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YOUR RESEARCH2000 996 Won't Start, Help!
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Check grounds ll tight and i put dielectrics grease
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checked grounds ll tight and I put dielectrics grease
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Also I recently removed and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner because my idle seemed a little rough.
You say.."Also I recently removed and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner because my idle seemed a little rough." I presume that was BEFORE the car failed to start.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Yes the MAF was cleaned about two weeks before this issue.
You say.."Also I recently removed and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner because my idle seemed a little rough." I presume that was BEFORE the car failed to start.
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Hi all, first and foremost, I am new to the forum. I have owned my 2000 996 Cabriolet for just over 3 years now. Currently it has 66k miles. It has never had any major issues, a leaky radiator reservoir and a failed ignition switch, thats about it... until the other day.
I went out to my car in the morning, after not driving it for about a week, I turned the key, the car turned over and fired up then immediately died. I retried starting it to only find the car turning over but not igniting.
Through some research I have found that an easy first check is the fuel delivery system via the fuel pump relay in slot 13 of the relay board.
Well, I disconnected the neg terminal of the battery, pulled the suspected faulty relay and replaced it with a new version, reattached the neg terminal. Then I attempted to start it, but to no avail. Same issue, turns over and over but no ignition.
Ive heard that it should possibly be a faulty cam position sensor, but I don't know a thing about replacing that and I can't find any information on the process. Secondly, I am not even sure thats the issue. Other possible thoughts are; alternator, or the fuel pump itself.
Any guidance you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated.
p.s. I have recently moved the car from San Diego to South Carolina, so a major leap in humidity. Also I recently removed and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner because my idle seemed a little rough.
I can't help, but I had to replace the cam position sensor in my 99 last year.
It would be running great, then just die.
Sorry you are having problems.....
Welcome!
Have you checked fuses C1 to C4? Jump pins 87 and 30 (always hot so be careful) of the fuel pump relay to see if pump is running. Next is to find out if you have sparks.
Also check if your tacho needle raises just a little bit when cranking.
Ahsai-
C1-C4 are good.
I jumped pin 87 to pin 30 of the fuel pump relay slot and the fuel pump fired up and ran as normal.
I have to admit I am not sure how to check if I have a spark.
But when I attempted to start it the tacho did indeed raise a bit as it lurched a bit trying to start.
To check for sparks, the proper way is to remove one of the spark plugs and use a spark tester like this on the coil
http://toolmonger.com/2009/09/18/mod...k-plug-tester/
or in a pinch w/o the tester you can just remove the spark plug and put it back to the coil and provide a ground to the spark plug thread.
Do you have a scanner to scan for codes?
As others have indicated - determine if fuel or spark. Simplest way I use is:
0) If you can use an OBDII Scan tool to check for codes and eliminate the obvious, like critical sensor faults. If no scan tool but there is a process to blink CEL-indicator and pull codes then try that too.
1) Grab a can of ether/starting fluid and after pulling out the air-filter - shoot it down the intake tract. Give it a good fog to see if you can get an engine-catch (and probably immediate die). If yes - then you move onto the next thing which is
2) Grab a second person to either start the car while you spray the intake, or vice-versa. What that will tell you is if the spark keeps going for a few seconds. Generally if yes - then you are a fuel-side problem. If point to fuel side then next step is confirm fuel-flow via manual pump activation (your relay trick), fuel-pressure, and injector firing. To make it easy find the fuel-fitting nearest the injector-rail and pull it there when doing the flow/volume check. Of course at this point probably best just to take it somewhere...
3) If 1, or 2 are bust - then start checking for spark - which would be a take it somewhere type of thing in case you don't just live for diagnostics.
To answer a question you asked: a failed alternator would not cause your no-continued-run situation where you still have enough power to turn the car over. A frozen alt shaft would be very obvious noise/strain on the engine during cranking/startup.
Generally tech-bounce on startup says that the flywheel sensor is seeing an good signal, or said more correctly the ECU is seeing viable inputs to trigger the tach-output toward the display. Borrow someone's OBDII scanner to confirm.
Agree, and buy the right stuff, Durametric, expensive? No it's not, worth every penny when you first hit som problems.
Have had my car for one year and the durametric for six months, easy the first thing I'd recommend to a new Porsche owner.
You say.."Also I recently removed and cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner because my idle seemed a little rough." I presume that was BEFORE the car failed to start. You might want to read these pages.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...r-flow-sensor/
..Other than that. I would advice you to check out this link about replacing a faulty fuel pump.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Fuel_Pump.htm
Good luck in solving your problem.
