AutoTop DIY - Page 8 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

I've been using my home-brew Arduino based AutoTop for the last year without any problems or magic smoke, so I think it's time to post a DIY guide for everybody: There are a few options for automatic top openers/closers, but they range from $100 to over $200. I like to tinker, so I had an extra Arduino knock-off and parts laying around, so I thought I'd give making my own a go. The parts total should come out to $15 or so if you purchase an Arduino Nano clone on eBay for around $5 (inc. shipping) and the rest of the parts from somewhere like Mouser.com. I used an extra standard sized Arduino Uno clone I had laying around. The functionality of this matches the way the windows work: Quick press open to auto-open, quick press close to auto close, long press open to manually open for the length of the press (for engine access), and long press close to manually close for the length of the press. Also, for emergency purposes, a quick press of either open or close while the top is auto opening or closing will cancel the auto open or close process. Parts List: -Two BC547B Transistors click here -One 78L05 Voltage Regulator click here -Two 10K resistors (.5 watt should do) -Two 1K resistors (.5 watt should do as well) (I think that was the value I used, I'll have to double check) -5 male automotive crimp-on connectors -5 female automotive crimp-on connectors -1 splice connector Schematic: Arduino Code: Click Here Notes: You'll need to wire up the Arduino as noted in the Schematic. Each connection to the harness and the switch terminate in male crimp-on connectors (for the harness side) and female crimp-on connectors (for the switch side). Three wires from the harness side and three wires from the switch side connect to the Arduino. The remaining two wires that go from the harness to the switch are just jumpers to allow the night time illumination to continue to work. I labeled the "Open" and "Close" connectors on the harness and switch sides so they are easy to differentiate if I need to disconnect it at any time. I ran the power lead to the switched power on the car stereo harness. I would suspect that it would probably be OK to have the Arduino powered all the time from the constant +12v on the harness, but I wanted to be sure I didn't drain the battery when the car was off, and I have an aftermarket stereo, so my power lead is actually soldered into my stereo's Porsche to Pioneer harness adapter. I covered all exposed wires in shrink tubing, including the transistor leads. I also sheathed the entire Arduino in a thick plastic bag. The code's open or close length is configurable by constant variables. You can edit the time used based on how long your top actually takes to open or close. I add a couple seconds to both open and close times so the top is sure to fully open or close. I also did the "bend pin 18" trick on the top relay so I can activate the top while in motion with the parking brake on one click.

I just found my next project. Thanks!

Very nice work!

Whoaa, dude, you even freely published the code for us to dwload. Top man Just need to find a project box and voila. impressive I'm a huge fan of Arduino. Been using some of it for the last 5 years to prototype a few things that eventually went to larger microchips. They are very handy and quick... so cheap as well! Nicely done and thanks for sharing. Respect

Bump. nobody else?

This is a pretty sweet write-up of a really useful mod. Appreciate your sharing it. Too bad I already went with one of the commercial units for this. What would be a real boon to those of us living in the Florida to Texas swath of the country, would be something to help us leave our windows cracked open during the hot-as-three-hells summer, but that would roll them up during the frequent surprise rain showers. It seems that an arduino based (or other) controller that could be linked to the auto rain sensor, with maybe a switch or automatic timer (to avoid inadvertantly depleting the battery) would work. I just don't have the electronic smarts to make this happen. It might need to interface with the alarm also, if there are voltage or current sensors. Anyone up for the challenge? I would pay for this solution, and feel others would also. For six months out of the year, it is a dilemma as to whether to risk rain on the leather seats, or to bake them at 180°F, or take the time to conspicuously put a goofy partial cover over the car.

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+1! Nice job!

Nice work. I wonder if I could impliment that on a TI EZ430-f2012, to be thumbnail size.

WHat is involved in programming the Arduino module ? Thanks Dwight

This is a great DYI! very cool idea.

Very impressive, Polaris. And thank you for the write-up. I have a question. If you long-press to open/close the top half way, what happens when you then do a short-press to auto open/close? Will it know when to stop? Thanks.

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Although I have not built Polaris's project I do program various arduino boards and can tell you what you need to do. If the arduino board you decide to use does not have the USB adapter built in, then you need an FTDI card that connects between your computer and the arduino. ~$15. 1) download the arduino IDE softwars onto your computer. Free 2) create a new project and copy paste the supplied code into it 3) Select the arduino board type in the software and compile/load the software onto the arduino. Thats it.....easy peasey! Wire it up and test it. You can reload and modify to yours hearts content. The arduino is probably $15 each from a US source plus I think you will need one ftdi board which will work on most arduinos with or without the onboard usb . if anyone needs help I can assist. I think I'd like to make one as well.

