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YOUR RESEARCHPlanning a clutch replacement
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Replace clutch
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My clutch was replaced at 38k miles and 30k miles after the replacement, no issues.
Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace clutch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Pelican Parts: 1 discussions
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I've recently purchased a 2003 911 C2 Cabriolet.
During the PPI the mechanic identified that the clutch was wearing. It might last a year or it might last several years depending on how hard I drive it. I'm going to make this my winter project.
So, I'm going to do the clutch, the RMS, and the IMS bearing (ln engineering kit).
My overall plan for the car is to continually upgrade it as I go. So, with respect to the clutch, a few questions:
- Moving to a light-weight single mass flywheel. I hear different opinions on this wrt the M96 engine. Would the IMS bearing replacement alleviate any related reliability concerns? Which one's have people had success with ? What kind of performance gain should I expect?
- Pressure plates, discs etc. What are people liking.
For background, my objective is to build an awesome street machine that I track periodically. The enjoyment for me is more in the doing than the racing.
Thanks!
Phil.
Congratulations on your purchase, I am in the market for a simular car/project.
Sounds to me like you have a good plan with the exception of the single mass flywheel. The OEM dual mass flywheel dampens engine harmonic vibrations & the in & out shock of clutch engagement. Eliminate the dampening & risk crankshaft failure!
My car, 2003 C2 Cab,
I went with a LWFW and new clutch assy. My clutch was replaced at 38k miles and 30k miles after the replacement, no issues.
When you remove the OEM clutch assy and flywheel (including the dampening parts) you WILL get transmission noise in the cabin and a clacking noise from the transmission.
If you do not want the noise, do not go with the LWFW setup.
That said, the vehicle does spin up real nice!
I do not track the vehicle.
Yeah...I've heard about the additional cabin noise. So,
- How bad *is* it? (for Mookster and others that have done the mod)
- Does the improvement in responsiveness outweigh the noise?
The additional noise will most likely bother you idling at stop lights vs. driving.
I went with the LWFW set up on the recommendation of my mechanic for longevity and fun vs quite. As a side note, 37k on the original clutch for normal driving is ridiculous. I never heard of the crankshaft failing prior to the change. I do not redline the vehicle or push it to the limits either.
My mechanic also advised that the LWFW set up would take some pressure off the RMS and keep it from leaking in the future (the clutch was discovered worn, 80%+ when we fixed the RMS).
The LWFW set up is not cheap. The vehicle is a cab. The wind noise, road noise and transmission noise are part of the ride.
If you go with the LWFW setup it will take a day to relearn to drive the vehicle. It does spin up faster. Longevity and wear, 30k into it and no problems to date. I cannot tell you if it does wear better, yet.
I hope my input helps which ever direction you go.
