Never Worked on a Car

I�m starting to do some research on my first 996 purchase and I�m wondering what it takes to work on these cars. For background, I am extremely mechanically inclined. I repair everything in my house when I have time: furniture refinishing, soldering copper plumbing, drywall, concrete pours, stove disassembly/degreasing/troubleshooting, gate fence design and building, sliding door repair, etc. I am also very perfectionistic and organized. For instance when disassembling things I put screws and parts in labeled zip lock bags. I also create Google planning docs for each major project I do outlining raw materials and costs. I already remove wheels on my w211 E350 wagon to clean, polish, and ceramic coat the wheel barrels. I just need to invest in some good tools and a jack. What are your guys thoughts?

It sounds like you'll be fine. Problem solving is more important than having knowledge on the specific car you're working on. The knowledge can come from DIY's on here or YouTube videos. I don't do a lot of mechanical work on my cars, but when I do, I typically invest in the tools needed at the time. Lots of guys on here will recommend QuickJacks or Jackpoint Jackstands if you want a starting place.

I would be extremely cautious about first-time diving into DIYs using a 911. It's not about your planning, logistics or organizational skills; you simply haven't practiced the mechanic skillset in context and don't know what to look for that may save a small mistake from ballooning into an expensive one. Sure, the 996 is well-documented compared to other cars (due to them having a propensity to blow the M96 up) so procedures can be started by the book, but the book gets thrown out the window when you are elbow-deep working in the engine bay blind because you've snapped an old stud that "should've just come off". There's a reason why house fixes cost several hundred a job, and car fixes cost several hundred an hour. With that said, I also have a friend who's first car DIY was replacing the sequential transmission in an Evo X. Took him months and $$$, but you can argue persistence wins in the end.

Go for it, and don't be frightened to ask for advice (both before OR after doing something) either off contributors on here or at your local repair shop.

I tend to agree with Bxstr in this, but Circuit.Heart also makes valid points. This is a different level of work. I've had PVC pipes I glued together burst. Gushing water in your house is not good, but nothing like failed brakes after a DIY job that went wrong. Simply put, the risk factor is much higher. Most people get started in mechanics with simpler things like lawnmowers, go-karts, and motorcycles. If you can have a buddy that has mechanical experience help you out while doing the work it will limit potential issues. In time you will gain confidence and wisdom, but be prepared to have your car sitting on jack stands for extended periods while waiting for parts, tools, or a solution to a problem. Lastly, you need a good slush fund for maintenance and unforeseen repairs as well as specialized tools. Buy tools only as you need them and buy good quality tools, not what you find at Autozone, Walmart, or the hardware store. This goes for the tools to lift a car. Your life depends on those tools. I've known neighbors that have died under their vehicles.

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Maybe I should have went with a more cautious approach in that it depends what you're doing. I think he'd be fine doing an oil change, brakes, etc. All of that you can find information for online and is bolt off, bolt on sort of work. Anything involving engine work or things deep in the engine bay I'd probably take to a professional.

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You don't need snap on or mac tools. Harbor freight hand tools work great and if you break them, you just swap them out. Save the gucci tool money for parts.

A good strategy to buy tools is to find a friend who wants to go in 1/2s on the tools. Then you can share skills and tools.

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I learned everything by doing it, screwing it up and doing it again. When something is going wrong and you made a mistake just take a step back and THINK, common sense and logic will get you out of a lot of situations, and when that fails the internet will get out. When I was a kid forums were good but today they are great, you can find almost any information you need in 30 min of googling. Whatever problem you are having I guarantee someone else has already had it, messed it up, fixed it and documented it somewhere on the internet. I say go for it but always just take your time, and have a reliable daily and some extra $$$$$. This ^... I have been working on cars for 20 years and I don't own any Gucci tools, I started with average/inexpensive tools and if something breaks and it is something I use a lot I upgrade it. Just get some quality jack stands, don't mess around with thoes.

OP - You’ll relish the challenge and will be a successful 996 owner! My 996 ownership is an affair of the heart and comes with all the triumphs and pitfalls of any intense romance. I barely touched my previous cars until I bought my two Pcars. Did I eff some things up in the first months of ownership? Hell yes. Once you arm yourself with the knowledge and acquaint yourself with the best maintenance and repair resources, ie, Bentley, Dempsey, etc; you’ll enjoy the time spent making a good thing great. Going through the Bentley or watching repair videos for the first time are as much fun as when you read through the Home Depot orange bible and told yourself, “I can do that.” Tools are something you’ll pick up as you need when you task list your projects. zbomb’s right. Some things require the best quality, most don’t - works for OE vs OEM parts and tools, alike. Find the right car for you and get back to us. Good hunting!

Thanks for the amazing replies!!