I think this project is cool It just shows what can be done with a $15 Arduino applied to car. One project I've seen; a Japanese car with fully prototyped coilovers & controlled by Arduino. Two independent stepper motors per coilover, a set of both bevel and worm gear box, cardan joints and shafts. Its working and incredible (and heavy lol). Dynamic tuning while driving/racing with pressure sensors, and he has the ability to select a static ride height and preload pre-set for any given road trip. DIY active suspension powered by Arduino

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I ordered a couple of boards (in case I fry one), they have the USB connector on them. Now to get the other semiconductors...Im excited about this project

I've had a couple PMs about built-up kits. I'd be willing to do $50 shipped in the US for built up Auto-Tops using the Arduino Nano (the tiny version of the Arduino). Jinster, the pseudo button press is just extra long. The switches in the top mechanism automatically stop the process when they are at the close or open position. They correspond with the light being on or off on the dashboard. It's the same as if you kept holding onto the open/close button after the top was finished.

Thats the beauty of your arduino solution, you are merely simulating someone holding their finger on the switch electronically and so all the regular built in functionality and safety is still in effect unaltered. You will still need the parking brake engaged a click for the roof to open/close. It would be nice to interface that brake switch as well with the arduino, so you dont have to have the parking brake on. I guess the arduino would simulate an active parking break signal to the relay.

You would have to ground the pin inside the relay, but then you almost have what shehadehd has

Just ordered all the parts today. Should have everything by the end of next week and I'll build/install over next weekend Arduino Nano clone from ebay $9 Rest of parts from DigKey $13 This will be my first Adruino project of what I expect to be several more. Thanks Polaris, you instructions are great and thanks for the code. Ill post how it goes after the install

I cannot get the software to recognise the Arduino module ??? I actually ordered several and they all came with USB cables....but the program does not see the module ?? Anyone help here ?? THanks Dwight

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Dwight, few things you want to chk 1. make sure your usb cable is functioning correctly, test with another device 2. com ports in the app menu can be changed. try a few 3. If above didn't do it, some drivers may be required for your version of windows. Do a search on your windows ver + arduino board/model + drivers. Make sure they show up in your Windows Device manager and all that. 4. If none of the above works, try on another computer mate (before returning those arduinos to the original seller)

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Ok, I got it all wired and connected to the switch and harness unfortunately it does not work. I get a clicking sound from both the relay and somewhere in the top. If I hold the switch, it clicks and the top moves in a very slow stepping manner I did a minor change to the design, I used pins D7&8 instead of 8&9. I did change the definitions to reflect that. I am not a programmer and this is the first time I have used an Arduino any ideas?

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As a first attempt, check your wiring, specifically the 10k pulldown resistors on pin 7,8 be sure they're there and the connection is secure. If you soldered the everything, sometimes a solder joint can look good but internally it's actually not making a good connection. By moving the wires during operation, you will see a change in operation if you have a bad connection.

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thanks for the fast reply I should preface that that I have done a lot of soldering, I used to build and repair pro audio gear and soldered about a million XLR and multipin connectors. In any case, I checked the pull down resistors, good connections I tried the wiggle on all connections with no luck In order to get any movement, I have to hold the button and instead of smooth operation, it is clicks and steps as it moves Could it be a bad board?

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More likely bad pins than a bad board. You can always try four different pins and see what happens. If both opening and closing the top acts the same, then maybe the transistors aren't working properly. Make sure you didn't wire them backwards... you might also want to check to see if the 1k resistor to the transistor is an acceptable value for the transistors you're using.

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I used the exact transistor you spec'd and 1k resistor as you listed. In reviewing your parts list,you did mention that you thought it was a 1 k resistor. I have no idea how to check what value the transistor needs I double checked the transistor wiring and it is correct The clicking is both on open and close

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Haha, I didn't write the thread. I can look through the transistor to see if it'll theoretically work but the OP got it working in his so it's probably fine. It looks like he gave a top down view of the transistor in the wiring diagram so be sure that you have the left most pin ( if you're holding the transistor with the curved side towards you) wired to the switch harness.

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From what I can tell, it is wired correctly

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hmm... give me a minute to take a look at the transistor. Is it possible to take a picture of your set-up? Also, is the relay that's clicking the one that's by the foot pedals?

