I recently replaced the front Power Steering lines for my 2012
987.2 Cayman
and thought I’d share some instructions. I didn’t see a DIY so forgive me if this already exists and I missed it.
These instructions are based on my
987.2 Cayman
, but it should be the same for LHD Boxsters and 987.1s. I think the only difference is that the bolt for the steering rack shackle plate on 987.1s is M8 hex bit/allen key rather than M10 for
987.1
. Also, the power steering line part numbers might be different for .1s but I don’t think it is.
Overall, this was a fairly simple job that I think most everyone would be able to do with the right tools.
Links:
Cayman Undertray Removal
Tools/Supplies Needed:
Porsche OEM power steering line separator, or equivalent tool (part #: 000-721-978-00)
10mm and 19mm hex sockets
T25 and T30 Torx bits
M8 Hex bit socket/Allen key (M10 for 987.1)
A turkey baster or fluid extractor for siphoning old fluid out of the reservoir
A bucket or oil drain pan, to catch the old fluid
New Power Steering fluid (CHF 11S or CHF 202)
New High Pressure line (part #: 997-347-451-14)
New Lower Return line (part #: 987-347-449-13)
Jack and 4 jack stands to get the car up (you could probably get away with only 2 jack stands on the driver’s side, but it would definitely be more comfortable with all 4 corners raised)
Instructions:
Loosen the driver/left front wheel with the car on the ground
[19mm hex socket]
.
Jack the car up at all four corners and raise it so you can comfortably work underneath.
Remove the driver/left front wheel
[19mm hex socket]
.
Remove the front steering suspension undertray
[T25 Torx bit]
.
Remove the driver’s/left side undertray
[10mm hex socket]
.
Remove the rear undertray between the rear wheels
[10mm hex socket and T25 Torx bit]
, at least on the driver’s side.
With the trays removed, now is a good chance to clean them and remove any oil that collected from the PS fluid leak.
Remove the top engine cover
[interior trim removal tool and T30 Torx bit]
.
Remove the PS fluid reservoir cap and siphon
[Turkey Baster/Fluid Extractor]
as much fluid as you can from the reservoir.
Once the trays are fully removed, position the drain pan under the Return line in the middle of the car to catch the fluid.
Identify the power steering lines that run from the steering rack to a power steering junction box at the rear. Note the blue and black AC lines next to the PS lines in the middle of the car. The PS lines have a gold (dark bronze over time) connection while the black AC line has a white connection. Make sure not to open or damage the AC lines while you’re working on the PS lines.
Unlatch the two black plastic cable retainers that secure the cables in place underneath the car. Use a nail or flathead screwdriver to press in the clip holding the latch for the cable retainers. Once you press in the clip, the latch can be pulled down, allowing you to pull the cables out of the rubber holding them in place.
Using the
[power steering line separator, part 978]
, separate the connection for the thinner Return PS line. With beveled end of the tool towards the rear of the car, place the tool over the black rubber gasket separating the front lines from the rear. Gently push the tool up onto the black gasket. With the tool inserted, wiggle it back and forth to separate the pipe, then pull the return line forward. Allow the remaining power steering fluid to drain out of the system into the drain pan.
After the return line has emptied, separate the connection for the thicker High Pressure line and allow any remaining fluid to drain as well. More fluid will probably drain from this line than the return line.
Once the fluid is drained from the system, remove the bolt
[M8 Hex Bit (M10 for 987.1)]
securing the tension shackle (the plate holding the High Pressure and Return lines) to the steering rack. Remove the tension shackle plate and the bolt.
Unlatch the third black cable holder up behind the front driver’s wheel.
Remove the PS lines from the steering rack. Gently wiggle the line up and down and work it backwards out of the steering rack. (I pulled the High Pressure line firmly but smoothly to remove from steering rack but wiggling on the return line was better).
Once the High Pressure line is disconnected at the rear and the steering rack, remove it from the car by gently pulling it out rearward. Take note of how you snake the line out in order to install the new line.