As long as you post your plan here and let the folks weigh in, you should be fine. It�s only the �gotcha�s� that you don�t know about - and quite frankly, even those wrenching on cars can succum to the gotcha�s - that cause the most pain. Otherwise, these cars are pretty easy to work on. The only bit I would be cautious about is engine or transmission work. I�m talking about the internals.

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Sure, and when cheap tools screw up that stuck fastener as well as the tool, then you will lean the value of buying quality once. I have Snap-On and Craftsman tools that are 30 to 40 years old. They will go to my son when I am done with them and I suspect that he will lose them before they break. I also had a Chinesium jack come down on me. No real damage, but it was a good lesson to teach me that I should value my health and my car more than false economy.

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You need to purchase these two things to start off. A must for any Porsche DiYr. I also recommend the book by Adrian Streather's " Porsche 996 - The Essential Companio n"

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My car was built with principally harbor freight hand tools and I think I�m pretty close to touching every fastener at least once. Maybe don�t blame the tools when you jack up a fastener and just don�t jack the fastener up in the first place. You do know the saying about a craftsmen (or mechanic) that blames his tools, yes ? The OP is new, let�s keep the barrier for entry low and he can upgrade if he sees fit as he gains experience. Or, just keep using stuff that works, worked ok for me. Snap on tools are a waste of money for a hobbyist, most especially so for a new hobbyist. Quality Jack stands are important though, we can agree on that.

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The problem is starting out with nothing the bar to entry is super high if you buy a full set of snap on tools, buy a full set of cheap tools to get started and only upgrade the stuff used most. A cheap tool set will get you really far, probably 95% of the way as a set of snap on tools for 1/5(?) the price for a back yard mechanic. I have been upgrading my tools for 20 years and I STILL have a ton of inexpensive tools that still work and I still use from when I was 16. I also don't own a single snap on tool, the 25 cars I have owned couldn't tell and they all got fixed with budget tools. Edit- also if OP hates working on cars now he is stuck with $5k in snap on tools, buy the cheap stuff OP

ZZ, where can I get the Fastening Spec book?

As with most things, I suppose it depends. My 996 is a 7th car in the stable that can stand to sit and wait for parts, or wait for cooler heads to make a decision, or wait for an expert to weigh in. If you have the time, money, and patience, there is no reason to not get a 996 to tinker with.

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You can also get great tools used at estate sales and local private sales.

There are many DIYs/fixes that are very easy to do on these cars with basic tools. Most, if not all, have very easy to follow instructions available online. There are other things that you would think are easy but are actually difficult. The best way is to read DIYs and watch YouTube videos before you decide if you're willing and able to take on a particular task.

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That seems like an excellent idea to upgrade tools for sure, when these sales pop up, but it might be hard to find a nice full set in a timely manner. +1 for thinking outside the box though!!!!!

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Barrier for entry low? I would think the tools are the least of those worries. $1,000 for basic tools (beyond what is already in the original poster's toolbox) is probably overkill. You can spend that kind of money on tires, let alone the cost of the car in the first place.

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https://lnengineering.com/education/...utomobile.html

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The snap on Torx set costs�.$446. Your $1K ain�t going far. The snap on man gonna laugh at you when you tell him you have $1K to spend.

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Try Craftsman, try used. There are better choices than Harbor freight and Northern Tool. My whole point is to buy what you need when you need it. As a general rule of thumb it is better to pay once than multiple times for something that turns out to be a false economy. All my tools are lifetime tools. I have stuff that is 40+ years old when I first started wrenching on cars. My Hitachi compound chop saw is almost 35 years old and is still as accurate and good as my new DeWalt (I have to admit I thought I wanted something shiny and new). Oh, and I do have some throw-away tools that I know I am only going to use once or twice or that I need to modify.

When it comes to stuff like ratchets, sockets (both standard 6pt down to weird e-torx junk), feel free to just buy at Harbor Freight -- the quality is pretty decent these days. I quite like the SATA brand of ratchets (you can find these on Amazon) if you are looking for a well recommended cheap ratchet. I still use the sockets and some tools from an old $15 Husky toolset I got for a Christmas present back in college from my parents (the ratchet perished after about a decade of hammering on it). Never feel bad about spending extra on something when your life depends on it (jackstands, jacks, etc). Same goes for torque wrenches. My last recommendation is that you will probably eventually want to get an electric impact gun of some sort. Make sure you buy a separate set of impact sockets when you get to this point. Yes, the 996 might be a slightly higher stakes place to start, but for the most part, cars are just Legos. The only bad parts are when you have to shuffle around something that weighs half as much as you do, or when something has seized and it turns into a slugfest. Good luck!

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Hahhaha get a big friend! I have been there with the heavy stuff for sure, I only weight 155lbs, lucky for me my best friend Tom is probably TWICE as strong as I am, that's the only reason I still keep him around (joking).

