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YOUR RESEARCHEnclosed trailer for 996
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Run 20' 7k haulmark
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I use race ramps to reduce entry angle works well even for my 996 SuperCup which is very low up front, I do also have a substantial sway bar system, a bit tight getting out of driver side door but very doable.
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I would look at the open trailex's used for about $8k.
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I use race ramps to reduce entry angle works well even for my 996 SuperCup which is very low up front, I do also have a substantial sway bar system, a bit tight getting out of driver side door but very doable.
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Anyone haul their 996 in an enclosed trailer? Would like to hear options. I would like something as small as possible. 996 is roughly 16ft long and 6ft wide. Weighs about 3000lbs. Will use the trailer for other purposes as well. Is my only concern fitment and how much weight the axles can handle? I know it will need to be dual axle. Mucho gracias!
Well u need room for tie downs so figure 22-24'. U may also want a little room for spare parts and tools. I would also suggest 5k lb axles minimum. Twin 3.5k axles just dont have enough strength and u never want to run at capacity. Parts wear out much faster when run at 100%. Also u need width beween fenders not overall, but I think most enclosed r standard width anyways.
Head out to the first track day in your region and take a look around. As DJ said, you will learn a few things on what to look for and what not to get. Someone may have one for sale as well.
I run a 20' 7k Haulmark with E rated tires. Car, extra set of tires, tools, alu jack, tent, chairs, ramps, 30ga of fuel. All in about 7k. Used a hitch scale to set the toung weight. No problems in many years of towing. I keep the speed below 70ish.
Thanks for that info. Very helpful. So another rabbit trail. What's your benefit of towing? Do you go all over the country? I've got probably $37k in an almost perfect low mileage 996. So it's not that I'm trying to protect the investment. It's not that much. I'm more thinking of towing so that if I break down I have another vehicle as backup and also maybe to save some miles on the 996, but I'm not sure I even care about that. I'm sitting at 40k miles. I bought the car to drive. Any other reasons you haul vs just driving to events. If you track, then I understand tires, tools, jacks, etc. Sounds like that's what you do. I don't plan to track. Just going to fun driving events - most several hours / day away
Well.... Way back when, I drove to the track, had a break down and that led to a hassel. So, first up was a open trailer, then a track only car, then enclosed trailer. Its a pretty standard tale of jumping with both feet off the slippery slope. Pretty certain many here have the same story
Just don't add up the reciepts.
Been towing my 996 race car for years with tools, spares scooter, etc. in a 20 foot V Nose Express trailer mostly with my F150 3.5 Eco Boost pickup. Longest tow was Florida to COTA no issues I think the careful attention to tongue weight and weight distribution within the trailer is the key to a smooth tow.
Rich
If you are just towing the 996, no tools, nothing else - you definitely need to make sure your tongue weight is correct. Too much weight behind the trailer wheels, and too little tongue weight is recipe for disaster. Check out this good demonstration video.
You Tube
-Tom
Take this with a grain of salt because I�ve never trailered a car with an enclosed, but I have plenty of experience with enclosed trailers. My last 16x8.5 V nose was wide enough to fit our car in between the wheel wells inside, it came with tie down points in the floor, it was technically considered a �car hauler� however it would be super snug, if not impossible with even a small car like ours. So be cautious when it�s labeled a �car hauler�. Plus you want room for ancillary items as well. I would have to imagine a 20� or 22� length would be adequate. Figure trailer plus loaded weight of around 8k, you need to have something that can handle that, and the tongue weight. That is into newer 1/2 ton territory or older 3/4 ton and IMO 3/4 ton is the way, just for the added feeling of security especially when braking. My Ram 2500 was an absolute tank, many, many miles towing and plowing. And that was with the 6.4 hemi.
although I will say the Ford 150 with the 3.5 eco boost can tow very well. I�ve pulled my hydraulic dump trailer with one often which routinely weighs in around 8-9k loaded. But again, it�s not so much how the truck does pulling and cruising with the weight, it�s most important how the truck does stopping with the weight .
no issues there, that�s for sure! Where are you located? Locked & Loaded Trailers in NJ is my go-to trailer guy, he always treated me right and always has inventory.
I own a 2021 enclosed Trailex. Tows like a dream and it's towed all of my cars from Dodge Omni's to my now sold, Ferrari Challenge car. The only downside is my trailer now has an MSRP of about $38,000
You can buy trailers of all shapes and sizes and weights and price ranges. I'm a big trailex fan. Why do you need enclosed? I would look at the open trailex's used for about $8k.
I bought enclosed because one of my race cars didn't have windows.
Yes, I have determined that I'm going to go the open trailer route, mainly due to cost and amount of use at the moment. I'd love an enclosed trailer at some point - it has multiple other uses as well. I will look into Trailex open trailers. Thanks!
The trailer above is an 8' wide trailer. Length 20' means that is a pretty darn big trailer. An enclosed trailer will cost a lot more that an open flatbed or whatever they are called. True, the newer smaller diesels will pull something like this, say around 7500#-8000#. Gas/diesel mpgs will suck, but those trucks will do it. I have a Chev 2021 3.0 Duramax + 7'x14' V-nose and it can do it easily (comes std with tow package). However, there ARE pitfalls. This truck is my 2nd "attempt". I had a Chev Colorado with the 2.8 mini-Duramax. It pulled the trailer just fine. However, it was narrower than the trailer so I could not see behind me. Good truck with Tow Package, but no big mirrors available. Drat, get a bigger truck. Now the Chev 1500 with 3.0 Duramax is just fine, and can see around a 7' trailer. If it was an 8' trailer, no deal, need the giant square mirrors. Towing is very small % of actual use, so giant mirrors cost mpgs for DD. Usual mpg empty is 25-29 town, 29-33 highway. Towing my trailer w/ ATV, kayak, full interior camp stuff (like a regular trailer) is about 14-16 mpgs. Tongue weight is not the only item when you go heavier (car+trailer). Add weight distribution hitch, make trailer level front>>back, load weight correct - probably back in trailer= weight forward. You can put other tools, BS in the bed of truck, nice if you have "cap-shell" on it (I do). Another thing to keep in mind, can you open the door to get in/out of car in or on the trailer? Side rails on open trailer are a problem. Front lip on Pcar make it up a ramp angle? Yes there needs to be space for tie-downs. The trailer needs to be independent of truck when parked somewhere at an event. You don't want to drain the truck battery so that the "electric trailer front foot" won't operate or kill the truck battery. Not me, but I've seen this happen. Again a bigger truck is nice, for towing, but a smaller truck engine that can do the job (i.e. diesels) towing and be reasonable the other 98% of time is better, JMO.
YMMV
I use race ramps to reduce entry angle works well even for my 996 SuperCup which is very low up front, I do also have a substantial sway bar system, a bit tight getting out of driver side door but very doable. Towing this setup since 2011 with no issues keeping trailer, truck, brakes in good order and my truck was optioned with tow package including rear end ratio, electric brake controller, tow mirrors, etc.
Rich
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