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YOUR RESEARCH996.2 Suspension Upgrade - Track / Street
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Adjust sway bars
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Leading evidence: 'Adjust sway bars' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust sway bars' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check various distributors and the ohlins are 200eur cheaper here
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I just checked various distributors and the Ohlins are 200EUR Cheaper here.
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Coilovers are a relatively expensive item, so it's difficult to find comparisons where someone has tested the Ohlins RT vs Bilsteins PSS10s on a 996 or any car for the matter.
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Suggestion
The right judgement to make is the one with regards to service availability so you don't feel a requirement to run coilovers for 17 years without servicing.
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The right judgement to make is the one with regards to service availability so you don't feel a requirement to run coilovers for 17 years without servicing.
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Suggestion
I held off buying the Ohlins R&T’s because having run a far more expensive set 3 way adjustable, remote canister Ohlins some ten years ago, I figured the damping the R&T’s would offer, wouldn’t be anything like as good as the previous Ohlins.
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Coilovers are a relatively expensive item, so it's difficult to find comparisons where someone has tested the Ohlins RT vs Bilsteins PSS10s on a 996 or any car for the matter.
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Hi all,
Thank you very much for your support in selecting the right lift on my other thread. Anyways now with the lift, I want to do a suspension upgrade (2-5k). With the following goals;
- Less understeer / more oversteer
- Higher stiffness
- Less body roll
- I have M030, so ideally I would like to keep the current ride height. (I have a front splitter and deep oil pan, both of which I want to keep :-))
If this works well on the .2 I will apply on the .1. My understanding is I will need a set of shocks and springs + anti roll bars. In any case what would you recommend ? Thanks!
These should help.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ghlight=ohlins
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ghlight=ohlins
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ghlight=ohlins
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...highlight=feel
Or... You could skip all the research and just buy a set of Ohlins, Tarrett drop links, make sure you're suspension arm busings are all in good shape and replace what's not... and throw a set of PS4S on and the car will be quite excellent. If you're really feeling spicy, put a rear sway bar on and it will really help mellow out the inherent understeer the car has.
Thanks as always!! Those drop links look great, sadly in Austria they are very much not road legal 😒.
PSS10 Bilsteins are cheaper here than Ohlins, what�s your experience, worth the higher cost ?
thanks !
Coilovers are a relatively expensive item, so it's difficult to find comparisons where someone has tested the Ohlins RT vs Bilsteins PSS10s on a 996 or any car for the matter.
I never tested the Ohlin RT so I can't tell you if it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. I have run Bilstein PSS9s since 2007 on my 996.2. Today it would be the PSS10s. The PSS9s were the rage in the 996 community at the time like the Ohlins are today.
Yep, they have been awesome and still are performing extremely well after 17 years. Not one leak or issue in 17 years. Easy to set up, durable and dependable as he'll. Are they better or worse than Ohlin RTs? I don't know.
I plan on replacing them next year. I don't know if I will go with Bilsteins or Ohlins. I have a warm spot in my heart for the Bilsteins because they have performed so well and have been so damn durable and dependable on the street and track. But I'll talk to all of the vendors first like FVD as an example that sell them both to get their opinion. I'll talk to my indy who sets porsches up for a living, and other knowledgeable folks to make a final decision.
I will say that I didn't have an opinion on the Ohlins because they are relatively new to the US as a 996 option until I saw that Tarret came out with a "club sport" version of the RTs last year. This peaked my curiosity by telling me that Tarret takes them seriously enough to enhance the package and sell it as a solution. They wouldn't do that if the base RTs weren't worth building on.
Tough call.
My 996.2 is set up to GT3 specs. Bilsteins are full stiff in rear, half stiff in front. Tarret swaybars and drop links the whole way around with rear sway bars at full stiff and front at least stiff. It took 2 full days at the track with my indy to settle on the settings. Car rotates like a go kart. Stable as he'll at high speed and never gets unsettled.
Once I found that set-up, I never changed it. 17 years later it still works beautifully. Yep, it's a little stiff on the street but I don't really care. I want the handling not comfort.
I chuckle a little bit every time you throw out the fact you haven't serviced the Bilstein in 17 years... Says more about you than it does the parts.
Just cause they don't leak doesn't mean they don't need to be serviced and I am very sure if you put them on a shock dyno, it would tell you the same thing. If you don't believe me give Angelo at Anze a call, or Barry at 3DM or any other high performance suspension professional you can find. If your indy that supports all these racing exploits hasn't already told you this, it would be curious.
The right judgement to make is the one with regards to service availability so you don't feel a requirement to run coilovers for 17 years without servicing. For the OP, contacting Ohlins AU will give him the info he needs here.
I’ve gone the opposite way to Tarret, and have spent considerable time developing a spring kit with much revised (softer) spring rates (that utilise standard valving) primarily because the roads in the UK are getting increasingly poorly maintained with every passing year.
The end result gives an almost perfect blend of compliance, handling, grip and grin-factor. They’d probably be sub-optimal for track/circuit use, but as that’s not what the car is used for, it’s not an issue for me.
I held off buying the Ohlins R&T’s because having run a far more expensive set 3 way adjustable, remote canister Ohlins some ten years ago, I figured the damping the R&T’s would offer, wouldn’t be anything like as good as the previous Ohlins.
I spoke to several individuals, all of whom advised they (the R&T’s) may lack the fine adjustment my previous dampers had, the damping and valving is very good.
They were right
Ohlins are the way to go for a coilover that does double duty street/track. They come with adjustable camber plates, at least the ones for the C4S/turbo do. Not certain of the C2. If they don�t you want them as well.
Now to get to your specific questions:
- Less understeer / more oversteer:
Get adjusted sway bars. Full stiff in the rear, full soft in the front.
- Higher stiffness
Ohlins are a good base and have 20 levels of stiffness. I typically run at 5 from fully stiff on track and 10 for the street.
- Less body roll
This is where Ohlins + adjustable sways works so well. They have great dampening capabilities to maintain your contact patch during cornering.
Hope this helps.
.
Thank you all for your inputs!!! Very valuable.
I just checked various distributors and the Ohlins are 200EUR Cheaper here. So honestly I will just go with them. Ohlins will send me via mail (I dunno why) the TUV certificate. Basically anything altering the suspension / brakes in Austria must be approved by the local inspection agency (PITA but it removes idiots from the roads). As for the sway bars, the only option here is the H&R ones that have the TUV certificate.
Cheers,
Dick
Why cant u get the tarett adjustable ones as the r reproductions if the stock gt3 bar? I dont know what the inspection process is but other then not having a part number (which wears off) there is no way to tell them apart. I would figure a factory part that was on the same chassis should be an acceptable substitution?
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