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YOUR RESEARCHShifting
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adjustment of the cable ends and i will work
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I suspect that the biggest issue is adjustment of the cable ends and I will work that before spending $400 +/- for performance cables.
Leading evidence: 'adjustment of the cable ends and i will work' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'adjustment of the cable ends and i will work' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Use two cables' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Can someone explain how the shifter functions? 6 forward gears plus reverse using two cables.
The question I am trying to solve is where the 2nd - 3rd hang happens.
Thanks in advance.
Langg
I have read that. I have also read that motor mounts fix it. I want to understand how two cables shift 6 forward and one reverse gears. What is special about the 2 to 3 transition that it is affected?
Lang
Two cables work to move shifting forks which slide clutch sleeves into and out of engagement with the various gear clusters. In moving the shift lever over or to the center position or over to the far right position different shift forks are engaged.
(I have no link handy but there are animated graphics that detail the basic shifting operation of a manual transmission that shows the well, basic operation.)
AFAIK there is nothing "special" about the 2 to 3 transition other than of course one moves the lever sideways to engage the 2/3 shift fork. But one also moves the shift level sideways to engage the 5/6 shift fork when shifting from 4th to 5th.
The shifter's adjustment and overall mechanical health is paramount to ensure the engagements are correct.
Do not forget there is a clutch involved in all of this shifting and its action must be correct as well. Believe it or not old clutch fluid can affect clutch action which in turn can affect shifting. Do not skimp on that 2 year clutch (and brake) fluid flush and bleed.
In the shifter there is the cable for front to back (right cable) and the side to side action is also converted to front to back or (push / pull) via the rocker mechanism in the shifter(left cable).
adjustment of one little "tooth" either way makes a significant change.
so the side to side selects which gate or shift fork is actioned, R, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 and the front to back selects which one within that gate is selected.
Going from 2nd to 3rd is a combo action of side to side and of course a front to back moving through the centering springs of the shifter. I agree with above that old clutch hydraulic / brake fluid can slow or limit the clutch disengage efficiency. and a combination of sloppy linkage and ham fisted shifting will get things in a bind.
Thanks everyone. I think I better understand.
My brake/clutch fluid was new last September. The B&M shifter is almost new (last winter project). I suspect that the biggest issue is adjustment of the cable ends and I will work that before spending $400 +/- for performance cables. I am unsure of the benefit of new mounts as long as the cable ends are secure but I've got it in my mind to change to semi-solid (harder than stock) anyway.
Thanks again.
Lang g
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