First Impressions - hardtop installed on 987.2 BS

From the complete lack of responses I got looking for info on installing hardtop hardware in a 987.2 BS, I think that these top installations may be pretty rare, particularly related to the fairly common number on 986 's. I just finished the top install and first driving impressions so I thought I would add to the hardtop lore for others thinking about it. I have seen a number of posts where the view is that the Gen 2 tops are so much improved over the 986 's that the hardtop is now unneeded. I do agree that the gen 2 tops with the added interior liners are really good soft tops, quite quiet versus single layer tops and pretty livable. However, I am a big fan of winter hardtops and went ahead. First (and only) issue is the installation of the required Spinlock receptacles just behind the B pillars. Porsche installs the brackets which hold these little cylinders, but skips install of the cylinders themselves. In the 986 , this install is a matter of minutes, but due to a redesign of the soft top mechanism, it is a big pain in the 987's. I acquired the parts (about $95 from Suncoast ), and also the Alldata instructions and instructions from a couple of less specific sources. After a couple of hours trying to DIY, I called in a top drawer Indy, EPE of Natick, MA, who installed the parts with a bit of swearing and only a 3 hour charge. My thanks to them for taking on a small but bothersome task that I failed at. Once the locks are in, the top is a simple drop in using the original front latch system and two simple levers to lock down the rear sides into the new locks. In my case, I fell into a perfect used top that came from a 2008 BS RS60 in GT Silver. The top was removed up front and never used on the car, which was moved to FL without top and later sold. I put it on a Meteor Grey car and I think the two colors are really a good pairing so not planning on painting the top so far. With top installed, there is a definite reduction in noise, both wind and all other noises. It is also definitely much more insulated, and overall a very nice improvement for cold weather use. I suspect that the pile of soft top material over the engine further dampens engine and tire noise. The fit appears to promise complete water tightness, the windows seal properly against the top seals just like the originals, etc. For this top, I just dropped it on and tightened clamps with no adjusting. There is a good bit of latitude with the clamps so fine tuning of the fit looks to be very easy if needed. On first run on rough roads, no rattles at all for this one. A nice benefit is that the soft top is completely protected from all of winter's harshness, so there may be some payback in soft top longevity. From the interior, there is a distinct improvement in visibility, particularly if you snap out the mesh screens in the headrests. The glass rear window is much wider. More light is also a plus. Otherwise, the interior looks much the same with a very similar cloth roof liner that about matches the soft top liner. The glass wind blocker should be removed for air circulation to the rear glass, but same for the soft top in winter. The whole top weighs about 50 pounds, as it is aluminum. I would not try to install it alone due to the two long sharp pointed locking pins that stick out below bottom edge and will easily scratch or dent metal. I have a hoist in my garage for a Mercedes SL top that I jury rigged to hold this top for this first pass at installation, and anything like that is more than enough to allow one person to handle it. With two people and no hoist it is cake. So far the only negative is a reduction in the exhaust note from inside. Highly recommended upgrade for the cooler climates.

Post a pic!

The winter storage alternative: GT Silver hardtop over Meteor Grey, 2014 Cayman 18" wheels with Dunlop snows (OEM package), Weathertech floor liners, small snow brush in trunk just in case. Ready for those nicer winter days.

Gorgeous, simply gorgeous!

Like that top! Should do good with The Dunlop snows.

What did you pay for the top itself? Is it the same top for 987.1 and 987.2 ?

I had to compete with a guy that was first in line to buy it so I ended up paying the full asking price of 1400. Fortunately first caller wanted a little extra time to be sure it fit his car and I jumped ahead with a firm deal. I was afraid that I would lose it if I tried to counter offer since there were a number of calls from his CraigsList ad on the first day. I was lucky to see ad just after it was posted. I justified what was probably a small premium in price (maybe extra 200) with several factors. It was basically brand new and perfect; it was 40 miles from home so no hassles: I could drive the Boxster to the top to be positive it fit properly: the color was a really good complement to the Meteor gray so no repaint cost (I am really liking the color pairing so far): final piece is that the 987 tops are very rare for some reason. Lots of 986 's at around $1k, but no 987's since I have been watching (summer 2016 on) in Boston area, CL, Ebay, chat groups. At some point, if I sell the BS, I can recoup most of the top cost too (not expected anytime soon). I set the top on BS without the B pillar locks for the drive home too (no shipping cost or hassle). The front locks securely into the windshield header as if permanently mounted, and the rear locking pins drop into the holes where the Spinlock inserts get installed, so top can't slide sideways or anywhere else. Finally, I used a ratchet strap around top and through the roll bars to really secure it for the trip home (with some padding for paint protection). Result was a very firmly mounted top with no rattles or even wind noise on the trip home. I would have been fine driving it well beyond the 40 miles home. You may not be aware that there are brackets already mounted at the B pillars to accept the Spinlock inserts (these receive the bare pins for temporary movement) as they come with black plastic covers hiding the holes which just snap out. This is a 987.1 top on a 987.2 , so yes they are the same perfect fit. It is very hard to see the differences between 987 top and 986 top if they are not on the car. I think the entire top body is the same except for the window opening. Even the wire for the defroster on the 987 has a 986 part number on a very visible tag, which made me very anxious to fit it on the car. The 987 side windows were slightly expanded on upper rear curve for better visibility (a bit more squared), but very hard to spot the difference if you only see one top. There is probably something different with the Spinlock locking pieces at the B pillars also, as the inserts you need to install to receive them are different between the 986 and 987 although they look pretty similar in the parts diagrams.