It is simply a electronic switch, the 1K resistor is a current limiting device to protect the transistors from drawing too much current. It would help if the writer listed the EBC codes on the drawing. I will try to open this up a bit. The 1K resistors go to the Base of the transistor, it looks like the Emitter is grounded and the Collector supplies switched power to the harness. The Arduino can only handle a few milliamps of current so the transistors are used like electronic relays to trip the regular relay in the car.

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the relay clicking is the C top relay I think it is the motors in the actual top I hear clicking I can take a pic, but I don't know how much use it would be. I used a header connector with attached wires and soldered and heat shrunk all the connections

I bet you have the Emitter and the Collector reversed on the transistors, the Base is almost always in the middle

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I have already tried reversing the transistors. I did verify the pin out with the data sheet of the part With the part I have the collector is grounded and emitter goes to harness Is that wrong?

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I just wanted to make sure that the Base voltage was okay to put the transistor into a saturated state and that the resistor wasn't too small and causing the output pins on the board to overdrive or not providing enough base current for the collector current needed.

Take a meter and see if the transistors switch ....

I was going to build one of these, have a box of parts right here but cannot get the code to load in my module...any of them ?? Im using Nano modules BTW

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you guys are great and thanks for your help I'm gonna breadboard it this week and see if it is switching correctly I'll post an update once I have a chance to test it I put everything back to stock for now and at least the top still works correctly At least I now have a switched 12v line in the upper console. I connected it from the unused phone connector in the bottom of the console thanks again

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I am using a NANO as well. I can load the code , no problem (at least I think it is being loaded. The app says the upload was sucessfull. I have an Idea..... maybe I can load the code and you build them ???

Arduino: 1.5.6-r2 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega328" sketch_jun01a.ino: In function 'void loop()': sketch_jun01a:37: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token sketch_jun01a:47: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token sketch_jun01a:143: error: expected `}' at end of input This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" enabled in File > Preferences.

Did some more testing this morning When I meter the output pins (D2 & D3) I do get ~2.5v when I close the switch. The problem is it does not stay latched, in other words it is high only while I close the switch. It doesnort matter how long I keep teh switch closed, as short as momentary or longer. the same result. Now that is on a meter and one of the problem was that the top relay chattered and the top "stepped" as it was moving. I am wondering if my board is bad, or the other case is an error in the code

JayG, I have a couple nanos on the way. I should hopefully have them by tomorrow (crossing my fingers for today). I'll build one up over the weekend and see how it goes and if I run into anything similar to you.

Got the Arduino Nanos on Friday. I ordered the nanos that don't have the on-board USB to serial to save space and complexity. The only problem is I can't for the life of me find my "ftdi friend" usb to TTL converter to program them. I just ordered a replacement, I'll update when it gets here and I can program the nano. It'll undoubtedly be at least a week for it to get here.

Could you give us a pinout (EBC) on the transistors...the voltage regulator is pretty self explanatory.

the transistor is acting like a switch and switching ground. It doesn't matter which way they are connected as long as the base is connected via the resistor to pin 2 or 3 as applicable. The middle pin is the base. Polaris, Can you email the actual Arduino sketch file? I would like to try what you got working before.

JayG I took a look at the code and it seems fine and compiles, however I am using the Arduino v1.1 software on a Win7 PC. With this and other projects I have worked on it seems that the newer versions of the Arduino software has more bugs. Try Arduino version 1.1.x Also, the transistor orientation is important since a transistor can act as a diode and only allow current to flow in 1 direction. If the transistors are backwards you may only be able to raise , lower or do neither. Does anyone see any benefit to making the Arduino boards any smaller? If so I may try to implement this on a TI EZ430-F2012 which is smaller literally than your thumbnail.

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I can compile and load perfectly, its just it does not seem to work properly Good catch on the transistor. Like I said, it been a very long time since I played around with electronic components I don't see where I can download 1.1, but I have tried 1.5.6 and 1.0.5 Hopefully Polaris will be able to shed some light on this when he is able to try a NANO

Give the Arduino 1.05 a try. http:// http://arduino.googlecode.com/files/arduino-1.0.5-r2-windows.exe

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That's what I have been using. I tried 1.5.6 today as well The problem I have is not compiling or loading the code, its that it doesn't work properly The top motor only runs as long as I have the switch pushed, just like stock. A momentary push does not keep the top moving

Can you post a nice high res, close up picture of your arduino? The code works, I've been using my setup for over a year and 2-8 times a day (when the weather is good) without a single issue.

JayG, any update on getting a picture of your setup? I'm still waiting on the usb to serial programmer to get here.

