996 convertible top not working light just blinks

2000 996 automatic convertible. Top went down fine and now it won't go up. Light just blinks when I push the button and no sounds what so ever.... Any thoughts. 83k on car.

Is the engine cover closed and latched?

It is closed and latched. Top went down and then driven when got back home it just blinks. When it went down everything felt and sounded normal. Seems like it's something simple but it's dark now. Something sounds like it is trying to work in back of driver but can't figure out what.

Sounds like it may be low on oil, check the hydraulic oil level in the pump. It lives behind the panel behind the rear seats, but check the easy things first. Do a search on "top won't close". There are a few things to try. Open & close the engine lid, work the parking brake a couple times (switch might be stuck), check all fuses, then check the oil level in the top pump reservoir.

And remember, you can always put it up (and to serviving position) manually.

I had this happen and if I recall correctly it was the emergency brake sensor that was bad.

Just to follow up, since I have the exact same problem.... When the oil level is low, is the hydraulic motor really quiet? I would have thought that you still can hear the motor running. Also, the parking brake switch, is that interchangeble for a coup� switch? Thanks, Johan

Is the parking brake relevant for 2000? On a 2003 according to the manual you can be moving up to 30mph.

So, if the parking brake light in the instrument cluster work, does that mean the convertible top switch also work? Johan

My money is on a microswitch.

Had a similar problem. I topped up the hydraulic fluid but it seemed pretty full already. Now on occasion, the top sticks, but maybe once every 10 times. Search this topic and you will get some suggestions. Good luck.

check the fluid

I will check fluid today and get back on here and let you know if it helps

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Mine too.....

Can you still put the top down with the key in the door if it's the parking brake sensor or micro switch?

Hi, in my case it was the fluid level. It was completely empty! Unfortunately it was due to a massive leak at the right hydraulic cylinder, so I still need to replace something. I'll read up on that! To fill it up was super easy, took maybe half an hour all-and-all. The hardest part was to remove the cover under the top storage department. I believe it is an easy fix compared to an electric failure, which can be a nightmare to find! Thanks for all the help, Johan

Johan, Thank you for the update on your fix. Wonder if the OP has resolution yet?

If you still need a cylinder, there are several selections (as of 10/4/11) for pumps and/or cylinders on ebay for purchase. Usually just one cylinder or the pump will go bad. Most junk yards want to sell you the whole set up (2 cylinders & pump)

This is interesting and this has fortunately only happened to me once. Brought the top up, latched and locked, everything normal but then the top light began flashing. Opened up again and then closed, blink (did it a few more times). Gave up and went inside and was a little depressed (my baby was sick).... Next time I took the car out, brought down the top, drove, brought up the top, everything was normal. Never happened again! Hope it dosn't happen anymore.

Thanks guys, I bought the entire set on german ebay this weekend. I will have a spare pump to sell soon if someone is interested. Another question; it seems like my rear wing sometimes is acting up, and is not fully in the down position when turning the ignition off. Could this affect the top operation? I do hope it is only a lube job required..... Johan

Not to start another thread, but I can open and close the top with my key from outside the car, but when I use the button it wont work. This ever happen, cause?

jsoderbe: I have a 2001 996 cab and my top has stopped working too. We seem to have the same problem because my rear spoiler does not raise anymore either. The light on the dash blinks when I try to open the top and i can hear the motor trying to open it. Summer is here and I need to fix this problem. Any ideas anyone?

The only suggestions I can come up with to anyone have ragtopproblems is hand brake fully on and engine lid fully closed. Then you might try from outside the car via holding the key in the door to the left and right for 3 seconds both with the engine running and also turned off. That may clear a glitch in the works. Mine acts up occassionally but seems to clear itself after I try differant things. Like when I decided this year to hang the hard top up for the summer, The top came up and went down ok.. Then out on the road it wouldn't go up as I parked up with engine running and handbrake full on so i kind of gave up trying.. Drove off a bit chilly and tried again about 5 miles later and dammit it worked just fine and has since. I can't understand it. Make sure that you have a fully charged battery as that can effect it as well. I would boost the battery up overnight and try things again if I were you.

