Sticking ignition barrel

Good evening all, Has anyone had experience of an ignition barrel that is hard to get the key in? If so have you experienced problems locking the car as a consequence. My key is hard to get into the ignition and I am also having issues locking the car with the central locking. If I lock the car with the door the horn cherps once and the passenger is still unlocked. Any thoughts?

There is a rotary switch at the end of the ignition barrel that is known to fail. This is most likely the cause. When it begins to fail is stops the barrell returning correctly, which creates problems removing the key and switching the car off. It's an inexpensive part and something that can be fitted by a competent diy-er . If you google the problem or search on YouTube I'm sure you'll find a well put-together guide. KR Lee

You mean like this one? https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=231803

Thanks for the input. The key doesn't get stuck in the ignition, it is had getting it in and turning the key. And an observation i picked up is the latches (best description i have) inside the ignition do not release. So is this still attributed to the switch ? Plus if the car still thinks there is a key in the ignition would that explain why i then cannot lock the car. ?

Recently my ignition key stuck in. car could be started and stopped OK just key could not be removed. No prior warning of impending fault. Bit of a stripping match to repair so I farmed job out to my independent to replace offending part, I did not want to damage any dashboard plastics. Yes think it was switch at end of ignition barrel. All fixed now.

Hi to Richard, Thanks for your excellent post - but where have the photos and the attached PDF gone? [ ]. Yesterday my ignition got very sticky, and I thought WD40 but that had the opposite to the intended effect. I now can't lock the car and I can't put the key in the ignition either! I have ordered a new switch via Amazon but I am having trouble finding the right video or picture to view on the fitting. Perhaps I will have to photo my own trial and error efforts?! Cheers, Greg

Problem with the technical articles section..... Here is the DIY:

Richard, Sorry I didn't get notified when you replied, hence the long delay. However I am now sitting with the new ignition barrel in my hand and a new found confidence from that excellent piece of instruction. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers! Greg

[ ] So I spent a bit longer than the prescribed 20 minutes on this. At first I didn't want to remove the heater vent so I tried going in from underneath. I removed the air connection pipe - then found that I could quite easily get to the area with my head below the clutch and my elbow between accelerator and brake! Word to the wise: don't attempt this unless you are quite skinny. Seat needs to be fully back, door wide open and steering wheel fully out. This is a (not great) picture from underneath with the arrows marking the lugs with the grub-screws in: My main issue with this route was an inability to see what the grub screw entry points were like and what size of screwdriver to use. (I found later it needs to be a 3mm flat blade.) So eventually I went in with Richard's prescribed route. Going in from the top I tried one of those micro-screwdrivers but I couldn't get enough torque with my fingers, even when I wrapped it in insulating tape. Then I remembered a superb little ratchet driver that I bought a while back in MachineMart. It was ideal once I found the right bits, both for the Torx screws which held the vent to the dash, and the grub screws. In the above picture you can see my armoury for the day plus the failed mini-screwdriver. I knew this was going to work when I pulled the old unit and there was a satisfying clunk from the steering lock. I was still amazed to find my key actually went in the barrel when I got the new part on. Thank you very much Richard. Without your help and this thread my Boxster would have needed a tow to the nearest Porsche Centre and no doubt it would have been a large bill. In the end I spent just £16.48 to get the new switch from Germany via Amazon. I'm absolutely chuffed to get my wonderful car back after a month out of action! Greg

Well done, a great sense of satisfaction fixing it yourself especially when you have a good idea how much money it saved.

You're right Graeme - I just won't mention some of the expletives midway through the job

Hi All FYI it's becoming a very common issue with age and the part is VW/Audi one and should be available over the counter at any GSF or Euro part depot. cost around £20, I paid £14:75 in 2014.

Thanks very much for that article - Looks just what I need.. Mind you, I'm half way through & those grub screws will not budge! I've ordered some offset screwdrivers to get some more leverage..

Well that was a PITA.... After getting nowhere with those screws, I decided it was easier to remove the whole steering lock, which makes it a bigger job. Removing the screws is much simpler when you can see them! Relieved to feel the key working smoothly again & hear the car to fire up

Richard's instructions are brilliant! I sourced some longer tools from Screwfix to get at the grub screws. Cheap and worked a treat.

I think many of us have had to do this during our ownership. At least this is one of the less expensive tasks to undertake. A little tricky but very satisfying once completed, well done.