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I'm traveling currently and will be back on Monday. I'll take some pics then

Polaris please send me a note if you can make me an auto-top . I would like to buy one from you. Thanks, Lee NY

OK, finally got a chance to take a few pics Polaris, A few questions Have you been able to get a NANO to work ? Do you have any special libraries loaded? the reason I ask, is that you define some variables and I dont see them referenced anywhere in your posted code #define openTime 15600; #define closeTime 16400; I have double and triple checked my wiring. I did make 1 modification, the pins used for the outputs so I could use the header cable I had. I changed the pins in the code as well The header cables also make a great transistor socket

The MovementCount veritable should definitely be getting set to either openTime or closeTime depending on the button pressing. Maybe I posted the wrong version of the code....like a bone head. I'll have a look through my files when I get home from work.

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Thanks I have brain farts all the time

well craptastic. Looks like the final version got overwritten with the second to last version. I'll go over the code and figure it out and let you know. On a side note, they are sending me "another" ftdi friend as it's now been 20 days since I ordered the previous one. Looks like USPS ate it.

Thanks, I appreciate it

I'm pretty sure the last switch statement should just look like: default: //no movement currently if(openBtnCount > 0) { openMode = 1; movementCount = openTime; digitalWrite(closeBtnOut, LOW); digitalWrite(openBtnOut, HIGH); } else if(closeBtnCount > 0) { openMode = 2; movementCount = closeTime; digitalWrite(closeBtnOut, HIGH); digitalWrite(openBtnOut, LOW); } else { allStop(); } I'm also pretty sure the "movementCount -= loopInterval;" lines shouldn't be in the case 3 and case 4 and default switches. They are unnecessary in case 3 and 4, and constantly decremented when there is no motion in the default case.

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just tried those changes and the output still does not stay high except for the time when the switch is closed, in other words no auto operation. I am using the onboard LED (pin 13) as the output for testing as it is easier than uploading the code and installing in the car to test

do you still have your delay(50) removed?

...and delay(50) should be delay(loopInterval)

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The delay is active I did add the highlighted lines and it appears to now work. I do have to install it and see for sure switch(openMode) { ////0=no auto movement, 1=auto open, 2 = auto close, 3 = manual open, 4 = manual close case 1: //currently auto-opening digitalWrite(openBtnOut, HIGH); movementCount -= loopInterval; and case 2: //currently auto-closing digitalWrite(closeBtnOut, HIGH); movementCount -= loopInterval; with those 2 extra lines of code, it does auto open/close and a press of the opposite direction button will immediate stop and a press longer than shortPressInterval of the same direction button will stop it

If you are going to write high there, you need to also write low to the other pin so you don't accidentally have both open and close high at the same time...that would be dangerous.

Ooh! I just found my old Nano with onboard USB. I'll set it up and test the code and add support for the parking break pin, too. I'm not seeing why you needed to add the lines to case 1 and case 2. The pins get written high in the default case before switching to case 1 or 2. Without the default case writing the pin high, the case 1 or case 2 won't be run until the second time around the loop, 50ms later since the default case is what sets the openMode to 1 or 2.

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I was just trying a few things. I am very new to programming these things, so it is highly likely unneeded code. Without the added lines it did not run in auto mode at all. The output was high only as long as the switch was closed. A short push did not enable auto mode. In any case, I'll wait for you to test, especially with the e brake support Thanks

Success!!! I found the correct final sketch, and I updated it to include a parking brake pin on pin 4. I'm a little weary about the parking break pin simply because it doesn't require an extra lock-out on the parking brake so it'll operate when somebody presses the button at any speed...in other words, use it at your own risk. I updated the link to the code in the original post. Also, a side note, the link goes directly to the .ino sketch, but since there is no defined MIME for that extension, it just shows it as text. You should be able to right click on the link to download the actual .ino file directly. There's supposedly a speed control wire that goes to the stereo, so I may investigate using that to set up a high speed lockout.

Of course, like clockwork, the FTDI Friend just showed up in the mail.