Don't forget torque wrenches. You will need several. Buy quality torque wrenches!

Ear plugs. Not to protect from the car's sound level, but the sound of a nagging wife. Ear piercing I tell ya!

Here, this will get you started...... https://www.lowes.com/collections/CR...ol-Set/GR_3972

Vaseline - when you buy ANYTHING (parts or service) from a Porsche dealership.

Be aware that every electrical connector is a different puzzle....

The thing about tools is that you always need more! I�ve been buying tools at least since I was 12 years old - that�s roughly 50 years. I�ve still got many of the things I bought way back when (Craftsman, SK, Crescent, Snap-On, etc.) I�ve also still got things I inherited from my grandfather (antique adjustable wrenches, pliers, micrometers, etc. - he was a machinist/tool maker). Harbor Freight is my main tool go to now (as well as Home Depot & Lowe�s) because they have pretty much everything in one place (depending on the store - some are better than others) and they also carry several levels of quality, so if you think you�re going to use something more often you can spend a few more bucks. At this point in my life I think most of the tools I�ve bought in the last 5-10 years will probably out last my working years� The big takeaway is that decent quality tools are really a bargain these days - a big boon for the shade tree mechanic/enthusiast!

I�m an outlier here and was a repeat offender of breaking 10mm and 12mm sockets in my Auto Tech days� if I didn�t lose them. Most of my tools are Blue Point and Snap On, preferably like to buy American made or anything non Chinese. Craftsman has a new line that�s US made and some Klein hand tools as well. Recently bought some Whia and Sonic. I feel you should get what�s convenient and the best you can afford. When working on my VW, I realized I needed 22mm + combo wrenches which led me to Ace Hardware who sells Craftsman� when in the hell am I ever need to use them again? Who knows. It was convenient and budgeted appropriately.

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Now u need to by a jeep wrangler....half the suspension is held on by 22mm bolt heads.

Most of my tools are Craftsman, Channel Lock, Gear Wrench, Milwaukee and a hodgepodge of other stuff both inherited and bought by me. I have nothing against Harbor Freight but where I wouldn't go cheap is flare wrenches and a 3/8 ratchet. A quality ratchet with a million teeth can save a lot swearing.

I bought a small set of SK tools when I was 19, it consisted of a set of 1/2, 3/8 & 1/4 ratchets & sockets, and some screw drivers. I still use this set, its my main set still after 18ish years, plus I have been adding random tools that I needed for my projects when the time came, I have a ton of tools now but no snap on or anything that high dollar. I stick to midgrade stuff, I'm deff not a tool guy I really couldn't care less what they are as long as they work and I am getting the job done. Now my friends that are technicians for a living have really nice snap on and other high quality stuff, if I did this for a living I would also have really nice tools.

teh Home depot brand is fairly priced , I have a set of husky wrenches and tehy have survived well owning a off roaded jeep wrangler and other toys... DO NOT buy the black oxide coated tools... You will lose them in dark spaces.. I have a set of the sockets and they are like dropping a camo mini mag light in the woods when you drop one in a engine bay, I've considered tumbing them in 80 grit and Cerecoating them hot pink..

My first job was with Sears many moons ago and the Craftsman forged pro-line tools where some of the best money could buy for the DiYr. Craftsman pro line was a direct competitor to Snap On, Mac and others that preferred a direct sales method.. that is, "we'll come to you" instead of having to drive to the store. Snap-on and others wanted a more connection with pro shops instead of the average DiYr. But our Craftsman tools were a fraction of the cost and were sold to anyone that needed them... we guaranteed it without any BS too, at least back then. As history has it, the brand was sold to Stanley/Black and Decker as was Mac tools. Not sure if it's the same quality, but I still use them and have some originals that were handed down to me. Almost every time I've bought cheap tools (yes, Harbor Freight), they don't last. I bought a trolly jack from them and it just broke- won't raise up full height. I bought a torque wrench and it broke. Bought a orbiter buffer- it's like trying to tame a wild horse... goes crazy and the speed is wide open and the motor over heats and smokes. Bought a cheap wireless drill and it died. On and on it goes... I stopped buying stuff from them and prefer to pay more for quality equipment like Dewalt, Ryobi, Craftsman Pro, etc.

I still have my high school Craftsman socket and screwdriver set from 1995. I couldn�t afford more, and if it broke, Sears would have replaced it. The sockets never broke. The screwdrivers did. It�s good stuff, but the pros use better stuff because the cost of broken wrench can be higher in downtime and lost revenue than the tool premium.

Great advice on this forum. Can learn how to fix pretty much anything via this forum, youtube, workshop manual, etc. Don't let tools be a hindrance to working on the 996 - it's surprisingly accessible. I'm in line with @zbomb - buy the tools you need. Upgrade as needed.

