder to find. We also have a couple of "modified" sockets that had the centers drilled out larger and the outside tip turned down slightly on our lathe. Also be aware that the opening in the flange has changed over time as they updated the design, and that notch has become smaller, requiring some creativity on the installer.

Quotes source post: 666228

There are so many ways that could be done without a bench grinder. You could use one of these to attach the socket to a drill and run it at high RPM over a stationary sheet of sandpaper, or a metal file, or even a grinding stone running in the opposite direction.

Quotes source post: 666235

Good idea, Al. And it probably would have been easier than my improvised grinder. However, I had a very good reason for not going that route: I didn't think of it.

Quotes source post: 666240

That's an excellent reason. Had I known what your approach would be I'd have suggested it sooner. Regardless, you got it done and that's all that matters.

I swear, I've been plagued with obstacles during this entire project. The latest obstacle arose when drilling out the socket. I saved the drilling for last, thinking it would be a snap. It turned out to be an order of magnitude more difficult than shaving down the socket's diameter. I broke a new drill bit trying to get through the socket's two internal partitions. That was disheartening. I'm not equipped properly. Clearly, a drill press is needed, and I'd like to have one someday, but for now I think I'm going to take the socket to a local machine shop and have them do the honors. I know those guys. I'll take a short case of Coors with me.

Quotes source post: 666249

They'll definitely make quick work of it. But if you want to give it another shot yourself, clamp the socket on a vise (I'm sure you have) and start with the smallest bit you have that's just bately too big for the existing hole. Drill through, then go with the next size bit and repeat until you've reached the desired diameter.

Quotes source post: 666250

Yes, I started with 17/64", which was one 1/64" larger than the 1/4" holes in the internal partitions, figuring to proceed to 9/32", 19/64", 5/16", etc. all the way up to 3/8", the objective. After laboriously drilling its way through the first partition, the 17/64" broke in two. Maybe it had a structural flaw. I'll try the 9/32" before I take it to the machine shop. However, I'm pretty busy with a house purchase, so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to find out. At least the Solution is installed, except for torquing the flange and stud. The rear main seal will take only a couple hours, but I expect the cam chain wear pads to be a multi-day project, since I haven't done it before and I tend to be ultra-cautious and mega-meticulous with new procedures. In any case, I plan to finish the swap here before I move all my tools to a new house in a different town.

Congrats on the new house!!

Quotes source post: 666270

Thanks, Al. I'm excited.

somehow I cannot find the link someone shared here about the 'thin wall sockets'..

I'm back from the world of inspections, preliminary reports, seller disclosures, vesting deeds, septic and well-water test results, etc., etc., and the inevitable so forth. Now I need to get cracking on that engine, get it all ready to stick in the car. The OEM cam chain wear pads (a.k.a. timing chain guide rail sets for VarioCam solenoid-actuated chain adjusters) and assorted seals and gaskets I ordered from Pelican on 3/7 hadn't arrived yet, so I called them to see what the holdup was. Turned out they had the wrong billing address associated with my debit card, which seems strange, given that I've ordered lots of stuff from them with the same card. I gave them the correct billing address, the card went though, and they said they would ship the order out today. No harm, no foul, since I won't be ready for those parts until next week. It's too late today to run that socket over to the machine shop and have them drill it out to 3/8". I've broken or worn out three drill bits so far, but I have more bits left, so I might give it another try tonight. Once the screwdriver can fit through it I can finally torque the IMS stud nut. I also picked up a couple of sheetrock screws, which Jake Raby claims is just the ticket (together with pliers) for removing the old rear main seal. The new seal and installation tool for setting the seal's depth are ready to go.

It dawned on me that drilling the socket was the wrong approach. Once again, an 80-grit tungsten-carbide grinding drum, one with a small diameter, was a better solution. Took about 15 minutes.

Also, the order from Pelican arrived today, containing: (2) "Timing Chain Rail Sets for Solenoid Actuated Chain Adjusters" (cam chain wear pads), (2) "O-Rings for VarioCam Chain Adjusters," (3) "Sealing Rings" (for chain tensioners), and (1) "Camshaft End Plug." You're looking at $135.67. The plug alone was $18.03. It was made in Slovenia. Which, as we all know, is where are the finest plugs are made.

I opened a support ticket at LN, asking for assistance: As per steps 41 and 42 of the Solution installation manual I installed the nut on the stud finger-tight, and then I torqued the flange bolts to 10Nm. Using a modified 3/8-drive 7/16" deep socket and a medium-large screwdriver I snugged up the nut on the stud. But now I'm scratching my head, because when I try to torque the nut, the stud turns with the nut. I had assumed snugging the nut would immobilize the stud so the nut could be torqued, but that wasn't the case. I tried tightening the nut more, with the same result. I have followed each step of the installation manual to the letter. How can I get that nut torqued?

Here's why I'm sure the nut and stud are spinning in unison. Note the registration marks. They don't move in relation to each other. Wish Jake Raby were here. No doubt he'd say something like, "I've seen this before, and here's what you need to do..."

LN Support's reply: "The only advice I have is that some customers have used a small zip gun to quickly try and get the nut set and then use the wrench to torque it down." I haven't replied to that. I wouldn't know what to say. This is a nutty situation, the latest in a string of nutty situations during this IMS bearing installation. It's true that this is new territory for me, and that's why I've been extra cautious in following LN's instructions, plus I've watched hours of videos demonstrating the process. I thought I understood every aspect before I began the installation. LN's support is not helpful. Looks like I'm on my own in solving this problem. How is it possible for a nut on a rotating stud to "set" in the first place? It would seem to defy the laws of physics. The only possibility I can think of is that tightening the nut causes the other end of the stud, the part that looks like a valve, to press tightly against the bearing itself, limiting the stud's rotation. I've tried tightening the nut as much as is possible with the socket and screwdriver, and that doesn't seem to fix the problem. The nut and stud are still rotating together. I don't have a pneumatic zip gun at my disposal, but I have a powered ratchet. I guess I could try that. Funny, there's no mention of zip guns or problems with "setting" the nut in LN's instructions. Doggone it, I have years of experience working on conventional engines, but it doesn't help me in this situation. It's humbling. If JFP or someone else with experience installing the Solution can't help me with this, I'm S.O.L. At least, for the moment.

Desperate, I opened a support ticket at flat6innovations.com in hopes Jake Raby himself would respond: Dear Jake, I've run into a problem installing a Solution, one LN's support couldn't help me with. I figured since you invented the Solution you'd know what to do. I'm having a problem getting the nut to "set" on the stud so that it can be torqued. The nut and stud rotate together, which makes torquing impossible. I described the situation in detail on 986 forum in my "Swapping engines" thread, in messages #396-398: https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/86311-swapping-engines.html#post666536 Contacting you here is a last resort. Best regards, Michelle (a.k.a. LoneWolfGal)

i cant get a clear pic of the stud.. is it slotted in the middle ,, is that a small hole with a thread inside ??

okay i have read the thread over and i think i understand your issue .. as a mechanical guy i think i can help... if LN cant. now that you can get a socket on and hold the middle with the screwdriver... .. you need to grind 2 flats on the socket.. this will allow you to put a crowfoot on the socket, then put your torque wrench on the crows foot and tighten to spec. Remember that the torque value will need to be recalculated due to the length of the crow's-foot but that value is easy ... just remember your torque wrench has to fit on the crows foot and clear the socket.. I have a small head beam torque wrench which is perfect, but they might be hard to find now. something like this if the head of your torque wrench is too big. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ttn-23140?srsltid=AfmBOopI5wdDN9cYew5rCafy3rX_JrlLD1np 3yvxx_Jx2pEQD6JddE2zKtQ

Use the crows foot at a right angle to the torque wrench head and no correction is required. The problem you are encountering is why we use the pass thru sockets I mentioned earlier; they have a hex built into them:

Thanks, guys. I see how a crowfoot would work in this application. With a crowfoot on the socket the nut could be torqued while the screwdriver holds the stud. Sort of a Rube Goldberg solution, but whatever works is a good solution. In the service of this approach, I just bought a $15 set of metric crowfoot wrenches and a $53 bench grinder with a 6" wheel for grinding the flats on the socket. I wanted one anyway. Even if Jake comes up with a different solution, I can always use the tools. Honestly, I could've completely rebuilt a 350 cu in Chevy engine in less time than I've spent fiddling with these wackadoodle problems.

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Welcome to the world of Porsche ownership and maintenace................. And believe it or not, Porsche actually makes and sells an obscure and very expensive tool that does exactly what is being described..........

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It's humbling, as I said. On the plus side, it does supply plenty of you-gotta-be-kidding stories to tell. I don't doubt it. Have you seen one in the flesh?

Sorry I didn't read this before you went out and bought more tools, but probably the reason they suggested a 'zip' driver is because it makes sudden impact bursts which could jar the nut into turning without the stud, same way using an impact gun on a wheel lug will not cause the entire wheel to turn like it would when using lug wrench. You could make your own "impact" by simply putting a ratchet on it and lightly tapping the handle with a hammer. Then once you're comfortable that it's properly seated and turns you could troque down to spec.

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I've only seen photos of it, basically it is exactly what just about everyone cobbles together to get the job done, only it cost $400 nearly 15 years ago. Funny bit is I was picking up parts at my local Porsche dealer and a tech was replacing a leaking IMS flange (common on early models, Porshe released a second design with better lip seals), and I looked at what he was using: a cheap deep socket with the business end turned down slightly on a lathe, center drilled out, and a nut welded on the back of it. A $10 functional replacement for the $400 factory tool...................

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I love stuff like that. Forum member Grant fabricated an IMS bearing extractor and installer out of exhaust pipe! Adapt, improvise, overcome... oorah! A friend of mine who's a metal fabricator eyeballed LN's Pro kit and said, "Yeah, it wouldn't be too tough to make this stuff." Of course, he has lathes and all sorts of sophisticated tools. Too bad he's in Canada or I would've called on him to help me modify the socket.

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Jake Raby replied to my trouble ticket: "Piper6909 in the thread is offering some good information. Usually when this scenario occurs the threads of the stud, or the nut have debris or burrs creating this instance. Heavy lubricants can also lead to this when applied to threads. With all the assistance on the thread you have what you need to move forward. The trick that LN advised may seem unorthodox, but it works and does so without any detrimental impacts." Al, since I don't have a pneumatic zip gun, I'm going to try my powered ratchet and maybe the old-school impact hammer method you suggested. The crowfoot set and bench grinder won't be here until tomorrow anyway. I'm not sorry I bought them. You can't have too many tools. I plan to pick up the set of pass-thru sockets JFP recommended.

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The stud has a slot with a hole in the center, which makes it necessary to use a fairly large flat-blade screwdriver, large enough to span the hole. Not sure about the purpose of the hole, but it's not threaded inside.

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Do you have one of these? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XR-20-volt-Max-1-4-in-Variable-Speed-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Tool-only/5014298681?store=2687&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-vf-_-tol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_Dewalt-_-5014298681-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&&ds_a_cid=279391351&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwy46_BhDOARIsAIvmcwNxaIIOxZR30hD0S67m fmfKWaUf6bGqPde54zFC_eFBfk5xQ57T2b4aAq7VEALw_wcB And a set of these? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-Pack-Socket-Adapter-Set/5014901757 If so, you have everything you need. If not, a ratchet and a hammer should work.

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I have an impact driver, a Ryobi. I got tied up with something today, but I'm planning to try it out tomorrow. If it doesn't work, I'll try the old-school hammer method. If that doesn't work, my new bench grinder and crowfoot wrenches are supposed to be here tomorrow and the Rube Goldberg method will almost certainly work. That is, after I grind a couple of flat sides on the socket for the crowfoot. I'll bet the bench grinder wouldn't break a sweat.

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The Ryobi should do it.

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I'm looking forward to trying it, but I couldn't find my set of impact socket adapters. I turned this place upside down looking for them. So I ordered a $5 set with Prime overnight delivery. In the meantime I've been having fun with my Wen bench grinder, grinding the upper part of the socket to receive a 14mm crowfoot wrench, in case the Ryobi can't seat the nut on the stud. The Wen is a marvelous tool. Don't know how I got along without it.