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You are a Gentleman and a Scholar the new code works great! :dance: THANK YOU!! do you have instructions for connecting for the pbrake interlock? speed control would be very cool

pBreak should be the same circuit as the other output pins and should wire to the non-grounded side of the parking break switch....which will probably be a pain in the butt to get to. I had a thought about the safety of the parking brake interlock, only make it activate when putting the top down, since you have the extra step of the top latch, but leave the close interlock as is so you have to click the parking brake handle one click manually. That way you don't accidentally close the top while driving down the highway.

just installed it in my car and it works perfectly The new code Polaris posted is spot on! I will look into connecting the p brake later, for now, 1 click is fine Thanks again Polaris! BTW, it does not matter which way the transistors are wired as long as you get base correct as they are switching ground

I just did a "Tortoise Diff" on the Old vs New code and there are lots of differences so don't even try to cut and paste the fixed sections in place in the old one base on the comments here as you WILL miss something. Better you just redownload the code from the same Link and save the .ino file with date appended so you can get rid of the old incomplete one. Just saying to help ensure everyones success. Kudo's to Polaris for developing this and sharing freely with his fellow enthusiasts. I'm waiting on the speed line upgrade and then I'll jump in as well. That would be about number 4 on my list of todo's for the 986

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Yes, I saw a bunch of differences as well. Polaris mentioned he muust have origionally uploaded one of the earlier code versions from development As a FYI, if you are looking at the code and have opened teh link before, you should refresh the cache (scrfeen) as you may be looking at the old code\ in the beginning of the code: #define openBtnOut 2 #define closeBtnOut 3 #define pBrakeOut 4 #define openBtnIn 8 #define closeBtnIn 9 IF pBrakeOut is not defined, it is the old code JB, I am in N San Diego, so if you need some help, let me know

Having decided to have a go at this I have now got all the bits and down loaded the code to the board and about to start the wiring. I laid all components and wire out and planned when they would go, this is where the problems start. It could be me as never done this type of stuff before, but my board seems to be missing a GND and the + - below is a pic of the board. Any help really appreciated Cheers David

Hi David, take a closer look at the pin description. Arduino - ArduinoBoardNano Maybe this will also help: PIN 30 = + 6-20 volts PIN 27 = + 5 volts PIN GND = ground (2) Regards Markus

There is only one ground connection. You use it for all the grounds in the wiring Mine works great and was really easy to install

Thanks for your help guys, all tested and working. Special thanks to Polaris for sharing [IMG] [/IMG]

Fitted and working, thanks JayG and Smallblock Special thanks to Polaris for sharing in the 1st place

I have just bought all the components needed for this project and I am about to dig out my trusty old soldering iron to get things started. I was just wondering if anyone has thought of any other Boxster related projects that the Arduino could handle - seems a bit of a waste to let such a powerful computer to just do the top switch. What about things like curtesy headlights (headlights stay on for say 20sec at night after switching off) or auto-closing windows on arming (I already have a module to handle that, but conceivably the Arduino could handle it instead). Can anyone think of other "comfort" features that we can put the Arduino to work for?

Yes! Three blink turn signals. Hardware and software should be very similar.

Kudos Polaris. I just built this with an Arduino Nano and it works perfectly. I added some code into the sketch so the roof can be triggered via serial connection on the USB to my in-dash Nexus 7. Now I've just gotta get that working on the tablet. Unfortunately Lollipop has made this more difficult as SL4A doesn't work with it.

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I actually used an EZ430 (thumbnail sized microprocessor) to illuminate the projectors "Dragon Eyes" breathing pattern red glow that I want activated when the security system is armed. https://youtu.be/y07LMs5-zFA We could add that to the Arduinos task list.

BUMP as this subject seems to be getting some interest again It has been a year since I installed this and NO problems at all There was an initial problem with the code, and Polaris re posted the correct code and all was well

I'm new to the forum and I may take this project on, but it's not at the top of the list. I'll order up a couple of nano boards and set them aside for a rainy day. Great writeup!

One of the best if not the best mod I've done

I'm about to install a Pioneer double-din stereo that requires a double-pulse trigger to bypass the parking break lockout for changing audio settings (or playing DVDs while moving, which I don't care about). There is a bypass device available for around $15, but I figured I'd just add it to the AutoTop DIY. Anybody else interested? In particular, this would apply to at least the Pioneer SPH-DA120 and the AVH-4100NEX and AVH-4200NEX models.

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Glad to see you are back on the forum I am also looking at going to a double din unit, so yes, I would be interested in the updated code, etc

Yeah, I've not been spending very much time on the forum. I've been busy driving my Boxster and went back to school to get a BS in information systems while also working full time still.

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I have a AVH-4000NEX and used the ebay bypass. Are you still building these up for $50? I would love one! John

I'll also get around to building your Auto-top Arduino eventually, especially now that I have a glass rear window top, I also have a double din touch screen (Cheap Chinese version) but what I need is the reversing wire to go to ground to enable the backup camera. Is any of the auto-top interfacing/logic able to provide a reverse signal? If not I may need a microswitch or something on the gear shift linkages or a relay on a backup taillight to trigger it. Any ideas.

