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YOUR RESEARCHModifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
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weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Now I've converted to a headless BT-only system: marine BT receiver --> remote level controller (disguised to look like the wiper speed controller) --> simple equalizer (with front/rear and left/right fading) hidden under the passenger seat --> factory amplifier (most likely the weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers.
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
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Leading evidence: 'weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace some cracked speaker grilles' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
To circle back on the speaker deletes, I only started looking into them because I wanted to replace some cracked speaker grilles.
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
Run kenwood double din head unit
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Suggestion · Original poster
Previously I was running a Kenwood double DIN head unit to the factory "hi-fi" amplifier and 10 speaker setup (option M490 non-Bose, non-MOST).
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
Test fitting
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well those didn't fit in the front (actually thought I'd be good after test fitting when my dash was out of the car).
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
Use factory 2 ohm door speakers
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm also still using the factory 2 ohm door speakers.
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
Use slightly different adapter design
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Suggestion · Original poster
I was instead able to mount some Polk DB402s in front using a slightly different adapter design with the original speaker grilles (which angle into the cabin more than the rear grilles and block off plates and have some other subtle differences).
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
Reported and suspected causes (1)
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weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Now I've converted to a headless BT-only system: marine BT receiver --> remote level controller (disguised to look like the wiper speed controller) --> simple equalizer (with front/rear and left/right fading) hidden under the passenger seat --> factory amplifier (most likely the weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers.
Modifying speaker delete grilles for aftermarket speakers
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T031046Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So I was getting some conflicting info as to whether the speaker delete grilles/block off plates can be modified for use with aftermarket speakers. The answer is: yes they can. Now for the details/pics.
Front side of the speaker delete grille
Backside view.
3D printed speaker mount adapter. I'm still tweaking the design but I've been able to mount speakers deeper than the limits discussed in some threads.
3-3/4" inch hole saw with 3D printed extensions/stops too prevent any damage to the grille. 3-7/8" would work as well.
Adapter mounted to the grille using the original hardware.
Everything ready to go.
And done.
Finished product. Inside already has the same foam as grilles with speakers.
And just in case there was any doubt...
Part number for the grille is 996-645-049-02-01C
https://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/o...IFJlc3VsdHM%3D
Looks like other colors are available if you search for 996-645-049-01, but they're significantly more expensive.
The finished product looks nice!
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the benefit of starting with a speaker delete grill rather than just the normal stock speaker grill?
Primary reason would be cost. Porsche doesn't sell the front/rear speaker grille without the speaker. The black block off plates are under $25. Now if you want something other than black it might be cheaper to buy the standard M441 (no tweeter) speaker and toss the new speaker in the trash. Another reason (depending on the speaker design) could be if you wanted a little meat for mounting the speaker to the grille, the resulting flange outside of the cut might be useful. But I haven't played around with trying to mount anything in that way.
Thinking about it. It'd probably be a one time use thing for most people though, so might make more sense to just loan out some kits with hole saw and all. Don't think 3-3/4 or 3-7/8 are common in most toolboxes, and the side cutouts that the stops fit into vary brand to brand.
Right now I'm just trying to figure some details with the speaker mount adapters that would expand our options. Originally I was going to install some Morel speakers all around, and designed my adapter based on those. Well those didn't fit in the front (actually thought I'd be good after test fitting when my dash was out of the car). I was instead able to mount some Polk DB402s in front using a slightly different adapter design with the original speaker grilles (which angle into the cabin more than the rear grilles and block off plates and have some other subtle differences). Based on the speaker dimensions discussed in other threads, those Polks should have been too large as well so I think I've got a good design. Looking at other speakers now, and planning to make a few design tweaks.
It'll be another week or so before I fire everything up and find out.
So I'm going a little unconventional with my setup. Previously I was running a Kenwood double DIN head unit to the factory "hi-fi" amplifier and 10 speaker setup (option M490 non-Bose, non-MOST). I really only ever listened to music or podcasts streamed thru my phone, and when rarely using navigation I've hated looking down at the screen. Now I've converted to a headless BT-only system: marine BT receiver --> remote level controller (disguised to look like the wiper speed controller) --> simple equalizer (with front/rear and left/right fading) hidden under the passenger seat --> factory amplifier (most likely the weak link now) --> aftermarket speakers. I'm also still using the factory 2 ohm door speakers. This is all accompanying the GT3 console delete and a storage shelf in normal single DIN OEM radio slot. The overall goal being a very minimalistic interior without sacrificing any of the functionality that I find useful. Here's a preview I posted last night:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17962058
To circle back on the speaker deletes, I only started looking into them because I wanted to replace some cracked speaker grilles. You can see how that snowballed.
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