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YOUR RESEARCHWintering 996 - tips and tricks?
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Use ctek
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Read evidence and context
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I've used my CTEK for months at a time through the cigarette lighter with no issues.
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Suggestion · Original poster
i read that works but only if you�re checking on it frequently.
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Suggestion · Original poster
5) also planning to put the cars on tire savers but read recently that it's not a big deal provided you have the tires inflated to recommended PSI
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Suggestion
if something happens to the charger and battery goes dead very easy then to change the battery..
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Suggestion
Some people are adamant about changing oil immediately before storing, but as long as I've had a recent oil change I don't worry about it.
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Suggestion
......, I use a 7 iron from my back-up set of golf clubs to keep the frunk partially open if it's going to be on a battery tender for more than 2 weeks.
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I live in south central Wisconsin and have two 996s to winter this season: a '99 and and an '02. A few questions for the cold-weather 996 drivers:
1) do you all trickle your battery or remove it? I have CTEK battery maintainers and the leads stand up so I would need to keep the front trunk lid open and exposed in my storage garage (unheated).
2) I have irish spring soap bars for the perimeter of the garage, but do any of you put soap bars in the car? If so, where?
3) I have steel wool for the tailpipes but do you put it anywhere else?
4) planning to put large mats under the car for a vapor barrier - good idea? any reason not to?
5) also planning to put the cars on tire savers but read recently that it's not a big deal provided you have the tires inflated to recommended PSI
Any other tips and tricks are very welcome. Thanks!
P.S. I honestly don't know what I'll do now that I can't drive these cars for the next 3-4 months....
The soap detracts mice and other critters - they hate the smell.
I'm worried about the salt from the roads spraying up into the unprotected engine which is mainly why I'm wintering them.
Route the leads by the windshield. That way you can close the frunk. I have the leads permanently connected to my battery and just stuff the wire harness out of the way in the driving season. Come winter time I take the battery cover off and pull the harness out by the windshield, connect the battery maintainer, and close the frunk. In salty NH my car doesn't see roads until spring time.
if you storing I personally like leaving the frunk closed but not shut.. if something happens to the charger and battery goes dead very easy then to change the battery.. just my thoughts .. luckly I don't have to wintereize everything.. I just don't drive it in bad weather if I can avoid it and use my other car for that stuff..
......, I use a 7 iron from my back-up set of golf clubs to keep the frunk partially open if it's going to be on a battery tender for more than 2 weeks.
Battery tender, not trickle charger. Leave battery in car. Close frunk so that the frunk light does not stay on.
Inflate tires correctly.
Fresh oil change.
Full tank of fuel with good quality stabilizer.
I routed the emergency release cable through the tow hook hole. So if for some reason my battery tender fails and the battery goes flat I can remove the bumper plug and grab the cable. Luckily my car is in the garage so I will see if the battery tender stopped charging/maintaining.
Now if someone asks what I am going to do if I need a tow, well, haven't thought that one through yet!
I started using �mice dice�. A cube with cotton inside that you fill up with peppermint oil. One on either side of the battery and I also built a chicken wire frame over the air filter. Works well so far. Also, a trickle charger plugged into the the lighter socket. I also drive mine year round weather pending.
i read that works but only if you�re checking on it frequently. If your experience is different I�d like to hear more. My storage space is about 15 mins from home.
Maintainer through cig lighter. Frunk lid popped but resting on latch...just in case(removed tiny worthless light bulb years ago). Tires pumped up to just below max on sidewall. Bounce sheets placed as per mention above. Mouse traps in garage. Fresh oil/filter. At least weekly pats on the front fender as I walk through the garage.
I don't know about your mice in Wisconsin but Montana mice just ignore Irish Spring soap. I'm trying traps and dryer sheets this winter while my car naps. Also, yes to battery tender. I also add 10% more air to the tires and move the car a couple of feet every time I go in the shop. Now excuse me while I go plow the drive.
One way to do it is to have the connector (eg. Defa Miniplug) outside of the car - of course the downside is that you need to attach it somehow inside the bumber. That's a common thing in Finland though. I have that but as I have a heated garage I installed that so that the connector is through the frunk matt as I can keep the trunk lid ajar.
This might help ->
https://www.defa.com/ca/warmup-heating-charging-system/
When I first used it on my 996 C4S, I would check it once a week. Never an issue. After the first winter, I just left it plugged in to the cigarette lighter socket the whole winter without checking. Did that for 14 years.
As a fellow Sconnie (Madison), I did the following this winter:
Oil change
Wash
Car cover
Unplug battery (my apartment garage doesn't have outlets so I can't trickle charge)
Leave frunk ajar (I'm tired of jumping the fusebox to get to my dead battery at the end of every winter)
Slightly over-inflate tires
Wheel chocks (so don't need hand brake)
If your battery does die on you, I'd recommend getting a replacement at Blaine's Farm and Fleet. Way less expensive than the auto parts stores and they have a great warranty.
To get you through the next 3-4 months get a beater subaru and hope it's a cold winter so you can bring it ice racing.
It is unclear from what I�ve read so far ��- where do you exactly put the drying sheets or soap for rat deterrence?
I replaced my oil about 500 miles ago �- do I need to replace it again before storing?
Do you have a heated garage? If so, start that bad girl up once a week and go for a drive on cleared roads! That's the BEST winter plan for these cars.
@wisco3/98
Nice and welcome to the 996 club. Seems the 996 population around town has been growing recently which is great to see.
@Carlo D
that's fine. Some people are adamant about changing oil immediately before storing, but as long as I've had a recent oil change I don't worry about it.
@jobyt
they salt the roads pretty heavily around here all winter so it's best to wait for it to rain off the salt before taking the cars out. Although with how the weather's been that might actually happen this winter!
I put mine in the frunk, 2 in the interior and a couple in the engine compartment. Steel wool goes in the exhaust tips and the air intake with a sheet. Tape over the ignition switch with a written reminder as to where the mice deterrents are located (I'm old). I will put fresh sheets in around the end of Feb.
This is really all you need. Especially in Wisconsin, where you�re likely to only have the car sit for 2 months at a time. Even in winter, there are nice days without snow or salt and it will be a nice day for a drive.
MUST SEE for those of us in the snow belt who store our cars
What you need to know about fuel and additives for your Porsche | Tech Tactics Live - YouTube
Anecdotally, I think that if there is a power failure, even brief, the Porsche ctek requires that a button be pressed to start charging again. I have very infrequent power failures and since I'm in the garage regularly driving the daily, I was look to see the "green" light on versus the red/organge.
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