Hey jb92563 - for reverse there's a black wire with blue stripe at the control box under the seat, have a look at the images here : http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/51283-does-anyone-know-vss-wire-02-bose.html

Thanks OldSkool, I will definately try to locate that wire for the reversing cam.

I've been thinking about possible additions to this, I'm good at the code side but rubbish at the electronics, so wondering if someone with more knowledge could chime in on my possibly stupid ideas/questions below... 1) The nano has a VIN that accepts +12v, any reason we can't just use that and skip the Voltage Regulator? 2) The nano has optional built in pullups on the inputs, any reason we can't use them to wire the switch side to GND (instead of +5v) and go directly to pins 8 & 9 without the need for the resistors? ( https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/DigitalInputPullup ) 3) There's a speedometer input wire to the radio (GR/PK), does anyone know what kind of output this provides? I'm assuming if we can figure it out, it could it be used to provide an input that locks the auto open over a certain speed?

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1) Your right, it has its own built in regulator on the 12v IN and a 5v out pin if we need 5v for something. 3) Thats a great idea but no idea on the signal in that wire, but surely it can be handled once we figure it out.

Just a quick one guys. I've just done this and it's a success, very happy. But sometimes it operates VERY slowly, as if you're doing it while the engine isn't running. Any ideas? Thanks!

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could be your battery They are electric motors, so if the voltage was lower, they would be slower

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You want the voltage regulator to protect the nano. While a car is a nominal 12v, in reality it can get higher. Sure the nano can probably handle a few more volts than 12, but for a buck or 2, why take the chance

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Thanks. Seems to be absolutely fine, might have been something to do with me constantly testing it in a short space of time. It's perfect now

Has anyone done this recently? I have been waiting for a RoboTop or a ComfortTop to become available and they are not so I am ready to pull out my soldering iron and get to work. I would think that the basic Arduino will have changed a few times over the past 2 years.

Arduino is still the same as it ever was, so no problem there. Just make sure you get one of the Atmel ATMega 328 based boards.

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Can you confirm if this works? Uno R3 ATMEGA328P CH340 Micro USB Board for Compatible Arduino | eBay Also, what gauge wire did you use? I am a SW guy, not a HW guy but I have done HW projects. Thanks, John

The CH430 part of of the arduino means its a clone of the original, only difference is that you will need the CH430 driver on your PC in order to upload the software. Otherwise its identical to an arduino and should work just fine.

Hey guys, I need some help with this, I've built this twice now and I just can't get it to work. The code and electronics in theory are working fine, I've breadboarded it all up with a couple of led's to simulate the top motor and can turn them on and off with the buttons, but when I get it in the car... nothing. If I put a multimeter between the regular harness and switch, when I press the button I see 12v @ ~70ma when the top's moving, which drops to ~10ma when the top stops. But when I do it between the arduino and the harness I see 12v @ ~30ma. I'm guessing this is the reason it doesn't work, not pushing enough power through to activate the motor, but I don't know why? I've built it twice now, thinking I must have screwed up the first one, but the second has exactly the same result :/ The only difference I can see in my build is I'm using a nano, which has no +/- and only 2 GND. So the VR goes to the VIN and one GND, leaving one free GND which I connect to from the harness, and which both switches (via the 10k resistors) and both transistors (via the collector pins) are wired to. Is this wrong? I'm just a simple software guy, so all these wires and pins confuse me. Any help appreciated! Thanks!

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I ordered the Arduino Nano board for $5.88 shipped. ATMEGA328 Compatible Nano V3 Improved Version Board with USB Cable for Arduino | eBay I have put all of the components in a cart on Mouser and am now trying to get the connectors. Does anyone know the specifics of these automotive crimp-on connectors so that they fit between the harness and the switch? Thanks, John

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they are just regular 1/4" push on terminals Gardner Bender 16-14 AWG 0.250 in. Disconnect F TAB (75-Pack)-75-143F - The Home Depot I used an insulated version http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-4-in-Blue-Fully-Insulated-Wire-Disconnects-15-Pack-15-153F/202521914

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Thanks! I ordered the components and will go to HD to get the connectors! Can't wait to get this project rolling! John

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Make sure you get the correct ones for the wire gauge you are using. IIRC, I used red ones. The package tells you what gauge wire will fit

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What gauge wire should I be using? John

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I used 16 gauge, so I guess I used blue terminals

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Personally I'd buy a One just to be absolutely sure that everything is the same as the build. I did and it works as I didn't want to get anything wrong. Originally I bought a cheap ebay rip-off and it didn't work, then I bit the bullet and bought a proper Arduino One for £20 and it worked first time

Thanks @geraintthomas, gonna hang on and see if @jpc763 has any luck with his nano first, hopefully he reports back...

