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YOUR RESEARCH3.6 Fuel Rail Hose replacement?
Leading reported evidence
Use with a hose or pinch clamps
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I'm thinking a reinforced fuel hose can be used with a hose or pinch clamps but not sure of the pressure being pumped in.
Leading evidence: 'Use with a hose or pinch clamps' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'relay' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check im open' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
I was chasing a no start, figured it was the relay, which I replaced and it ran.
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Suggestion
Any suggestions on other items to check, im open to ideas so I dont blow up the car.
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Suggestion
I highly suggest getting a professional to repair fuel lines...
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30 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Greetings all,
One of my fuel lines connecting the fuel rails together was accidentally cut. It's the hose that's rubber on the outside and plastic on the inside. ID is 9mm. Looks like the plastic is heat shrunk onto the rail. Porsche doesn't appear to sell the hoses separate from the rails themselves. Does anyone have a replacement recommendation? I'm thinking a reinforced fuel hose can be used with a hose or pinch clamps but not sure of the pressure being pumped in. Thanks in advance!
Yogi
It wont be more then the pump will produce so it will be about 60psi. Any rated fuel injection hose will work, make sure u use the fi clamps. They do make barbed unions for that vynal line but its pretty hard to work with.
Fuel lines for fuel injection require specially rated fuel hose and clamps to handle the high pressure. Here is a link to an example of an FI hose clamp.
https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-po...00-000000.html
The nylon fuel line is not heat shrunk onto the barb . The nylon line is warmed and pressed onto the barb.
I have made a wooden clap by bolting two blocks of wood together, and drilling a hole in the parting line a little smaller than the OD of the line to make a clamp. Leaving 3/4" sticking out the end and placing the rig in a small press, warm the nylon and press the barb into the line.
Disclaimer ::: use this technique at your own risk !! I highly suggest getting a professional to repair fuel lines...
My suggestion is to remove the entire length of the plastic line, replace it with the correct diameter rsted fuel line with the correct clamps.
Again u can splice with the correct parts. Start your trip down the rabbit hole. An example.of a repair kit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...RoCWFQQAvD_BwE
I'm resurrecting this post because Summit appears to be a bust. After speaking with them and having them ship me over this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-840306#overview
it doesn't fit. It's slightly too small and according to them it's the largest they have in that size range. I think the problem is the hose barb fitting on both ends, thoughts? Insight, the transfer hoses between bank 1 and bank 2 rails are heat shrunk plastic with a rubber sleeve over it. So either I can find a hose that will fit over barbs or source a like material and recreate the original design.
Again, as I stated above, the nylon hose is not "heat shrunk" onto the barb, the hose/barb are "press-fit" together...meaning the OD of the barb is larger than the ID of the nylon hose, and when pressed together the nylon hose is "swelled" by the larger barb.....
A press creates hundreds/thousands of PSI to create a joint ( depending on material and interferance fit) that is leak free up to high pressures..
Professional Disclaimer ;; information ony, use at your own risk....fire hazard !!
I hear you loud and clear. So how does one get a hose big enough to fit over the barb and be the right size? Know where I can source press to fit, fuel grade hose?
Belmetric has metric hard black polyamide ( nylon) hose sold by the foot for gasoline lines...just measure your old line .
https://belmetric.com/hose/gasoline/?page=2
The press is the hard part, making a press to fit the application. Here is a video of a crude press that worked. Note: a little heat will help the process greatly and need a lot less pressure from the press. ( just don't get carried away with the heat )
Note : pressure test to 4x working pressure or 200 psi afterwards...
You Tube
Professional Disclaimer ;; information only, use at your own risk....fire hazard !!
Depends on which line needs to be replaced, it will be hard to confirm it to the correct shape.
this one looks like a good deal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-03-Por...edirect=mobile
THAT IS A HELL OF A PRICE! thank you!!!! I just bought it. It comes with injectors and the elusive harness clips!!! I don�t even need any of that but selling those injectors will pay for itself.
I get all my hoses for everything done at Parker Hoses and fittings, find one near you. they can't be beat.
http://solutions.parker.com/store-locator-fittings
IIRC he said he has a set of brand new Bosch and a set of new aftermarket fuel injectors in one of his videos.(forgot he'd already purchased the Bosch ones)
Yeah this. I'm going to either have both set of used injectors reconditioned or sell them as-is. Either way, selling them will easily pay for the rail. Still pretty stoked about the buy. Just earlier yesterday I started searching and got discouraged to find them going for 180 and up. So glad you shared that link @
meirschwartz !
The parts arrived today (Sunday). This is a sweet score. All 6 injectors, rails, risers and bracket. Plus a bonus oil cooler line. Injectors cost about 20-30 each to recondition and will easily pay for the other parts. Plus the risers aren�t cheap either.
This is why I love Rennlist. You guys are amazing.
I saw the comment about not cheaping out on fuel system parts. I was chasing a no start, figured it was the relay, which I replaced and it ran. but i had it "fixed" a couple weeks ago and 1 mile from my house it quite on me. I figured while the battery was out I would do the fuel pump. I pulled that out and it looked fine until I saw the electical connector. This picture does not show it well, but it is completely burned and britle, fell apart in my hand. Seems like a bad place to have a short or overheated connector, surprised it did not cause a larger issue if it were hot enough to cook the connector it could have ignited the fuel?
I did test the pump and it seems to run fine. What would have caused the connection to melt?
Ordered a new regualtor to go with it.
Hopefully that is the end of the problem.
Any suggestions on other items to check, im open to ideas so I dont blow up the car.
Bad connection or a faulty pump.
"Burned" and "fuel pump/fuel tank/fuel line/filter" is scary.
Almost lost a 1981 Ford Mustang that way.
Burned and "fuel filter." <shiver!
Intersting, good to know its not the relay or some other part of the system. With a new relay, pump and regulator, hopefully that is the end of it.
It was pretty interesting to see the electrical crumble in a tank of fuel fumes.
Pretty much all the GM cars use similar line. With the proper tools, no heat is used, but since most of us balk at spending 300+ dollars on a fancy pair of pliers... LOL
Another option is to braze a AN connector over the hose bib. Again, not for the inexperienced, but then at least they are replaceable.
Surprising that there are no after market EFI rails for this.. Even if it was just because someone wanted pretty colors..
As noted above.. This is a super bad place for a fuel leak. No such thing as a minor fire if these lines fail, its why Porsche only sells the rails with hoses as a assembly. "Liability"
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.