Boxster Motor Mount Tips & Pointers - Page 2 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

The Engine mount, commonly referred to as the motor mount, is the most important stabilization device for the engine in the Boxster. With a deteriorating mount, there will be jerky shifts, rumbling noises while turning, and excessive idle vibration. You can see a video of a broken motor mount here: You'll have to excuse me as I'm fairly new to making videos. And the comparison of a new mount here: I found the guides posted on Pelican and Pedro's guide to be good, but leaving out some useful parts and tips. I wrote these short pointers and tips to aid and help fellow forum members save some time and make the job easier. As with any jobs with working under the car, I recommend wearing some gloves to avoid the scraped knuckles you will get underneath out confined cars. Guides referenced: Install Front Engine Mount Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Boxster Motor Mounts - 986 / 987 First off, jack up the car on all four jacking points. Both guides say you can back the car up on ramps but, as Mark Twain puts it, "There are Lies, damned lies, and statistics". Do not even try to do this job just using ramps, it will save you a lot of pain and anguish. The rear underside is held in place with 10mm plastic nuts. Here's a better picture of the motor mount location. Here's what I found: The only time you can feasibly use a socket wrench is when undoing the engine case from the underside chassis of the car. The engine mount, affixed to the engine, can be removed with combination wrenches, mostly with the box side. Note that all measurements for the nuts and bolts used are 15mm. The engine casing bolts removed. (They are 7mm bolt the nuts are 15mm) I found the easiest way to get out the mount as seen in this picture. I found if you rotate it upside down, it's a lot easier to maneuver out. Keep in mind to label the bolts and make sure you don't get them mixed up. In the event you do: There are 3 long bolts and 1 short bolt. The short bolt goes in the upper right hole, the three go in the bottom right, bottom left, and upper left hole. Remember to document and label points well; it's even a good idea to take pictures. Yes, it's quite possible to install the the numerous components backwards!!! Removing the engine mount from the engine casing: Old vs. New *Use loctite blue thread-locker on the threads when reinstalling the mount, these mounts go through a lot of vibration, so you don't want these things coming loose!* When you're putting in the bolts back into the mount, it can be a bit tricky. You'll have to lower the engine up and down to find the perfect fit. For instance, the lower left bolt is impossible to place unless you lower the engine a few inches. For the upper bolts, I could squeeze my hand in the cavity behind the engine casing and turn the bolts by hand until they had to be tightened by box end wrench. I then reinstalled everything in reverse order, and enjoyed my new mount! The difference is indeed night and day. Trivia: *For those of you curious, my Porsche dealership quoted me $600+ tax for the job. *Technically the Boxster uses an engine mount. Engines use internal combustion, while motors use alternative propulsion e.g. electricity. The usage of motor/engine mount depends on geography, but the later use of motor mount is more favorable as it rolls off the tongue easier.

If any forum member has any questions or is stuck, please ask away. I also encourage any forum members to add any tips or advice they have when they did their mount to help out people who have never done this before!

Good write up Kenny! The difference is INDEED Night & Day! Thanks for the help!

Just finished installing the Lemforder motor mount. Went pretty well.....One question though. I have a small amount of play in my shifter, only about 1/4 inch or so, but definite movement. This occurs in any gear moving along when you take your foot all the way off the gas pedal and when you put your foot back into it. I am assuming this has to do with some engine and transmission torque movement but I am wondering if this is normal movement or should I be looking into something else? Great write up by the way!

Great info! Just curious, how long did this take you?

excellent DIY - ended up enjoying some youtube vids while I was here! Are you sure you have to lower the engine ' a few inches' ? this would probably be bad for the tranny mounts- no? Was it only 1 inch? Either way, nice work.

Quotes source post: 345271

Yes, the engine was lowered to remove the mount. No damage to the tranny mounts. Should be fine as long as you do it slowly, and while supporting the engine.

im doing the trans mount and engine mount at the same, is it a good thing? do i need to do one before the other? im installing wevo stuff on all components

Doing all the mounts can be nothing but a good thing. Don't think it should matter to do one before the other, but I would to the motor mount first.

ive changed all 3 plus a new lower thermostat, all at the same time im going to have a hell of a race car

Hey Kenny Boxster. Thank you for taking the time to do this right up! One question for you: Were you able to torque all the bolts and nuts in such a tight area when reinstalling?? Thanks!

Glad someone found this 1.5 yr old post and replied, this is GREAT info! Loved seeing the videos, especially your bare feet! :-)

Yes this is a great write up along with Pedro's DIY. I was able to get the mount out with ease. The only problem I'm have is getting a socket on the upper left bolt (passenger side) that connects the mount to the engine.The two bolts that hold the mount to the yolk are directly in the way. I need to torque the bolts to 34 ft/lbs when installing the new mount. I'll see how it goes tonight. Note: Mechanical scissor jack is the best way to lower the engine. Works great!

Sorry..I couldn't get the picture to upload properly.

to Kenny Boxster for this excellent DIY. I found it very easy to manoeuvre the mount in its small confines without having to work around four studs in the way to catch up on. I had the old mount/yoke assembly unbolted, new mount installed and the mount/yoke assembly reinstalled in just under an hour. Time for a beer.

Looks like I am going to be doing a motor mount as well. Have the 2800-3000rpm vibration on decel as well. I just want to double check what PN to use. It looks like 987-375-023-05 is the most recent version? Other posts I looked at called out 987-375-023-04 but I can not find this for sale online.

Quotes source post: 566831

Either will be fine. This isn't a terribly difficult job, just be patient and take your time!

And to add, the upper two bolts do not have to be completely removed. You will see the way the mount works when you get the replacement. Also, no need to undo any coolant hoses, though it would be easier overall. Be careful not to break the plastic coolant hose clamps. It requires some maneuvering to get out, and as mentioned, patience. But is very doable. And, it can be done with just the rear off the ground, just put your jack stands under the rear "V" suspension mounts and be good to go. Also, the four star bolts of the plastic fairing/cover are T27... an oddball in most kits. These are worth their weight in gold working on these cars.... https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN77164-Flex-Head-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B01F512HOU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1522726408&sr=8-12&keywords=long+flex+head+ratchet

So what’s the proper way to align the engine mount’s bracket to the car body (adjustable via slotted holes before tightening mounting bolts) after replacing and reinstallaton? I found when I did mine, the slotted holes seemed to want to “settle” in a different position than they were originally installed. I wasn’t sure to try and let it settle naturally and try tighten there, or try and pre-load it before tightening (e.g. to try and center it in the slots, or reinstall in the original position). Nice diy write-up.

I found that the new front mount from Porsche 987.375.023.04 is a little different and has stronger bushing inside, but I decided to still use Friction First inserts instead of the original insulator stops, 986.375.255.01. Right FF inserts for the updated mount are FF.EMI.987.MT as opposed to ones for the original 986 bushing. https://tarett.com/collections/engine-986-987-981-718/products/transmission-engine-mount-insert-kit

Can anyone comment on the difference between the rubber spacers available? Pelican mentions that the new mount takes the "8mm thick" spacers. Correct or does it depend on what your old mount was?