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YOUR RESEARCHRace Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?
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Install some wall mounts
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Since my 996 was away I installed some wall mounts for my QuickJacks so they no longer have to be stored under my 996.
Race Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?
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Naturally I can lift the car up with two jacks and two stands at the rear but then I run into the issue that the front is not braked other that with chocks is that safe?
Race Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?
Use 2 post lift i purchased
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Race Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?
Use 4 ramps
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I use 4 ramps because my concrete is nearly level.
Race Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?
Use dollar tree bread pan
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I use a old dollar tree bread pan under the oil filter.
Race Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?
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Hi all,
I will begin servicing my cars in the new location without my friends lift. Now I know this might seem like a trivial question BUT :-D. All I want to do is a oil change with this procedure.
Naturally I can lift the car up with two jacks and two stands at the rear but then I run into the issue that the front is not braked other that with chocks is that safe? Or should I make some ramps out of wood? Or should I just get a set of service race ramps? I hate being under the car unless it's an actual lift.
Last question, I have a better spot in front of the house with a 2-3 degree grade, is it really that dangerous. For the questions above I have a flat floor of course.
Thanks !
Are you able to park the car at the edge of the garage/driveway and lay down in the driveway? That method usually allows enough room to change the oil with the car on the ground.
With a 2350mm wheelbase, a 3 percent grade would be ~70mm. If you get the 3" race ramps, you'll bring the car nearly back to level(75mm). Perfect for draining the oil. I use 4 ramps because my concrete is nearly level. Good luck!
I don't jack up the car or use ramps for an oil change. I have a low profile oil pan that just slides right under and can hold a little over ten quarts. For safer and easy. Car is on stock suspension. I also have the spin on oil filter adapter. I just reach in with my hand to loosen.
I staggered two 2x12's on top of each other for each side, flat on the ground, and just drove the car onto them. I've had those boards for decades, they were just the length of the wheelbase, I stacked a some scrap 2x6's at the front to give me a little more length. I don't keep up with lumber prices, those boards would probably be pretty pricey these days. But if you have some 2x's laying around, you can rig something up pretty quick and easy.
OP - Liftbars are boss. The
only
quibble with the bars is I have to run up on boards to get bars (resting on jack pad) under the lowered car. So why not drive up on 2x4s? Plenty of room to get a torque wrench under the pan
if
your drip pan is low enough.
I have Race Ramps and a homemade lift bar. For oil changes, I find that the ramps are easiest. I jack up the front to make the car closer to level for the oil to drain.
4 jackstands. 1 jack.
lift up one side from the rear jacking point, place jackstand under front jacking point on same side
repeat the process on the other side, now the front of the car is in the air
lift the whole rear from the cross-beam-support between the engine and transmission (pictured)
slide jackstands under the two rear jacking points, lower the jack
car is now elevated and level
I think I do the same thing, just back the car out of the garage until the rear wheels are about to exit the garage floor. I have enough room to pull drain plugs and drain oil without any lift, jacks, or ramps.
I do put down plastic first and keep a roll of paper towels handy.
For serious work I have a set of
QuikJacks
QuikJacks
that make life a whole lot easier.
Car is lowered so I used to park on a pair of 2x10�s. Now I use the quickjack. Can also roll around on a creeper and see what else is going on under the car while it�s draining. Well worth the investment and useful for the other cars too.
I used to hang my 996 off the edge of my garage because there was a 2 inch drop to the driveway.
When I had a new driveway poured they leveled it to the garage and that was no longer possible.
About the same time I purchased a used BL5000SLX QuickJack off Craigslist.
It's awesome!
I now use it for oil changes because I can also get underneath on a creeper and inspect everything.
That’s where the QuickJacks were stored and I was able to park over them.
My driveway is curved, so I have to come in at an angle.
This marks where the my needed to be.
As you can see it is angled.
Since my 996 was away I installed some wall mounts for my QuickJacks so they no longer have to be stored under my 996.
While I was down, the garage got junked up and I still haven’t cleaned and straightened!
Too much, “put it in the garage and dad will take care of it when he is better.”
Hmm, that's mainly my son's toolbox and junk.
My workbench looks even worse!
