Cam deviation unchanged after new pads

Yes an other cam deviation question. here�s the story for a 2001 C4. After dropping the oil sump I not only found a good amount of plastic pieces but the swirl pot tube on bank 1 side was also broken. All the plastic pieces probably accumulate in the tube until it the pressure made it crack open. Even the �big cylinder� of the swirl pot was blocked. I was never able to get the piece of guide rail out of it. Time to open the cam cover (bank 1 only). I replaced the 2 guide rail pads and the �tensioner blade�. I was careful to follow all the directions for the timing (Bentley manual and a couple of You Tube video). After all that, the cam deviation is almost the same. Before I had -6.5, now I have -6.04. I�m certainly disappointed but now I wonder what cause the deviation. Did I miss the timing? Could it be the tensioner though it seemed ok when I dunk it in oil and pump a few time? Could it be the sensor? Since I close the cam cover I ran the car twice while on jack stand: at idle until it reach temp. No code, no engine light. Any suggestion or input you could share would be appreciated. I would like to see a lower deviation, not on the upper limit. Or is it just the way the car is and as long as the deviation do not increase all is fine? thanks. Exhaust cam Pointing toward cam cover (bank1 TDC)

I believe your engine is a 5 chain, so you�d need to change the vario cam pads to correct your deviation. It�s the dark brown pad under the small chain, seen below, there�s another one on the bottom of the vario actuator. Do some research when installing as the pads look very similar but are different and need to be installed on the correct of the actuator.

Did u reset the dme. It kind of stores values for the variocam. Dico the battery for 30sec and run the car for a few miles before rechecking.

What are you trying to show with the second picture where the slot is sideways, not up and down?

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*Also of note - the vario-cam pads are actually white/ivory colored when new. They turn caramel/brown over time with exposure to heat and dirty oil� Also per DeJeeper�s rec, do a full ECU reset�

I forgot to add. I have done complete replacement of the whole Variocam Actuator unit ($1,000) several times and found that the deviation only changes 2-3 degrees. It does get you back in spec but it does not get you to zero deviation. My guess is the chain is probably having something to do with it too. There are 5 chains.

Thanks for your reply! Yes i do have a 5 chains but it sounds I wasn�t very clear. I did change the vario cam pads and one chain guide rail because there was debris in the oil sump. I was expecting to see improvement on the deviation angle but nothing. The pictures are only there to show that the I think I got the timing right when I reassembled everyrhing: intake cam notch pointing toward the cover and the exhaust cam slot align with the �line� where the cover split. So if the deviation wasn�t coming from the vario cam pads (and they were definitively worn) then where can it come from. Someone mention the chain. I�m just wondering what to chase next.

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How many miles on the engine? Could the chains simply be stretched a bit? When re-timing, how many chain links did you count between the dots on the cogs? I did a complete engine rebuild with new chains, billet paddle, variocam pads, etc. and could only get to 2 degree deviation. Oh, for the variocam pads, did you position the open hole (for oil) correctly? I believe on one bank, one of the pads with the hole is "down" and on the other bank, "up". Are cam deviations different at idle versus 3500 RPMs?

What’s your mileage? Could be stretched chains.

Yea, your two small chains are worn/lengthened and need to be replaced. How many miles on this engine? If over 50k-75k then new small "single row" chains are needed... The small "single row" chains used in the 5 chain engine will wear/lengthen twice as fast as the long dual row chains used in the 5 chain and 3 chain engines.. Also since the timing procedure is performed on the "exhaust cam" and the "Sensor" is located on the "intake cam" ..The Deviation Spec will not change much unless the pads and small chains are both replaced..

I�m jealous; the rebuilt is on my list for next year. The car is almost 121 000 miles. Yes, I double-triple check the pad position having the hole and o-ring on the right side, counted the number of links between the dot/marking on cam (8 full links at TDC, rotated 360deg got 8 �in-between� links, rotated an other 360deg and back to 8 full links). At idle I get low actual angle which climb to 24-25 deg at 3500rpm so actuators work and camshaft deviations stay stable at -6.13 for bank1 and -3.70 for bank 2. Timing chains had been changed in 2016 (98 000 miles). I tested the solenoid: it clicked and the �plunger� came out! And it had also been replaced in 2016. what was weird is that when disassembling the vario cam is that the �bump stopper� inside the bigger �piston� (with the bigger spring) was missing. Meaning that it can travel down a bit more. And no, I did not loose it, it wasn�t there (bizarre). Leaving the long chain going to intermediate shaft most likely being the culprit or what about the chain adjuster?

I found changing the chains and pads to be very easy...I wrote a check.

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Haha, yes, sadly that is my only option as well. It's overdue from looking at my cam dev. And just mileage, it's time and it's not avoidable. Drive safe and often.