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YOUR RESEARCHPorsche 996 C2 ?hlins coilovers installation
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it is basically a **** installed on a wire similar to an odometer cable.
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i believe the measurements needs to be taken with the assembly installed on the car.
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I installed a set of Ohlins Coil Overs Road & Track on my 996 Turbo.
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I can't comment on the Ohlins (how do you make those little dots over the 'o'?) but I did install Bilstein PSS10 and I used the stock drop links.
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Hi guys.
In the process of installing �hlins road and track POZ M100 on my car.
I will update This post with some pics and tips for the installation process once I done.
At the moment, I have completed the installation of the rear.
I followed the instructions, and confirmed measurements few times.
Also, the instructions that comes with the kit, are a bit different then the ones online.
I will refer to that later, when I will update the post.
At this point, I’m unable to connect the rear drop link to the sway bar.
I was under the impression that I’m supposed to use the originals. Is that right, or I need to get adjustable ones?
will appreciate input from anyone running this setup.
Thanks in advance.
Meir.
I can't comment on the Ohlins (how do you make those little dots over the 'o'?) but I did install Bilstein PSS10 and I used the stock drop links. I suspect the answer depends on your ride height too. I am at GT3 street specs on that car.
I can only speak for H&R�s. OEM rear drop links worked just fine. You did have to pre set the height. It has an adjustable threaded collar. Front definitely required adjustable links.
Thanks for the comments guys.
i did set the ride hight per the manual.
Total length of the coilover should be 435mm, and the ride height should be 335 from the button of the fender to the center of the wheel.
That is exactly were I�m at. From here I should have 10 mm to go higher or lower.
At any case the drop link should connect.
As it seats, the only way i see it connecting is by raising the car that extra 10mm to the max height.
But even then, i can�t see it working when the suspension compress.
And by the why, I just typed �hlins and the iPad added the dots
Big thanks for documenting all of this, I have a fresh set that I am taking to the shop probably next week. Let me know which instructions are the best to let them at the shop know to start with.
If you�re changing the ride height, the stock non-adjustable links won�t work - at least without preloading the sways... do yourself a favor, get adjustable links and save yourself the headaches...
No problem. I�m sure I will save you a lot of time.
I spent almost 6 hours on the first corner (including jacking the car, removing interior parts and reassembling the coil 3 times
) . The second took an hour.
The instructions that comes with the kit are very minimal. I also couldn�t find a good DIY online.
I see people taking half of the car apart, which is not necessary. Not for the rear at least.
I sent an email to the �hlins support as well. I hope to complete this project next weekend.
I messed up on my onlins installation in the rear and set to much pre load in the rear. The collar that connects the sway bar should be pushed up quite a bit. You let the car sit at its standard height you should be able to install the end links into the collar without any manipulation. (zero preload) I read the measurements wrong and got confused from the two different supplied numbers and set mine too low. Resulting in the end link bolt breaking off into the collar. I didn't need aftermarket end links at all. In the front it might be nice. In the rear with the adjustable collar it seems fine to me now.
thank you mrdeezy.
this is very valuable information.
as mentioned in previous post, i found conflicting information between the online manual and the manual that came with the kit.
here are both side by side.
so it's clear that the preload is different between the two, but the overall measurement of the assembly is the same.
i went with the online settings, because it made more sense. if i will mount the stabilizer bracket farther up (as suggested in the "kit manual"), i will be even farther away.
let me get the car back up, and repeat the measuring.
I find the labels confusing, preload doesn't make any sense to me unless the shock is at full travel. The car's weight it static, so with the wheels on the ground, there is no dynamic load. I know it is a spring and can compress under dynamic load, but for this purpose, I think we have to think of it as a static length, once loaded. Moving the collar that supports the spring up will raise your static ride height, and lowering it will reduce your ride height. Or maybe I am misunderstanding.
None of this helps with your anti sway bar links though. Sorry.
OK. the good news, problem is solved.
the bad news, i'm an idiot.
let's start from the end. the sway bar was probably binding on something.
it could even be that it was hitting the drop link on one end, when i was trying to fit the other side
i guess 8 hours in a garage with 100 degrees and 100% humidity will get to you. a classic case of walk away and come back the next day.
with that said, i remeasured the assembly, and the measurements were off. i believe the measurements needs to be taken with the assembly installed on the car.
(i measured and adjusted the assembly on a bench)
not sure if installing the wheels and lowering the car, and reising it back up made any difference.
2 observations.
1.now that i'm 100% positive i got the preload and the height measurements correct, i'm missing 5mm in the total height of the assembly.
2. looks like mrdzee is right. now that i got the droplinks connected, looks like the stabilizer bracket should be installed a bit higher.
1+2 leads me to believe that i should follow the instructions provided with the kit.
i'll call tomorrow to ohlins tech support to confirm before i button up the rear, and move to the front.
you are absolutely correct. changing the preload settings will not affect the length of the shock.
with that said, if i would like to get to the base measurements, i need to start with the correct preload measurements. the height measurements, are taken with relations to the lower part of the spring.