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You called it, Al. The Ryobi did the trick. And now the nut is torqued to 18 ft lbs, a hair short of the max of 20. Still, I'm a little sorry I didn't give this contraption a chance to do its stuff. It probably would have set the nut just as surely as the impact driver. I didn't spend a lot of time grinding facets on the socket, more proof I'm getting a handle on my compulsive perfectionism. Not that I didn't think about it. But this part of the installation procedure has dragged on so long that I modified the socket to the point where the 14mm crowfoot wrench would fit on it and called it good. It ain't pretty but it works. Or would, if given a chance.

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Great! And that's a beautiful contraption you made!

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Thanks, Al. I think I'll try this one next:

Did you replaced the tensioner pads already? Then you should be ready to swap the engines right? :-)

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I was planning to put in the rear main seal next, but I've been psyching myself up to do the cam chain wear pads — reading, watching videos, making sure I've got everything I'll need, wondering if I should replace the chains** at the same time. Before I put a ratchet on the cam covers I want to be absolutely certain I understand each step. I'm getting close. **On a 39K-miles engine I would expect the cam chains to have minimal wear, but then, chains are relatively inexpensive. Still, where do you stop throwing new parts at it? Everything I'm doing to this engine I regard as critical stuff, including replacing the motor and transmission mounts. Sure, it would be nice to replace the AOS; water pump, coils and plugs, oil pressure sending unit and sensor, fuel pressure regulator, crankshaft position sensor, positive crankcase ventilation conduits, etc., etc. Then I could drive to the poorhouse in style! After I make a decision on the cam chains I think I'm going to draw the line there. It's getting close to a year since I've driven my baby. I'm jonesing to get it back on the road.

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Of all the stuff you mention I would only consider changing the AOS simply because it is a lot easier to do with the engine out. Water pump, coils, plugs, CPS etc can be changed when and if necessary with the engine in the car. Chains should be fine.

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It would have to be an aftermarket AOS, because the chances I'd shell out $1650 for a Genuine Porsche AOS are practically nonexistent. I much prefer Amazon's $55 alternative: https://www.amazon.com/Bapmic-99610702304-Separator-Crankcase-1997-2002/dp/B01MZAEBC6/

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Where did you get the $1650 price? Pelican has a genuine Porsche for $192. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610702304.htm?pn=996-107-023-04-M100&bc=c&SVSVSI=0784

What's more difficult to replace than the AOS with the engine in is the coolant tank. That's a real PITA to do and 100 times easier with the engine out. Just a suggestion, if you haven't already addressed it. Pelican has that, too. Yeah, it's pricey, but yours is 25 years old, unless it has been changed already. Is it white or yellow? If it's yellow, recommend changing it. If you could only do one, I'd do the tank because in comparison, the AOS is much easier to do with the engine in, plus the AOS won't leave you stranded if it goes bad.

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You won't be so happy when it dies after two weeks. We only use the factory part. Sunset Porsche out in you neck of the woods has them for $156.

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Oops! I searched for "986 air oil separator" and it came up with this: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/98710792600.htm?pn=987-107-926-00-OEM&bc=c&SVSVSI= If I hadn't been in a rush I would have noticed the form factor was very different.

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I'm gun-shy now. Is this the part of which you speak? https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610614708.htm?pn=996-106-147-08-M100&bc=c&SVSVSI=

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I can't seem to find that AOS at Sunset searching for "AOS" and "air oil separator." (I'm not having much luck searching for parts, obviously.) I will go with factory parts whenever possible. Except, for example, when they want $265.48 for an "air tube," and that's with Sunset's $22.59 discount: https://www.******porscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-air-tube-99611311755 (Pelican won't permit links to competitors' products, so replace asterisks with "sunset.")

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That's the coolant tank, yes.

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Luke at Sunset is a gentleman!

AOS is part # 996-107-023-04 I would also order one of these as it makes installing the lower hose clamp much easier - 999-512-630-00

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Give Luke and the crew at Sunset a call, they will hook you up at reasonable $.

So, AOS and coolant tank. Anything else in the "must replace" category?

The new rear main seal has been installed. Getting the old seal out required some determined reefing on the sheetrock screws, but it finally popped out. The tool used to seat the new seal worked like a charm. All in all, it was an easy job, as others who've done it can attest.

I intended to include these photos in the previous message, but I clicked "Submit" by mistake and editing doesn't allow uploading photos, even under "Go Advanced." Mutter, mutter... And I thought I had taken a shot with the seal completely out, but I thought wrong. Not much to see, just blackness surrounding the crankshaft. As I said, this was an easy procedure. Wish they all were that easy. Wish replacing the cam chain wear pads would be that easy. That's the next project on the schedule. Actually, it might not be too bad, as long as I: (1) fully understand the procedure, (2) take it slow and careful — there's no hurry, (3) be meticulous, and (4) take lots of photos. (Photos kinda come in handy when putting things back together, I've found.) Removal of old RMS: New RMS, ready to be seated: Tool in place: New RMS, seated : Supposedly, the tool actually seats the new seal in a slightly different place, to avoid wear from the old seal. Not surprisingly, I couldn't detect the difference.

You answered my question before I had a chance to ask. So it does seat in a slightly different depth! Very interesting, as the two I have had apart showed a light line where the seal rides, but not deep enough to feel it. Tough stuff!

See the rubber hose connected to the fuel rail? Note the crimp next to its metal sleeve. The hose got munched when they packed the engine for shipping. Haven't priced a replacement yet. I'm afraid to.

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To me that looks more like someone twisted the hose during installation. I can't see how packing would cause that, unless they put a banding strap over it. What's that hose for? Can't you pull one off your other engine?

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That's fuel return at the pressure regulator. It should be easy to pull from the old engine.

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That is a fuel line, I think the return. As suggested by piper... use the old one or: - has the kink really damaged the line? - if so a shop that deals in hydraulic equipment may be able to fix it for less than the Porsche part.

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That's exactly what they did — it was under one of two wide nylon ratchet straps, strapped tightly around the engine. The hose is the only casualty. All the other hoses, tubes, wiring looms, and connectors look almost new. I really have no complaint. Whoever pulled the engine took exceptional care to disconnect all hoses, etc., making sure they remained intact, rather than simply cutting them for expediency. Had they done that, I probably would have passed on this engine.

Quotes source post: 666671

Good suggestion, Grant. I'd like to straighten it, but I'd worry that the walls of the line were compromised. A hydraulic equipment shop could probably tell me definitively. I will look over the line on the old engine, as Al and 78F350 recommended. And I'll find out how much a new one costs — but I remember pricing the small plastic tube to the regeneration valve I replaced under the bank 2 intake manifold, and it made my hair stand on end. I ended up splicing in a short length of 5/16" rubber fuel line with hose clamps.

Talked to Pelican. They said Porsche calls it simply a "fuel hose," and Pelican would need to order it from Porsche. It's #8 in the exploded view below: The discounted price for a Genuine Porsche replacement through Pelican: $280. Seems a little high...

You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines: 1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose. 2. Clamps used on injector flex lines are not simple worm drive hose clamps, they are stainless steel fuel injector clamps:

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JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?

Quotes source post: 666690

It varies according to the amount of fuel being returned, but it could be as high as the full injector pressures, which is around 55 PSIG.

I'm not going to worry about the fuel line until after I get the cam chain rails* installed. I'm on the fourth day of a cold, so I haven't been out there much. I feel guilty about that. On the other hand, it has afforded me a chance to study videos about the procedure. *That seems to be what many of the sellers have dubbed them.

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Speaking of 350 cu in Chevy engines, last week I sold a TRW 350 rebuild kit I've been lugging around for years.

I think I've finally beaten my cold. It robbed me of two weeks I could have been working on the engine. However, I spent the time productively, studying how to replace the cam chain wear pads. Turns out the camshaft alignment/timing toolkit I borrowed from a generous forum member is the wrong kit for my 5-chain M96. The borrowed kit contains these tools: Here's the kit I need: Which means I'd better cough up $97.87 for the correct kit if I hope to get the car on the road before winter. I'm also ordering a few more parts for the procedure: cam chains (2) camshaft sprocket bolts (8) spark plug tubes (6) oil scavenger pump o-rings (2) camshaft plugs (3) I'll hold off on replacing the AOS and other parts until I finish installing the pads.

I ordered the cheap Chinese camshaft alignment/timing toolkit for $97.87. Sure, I could have shelled out $600 for Baum's (the gold standard) or an equivalently expensive kit from LN, both of which I'm sure are better quality. However, this will be a single-use kit for me (I hope). It might have a few small issues, too-long bolts and the like, but the main parts look solid, and I'm confident I have the wherewithal to get it working for this one job. Besides, I got nothin' against the Chinese. Hey, that's what Xi said! https://www.amazon.com/MAXWIN-Camshaft-Alignment-1998-2011-1996-2011/dp/B0BYSRZTDQ/

Question: What sealant do you folks use for the camshaft and sump covers? I've always been partial to Curil T2 ("Das Original") for those types of applications, and I have a brand-new tube on hand, but I figured I'd run it by you anyhow, on the off chance Porsche considers the use of Curil a capital offense (and I wouldn't put it past them ).

Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket

After studying all the videos, writeups, and advice I could find about timing the cams once the pads are installed I can state with conviction that there's a shipload of misinformation out there, and separating the wheat from the chaff is frustrating. Raby's video is great, but he glosses over some of the details. Once I figure out the procedure my palm will undoubtedly smack my forehead. "So THAT'S what they're trying to say." In the meantime, until my timing kit gets here, more studying.

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My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.

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Works well, easy to control application with the pressurized container and nozzle, Jake used to recommend this stuff as well.

JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?

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It is similar in performance to DreiBond, and a lot easier to find.

Gilles, I sent you a PM.

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JFP, where do you obtain your Loctite SI 5900? Amazon has only a 5-oz tube for $68.

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We get ours from a local auto parts store, if memory serves, about $17-18 per tube in a six tube case.

While waiting for the cam timing kit to arrive I figured I'd begin the process of dropping the old engine. After elevating the car on jack stands, I tried to put it in service mode, first making sure the parking brake was engaged and the relatively new battery was charged to the max. But nothing happened when I pressed the button. Nary even a click, buzz, or hum to be heard. The powered top was working properly back in September when I parked the car, but it ain't working now. "Fuse," I said to myself, "or relay." I removed the fuse panel cover to have a look. The little booklet thoughtfully provided under the cover indicated that B6 and D3 are the fuses for the convertible top: However, B6 also powers the turn signals and windows, both of which are functional, so if a fuse is the culprit it would have to be D3. The fuse panel layout: I couldn't help but note that the layout in the booklet doesn't seem to correspond to the panel's layout. The booklet shows five rows of fuses but the panel has six, including the row to the right of the spoiler switch. If the spoiler switch's row isn't relevant, is the top row's designation A or E? As for the relays, the convertible top's relay is supposedly a double relay. I read it, so it must be true. I'm guessing the largest relay in the photo is the one they're referring to: Hope some kind soul can clear up my confusion.

[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.] https://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/Fuse_booklet_217451088401745113202.jpg https://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/Relays17451092631745113223.jpg https://mca.pelicanparts.com/images/15_3_300_250_basicmaintenance.png

Yes, I figured that out, but thank you. Could you point out D3 on the panel itself? That's what I'm scratching my head about.

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[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.] https://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/Fuse_panel17451090991745120716.jpg

Much obliged, 78F350! That's exactly what I needed. I'll check that fuse, but it could easily be the relay instead. Relays get corroded. Tapping it on a hard surface like a pack of cigarettes often fixes the problem.

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This may sound stupid, but did you release the latch? I have another convertible with automatic latches, and when try to open the Boxster, I often forget to open the latch. It's a brief "WTF??" moment until I remember I have to unlatch it. And btw, that sixth row by the spoiler switch is for spare fuses.

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Fortunately, I had the presence of mind to release the latch above before I pressed the button. And I removed one of fuses from the sixth row, realized there were no contacts for it in the panel, and concluded they were spares. As for the missing fuses in the panel, mostly in row E, I assume those are for options my car is not equipped with. (BTW, I need to need to make sure all fuses are facing the same way, to keep my OCD at bay.) Thanks for chiming in, Al. That was actually an astute question. Sometimes the most obvious things are easy to overlook.

You mentioned engaging the parking brake - is the dash light for the e-brake too?

Quotes source post: 666924

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but the dash light is on when the parking brake is engaged, and off when it's not engaged. Which means the brake's microswitch is functional.