Remove the Return line from the car, again taking note how you snake the line out.
Snake in the new return line from under the center of the car, forwards towards the steering rack. Roughly position the return line at the steering rack and in the plastic retainers along the line’s length.
Snake in the new high-pressure line in the same manner. It goes above the return line in the wheel well.
Make sure to transfer any clips that hold the line together or the rubber for the plastic retainers. Some of these may come out with the old line and should be installed on the new lines.
Position the new lines in place. Secure each line in the cable retainers and the black plastic clips that go onto both lines. Place the leads from the lines into the steering rack, but don’t press them in yet. You may need to adjust the lines forward and backwards a bit to get everything to sit right.
Once the new lines are fully in place and re-fitted into the cable retainers, gently push the cables into the steering rack, wiggling them into place. Then re-install the shackle plate and bolt.
[M8 Hex Bit (M10 for 987.1), torque to 17ftlb]
Reconnect both lines at the rear by pushing them together. You should feel a gentle click as the lines fit together.
Refill the power steering system at the reservoir. User either
CHF 11S
or
CHF 202
power steering fluid. Fill slowly, checking the fluid level as you go. It’s okay to fill slightly above the Max line on the reservoir cap at first because some fluid will flow throughout the system as you turn the steering wheel.
Now start the car and turn the steering wheel back and forth. Only run the car briefly to work the fluid throughout the system. Check for any leaks underneath the car. If you hear any sucking noises coming from the reservoir, immediately stop the car; most likely, the PS pump is running dry and needs more fluid.
Check the fluid level at the reservoir and add any necessary fluid. Note: the “Min” and “Max” lines on the PS reservoir cap are actually Cold and Hot lines respectively (this is for 987.2 only; idk what the cap is like on 987.1). Turn the car on again and turn the steering wheel back and forth. Repeat this process until the fluid level is correct.
With the fluid level correct, make sure to replace the PS cap and check again for any leaks underneath the car.
As long as there are no leaks and everything is good, start re-installing the undertrays.
Re-install the rear undertray
[10mm hex socket and T25 Torx bit]
.
Re-install the driver’s/left side undertray
[10mm hex socket]
.
Re-install the front steering suspension undertray
[T25 Torx bit]
. Start at the rear; slide the undertray backwards, slotting it into the middle and side trays.
Put the driver’s front wheel back on the car and tighten the lug bolts as much as you can with the car in the air.
Lower the car.
Torque the driver’s wheel to spec
[97 ftlb/130 Nm (2012 Owner’s manual says 118 ftlb/160 Nm)]
.
Replace the top engine cover
[T30 Torx bit]
.
Take the car for a short test drive. After returning, check for any leaks.
Here are some photos my girlfriend and I took as we went.
Power Steering Lines vs AC Lines
Note the power steering lines (the lower 2 black lines with bronze/gold connections). The other black line (with a white connection) and the blue lines are for the AC system - DO NOT disconnect these.
Power Steering Line Separator tool
Note the beveled edge on one side. Insert the tool onto the PS lines with this side towards the rear of the car.
Plastic Cable Retainers and Clips
Unlatch these by pressing a flathead screwdriver into the clip holding it closed. Make sure not to lose the rubber piece that the lines fit into. They like to fall out when you unlatch and remove the lines.
And plastic clips
Power Steering Connection at the Steering Rack
I originally planned to also replace the pressure hose at the rear (leading from the front high pressure hose to the PS pump), but it looks like you need to remove AC Compressor to do that hose, so I will probably need to take that in to a shop. That part number is 9A1-347-443-17 and is specific to 987.2.
Posts like this are why message boards are so awesome.
Sincerely, thank you.
A wonderful DIY! Congratulations on receiving the Technical Excellence Award - looking forward to any more you can create.
