FYI helpful pointers for replacing shift cables with upgraded parts including part #s

During Christmas break I replaced the heavily worn, original shift cables in my recently acquired 2011 Cayman Base with 70K miles. How the OEM cables lasted this long is a mystery, but shift feel was terrible and the shifter wobbled around even after I adjusted the cables and installed metal shift bushing. I passed on the Numeric cables for following reasons: 1) I've been modding and working on cars for decades. I know all too well that aftermarket parts rarely fit perfectly and often are full of compromise. Based on research and discussion with my independent Porsche mechanic, the Numeric cables , while beefy, can create additional NVH even when insulated and even with adjusting, they can create some issues getting into certain gears. I wasn't interested in dealing with any of this. 2) Porsche revised the shift cables AND the 1-6 gear cable (driver's side cable) support on the transmission and the pivot lever that attaches to the shift rod on the transmission. These support and pivot lever revisions did two things, 1) improve the angle of the support at which the cable mounts to reduce stress and the potential of snapping and 2) address all the slop pivot lever that occurs as the rubber bushings in the lever begin to degrade. The Numeric cables do nothing to address the issue with original pivot lever and it's my understanding, the Numeric cables are not compatible with the new pivot lever that is one solid piece of metal and no longer has any bushings. See the images below of the original pivot lever fully disassembled. There are four bushings total that sandwich inside the lever. As these bushing wear, it create 1-2 mm of internal movement which translate to about 1/4" movement at the shift knob. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/********.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/10_83e7f4d1109fa9c0622a782e48acee5e059f3666.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/********.com-vbulletin/1320x2000/11_440644140a1e91b8465121df875da5ed50b0b5e7.jpg After a lot of research on the Porsche forums, very few have gone the OEM replacement route and instead did the Numeric cables thus it was hard to find DIYs on the forums or YT. Hopefully this post and pictures will help those that choose the less common route of sticking with OEM. I found this thread to be the most helpful and provides additional to those wishing to tackle this project: So I just installed the new updated 987.2 shift cables - ******** - Porsche Discussion Forums Parts you'll need 987-424-042-12 Shift Control Cable ($354) 981-424-023-00 Lever ($283) (the "pivot lever") 987-424-065-01 Support ($49) (the "support") Porsche cable alignment tool ($25) A wiper arm puller ($13) Amazon.com The provided link shows the new support, pivot lever, and alignment tool: Shift Cable Update Kit I found the best OEM parts prices at Delaware Porsche. Removing shift cables There are tons of forum and YT videos on this. Watch a lot of them and read up. I found it far easier to remove the MAF sensor to create access to pop out the driver's side cable from the transmission support. I did not pull out and fully remove the MAF or disconnect the sensor, but rather just pushed it over and to the side. The MAF is not easily removed from the engine bay. Removing the driver's side cable support and replacing with the revised version See above. Remove the MAF and the cable support is readily accessible from the engine bay. Remove the single e-torx bit holding it to the transmission and replace with the revised one. Removing the pivot lever and placing with the revised version This is the hardest part of the job as the pivot lever is lightly pressed onto the shift rod of the transmission. Once all the cables and such are unseated from the pivot lever, you need to loosen the 13mm nut on the shift rod of the transmission that goes through the middle of the pivot lever. Loosen the nut so that it's flush with the end of the shift rod. Then take the wiper arm puller and tighten it down to remove the pivot lever. This took a bit of effort because there is minimal area to work, largely due to the slave cylinder and clutch lines being in the way. With some pretty serious effort, the pivot lever broke from the rod. The new pivot lever simple presses on as you tighten down the 13mm nut. See image below of original pivot lever internal pressing point you're fighting against and how the puller would look mounted during removal. Some people have used pry bars and such to remove the pivot lever from the shift rod. That sounds scary to me. Porsche says to use their $200 puller. I found that the $13 puller did just fine. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/********.com-vbulletin/2000x1550/12_9dcabf61fe46539debc1313609c7ecd26ef1a480.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/********.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/13_d8d0dda2b2ef81d44117b450102ba8841a90daa0.jpg Let me know if you have questions and I'll do my best to address.

What a great posting. Thank you for taking the time to provide such detail. I took a look at the shift cables on my 2011 Boxster last year and resigned myself to the idea that one day I would be back with tools in hand. I'm going to print this information out when I get home to eliminate the possibility of losing it! Stop by Sanger, Texas sometime for a free beer.

Happy to help. Ping me with any questions you may have.

Also worth noting....prices on these parts now have gone WAY up.

What an awesome technical contribution. I'm installing the Numeric shifter on my 987.2 and didn't want the original shift lever on the L/S of the transmission to negate any of the benefit. Great advice. Great pics. This is why these forums can be so helpful.

Today, I was able to remove the original lever (987.424.023.00) on the L/S of my M/T. I can say that XuTVJet's recommendation on the wiper arm puller from Amazon is great advice. As he mentioned, there is very little room to work. The puller is stout enough so as not to break or lose grip, and small enough to fit in the cramped quarters. I just don't see how you can gorilla the lever off with a pry bar and not risk causing damage. Use the puller . It's tricky, but patience and persistence will reward you.