The 30 amp fuse at D3 looks fine. I removed the relay and tapped it on a hard surface to free up corroded internal contacts. Still no go. The total silence when the button is pressed is odd. I would think I'd hear a click, buzz, hum, or something . That's why I suspected a fuse or relay. The relay could still be bad, but I'm not sure how to check it with my multimeter.

Any chance that the motor for the top was disconnected while you were around the engine compartment? Here's the Pelican Parts DIY for top repair which may or may not be helpful: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair.htm Somewhere I've got a troubleshooting chart for the relay. It may be hidden in the Bentley Manual somewhere too. Here's a post from 997_986 that looks like it has the same procedure: https://986forum.com/forums/662149-post7.html Here's a picture of feral cat 'Handsome Dan'. He's very playful for a feral:

Quotes source post: 666931

Excellent question. But in the interest of expediency I'm taking another tack: I'll lower the top manually. Just as soon as I find out how to do it.

If you have a multimeter (or even a test light), I found this that 997_986 also posted: I recommend checking these points before you test it with a new relay... TROUBLESHOOTING ON THE RELAY CONTROLLER Note: Control relay disconnected. The terminal designation on the relay (Fig. 596_97) is from the underside of the control relay. 1. connect the measuring device (voltmeter) to terminal 22 (earth) and terminal 23 (plus 30) on the relay plate. Display = battery voltage 2. connect the measuring device to terminal 22 (earth) and terminal 26. Switch on the ignition. Display = battery voltage 3. connect the measuring device to terminal 23 (plus) and terminal 15 (handbrake applied). Display = battery voltage 4. connect the measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 16 (close soft top button). Press close button. Display = battery voltage 5. connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 17 (open soft top button). Press the open button. Display = battery voltage 6. convertible top locked . Connect measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 14 (microswitch wind frame). Display = battery voltage 7. convertible top locked . Connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 29 (microswitch B-pillar). Display = battery voltage 8. top unlocked. Connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 13 (microswitch closed, soft top compartment lid VDKD open). Display = battery voltage 9. convertible top unlocked . Connect the measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 19 (microswitch wind frame). Display = battery voltage Connect control relay to relay carrier. Open the soft top compartment lid and disconnect the electrical plug connection on the drive motor-top drive. 10. connect the positive of measuring device to terminal 1 (black cable) and the negative of measuring device to terminal 4 (green cable). Kl. 2 and Kl. 11. connect the positive of measuring device to terminal 4 (green cable) and the negative of measuring device to terminal 1 (black cable). Bridge terminals 2 and 3 with an auxiliary cable. Switch on the ignition and press the "Close" button. Display = battery voltage Btw, afaik from 2000 onwards there are only two microswitches, one in the lock and the other in the planetary gearbox. No microswitch on the bracket of the motor. The above, along with the diagram 78f350 gave you, will help you determine the health of the circuits and hopefully rule out either a mouse chewed out some wires or a bad relay. For example, if you get no voltage when you test the handbrake circuit (test #3), but you have a handbrake light on the dash then you know the switch is fine, but there's a break in the wire before the relay. I have to admit, test #10 has me puzzled as I don't know what they mean by "KI. 2 and KI." But the other tests seem straightforward.

OOPS. Sorry, 78F450. I just saw that you posted a link to the same diagnostic procedure.

I'm shelving the issue with the insubordinate top mechanism for a while, because my cam timing kit arrived today. It's much larger and heavier than the IMS kits. I'm very pleased with the quality of the Chinese parts. Not sure what those long tools are used for, but I don't think I'll be using them during this procedure. Perhaps someone can shed some light on their function. Tomorrow I'm going to press this kit into service. Putting the top in service mode can wait until the new pads are installed and the cams are timed. Lexi, my Jack Russell Terrier, is eyeballing the kit with skepticism in the photo, but I think it's well worth $97.

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Awww Lexi! Never underestimate a dog's intuition!

The long white nylon tool is used to insert the pistons circlip during assembly

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I'll take your word for it. It's unlikely I'll ever have to try it out. As for the other tool, the black tube is metal.

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The long white nylon tool is used to align the connecting rods with the piston pin openings in the pistons before the black metal tool is used to insert the piston pin retaining clips.

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Thanks, JFP. They probably won't get any use unless I loan the kit. Here's another question for you: I removed the three chain tensioners during the IMS installation and I haven't put them back. I haven't seen it explicitly stated, but I figured I should hold off reinstalling them until after the new cam chain pads are in place, during the timing procedure. Correct?.

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Leave them out until everything is back together and you are read to do cam allocation.

Quotes source post: 666963

That's what I thought. Thanks for confirming.

I have everything I need to begin replacing the cam chain wear pads — except for one necessary item, the Porsche Special Tool 9632, to compress the VarioCam solenoid for removal and installation of the camshafts. You'd think it would be included in the camshaft timing kit like the one I bought, but you'd be wrong. Pelican and LN do not sell them individually, so I searched and found this: https://funaheadtv.com/products/porsche-special-tool-9632 Beginning in 2000, the tool has left-hand threads. $36 for a threaded rod, whether left or right-hand threads, seems like highway robbery, but I'll bet one from Porsche is many times that. Unless someone has a better source for the tool, I guess I'll order it from them.

Porsche only sell the tool with the Vario Cam actuator, not separately.

Quotes source post: 666973

First, correct me if I'm wrong, because I've never done these. But it seems you need to compress B and C together. And B itself, is not threaded at all, otherwise how would you get the unthreaded part of the tool through there? So, you screw the tool into C, run the nut down on B which either pushes B down towards C or pulls C up towards B, or both. Right? Why can't you find out the the thread size of C is (probably M6 or M8, can't tell by the pics) measure the distance between B and C and get either a piece of allthread a few inches longer (like the tool) or even a bolt and a nut?

Quotes source post: 666974

How many variocam actuators did you buy over the years? Just curious.

OK so I found this video where a guy makes his own variocam tool, but buying everything doesn't seem to be worth it. However, he did tell us the size and pitch of the thread: M5 x 0.8 It's worth lookng at the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygSKeRW5F2U Then I found a source for LEFT HAND M5-0.8 allthread, but longest they have 10CM. Is that long enough? I don't know. $13.04 Each. https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-threaded-bars/409371-HTBL-M5-1000-A4?google_shopping=1&c=2&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADI7_w57vz2S-a5EuY8ShHnKa0XBa&gclid=CjwKCAjwn6LABhBSEiwAsNJrjqzn0v3UBW_rck_eByir Phj6HkeKNTvzkQTYQLJGmKplfkA7lzsy6xoCM6AQAvD_BwE Lastly, you'll need left-hand M5 nuts, the same place as above sells them: (Doesn't spec pitch size, so you may want to contact them and ask.) $1.41 Each. https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-hex-nuts/73115-HPNL-M5-A2

Quotes source post: 666975

I'm looking forward to JFP's or another guru's reply to Al's question, because I wondered the same thing. By the way, I've read that some folks have used a heavy-duty pull tie to compress the solenoid, but I also read a scare story about the pull tie failing and the solenoid snapping back with tremendous force.

I found this at Grainger for $5.67! 1 Meter long! You can cut it to whatever size you want. Just taper off the cut end on your new grinder to grind off the damaged part of the thread so you can get a nut on it. Or you can run a nut in from the factory cut end and out the end that you cut to chase the threads. https://www.grainger.com/product/Fully-Threaded-Rod-M5x0-8-38DK86 And the sell left-hand nuts for $1.61 for a bag of 50. https://www.grainger.com/product/Hex-Nut-M5-0-80-Thread-22YK31 There's a Grainger in Portland, if it's not far from you. They don't stock it, so you'll have to get it shipped to you or the store for pickup. P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

Quotes source post: 666980

You're very welcome, Al. Be sure to open the box.

Or you can just buy a Genuine Porsche tensioner from Pelican Parts for the low, low price of $1297.91 with the tool already installed! 🤣😁🤣😁 https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610505359.htm?pn=996-105-053-59-OEM&bc=c&SVSVSI=0787

Quotes source post: 666980

Good sleuthing, Al. Alas, I ordered the tool from FunAhead, and it will be here in three days. But I don't see why the rod from Grainger wouldn't do the job after a some modifying. I definitely would have tried it, but I'm feeling the press of time — the folks who own the place I'm renting are putting it up for sale, so I have to finish this engine and get it in the car.

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Dang! I wonder if it's too late to cancel the order at FunAhead...

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Understood. Maybe you can post the length of the tool once you get it. It could help someone who wants to make their own. We already know the diameter and thread pitch. I'm guessing 10 to 13CM or 4-5 inches will do the trick.

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I would be surprised if Grant hasn't already fabricated one. How about it, Grant?

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Have you been spying on me? Actually, on the first engine I did I was rather naughty, I just used a tap to change the threaded hole to take a standard right-hand SAE bolt, see post #9 here, https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/80969-going-through-my-original-engine.html I then thought about using a smaller bolt that would pass through the threaded hole, with nuts at both ends to accomplish the same thing. Finally I bought a left-hand die and and some bronze rod and made a couple of tools. It was not easy and not one of my great tool making moments... I thought I had documented it somewhere but can't find it. It is also possible to use a clamp to compress the tensioner, which I tried the first time round, but the clamp tends to slip off the tangs.

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I'd have to check the records, but off hand probably a few dozen.

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Amazon also sell the rod, in stainless steel, and the fastners; the rod alone was seven dollars and change.

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I watched the video in which you mentioned you had retapped the tensioner to convert it to right-hand threads. That probably wouldn't occur to me, but as always I admired your ingenuity. I showed a couple videos in which you made some tools to a metal fabricator I know and he said, "Give that guy a metal lathe and other equipment and there's probably nothing he couldn't make."

Quotes source post: 666991

More power to you. I've seen videos of these engines tron down and all I can say is, "Were those German engineers just out to **************** with us??"

I've been around Porsche's and other "exotics" for more years than I care to mention. They all have their mechanical idiosyncrasies and outright engineering oddities; it just comes with the turf.........

Quotes source post: 666996

I know I should never say never, but if I'll do any more extensive engine work, it will be on a Subaru ej25. So much easier. About 2 years ago, I had some breakfast then drove my Subaru to the shop, pulled the engine, had some pizza for lunch, installed an engine that I had prepared in advance with new head gaskets and a timing belt, then drove the car home for dinner. All hand tools, and the car on ramps. My tenant was using the lifts. Even doing the head gaskets and the timing belt on those things is a breeze. My brother's friend is a lot like you. He has a shop and they only work on foreign and Exotics.

This is where I'm at at this stage. It's as far as I can go without Special Tool 9632 to compress the VarioCam solenoid. (Actually, I could remove the cams and set them on the workbench, but I couldn't do anything with them without the compression tool.) I also need bolts for the camshaft retainer tool, since bolts don't come with the kit. I assumed I could use a couple 10mm cam cover bolts, but they're too short. At this point I can't detect any wear at all on this pad. In fact, it looks almost brand new.

Quotes source post: 666996

Other marques do have their own idiosyncrasies. Take my '98 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD (which I bought new and has only 47,000 miles on it). The starter solenoid began acting up with click-click-click syndrome. Once the starter's out, rebuilding the solenoid with new contacts and plunger takes about fifteen minutes. However, getting to the starter on 4WD Isuzus is a nightmare. To get enough clearance, one must either unbolt an exhaust header from the manifold or unbolt a motor mount and raise the driver's side of the engine. I chose to raise the engine, because there was too much risk of twisting off a manifold stud and then spending an hour or more under there with an EZ-Out. Not my idea of fun. Even with the engine raised there wasn't a heck of a lot of clearance, but I managed. During the whole process I swore at Isuzu's design engineers. I did. I cursed them soundly. Still, for pure aggravation, Porsche gets my vote.

The pads in this engine are made of a brown material, which I understood is the new, improved material, replacing black pads made of the softer, more wear-prone material. That, and the apparent lack of wear, leads me to wonder whether they've been replaced. I didn't see any signs that someone's been in there before, but perhaps they were extremely careful.

I had another look at the pad through a lighted magnifying glass and still couldn't see much wear when I pushed the chain aside. Wish I could see the bottom pad, because they generally have more wear than the top pad. As long as I'm wishing, I also wish I knew if the engine had any cam deviation. If indeed the pads are the newer type and have almost no wear, it wouldn't make sense to replace them. I guess the only way to know for sure is to pull the cams and have a closer look. If the pads are fine I'll stick the cams back in and leave bank 2 alone.

