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YOUR RESEARCHcan't get into my 996
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect waited 10 min's
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Disconnected, waited 10 Min's, reconnected, still nothing.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect waited 10 min's' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect waited 10 min's' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Disconnected, waited 10 Min's, reconnected, still nothing.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Both my fobs are toast and I'm waiting for the replacements to come from OrignalKeyless so I'm using the actual key to unlock the door.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Will take it to the dealer to install window and repair mechanical key lock.
Use emergency cable release, battery shows 13.7 volts, full charge
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Suggestion · Original poster
Got into frunk using emergency cable release, battery shows 13.7 volts, full charge.
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24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Pelican Parts: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T063944Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Parked and locked with keyfob, after a week or more sitting, keyfob won't unlock doors.
Key in door lock, manual unlock, nothing. Key turns but will not unlock.
Using a stiff wire to push lock button on dash does nothing. Pulling the inside door handle with a wire does nothing.
Got into frunk using emergency cable release, battery shows 13.7 volts, full charge. Disconnected, waited 10 Min's, reconnected, still nothing.
Key fob light flashes, interior receiver light flashes in response. Fob has new battery.
1999 C2, 6spd, ROW model, cable operated frunk and eng lid, nonelectric.
Suggestions? Reprogram the fob? Been working a week to get this thing open and not having any luck.
Tom
Panama
Hmm, that does seem odd. There is a not-so-well documented "extended sleep mode" that the cars go into when they haven't been messed with for a week or so. It can be difficult to get them out of that at times. I had issues with mine, but the door was not locked. There are a couple of procedures in the owners manual on what to do when the battery runs down and you can't open the locks, but I'm not sure that would apply in this case. It's possible that there's an issue with the alarm box / controller that is manifesting itself in this issue. I would not reprogram the key fob. I would try the alternative key fob or the 2nd spare one if you haven't done that already.
-Wayne
It sounds like you have two problems:
1. Your car is in sleep mode = normal after ~7 days.
2. Your manual door lock assembly connection has slipped/broken off of the tumbler disabling the manual lock. Not normal.
Long wire to reach and pull the interior door handle on the other side?
Sadly only have one key..
Is there an actual mechanical connection between the exterior door handle lockset and the unlock mechanism or is it all electrical?
Tom
Physical connection that can become dislodged.
From this post:
Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Door Lock Mechanism / Boxster Door Handle - 986 / 987
Comments: For future revisions of this you might want to consider showing the backside of the lock cylinder. Mine failed in an interesting way. On the back of the cylinder there's an oar shaped piece that indexes in the electric lock mechanism. This oar shaped piece is held to the cylinder with a roll pin. On my car the roll pin worked its way out and the oar piece fell to the bottom of the door
making it so that the key wouldn't unlock the door but the fob would
. I assumed I had a bad door lock mechanism.
October 30, 2014
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate
First time I have seen this trick. Maybe it will work for you?
From this thread
Help! Key won't open door! - 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa) - RennTech.org Forums
Yesterday I called a service manager where I take my car for service telling him about my situation. He told me I should pull the door handle as I turn the key and this should open the door. I plugged my battery back in and tried, though it did not open the door physically with the key, the remote started to work again.
Check this post it has good pic of the bad part.
Door Part Failure - 6speedonline.com Forums
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Both my fobs are toast and I'm waiting for the replacements to come from OrignalKeyless so I'm using the actual key to unlock the door. Today, after I got in the car and closed the door, I heard the sound of little metal bits falling inside the door. When I took the door apart, I found this...
Click the image to open in full size.
As I pondered my predicament, it occurred to me - what if this happened while I was locking the door from the outside? No fob, key not working - Yikes!
Anyway, my question is - looking at the piece that fell off - I'm thinking I need this part - 996 537 063 03. It is available with and without the tumbler - which has to come from Porsche because it matches the key. Is the broken part a piece of the tumbler or the support (part 15)?
Click the image to open in full size.
Has anyone done this and can confirm if I need to buy the tumbler or not?
Thank you to all for the replys.
I have tried every combination of using the fob, lifting the handle, turning the key that I can think of and nothing.
Assuming that something has broken off or failed in the tumbler, the only way to get to it is to remove the door panel, which is very hard to do with the doors closed and locked. Apart from breaking a window or using the plasma cutter to remove the sunroof, I'm at a complete loss.
What can it hurt/damage/destroy if I have the key reprogramed?
Tom
Great advise from the dealer today......Order the new right side door window before breaking out the old one. Right side window is 55.00 cheaper than the left side.
They need to get into the car to program it to a key.
The key doesn't get "programmed" The immobilizer in the car gets your new key code added to it.
The code is on the tag that comes with a new key.
Your old key can't be reprogrammed in to the car unless you have the code that goes with it.
When I had to get a new key head programed I had to bring the new one and the working one (one had died) with the car to the dealer.
They were able to tell which code was the good old one and left that one active when they entered the new one. So long way of saying the dealer can see the codes.
I don't know if the Durametric units can see the codes. As I understand they don't program key codes due to possible stolen car issues?
Most (all?) standard OBD readers are not sophisticated enough to interface with Porsche (or any manufacturers) specific codes. Just standardized Government mandated emission system codes.
Thanks Frank.
This am we broke the left side rear window, stuffed a skinny kid inside with the key. Key to on, pushed dash button and everything unlocked. 122.00 for a new window.
Will take it to the dealer to install window and repair mechanical key lock.
Thanks for the help to all.
Tom
Hi Frank, I don't think an extra key would have helped in this case. I'm convinced that the link between the lock tumbler broke or the pin holding it fell out. Then not using it for more than a week the fob went to sleep mode and that was it, nothing works. Waiting to see what they find at the dealer.
Tom
Tom, you are absolutely right. It would not have helped in this case.
But if/when the only head you have goes bad you will be relying on the manual lock again even if the car hasn't been sitting for 7 days.
I think this is normal isn't it? Not breaking of the window to get in, but the key remote not working after the car sits for awhile? I've had this exact problem for years and I posted the question here awhile back. I was told that when the car goes into sleep mode, it needs to be "awaken" by unlocking the car with the key?
I have 2 key remote heads and neither of them work after the car sits for awhile. When I unlock the door with the key, the remotes work fine until the car sits for a week or better, then I need to use the manual key again.
I'm thinking that getting an extra key remote or the system reprogrammed is not going to do anything and you will have the same situation again in a week or so? I would see about ordering a manual key just to be safe.
You are right about sleep mode. How will you unlock the door with the key after 7 days when the internal manual lock mechanism is broken as the OPs was?
Oops, I was using my phone and I missed that part for some reason. Yes, the broken part should definitely be fixed so that this doesnt happen again! Breaking the window was def the best option. Good to know that the glass is fairly inexpensive.
Btw, does anyone know why Porsche made this sleep mode? What purpose would it have? I dont think I have ever heard something like this with another make of vehicle.
As general info my Toyota Rav4 also has "sleep" mode. Goes into after two weeks of non-use. Apparently, not unusual for solid state/cpu cars with background stuff going on even while off.
He came by and managed to get the air bag under the glass but decided it was too risky to pump further as there are only about 12" from the door to the roof and does not want to chance breaking the glass. Said he would return with a narrower gauge wire opener. I may try to make a long slim jim with thin metal stock.
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