Key issues and locking Problems. Fob too 😨

Good afternoon everyone. I’m having an interesting series of problems. After having not used my 996 for a month, the fob decided to stop communicating with the car. Not the usual 5 day lockout. But no communication at all. I believe the rolling code may have jumped out of sequence. To resolve this, I believe it needs to be on a diagnostic obd2. 2nd issue. The steering wheel lock decided to not engage today. It’s in the “unlocked” position thankfully. And 20 mins later the key made for the ignition barrel decided to join in too. The key was very difficult to insert. And upon removing the key (with some difficulty) I get a brief error message “remove key from ignition”. If I tap the ignition barrel area, the message goes away. Cost is no isssue. I am not looking for a cheap fix. I would like to get this work done professionally. Has anyone had the full 3-2-1 combination, like the above . Any recommendations for where to get the work done ? West London would be great. Willing to travel for the job to be done properly. My 996 is pretty much in the collector grade bracket. So I want to preserve its provenance 100%. Any input, advice, would be most appreciated Thank you.

That sounds less like three separate faults and more like the ignition/immobiliser side starting to have a moment. The fob not talking, steering lock behaviour and “remove key” message all point me towards the ignition switch/barrel/steering lock assembly and alarm/immobiliser coding rather than just a dead remote. I wouldn’t keep trying to force the key if it’s getting tight in the barrel. Last thing you want is it stuck or snapped. Given the car’s condition and your provenance point, I’d take it to a proper Porsche specialist or auto locksmith who understands 996 immobiliser/key/barrel work, not a general garage. West London-wise, I’d be looking for a known Porsche indie first, then a specialist vehicle locksmith if barrel/key work is needed. First job is proper diagnosis of the ignition switch/barrel and alarm module/key sync, then fix it once rather than chasing the fob separately.

It needs PIWIS diagnostics as a starting point. So you are looking at Main Dealer or specialist. Maybe ring some of the specialist sponsors on this site?

Reverse your key fob battery for 10 seconds, then put back in and try. Should possibly fix the fob issue. Squirt some wd40 in the key barrel and use the key in it a few times. Possibly sort your lock too. Porsche did a bulletin on it here:

Keyfob will be knackered, I bet - you need PixelsFixed or similar to program a new fob for you … You’ve had a coincidence with lock barrel and keyfob happening at same time I reckon, but both of my fobs stopped working at almost exactly the same time, even though one used much less than the other!

The first issue, key fob remote PCB not triggering the remote unlock and alarm switch-off, is not typically fixable over OBD alone. The procedures supported by the M534 alarm module including teaching a new remote PCB but this requires the original paper tag with 12 byte code to be entered and also a pin. These tags come with a brand new PCB but are typically discarded after the initial teaching, probably many years ago. The pin can be supplied from a dealer or extracted as per below. These 12 bytes codes and pin can be retrieved from the M534 but this requires the module to be removed from the vehicle and an EEPROM dump to be extracted using a suitable reader clip. Assuming the M534 alarm module is healthy and not water damaged, the key fob can be reinitialised by Fobfix (commercial specialist locksmith in Yorkshire) and taught to the car. He will typically need the M534 module and the old remote PCB if your vehicle is distant. His proprietary technology can reprogram the PIC controller on the remote PCB to act as brand new with a new code. He then teaches the remote to your M534 in one of the four slots. The slot number also relates to your electric seat memory if fitted. The system will work normally immediately upon reinstalling the module under the passenger seat. The ignition barrel issue sounds purely mechanical, if you had any issues with the ID48 immobiliser pill inside the key the car would not start. This route preserves OEM entirely since no new parts are typically required in terms of key, fob or alarm module. Fobfix can work from an EEPROM dump if you don't wish to commit your M534 alarm module to post but this requires somebody local to remove, read, and write back the updated EEPROM data supplied.

Thank you to everyone who has replied. I have contacted a very well known independent in west London. I have the car booked in. The initial diagnosis is ignition switch. However the car will be put onto a diagnostic to see what’s actually happening. Having read the reviews of the garage I am very optimistic the issues will be resolved. The car is booked for next week. As soon as I have it fixed, I will update this thread with the cause, and solution, to the issues I am having. Fingers crossed.

FIXED. All issues have now been resolved . All the mechanical issues were caused by a faulty electric ignition switch. Thank you.

Ignition switch is most common cause of key stiffness of not ejecting issues and is also often as the heart of dodgy electrical gremlins. Faily easy DIY replacement, easier on RHD than LHD as the lock/barrel assembly is inverted compared to LHD, so if you are ever tempted to do it yourself get a RHD video on YT and ignore most of the LHD advice from Europe or over the pond.