JFP and other folks who've done this procedure, do you see anything wrong with my reasoning in my last two posts?

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My only comment would be that you have come this far, you have the tools and the new parts, and the engine is out and accessible; this is the time to do any and all of the maintenance that becomes a real pain when the engine is back in the car, which could also eliminate any regrets later.

Quotes source post: 667007

Here is a slightly fuzzy picture of the pads from my 3.2 S engine, You will notice that one is almost like new and the other, on the right side, is worn to the point where the roller part of the chain is wearing away the pad between the lines where the links run. All the pads I've changed are this colour, like yours, and the new pads are more beige/white colour.

Apart from the pads, since now you have good access to these parts, I would carefully inspect the variocam units for rubber debris coming from the internal O-rings. They tend to fail in cars been sitting for a long time. You can take the solenoid off, pull the small piston out and look in there with a flash light. If you end up removing the camshafts to see the lower pads you can also test the variocam by blowing air into it and see how it operates. Good luck!

The cam retainer is now retaining the cams, with the help of a couple 10mm M6 bolts.

Quotes source post: 667024

Thanks, Grant. The solenoid compressor tool is supposed to arrive tomorrow and then I'll take the cams out, remove the pads, and snap a photo of them. The new pads are a lighter color, as you point out. I note the pads from your 3.2L engine look almost black.

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Appreciate the suggestions, Homeoboxter. I bought a couple o-rings for the VarioCams on JFP's advice. Are those the internal o-rings you're referring to?

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I can't argue with that. So far, I've followed your advice to the letter, including springing for the Solution (even though I kicked and screamed about it). As a result, I'll have the best 986 in the poorhouse!

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No problem. Not sure which O-rings JFP suggested, I meant the internal O-ring within the variocam unit that disintegrates over time scattering green rubber debris all around the engine. If you dropped the sump, inspected the oil filter and found no signs of this, probably you are good to go. Just keep an eye for it because if it started to fail this is a good time to service it. These O-rings are over 20 years old and have gotten brittle by now. As far as I know they usually fail in cars that are not used for years perhaps because they get dried out... Check out this thread: https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/77949-green-rubber-2.html

Quotes source post: 667030

Maybe they were seals, rather than o-rings. The parts are out in the shop. I'll look tomorrow.

A little Sunday interlude to discuss raising the car. Problem: My supposedly low-profile floor jack isn't quite low profile enough to fit under either the front or back, a common and aggravating problem. My makeshift fix has been to run the car up on two 2x8s under each wheel. They provide enough clearance for the floor jack, but wood tends to slide on concrete, a PITA. Solution: these ramps at $27.69 per pair: https://www.amazon.com/MAXXHAUL-50699-Capacity-Profile-2-Count/dp/B0BMQYKLYJ/ The maximum height for my four jack stands is 19.5", which raises the car high enough to work underneath without it being claustrophobically tight. That will have to do until I can get a 2-post lift: https://www.amazon.com/APlusLift-HW-9KFL-000LB-2-Post-Floor/dp/B07F6591TR/ And then what a happy world this will be!

The bank 1 cams are out. Removal was easy and, for the most part, peasy. The exhaust cam lifters wanted to slide out, but I had a helper standing by to prevent it. I removed the lifters one by one and arranged them in order on the worktable. The cam caps and all the bolts are in labeled baggies. Without the compression tool to loosen the cam chain I can't inspect the condition of the bottom pad, but the top pad is more accessible and looks almost new. So there you have it.

Just Curious: How many miles are on that engine?

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Big advantage of an engine stand is that you turn the engine 90degrees so you are working with cylinders vertical and things don't fall out of the head!

Quotes source post: 667037

39,901. Compared to 155,297 on the original engine. I was at Safeway a while back and met a guy with a '99 that had over 300,000 miles on the clock. It was still running strong, he said, and it sounded good to me.

Quotes source post: 667038

Yes, an engine stand would be just the ticket. I've used them before and they're great. Can't justify buying one, though, because I'm close to finishing the engine. After that I'm hoping I'll have no need for one for a long, long time. By the way, Grant, I'd like to check out your procedures for dropping an engine and putting one back in. How many times have you done that?

Congratulations, your project is moving along pretty good! :-) I was away for a few days and it was a nice surprise to see the cams on your workbench! A while ago, I bought a cheap engine stand from Harbor Freight that I used it on the X1/9 (Fiat) and also on the Alfa Milano engines, but never use it on the 987 (never had the need, as it supposed to require an adaptor for the M96/97 that costs way more than the engine stand.. lol

I used a stand when I disassembled one, but it was tough getting the IMS out because of the bolt pattern. I have since seen pictures of them being used with the M96 but couldn't tell if they were using the special mount or just had better bolt positioning. LoneWolfGal: it is remarkably easy to remove and install the engine--if you have a lift. With my now-1000-miles-away two-post, I just disconnected everything and lifted the car off the engine and trans. Just reverse to replace--and watch that e-brake cable! I have done it 4 times, all but one by myself. It is remarkably easy if you do it in unit with the transmission.

Quotes source post: 667040

Like Newsguy in the previous post I have done four swaps. Since I have Quickjacks that have a lift height that leaves a bit to be desired I have worked out a complicated way to get the engine out. As I understand it you are using jackstands so the easiest way is to drop the engine and transmission then use the engine hoist to lift the rear of the rear of the car enough to pull the engine out. As Newsguy says, "I just disconnected everything and lifted the car off the engine and trans... and watch that e-brake cable!" I haven't done it this way but one thing I would watch out for is that the front of the car can rotate on the jackstands as the rear is lifted, without slipping off them. I prefer to remove the engine and transmission together, mainly because separating the engine and transmission and reconnecting them is a lot easier out of the car than under it.

Thanks, guys. I'll definitely drop the engine and transmission as a unit (despite naively stating in an early post that I wanted to leave the transmission in, like I've done with conventional engines). I planned to drop the engine onto a low-profile dolly, but I've gotten the impression that, even if I remove the rear bumper cover and muffler (and fuel tank?), I'll still need more clearance to get the engine out. Bummer. What lift point would I use to lift the rear end of the car with a hoist? I have chains and a couple of beefy ratchet straps at my disposal. I've been studying the chapter about engine removal in 101 Projects , which has a fairly comprehensive step-by-step how-to for disconnecting stuff in the engine compartment and underneath the car. I thought I'd compare it with other folks' procedures, as belt and suspenders. I also have the service manual. The videos I've watched tend to be superficial, skipping over lots of important stuff. Maybe I haven't found the right video yet. Newsguy, I salivate when I look at 2-post lifts. It's a must-have tool. Someday...

The easiest way is to remove the rear bumper cover and muffler, the fuel tank is in the front of the car so you can leave that alone

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D'OH!. I mixed it up with my Isuzu after being under it recently to fix the starter. What about my muffler bearings, think I need to replace them?

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Those are wear items and a definite "while you're there" must! I think LN makes a "Solution" for them, too.

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No, but be sure to buy some high compression floor mats and refill your blinker fluid......

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The new LN environmentally friendly muffler bearing:

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And look at that craftsmanship! I'm sold!

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This is the kind of next-level technical support that makes this forum what it is!

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If the bumper cover is off you can use the bumper or the bumper mounting points... I think. I used the Pelican instructions, the Bentley book and my own list that I revise every time I do an engine. Here are links to my instructions on Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ss2dbwsi1tlsvjvxaddik/Engine-Transmission-attach-and-verify-list.odt?rlkey=ms3vlhjb0ak51n1my6ebfpu9p&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/12j4u0qhvvhmvlv19zhfo/Engine-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=occnpqnq3dez5ic7mcvqy3awa&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ptqvt6ya9b71i4xt06z1k/Notes-on-checklists.odt?rlkey=8zliunz2x4yolvung6isqqux7&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4tazjtr9sj3ndlz3n8eo9/Transmission-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=xit5tht6b1kh5uji7bedze33p&dl=0

Got the compression tool this afternoon. Never one to work on something out in the shop when I can work on it inside in front of the TV and near snacks, I brought the cams in for the procedure. I ran into a problem right off the bat: My deep socket set only goes down to 9mm. I needed an 8mm, so I pressed an 8mm box-end wrench into service. It worked well until pressure caused the nylon washer under the nut to bulge, to the point where I can't get the wrench on it. If I had an 8mm deep socket I could probably bear down on it enough to seat the socket on the nut. As to why the washer accompanying the nut is made of nylon instead of brass or steel, that's a good question. Only two solutions to the problem, as I see it: (1) scare up an 8mm deep socket somewhere, or (2) use a metal washer under the nut. I lean toward (2), unless there's a compelling reason why I shouldn't. I invite your input. Also, it's amazing how ingrained right-hand thread operation is. A half-dozen times I caught myself turning it clockwise with the intention of tightening it and groaning when I noticed the nut was traveling up the rod instead of down. When I consciously turned the nut counterclockwise to tighten it, it felt... wrong. And weird . I suppose I'd get over it after a year or two, three years at most, of working with left-hand threads.

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Grant, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks so much!

Quotes source post: 667062

You're welcome. I should mention that there are points where the instructions lack clarity, especially because I did separate instructions for the engine and the transmission, so the cross over from one to the other needs some thinking. Also there are several references to my specific situation which do not apply to everyone (re: Quickjacks for instance). I did try to name the tools necessary at each step so you can roll under the car with everything you need. I would like to add to my garage a permanent helper who would run and get me that 11mm socket that I forgot before installing myself under the middle of the car on the creeper.

Unless I hear a "Don't do it," I'm going to find a small metal washer to use under the compression tool's nut instead of the nylon washer. I'd like to get those new pads in while I'm still young (relatively speaking).

Quotes source post: 667071

Do it. It won't harm anything except maybe mar the surface a little, but it won't affect the tensioner or chain's function in any way. It seems to me like that hole has only one purpose, anyway, and that's for the tool. Maybe put a little oil between the washer and the nut.

Quotes source post: 667076

Thanks, Al. A friend is coming over later with his flat washer assortment, since I don't have any washers that small. And oil is a good idea.

The work stoppage caused by a small flat washer didn't catch me by surprise. By now, I've come to expect it. It's a Porsche, after all. I'm used to having the wackiest stuff happen, things that made me cock my head to the side like a dog listening to an ultrasonic whistle. Don't get me wrong, I love the car. I especially appreciate how it handles. I've had 911 owners sneer at it, as they are inclined to do, but they blow a fuse when I suggest that the mid-engine design gives my 986 superior weight distribution and more predictable handling than a 911. They don't like that one bit. Not that I wouldn't have a 911. (Or ideally, an all-wheel-drive 959, which has the same rear-engine form factor.) However, I'm totally satisfied with my 986. I figure encountering oddball stuff while working on it is part of the cost of owning it.

After I obtained the metal washer for the compression tool I managed to get the VarioCam out — not without some difficulty, but any victory's a good victory. The bottom pad indeed had considerable wear, no doubt enough to cause some cam deviation: I snapped the new pads into place (after carefully inserting the o-ring under the bottom pad). Note the new material's lighter color. After an hour of trying to reinstall the VarioCam between the camshafts without success, I tightened the compression tool's nut a few more turns (using my little box-end wrench) to get a bit more clearance. However, the nut didn't seem to be moving on the rod. So I removed the tool, and then I saw the reason why — the threads had stripped. The compression tool seems to have been made of soft metal. You can see the spot about 3/4" from the end where the threads are flattened. The nut just spins at that point. Addendum: I was using a small 8mm box-end wrench, not a ratchet, and it didn't take all that much force to tighten the nut. I've stripped threads before and it usually requires considerable force, unless the metal's soft. I'm going to contact the aftermarket parts company's customer service department and see what they have to say about it. Surprise! Yet another oddball work stoppage! And the $36 I paid for the compression tool is down the drain. That's bad enough, but I'm dead in the water until I get another compression tool. Time lost. I was crossing my fingers that things would go smoothly from here on in, because I'm working under a time crunch: I need to have the car on the road by the end of May, because the owners of the house I'm renting are putting it on the market. I bought another house, but I hoped to finish the car here and drive it to my new place. The logistics of moving a half-finished car and another engine would be a nightmare. I will overcome this latest wacko problem somehow, but in the meantime I say, damn, damn, double-damn hell !