Hi, First thing I would do (last 3 posts) would be to check hydraulic oil level. I would guess that to be the problem in 90 % of the top issues. It is really easy to check, you just open the rear clam shell and front lock with the key in the door and manually lift the top to the service position. There is a very good writeup att Renntech. When you are sure about the oil level you could start to look at other problems. Johan

I had the same problem on my 2000 C4 and it was the E brake switch. But now my problem is recurrent. How do you get the roof up manually??

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How ? Mine is stuck in the down position and I need to bring it in for other work but it is snowing! Thanks.

I think you can lift it by hand, so you can "assist" the hydraulics to get it moving. Ask someone to push the button at the same time you stand in the back seat and lift it. Dont pull with everything you have got, just lift it from start and assist it while closing. If you have to add oil it is unfortunately time to rebuild the cylinders... Regards, Johan

There is a multistep procedure in the manual to open it "by hand". (pages 143 to 149 in mine) Remove the panel behind the rear seats. Crank the cover back 0pen the two side flaps using a tool by each of the hardtop receivers etc...

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Tarzancoe, Can you explain how to get the hood up manually? Thanks Andy

Thanks

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Thank you

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Thanks

Read very carefully before manually putting the top up as I seem to recall reading somewhere that if you do, it will not work via the door and dash button until something is reset... Can't remember just what but something. Once again I must stress that you have to have a full battery for the top to work correctly.

Most likely have to go to dealer to get the multiple micro switch "timing" reset after using the procedure in the owners manual. If he just helps it by hand after the flaps and cover have moved he probably won't have to have anything reset.

Hi, need some help, top won't close 2004 996 turbo cab, have a smart top controller, has been in car for years like 4, pressed switch to close, windows drop, lid unlocks and slightly lifts then stops two blinks constant on dash top light, removed back cover to find hex cap gone, used a 5/16 8 point socket and can lock an unlock top lid, light will go off when locked back with socket. lid cannot be lifted when unlocked, do I need to bring down the flaps manually to release it? Best course of action suggestions at this point?. can hear motor running in back, seems like the lid has a larger than normal gap between popups cover and the front of the convertible roof, something stuck? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim

Hello again, Well after a few years of intermittent problems with the cab top it finally quit full time. I brought it to my non-dealer mechanic who told me it was definitely an electronic problem and that the dealer would have a diagnostic tool to tell which switch needed to be replaced. The dealer said they did not have such a device (can't believe this). They replaced the e-brake, not a solution. They then attempted to replace the hook latch (above the mirror), after telling me that it would be north of $1500 I asked them to put the top in the down position manually and call it a day. Do you have any suggestions on trouble shooting this issue other than replacing every switch (ignition switch was going to be next in line)? Thanks in advance. Andy

It seems to me that a competent mechanic should be able to troubleshoot the problem systematically, with an understanding of how the limit switches work, and in what order. Go through the system sequence I/O one-by-one with a meter until the problem is found. If this isn't something you are willing to tackle yourself, find a better mechanic?

I have a 99 Cab and I'm experiencing the same situation. In my case I've replaced the micro switch in the parking brake a few months back. Just recently I added fluid (top was slow to close) to the pump. The last thing was being stuck with the top down. The clamp shell would open but the right flap was stuck so I replaced the flap (had to manually raise the top, see owners manual). By going manual I need to see the dealer to re-program and calibrate. When I spoke with the service manager he said if any of the micro switches (2 on each flap, 1 for the clam shell, 1 for the parking brake, 1 in the top of the windsheild, and 1 as a part of the program - speed sensor) fail the top dosen't move. In my case I hope it's just a recalibration...............let you know the out come soon.

The top latch is easy, I just glued a small piece of plastic on the switch there and it started working again. Of course the switch can break, but I think most problems is caused by light wear which the piece of plastic will take care of. To me the top can break in many different ways, but most of them are pretty easy to fix. Rhards, Johan

All good now, dealer had to clear all of the fault codes (had quite a few fault codes due to my persistance to reset). They unplugged the control module and reloaded the data..............fully operational now. Cost was $250 (sounds excessive for a download!). I'm curious if anybody would knows if the Durametric program would have helped with this?