But that's where most of the six months of "put it in there and let Dad sort it out later" stuff has been dumped.
I had to hang them on the wall mainly because my wife has been parking in the garage while my 996 has been away.
I was afraid she might actually run over them so I quickly put up the mounts and hung them on the wall.
She knows she is about to be evicted from the garage.
The 996 is worth more than the new RAV4 I purchased her back in April so it gets to stay in the garage.
We have a "2 car" garage, but with my tire rack and hurricane shutters, and portable air-conditioner, and residential trash can, and some tools, 2 cars are not easy to squeeze in.
One of my best tool purchases.
Con:
They are not a full height 2-point lift.(No room for one though in my garage)
They require SUV adapter in order to gain enough height to drop an M9x
Cost (they are not cheap)
Lift bars or jack stands are cheaper
Pro:
They can be stored out of the way so you don't have to walk around/sneak past them like like a typical 2-point lift.
They can be used to drop an M9x
Cost (they are MUCH cheaper than 2-point lifts)
MUCH safer than jack stands
In April 2020 while preparing for a UAOS install one my jack stands tilted and slipped and my car fell.
Luckily there was no damage and no one was hurt.
But I decided to replace my 30+ year old jack stands with something heavier duty.
When I was shopping I discovered that Harbor Freight jack stands had just been recalled due to failures.
I decided to purchase a QuickJack.
I had previously helped a Rennlister assemble his and decided THAT was what I wanted.
I started gathering the money to purchase them and was just days from ordering them when someone posted a used BL5000SLX on Craigslist for 1/4 the price.
I jumped at it and bought it.
When I got home my 996 would not fit.
After measuring I discovered that I had actually purchased a BL7000SLX that would not work.
I was able to purchase new 5000SLX frame assemblies and ended up with 2 QuickJacks for a little less than the price of 1.
They can be moved track-side, or loaned to friends.
Cheap solution for working on 2 vehicles at 1 time.
When I had 2 sets of frame assemblies I was able to have 2 vehicles in the air at one time.
https://www.quickjack.com/parts/frame-assembly/
But storing 2 sets of frame assemblies got to be too much so I sold my extra set.(BL7000SLX)
Great story! Hear is my story....My son (31) had a friend who owned a detail shop. They were selling the Quickjack and were having a full size 2 point lift installed. My son wanted me to go in half on the purchase which I did. Sale price of the used lift $900, my part $450. It stayed at my house till he needed it at his house. Then he loaned it to friends to use. Bottom line I just bought my own. That's how kids con you into going in on the deal. My son is a BMW M3 guy. I was till I saw the light!
i've debated the quick jacks many times and have decided to suffer with my jack/4jackstands until I own a home and then I will get a two post lift.
i'm like mike ehrmantraut on half measures
I did the clutch etc. on my Z4MC on jackstands. Never again. I'm too old for that ****. Plus I had the classic event occur when, after the car had been sitting there for weeks, I was doing something underneath and pushing and pulling myself around under the car by grabbing anything available, and one of the jackstands shifted. I won't lie, there may have been brown stains in the laundry that day.
I use my 2 post lift I purchased used . Best $900.00 I ever spent . Challenger 7k made in the USA . Doing any work under the car standing upright like a human being is a beautiful thing 😋
Hi there,
Many thanks, however I have seen this YT and the guy says absolutely do not lift by the center crossmember
You Tube
what are your thoughts on this?
You are right, I tried and I have enough clearance I ordered a set of these
https://www.ebay.de/itm/274986457137
They raise the car by 2 inches or so and I should have more than enough room to do an oil change and it's the fastest / simplest. Thanks for the tip! I was used to the fact that the e46 you needed to be further in.
I would love to get a set of quick jacks, but here in E.U. the DIY market is either super expensive or things are unavailable, I miss the U.S. for that. As an example a set of race ramps or quick jacks as they must be imported and no equivalent is here is 50% more expensive +/-
If you can't use a QuickJack, Jackpoint stands are the best and
safest
alternative on the planet.
https://jackpointjackstands.com
I have a pair I bought long before the QuickJack and they are designed to use the same lift points on the 911 instead of frame members.
Hi. I've seen this guy's videos and I like him.