Post mortem : The most likely way thread damage could occur in the middle of the rod is by tightening it to the limit of compression and then continuing to tighten it. But I was aware of the warnings not to overtighten it or risk breaking something on the VarioCam. I estimated the unit was compressed no more than 90 percent, judging by the tautness of my chain compared with the laxity of chains in videos I've seen. If I had reached the compression limit, I'd think I would have felt some resistance, more than when just tightening the nut. Perhaps the progressively increasing force required to tighten it was just too much for soft threads to handle and they gave out. That said, I have to acknowledge the possibility that I overtightened it, despite being very careful not to. Regardless of the cause, I'm going to need another compression tool. First, I'll see what the company that sold me this one has to say.

More proof the compression tool was made of soft metal and therefore the defendant is not just a careless idiot who overtightens things. If it please the Court, I present the following photograph as Exhibit 1: Note the 6mm wide, 1mm deep channel in the shaft near the threads. The nut was full of metal bits from the damaged threads and therefore difficult to turn, so the defendant used a pair of small vice grips to hold the shaft. Apparently, the vice grips weren't cinched down enough, so they carved the channel during a single rotation of the shaft. A channel of this depth could not be created so quickly unless the metal was soft. And so, ladies and gentlemen of the jury, I submit to you that this entire fiasco resulted from too-soft metal and therefore LoneWolfGal is innocent of boneheaded workmanship. The defense rests.

I located some left-hand threaded rod, M5x0.8 thread size, at Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/threaded-rods-studs/fully-threaded-rods-studs?searchQuery=Left-hand+threaded+Rod%3A+M5x0.8+Thread+Size&sst=4&searchBar=true&tier=Tier+4 One problem: They're closed on Saturday and late afternoon Portland traffic is suicidal, so it will have to wait until Monday. In the meantime I'll try to figure out how to open the convertible top manually so I can put the car into service mode.

For future reference, it is always a good idea to lubricate the threads on devices like this to reduce galling and stripping of the threads. When this tool is cranked down, there is a considerable load on the threaded areas as the tool is by design necessity smaller than it should be for the load on it. Any decent lube will do; penetrating oil, engine oil, whatever you have. I personally favor ARP's Ultra Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant, which we use extensively, but you could even get away using anti seize compound to both protect the treads and make torquing easier and more accurate.

Quotes source post: 667107

I did use a dab of engine oil that was clinging to the outside of the VarioCam to lubricate the threads, but I wish I'd had some of that ARP Ultra-Torque product. I'll pick some up. I used to have some anti-seize compound but it got lost in the shuffle.

Quotes source post: 667106

I was wondering if you were going back to the place you originally got the tool or get the Grainger allthread I told you about. It looks like Grainger's may be a harder metal. At least it's steel. Get a new left-handed nut. Grainger sells a bag of 50 for $1.61. https://www.grainger.com/product/Hex-Nut-M5-0-80-Thread-22YK31 I imagine they are not high demand parts, so I'd make sure they have them in stock before driving all that way. You may have to order them in advance. Still, it makes me wonder how the guy whose video I posted got away with using a modified aluminum rod. Regardless, good luck. I hope you get past this without any more troubles and you have smooth sailing the rest of the build.

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I'm definitely going to contact the company that sold me the tool and express my dissatisfaction. But before that, I'll let my friend the metal fabricator have a look at it, get his take. Thanks for pointing me to Grainger; that was a good call. Their threaded rod has a tensile strength of 55,000. Wish I knew the tensile strength of the one I bought. Grainger's rod is one meter in length, so I could make ten 10cm-long compression tools out of it! Then I can dole them out to folks who are attempting the same procedure, along with a prayer book.

Update from Grainger: May 13 wouldn't work for me. Unless...while waiting for it to be delivered I could drop the original engine. And if the rod still hasn't been delivered I could unbolt the transmission and bolt it on the new engine with a new clutchplate and throwout bearing. Which reminds me, are M96 flywheel bolts single use only? Haven't seen any references.

Quotes source post: 667115

Maybe this place can get them to you faster? https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-threaded-bars/409371-HTBL-M5-1000-A4?google_shopping=1&c=2&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADI7_w57vz2S-a5EuY8ShHnKa0XBa&gclid=CjwKCAjwn6LABhBSEiwAsNJrjqzn0v3UBW_rck_eByir Phj6HkeKNTvzkQTYQLJGmKplfkA7lzsy6xoCM6AQAvD_BwE They are pricier, and 10cm long instead of 1 meter, but if they get to you in a better time... They also sell new nuts, which I strongly recommend. I just checked their site and standard shipping is 5 days, expeess is 3 days. But then you only get one shot and if it strips out, you're back to square 1. I think going with Grainger and pulling the engine out while you're waiting may be your best bet

We never reuse either pressure plate or flywheel bolts, they are not that expensive and typically under high loads in use, plus the flywheel bolts are torque to yeild (torque spec + additonal angle) which automaitcally precludes reuse. Amazon list the threaded rod with one day delivery: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H6J4D3/?coliid=ISRITT0IKCK3V&colid=2HC5QQFJX9KXZ&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it uxcell M5 Fully Threaded Rod, 304 Stainless Steel, 250mm Length, 0.8mm Thread Pitch, Left Hand Threads

Quotes source post: 667116

Great sleuthing, Al. I like Accu's product better than Grainger's. For one thing, they're stainless steel. For another, left-hand nuts, according to the customer service representative I talked with, are not available from Grainger, which is odd. I ordered a stainless rod and hex nut from Accu, shipping via FedEx. Delivery date is also 5/13, so I'm no worse off.

Quotes source post: 667118

Appreciate the info. I ordered new bolts for the pressure plate and flywheel. I went with Accu instead of Amazon for the rod and nut, chiefly because Accu's hex nuts are stainless steel, whereas Amazon's are carbon steel.

JFP, I'll take a wild stab — you install only Genuine Porsche clutch plates and throwout bearings? Myself, I'll have to go with aftermarket, due to budget constraints. Are there any aftermarket clutch parts you recommend? I'm guessing in your shop you go the whole nine yards — new flywheel and pressure plate. Wish I could, but again, I don't want to have to move to the poorhouse.

We have had excellent results with the factory parts and generally only use them unless the customer request something special, only then if we think their choice is not going to lead to problems. We replace the disc, pressure plate, all bolts, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing in a standard replacement. The flywheel only gets replaced if it is either severely heat checked or fails the factory "twist test" for the dual mass assembly.

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Hello, I am really hoping someone could measure the distance from the engine/bellhousing flange to the flywheel friction surface on the M96 (I believe this measurement is the same on all variants) Should be about 50mm. be accurate to the mm.

I suspect a number of folks who hang out here have bought aftermarket clutch parts. Those who have, do you have any recommendations?

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I have used the EPS disk on two cars, good price, no complaints. https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/power-friction-clutch-disc ... with the new bolts, used flywheel and pressure plate.

I couldn't stop fiddling with the cams while waiting for the replacement compression tool to arrive, and I was struck by a Grant Hargraveish idea. First, I used a carpenter's clamp positioned on the new pads to fully compress the VarioCam. (And a C-clamp would have worked just as well, but I didn't have one large enough on hand.) Next, I threaded a heavy-duty pull tie through the holes for the compression tool and pulled it tight to keep the device compressed. Then I removed the clamp. The chain fit over the pads with hardly any trouble. Last, I snipped the pull tie and removed it. Only one hitch, and I'm not sure it's a problem. I carefully kept the lighter-color chain links mated to the divots in the sprockets so that the cams would be in time with each other. I wanted to keep them both at 12 o'clock (while they were on the table). However, during the manipulation necessary to get the chain in place over the pads the cams rotated a teeny bit, to 1 o'clock, enough so the intake cam's link and divot are slightly apart, even though they're still lined up (see photo 2). I should have checked that before I snipped the pull-tie, because the cams can't be rotated without compressing the pads again. My question is, is it necessary to correct the problem so that both cams' links and divots are at 12 o'clock before they're installed in the head? Or can the cams be rotated slightly by hand after they're installed, with the cam tool inserted into the ends of the cams, the cam retainer loosely bolted in place, and before the double chain's sprocket is bolted to the exhaust cam? The clamp/pull-tie method certainly works, but I'm going to wait until I have the compression tool to do bank 2's cams, so I can get my money's worth out of it.

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LOL Not original though, I think this is suggested in the Pelican instructions. I don't have a spare engine at the moment (just sold it) so I am trying to visualise this. My understanding is the following... WIth the crank at TDC for the cylinder bank in question and the slot in the end of the exhaust cam parallel with the valve cover mating surface (and/or - the cam tool installed in the ends of the cams) that cam is properly positioned. Positioning the second cam is a product of the number of chain links between the divots as you call them. You can simply count the links... or use the coloured links... or both. If I remember correctly with the compression bolt in place you can even reposition the cam sprockets vis-a-vis one another. You can move the cams once they are installed in the head before installing the cam tool and attaching the sprocket for the timing chain. With the cam tool installed in the ends of the cams nothing will move, but the divot for the exhaust cam is by definition in the right place. With the divots properly placed the slot in the end of the intake cam should be properly aligned also. Hope this is clearer for the reader than it is for the writer.

Thanks, Grant. This is an esoteric process and difficult to describe clearly. By "cam tool," I was referring to the tool on the right, which fits into the ends of the cams without locking their rotation but prevents them from falling out. By "cam retainer," I meant the tool on the left, which also keeps the cams from falling out. The lighter-color links are seven links apart and were paired with the divots on the sprockets. So even if the cams rotated a bit during the process of fitting the chain over the pads, it would only matter if the chain jumped a tooth and a lighter link was no longer lined up with its divot. Also, it's my understanding that, once they're loosely held in place by these tools, the cams can be rotated by hand if necessary to line up the slot.

I picked up some of this stuff, on JFP's recommendation: "ARP 100-9909 Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant - 1.69 oz. Fluid Squeeze Tube." $13.99 at Amazon. I will of course use it on the compression tool, but it seems to me most fasteners used in the engine would benefit from it. What about flywheel and pressure plate* bolts? Cam cover and sump cover? Cam caps? *By the way, I've decided to replace the pressure plate along with the clutch disc and throwout bearing. I had intended to replace only the disc and bearing, but I've come around to the idea that I'd be crazy not to put in a new pressure plate while I'm at it.

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Definitely not the pressure plate and flywheel bolts. If it's like most other cars, you'll want loctite or some other thread locker for those bolts. Assembly lube would have the opposite effect.

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Almost, but not quite. You definitely want a dot of blue Loctite on the threads of both the pressure plate and flywheel bolts, but a coating of this product underneath the heads of the flywheel bolts makes cranking them to their final +90 degrees after torquing one heck of a lot easier.....

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True, but it seems she was talking about lubing the bolts the same way she would lube the compression tool, given she said she bought the product you suggested to lube the threads of the tool, as you suggested. Now, putting a dab of assembly lube on the inside head of the bolt where it contacts the flywheel and the pressure plate,is definitely a good idea for proper torqueing. But you certainly do not want that on the threads.

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Makes sense. Also, you've convinced me that, after sparing no expense on the IMS bearing, I'd be nuts not to cough up a couple hundred more for factory clutch parts. I keep imagining the clutch giving out on some godforsaken stretch of road and wishing I had.

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The ARP lube is used on a wide variety of fasteners, like head bolts/studs, crank carrier bolts, etc. to get optimum torque readings and clamping loads. If you go to the ARP website, they have a very interesting "white paper" comparing clamping loads, and actual vs indicated torque readings both with and without the use of fastener lubricants.

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I always encourage people to never "cheap out" on projects like this as the labor involved in going back in to undo the corner cutting is worth more than you actually saved in the first place. And to those who would respond, "I'll be doing it myself so there is no labor cost....", yes, there is is what acountants would call "opportunity costs", the value of what you would be doing otherwise if you weren't back under the car again. Do it right, do it once......

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When the Porsche engineers specified a certain torque, was that with or without ARP lube? If ARP makes such a big difference, will you get the actual clamping force the engineers intended or, since ARP makes it easier, more clamping force than intended? Just a thought. Yes, you want a little Lube on the bolts so they don't bind and "creak" when you torque them down, because if they do you won't get the true torque and less clamping force than intended. Would using ARP have the opposite? I noticed that the label says it's "specifically designed for ARP fastener preload specs."