I will post when I complete the project.

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OK. I am starting the project and have a few questions. I was a code guy back in the day but have done some electronics. I am using a breadboard to wire it up before I solder everything together. Here is a picture of my nano. I am trying to figure out how to match the pinouts from Polaris's Arduino. Mine is more like JayG. I assume that the "-" on the end is simply ground and will solder to the other ground wires. The "+" is a question as I have both 5v, 3.3v and pow pins. So, which do I connect the power regulator to?

The regulator connects to +5v

Does anyone have the shcematic for the arduino nano? It is hard to find out wich is the pin out number on the arduino nano it is very different then the schematic that polaris did. Thanks guys!

Everything is on the digital pins, and it should correspond to the same pin-out numbers even if they are in a different order. Alternatively, all the pinouts are set up through constants, so you can change the pinouts the code uses by changing the constants at the top of the code before compiling and uploading to your arduino. I have made this successfully with both the arduino one (my original version) and eBay Chinese nanos without issue, so it should be possible.

Hello Polaris, Coming late to the AutoTop party. The link to the arduino code is broken in your original post. Where can I find the code? Thank you in advance.

@mikehkang - you can grab it from my github if you need, this first commit is just an import of @Polaris's original code .... https://raw.githubusercontent.com/oldskool73/autotop986/4080d0e94c0b5fdb2546379d614b5992477a9e4d/autotop986.ino

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Thank you oldskool73!! P. S. Do you also know where I can get the circuit diagram? Thank you in advance.

Hi Guys. If anyone has the schematic I would be most grateful. Thanks

Here is the Schematic

Thanks, I will build it tomorrow.

Guys, need some help. I've ordered the components to do this, and installed the Arduino IDE on my Mac, but the plain truth is I don't know Arduino from Andouille. When I open a new "sketch" with the software, I see some basic code: void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: } void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: } SO... where do I put the code that oldskool73 shared aboe (comment #116)??? I've found a basic tutorial on Arduino, but frankly thought it'd be a bit more direct to just ask here. Appreciate any help &/or advice anyone can offer. TIA!

Just paste the supplied code over the top, replacing the default. If you look at the code I posted, it already has the setup and loop functions in it, along with the rest of the logic.

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Ah, thanks. Appreciate your help!

JayG (or anyone else who can help), What are these connectors called and where did you pick them up? Thanks in advance.

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they are pin header connectors 5" JUMPER W/ TWO 8-COND. F HEADER SOCKETS, 0.1" SPACING | All Electronics Corp. get 1 and cut the wire in the middle

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Thanks for your help!!

Sorry about the broken link. I changed web servers and forgot to put the code page back up. Looks like you've got it sorted, though.

Very cool idea. Dumb question...where physically does this get wired in? Is it between the roof switch and the harness that connects to the switch or down near the relay? I have a friend who is a pro with Arduino and programming so the rest should be ok edit: Perhaps this video illustrates installation? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsmqUgMN1P4

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Yes, you unplug the harness from the switch and connect the autotop between the two

I don't know why I procrastinated this so long but finally installed it today. Awesome! Of note, I wired to the un-switched power on the cigarette lighter. There is a small led on the board that is always lit. Any concern? Also, it seems my buttons are reversed. I push the side with the roof to open and the side with the convertible to close. Which pins are reversed?

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I am currently debugging. I removed the system to try and get the button switched (The open button closes the top and the close button opens it). Since pulling it out, I have not been able to close it at all. I assume that close is pins 3 and 9 on the Arduino. They do not correspond to matching pins between the switch and harness. What am I missing?

Just swap the wires that come off of pins 8 & 9 on the switch

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It appears I bricked my Nano board. The RX, TX and Power lights are all lit up and online it says that is bad. I ordered another one (actual Arduino brand) and will wire it up again. I did use my Son's Arduino Uno board and it worked correctly.

Another update. I ordered a new Arduino Nano board and attempted to upload the program to it. The IDE fails. If I change the target to Arduino Mini, it uploads, so I tried it. I plugged everything in and had the motor start immediately. The top opened once and then not again. Any ideas folks?

I just did this to my recently acquired 986 and now my Dad wants it in his car. Thanks to everyone who made this a successful DIY project. There is so much good info on this thread. Does anyone know if this will work on a 997?