Ok guys. We made some progress, I called �hlins USA tech support today.
Mistery is solved with regards to the correct installation instructions.
The tech guy instructed me to look at the last page of each manual.
looks like the one that came with the kit is from 2012, and the online version is from 2015.
So I will probably continue the installation following the online instructions.
With that said, I just realized that tuneRS Motorsports are authorized �hlins dealer. This is the place we�re I was planing to go for alignment.
They are literally less then a mile from me. I logged to their website to schedule an appointment, but I think I will stop by Thursday or Friday morning to ask few questions.
According to tech support, the difference in measurements has to do we the fact that they change the size of the lower cup.
Now the question is, what the size should be for each instructions?
it is not that crucial for me, as I have to drive a mile, and They can do the final adjustments for me with they do the alignment, but I really want to sort it out.
I will keep you guys posted.
Another question I hade, was about the size of the rubber boots I needed to cut.
It looks extremely short to me. Tech guy .... his name was Ryan. So let�s call him Ryan... so Ryan said, that once installed on the car, and compressed, the boot will cover the shock. The don�t want it to be too long, so it doesn�t rub on the O-rings. Doesn�t make much sense to me, but this is the first time I�m dealing with coilovers. Will run that question by the guys TuneRS.
This is how it looks searing on the shock, out of the car.
The Ohlins install guide mentions needing;
"wire adjuster. Part numbers:
24631-01" for cars equipped with Bose sound systems.
Does anyone know what is this?
Yes.
the adjuster **** for the rebound, is located on the top of the shock on the rear. that means that once you install the subwoofer back, it will not be accessible. so if you believe you will change the adjustment frequently, you can replace the **** with an extension.
it is basically a **** installed on a wire similar to an odometer cable.
you should be able to find the parts here:
https://3dmmotorsport.com/collection...ck-spare-parts
the ohlins ones are expensive. about $200 for the set.
for the feal you can find it much cheaper.
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...8aAmLjEALw_wcB
since i have no intention of playing with the adjustment a lot (the car is ment for DD), i will leave the subwoofer off for few days, until i will find my prefer adjustments.
after that, i will probably fabricate something myself. just for the fun of it.
So i stopped this morning at TuneRS.
unfortunately, the owner, which is also the alignment expert, is out of the country, and coming back only next week.
so i did not get any answers for my questions.
with that said,the shop frontman said the the measurements are not that important, as they are going to adjust it anyway during alignment.
these guys are specializing in suspension tune ups, and have special acoupmant. it's not going to be cheap, although i just need a street setup.
in theory, if i was 100% positive on the measurements, i could have gone to any alignment shop.
here is their alignment from their website.
also, for someone who is interested, they are Ohlins dealers (which i didn't know), and sale this kit for $2375. which is $350 cheaper that what i paid.
https://tunersmall.com/product/ohlin...-kit-poz-mi00/
anyware i looked was $2725.
so tonight i wish to continue with the installation, hoping to complete it this weekend.
i will probably continue with the online installation, but before i do, i will appreciate if one of you guys who has the kit on hand, cand do me two small favores.
1. can you please look at the last page of the manual that you have in the kit, and let me know the date on it?
2. can you please take a measurement of the cup size as shown in the attached pic?
thanks in advance.
Great thread as I have just ordered a set of R&T for my C4S.
Are these measurements installed on the car with the weight of the car loading the springs?
i didn't try the feal.
i just got some random extensions (i think i paid $45 for the set) and fabricated new ends.
gave me a reason to use the lathe for the first time.
the aluminum part is the one that came with the extension, the brass ones i made.
No need to make another set. you can have main.
I used it for the first couple of week after the coilovers installation, to get the adjustment to my liking, and removed them.
i do not track my car, so no point for me playing with the adjustments once i found my sweet spot.
PM me your address. i'll ship it to you.
just to be clear, these will not work exactly as the originals from Ohlins.
the Ohlins have a clicking mechanism that is stationary. with these the brass part will need room to spin.
I installed a set of Ohlins Coil Overs Road & Track on my 996 Turbo. My car has the BOSE speaker system in the back. I bought a set of wire adjusters (exstensions) because the BOSE speakers cover access to the adjusters on the shocks. I cannot find any installation instructions, from Ohlins, online, YouTube or otherwise.
Mounting options as I see it.
1.) Keep the adjuster straight, drill a hole through the speaker horn and the **** would be about 4" above the surface.
2.) Route the **** out the front of the speaker base facing the front of the car. This would require a somewhat sharp 90 degree bend in the adjuster.
3.) Route the adjuster to the left of the speaker base and then mount it against the left side. This would require an "S" bend in the wire adjuster. Then repeat for the right side.
Has anybody installed the wire adjusters with the BOSE speaker bases?
Thanks, Warren
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