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That has been an internet argument for years. Running my own business, as well as building race cars and engines for various racing venues over several decades, I am super critical about two things when it comes to torque specs: accuracy and reproducability. From everything I have read, and what I have learned myself, sometimes at considerable expense, a lubricated fastener will both attain the correct clamping force, and that clamping force can be accurately be repeated as necessary. Now that thread lubrication can come in many forms: thread locker, anti seize, or simple lubricant; all will provide some level of lubrication during assembly, and not all will provide the same degree of lubrication, but all provide some level, which is the improtant point. In their white paper, ARP discussed at length about finding both erradic and lower clamping pressure than desired when threads were assembled dry and torqued to a given spec, and higher and vastly more consistent clamping pressure when the treads were lubricated and torqued to the same value. Yes, I have read, and often laughed at, internet stories about people having their wheels fall off because they use anti seize on the lug threads. Anti seize on the lugs both prevent thread galling over time, and incorrectly torqueing the fasteners. I litterally have no idea how many cars we have running around with anti seize on the wheel lugs, but I can tell you that none ever came back because either the wheel fell off or was damaged by excessive torque. Same can be said about engines we either worked on or built for customers. I can tell you that I have seen brand new and very expensive engine cases that demonstrated unequal drag when simply threading in new bolts or studs with my fingers. This one of many reasons why we always "chase" every threaded opening in an engine case before assembly, and use a small dab of ARP thread lubricant when assembling. Consistency matters.

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Thanks, Al. I've used Loctite on conventional engines' flywheels and pressure plates, but I've learned not to make assumptions when it comes to Porsche's flat six, so I included them in the list. You and others on the forum are an indispensable source of knowledge about this engine. Thanks to your kind assistance, I will definitely have the best 986 in the poorhouse!

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And poorhouse be damned, I say!

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This is what I love about forums (forii?) like this where people can share their experiences, albeit some more extensive than others. I can't speak for anti-seize on lug nuts, because I never used it and never will. And I may not have much experience on porsches, but I have some experience on Subarus. And on the only two occasions where I used assembly Lube on head bolt threads I had to redo each of them within a year. One was a personal vehicle and the other one was a friend's vehicle, and both times the head bolts came off extremely easily. Was it a coincidence? I don't think so. They either came loose or I over torqued them beyond their limit. They are torque to yield bolts where you turn them of total of 180° Beyond a specified torque. Whatever happened, I'm never going to use assembly Lube on the threads again. Chase them, of course, if they feel like they're binding, and make sure the threads are clean, but no more assembly Lube for me..

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A personal choice............... There are also several articles that list potential reasons why Subaru head bolts are known to come loose, running from the head gaskets themselves, weak or incorrect bolts that fatigue, to incorrect tightening sequences, and even mention lack of lubrication causing the bolts to bind during installation, leading to lower than expected clamping, not unlike what is described in the ARP white paper. The problems seems well recognized, if not fully studied.

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Though it is more than coincidental that the only 2 I used assembly lube on were the only two I did (of about 20 or 25) that failed. And of all the ones I did, I've never seen loose head bolts when I tore them down. (besides those two) If the bolts creak or bind, I take them all out and clean them again, along with the holes. If it works for you, lube them. More power to you. I won't. And I sure as hell won't put anti-seize on my lugs.

Like I said, yours is a personal choice. Interestingly, the factory recommends lubrication for Subaru head bolts..............

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I'd be interested in seeing where they recommend using assembly Lube. Oil maybe, but I've never seen them recommend assembly lube. And Subaru doesn't use Loctite on their head bolts. Oil would defeat the purpose loctite, which was my point from the beginning. Also from Loctite's website: "Grease, dirt, or oil in the assembly can slow curing, leading to a weak bond."

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I saw it on ALLDATA. I have never used Loctite on head bolts or studs, and never used or suggested anyone use both lubricant and Loctite on ANY fasteners; but have used thread sealant (alone) when they penetrate the water jacket.

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ALLDATA said use assembly Lube on Subaru head bolts? I don't think so. Perhaps you read it wrong. Oil, yes. Assembly Lube? I highly doubt it. If so, then I'd suggest you call them and tell them to update their manuals, because Subaru says to use engine oil. This whole discussion started when you said I was wrong for telling LoneWolfGal not to use the lube you recommend on flywheel and pressure plate bolts because they need Loctite, and now you're saying you never suggested using both? We'll let the posts speak for themselves. We both agreed that it's good to use it on the head of the bolt, but the discussion stemmed around the threads and them binding up, which you literally said you put a dab on the threads. Again, go back and read the posts. That is, until now, after I remided you that Loctite said not to use any lubricants.

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ALLDATA says "suitable lubricating oil", which is EXACTLY what ARP assembly lube is. From my post, which you here totally misrepresent, " You definitely want a dot of blue Loctite on the threads of both the pressure plate and flywheel bolts, but a coating of this product underneath the heads of the flywheel bolts makes cranking them to their final +90 degrees after torquing one heck of a lot easier..... " Nowhere in this post do I even remotely suggest using mixing or using both on the same surfaces. "Nam ipsa loquitur" to use a long standing legal maxim...............

Okay, I'm confused now. I understand that Loctite on flywheels and pressure plate bolts is advisable, but what about using ARP lubricant and/or blue Loctite on cam caps and camshaft cover bolts, which I will be dealing with right away, and on sump cover bolts later?

And if you kids don't settle down, I'm going to send your father in.

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As I noted previously, a dab of blue Loctite on the treads of both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts is advised, plus an application of the ARP lubricant on just the underside of the flywheel bolt heads. I would also use a dab (don't go nuts here) of the ARP on the cam shaft cap bolts. As for both the cam cover and sump cover, a small dab of the ARP is fine, again don't over apply it; I would not use any thread locker on either of these because the bolts are rather small and the use of a thread locker could lead to bolt breakage if furhter maintence is required down the road. This is exactly how we reassemble customer's engines, and we have not had any issues as the result of these practices.

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No problems here, I just take exception to anyone misquoting or misinterpeting any advice we post, or extrapolating failures from well known problems to every and all applications. Just because one engine design is known to have significant and well known issues, the same thing does not necessarily apply everywhere else. To again use a legal maxim, "non sequitur"..........

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To.which I replied, "True, but it seems she was talking about lubing the bolts the same way she would lube the compression tool, given she said she bought the product you suggested to lube the threads of the tool, as you suggested. Now, putting a dab of assembly lube on the inside head of the bolt where it contacts the flywheel and the pressure plate,is definitely a good idea for proper torqueing. But you certainly do not want that on the threads. And later you replied "This one of many reasons why we always "chase" every threaded opening in an engine case before assembly, and use a small dab of ARP thread lubricant when assembling . Consistency matters." I'd imagine at least SOME of those "thread openings" require loctite. So if you never specifically said you use loctite and lube on the same threads, one can surelt get that impression. Consistency matters, and so does clarity. And going back to ALLDATA, they need to change their manuals, because Subaru specifically says "Engine oil" on the head bolt heads and threads, so the ONLY "suitable lubricating oil" is engine oil, not assembly lube.

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Speaking of misquoting, I never said or implied anything of the sort.

Girls! Girls! You're BOTH pretty! Seriously, seeing two of the most knowledgeable and respected people on the forum at odds is like watching King Kong versus Godzilla. And I'm out of popcorn!

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Thanks for the vote of confidence but Jeff is hands down one of, if not the most knowledgeable person on here, and 100 times more knowledgeable than I, especially when it comes to porsches and have a great deal of respect for him. There are, however, times when dealing with laymn like myself and others a little more clarification would help. Not just "get the right part" or "your updated replacement engine is exactly the same as your original engine" and, in this particular case, saying I was wrong for telling you not to use assembly Lube on the flywheel and pressure plate bolt threads. In the end, we both agreed that you shouldn't use assembly lube on threads where loctite is required, and that's the important takeaway.

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Hahaha..

Another change in plans. Bank 1's cam chain pads are installed, the cams are back in place, and the cam cover has been bolted on. The engine's ready for transport. I had intended to finish the engine — install bank 2's pads and replace some miscellaneous stuff — before I made the move to my new place. However, the house I've been renting is on the market and the sellers are leaning on me to move out ASAP. This project is difficult enough without people breathing down my neck. I could play hardball and tell them to pound sand until July 9, the move-out date in the notice they sent me a month ago. That would be pointless. I'm going to rent an auto-hauler trailer from U-Haul for the 986 and a large covered trailer for the new engine (plus my tools and other possessions). The engine will travel strapped to a 4x4 pallet with 4" wheels (which make it relatively easy to move around on level surfaces). Once I get settled at my new digs I shall resume this project, free of pressure from external forces. In the meantime I'll be checking in here.

Just a note about the oil scavenge pump... I don't understand why so many how-to articles and videos insist that preserving the pump's orientation using a marker is a must, when the pump's orientation is cast into the face — 1-3 for bank 1, 4-6 for bank 2. As long as the cast numbers on the left side (inside) correspond to that bank's cylinder numbers, it's impossible to make a mistake and mount it upside down. Here's a photo from Pelican's technical article, although the article makes no mention of the cast numbers (which are hard to see in the photo):

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Good observation, except on bank 2 the 4-6 stamp would still be on the right, but inside , correct? If that's the case, then both sides are mounted in the same orientation? Yes, the numbers would make a good reference. But the instructions should be better than "install the same way you took it out" in the event someone was in there before you and reinstalled it upside-down. For example, does the indented rectangle in the inner circle of the outside cover point up on both? If so, that could be another reference. Or, perhaps more importantly given they evidently come apart, the notch on the INSIDE part that meets the cam (shown in smaller picture facing the installer's thumb) would be the best reference. There's a thread on this: https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/65231-scavenging-pump-orientation.html Post #4 by RodJ shows a diagram with 1-3 stamp on the inside (towards crank) and the arrows pointing down for bank 1, and the next post says 4-6 towards the crankshaft for bank 2. (so they are actually both oriented the same way) Not sure why the Pelican article didn't mention the stamp numbers or arrows. Seems to me it would be simplest to say "the arrows are supposed to point down on both banks"

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Bank 2's pump is installed upside down in relation to bank 1's, so the number placement is reversed, 4-6 on the left, toward the crankshaft. Note that the rectangular indentation next to the center of the casting is on the top for bank 1, the bottom for bank 2:

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Du'h! I forgot that they're on opposite ends of the engine! Yes, that makes sense. Arrows point DOWN for bank 2. I guess it's easiest to remember what Gelbster in post #5 from the same link says: "AS I said, forget the ports.You'll get muddled. Use the markings on the face- per the FSM. If Bank 1 the 1-3 marking faces/closest to the c/s If Bank 2 4-6 faces the c/s. "

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Assuming the engine isn't in yet, you'll never have easier access to those ancillary items. Would suck to put the engine in, then 2 mo from now the water pump goes out. It becomes a balancing act of how much you can budget for those extras, the odds of an old part failing, and the ease of being able to get to it if the engine is in the car. These projects rarely come in under budget, so the 'while you're in there's' always hurt the wallet but might be worth it if you have easy access to them with the engine out. I had just replaced the front engine mount and my clutch had plenty of meat left on it, so I didn't replace those items. Was glad I replaced the injectors as those were much easier with the engine out and this was on my Cayman - would be more difficult on a Box. I didn't need to change the WP as it was new on my rebuilt engine. Bottom line, I didn't need to spend a lot of aux items, but swapping in a used engine into a more confined area of a Box brings more of them into the equation.

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Good points, H.B. Besides the parts I've already replaced, including the IMS bearing, rear main seal, and cam chain tensioner pads (almost finished), I plan to replace a number of other items, including motor and transmission mounts and clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, as well as various and sundry other things forum members have recommended.

The almost-finished engine's ready to be covered with a 6x6 tarp and strapped onto the pallet with heavy-duty rachet straps for transport. The pallet's beefy 4" wheels each have a brake, which in addition to securing with ropes to the wall hooks will keep it immobile inside the trailer. I hope. It was a challenge wrestling that 500 lb. engine onto the pallet by myself using the cherry picker. My helpers were otherwise engaged. Hope they're around when I pull the pallet up the trailer's ramp with my come-along, but if not I'm perfectly capable of handling it solo. I hope.

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I'm surprised you didn't go out and buy a forklift.

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Can you get near the truck gate's required height with the cherry picker?

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It will be a covered trailer, not a truck. The cherry picker would be my choice if the engine wasn't already covered by a 6x6 tarp and then strapped securely to the pallet. The chain with which I was lifting the engine is under the tarp. I suppose I could rig up another strap setup around the pallet for the cherry picker, but pulling it up the ramp on its wheels seems easier.