This looks cool! Tempted to try. Any chance someone that's done it recently can post links to all required hardware? In addition, it looks like the original post had additional pictures that no longer show up. I assume this was how to assemble this thing? Any more help there?

Hi Polaris, Do you still make them? I would love to order one! Kind regards, Rene

excuse the potential stupidity. i'm just thinking here, but if the windows have something in them to allow them to go up and down fully without needing to hold down the button, could whatever does this, be wired into the button part of the hood up/down buttons?

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No. The window operation is controlled by the immobilizer/ECU under the seat. The top is on a special relay.

I made one of these soon after the thread started and its been one of the best mods I've done to my car. Just bought a 987.2 is it possible make a board to do the same thing? Fingers crossed

I was looking into buying the commercial version of this, but it now costs $500. Found this thread and wanted to say thanks to Polaris and all the contributors over the years. This is an excellent mod and works great! Since not everyone who wants one of these is an electronics wiz, one tip I thought I’d throw out there that might help someone in the future: I bought a clone Arduino Nano V3 with header pins already soldered. To wire everything up, I used breadboard jumper wires (female to female), like these: https://www.amazon.com/GenBasic-Piece-Female-Jumper-Wires/dp/B01L5ULRUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=breadboard+jumper+female+to+female&qid=1586186495&sr=8-3 The DuPont connectors plug directly onto the pins of the board, but for the connection to the car harness and switch, the bare wire is too high of a gauge to securely crimp to the spade connectors. So instead of stripping the wire for the spade connector, I removed the DuPont housing. The crimped DuPont receiver inside the housing fits securely into a red (18-22ga) spade connector and crimps well. Then, for the transistors, you can plug those directly into the breadboard wires, put some heat shrink on the transistor and wires and that secures them. Finally, I soldered the resistors into the corresponding wires rather than directly to the board. The spacing for the pins on the board is just too close for my cludgy soldering abilities.

Welcome to the forum.

You may also want to contact THSTONE. He bought the robotop company a few years ago and may still have some units for sale

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Thanks This is a good tip for anyone who wants this functionality. Even after building POLARIS' design, I would have been comfortable paying $100-$200 for a ready-made solution.

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Hi Jay, I put this project on a back burner and started it up again given the current stay at home orders. Anyway, I started over from scratch and still cannot seem to do it correctly. I am going to post some pictures of my (crappy) wiring. Something has to be wrong there. For Nano power, I am pulling power from the cig lighter. It goes from there to one leg of the voltage regulato. The second leg (center leg) of the voltage regulator is connected to ground. The final leg of the regulator is connected to the 5v power on the Nano. This also shows ground connecting to the harness. There are also two connectors that connect directly between the harness and switch as in the diagram. For Nano Pin 2, it is connected through a 1k resistor connect to the center pin of the 547B transitor. One leg of the 547B transistor is connected to ground Final leg of the transistor is connected to harness pin For Nano Pin 3, it is connected through a 1k resistor connect to the center pin of the 547B transitor. One leg of the 547B transistor is connected to ground Final leg of the transistor is connected to harness pin For Nano Pin 8, It is connected to a 10k resistor through to ground AND is connected to the switch For Nano Pin 9, It is connected to a 10k resistor through to ground AND is connected to the switch This is the place I believe that I made a mistake. Does the 10k need to be directly between Pin 8 (or 9) and the switch? Anyway, when installed, I see the power light. I push the switch and nothing happens. If anyone else knows what I screwed up, please let me know!

From the schematic, the resistor goes between pin 8 & ground and pin 9 & ground pins 8 & 9 go to the switch the resistor does not go from the switch to pin 8 or 9 When I built mine , I soldered the resistors on the andrino. If you look up a bunch of posts, there is a pic I posted

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Is the 5v both input and output???

Hi everyone I just got a 986 and working on making it an awesome fun ride. Very late and i've thoroughly went thru this post. I know it's been a while since anybody wrote here. I soldered everything up and loaded program and pretty much ready to test this but I don't know where to find the Switched 12V. Can someone advise. Thanks in advance

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Since you have US car you should have the telephone plug somewhere behind the dashboard. It should have ground, constant 12v and switched 12v. For my ROW car I had to switch outputs of fuses D5 and E8 to only power my cigarette lighter with ignition.

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Among other places, look under the center armrest. Do a search

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Thank you JayG for the advices and all your contribution. I will take a look this weekend and report back. Thank you Polaris and everyone on this forum.