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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSill seam rusting 996.2
Leading reported evidence
Clean arches, i was surprised
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The arches are totally fine, other than usual stone chipping, I’ve had all of the arch liners off and cleaned the arches, I was surprised when I looked inside.
Leading evidence: 'Clean arches, i was surprised' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'wider corrosion in the picture above' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check everywhere else' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause · Original poster
The jacking points seem to have been the most exposed externally but are solid, I think the sill above is more likely the wider corrosion in the picture above.
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Suggestion
The only thing I’d add is to get underneath the car and check everywhere else for similar issues.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I’ve emailed bilt chamber - but looking at their directions most of their products require cleaning treatment
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Suggestion
As mentioned above fill the cavity with Dynax (I would go S50) and clean up, rust treat, prime and paint / coat what is visible on the outside.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The arches are totally fine, other than usual stone chipping, I’ve had all of the arch liners off and cleaned the arches, I was surprised when I looked inside.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I was thinking of taking off the outer sill, repairing the inside and then replacing with a new outer sill, I was thinking anything else would just be stalling the inevitable
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Suggestion
Could just be the picture, but my car has previously had to have all four jacking points replaced and is currently in the process of having both sills fully replaced as part of replacing pretty much every other panel....
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wider corrosion in the picture above
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause · Original poster
The jacking points seem to have been the most exposed externally but are solid, I think the sill above is more likely the wider corrosion in the picture above.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T022239Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
The sill seam the length of both sides has signs of corrosion.
I used an endoscope camera today and there’s also evidence inside the sill too, but primarily on the inside of the seam.
But each end of the sill where the access points are there’s no corrosion.
How bad is this and what’s the best next step - the sills sounds solid when knocked.
Thanks
Sorry, but it looks pretty bad. Chances are that's already through in places and since it's between the seam it's impossible to just dress and seal, and hope it doesn't propagate.
There must be something from Bilt Hammer that you could spray inside the sill right on top of that corrosion to prevent it getting worse and then scrape off the old underseal covering the seam , treat the rust , paint it and put some more underseal on.
I would spray inside first hopefully with a fairly runny product that will soak back down between the 2 panels and treat the area you can't get at, let gravity help.
Maybe keep doing periodically over the summer and see if any drips out along the seam.
I was thinking of taking off the outer sill, repairing the inside and then replacing with a new outer sill, I was thinking anything else would just be stalling the inevitable
I’d agree with that, particularly in the current temperatures. It should spread nicely once warmed up.
I think this will at the very least stall the growth, anything more would simply be creating work.
The only thing I’d add is to get underneath the car and check everywhere else for similar issues.
Sills take a hammering though from all angles so I’d expect to find very little.
Good luck
In the 3rd picture it looks like the side of the jacking point has split/folded? Could just be the picture, but my car has previously had to have all four jacking points replaced and is currently in the process of having both sills fully replaced as part of replacing pretty much every other panel.... When they fully uncovered the front nearside jacking point [again] there was more redress needed around it, which wasn't a surprise. Our cars are well treated from the factory, but there is a lot of overlapping metal, slightly funny joints, etc around the ends of the sills - these cars are 20-30 years old now and aren't immortal - at some point someone needs to decide how hard they want to save them... If you really want to know, someone needs to physically start cutting...
i think it will be a developing story - def got all the hallmarks of mission creep but reckon pumping cills with bilt hamber wax will def prolong its life
Two options as I see it.
1. The easy / cheap route to delay the inevitable. As mentioned above fill the cavity with Dynax (I would go S50) and clean up, rust treat, prime and paint / coat what is visible on the outside.
2. Do a proper / expensive job and take the outer sill off. But if those areas are affected there will be problems elsewhere. Are the arches OK?
Anything in between these two feels like a waste of time and money to me.
Might be worth having a look at this thread to do some comparisons..
T
Thread 'rusty sills'
6 Nov 2017
Hi guys, first post here been lurking for a while.
bought myself a '98 c2 coupe in August as a bit of a project and something fun, shortly after purchase I took to my local trusted garage to have it looked over and get a heads up on any mot issues that would need looking at before it's test at the end of November so I could sort them in advance.
One of the few issues my tester flagged was corrosion around the n/s rear sill that need investigating.
this weekend I decided to have a proper look at it so I got the car up on ramps and removed the rear sill trims and the rear undertray and...
Thomp1983
Replies: 55
Forum:
Porsche 911 996 (1997-2005)
A tip I was given by a body shop owner once was to get something inert like grease over the inside corrosion to halt water and air ingress. I have proof it works as the very small corrosion blisters the had formed on the outside of the panel under the air intake on driver' side of my 986 are still exactly as they were over 6 years ago when I smeared the inside of the wing with heavy CV grease. That said that damage to the seam near the jacking point does look quite serious. Where the underseal has split on mine, I have liberally applied aerosol wax to penetrate and protect for as long as viable. It is working well so far.
To me the OP's actual jacking points still look solid but it could be the floor pan area around them that could be an issue.. the sills it's hard to tell but I don't think they're too bad and certainly don't warrant tearing panels off just yet.
That can get very expensive if done right.
The jacking points seem to have been the most exposed externally but are solid, I think the sill above is more likely the wider corrosion in the picture above. I’m interested in the cost that might be “very expensive” I might be more tempted to have a big hit now for a car that might be a treat for the rest of my driving life. I’ve emailed bilt chamber - but looking at their directions most of their products require cleaning treatment
The arches are totally fine, other than usual stone chipping, I’ve had all of the arch liners off and cleaned the arches, I was surprised when I looked inside. I’m not sure where the water ingress is coming from, its a targa so it could be a previous roof drainage issue, I’ve only had the car since November so I’m working through the presenting problems
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