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Thanks! That book ain't cheap but it's cheaper than overtightening something. Just bought it.

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I did a lot of work on my car both before and after buying the torque spec book. I should have bought it sooner! Most of the specs are buried somewhere in the Bentley book, but I wasted way too much time trying to find them. To the OP: Before my 996, I had only done limited oil, brakes, and maybe a few obvious sensors or something to any car. (And a lot of other mechanical/handyman things, like you). I dove in head-first and now I think I've done most any maintenance except actually dropping/opening the engine. I've replaced all the suspension, had the transmission out, did the IMS, had the entire intake and top of the engine apart, replaced exhaust, replaced swaths of the coolant system, replaced brake lines, and many other things little things. I mostly used "decent" level Amazon tools (Tekton or similar). I have Quick Jacks, and name-brand jack stands. I have Crescent flare nut wrenches (meh), but I also bought exactly one SnapOn flare nut wrench (Jeez that was expensive!). I had one brake line rusted stuck and was at risk or rounding it off. Legitimate reviews showed that the SnapOn would actually apply more torque before slipping than other brands; even though SnapOn isn't always better (see ProjectFarm on YouTube). So in this case, I thought it was worth it. It still slipped and then I had to learn to replace brake hard lines... ​​​ I've had to go to a professional ONCE. I snapped off rusted stuck bolt (steel) in the front knuckle (aluminum), close to the wheel bearing press fit surface. I can't weld, and was not going to be able to drill it out successfully. So, off to a machine shop ($$$) with the knuckle. So I guess recognizing when you're in over your head is important. Otherwise dig in. Enjoy EDIT: Allow TIME! Many of the old-hand mechanics on here will say they can do a job in a few hours, or in a weekend. I know that translates to me taking a few days, or even a few months over the winter. First Spark Plug/coil change took me 12 hours! I'm okay with that, it's not a race. Trying to rush anything would have led to disaster by now, and I always need to stop to order a tool, or order another part, etc at various points in the project. This is not my daily. ​​​​​

I'm thinking someone must make a clamp-on tool for brake line nuts. If you capture the nut on all six sides tightly enough it would be virtually impossible to round off the nut.

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I would love to see better options! I was even able to get vice grips on it pretty tightly. But the internal cohesion of the steel was weaker than the rust adhesion to the threads. Meaning it easily just tore the nut to pieces rather than loosening from the threads.

Generally speaking, the application of penetrating solvents and localized heat over time will get the nuts to budge. Shock is also a big help although often difficult to apply in tight spaces. Rocking them both ways can also help to get the solvents to penetrate� * A clamp on type tool does sound like a great idea - surprised that nobody�s designed one yet�

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Brake line nuts are aluminum IIRC, very soft. I've forced a 3/8" flare wrench onto a 10mm brake line nut before to test the theory like you said, then vise-gripped the wrench so it couldn't open. Nope, all six corners rounded themselves off and squeezed vertically through the flare wrench. Ended up just cutting it and replacing the whole hard + soft line.

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Not sure what cars u work on but in 30yrs of wrenching i have never seen an aluminum nut/fitting on a brake flare application. It takes time, patience, heat, oil and the correct tools.....at times even then its still not enough.

I saw a youtube vid of a guy using a "freeze spray" to get the bleeders out of a 996 caliper, never tried it, it worked for him but he also tried heat and oil before the freeze spray so who knows if the freeze spray really had an effect, doubtful but an interesting data point. I use PB Blaster, heat, vice grips, & lots of patience, if it seems like its gonna break walk away and try again tomorrow. It has always worked for me up to this point, I'm sure I'll get unlucky one day, even sooner now that I have said that.

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Brass. maybe? I would think that aluminum would gaul with the threads of the caliper.

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The brake line fittings on our cars are coated steel. But they we're surprisingly soft. No amount of heat or penetrating oil did anything. I cycled those two things for a week trying to get some success. No luck.

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I'm not sure what it is If it ain't aluminum - I've been working on BMW, Merc, Honda, Toyota, and Mazda production and race cars and now my own 996. The nuts don't seem magnetic, don't seem like brass (they'd gall into a brass distribution block, right?) and they're soft as hell. I'll take back the aluminum comment, but we all agree, they need way too much TLC to work loose. On my BMW all of the OEM garbage has been replaced with aftermarket lines and hard steel nuts. No sealing or bleeding issues and can be unscrewed with a normal 10mm spanner.

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As a long time BMW guy, I find this a tad harsh.

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Yeah, me too! The B58 in my X3 is pretty good.

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My entire family is BMW people, I think we've had almost 20 and I've had to fix all of them for some unscheduled mild-to-catastrophic failure. Good for a whooooole other thread lol.