So you don't have to take off the soft top to get it to install? I wonder why I thought that....

I like the look. In fact, when I had a 2005 Boxster , I tried to get a top but the dealer had a hard time ordering one. Ultimately, i got my hard top when I purchased my Cayman !

Very nice looking, I think the contrast sets it off.

Now that it has been on for a bit, I really like the colors. The GT silver has a richer softer depth than say Arctic and really mates with the similar depth of the Meteor even better in person. Somehow digital cameras don't pick that up too well. I think the two tone actually looks better than a monotone would look on this car.

I've been searching for a hardtop forever but haven't been able to find one. Lucky score, looks awesome!

There has been one new hardtop for sale - I think it was/is at Suncoast , for about $2500 plus shipping of about $400. It is the only one I have seen except for the Craigs List one I actually bought. That one is bright red, so probably a limited list of colors it would go with. I felt very lucky to get mine, but there are certainly some out there. It's funny, but the deal on my OEM winter wheels/ tires and the deal on the top both came because I was playing hookey and at home on the weekday when those ads were first posted. I got to the owners within an hour or two of the postings, and would have lost them if I was at work and didn't have the ability to get in the car by lunch. I think those two days paid off pretty well.

I also looked for months for the matching hardtop for my 2011 Boxster S 987.2 , and finally found one with matching color. Once it arrived I then tackled installation of the cam locks. There is virtually no information on this process or whether the amateur can do this, or if so, how to do so... So, I took on this job yesterday, and am pleased to pass-on that this is not difficult at all, and can be done within an hour or so using ordinary hand tools. Here’s how I did it: 1. Remove the sound proof seat belt covers from the car!s interior. There is a small self tapping screw in each cover approximately 5” above the bottom edge, so remove it, then pop the upper plastic retainer loose (visible from the upper edge of the seat belt cover). Now this cover can be slid upward then out of the way. Being careful to note that each camlock is designed to go to go to either the left side or the right side, and has to slide into the proper frame position exactly and securely, double check that you have the correct cam lock in the correct side of the car, and firmly set each camlock into position. 2. Position the convertible top in the usual engine service position, except position the top somewhat closer to the windshield (maybe a foot from the windshield). This will make step 3 easier. Also slide the seats forward. 3. From the engine compartment view, on each side of the convertible compartment can be spotted a black cast metal support bracket, held in place by 3 bright silver steel bolt heads. This is the bracket that blocks access to the insertion point for the cap lock screws provided with the cam lock insert, and needs to be moved enough to allow space for positioning of the screws. There is a small piece of plastic trim which obscures the view of the top-most bolt, so remove that trim piece (easily placed back when this step is completed). Also there is a plastic trim piece on the convertible top cover that is somewhat in the way so I chose to pop that off , one side at a time; easily repositioned. Starting on one side (I started on the driver’sJ, slide small thin wooden shims under the black cast metal piece held in place by these bolts. Leave the most rearward bolt in place and remove the other 2 bolts completely (the wood shims help keep everything in place for reinstallaion of these bolts). 4. Now the front of the convertible top can swivel up and down on the remaining bolt of the bracket. You can lift straight upward on the convertible B-pillar an inch or so, and that provides the needed space to get the cam-lock socket screw into place. Using a 5.5 mm wrench, raise the B-pillar up with one hand while inserting the socket head screw into position and tighten it firmly. 5. Re-install the 2 bolts from step 2 and tighten all 3 bolts. Re-install the plastic trim pieces. Remove the wood shims. Make sure no tools are in the way. Take the top out of engine service position and cycle the convertible top up and down to make sure all is still in normal function and order. 6. Repeat for the opposite side. 7. You should now be able to install the hardtop using the directions from the owner’s manual, including the rear window defroster. 8. Now reinstall the seatbelt covers That should do it. Hopes this helps the next automotive adventurer. As these cars also make great track cars, some tracks require hardtops for better roll-over protection. These are hard to find!