Well my top is acting up again. It has been running flawlessly for the past 4 months. I hear 2 clicks on the drivers side in the back the red light on the dash is flashing when I try to raise the top either on the dash button or the key in the drivers door. I see that the silver clam looks to be fully down and the engine lid is closed but I see a half inch gap behind the rear seat ejectors. Where the front of the top should butt up too. I shine a light down the gap and see the hook of the top where it latches into the front. I suspect that I should not be seeing this hook and that the top did not finish its cycle correctly and that's why its not raising now. I am pissed with the top on this car. It is the most temperamental part of a cab. It works when it wants to work. If I don't solve it tomorrow then its into PORSCHE in Lancaster for them to sort it out finally. I am pissed because this will be only the second time I have had Porsche look at the car in 2 and a half years. I do all my own DIY on the car. This I cannot solve and I cannot find any DIY person on these boards to solve the CAB PROBLEM for sure. It would be easier for me to whistle up my own **** than it is to solve this bastard.

My latest top experience turned out to be an issue with one if the cables that had snapped. I had it into the dealer for other work and they had to replace one of the cables. This was after many intermittent issues so maybe something to investigate . Good luck.

Outside of having to add some fluid a couple of years ago, my top (knock on wood) has worked perfectly. About a month ago, I noticed a small puddle of amber fluid underneath the car when I was backing out of my garage. Great! an oil leak. But the puddle wasn't under the engine; it was in front of the rear wheelwell. Then it dawned on me what was leaking. You guessed it, the driver's side hydraulic cylinder for the top. I had just put the top up before leaving. A couple of companies specialize in the rebuilding of these cylinders. I'm going to use the one in Braenton, FL. $450 exchange for both. Still haven't decided if I'm doing them myself or not. Has anyone tackled this before?

Further to my latest Cab roof problem. I have my fingers crossed and may have solved my problem. Last time it closed up, via the dash switch, the door windows did not come up to indicate that the cycle was NOT complete. Then the top would not release the hook so it could come back down so I removed two plastic pieces either side of the hook to reveal a moveable cranker to release the hook manually which I did. IT says (open and close) on the inside of the right one. When it worked again from the dash, I stopped the roof half way and sprayed WD 40 all over the working parts either side and behind the hook. Then I removed the alian looking plastic eye parts either side of the inside light cluster. Call that part the hook resepticle. I found two Philip LOOKING screws in there. One was loose which I promptly tightened up with a special screw driver just for those screws. I bought that screw driver last year when I was working on other parts of the car. I opened the top up/down and THIS TIME since oiling, I heard a loud click each time the hood was coming up ... THat I discovered was the hook flying quickly out making itself ready for the receptacle at the front windscreen. I did not need Porsche to re calibrate the top as I had not interfered with the parts behind the rear seat backs as described in the Cabriolet Manual. As I say, fingers crossed because I have had nothing but problems with the top since I bought the car 2 and a half years ago. I took the car out and stopped every 100 yards, and working from the dash, I had the top up and down at least 20 times no problem. Mine is the 99 job. Some of you might want to check out the hook part. I think you should hear a loud click as it flys out in the process of coming up. My hook has the full plastic on it now from my last repairing session. Also check the two screws inside the alian eyes before ordering new motors and hydraulics and micro switches for the roof operation. It worked for me and I will let you all know if it stops again.