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I could almost afford one if I hadn't used up my unexpected windfall on the Solution and other pricey parts. A few years back I had a chance to get a Bobcat for $1500, but I was too late by ten minutes! Someone else aced me. The guy that owned it had died and his wife was selling off his tools. I still feel like howling at the moon when I think about it.

The engine pallet and a few tools loaded into a 6x12 covered cargo trailer. Just starting to secure everything with ratchet straps, trying different anchor points. I have eight straps available, plus moving blankets. (And the top toolbox will ride on the floor.) Didn't need to use a come-along to get the engine in the trailer. I managed to get it up the ramp with two helpers as primary motive power. "Put your backs to it, lads," I exhorted them, which they seemed to appreciate. And I pushed, too. I will no doubt need the come-along when I unload it at the destination, solo.

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Congrtulations! I have never doubt the power of a woman with determination :-)

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quite the rollercoaster of emotions all for this tool that i now need to buy for my timing job. just off all of this im thinking Pipers nudge towards building the special tool 9632 from the youtube video might be ideal and effective with time and price

The engine's at the new place. This was taken just after it was unloaded. I had been sweating unloading it, but I needn't have worried, and I didn't have to use the come-along after all. I merely guided the engine while it sailed down the 4x8 ramp in stately fashion. It began gathering momentum toward the bottom but then it encountered the stack of moving blankets I'd placed there. I attribute the trouble-free unloading to the heavy-duty 4" wheels (with brakes) I installed on the pallet. Moving the 500 lb engine around on a level surface is easy as pie.

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Welcome to your new home!

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Thanks, Gilles. I'm not finished moving yet, but one more trailer load should do it, except for the Porsche. I'm going to rent an auto hauler for it from U-Haul next week and deliver that 986 to its new digs in style. Then I'm going to kick back for a while to recharge. Moving is rather taxing. As in totally exhausting.

Do you have AAA? You can get a free tow on a flatbed.

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Al, I had AAA a couple years back but didn't renew it, because State Farm has roadside service. I'm leaning toward using a "tow dolly," which lifts the front and leaves the rear wheels on the road to freewheel. Everyone I've talked to says tow dollies are the way to go for light cars. https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Tow-Dolly-Rental/TD/

I was checking into this some time ago. I discovered tow dolly’s are not recommended for the Boxster. I believe the transmission is the problem.

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I can't accept that, Newsguy. If a tow dolly is a problem, then merely coasting in neutral would be a problem.

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I'm in agreement with Newsguy. I would not recommend a dolly. Assuming it doesn't harm the transmission, the low clearance is also a big concern. Your local U-Haul should have car trailers where you can load the whole car. https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/

Coasting is not the same as towing for miles. I would really like that solution to work, but I'm not willing to risk it.

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I'll look into it further. I didn't consider rear ground clearance, The full-size auto transport is considerably heavier than the tow dolly, which is a concern. They're made to haul heavy vehicles. I don't want to exceed my Isuzu's 4000 lb. tow capacity, although I once towed a 5000-lb travel trailer with it, so it does have some reserve.

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You can tell the U-Haul rep what your tow vehicle is and the vehicle you're towing and they'll tell you if you're within limits. This is helpful: https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Auto-Transporter-User-Instructions-121/

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Thanks, Al. Lots of useful information in there. So far I've towed two fully loaded covered cargo trailers over there, a 6x12 and a 5x9. Only the Porsche remains to be moved.

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The Boxster weighs 2778 and the trailer weighs 2210, according to the U-haul website, for a total weight of 4988. If you've already pulled a 5000 pound trailer, this shouldn't be a problem. I would imagine you've pulled the trailer much further than you'll be pulling the Box, right? Another option is to rent one of their pickup trucks along with the trailer. You can rent them by the hour for fairly cheap. This will give you peace of mind and eliminate any risk to your Trooper.

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I was skeptical, but it turns out you and Al were correct about possible damage to the transmission using a tow dolly:: Transmission damage to your vehicle-in-tow When towing a rear axle driven front engine vehicle on a tow dolly, the drive shaft must be disconnected to prevent transmission damage. Simply placing the transmission in neutral is not sufficient and will not prevent damage due to a lack of internal lubrication. You must disconnect the drive shaft at the rear axle and tie or wire it up. The universal joint bearing caps must be taped on to prevent loss of the bearings. If you choose to remove the drive shaft entirely, it may be necessary to cap the transmission tail shaft to prevent fluid loss and possible future damage. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual. https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Tow-Dolly-User-Instructions-120/ Drat! And here I'd assumed the problem was solved. Thanks to both of you. You kept me from making a dumb mistake.

I just checked the Uhaul site and you can rent a pickup or a 10' box truck for $19.95/hour (plus $1.39/mile). Too bad you don't have anything left in the other house, otherwise the 10' truck would have been perfect. If you have nothing else to haul, the pickup may be your best bet, given it'll be easier to handle and probably gets better mileage. The car carrier alone costs 54.95, for a total of $74.90 before tagging on miles. Maybe call a towing company and see what they would charge for a flatbed. My guess it would be not much more. You'll save yourself a lot of hassle, and they're liable if anything happens. National average is from $75 to $125 As a die-hard DIYer, I evaluate the options and sometimes conclude that even a die-hard DIYer has to call in reinforcements occasionally.

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Al, the problem is, I'm moving from Corbett, Oregon (on the Columbia River Gorge, east of Portland) to Eugene, about 140 miles south. so the mileage on the rental truck would probably add up to quite a sum. Also, I would face logistical problems picking up the truck and returning it, since U-Haul is 15 miles away, in Gresham, and it seems all my friends in the area are out of town this week. Otherwise, one of them could give me a lift.. I'm leaning toward renting U-Haul's auto transport, even though the combined weight of car and trailer approaches 5000 lbs. As I said, I once towed a 5000 lb. travel trailer for a friend with my 4WD Isuzu Rodeo without a problem, but it was only 30 miles; 140 miles could be a strain. Or not. The Isuzu is pretty beefy, and it would be a straight shot down I-5 on mostly flat pavement. As an alternative, I think I'll call some transport companies and find out how much they would charge to flatbed the car down there. I had naively assumed the tow dolly was the perfect solution for towing the car. But nooo! That would be too simple and easy.

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I didn't realize you were driving that far. The mileage will rack the rental price up quite a bit. Even more with a towing company. If you're not dealing with many hills, you should be fine with the Rodeo. Another thought is to get an estimate from Uship. Can the car drive onto a trailer? Often times, if they can combine trips you can get a bit of a break.

hello. I'm hoping that someone could measure the distance from the flywheel friction surface to the engine/bellhousing flange. Thanks

I would explore the possibility of the trailer dolly, but getting the Boxter rear axle on the dolly.. This way you will not damage the transmission and also (very important) you will have the heavier axle on the dolly. PS: Of course, you will have to tell U-haul that you will be towing a VW Golf..

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She could, but there's still the issue with ground clearance. I don't know how close the nose will be to the ground with the back wheels lifted up anywhere from 4 to 8 inches. Then the center of gravity will shift forward lowering the front even more. And on top of that there's the downward g-force when you come to a dip in the road which will further lower it. (Ever notice how the road is darker there? That's from all the passing cars that leak oil, where the droplets were clinging on for dear life to the bottom of the car until the downward g-force overwhelmed them. All at the exact same spot on the road.)

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UPDATE: I hired a local gyppo truckdriver to haul the car down on his tilting flatbed rig. Problem solved!

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Good call!

The guy who hauled the car down said it was one of the easiest moves he's ever done. He particularly appreciated the tow hook on the front bumper. After I retrieve my furniture and other belongings from a local storage unit I will be completely and officially moved in. Then I'll have to unpack and set up my shop. I'm anxious to replace bank 2's cam chain tensioner pads (and a few other minor things) and then stick the engine in the car. If I hadn't had to move right smack in the middle of the project I would be close to finished. But again... adapt, improvise, overcome — oorah!

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I’d submit that to be generic U-Haul language, written to address automatic transmissions, where there will be a pump driven via the torque converter. Manuals have no pumps and rely on splash lubrication and you have a manual. Clearly you need to go with what you are comfortable with, so this is simply a point to consider…

Just to clarify, the Boxster owner’s manual clearly states damage may occur if any method apart from flat bed towing is used.

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Correct. Actually, what it says is that all 4 wheels should be off the ground. It does not mention the transmission. That all said, the OP has moved her vehicle, so all good.

I've decided after I install the new engine I'm going to buy a flatbed trailer and just haul the car around instead of driving it. It will eliminate wear and tear on the car entirely!

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Why bother installing the engine, then? I'll take that paperweight off you.

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Excellent point. I hadn't considered that. But if I don't see the project through to completion my OCD would probably kick in and start nagging me.

An interlude to express my appreciation of the 986's design... Look at its beautiful lines, an auto-design symphony. Gotta hand it to Grant Larson; he nailed it. The design of the first series is aesthetically perfect. That said, my hands-down choice for most beautiful auto design has always been the series 1 E-type roadster. I wasn't alone in my opinion. Enzo Ferrari described the E-type as "the most beautiful car ever designed." I'll probably never own an E-type, but my unassuming little 986 definitely checks some of the same boxes for me. NOTE: Personally, I prefer the base model to the S. I like the base's black instrumentation, front end treatment, and massive single tailpipe. Although I don't mind the much-maligned "fried egg" headlights, I have to admit that the clear headlights give it a very clean look. But man, are they pricey!

My car is black, and honestly I like the fried eggs. I think a lot of people have gone out of their way to de-amber, swap to clear, and the fried eggs will come back into vogue.

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Mine came with aftermarket clear lenses installed AND the originals, so when the sentiment is back to the classic original look, I'll be ready.

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I have a base model. While I expect the vast majority of base models had black gauges, mine was equipped with aluminum gauge faces. (Most people think they are white, but if I look closely at the right angle, I can detect a silver tone.) I have the window sticker for my car, and the aluminum gauge faces are listed as a preferred option as part of the package with a silver gear shift lever. The fried egg headlights didn't bother me at first, but the constant bombardment of fried-egg hate on this and other forums prompted me to consider other options. I eventually found some damaged litronic headlights at a good price and with the advice from folks on this forum rehabbed them. https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/54697-advice-used-litronics.html When you finish your engine rebuild, you can consider starting a "treasure hunt" for some used litronics. I had to replace the wiring harness in one of mine but compared to an engine swap that is a trivial task.

I followed a 986 yesterday whose owner had installed a large carbon-fiber spoiler. He obviously liked how it looked, so more power to him. Me? I hated it. The outsized spoiler certainly spoiled the balance of the 986's lines. And what's with the popularity of carbon fiber? Perhaps, like the spoiler, it's an acquired taste, one I have yet to acquire. Carbon fiber always looks to me like a part that hasn't been painted yet. Diff'rent strokes.

I drastically underestimated the time and effort and swearing required to set up a new house. I haven't even begun unpacking Porsche parts and tools and setting up the shop. After that's done I'll be back online chronicling the engine-swap saga.

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Thanks for checking in. I've been wondering if you were okay.

Still working on getting the new house together, but the other day I ran into another woman mechanic. Like me, her experience is mostly with conventional engines, not flat sixes, but she's knowledgeable. She said to call her if I need help with tasks that are easier with two people. Actually, she's so fascinated by the engine swap (which she called "interesting and ambitious") she said she'd just enjoy hanging out and giving me a hand if I need it. So far I've done everything solo, but I won't turn down help. You know the old saying, "Wrenching loves company."

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Opps... too late. I haven't had any problems. 4 on the floor like this boxster or my daily boxster got towed with a dolly from where I bought it to my house.

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At first glance, that car seems to need a little attention. Or perhaps it's only lens distortion?

Looks like a 90's Miata with Boxster seats and wheels. Look at the cut-outs in the hood for pop-up headlights. Or maybe a Boxster rolling chassis with Miata body parts. Also, I don't see any sign of an engine between the seats. Look at this 1990 Miata: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-mazda-mx-5-miata-264/

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Hi, Al. Those are definitely Boxster Turbo Twist wheels. Which, by the way, are my favorites. If I bought a 986 that had fancy wheels, I'd replace them with Turbo Twists. Hard to improve upon perfection.