I'm glad to hear that it worked out for you. Did you get a big "bang" when the pivot lever finally released?

Today, I received my upgraded shift lever and got going right away with the installation. Adding to XuTVJet's super-informative advice, I have a tip for anyone planning to do this same job: I've read several times that others have had trouble reattaching the plastic bar that crosses the top of the transmission, and connects the lever on the left side of the transmission with the lever on the right side. Porsche calls this a "joint rod", part # 987-424-131-10. I had no trouble at all. I used a carefully placed pair of water pump pliers on the top of the connector, and at the bottom of the nut that holds the lever to the transmission (pics below). One very moderate squeeze and the connector snapped into place. After reassembly was complete, I took the car out for a test spin. Even with OEM Porsche cables, there is a significant improvement in the way the car shifts. It feels notchy, more direct and mechanical, and not cushioned, if that makes sense. This was absolutely worth doing in my opinion. My next project is a Numeric shifter install. I'm thinking the shift feel will get even better.

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I started doing this as well this weekend - got stuck trying to remove the pivot lever since I only had a Pittman arm puller and that’s too chunky to fit around it so waiting for an overnight order from Amazon on the wiper puller . In case anyone was wondering here is a comparison of the ’support’, new P/N (987-424-065-01) on left and the original on the right. Got the kit from Suncoast and shipping box was taller than my garage door hopefully I’ll get this wrapped up tomorrow. While I had the car on jack stands also changing the transmission fluid ( OEM ); drained the old one and came out super clean so good to know the PO was on top of maintenance.

Well, this was anticlimactic… Got the pivot lever uninstalled using the wiper arm puller (thanks @XuTVJet !) and turns out the PO at one point had already upgraded it as what I removed was also P/N 981-424-023-00. Also checked the cables and other than being a bit dirty they move smoothly, there is no fraying and the P/N is 987-424-042-12. Oh well… Not sure why they did not replace the ‘support’ bracket while doing the rest, go figure. Shifting on this car was always very good and I thought this was difference between the 6 speed vs. the 5 speed I had on the 987.1 so now I know! Will put the old/new design pivot lever up so sale at 50% off from retail in case anyone wants to save a few $; if local can also include the cables too (broke one of the clips that attach to the support bracket so will need to be zip tied for added security). Also found out that I’m ~0.2 liters short on the transmission fluid so have another 1L of the unicorn juice on order from FCP Euro. Projects dragging on and unnecessary expenses can be frustrating but at least I know everything is fresh now. New one on right and what was already installed on left…

Ill grab the old/new style lever from you!

*found my answer above

Has anyone done this with the updated brackets on a 987.2 with an IPD plenum ? At that point right now, you just can’t get the angle on the new shift cables with the redesigned bracket. Done with everything except attaching that drivers cable, but after playing for about 2 hours now I’m nowhere. I could force it on and make it fit, but the “S” shape the cable makes is too close to the support end where it’s the rigid part of the cable and doesn’t want to bend that much, and I don’t want to force it. Maybe I’ll get lucky and someone with a 82mm IPD plenum has seen this before also. I might end up having to put the original non revised bracket on, and just keep the new cables and pivot.

It will fit with the IPD plenum , I ended up removing the throttle body and aluminum pipe to the plenum itself, run the new cables, and then force everything on the plenum back together. Adds another level of frustration for sure though.

I wonder why the updated levers are not compatible with the 2006 Boxster S … I was seriously contemplating this, but then I went to the Suncoast parts URL, and my specific year is the cut off point :[

I just ordered the Suncoast retrofit kit with the cables. $795 for the levers and cables, not too bad considering. I'll install on my 08 987.1 and report back.

Thanks so much for this detailed information! Hoping to resurrect this thread. I am hoping that you can answer two questions: 1) Were you able to access and remove both the new bracket and the lever from the top by moving (not removing) the MAF under the airbox? 2) When removing the lever from the shift rod using the wiper puller, did you leave the nut on the end of the rod so as not to damage the rod threads with the puller (the nut has to come off to remove the original lever, correct?)?

I meant old bracket

Thank you very much for sharing this information- super helpful!!

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Hey I’ve watched a lot of your video, great stuff. Can I ask does anyone know what is compatible with the 2005/2006 Boxster S ? I can’t seem to find info on that specific car.

I'm trying to understand the differences in the mechanism between the old and new pivot lever. It seems the old one uses rubber bushings to transmit force from the outer housing teeth to the inner housing teeth, which turns the shift rod. While in the new version, the teeth on the outer housing are eliminated and replaced by 3 slots, and the new inner housing teeth have nubs that fit inside the slots, which create metal to metal contact for force transfer and has no play. Am I correct in my assessment?

Yes, you are correct. The new lever is essentially one piece, and therefore transmits all the force applied to the shifter without the "cushioning" of the original lever. Night and day difference in the shift feel.