Congrats Lorenzo. That sounds like the most efficient install I have come across. I gave up and my high end shop spent 3 hours on it. I took the BS down to Mystic Seaport for this past weekend (200 miles trip) because it was a pretty nice, dry weekend forecast. Thoroughly enjoyed the hardtop quiet and tightness. No reason not to drive it in winter if there are nice clean roads.

1997 986. Hardtops transform the Boxster's personality, it feels like two cars for the price of one!

When you add the 986 Speedster humps, you get 3 looks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Can be done within an hour or so using ordinary hand tools ? Hello all, I purchased a 2010 987v2 Boxster last year and just found a barn stored Hardtop that fit's my vehicle, now the Attaching Hardware , i.e., SpinLocks Challenge, the Dealer wants $550.00 to install. Another short term project, started having some minor burning oil smoke on Cold starts so I ordered an AOS and (2) Vent Lines. I have question on both ventures, since the 987v2 is quite a bit different for both tasks than a 986, I'd invite those with first hand knowledge to chime in. Looks like the redesign of the AOS is easier to remove/replace than the 986, As a 987v2 Boxster Owner there's little to no information regarding the Hardtop SpinLocks, dealer says to remove top so Lorenzo's posting has me interested. I have fiber shims left from Building an ICF House in NH back in 2013, so I'm ready to venture on, hopefully someone else has already followed Lorenzo's Process. With regards to the AOS, I watch a 987 Cayman YouTube and it seemed pretty straight forward however the amount to room to work with in the Boxster is pretty small with the Top folded forward in the Service Mode and the Roll Bar. Dealer wants $980. to replace. So, back to my task at hand since I'm waiting for the AOS, but I do have all the recommended parts for the Hardtop Installation Kit. any Technical guidance would be appreciated, hot outside today !

Congrats on your score, ScottNH. My shop did not remove the soft top, so it is possible. They are EPE (European Performance Engineering) in Natick, MA, and could likely do it faster now. Mine was their first. Worth checking them out on line in any case, as they handle some really interesting Porsches. Quick follow up to my two tone set-up. Got a message from another Planet 9 guy who acquired a Meteor Gray top for his silver 987. He saw this thread and was interested in seeing if I might want to trade my silver top for his Meteor assuming it was actually a match. We met in Portsmouth and did a trial swap. I decided I liked the monotone look better, and he much referred the silver on his so we just left them in place. So much for serendipity.