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I like them too, and I wish I had them because they seem so much easier to clean than mine. Especially that damn brake dust. That's definitely not a Boxster body, though. And BTW that front frame is not from a Boxster, either.

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A bit altered... Its a boxster. Tubed out with an FD RX7 body on it. Its got a rotary engine in the middle. (this car retained the factory firewall for the most part) But back to towing. I've never had problems towing (granted I haven't towed 986's much) I can't see why it would be a problem flat towing. The countershaft is on the bottom of the trans, and the lube is driving by that input from the wheels. For the same reason you can tow bugs in this way. The only reason why I think the manual says you shouldn't is because of the floating steering wheel and keeping the key in the on position will kill the battery. I guess Porsche just didn't want to deal with a bunch of warranty claims for dead batteries.

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My lord why would anyone pay money, let alone $40k, for a Miata?!?!?!?!?! LOL The engine is right where its supposed to be. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DLvGua88hO4

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Ah so it's an RX7, not a Miata, as I originally thought. Pretty slick (or sick) LOL. I assume the Boxster engine was grenaded, but what was wrong with the body that you had to transplant another ono it? What's that engine in there now? It seems to sit a lot lower than the Original Boxster engine. EDIT: Nevermind. you answered the engine question below. But what was wrong with the body?

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I don't know what happened to the flat six. I might have been a runner. Don't care I tossed the engine in the trash as soon as the car came to my house. The skin came from a salvage guy in Florida. The skin looked like it got swiped in the right rear corner. I slapped it on my truck and took it home. Cheapest way to get an FD now a days.

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Oh, you mean the 986 body. Not much wrong with it. I cut the skin off of it and saved it for future repair to my DD. As it so happens the RF fender is on my DD now. I used the junky fender that was on the boxsterado on the RX986 (for the fuel door), and swapped the blue fender (resprayed) onto my DD.

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Is that tree growing out of the frunk?

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what the eff did i just read?

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There will be a quiz that counts for 90 percent of your grade.

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What did you have trouble understanding? The first sentence "Oh, you mean the 986 body" is shortened because I had made a previous response in haste and didn't think about the OP's question regarding the 986 body. The next sentence "Not much wrong with it." depicts the condition of the 986 body. "It" in that sentence stands in place for the type of car I'm describing, in this case its a 986. This sentence might get dicey for a boomer (thats someone who is old). "I cut the skin off of it and saved it for future repair to my DD". "skin" is the outer shell of a monocoque chassis. "It" refers again to the 986 car type. I didn't use a coma to separate the compound sentence, but its not always necessary to do so. The "it" in the second half of the sentence refers to the forementioned skin. "DD" is colloquialism for daily driver. I'll admit this next sentence is superfluous. "As it so happens the RF fender is on my DD now". I use this sentence to describe how I used the "RF" (that means Right Front) fender. I again use the two characters DD to suplement writing daily driver. This final sentence is a bit clunky but we can brake it down into one compound sentence, then clarify. "I used the junky fender that was on the boxsterado on the RX986 (for the fuel door), and swapped the blue fender (resprayed) onto my DD." The word "I" is the subject for the first part of the compound. The predicate of that part is "used". "the junky blue fender that was on the boxsterado" could have been better separated with a coma as it describes one thing. "on the RX986" is a preposition. "On" in this last part of the first side of the compound sentence is the preposition describing where the "junky blue fender" was going. "(for the fuel door)" I used paratheses to try to separate this thought from the rest of the sentence for clarity (I failed). The subject for the last half of the compound sentence is an implied "I". In the second half of the compound sentence "swapped" is the verb that is being done to the fender. "onto" is another preposition describing where the blue fender is going. "DD" is used again at the end of the sentence.

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[Image-only or quote-only post; no author-written text.] https://media1.tenor.com/m/SLjIrbzQGT4AAAAd/dwight-the-office.gif

My engine swap thread seems to have metamorphosed into TikTok posts in my absence. I'm still busy setting up my new house and shop, and I want you kids to be on your best behavior while I'm away.

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I was enjoying your English 101 lesson until I hit, "...but we can brake it down into one compound sentence...". That's where you lost me. Nice try.

I'm still alive, still getting things set up at my new place. In the meantime, since putting the car on jack stands will be my first order of business, I've been thinking about how to make the process less frustrating. The main problem with jacking up Boxsters is the lack of jacking points at the centerline in the front and back. Without them, one must use the "approved" jacking points which, instead of at the center line, are offset a foot or so to one side. As a result, the car is not side-to-side level when elevated, which causes aggravation when trying to place jack stands under the car. Consequently, I've come up with a Grant Hargraveish solution: a 5"-wide steel channel crossways on the floor jack, with rubber pads that correspond to left and right jacking points. The channel will be upside down on the floor jack in order to keep the profile as shallow as possible and also to prevent the floor jack's pad from slipping off the channel. I ran this plan by my friend the metal fabricator, and he gave it his blessing, although he thought steel would be preferable to aluminum, because he thought aluminum would flex too much. The issue is moot, however, since I couldn't locate aluminum channel wider than 4". Rubber jack pads, including the one on my floor jack, are close to 5" in diameter. I would be interested to hear folks' take on this scheme.

That should work, but you don't need to do all that. The suspension and body are stiff enough that even if the lift points are off-center, the lean won't be all that much. Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDA-qI5HsIU

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Consider the following: With the floor jack under the rear crossmember, jack up the entire back of the car and place jackstands under the left and right side jacking points (just ahead of the wheel wells) and lower the car onto them. At the front, jack from just behind the front wheel wells, placing the jack well inboard (you will see a good structural location about 18” in). That will lift the front of the car, at which point you can place jackstands at both of the front jacking points, lower the front of the car and pull the jack out. In summary, lift the car twice and place four jackstands. Easy easy.

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Thanks, Al. That was one of the first videos I watched when I first got the car. I like John Salt's videos. I've had the car on jack stands four times now, using Salt's (and Tom Coradeschi's) method. Which works fine IF you don't need to elevate the car higher than 14" or so. As Salt observed, when raised at the recommended jacking points, front and rear, the car is higher on one side. There's no way around it. My jack stands have a maximum height of almost 20", and I want every inch of that , to have enough room to drop the engine and transmission. A 14" jack stand height won't cut it. I can't conceive of any way I can achieve maximum height — on BOTH sides — without using something like my floor jack cross member to lift the car evenly and level, both sides at once. I've been thinking about this problem for a long time and I'm fairly certain my design will do the job. So I'm going to proceed with fabrication (i.e., cutting the channel to length with a hacksaw) of the floor jack cross member, which I have dubbed "The Lift Master" (patent pending). Any bets on whether it will work?

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Rereading your post, may I assume by "With the floor jack under the rear crossmember" and "just behind the front wheel wells, placing the jack well inboard (you will see a good structural location about 18” in)," you're referring to the same lift points John Salt used in his video? Otherwise, according to Porsche, damage to the undercarriage can result.

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What's the lift on your jack? if it's about 22-24", then the low side should be at around the 20" you need, and the high side will be more than high enough, naturally. .

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My floor jack's maximum height is 19.5 inches. My brother's jack is approximately the same. Not enough to raise both sides to 20 inches. I could buy or make tall ramps for all four wheels and stick a platform made of 2x8s or 2x10s under the jack. That's one solution I considered. Constructing the Lift Master™ is even simpler: hacksaw 12 inches off a 48-inch-long steel channel, attach a couple of 5-inch rubber pads .— and it's finished! (Well... my OCD-lite will probably compel me to spray it yellow to match the floor jack, so there's that.) There's adequate clearance to get the Lift Master™ under the front or back with its channel upside down over the jack's pad. The pad will be in the trough, preventing the channel from slipping. The arms will extend out 18 inches (from the jack's centerline) on each side, pads positioned under the lift points. C'mon, Al — you don't think it's a simple, semi-innovative solution? Okay, where's Grant?!

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I can’t say, as I’ve never seen the video. It’s a method I’ve been using since 2006. I put some photos up in a post, probably on the Pelican Parts forum, many years ago…

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Tom, is there another Pelican Parts forum besides this one? Also, if you want to see Salt's video it can be arranged, assuming you can present proper identification.

This is what I do whenever I need to jack the car high on four jackstands, please note that this is my personal procedure that has worked for me since 2007 I first got my 987CS, and now I use it on the 981CS 1) get the rear wheels on ramps 2) raise the front driver side with the floor jack, enough to put a 4x4 underneath the front left wheel (this extra step is required as my car is lowered..), otherwise the jack and the piece of wood will not fit under the front bumper 3) get the floor jack centered with the frunk emblem using a 2x6x24 piece of wood under the front part of the subframe and raise the entire front, then use two stands under the facory jacking points (I use 'jack pucks' attached to the jacking points) between the jack and the frame. 4) I center the jack using the exhaust pipes as a centering point and use a 4x4x36 under the bolts that connect the diagonal braces to the rear suspension mounting points, raise the rear axle just enough to raise the wheels to allow me to remove the ramps and install the rear jack stands. IF, needed to get the car higher, I "very carefully", slowly raise the front a bit (one click on the stands) and then move to the rear axle and do the same with the 4x4 Note: you need to raise each axle just a bit to avoid the risk of the pucks slipping from the jack stands. Please note that I have the Quick Jack, but sometimes just thinking about the weight of the ramps gives me a back ache.. .

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https://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/729592-what-kinds-floor-jacks-2.html#post7581158

Thought I'd check in and prove I'm still alive and kicking. The place I bought turned out to need a lot of work. I underestimated how rough it was. But I bought it for a song, and it was built on a fairly large lot, the main attraction. I've been tied up getting it in shape — furnace, water heater, plumbing, toilet, bathtub/shower, 220 dryer outlet, roof, etc., etc., etc. Doing most of the work myself, of course, because I can. And when I get ready to flip it, the way things are going in today's real estate market, I'll probably double my money. Why not just stay here, you ask? The reason is simple: Because it's unsuitable for installation of a 2-post lift. I'm determined to have one. Anyway, I'll be back in the swap saddle by and by, count on it.

I've been wondering where you were because I haven't seen a post from you in some time... part of me was hoping you had your Boxster all finished and you were taking a long, well deserved road trip, but I decided that thought was premature. So, glad to see your post and hope you get back to working on your car once your domestic tasks are taken care of. Larry (the Bald Eagle)

I've been wondering where you were because I haven't seen a post from you in some time... part of me was hoping you had your Boxster all finished and you were taking a long, well deserved road trip, but I decided that thought was premature. So, glad to see your post and hope you get back to working on your car once your domestic tasks are taken care of. Larry (the Bald Eagle)

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Thank you, Larry. The ironic thing is, I'm feeling guilty about spending all this time on the house instead of working on my poor little 986. But if I don't get this house stuff finished before cold weather sets in I'll be in big trouble.

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I assumed that you guys get plenty of rain, but never knew that it gets too cold in the PNW area..

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The PNW has freezes from time to time. The winter before last the temp dropped into the low teens. Roads were glare ice. That's the kind of weather where you'll need to have a torpedo heater on hand if you're working in the garage. I have mine, Mr. Heater. Not much of a conversationalist, but he can keep a garage toasty.

Thought I'd take a break from installing a new kitchen faucet to give you an advance peek at the Lift Master™. To obtain enough clearance to slide it underneath the car to the lift points I use ramps under the wheels. But then, I have to use ramps with the supposedly low-profile floor jack alone. The Lift Master™ worked perfectly in testing. The car was level side-to-side at maximum jack height. I didn't take a picture because it wasn't painted yet, but more photos to follow when I put the car on jack stands to drop the old engine (although it might be a while before I can get to it). Lift Master™ dimensions: 5" width x 1" height x 36" length. Height added to floor jack: 3/16" (thickness of the steel channel) plus 1" (rubber pads).

One furnace rebuild and electrical panel replacement later, here I am trying to figure out what's wrong with my 986's power windows. I made the mistake of lowering both windows just a bit ago and now I can't raise either one. They went down but would not go back up. Guess I'll have to do some research. In the meantime I'll use the car cover so the neighborhood cats don't get inside and sharpen their claws on my new drivers seat.

If that happened to me, I would start by checking the fuses. Good luck.

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Fuses appear to be fine. My multimeter is still packed, so I haven't checked the relays. Wonder if the power window problem is related to the top's malfunction? Anyway, I don't have time to run it to ground. Thanks for the well wishes, Kev. I need all that stuff I can get.