19 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH99 C4 to C2 suspension refresh
Leading reported evidence
Use c2 front uprights
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
advised me to pick up 2 used C2 front uprights to correct the suspension geometry from C4 to C2 while doing my suspension, I like this idea a lot.
Leading evidence: 'Use c2 front uprights' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace ball joint end' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I like them because u can replace the ball joint end with twr replacements for $35ea if they wear out.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am on the same page as you guys, definitely replacing the bearings because who knows the mileage on these and it will be easier to replace the bearing on my workbench than in the car.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am on the same page as you guys, definitely replacing the bearings because who knows the mileage on these and it will be easier to replace the bearing on my workbench than in the car.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Kind of like why would you replace an oil filler tube or alternator bracket with an untested more expensive one when the ones you have are working perfectly?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am on the same page as you guys, definitely replacing the bearings because who knows the mileage on these and it will be easier to replace the bearing on my workbench than in the car.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I am on the same page as you guys, definitely replacing the bearings because who knows the mileage on these and it will be easier to replace the bearing on my workbench than in the car.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Kind of like why would you replace an oil filler tube or alternator bracket with an untested more expensive one when the ones you have are working perfectly?
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Feal seems like amazing bang for your buck I hope they are as good as everyone says for $2k, also I cant have nicer suspension on my 996 than my M3 fun toy car running KW V3's lol.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a 99 C4 that I am going to convert to a C2 during my engine swap.
@De Jeeper
advised me to pick up 2 used C2 front uprights to correct the suspension geometry from C4 to C2 while doing my suspension, I like this idea a lot. C2 uprights have been ordered today, I am building the list for everything else. I will be using C2 Feal coilovers with swift springs, radial bearings & adjustable bump stops. I want to refresh the entire suspension all at once, all rubber and joints to be replaced. This car is going to be my daily again and will most likely never see a track. I have made a list, am I missing anything, should anything be swapped out for a diff part/ brand/ adjustable, or anything else I might not know about.
Adjustible rear toe arms are required on some, Feal installs, if you get too much rear camber. Not every installation. I went with JDM Hard Race, Taiwanese. My Indy saw the Feals and Hard Race gear. Felt no reservations, but prefers Elephant racing. I sourced my front and rear sway bars from them.
We�re doing similar suspension refreshes and the one thing I�d consider if you�re not getting adjustable LCAs is Tarett upper camber plates. I think Elephant has the same set up but you can set them up as you normally would or use the high camber setting which will allow you to add camber.
https://tarett.com/collections/monoballs-bushings-996
I have the Tarett and they are really nice. Do keep in mind, if going from low to high offset, toe has to be reset each time, so it�s not a quick pre-track day swap.
R your uprights coming complete with wheel bearings, wheel carrier, stub shaft and brake rotor shields? If not u will need those parts. Also if they r complete just replace the wheel bearings now as u will not be able to predict how good the used ones r.
Feal come with adjustable camber plates so no need for those.
I would replace the wheel bearings at least in the used uprights you purchase.
Edit. I�m not as fast a typer as Aaron and glad he agrees with me.
I will have to look into this further, I am thinking I should just get adjustable rear toe arms to start and do it right. My friend has HardRace on his e46 M3, no complaints.
I was looking at these from Tarret since I am getting Tarret adjustable drop links as well to keep it all the same brand. Any reason anyone thinks I should get a diff brand? I have never used Tarret but there are tons of recommendations for this company on these forums.
https://tarett.com/products/rear-toe...40476037152932
Just like
@hbdunn
said further down the Feal coils come with camber plates, this has slightly swayed me towards Feal. I was originally pricing this refresh out with Ohlins RT but also need to buy camber plates with the Ohlins & it was really starting to add up pricewise, about $1500 more than Feal, still kinda on the fence tho. Feal seems like amazing bang for your buck I hope they are as good as everyone says for $2k, also I cant have nicer suspension on my 996 than my M3 fun toy car running KW V3's lol.
Noted I will keep this in the back of my head.
Joel, you got such a killer deal on those, I'm super jealous dude!
The uprights are complete and looks like they have come off the same 911 from Pacific motors, $300 for the pair free shipping, not a bad price to correctly convert the suspension & geometry from C4 to C2, for my needs at least. I am on the same page as you guys, definitely replacing the bearings because who knows the mileage on these and it will be easier to replace the bearing on my workbench than in the car.
Thanks friends, some of the usual suspects here offering up great information to this BMW guy once again.
You can run stock top hats with the Ohlins, and for a street car I think they will work better from a reliability and NVH standpoint than uniball.
Now if you need more than about 2 degrees of camber in the front, you need aftermarket. Since you are not tracking the car, you don't need more camber than available through stock adjustment.
I took stock top hats pretty far on the track so am familiar with the performance they offer paired with the Ohlins.
Just throwing it out there.
Hmmmm, yes this is def not a track car so don't need the extra camber and good point about reliability/NVH. Using the stock top hats saves me about $500 and brings the price difference between Feal and Ohlins to about $900ish. I think for under $1000 price difference I probably want to go with Ohlins RT.
The entire costs of everything with Feal is roughly $5,000 and with Ohlins its about $5,900. In the long run I think I might not be happy and regret if I didn't get the Ohlins. I have some thinking to do for sure...
Thanks Z.
There is also a camber lock kit for the adjustable rear toe links that Tarret makes.. I don't know how useful it is. Some of the smarter guys here probably can tell us.
If u r going adjustable toe links then yes u should get the eccentric adjustment eliminaror kit. Its basically 2 offset washers and a bolt that prevent the alignment from slipping. All the adjustment will be in the link itself.
https://tarett.com/products/locking-...t-link-lkplt01
Tarett kit @ $95 it seems expensive for 2 bolts and 4 washers but it seams to be the going price of other kits.
I like those toe links and had a set before i went with some race care style links. I like them because u can replace the ball joint end with twr replacements for $35ea if they wear out.
I had my links copied wrong but you figured out what I meant. That's a nice perk of those toe links I didn't know, and the lock washers just make sense to use. I will get everything on that list and change everything all at once. My M3 is a huge bottle neck to my projects right now, waiting on my diff rebuild that's 4 weeks out so I can get that car out of the way and also ready for LimeRock...
I don�t use the washer kit because I don�t like to spend money on things that don�t seem to do anything for me. If the stock arms don�t slip then why would adjustable ones?
Kind of like why would you replace an oil filler tube or alternator bracket with an untested more expensive one when the ones you have are working perfectly?
Good point, I assumed it was a problem with all arms because of the design or something. If they don't move you for I could save the $100 initially and see if they are needed. I'm taking in so much info and trying to learn all I can about these cars, I am having a lot of fun with this.
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