I started having a similar problem with my convertible top (2002 996). It would start to get stuck in the completely closed or completely open positions, and the red light would just blink when trying to open or close it. For a long time, it would only happen once every ten times or so, but it began to become more frequent. The first time I took it into the shop, they said there were some faults in the sensor, and they cleared them out, hoping that would cure the problem. They said sometimes when you disconnect the battery, it can create a fault, but since the mechanism worked fine, that would be a good thing to try. It worked for a little while, but I soon ran into the same problem as before. The second time I took it in, saying that the problem had not been fixed. They plugged the computer in and played with the top until they could generated the faults. Now they are saying that I need to get a new convertible top motor and related parts to replace it--essentially a $1100 job. $650 for the motor, $300 labor and additional related parts of about $100. The diagnosis is that there are potentiometers in the motor that tell it what position the top is in. They believe these potentiometers are bad and generating the faults. Unfortunately, they are internal to the motor, and unable to be fixed, so I need to replace the whole motor. Does this sound like reasonable logic? I want to get this thing fixed, but I don't want to spend $1100 unnecessarily.

Aesir, It does not sound reasonable to me..... My diagnosis is that they are trying to rip you off, and that they are full of $hit....... See the following: If top is stuck in open position, look at the 2 flaps as you try to open the top....if one of them is "stuck" closed, tap it lightly to see if it opens.....this is the most common problem I have encountered........re greasing the "screws" may help..... If stuck in the closed position, see if the above "hook" is even attempting to detach......if not, then you may have the frunk or engine lid not closed properly, or the e-brake micro-switch is faulty.......or one of the quarter rear windows is not moving (bad regulator?).... Chances are one (or more) micro-switches malfunctioning, or not open/closing properly........not the motor......

It's interesting that you mention the flaps, as that is one of the error codes that occurs. The fault that shows on the computer is "flap open" or something like that. Next time it's stuck in the open position, I'll have to check those. It seems like it's more often stuck in the closed position, and when it is, the "hook" never attempts to detach--if it does, then the top opens without incident. The rear windows seem to operate perfectly, and I really doubt my bonnet or engine lids are not closed properly--are there microswitches associated with those that could fail? If the e-brake microswitch is faulty, then it doesn't affect the indicator light on the dash (which operates perfectly), and it must only fail intermittently. In some rare cases, when you close the top from the open position, it will reach the closed position, and then the red light will start flashing before the windows automatically close. When that happens, the red light will stay on, and you will get the "Convertible Top Not In Limit Position" warning when you drive, but try to close it only get's the familiar blinking light. After starting/stopping the car several times, and trying to "Close" the top with the switch each time, it will just magically and briefly make a clicking noise and roll the windows down about 1/4" and back up again and then be closed for good with the light going out. Thanks, Pesuazo, for the tips--gives me some new things to look into. If the above information inspires any other thoughts from anyone, they are welcome.

Glad to be of help......from what I read, it seems the micro switches for the flaps are misbehaving. It does not sound like the "motor needs replacement".....if you have the workshop manuals, the convertible top is covered in the "996 Group 6 Body Exterior" file. More information can be found in the "996 Group 0 Diagnosis From 61" file.......

Resurrecting the thread because I had the exact problem and i checked hydraulic fluid levels; side flap, emergency brake and engine bay micro switches with no improvement. I accessed the top compartment motor from the back seat turned the motor just a little bit to check if the maybe the micro switch for the top compartment cover was acting up. That was it! The switch was fine but the mechanical arm was only barely making contact with the switch at the "close cover" limit. I assume the control unit was not getting a correct "cycle end" reading that was causing the top to not operate. I assume this can be the same issue whether the top is stuck closed or open. The final fix was simply to torque down the micro switch bracket and inserted a spacer (i used electrical tape folded multiple times) between the switch and the base assembly in order to improve the contact action. The top has been working since!

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If the engine/lid is not closed all the way the top will not operate. I sometimes have to open the lid and let it drop then ift works fine

Welcome to the community, FasterPussycat! Also, you might now hold the new record for replying on the oldest thread.

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I like to set records! Actually this is Porsche 13 for me but I have never owned a Cab. I think there must be a micro-switch on the rear lid latch. I will break out a multimeter (even if I have no idea what I am looking for)

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Seems we have had a resurgence of bringing back old threads from the dead here lately.......I guess that means that new people are actually using the "search function" ???

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You mentioned micro switch ...I bought a shop manual and I can't find a microswitch illustration Where is it? thx

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https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-location.html