Engine removal & A/C pump

Hi all, Sooner than later I will need to do an engine-out service of my 5-chain 3.4 engine to replace the variocam pads, and take care of several "while your're in there" stuff. Durametric tool arrives today, I'll share what my cam deviations are as soon as I get a good reading. I'm debating weather or not if I should remove the AC pump and lay it on the rear bumper as described in the Pelican parts procedure, or if I should just have the local shop suck out the freon and drop the engine with AC pump in place. Half of me wants to just leave the AC system alone since it works fine. I'm afraid if I disturb it, I'll be chasing leaks for the rest of my life. Also, with the engine out, I may choose to just replace all three chain tensioners, so AC pump would have to come out anyway. Just want to hear what others have done and if they would do it one way or the other.

Every time i pull engine trans combo, I leave the A/C compressor lines attached and set aside. never lost a charge.

Quotes source post: 19238165

One problem I had the first time I dropped my 3.4 is it had a inline fuel cooler that has coolant lines from the compressor and fuel lines that were very difficult to get to. It seems that there weren�t many cars with these.

Have the shop vacuum it out, and then remove the lines.

There should be minimal difficulty in removing the AC compressor with lines attached. I just did this job, with the fuel cooler, and removing the AC compressor was much easier than it was made to sound. The Man in a Garage youtube video shows how to remove and reinstall. You have to remove the TB and plenum sleeves if you need to get to the fuel cooler, not difficult. (Very very good engine out series, but his cam timing video omits some critical steps and should be avoided.)

I never drain the A/C or even disconnect the battery when dropping/replacing the engine...( it's all about efficiency/time management when you do it for a living) The first thing I do is disconnect the power lead at the engine compartment jumper box, and place a thick rubber cap on the end and secure it electrical tape. This saves an enormous amount time resetting radio, clock, power windows, seat memory, sun-roof memory, outside rear view mirror memory, DME re-learning ect.. And of course not having to evacuate and recharge the A/C plus the risk of letting in moisture if the system was drain and open for any amount of time.. Just wrap the A/C compressor in a blanket and stuff it out of the way in the passenger side of the engine comp..

Quotes source post: 19238872

Yeah it was a surprise because back when I did it there was less documentation of cars with the cooler. Now it's back there not connected to any cooling as I've taken the AC out.

Quotes source post: 19239081

...here's a dumb question... how do I know I have a fuel line cooler on the back of that compressor? I see my fuel filter attached to the side of the coolant expansion tank. But that's all the attention I've paid to the fuel line so far.

Quotes source post: 19239102

I have pulled several motors. The only ones I have pulled with the fuel lines going through the cooler were on 2000s. Removing the throttle body and Power Steering reservoir make it easier to get to the fuel lines.