FWIW - the special fitting release tool - besides being for German vehicles, apparently Ford uses the same couplings on some cars it makes, and there is a version of the tool available for short money.. just a hint I got from a mechanic friend when we were doing a
fuel filter
on one of my BMWs (which used the same fitting.)
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/lisle-stc-fitting-release-tool-set/lis0/38450
Thank you. Looking to add more as I do some more work on the car.
Good to know about the Ford version of the tool available for a fraction of the price. The
Porsche
tool didn’t feel particularly special and I’m sure the Lisle fitting release tool would work exactly the same.
First off, I just want to thank you for doing this write-up. It gave me the confidence I needed to tackle this job myself.
For anyone reading this who has a
987.1
, you do NOT need the special tool listed above. You'll need two 19mm wrenches and two 15mm wrenches. The 19mm is for the high pressure line and the 15mm is for the return line. You put the wrench on both sides of the fitting and turn in opposite directions to disconnect the front lines from the rear lines.
Once the lines are disconnected, there are O-rings on the rear part of the fitting that need to be removed and a plastic "cage" looking thing that also needs to be removed. Once those are removed you can screw off the remaining part of the fitting as your new lines will come with new fittings.
Then it's just a matter of clicking the new front lines in exactly as
@three
outlined above. Hope this helps anyone with a .1 and thank you again
@three
for the writeup!
I discovered this thread and that the o-ring around my power steering line is torn and could fall off, but it doesn't seem to be leaking. How important is it? I'm debating whether to buy the tools to properly disconnect the line to flush the system, or do it the old-fashioned way at the reservoir. If the o-ring is vital, then I guess my path is decided.
Can we see a photo of what you're seeing?? AFAIK, there are no visible O-rings in the PS plumbing..
Sorry that would’ve been helpful. After removing it, it doesn’t appear to be an o ring since it’s not solid. I looked in the PET and you are right it doesn’t show an o ring or any additional gasket at this connection. What is the purpose of these rubber pieces?
I have another question. On my 2012
Cayman
R there is no blue line
next
to the white connector as shown in the diy. There are, what I assume are brake lines, that connect in an aluminum housing with brake line fittings
I have another question. I am doing a flush on the system, and made a big mess-stake, by turning on the engine to flush it. Lesson learned to pay closer attention to YT videos.
I had the rearward end of the thinner line plugged, but when the engine turned on, the
plug
shot forward with fluid going that way. It didn’t make sense as fluid should be going the other way if that is the return line.
There is a tool, you can get on at autoparts stores (the fitting is used on more than Porsches) that squeezes the flange and the body of the fitting together. The rubber ring appears to be a protective ring to keep crap out of the junction.
Make sure it's the right line. #1 is the return line #2 is the pressure line. It actually makes sense that the pressure line is smaller diameter. I'd suggest a subscription to alldatadiy.com - it's very complete...
Well interestingly, the R doesn’t have that cooling loop in it, in addition to not having the blue pipe. By the diagram you shared it looks like the wider pipe is the return line,
I found a Porsche procedure PDF for the 911, and it says the thicker line is the return, which I agree does make sense. I think the OP may want to update step 13 to reflect.
I also I found the repair kit for the internal green o-ring and the black rubber boot that is torn in my case. It says it only fits the 997.2 Turbo, but looking at a new PS line it looks like the same part.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/9p1698009.htm?pn=9p1698009&KeepHeader=Y&SVSVSI=
While I didn't do the work, I believe the .2 cars have a coolant/oil heat exchanger for it in the engine compartment. Just sayin.. that's why there are 3 flexible lines on the .2 vs 2 on the .1
This will be super helpful for many people, thanks for posting. Is there a consensus on when these lines typically tend to fail (in years or miles)? I'm sure it will be partly dependent on how the cars are driven and stored, plus whether the power steering fluid is changed regularly.
Does the R have the center radiator opening? I've seen PS oil cooler loops located ahead of a radiator on other Porsche models... just wondering why it might be different...