The only thing I can guess, is if you look at the cross-member he shows in the video, and the one pictured in the 996 Bentley book, they are quite different. It looks like the 996 cross member has an additional support. In the video the 997 has just the suspension cross member. I have never owned a 997 or the 997 service manual. perhaps someone could shed light on how that service manual recommends lifting the car with a jack/stands.
But for the 996, the method I described and pictured is direct from the service manual and I've done it countless times without bending that cross member support. But, that doesn't mean it is the absolute best way, it may be better to do it the way he describes, I just follow the book.
Good point, I trust a book more than a YTber, however I also found another reference for your method.
https://drivediy.dozuki.com/Guide/Ho...ion+Install/38
Would be great if someone could clarify.
Jacks on a 3 degree are safe. Make sure the non-jacked wheels are well chocked.
I actually made a mistake on my first reply about the difference in height. You said 3 degree grade, but I calculated for a 3% grade. The calculation I used was just a percent calculation. 3% of the wheelbase, 2350mm is 70.5mm. 3 degrees is a steeper slope. Trigonometry equation (wheelbase)*sin(angle) = height change. 2350 * sin(3 degrees) = 123mm. You will need a 5 inch ramps to level out the car instead of the 3 inch ramps I mentioned before.
Now, how level does it 'need' to be? I don't know. But the less level, the less old oil will drain... My concrete pad has 37mm drop from front to rear and 10mm slope from side to side. I don't account for this and always need 8-9qts of oil when I fill. Changing every 6 months. I'm not worried.
Thanks! :-).
I proceeded with making 4 custom "Carrera" ramps. Using spruce with a height of 9,5cm and widht of 30cm to clear aerokitted cars with 295 section rear tires. Incl. torx screws, glue and boat lacquer which. :-), I might get quick jacks in the future, but a pair of race ramps in Europe is 1000ish USD.
Depends on the jack, a good wide heavy duty floor jack is very stable, a narrow "hobbyist" jack not as much.
I don't care as much about jacking as the jack stands. I never work under a car,
not even tire rotation without a couple stands and lowering on to them. I keep the jack (dropped down) under the car in case a stand fails.
My Shop teacher in 1980,,, "Jacks don't apologize for failing."
Liftbars.com is where I found them. Came recommended from others on this forum. Unlike homemade ones, bars have a slight built in angle so the end pins are the only point of contact to the frame and the ends are rounded so they roll freely in the curved axle part of your jack stands.
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Been very happy with EZcarlift, no hydraulics or hoses to deal with. all is needed is a drill. Only draw back in my case, because my car is very low I do need to drive it on top of 2x4's before I can slide the carlift under it. They sell a drive up option but haven't looked at it in detail
My son-in-law has one of those. For the number of times he uses a lift it is a great option. Folks should be aware that the two pieces are connected, so there will be bars across the underside of the car when it's in the air.
Correct the two pieces are connected, but the rear lift cross member can be taken off once the car is in the air for easy access to the transmission and rear of the car
I change my oil on the ground no issues.. And I DONT fit under the car, only tricky bit is the drain pan I use is a 12 quart, fits under car but when all the oil is drained you do have to pull it out slow and steady.
I use a old dollar tree bread pan under the oil filter.
I've got a EZ Car Lift as well, but I don't generally use it for oil changes only (if I have other stuff I need to get done under there sure...). I've had it for about 3 1/2 years and its been great. I use wood ramps as well to get the car high enough to roll the EZ lift under.
If you drain the car wen not level, then level the car and drain it, the amount of oil you get after its level and allowed to drain is fairly impressive. YMMV...
QuickJacks here too. First oil change for the new engine. These things are fantastic. Need a 5 gallon bucket for the oil it is so high. Ignore the junky garage, it is a work in progress.
There are several low profile oil pans available, like from AutoZone or Reillys. The one I have I got at Walmart probably like 25 years ago. Just make sure it holds 10 quarts and has a large drain hole. The oil comes out fast.
My solution: A couple wood blocks under one tire (yes, I bought new PS4s!), a $6 frypan splatter screen and whatever trash oil collector I had lying around. The splatter screen ensures there's zero mess. Could probably get it done without the wood but it makes it a bit more comfy taking care of the oil tank.