I'd like to thank Lorenzo and his brilliant idea, I was skeptical at first but I carefully tackled the task and it took me about 3 hours I've provided some commentary for those like me needing more details and insight, in some cases I did things a bit different but Lorenzo and I accomplished the same goal, ready for the Hardtop Install. Note: I refer to the Diagram Callout Numbers........ I first fully retracted the Convertible Top and removed the Plastic Plugs inserted in the Factory Installed Driver's & Passenger's Side Mount Brackets #18. If you are new to this first check to see if you have the Mount Brackets already installed, Mounting Brackets are available but they have unique Part Numbers (PNs) assigned by location, Driver's vs. Passenger's Side. Just remember, those references are made as you sit in the Driver's Seat facing forward, L= Driver, R = Passenger. When you retract the Convertible Top the Mounting Brackets w/Plugs are visible. Take time to examine them, remove the plugs and you'll see there's a receiving hole at the top for the Cam Lock Inserts and also note there's a threaded socket for Fit Bolt Insertion. I placed the Cam Lock Inserts # 20; Driver's Side PN: 98756371300 and Passenger's Side PN: 98756371400 in the holes created after pulling out the Plugs. I didn't have any issues, each Cam Lock is designed so they just drop-in flush in the Mount Bracket then positioned so the grove is ready for the insertion of the Fit Bolt # 19 PN: 99921904100. One Fit Bolt screws into each Mounting Bracket and slides into the Cam Lock's grove, once the Fit Bolt is tightened it secures the Cam Lock so it can move left or right or come back out of the Mounting Bracket. More on that later.... OK about Lorenzo's Steps: #1 - Sound proof seat belt covers, hiiimmmm, took me a few minutes to understand it was basically the carpeted side panels covering the Seat Belt Mechanics, to the rear and exterior of the Driver's and Passenger's Seat. Once you flip forward the seats it's right there. I was too focused on the use of Seat Belt Covers, looking at the actual Seat Belts and where they attached, not so. Anyway, as described after Philips Head Screw removal pull upward, they remove easily. To eventually insert the Fit Bolts, these covers need to be removed. As noted above, I first installed the Cam Lock Inserts while the Convertible Top was fully retracted. #2 - Key in the process is the fact that the Convertible Roof's Left and Right Mounting Base (one side at a time) is semi-detached to allow it to be moved upward and therefore exposing the insertion point for the Fit Bolt #19. With that, I went into the Service Mode following the typical process; Detaching the Convertible Top's Rear Material and disconnecting the retaining cables. I did not use the retaining strap to hold the rear window upward, instead per Lorenzo's step I simple move the roof forward and positioned the front of the Convertible Top at a12 inch distance to the front windshield. #3 / #4 - At this point the Convertible Top will not be moved again until one side is totally completed (remember one side at a time) and the Fit Bolt Installed. Since the Convertible Top is not in the full Service Mode I did not use the Retaining Strap but I did use a Cardboard Box to hold the Convertible Top's Rear Window Forward allowing for full visibility and access to the Convertible Top's Left and Right Mounting Base that Lorenzo's Process focuses on. Below is a PIC of the Driver's Side Convertible Top's Mounting Base, you'll see (3) fiber shims underneath the mounting base pushed in the gap snug. I started to remove the most forward 13mm Hex Head Bolt, three "Silver Head Bolts" attaching the mounting base to the chassis. I loosened the most rear bolt to allow for movement. I became very familiar with the Rear Defrost Cable spanning that area, carefully avoiding while loosening the Bolts. As described the Plastic Trim Pieces have to be removed to gain full access. (PIC Below, set one of two) The smaller trim piece is actually attached next to the Roll Bar behind the Driver's and Passenger's Seats which obscures the Mounting Brackets and the other larger piece is attached to the support arms of the Convertible Top Metal Cover. Once you remove the larger Trim Piece you'll be able to reach the bolts. Once the two bolts were removed I called my wife for some assistance, I found it impossible to lift the Convertible Top B-Pillar exposing the Mounting Bracket insertion point and trying to guide the Fit Bolt to that point all at the same time, I must be getting old. So on the count of three the pic below shows the accessibility created by removal of the 2 bolts on the Mounting Base, as you can see the Fit Bolt with it's round flat head (right of Blue Marking) is tightly installed, the B-Pillar will go up another 1/4 inch allowing for easy insertion of the Fit Bolt. #5, #6, #7, #8 all good, good night and good luck

Hi Guys Following this guide, just a quick question do i have to remove the push rods ? kind regards nick

Hey Nick, the guy to ask is @foodbiker - I'm surprised he hasn't jumped in yet. He knows all things about the 987 hardtop.

Thanks Don, Very much appreciated for the pointer Kind Regards Nick

Thanks for your patience, @Nick7602 - Difficult week here and just catching up on things. If I remember correctly, you do not have remove the push rods. Theoretically, you might be able to remove the plastic socket from the ball on each side if you run into trouble -- but I don't think I had to do it. A few key thoughts: 1) When you're inserting that bolt, so it doesn't get lost inside the bowels of the car, create a safely holder so you don't lose it. Take a grocery store plastic produce bag. Drop the bolt into the bag. Barely punch it through the bag so just the bolt pokes out, but the head doesn't. Once the bolt is squarely in place and threaded into the nut, you can then yank on the bag and leave the bolt behind. Otherwise, get ready for a world of pain for potentially losing the bolt. Tape might be another option. 2) Wear work gloves. It is a tight space, and I do remember chopping up my hands trying to do this install. 3) The whole shimming technique actually works, and was MUCH easier to do the second time around as I've owned two cars with these stupid spin locks (that should have come from the factory). Yes, it is a tricky install but you only need just a little bit of clearance to get it right. The more comfortable you get with "service mode," the faster it'll be next time. Ideally, you won't have to worry about getting to the engine much -- they're great engines TBH. 4) Don't permanently remove the soft top. Keep it with the car. Trust me -- you'll look forward to popping the hardtop on/off at each season. You get quiet comfort in the winter, and top-down fun in the summer -- also while changing over dedicated summer/winter tires. You get two cool cars in one. Hope all this proves helpful! Cheers.

hi Foodbiker thank you very much for responding, some good advice there, thanks again. Nick

Worth driving by EPE just to check out the cars they are working on! There's usually a 959 in the front window.

Congratulations - it looks great. What has your experience been regarding putting the top on and taking it off? I'd be worried that the top is heavy and awkward, and risks damaging the body work or paint during yearly installation and removal. Is it a one person job? Do you need a hoist contraption to do it?