Key stuck in ignition and battery seems dead

2011 987 bought used in 2021. Low miles of 44k, now about 75k. Replaced the battery (with an Interstate) fairly early in ownership, so surprised the battery might be dead? When I replaced the battery , it did give me an indication it was on its last legs because the gauge cluster would light up, but the engine would not turn over. I was able to get the frunk open so the battery could be replaced. I do not lock the car when it is left in the garage. This morning (last drove a few days ago with no "warnings"), put the key in...nothing. No power at all, and the key is stuck. Any suggestions in the steps I should take to try to self-diagnose? Will try my second key later to see if I can get the car to react Thanks in advance!

Pretty sure there's no diagnosis needed. Replace the battery . It's dead. To get your key out, see your owner's manual. There's a metal tool/wire in the cover of your fuse box just under the driver side dash. Remove the wire, open the small cover on the surround of the starter switch, and poke the wire in the hole to release the key. If your frunk lid is closed all the way, also see your owner's manual for the opening process or do a search on the internet. Good luck.

Your batter is flat (no charge) it might be DEAD as needing replacement. Are you sure nothing was left on in the car? I always lock with the key out to make sure it goes to sleep.

When you give it power you will be able to get the key out.

Thanks for the reply. I guess a call to the Auto Club for a new battery is in order. This battery lasted less than three years without a warning (slow crank). Thanks again!

I have a charging cable for my iPhone that I leave plugged in (passenger footwell), but not sure if that would be enough to kill a new battery that is a little less than 3 years old. Appreciate the reply, and yes, the key will hopefully get released once I get power again.

A lot of short trips can kill a battery prematurely. If you tend to do this, it is a good idea to use a battery tender frequently. For a couple years I was just using my Cayman exclusively like that (2 miles each way) without a maintainer and my new battery lasted less than 3 years. Good news was I got a free replacement at Advanced Auto.

Cell charges are vampires for power. I wires a time and relay to kill the outlet 5 min after I shut down.

Thanks for the reply. UPDATE - Auto Club came out and checked the charge on the battery . 4.5V, so he jumped started, I gave him $20, and sent him on his way, whew... And I still have 8 months left on my battery warranty. I think Leah is protesting me cancelling our Roadtrip to Carmel/Monterey and Napa last month, as she likes to stretch her legs. Thanks again

Thanks, I think as a precaution, I am just going to unplug until I need to use it!

If you batter was at 4.5 V I would make sure it charges and holds over 12.4 V for at least 24 hours.

Doesn't popping the frunk turn on the light and drain the battery ?

I've read time after time that the frunk light will go out on it's own after a short while.

Well, not tonight or tomorrow because I need the car on Friday. Maybe this weekend. I have a spare WiFi camera I camera I can put in the garage.

I am going to run out and buy a battery tender this morning. Hope she starts!

I can confirm / attest to the frunk light turning off after a few mins as I leave it popped when I use my battery tender . If I were you, just go to Costco (assuming you got your Interstate there) and get a new one so you can sleep better at night. Also, as a "precaution / backup" I would take the wheel lock out of your frunk and put it in the glove box...I learned it the hard way

This is my 5th Pcar, and the first time I am having to deal with battery and locked frunk issues, LOL. I may also be the only person in the US who does not have a Costco card or an Amazon membership. We'll see how dealing with the battery tender is.

Batteries aren't what they used to be - and newer cars have more things using electricity while "asleep" - how do you think the remote key lock/unlock works? That's a continuously powered device, never turns off. Lots more of them scattered around the car (the immobilizer for instance.) Direct recent experience - had an Interstate (used to be a good name - been sold and made by a different company - there apparently are only 2 battery manufacturers in the us - due to pollution issues) and almost exactly 3 years from when I installed it it failed. Same thing with an Interstate in my Cayenne . Since you have a warranty - use it. These cars do very strange things when the battery voltage drops down to around 12V... BTW - the difference between the high-priced battery and the lower-priced one with the same specs - is the length of the warranty.

How true, the statement “batteries aren’t what they used to be”. The standard recommendation of replacing a battery at 3-5 years certainly rings true but when I needed to replace the battery in my former ‘04 Volvo XC70, upon uncovering it from its nesting place in the cargo area, beneath the cargo floor boards, battery cover and hold downs, I was shocked to find out that it was the original battery , Volvo logo and date stamp included, making it 14 years old. I was tempted to contact the Guinness records people to see if it qualified for any category of longevity.

Three things kill a battery . Heat us the main thing that shortens battery life. Running it truly dead (less than 1.5v per cell) can damage one or more cells. Leaving sit uncharged will kill all the cells. Of you kept that battery between freezing and about 90 deg F, keep it charged above 50%, and never overcharge, a lead acid cell can last for decades.

you said you put the key in and nothing happened. If you leave the key in the ignition switch overnight the battery may go dead. Alot of components are live with the key in.

Your not alone !! Began having problems with the car when my new battery lost charge. Tried to start car and it would not turn over. Key locked in the ignition. Followed instructions on how to release key. Went well except I lost the small plastic cover (as shown on page 22 of the operators manual) that's needed to reinstall to get the key to function. Ordered a replacement piece and broke one of the small plastic legs that fit in the two slots to allow the key to work. Super glued the tiny plastic leg back on and installed the small plastic cover in the ignition. The new battery turned out to be faulty. Replaced for free. Car sat for four hours (no power) while I picked up and installed the battery . Put key in the ignition ...turned it ...all instrument lights came on but when the key was turned to energize the starter nothing happened. Would not crank at all...NOTHING. Radio ,windows, instrument lights, blinkers and front lights all worked. Took my Durametric and scanned for fault codes. The results (44 fault codes) are on the attached file. Pulled out my multi meter and checked all the fuses .... all appeared to be good. Not sure where to go next . Anyone have any thoughts??

Might it be less costly and much less frustrating to find a good independent mechanic and leave the work to him?

I realize this thread is almost a year old. Not sure if your problem has been resolved. In my longish ordeal, I had some similar details to yours. The negative battery clamp was not tight enough to make good contact. If you have some contact, items that use little amperage will function. Items that use lots of amperage ( the starter cranking the engine) will not. The battery clamps are not the only place that potentially are not making contact. The positive circuit to the starter and the ground to the body. I assume by now your difficulty has been resolved. If so, I’m sure others would appreciate knowing how you eventually resolved your dilemma.