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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHClutch Slipping or Not?
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Repair these engines
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All the experts that have studied and repaired these engines for years have strong opinions against light weight flywheels.
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Not a lot of miles since it was purportedly replaced�.
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Suggestion
One good thing is they only charged 1.5 hours ( $180) to replace the AOS while the trans was out ( which is right IMHO ) , somebody just posted a shop that wanted $700 to do the same thing....
Replace coupler soon regardless and will likely separate transaxle
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Suggestion · Original poster
Replacing coupler soon regardless and will likely separate transaxle from engine while I�m at it.
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Suggestion
While you're in there, replace the Vertex bearing with the LN Engineering oil-fed IMS Solution, OEM Rear Main Seal, OEM AOS, Crank Position Sensor, and even the Oil Cooler.
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Suggestion
One good thing is they only charged 1.5 hours ( $180) to replace the AOS while the trans was out ( which is right IMHO ) , somebody just posted a shop that wanted $700 to do the same thing....
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Suggestion
While you're in there, replace the Vertex bearing with the LN Engineering oil-fed IMS Solution, OEM Rear Main Seal, OEM AOS, Crank Position Sensor, and even the Oil Cooler.
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Hi all - Need your help.
Recently had top bid on attached 996 C4S. Records show IMS and clutch done at 70k miles 12/2017.
Now has 89k miles. Test drive felt strong. Now noticed that under harder acceleration, power builds and delivered like a turbo�.meaning it takes time to build, but not as direct/solid.
Happens when just past 3500rpm, so when Vario-Cam is building torque.
Immediately felt like clutch was slipping.
Did 5th gear start from standstill test and it stalled, as it should with a good clutch.
When changing oil, transaxle oil, and front diff oil, noticed front driveline rag-joint/coupler is significantly cracked.
Trying to determine if there are any other considerations/causes for the slipping clutch feel?
Replacing coupler soon regardless and will likely separate transaxle from engine while I�m at it. Just want to have more ideas going into it.
Not my only car, so don�t need to order new clutch at risk.
Just doesn�t seem likely that the clutch could have been worn this quickly. Not a lot of miles since it was purportedly replaced�.
Ideas?
Vertex eh?
that could be your first clue�I�ve bought things from them that I had to return because it wasn�t what it was supposed to be. They also sell parts that are known to break� perhaps they can shed some light on your problem�
The telltale sign of clutch slipping is an increase in RPM that�s not directly related to an increase in vehicle speed. It�s normal for the 996/997 to have a big torque increase at 3500 RPM on up to 4200 and beyond.
It should be pretty noticeable if the clutch is slipping.
Yes plan on calling them tomorrow. Not counting on much. Two owners ago�. Worse will be if their IMS solution is leaking� has anyone seen where oil leak there gets on pressure plate somehow?
I hope seller just drove it like a putz and didn�t know there was an issue. On test drive he said �That�s the hardest the car has been driven��
I should be able to drive it like my 993, maybe not envelope of my 997 GT3�.but still�
Put the car in 5th gear at, say, 20MPH and tromp the gas. (With your FL location I'm assuming you don't have any real hills nearby.) If the clutch is slipping you'll know. The tach will go up, the speedo will not.
I wouldn't even ask them for help on the clutch job that was two owners and 5 years ago.... it only takes 30 seconds for some nit-wit to burn up a clutch...
One good thing is they only charged 1.5 hours ( $180) to replace the AOS while the trans was out ( which is right IMHO ) , somebody just posted a shop that wanted $700 to do the same thing....
Ya, good excuse to do LWFW, while I�m in there. Have a shop and this is within my wheelhouse, But will need some tall screw jack stands and some sort of tranny lift or table� I have a 42� mid lift Twin Busch for MX and an Autostacker for storage.
Agree with ^^^
Our crankshafts do NOT react well to LWFW. Harmonious imbalance which is what the Dual Mass Flywheel absorbs. Please do some research as it relates in particular to our engines. Unless your plan is to race your car and rebuild your engine twice a season.
All the experts that have studied and repaired these engines for years have strong opinions against light weight flywheels. Stick with the OEM LuK Dual Mass Flywheel and SACS clutch kit. While you're in there, replace the Vertex bearing with the LN Engineering oil-fed IMS Solution, OEM Rear Main Seal, OEM AOS, Crank Position Sensor, and even the Oil Cooler.
Besides the "not recommended for the 996 Carrera, but another thing to consider is that a lightweight flywheel and clutch will not necessarily help you if your footwork is not up to snuff.
Then again, I don't know your level of driving expertise. I may be off the mark. If so, please forgive me.
When did you buy it and did you ask the seller? You don't say which auction venue it was, but most auctions give some rights to the buyer if the car doesn't match the representation. It's pretty hard to miss a slipping clutch. Even if somebody normally drives conservatively, it's still very likely that they are going to feel it (e.g. when accelerating to merge with traffic). It seems like it would be worthwhile to reach the seller.
I believe Bosch is the OE on this part. I would just stick with Bosch with a little discount over genuine Porsche part. It's not entirely hard to replace it after the fact.
What we need to determine is if you're using OEM Porsche crest center caps and if the tip of the shields on those caps are correctly pointing towards the valve stem. This a unique design component of these cars by the factory. You see, the OEM center caps are dynamically balanced to the flywheel and getting them off by a few degrees from the flywheel could cause undo wear on the pressure plate and clutch. If ignored too long, the unbalanced clutch could cause permanent damage to the transmission. The newest version of the Durametric can also test to insure all caps are within factory tolerance. It's called "center cap deviations" under live data. You can't be off by 6 degrees or corrective action needs to be done. If you don't have a Durametic, take a picture off all wheels and post here so that we can help.
You forgot to mention the Frizzen Encabulator which controls the inertial mass of the buoyant float pivots of the pressure plate. The FGMN sensor reads dynamic thermal expansion of the TPS sensor in relation to the center cap point. BTW, FGMN is the ForGet Me Not sensor, made by Busch in China. In addition, only a certified Busch engineer-technician will be able to ..snip,,,"take a picture
off all wheels
and post here."..snip, quite difficult and expensive.
YMMV
Clutch slip is anytime you are using the clutch pedal and the engine and trans output shaft is moving faster or slower than the half-shafts that drive the wheels. So yes, slow moving, inching into a garage or driveway when we�re using the clutch is slippage.
That slippage, however, is not generating much heat or wear because the horsepower requirement to move the car, flat, a short distance, is possibly 1HP or less. In theory, you�re �using the clutch,� but can probably get 150,000 miles out of this type of use. Depends on how much and how long. I wouldn�t do this for, say, more than 20 seconds at a time.
Clutch slip in your last sentence is just 10X factor compared to the above example. One is more abusive; one is just usage.
Mike, I like to think of it in simpler terms. That is, a "slipping clutch" is when a clutch doesn't properly engage with the flywheel. Tell Tale sign is when you apply the accelerator (i.e. rising RPM on the tach), but the car does not increase in speed. Common symptom is a horrible squealing noise.
In all seriousness to
@irontmp
, IMHO, any time you work the clutch pedal on and off under heavy torque loads, excessive wear to the clutch over time will occur. But I think your biggest concern is the lack of adequate parking space. If you don't have much more than 15mm (less than an inch) at the fender edge, then you probably need to find another place to park. How in the world do you get out of your car? Through the sunroof?
Plus, because of torque, you more likely to damage the car if you mistakenly pop the clutch pedal and the car lunges forward.
Easiest way to fix the bad habit of riding a 996 clutch is to take out your helper spring. Clutch will work fine but it will be very heavy and either in or out.
And don't valet park your 996.
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