Yes the MAF was cleaned about two weeks before this issue.
I just received my ordered spark plugs, figured that if I am going to be in there, might as well put some fresh ones in while I am at it.
Ill let you guys know what comes of it, thanks again for all the help and advice. Hopefully this issue is resolved today.
To avoid complicating this further, I would advise you to *not* change the plugs right now.
The plugs were good enough before the engine died and do not play a role in its not running now.
You should change these only after you have found and corrected the problem that is at the root of this no start behavior.
As for the cause of the no start, my first guess would be a fuel pump. But if you are sure the fuel pump is working ok, then consider a malfunctioning crankshaft position sensor.
If the crankshaft position sensor isn't working the engine will crank but not fire as the DME won't know where the pistons are and thus will not know when to trigger fuel injection and spark.
The CEL will likely be dark so there will be no active error codes, although there might be a pending error code, or with the proper diagnostics computer (Durametric perhaps) there might be some Porsche proprietary error codes.
To check for sparks, you only need to remove one of the spark plugs. Most likely the rest will behave the same way. Also agreed with what Macster suggested above.
I believe there is a safety setting the car can go into to prevent you from starting it when it sees something wrong that could be damaging to the engine. You need to have the car scanned
I agree with Macster, don't start throwing too many parts at it at once- it muddies the troubleshooting process AND throwing parts at it gets expensive. It's one of three basic things:
Signal
Fuel
Spark
Eliminate these one at a time to narrow the process
I had a spark, and I changed the plugs after finding a spark.
It roared to life right away but is clearly misfiring. No CEL, but I suspect if I drove it I would get one.
This is now beyond my abilities, at least without a scanner, I'll be taking it in on Monday. Thanks again for your help.
Check all of the coil connectors. I bet you find one loose one. It happens often after a plug/coil change. Push/peel the rubber cover up to see that the coil connector bale is snapped over the tooth on the coil.
you we're correct.
This morning I went back through and found 1, 4, and 5 connected but loose. I reattached them and its purring like a kitten.
Thanks for your help. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Turned me into a reenlist believer.
attached is a couple of photos of the replaced plugs, Id say they were well overdue.
I will also be investing in a diagnostics program.
Sometimes the simplest explanations are the best.
To have the coil connections come loose enough to cause misfires after that much time since the plugs were changed is rather surprising to me but I'm glad it was just loose coils and not something else.
Well, maybe I shouldn't be surprised. I can recall my 96 Mustang developing a misfire like hesitation -- but with no CEL -- at part throttle and long story short the cause proved to be a loose connection of the spark plug lead at just one plug. This was several thousand miles after I had the plugs changed. The loose lead tip eroded enough that it would not snap tight back on the plug so I had to use pliers to squeeze the connector a bit so it would give a bit of snap to let me know it was secure. I bought a set of replacement spark plugs leads at the first Ford dealership I came to but never had to install them.
wow OKAY here is my issue. Crank no start 1999 996 convertible bought as a non runner below is what I have done.
Checked all fuses and replaced them with new.
replaces relays
New Crank Sensor
New Battery
New ignition switch
jumped relay for pump and it works
no Tach Pulse when Crank
sent all ECU and Key and Immobilizer out all Clean bill of health WORK
I jumped Clutch switch and I bought a new one just to have.
checked grounds ll tight and I put dielectrics grease
All new Plugs and Coil Packs
not changed cam sensor I was thinking on Tank Pressure sensor also?
any ideas??
You're mudding the waters by opening up the parts cannon on this poor car. Purchase a scanner like a Durametric and see what codes are being thrown. That's money well spent.
Do you know if this car has been sitting up for long periods of time? Lastly, do you know if it's getting proper fuel pressure? Fuel filter replaced too?
IDea's ? YES !!!
1.Compression
2. Fuel
3. Spark
That's all that an engine needs to run ( at the apropriate times of course)
Always start with the simplest first and verify each of the three is present...
After confirmation they are present,then verify they are timed properly...
That's all it takes for an engine to run...
was getting correct pressure when I jumped the relay. Yes the car sat for 2 years.
I will get the scan tool but in the meantime I just brought it to a friends shop.
the issue was found....
Under the carpet. Mouse chewed wires. he is working on fixing it now.
So happy to get it sorted out
Top Gear In Gloucester MA. He is a great person and fantastic honest mechanic.
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M96 Addendum
4. Pure Filtered Air
5. Keyfob that actually works
6. Dry functional Immobilizer
7. Electrical wires without soy based jackets
8. Starter
9. fuel tank with fuel in it
10. Driver with at least one hand
11. Left foot
